Loud unpleasant sounds made by various plumbing equipment are not uncommon. Next, you will learn about the causes of the noisy behavior of various plumbing fixtures and how to deal with it.

Loud unpleasant sounds made by various plumbing equipment are not uncommon. The murmur in the pipes and the toilet bowl, the buzzing faucet and the indecent snort of the siphon - all this gets on your nerves and makes it difficult to sleep. Next, you will learn about the causes of the noisy behavior of various plumbing fixtures and how to deal with it.

Noisy toilet cistern

The loudest sound a toilet makes is the flushing noise. It will not be possible to get rid of it, but it can be slightly muffled by lowering the seat cover. But the sound of filling the tank is quite realistic to make almost inaudible. This problem occurs with lateral supply, since the water jet in this case is directed vertically downwards.

As it falls, it makes a decent noise that continues until the shut-off valve trips. There are two solutions to this problem: run water through a thin hose so that it does not hit, but flows down it to the very bottom, or tie a strip of fabric to the valves, which also reaches the bottom of the tank.

It happens that a splash of water flowing into the toilet bowl is constantly heard. The tank cannot be filled. This happens due to improperly adjusted fittings or due to incomplete closure of one of the valves. In the first case, you need to adjust: lower the float, and if necessary, raise the overflow pipe. Please note that its edges must be at least two centimeters from the surface of the water.

If everything is adjusted correctly, and the tank is still gradually overflowing, then the stop valve gaskets do not fit snugly. Possible causes are wear or plaque formation. It is necessary to disassemble the fittings and thoroughly wash everything with soap. If that doesn't work, replace the gaskets.

It happens that the problem is drain fitting- the tank does not fill, although water flows continuously. Try to unscrew the button and reduce the length of the stem: it may not allow the valve mechanism to return to its original position and close the drain hole. Other options are wear of gaskets, plaque, contamination of the mechanism. What to do in these cases is written a little higher.

Loud noises in the sewers

Modern plastic sewer has one drawback: you can hear very well how water flows down it. Although the sound transmission of the material itself is much lower than that of the same cast iron, the walls polymer pipes pretty thin. If these noises are very annoying, it is worth taking measures to eliminate them. There are many materials that are suitable for soundproofing pipes: from the usual foam rubber to polyethylene foam. For greater aesthetics, you can hide the sewer in plastic or plasterboard boxes, or overlay it with ceramic tiles.

The faucet is buzzing

Of all the instruments in the plumbing orchestra, the humming faucet is the loudest. Worst of all, his hoarse roar is perfectly transmitted through the pipes and is able to wake up all the neighbors in the riser. Luckily, rubber-lined faucets and faucets are the only source of the hum. Its most likely cause is deformation of the bottom edge of the gasket. But if it is not the mixer that makes noise, but the coupling valve, then pay attention to the flow direction arrow. Perhaps it was installed incorrectly, which is why it buzzes.

To eliminate the malfunction, you need to unscrew the crane box, trim the edge of the gum with scissors or replace it with a new one. However, this will only help temporarily. Very soon, the faucet will buzz again, so you will have to change and cut the gaskets regularly. It is better to immediately replace the crane box with a ceramic one and forget about this problem.

Siphon gurgles

Surely everyone has heard the siphon snort, which is heard after the water leaves the sink. This happens quite often due to the low capacity of the sewer. This is due to insufficient pipe slope or blockage. In this case, the water, flowing down, fills the entire available clearance. Continuing to move, it leaves behind a rarefaction area, into which it begins to suck air through the siphon. This is where the unpleasant sounds of a water lock are heard.

First of all, inspect the siphon tube for clogging and clean if necessary. If this is not available, make sure that the sewer has the required 3% slope. If not, you will need to raise it. It's tricky, but worth doing. And not even so much to eliminate noise, but to prevent blockages, which, if the pipe slope is incorrect, will not take long. So you have to partially disassemble the sunbed, rearrange the fasteners to the required height and assemble everything again. If the slope is in order, then arm yourself with a cable to clean the sewer and eliminate the blockage.

