How to get rid of the smell of sewage in the bath. The bath smells like sewage: ways to solve the problem. Stones in the furnace

02.11.2019

Water seal is a specially created water stopper that protects the premises from the unpleasant "aroma" of the sewer. Water accumulates in the curved section of the pipe, completely blocking the diameter. Thus, water does not allow bad smell to enter the room.

When to use a water seal in a bath

It is necessary to use such a design for sewerage if water is drained into a common water supply system. In the event that the liquid is drained into a pit outside the bath, there will be no bad smell. If the bath sewerage was connected to a common system, then ready-made siphons (as for a washbasin or bathroom) of any type can be used. Metal or plastic corrugated hose or bottle type valves are commercially available. In rare cases, there are cast-iron hydraulic seals, but they have not been produced for several years. In fact, such a device is two glasses inserted one into the other. After the floors are filled in the bath, the top of the water seal should be in a small recess to completely drain the liquid.

This device has two main advantages:

it should be as a sump;
even if water freezes inside it, it must not be damaged.

We make a water seal ourselves

Pretty easy to do it yourself. To do this, you need to take a piece of pipe of the required diameter and bend it in the form of the letter "U" and weld it to the pipe after the drain funnel (usually its height is 50-70 mm). This is best done when laying the foundation and arranging the floor, however, if the bath is already ready, and bad smell overshadows the stay in it, then you can install it later.

If the sewer pipes are accessible, and the foundation of the building is columnar, then this will greatly facilitate the work. You can weld the necessary piece of pipe to the drain pipe under the bath. In the event that there is no access to the pipes, then it will need to be organized: dismantle part of the floor if it is made of wood, or saw it with a grinder if it is concrete. After that, a pipe with a bend is attached to the sewer by welding or a coupling.

It must also be borne in mind that water can evaporate, and if you do not use the sewer for a long time, after 40-50 days it will completely dry out, and gases will freely enter the room.

What is a dry water seal?

Also, this design can be dry. There is no water in it, and dry materials are used as a damper. This option, as you understand, is not able to freeze, while it can be of several types:

it is a membrane held by a spring if there is no water. When liquid enters, the spring power is not enough to hold it, the damper rises, and the liquid drains. An object of a certain shape (often a large diameter ball) closes the air passage. When liquid enters, the object floats, opening the drain. In more complex models, the molecular memory of the material is used.

You can make a simple dry water seal for a bath with your own hands, there is nothing complicated about it. It is necessary to choose a plastic ball, a little larger than the drain pipe. When there is no water, such a ball will block the access of air from the sewer. As soon as the liquid flows, the drain will be released. This kind of system can work in winter time, even if the ball freezes to the drain, a little boiling water can literally melt the ice in a matter of minutes, and the system will work normally.

Water lock in the bath

A water seal is a specially created water plug that protects the room from the unpleasant "aroma" of the sewer.

Bath water seal

A water trap is a specially designed water plug that prevents sewer "aromas" from entering the room. Water accumulates in the curved section of the pipe, completely blocking the diameter. Thus, water does not allow odors to penetrate into the room.

The principle of organizing a water seal for sewerage

When to use a water seal in a bath

In the bath, it is necessary to use a water seal for the sewer if the water is drained into the general drainage system. If the water drains outside the bath into a pit, from where it is absorbed, there can be no smell in this case.

If the bath sewer is connected to a common system, you can use ready-made siphons (as for a bathroom or washbasin) of any design. There are commercially available plastic or metal bottle-type closures or corrugated hose.

Sewer bottle water trap

Sometimes you can still find a cast-iron water seal, but their production was stopped several years ago, and they are found mainly in old houses.

It looks like a water seal for a plastic sewer

CENTER AQUAPA water traps are available for sale, which are inserted into a plastic pipe with a diameter of 55 mm or 110 mm.

Water trap CENTER AQUAPA inserted into a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm

In fact, a water seal is two glasses inserted one into the other.

Upper and lower parts of the CENTER AQUAPA water trap

After pouring the floors in the bath, the top of the water seal should be in a small recess to completely drain the water.

The upper part of the water seal is at the level of the lowest point

This water seal has two advantages:

It additionally performs the role of a sump;
Even if water freezes in the water seal, it will not be damaged.

How to make a water seal with your own hands

It is quite easy to make a water seal with your own hands. To do this, a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter must be bent in the shape of the letter “U” and welded (connected with couplings) to the pipe after the drain funnel (the height of the water seal is usually 50-70 mm). It is desirable to do this during the laying of the foundation and the arrangement of the floors, but if the bath is already functioning and the smell interferes, you can try to eliminate this trouble.

If the foundation is columnar and sewer pipes are available, this makes things easier. Under the bath, you can weld the desired piece of pipe to the drain pipe. If there is no access to the pipes, you will have to organize it: disassemble part of the floor if it is wooden, or cut it out with a “grinder” if it is concrete. After that, connect the pipe with a bend to the sewer using couplings or welding.

It should be noted that water from any water seal evaporates. And if you do not use the sewer for a long time, after 40-50 days it will dry completely, and the gases from the sewer will freely enter the room.

What is a dry water seal

There is another option for a water seal - dry. It does not contain water, and is used as a damper various materials. As you understand, such a water seal does not freeze. There are several types of dry water seals for sewage:

This is a membrane that is held by a spring if there is no water. When water enters, the spring power is not enough to hold it, the damper rises and the water drains.

It looks like a drain with a dry water seal to the sewer

A shaped object (usually a ball larger than a diameter pipe) blocks the air passage. As soon as water enters, the object floats, opening the drain.
More technologically sophisticated models that use the molecular memory of materials.

For a bath, an elementary dry water seal can be made with your own hands, as it is quite simple. You need to pick up a plastic ball a little bigger size than a drain pipe. Put it on a pipe, and make some kind of chamber within which it will be located. When there is no water, the ball blocks the access of air from the sewer. When water enters, it floats (within the chamber) and releases the drain. Such a system is functional even in winter conditions.: even if the ball freezes to the drain, a little hot water in a matter of minutes, the ice will melt, and the system will function normally.

Water seal for sewerage for a bath - types and features of self-production

Exist different kinds water seals for a bath, so you need not make a mistake in choosing. Sometimes it is better to use a water seal, and sometimes dry.

Water seal for sewerage in the bath

Any rural option, when the water from the bath just goes outside, into the gap between the boards, has its own difficulties. And if there is a main or autonomous sewerage, then another task arises - to get rid of the penetration of gases from the sewer into the bath. There is a simple solution - to put a water seal.

What is a water seal

They are of two types:

U-shaped (knee) water seal

From the picture it is absolutely clear that this is a simple device similar to a hookah, in contrast to it does not allow air to pass through, creating a water plug. And what happens in the hookah is called the failure of the water seal.

Pipe diameter and connection method can only affect the performance of such a device, the main thing that is required of him is tightness, and its lower point must be at least 50 mm lower than the drain pipe.

Any available materials are suitable for a water seal, but we must not forget that in the event that access to it is closed, reliability and the possibility of cleaning are of decisive importance.

The second figure shows how water, having evaporated from the cork (and this will definitely happen in 40-50 days), opens up the possibility for air to enter from the sewer.

So you need to either periodically fill it with water, or use a different type of water seal, or hermetically drown it for a long absence.

Bottle water seal

From this figure it is clear that another design solution did not change the function of this device - to create a water plug. Another name for such a thing is a siphon.

It is also clear that the pipe connection must be airtight. Such a water seal is also a sump.

The lower part of a conventional washing bottle siphon can be unscrewed for cleaning, and if a homemade closure of this type is used, for example, in the floor, then top part should be collapsible.

Dry seals

The most pressing issue for a bath with a drain into the sewer is not so much the choice of the design of the ladder as the laying of the line itself. Any ready-made version of the ladder from the store, including the “dry” one, contains a water seal with a water column of 30 mm or more, so with regular use of the bath, there will be no problems with the drying of the water plug. And those who know that the bath will not be in use for a long time can simply drown out the drain.

For those who want to forget and not remember the dried-up siphon, there are so-called dry ladders.

There are two types of dry water trap.

float type

It is best to consider a specific example, for example, the Austrian HL 310 NPr.

Vertical drain. The upper element is cut to the desired size from 12 to 70 mm and embedded in the screed.

The polyethylene housing is designed for wastewater temperatures up to 85 degrees. Installation procedure for different cases described in the passport.

The float, in case of drying water, simply falls and closes the pipe. The height of the valve water column is 50 mm (complies with Austrian city regulations).

The principle of operation is clearly visible in the picture.

In the working position, the water raises and holds the float at the same level and the system works as one of the options for a water seal. If the bath long time is not used, the water from the shutter evaporates, and the float closes the drain hole before the water has completely evaporated.

Craftsmen came up with an option that can work no worse than a factory one. The main difference from this scheme is that such a float in the form of an inverted glass is fixed so that its bottom is higher than the drain hole by more than the diameter of the drain pipe. And the hole itself closes a light ball with a diameter larger than the drain one - it acts as a float.

pendulum type

In the photo, a specific example is a dry seal for drains 100 mm in the neck - Viega 583255.

Below, at the shutter, two curtains are visible, suspended at an angle to the vertical - this is the pendulum shutter. The curtains are closed due to their own weight, and the water opens them when draining. The height of the water column of the water seal is 32 mm - it is quite enough for a country bath. In Germany itself, which is declared as a manufacturing country, when designing a sewerage system in city houses, it is assumed that plumbing fixtures in apartments have a water seal height of 50-60 mm, but not 32!

If the force of gravity that closes the curtains is replaced by the force of a spring, then get different variants spring type dry seals, with more options.

Of course, all of the listed valves contain some kind of siphon.

There is another type of dry shutters, for which sometimes too abstruse names are invented, such as the cellular memory of the material. Usually they are a stocking made of flattened rubber, which begins to pass water under a slight pressure. It is unlikely that this is of interest for a country bath.

Skilled owners, even with very limited funds, can easily reproduce, and, possibly, improve any type of water seal.

Floor and sewer

With the laying of the sewerage route, there is much more trouble than directly with the drain from the bath, but it is better to do it, the neater the better.

Even if the floor in the bath is covered with wooden bars, then anyway, it is better to make a screed along the beacons with a slight uniform slope to the ladder, and lay a tile on it. The final trimming of the drain extension can be done when it is known exactly at what height the tile will approach the drain point. If the work is done very carefully, then even with a minimal slope there will be no puddles.