Noisy metal-plastic plumbing

After replacing steel pipes with metal-plastic, the loud sound of flowing water becomes an unpleasant surprise for many. This happens due to local constrictions in the fittings. The flow speed in such places increases, hence the noise. You cannot completely get rid of it, but at the stage of purchasing materials, you can take care of its reduction. Take a closer look at the fittings you purchase. Some have internal cones on both sides of the choke, while others do not. Fittings without cones are cheaper, but will make much more noise because they create more resistance to flow. So if you want silence - you should not take them.

Bubbling water in the heating system

The heating system usually operates silently. However, she sometimes begins to make quiet sounds. During the day they are almost inaudible, but in the silence of the night they are perfectly distinguishable. Rhythmic bursts of a stream running through pipes and radiators prevent you from falling asleep and activate unwanted reflexes. Water gurgles in the airy areas of the system, because only there can it splash. To solve the problem in the apartment, you need to bleed the air by opening the taps on the radiators. But it happens that the noise is caused by too fast coolant flow. There is nothing you can do about it, except to complain to the management company.

In private houses, which are often heated by a large-diameter water circuit, everything is a little more complicated. Such a system must have a slope from supply to return of at least 0.5% to avoid the formation of air cavities when powered. If the pipes were laid with a slope in the opposite direction, then the heating will certainly air. True, it will murmur only when it works. circulation pump.

In this case, it is not necessary to redo the system. First you need to find a plot with a reverse slope using the level and determine its highest point. Then weld the thread there, install the Mayevsky valve, and after filling the system, bleed the air.

Whistle in the gas column

For geysers the sounds of a burning flame and flowing water are characteristic, but sometimes a monotonous high-frequency whistle is mixed with them. Sometimes it is so loud that it is extremely difficult to endure it even for a short time. Both the gas path and the water path can whistle, so first you need to figure out exactly where the sound comes from.

To do this, turn off the gas valve from which the column is powered, and turn on the hot water. By the absence or resumption of the whistle, it will be possible to determine where to look for its cause. If everything is quiet, then the gas path should be recognized as responsible for the infernal serenade, and in the event of an unpleasant sound repeating, the water path.

Most often, the cause of such a trill is a structural defect in the valve, which is responsible for modulating the flame. Whistling in this case is observed only in one specific power range, when an ideal combination of valve clearance width and gas flow velocity occurs for it. To get rid of the problem, just change the position of the regulator up or down. With a decrease in power, the gas flow rate will become insufficient for the appearance of sound, and with an increase in the working clearance of the valve, the working clearance of the valve will be too wide.

Other possible reason- blockage in the gas path. Usually this happens due to the ingress of a foreign object, for example, scale or a piece of winding. In this case, the whistle, as a rule, is observed in a wide range of power. To determine in which particular section or node a blockage occurred, the gas path will have to be disassembled, examined and cleaned. Such work requires appropriate qualifications, so it is better to entrust it to the masters of Gorgaz or a private company that has a license for this.

It happens that an unpleasant sound comes from the water path. The reason, most likely, is again in the blockage. In this case, a decrease in heater performance should be observed. In addition to a foreign object, this can also cause scale on inner walls radiator. It begins to appear if the water temperature in the column regularly exceeds 60 °.

It is often possible to get rid of a foreign object with the help of a reverse flow. To do this, you must first shut off the water and gas supply to the heater. Then unscrew the liner at the inlet and let the water flow in the opposite direction. The easiest way to do this is with the bathroom faucet, setting the shower switch to neutral and opening both taps slightly.

To remove lime deposits from the column radiator, you will need a descaler. You can also use a solution of citric or acetic acid. Before starting work, it is better to remove the radiator, so it will be more convenient. The agent must be poured gradually, adding as the reaction subsides. After filling the radiator, the liquid is drained, and the procedure is repeated 3-4 more times.published

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to specialists and readers of our project.

Add site to bookmarks

• Kinds
• Choice
• Mounting
• Finishing
• Repair
• Installation
• Device
• Cleaning

How to eliminate noise in the mixer?