Providing access, with the possibility of replacing all elements, is too much luxury for an ordinary bath. Therefore, do not avoid work that may seem superfluous, for example, the depth of the sewerage should not be less than the freezing depth. To insulate the floor under a 20 cm screed with a layer of expanded clay with greasy cement mortar is by no means overkill. A dry ladder is also not a panacea - dirt that has entered the shutter can prevent it from closing tightly. At the end of the season, it does not hurt to rinse removable elements. Buying a dry water seal in a store or making it yourself - this issue is not necessarily associated with financial difficulties.

Dry water trap for sewage in a bath: factory and home-made options

Types of water seals. What is the difference between a dry water seal and a wet one. Is it possible to make a dry water trap for sewage in a bath on your own.

We start building a bath

Creating a drain hole

The construction of a bath is not complex process. Integral elements of this room are a stove, a steam room and a drain pit. Before proceeding to masonry work, close attention should be paid to creating a future drain for proper water flow. It is necessary to make this design in such a way that the pit is in operation for a long period of time, and the water flow flows freely. At the same time, the drain should not emit sharp and unpleasant odors, as well as create obstacles in the area.

Before building a bath, it is necessary to draw up a plan with the detailed dimensions of all rooms.

For construction works we need the following tools:

concrete mixer;
2 shovels - bayonet and shovel;
several buckets (up to 5 pieces);
trowel;
pick;
stairs;
building level;
roulette;
tamper;
pliers.

The location of the sewage pit may vary. It can be placed inside the bath under the floor, where the sink will be located, and outside the foundation of the building. When the drain pit is intended for temporary use, it can be made small and placed behind the bath. For periodic cleaning, cover it with a lid or leave it open.

The creation of a temporary pit for draining, in most cases, is carried out on land plots consisting of clay-type soils.

Schematic device of the drain.

The “rough” floor is covered with a 20-cm layer of expanded clay, which helps to increase the service life of the concrete floor, levels the temperature difference in winter and prevents the pit from freezing in cold period time. The area of the entire floor is reinforced with trimmings of corners, thick wire or pipes that are attached to the lid of the pit. The pouring of the concrete solution is carried out with the presence of slopes directed from the walls to the drain.

Creating a drain hole

As drain pipes, you can use products made of metal, asbestos or plastic. Plastic pipes are more preferable because of the low price and ease of installation.

Building a bath is not a difficult process. Integral elements of this room are a stove, a steam room and a drain pit. Before starting masonry work, close attention should be paid to creating a future drain for proper water flow. It is necessary to make this design in such a way that the pit is in operation for a long period of time, and the water flow flows freely. At the same time, the drain should not emit sharp and unpleasant odors, as well as create obstacles in the area.

In the event that it is planned to create a permanent drain, the pit should be placed in the central part of the bath. Its dimensions should be as follows: length and width - up to 0.5 m, depth - up to 1.5 m. The walls of the drain pit are poured with a 20-cm layer of concrete mortar, which is reinforced with metal mesh and compacted with small stones or pieces of brick.

Scheme of a drain pit from old tires.

After concreting the walls, the pit is covered wooden planks impregnated with a used mixture of diesel oil. To cover the pit, you can use formwork boards, removing them after the poured mortar has solidified. A concrete cover is poured over the boards, the thickness of which is approximately 10 cm. The cover is pre-reinforced with wire. To strengthen the walls of the pit, you can use concrete or metal rings (half rings). The main thing is that during the implementation of this process, the entire structure is firmly strengthened and does not fail.

A drain hole should be made for the pit cover. In this case, it must be connected to a water seal. In turn, the water lock is located in the most convenient and accessible place of the bath. By technological features the creation of a drain pit is somewhat reminiscent of a septic tank, but in much smaller volumes and sizes.

The main design solution to prevent unpleasant odors

A water lock prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the drain hole into the inside of the bath, which contributes to a comfortable stay in the room. The shutter is made of metal and installed before the floor is poured or concreted in a small recess into which a plate made of durable tin is inserted (it is better to use stainless steel or non-ferrous metal). The bottom of the plate should be approximately 5-10 mm below the outlet drain pipe. A water lock is usually made at the lowest point in the middle of the room. The entire surface is reinforced with metal wire and lining.

Water lock for baths and drains: the process of creation and location

A water seal for a bath prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the drain pit into the interior of the room, which contributes to a comfortable stay in it.

Sewerage in the bath do-it-yourself scheme

Gone are the unprepossessing bath buildings with an arbitrary runoff of dirty water into "nowhere" or the nearest body of water. Today, sewerage in the bath is not a luxury, but a necessity. Not only the norms of ethics and aesthetics, but also the requirements of laws aimed at ensuring the environmental safety of the environment are pushing for the installation of a high-quality sewage disposal system.

Do-it-yourself sewerage for a bath

The first step to the improvement of the bath is to assess the condition of the soil on the site, determine the optimal pipe laying depth and resolve the issue of the location of the septic tank. The easiest way is for those homeowners who were directly involved in the construction of the bath or built (built) it on their own. For them, the type of soil, its freezing point (TPG) and the level of groundwater occurrence (GWL) are not a secret.

Did you build a bath with your own hands? So you should already have data on soil geology

Without knowledge of these indicators, it is impossible to build a trouble-free sewer system. For those who have purchased a plot with a bathhouse built on it, you will need to perform a set of simple observations and calculations.

Independent study of the geology of the site

To determine the type of soil, you can conduct an express study that does not require special knowledge and is based on visual inspection and tactile sensations. For this purpose, a hole is dug 25-30 cm below the TPG at the proposed place for laying pipes. Information on the depth of soil freezing in a given area can be obtained from neighbors, from reference books, on specialized Internet resources.

Soil freezing depth

It is important to take a soil sample exactly at the bottom of the pit, since sewer pipes will be laid at this level. After that, the soil sample is carefully examined visually, rubbed between the palms, rolled into a tourniquet.

And evaluate the results according to the table.

Methods for determining soils

If it turns out that the soil is clay or loam, you should know that these categories of soils are classified as strongly heaving. In this case, the pipes will need to be laid on a sand "pillow" by analogy with "floating" foundations. Sand will act as a shock absorber during seasonal soil movements and the integrity of the underground part sewer system will not be broken.

After the safe depth of the pipeline is clarified, the issue with the location of the septic tank (filtration well) is resolved. The wastewater collection point must be separated from the water intake point by at least 15 m and located no closer than 7 m from the foundation of the bath.

Choosing the type of sewer system

For the improvement of the bath, it is possible to use three types of individual sewage:

non-pressure;
pressure;
connected to a centralized city drainage system or to an existing sewerage system of a private house.

Non-pressure system

The non-pressure method of draining wastewater is otherwise called gravity. This is the simplest and least expensive type of sewer for a bath. Its main advantage: energy independence. The installation of a non-pressure system requires careful observance of the slope of the pipes (1-1.5 cm per 1 linear meter) and is impossible with a complex terrain.

To transport wastewater, pipes of a larger diameter are required than with a pressure system. The straightness of the line is highly desirable. If the pipeline scheme includes turning points, manholes are equipped in these places. This rule is relevant for any type of sewer system.

Installation of non-pressure sewer pipes Lookout well

pressure system

General scheme of pressure sewerage

The pressure sewer system provides for the forced transportation of wastewater, which is provided by a pump or pumping station. The equipment can be installed both indoors and outdoors. A pressure sewer system for a bath is built if, for some reason, it is impossible to make a non-pressure one. Features of this type of sewerage:

pressure is more expensive than non-pressure;
volatile;
requires insulation of equipment in the winter.

Pressure sewer with fecal pump Pressure sewer pipe

Mortise sewerage system

A less time-consuming, but most troublesome way is to connect to a centralized sewer network. This method is not possible for all bath owners. Therefore, it does not make sense to consider it in all details.

Connection to a centralized sewer network

More often, the connection of the drain system to the septic tank already on the site is used. However, in this case, you will also have to choose the type of drainage system (pressure or non-pressure).

Connection to a septic tank

We design a sewerage scheme for a bath

A single sewer system for greater ease of design is divided into two types: internal and external. The first includes communications inside the premises, the second - outside the building. Having familiarized yourself with the basic principles of constructing a circuit, it is easy to develop it yourself.

Design stages

It is necessary to draw a plan of the bath, taking into account the thickness of the walls and partitions of the building. For this purpose, graph paper is best, but you can use a regular checkered sheet.

External network design rules:

at the junction of the outer and internal sewerage provide an inspection hatch;
according to SNiP, manholes are arranged at the turning points of the main line, at the points of connection of a separate side branch of the pipeline, every 15-35 m of a straight line with a pipe diameter of 100-150 mm;
according to SNiP, the slope of the external sewage system with a pipe diameter of 110-150 mm is 0.01 (1 cm per 1 meter);
the first revision well should be no closer than 3 m and no further than 12 m from the bath;
if the site has a large slope and a toilet bowl is provided in the room, a multi-stage sewerage system with overflow wells is arranged.

Approximate scheme of the internal sewerage of the bath

Water seal options

A water seal is the most important element of the sewer system, the purpose of which is to cut off unpleasant odors coming from a septic tank (drain hole). Simply put, this is a water plug that is in the pipe even if the bath is not used. An example of a simple water seal - U-trap. On the highway from plastic pipes the water plug is arranged using three shaped elements: bends.

The difficulty is that with a rare use of the sewer system, the water in the water seal tends to evaporate. In this case, experts recommend installing a dry shutter. It is a simple plastic or metal structure, equipped with a spring and a damper (membrane) that blocks the exit from the pipe. When water enters the system, the damper leans back under its pressure, and after passing through the flow, it again takes its place.

Craftsmen make unique home-made valve systems for bath drains. If you wish, you can use one of the following options.

Funnel and ball closure. An example for clarity

Dry shutter in sewer pit

Which pipes to choose

In fact, the choice of pipes for sewerage is not so great.

Pig-iron pipes for sewerage

PVC (polyvinyl chloride);
PVCC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride);
PP (polypropylene);
HDPE (low pressure polyethylene);
polyethylene corrugated.

Any of these products can be safely used in a sewerage device. The diameter of the main line is chosen based on the expected intensity of operation of the building and the number of drain points. For an average bath with a steam room, a washing room and a toilet, when installing a gravity drain system, pipes with a cross section of 100-110 mm are required. If the toilet is not provided, a diameter of 50 mm is sufficient. Sanitary equipment is connected to the main line with pipes with a cross section of 50 mm.

Installation of the internal sewerage system of the bath

It is necessary to start sewerage at the construction stage of the bath. But it is also possible to equip a ready-made, long-term exploited building. The scope of work and their sequence in both cases are different, so each of the options must be considered separately.