Almost anyone has experienced such an unpleasant phenomenon when a strong, unpleasant noise is heard when the tap is turned on in the bathroom or in the kitchen. It is believed that the crane itself is faulty, which you just need to change, but how true is this statement? Why does a crane of any design make noise?

The reason for this is quite simple: when the faucet is turned on, the flow of water passes through the cartridge installed inside. When the flow passes, there is a sharp drop in the pressure level inside, while a sharp noise is heard. This phenomenon is also called cavitation. The answer to the question is simple, but this does not calm the nerves. Such noise that appears every time you use the tap in the bathroom is very annoying, especially if there are small children in the house who can wake up from the noise. But this problem is not so complicated, it is easily solved, you just need to figure out the type of faucet that is installed in your bathroom or kitchen, since the repair depends on this.

It is necessary to determine when you turn on which particular tap a rumble occurs - cold or hot. This will help to disassemble the crane not entirely, but only that part of it, which, when turned on, causes a problem.

We are looking for a problem in the design

Before you figure out why the crane is noisy, you need to understand what it is and what varieties there are. Today, the market offers mixers of the most various designs among which the most popular are:

• conventional valve mixer;
• lever mixer;
• combined mixer;
• faucet for installation of a hygienic shower.

Consider these types of structures for water supply in more detail.

Valve mixers are devices that have valves for supplying water flow. In this case, the flow, volume, temperature of water is regulated by turning the valve. A special device is placed under the decorative handle, the so-called faucet box, which can be ceramic or traditional with a rubber gasket. In this case, when the crane makes noise, the problem lies precisely in the axle box. Rubber gaskets conventional device wear out over time and need to be replaced. In addition to noise, they can cause the faucet to leak, that is, the gasket needs to be replaced with a new one. For a ceramic cartridge, the noise is caused by a special silicone liner that regulates the ceramic rings. In this case, it is impossible to take and replace only the sagging liner, it is required to dismantle the entire crane.

Back to index

How is it with other mixer designs?

More modern is the lever mixer, which does not have valves. To supply water, adjust the pressure, its temperature, a special lever is used. It can rotate in different directions: up/down, right/left, depending on what result is needed. Moving this lever up/down switches the water on/off, moving it left/right switches between cold and hot mode. The mixers of this type used today can be divided into two groups:

1. Ball valve, where the water supply is regulated by a special sphere with three holes. Through two of them comes hot and cold water, and the third provides a jet of the required temperature. The lever regulates the position of the sphere, that is, the temperature, the pressure supplied through the spout of water.
2. With ceramic cartridge. Such valves are similar to ball valves, but they are more vulnerable. Adjustment of pressure and temperature is carried out by combining ceramic rings.

When the faucet makes noise when turned on, for lever mixers this means that it is not the faucet itself that is faulty, but it is simply necessary to adjust the pressure in the supply pipe. This is positive property mixers of this type, which are not only convenient and economical to use, but also more reliable.

Combined mixers are designs that can be of the valve type, but at the same time equipped with lever control.

In addition, faucets for a hygienic shower stand out separately. Here, the noise does not mean that the tap is not working, but that it is necessary to install equipment to control the pressure in the water pipes themselves.

As you can see, the conditions for the occurrence of noise in mixers different type may differ, so the repairs performed to resolve the problem will also be different.

Back to index

Noise Troubleshooting

The reasons why the mixer is noisy are varied, but they all agree on one thing - equipment malfunction. Most often, the crane makes noise due to a faulty crane box, that is, a special mixer assembly. They are conventional with a rubber gasket and ceramic. How to determine which type of crane box you have? Everything is pretty simple:

• if, when the water is opened, the mixer valve turns only half a turn, then you have a ceramic element installed;
• if it is necessary to provide several turns of the valve to turn on the water, then your mixer definitely has a regular axle box with a rubber gasket.

One of the most common myths says that a mixer with a ceramic element cannot make noise, while ordinary faucets often become a source of strong and unpleasant noise. But this statement is fundamentally wrong.

Both ceramic and conventional axle boxes are equally noisy in the event of a malfunction.