Pipes for the internal sewerage of the bath

Installation of sewerage at the construction stage of the bath

To perform the work, a previously drawn up plan (scheme) of the sewer system will be required. In order to accurately find the connection points for plumbing elements (ladders, showers, toilet bowls, sinks, etc.), they start marking after the foundation has been erected. In places where the main highway is laid, trenches of the appropriate width and depth are dug.

Important: The bottom of each ditch is leveled taking into account the required slope towards the septic tank.

Then proceed to the laying of pipes. Experts advise starting the installation of the sewer system with the installation of the main pipe and large (nodal) elements, to which side branches of a smaller diameter are subsequently brought.

Sewer system installation

In places where plumbing is connected, vertical pipes are installed. To prevent foreign objects from entering the network, each outlet is closed with a plug. Mount the ventilation stack.

At the connection points of plumbing, vertical pipes with plugs are installed.

In regions with a cold climate, pipe insulation is performed. For this purpose, fibrous materials (mineral wool and its analogues), polystyrene half-cylinders, foamed polyethylene are used. If desired, you can pre-wrap the pipes with noise-absorbing material, which will significantly reduce the volume of sounds emitted by the operating system.

Form a sand cushion.

Installation of internal sewerage in the room

If the bath has been in operation for more than a year, it is also possible to arrange a dirty water drainage system in it. To do this, you need to draw up a diagram and open the floor in the right places. Installation of pipes is carried out at the level of the foundation, in one of the walls of which a hole is drilled to output the main line.

Drains are installed in the washing and steam rooms. In the performance of work adhere to the following rules:

the ladder must be level with the floor;
gaps are closed with moisture-resistant grouts;
tiles are laid after installing the ladder.

Bath external sewerage device

main element outdoor system sewage disposal - septic tank. If there is no toilet in the bath, there is no need to buy a factory product or equip a well with multi-level filtration of wastewater on your own. Enough to dig a drainage hole. But it is relevant only for soils with a high level of moisture permeability (stony, sandy, sandy loam).

Video - Do-it-yourself drain pit

Installation of sewerage with a drainage pit

according to the scheme, the site is marked: they find the location of the waste collection point, determine the route for laying the highway;
dig a hole 1-1.5 m deep below the TPG;
a 20-30 cm layer of sand and gravel is poured at the bottom;
to prevent crumbling of soil walls, a metal container or a column of large diameter car tires can be installed in the pit. A more solid construction is a frame built of bricks.

Start laying the highway. They dig a trench with a depth below the TPG and form a slope towards the drainage pit. Pipes are laid and the compliance of the slope with the requirements of SNiP is checked.

Manholes are arranged at the turning points of the pipeline. In order to prevent freezing of pipes in these places in cold weather, it is necessary to perform insulation and close the holes with double covers.

The place where the pipe enters the drainage pit is sealed with cement mortar or mounting foam.

Perform insulation of the main line by any convenient way: by wrapping pipes with mineral wool or by laying foam.

Sewerage with a pit

In areas with clay soil for waste disposal, it is recommended to install a pit located under the floor of the bath. The presence of this sink does not relieve the owner from the need to install an external pipeline that transports water outside the premises. The pit serves as an auxiliary structure for the smooth operation of the sewer system.

Sewerage with a pit

Dig a hole under the floor square shape with a rib length of at least half a meter and a depth of 1-1.5 m. At a height of 10-15 cm from the floor level, a pipe is installed connecting the pit with external sewerage. Observe a slope of 1 cm per 1 linear meter towards the water outlet. The bottom and walls of the pit are concreted.

Basic moments

The owner of the bath must remember that each stage of the sewerage device requires careful observance of the requirements for it. The reliability of the system is ensured by a properly designed scheme and exact compliance of the pipe slope with the norms of SNiP. The comfort of staying in the bath is guaranteed by the presence of a hydro or dry shutter.

Do not neglect the device of the ventilation system, as it forms an optimal air exchange and contributes to the weathering of moisture after bath procedures. This will help prevent the formation of fungus and mold. For regions with a cold climate, it is extremely important to perform high-quality work on the insulation of the sewer system.

Sewerage in the bath do-it-yourself scheme and step-by-step instructions!

Learn how to install external and internal sewerage. The choice of pipes, installation options, do-it-yourself sewerage in the bath, scheme, photo + video.

A real Russian bath has long been a full-fledged symbol, along with bears and vodka. The time when it was used only for its direct sanitary purpose has passed. Today, a bathhouse is a place of relaxation, communication with friends, which is accompanied not only by washing and wellness procedures, but by various cultural events. If earlier the sewerage in the bath was arranged at the most primitive level, now, in order to create comfortable conditions, it is necessary to approach this issue more carefully.

There are several ways to drain water from the bath, the choice of which depends on:

the presence of sewer networks,
soil's ability to drain water.

by the most the best option there will be, of course, water diversion into the central sewerage system. Unfortunately, this option is only suitable for places with a well-developed infrastructure. Therefore, in many cases, when deciding how to make a sewer in a bath, you have to resort to other solutions. A similar result can be provided by an autonomous sewerage system, which is now being equipped by many country houses. The cost of such a system is quite high. Water is drained from the bath using standard sewer networks, which are installed using conventional technology.

Water drainage using local drainage is the most common sewage device in the bath. Water is diverted to local drainage wells, which provide wastewater treatment. It can be used in soil conditions that absorb moisture well. In case of poor drainage qualities of the surrounding soil, water is discharged into special pits, from which water is simply discharged through the laid sewer pipes outside the bath room. In doing so, all sanitary requirements in terms of the distance from the place of water discharge to other buildings.

Installation of internal sewerage in the bath

In a traditional Russian bath, the steam room is usually combined with a washing room. True, modern trends reach such a primordially Russian building, so quite often now there are steam rooms with showers or even a pool. Consider the installation of a bath sewer for various cases. In a traditional bath, water is only needed from one room - the steam room. This is done in the following way. The flooring is carried out with a slope to one of the walls.

A special gap is left between the wall and the floor covering, where water is drained.

Under the floor, along the entire gap, a special gutter is mounted, which used to be usually made of asbestos-cement or steel pipe. The first of them cannot be called healthy, and the second quickly rotted away. Now most often used plastic or other composite pipes that are not susceptible to corrosion. The gutter is installed with a slope towards the outlet of the sewer pipe from the building. If it is necessary to drain water from several rooms, it is advisable to install a similar gutter under the partition separating the rooms , so the laying of the sewerage system of the bath will be simplified. More modern way is the removal of water from washing rooms through specially arranged drain holes, the so-called ladders. They can be mounted on any type floor coverings, the main thing is to plan the slope of the floor correctly so that the water gets into the ladder, and does not stagnate into the room.

Removing the smell of sewage in the bath

Mistakes that an inept sewer installer can make often lead to an unpleasant sewer smell in the bath room. In order to avoid such a problem, the following recommendations should be followed.

Each water outlet must be equipped with a so-called water seal. Most often it is performed using a drain siphon. It may have a different shape, size, but the principle of operation for all models is the same.

In such a device, there is always a kind of water plug, which prevents the penetration of odors of the system into the room. For the same purpose, ventilation of the bath sewer must be provided, in addition, such a system ensures that water is drained without unnecessary noise effects.
Ventilation ensures the flow of air into the sewerage system when draining water. If there is no such inflow, when water moves through the pipe, a rarefaction zone is formed, which leads to the so-called disruption of the water seal. At the same time, water from the shutter goes into the system, and the smell of sewerage begins to enter the room. The easiest way to make such ventilation is from an ordinary 50 mm plastic sewer pipe, it is advisable to bring it to the roof of the building, closing it with a special cap.

Installation of local drainage wells

As already mentioned, very often the output of water is carried out in drainage wells. Therefore, before you make a sewer in the bath, you need to take care of its arrangement.

The area of such a well depends on the volume of flow, but for a bath it should be at least 1 square meter.

The well is arranged at a distance of 4-5 meters from the building, its depth should be at least 1.2-1.5 meters, and should be at least 60-70 cm more than the freezing depth.

The upper part of the well and its bottom are covered with a layer of clay, then backfilled with expanded clay, crushed stone or other similar drainage material. The withdrawal of water from the bath will be carried out through sewer pipes to this layer, passing through which the effluents will be cleaned and absorbed into the ground.

Connecting sewerage to a central or autonomous system

In the modern version, the sewerage for the bath is mounted from standard plastic pipes and fittings. When laying external sewer lines, it is necessary to observe the slope angle to ensure the normal operation of the system.

For pipes with a diameter of 50 mm minimum slope should be 0.03, and for 100 mm pipes 0.02 (2 cm per 1 meter).

Do not forget also about the device of viewing and rotary wells. Usually the walls of such wells are made of special concrete rings, although it is quite possible to lay them out of stone, brick, or other similar material.

From the outside, the well must be waterproofed to prevent sewage from entering the soil. In the case of passing the sewer line to the tie-in central system in a straight line, it is necessary to make one manhole, with the installation of a revision (cleaning) on the sewer pipe. This is necessary to clean the system in emergency situations.

Where does the unpleasant smell come from in the steam room in the bath or sauna? The answer to this question is both clear and unexpected. It smells like a stove along with a stone. It may smell, or it may not. Why? Experts’ conclusions. I’ll add a little gag and put in 5 kopecks about this topic, because I have never heard from people who went to the bathhouse with me (including the public one) that they smell an unpleasant smell carbon monoxide. I started with this question, so as not to return to it again.

Carbon monoxide is odorless, so you can smell anything but the smell of carbon monoxide.

As a rule, this is due to poor draft into the pipe from the furnace, or, worse, the presence of holes in the structure of the pipe or furnace.

Although this is doubtful. Even if there are holes directly in the stove, due to the draft force in the chimney, air from the steam room is drawn into these holes, and not pushed out of them. Because there is a reduced pressure in the combustion zone, which sucks in air not only through the blower, but also through these holes.

The situation is more complicated with an unpleasant smell in the steam room of the bath, which appears during steam procedures or at the stage of preparing the bath. It looks like this: before you kindle the stove - there is no smell, but immediately after kindling the smell appears. What reasons?

Why does an unpleasant smell appear in the steam room in the bath?

This happens for the following reasons:

a bad stone, which inside contains inclusions of minerals and salts with a sulfur component. It is the cause and will spoil your mood for a long time - until you simply replace the stone in the heater. This is especially sinned by loose rocks of self-assembled stone.
application of paints and varnishes and finishing materials not intended for high temperatures (their smell is different from others and its nature is immediately clear)
warmer air is more likely to show faint odors (come into the steam room clean...)
the second reason is the most tricky and not always clearly manifested. Symptoms of bad breath look like this:

You purchase, for example, a certified soapstone stone and cover your furnace with a grid from the outside, covering all the sides of the steel furnace. Every week you take a steam bath, pour oil solutions and herbal infusions over the stone, and then you start to notice. that the unpleasant odor in the bath increases. What's the matter? - you make a claim to the seller of the stone. And he just has nothing to do with it. The mode in which you use the stone is very important.