What to do if a crane with a conventional axle box is buzzing? It is necessary to carry out repairs, observing the following procedure:

1. The first thing to do is to completely shut off the water supply that enters the mixer.
2. After that, it is necessary to disassemble the structure, remove the valve from the axle box. To do this, just unscrew the special bolt that the valve (or lever) holds.
3. After the valve is removed, it is necessary to carefully unscrew the faucet box, then remove the rubber gasket and inspect its condition.
4. If the condition of the gasket is unsatisfactory, it should simply be replaced with a new one, cutting off the edge by about one mm. When performing such preparation, it is necessary to ensure that the cutting angle is not less than 45 °. Further, for sealing, the gasket is wrapped with a fum tape and installed in its intended place.
5. After that, the axle box crane returns to its place, the valve is attached back, and the performance is checked. If everything is done correctly, then the mixer is no longer noisy.

Water heating is not always a silent heating system. Sometimes you can hear strange sounds coming from the pipelines. Some of them are completely harmless and can be ignored, while others are a signal of serious problems. Let's try to figure out why the water in the heating pipes is noisy, and what can be done about it.

What types of noise can pipes emit?

On Sounds from the Elements heating systems, there are legends. Under certain circumstances, not only heating pipes, but also other pipelines make noise in the house. At the same time, the sound range of all sanitary systems is approximately the same. The most "musical" are metal pipes, but plastic ones can also “please” with unusual melodies. The water heating system can make a wide variety of sounds:

• murmur;
• gurgling;
• rattling;
• knock;
• crackling;
• clicks;
• whistling;

Specific sounds signal the presence of problems in the heating system, therefore it is necessary to identify and eliminate the source of noise in a short time, since its systematic impact on a person leads to disorders nervous system interferes with sleep and reduces performance.
Why is water noisy in heating pipes

Noise in heating pipes is caused by the following reasons:

• air jams;
• high speed of movement of the coolant, due to an incorrectly selected diameter of the pipeline or a decrease in the internal lumen of the pipe due to overgrowth of its walls;
• coolant leakage in emergency areas or through poorly closed valves;
• scale peeled off from the walls of pipes or debris that got into the circuit during installation;
• faulty or incorrectly installed valves;
• excessive pump power or improper installation;
• wear of control valves or thermostatic heads;
• cavitation - the formation of steam bubbles in the coolant in the area of ​​a sharp increase in the diameter of the pipeline (the appearance of an area reduced pressure) with their subsequent collapse, destroying the equipment;
• violations of the installation technology (use, non-observance of the minimum distance between parallel sections of a metal pipeline during installation, installation of a filter or valve not in the direction of flow indicated on it, etc.).

Important! The central heating is always noisy. When the system is filled, the murmur of the coolant is heard, the heating of the circuit is accompanied by clicks, and the exit of air from it is accompanied by a whistle. Maintenance heating equipment before start-up can also be performed using impact. These noises usually disappear when the system is brought online and are not a cause for concern.

If extraneous sounds appeared at the height of the heating season or did not disappear after the start-up, then this is a signal of the presence of malfunctions, and problems should be looked for not only in oneself or neighbors in the riser, but also in heating point or an elevator node - the source of trouble can be located far outside the housing, since sound waves propagate well through pipes.

Noise elimination methods

The source of noise often turns out to be in the locations of common house communications. The coolant pressure at the heating main input node is the highest, so the slightest malfunctions in it can immediately declare themselves in the form of strange sounds throughout the entire entrance. In a private house, the noisiest place is the furnace or heat generator, where the boiler and its entire piping system are located.

On a note: Particularly sensitive to pressure drops are aluminum and bimetal radiators. Thin metal transmits any vibrations through itself, like a mouthpiece. In such heaters, the slightest technological noise acquires an enhanced sound.

If the problem turned out to be a malfunction of the collective property equipment, then it is not worth fixing it yourself. Worn-out nodes can literally crumble at the slightest attempt to unwind them, and all the blame will be placed on the one who unauthorizedly interfered with the work of a “perfectly tuned” system. It is better to file a complaint with a service organization and wait patiently for their representative to repair faulty components.