Soapstone - good for use in batch furnaces. Those. where the stone is licked by fire directly, and not heated through the sides of a steel firebox. Characteristic soapstone at high temperatures - to form a strong crust resistant to aggressive environments on the surface. It is thanks to her that it does not crumble and withstands many cycles of fire exposure.

When the stone is located outside the furnace, the heating temperature of the stone is unlikely to exceed 300 degrees and a protective crust is not formed. The stone absorbs moisture well with low evaporation. And the water contains the smallest particles of herbs and roots, berries - other organic matter, which I saturate with solutions and infusions. A weakly heated stone and particles of its dust absorb this organic matter. So it provokes an unpleasant odor the next time the stones are heated. Getting on the hot metal of the bottom of the furnace at high temperature, the biomass particles begin to burn, smolder and give off a smell.

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to have a very high temperature of the stone so that these particles do not have time to absorb or settle during evaporation, or use only oils that give completely transparent solutions for bath procedures.

As you can see, the presence of a certified and “correct” stone does not always save you from an unpleasant smell in the steam room and bath.

Pay attention to the flowability of your stone. When exposed to heat, stone dust is released and scattered from the stone - this is the first sign that an unpleasant odor may soon appear. But if you are not lazy and shift the stone once every half a year, this dust can be removed from the bottom of the stove furnace.

Bath odor protection

In a way, I also use such a preventive method of protecting the stone from precipitation of plant residues - a dense canvas bag in which I infuse herbs. The water has a color, but the remains of chamomile, mint and other herbs do not float in it, which crumble and sometimes turn into dust.

So I prevent that an unpleasant smell does not appear in the steam room in the bath or sauna. Hope. These simple tips will help you get only the most pleasant sensations from steam and bath procedures. I try to carry out the aromatization of the steam room - by laying out brooms and branches of herbs directly on the shelves. With light steam, friends!

Other causes of bad smell from the sauna stove

remnants of factory unburnt paint
factory grease inside the pipes
not completely removed and burning protective film from scratches from stoves with a stainless convector
use of mineral and stone wool instead of asbestos and other cords
poor-quality backfilling of chimneys-sandwiches
smoldering broom leaves fallen between the stones of the heater
the presence of mold under the upholstery of the steam room and poor drying

Secret life hacks for bath attendants: in stoves with steam generators on the sides of the furnace walls in the form of plates, lay stones so that the dust from them does not fall into the gutters. to remove it from there is very difficult and it is necessary to disassemble the convector.

Video of the first firing of the kiln before operation

Built a bath. Already started using last season. Steam room (6.5 m3) - like in a sauna: made of brick, with good insulation and finishing. I bought a Termofor "Compact" heater for a bath. So, when we heat the stove, an unpleasant smell appears. As the stove heats up, it intensifies. And it is so sharp and suffocating that it just scares. At first he sinned that, they say, the bathhouse is new: we will use it - over time, everything will disappear by itself. But no, I fired it 10 times, but everything is the same. What to do?

Let's try to understand offhand what can give such an effect, although it is difficult to “make a correct diagnosis” for a bath in absentia. An odor may appear if there is grease in the chimney.

It is possible that this is the smell of the paint used to paint the stove. Theoretically, it should have completely dried by now, but anything can happen. So, paint can't be ruled out either.

Maybe it's the rocks. Check out this version: remove the stones and heat the stove without them. If the smell disappears, then you should replace the stones and take better ones.

As for the choice of stones, it is generally worth being as careful as possible with them. Illiterately selected, they can poison the owner of the bath. Take jadeite and basalt. Crimson quartzite is also suitable. But gabro-diabase generally bypass the tenth road. It's hard to choose, but it's not worth the risk. The probability that the stones are of high quality is 50/50.

The unpleasant smell in the bath does not please anyone, this is without a doubt. What could be the causes of bad smell? Is it possible to get rid of the smell in the bath? Questions like this often come up on forums. Therefore, no one can be insured against this misfortune.

First of all, I would like to remind everyone that there is no such problem that it would be impossible to cope with.

Any bathroom trouble can be solved. The only question is how much effort and material costs it will take.

To solve the problem of unpleasant odor will still have to sooner or later.

A bad scent not only causes negative feelings and emotions, it can negatively affect health.

The bath must smell good. Smell of the bath itself, brooms, oven heat.

People are so arranged, initially entering the room, we evaluate it by smell. And memories of this place will primarily be about how it smells.

If you begin to feel unpleasant odors, you must urgently take action.

Initially, you need to sniff properly and find out where the source is? Where is the bad smell coming from?

Smells like waste

The secret of carbon monoxide is that it is colorless, light and odorless. How come it doesn't smell?

Yes, any owner of the bath will say that he knows exactly how it smells like fumes in the bath. The trick here lies in the impurities of organic fuel elements.

We do not feel carbon monoxide itself, but the products of burning wood.

Whenever we light a stove, carbon monoxide is released. This is the law of physics.

But we begin to feel the carbon monoxide smell, because not enough oxygen is supplied to the burning wood.

Why does the smell of fumes appear in the bath:

Bad draft in the oven.
Cracks in the oven lining.
Chimney blocked.
Clogged with ashes blew.

How to get rid of the smell of carbon monoxide in the bath

1. Inspect the oven carefully for cracks. If any are found, be sure to cover and plaster.
2. Clean the chimney.
3. Sort out the stones in the heater, get rid of stone chips and scrap.
4. Clean the ash pan and the stove mouth itself.
5. Wash the walls and ceiling of the sauna with a brush.
6. Ventilate the bath.

You can not wash in the bath until the waste is completely eroded.

Pungent odors can penetrate and even absorb natural materials, which are abundant in the bath.

metal oven

A purchased metal stove can also emit unpleasant odors. It is possible that the factory grease remained inside the pipe.

The cause of an unpleasant smell can be the usual paint that your stove is painted with. When iron is heated, the stove coating can emit a variety of fragrant muck.
Unsuitable materials (stone or mineral wool) are used as a sealant for chimney connections.

How to get rid of the smell of a metal furnace

1. Study the rules for the operation and installation of the furnace, perhaps you did not take into account the smallest details.
2. Heat and ignite the oven several times.
3. Check the connection of structures; an asbestos cord should be used as a sealant.

Stones in the furnace

The most common cause of unpleasant fumes in the bath is stones. And here the point is not only in the quality of the stones, but also in what they were watered with when they were steamed.

Stone quality

Maybe the stone itself smells bad? Maybe!

When heated to record temperatures and exposed to water, low-quality rocks break down and emit unpleasant odors.

This happens because some rocks have inclusions of minerals and sulfur. Sulfur in the stone can be seen with the naked eye - gray, metallic and even silvery shiny blotches.

High temperature and sudden cooling when water is supplied to the stone heater work wonders. Sulfur and minerals are released from their stone prison.

The stone breaks down and emits bad odors.

What do we hand over to the stones

A Russian bath without water supply to the heater is unthinkable. Often aromatic oils, beer, kvass, infusions of brooms are added to the water.

Aroma oils burn on stones and a pleasant smell turns into a rich fumes. Oils leave persistent soot on the stones. Do not pour pure oil on the stove. Replacing stones costs much more than any pleasant aroma.
I know I want this Russian bread aroma, but there is so much in modern beer! Therefore, the long-awaited bread smell does not last long. Gradually, it turns into an incomprehensible stench, which is tightly absorbed into the stones. In the bath for a long time it smells disgusting far from bread.
Leaves from a broom fell into the stone backfill of the stove. The leaves burn, the smell is appropriate.

How to get rid of odors in the stove

1. Sort and wash the stones.
2. Clean out the heart of the stone fill.
3. Reject stones with cracks, color stains.
4. Throw out burnt, empty stones.
5. Fill the heater only with certified products.
6. Do not use loose rocks for laying in the oven.
7. When laying in the oven, take into account the safety temperature conditions every stone.

paints and varnishes

The Russian bath has never pursued additional treatments and impregnations of shelves, walls, benches and so on.

It has been so customary since ancient times that the Russian bath does not tolerate synthetic materials, paints, lacquer finishing and polishing.

Sauna cabins are a completely different matter. They originally intended to use modern technologies and synthetics.

The classic Russian steam bath does not accept anything like this for a very simple reason.

We hand over water to the stones, we bathe with brooms.

Sharp temperature changes, water (which repeatedly changes its state from liquid to vapor) can change the properties of even the best impregnation at the molecular level.

Moisture and heat penetrate into any cracks and destroy any protection. As a result, we have a toxic smell in the bath.

How to get rid of the smell of varnish and impregnation

These are global works.

If the lining is impregnated, you will have to change the entire lining. Painted benches, shelves - try to sand the boards. If it doesn't work, throw it away and order new ones.

There is simply no other way to get rid of the smell of varnish, paint. To continue to soar with such smells in the hope that they will evaporate is stupid.

This can be compared to a weekly course of aromatherapy of toxic substances. A person in their right mind will never agree to voluntarily breathe paint or varnish for an hour.

Smell from under the floor

The floor may smell like either stagnant sewage or rotting floorboards.

Why smell wastewater? The sewer drain is clogged, an error in the installation of the sewer.

How to get rid of the smell from under the floor

1. Take it for granted: in case of smell from under the floor, no fragrances and special means disinfection won't help. It is required to open the floor, find out the cause of stagnant water. Perhaps the sewer was made without a water seal (this is also a siphon), you need to redo it.
2. Replace rotten or moldy boards.

How to keep a good smell in the bath

The bath itself is a place where they get rid of dirt and sweat. All that our body has developed in a week.

You can not immediately go to the steam room with a week of dirt on the body. The heated air brings out even faint odors quite strongly.

Perhaps the heavy spirit of an unwashed body is not a problem for you. But it spreads throughout the steam room. Literally everyone feels it.

Respect the bath brotherhood: before you go to steam, rinse or take a shower.

Baths need to be cleaned regularly. Clean the floor, wash basins, ladles, shelves and benches, dry washcloths, do not leave stale soap.

Be sure to get rid of brooms that have served their purpose.

Watch out for the first signs of mold and mildew. Deal with them immediately, preventing their spread.

On fine hot days, be sure to dry and ventilate the bathhouse, opening all the doors wide open.

Pleasant smells without sad consequences for the heater are guaranteed!

There is a recommendation to spray oils not on stones, but on walls. I don't recommend doing this. The fact is that the oil will be absorbed into the tree and leave its aroma in it. But not all oils are compatible with each other, allergic reactions are possible.