A visual memo with the coordinates of the addressees if it is necessary to apply for housing and communal services

If you managed to diagnose problems within your own or neighboring housing, then you should deal with their elimination as soon as possible. In this case, any delay is fraught with aggravation of the situation and complication of repair work.

How to get rid of noise in the heating system

Each malfunction in the heating system creates a type of noise characteristic only for it, which is a clue in the diagnosis. The list of measures taken depends on what sounds the heating pipes emit.

Buzz, howl

The loudest and most annoying kind of noise. Trumpets can blare out of the blue and give rise to poltergeist stories. Nevertheless, mysticism has nothing to do with it, and communication with spirits will not save you from the noise in the pipes.

When a hum appears, you need to look for a coolant leak. First of all, a thorough inspection of your home is carried out, then all neighboring apartments. If everything is dry, then the search continues in the basement. A cloud of steam, a puddle or a whistle will help you easily determine the place where the water flows. Repairs to apartment buildings Management Company, in a private house - the owner of the housing. After inspecting the problem area, a decision is made on how to eliminate the malfunction - by repairing or replacing the assembly, sometimes it is enough just to tighten a poorly closed valve.

Another reason for the hum may be the use of pipes with a diameter smaller than the calculated one in the heating system. In this case, the problem area is determined by ear, and the necessary section of the pipeline is replaced by a material with greater permeability. At correct selection pipes and high-quality performance will no longer have to listen to the pipes hum.

Distribution node system central heating in the basement apartment building old building

Bubbling, crackling and clicking

Particles of debris, sludge or exfoliated scale, when moving through pipes, hit the walls and rub against them, creating noise in the form of crackling or seething. A characteristic sound during clogging is also a click. To eliminate this kind of noise, it is necessary to flush the system.

Foreign objects in the pipes will click until they come out. Therefore, all liquid is drained from the system through the drain cock. Using a hose, the old coolant with garbage is sent to the sewer, the system is additionally washed with water ( steel pipes are tapped on the outside with a wooden mallet to peel off scale from the inside walls), after which the heating circuit is refilled.

Important! Before draining dirty water, it is better to dismantle the drain valve in order to allow large fragments of debris to come out and not clog the shut-off device with them.

Quite often, pipes crack and click due to a malfunction of the valve or its installation in the wrong direction of flow. The curved through hole is easily clogged, and over time a plug may form in it, completely blocking the movement of the coolant. Partial overlapping of the pipe clearance with debris creates noise during the passage of water. If the valve is located the other way around, then the liquid enters it not from the bottom side of the locking disc, but from above, which leads to the destruction of the stem and the separation of the valve. In this case, the movement of the coolant will also be accompanied by noise.

The most rational way out of the situation is to replace the valve, since it is already partially worn out in the wrong position and therefore unpredictable after reinstallation. In the absence of a new assembly, you can temporarily install the old one by replacing the threaded joint seal material.

Advice: When choosing a new shut-off and control valve, you need to keep in mind that ball (plug) valves are much more practical to use, can be installed in any direction and are not as sensitive to blockages as screw valves.

If the ball valve is closed tightly, it can also become a source of noise. This is not a malfunction and is eliminated by slightly opening it or completely closing it. Valves with thermostatic heads can also make noise if the temperature set on them is close to the actual room temperature. In this case, the entrance to the radiator is not completely blocked, and the coolant passes through a small hole with a characteristic sound. To get rid of the noise, just turn the head towards the sprocket.

Murmur, whistle

With the accumulation of air, it becomes audible how the water murmurs in the heating pipes - a very common phenomenon. Air can enter the system during repair work, sucked in through loose connections - an air lock, regardless of its origin, prevents the normal circulation of the coolant. Not only does the water murmur annoyingly, but also the heaters do not heat up properly. In the event of the formation of an air lock that completely blocks the lumen of the pipe, the radiators after the problematic section of the pipeline will remain cold.

Air always accumulates at the highest points of the system, as it is lighter than water. It is there that special valves or automatic air collectors are usually installed. Radiators located at the end of a horizontal branch must be equipped with a Mayevsky crane. In some types of systems, each heater has a so-called "air vent". Knots modern designs easily rotated by hand, older ones will have to be controlled with an adjustable wrench or a screwdriver.

First of all, you need to try to bleed the air from the radiators of your apartment. The operation starts with the coldest fixture, if any. Often it is local air pockets that interfere with heating. If this does not work, then you need to ask the neighbors from the top floor to find the appropriate faucet and open it. In difficult situations, it is better to call a qualified plumber. A characteristic whistle serves as an indicator of success - the release of air.

Advice: To avoid getting a burn, open the Mayevsky tap smoothly, being careful - hot water the system is under pressure. In addition, to collect the water that will flow from the radiator, you must first prepare a container of sufficient volume with a wide neck.

Knocking, rattling

Knocking is usually caused by a loose pipe or radiator bracket. The slightest vibration during the passage of the coolant through such a unit causes rattling, and if the supports are very loose, the radiator beats against the fasteners. The system will stop making noise if the brackets are firmly fixed. To dampen vibrations, a heat-resistant rubber gasket can be installed between the instrument and the support.

Sometimes knocking can be caused by too close parallel or crossing pipes. With temperature deformations, one pipeline begins to touch another, beat against it and becomes a source of noise. Soundproofing can save the situation if the existing gap is enough to accommodate it. Otherwise, to eliminate the knock, you will have to shift the problem area.

In some cases, knocking on heating pipes in apartment buildings is caused by the discontent of the neighbors. This type of noise is usually distinguished by the absence of periodicity and occurs in the form of a reaction to certain provoking actions. That's just "enjoy" the specific sounds have all the inhabitants of the riser. Here, technical measures will not help, soundproofing can only partially save. Conflicts with neighbors are resolved only through dialogue and diplomacy.

Expert advice on preventing unwanted sounds in the heating circuit

The likelihood of noise in heating pipes can be reduced by adhering to the following recommendations from professionals:

Important! In search of the source of noise, a dry stick (shovel handle) can help, one end of which is pressed tightly against the ear, and the other - in turn to the elements of the heating system. In a problem area, the noise will manifest itself louder and clearer.

Conclusion

In this article, at the household level, the question is considered: what to do if the heating pipes are noisy? The first and most important step is to locate the source. Then you need to objectively assess your strengths and possible consequences from attempting troubleshooting to deciding whether to troubleshoot immediately or postpone repair work until the end of the heating season.

Some of the problems in the operation of heating can be eliminated with your own hands, but in difficult cases you cannot do without specialists. In apartment buildings, it is better to entrust the solution of the issue to public utilities, while not forgetting to control their actions. Responding to the noise in the pipes in a timely manner, you will save your health and nerves, as well as protect the heating system from more serious damage.

Everyone who has had it done in their house or apartment water heating faced with such a phenomenon as noise in pipes. Let's consider it in more detail, because this is a sign of incorrect operation of the system, incorrectly selected according to technical specifications instruments and devices, or incorrectly assembled circuit pipeline.

Long-term practice of operating heating assembled on pipes made of different materials, showed that heating pipes made of steel or cast iron make the most and loudest noise. But metal-plastic or PVC pipelines can also generate noise in the heating system of this order: seething in the boiler or in pipes, gurgling, clicks and knocks, crackling and rattling, whistling. Each such sound indicates a specific breakdown or cause of the noise. But in addition to identifying the cause of the noise, we can find out what to do to eliminate this or that noise.

We list the main reasons why the heating pipes of a private house or apartment in a high-rise building are buzzing:

1. Airing in the heating system;
2. Strong noise in the heating pipes may appear due to the high speed of movement of the working fluid, which can happen if the diameter of the pipes is incorrectly selected, and also due to the fact that metal pipes become covered from the inside with lime and mineral deposits over time;
3. If water gurgles, this means that the coolant is flowing through a crack in the pipe, through an open valve, or through a poorly sealed threaded connection;
4. There may be such reasons: rust or scale has peeled off and clogged the pipe, so the pipeline gurgles;
5. Incorrect installation stop valves and other equipment;
6. If you turned on the circulation pump and noise, hum or buzz appeared, then the pump power may be too high;
7. Depreciation (wear and tear) of fittings or thermostats;
8. Also, the water in the heating system of a private house can make noise due to the fact that the steam in the superheated coolant flowing from a pipe of a smaller diameter to a pipe of a larger diameter and vice versa collapses loudly and makes the noise of the heating system.

How to neutralize noise in pipes

The source of noise in the house is often the areas where communications are located - the boiler room, the places of the piping system, the collector, etc. Each malfunction in the heating system is accompanied by its original sounds and noises, therefore, it is often possible to diagnose a problem precisely by the way the water gurgles;

1. Buzz or howl in the heating pipes due to the leakage of the working fluid. Leaks are usually easy to spot visually and are fixed by site repair or replacement of the broken unit.
2. The hum is caused by incorrect calculations of pipe diameters: the diameter is less than the calculated one - this is a mandatory buzz or seething;
3. Cracks or clicks in the pipes are the result of debris, salts or scale getting into the line. Solid particles rubbing against the walls of the pipes cause a gurgling sound. Clicks are also a sign of clogging of the pipeline. This phenomenon is eliminated by complete flushing of the system with preliminary draining of the old coolant;
4. If the valve is installed in the opposite direction, then the pipes in a private or apartment building will also crack and click. Elimination - correct installation or replacement of fittings;
5. A tightly closed ball valve can also make noise. The elimination of such noises or murmurs is carried out by weakening the stem;
6. In addition, faucets with thermostats make noise and pipes hum if the set temperature coincides with the actual temperature in the room. You can get rid of unpleasant sounds by turning the thermal head towards the asterisk;
7. The murmur and whistle in the line are caused by the accumulation of air in the heating system of the house. Noises are usually accompanied by cooling of the radiators, since the air blocks the movement of the coolant through the pipes, and the heat is distributed unevenly throughout the premises;

Important: When choosing new valves, please note that ball valves last longer and can be inserted into the system in any direction. Ball valves are also clogged much less often than screw ones.

Air pockets always stop at the top of the system, so automatic air collectors, bleed valves or vents should be installed at these points. The last radiators in the scheme should be equipped with a Mayevsky crane. If you figured out why the water is gurgling, and these are air jams in the system, then you need to bleed the air from the batteries. You should start with the coldest radiator.

1. Knocking and rattling: the main riser can be filled with sounds due to poor pipe or battery fastenings. Even a slight acceleration of the coolant causes the radiator to knock against the wall, brackets to rattle against the radiator, and other noises. In addition, even the chimney will make noise if the heating pipes run close to the metal chimney. Such noises in the heating of an apartment or private house are eliminated by installing rubber or silicone gaskets between adjacent vibrating surfaces of devices and appliances;
2. Closely spaced or intersecting pipes may also rattle or rattle. The source of noise must be soundproofed or the installation scheme must be redone;

Recommendations for preventing extraneous noises and sounds

In order to avoid buzzing in the car or in the house, it is necessary to follow certain rules and advice from specialists that follow from the practice of installation and operation heating appliances and devices:

1. When welding polypropylene (PVC) pipes with a soldering iron, it is necessary to maintain the exact heating time of the elements to be joined, because due to the excess of the heating temperature, the working clearance inside the pipe decreases, and due to underheating of the parts, the reliability of the seam decreases and the possibility of cracks increases;
2. The pipes of the heating circuit located close to each other should be wrapped in several (at least one layer) layers of heat and sound insulation;
3. When welding a metal heating circuit, it is necessary to use only high-quality electrodes of the required brand;
4. All upper points of the heating circuit and all heating devices (especially the last radiators in the circuit) must be equipped with Mayevsky taps, through which air is released from the system;
5. Shut-off valves, taps, valves and coarse and fine filters are recommended to be inserted into pipes in the corresponding direction of movement of the working fluid, indicated by an arrow on the device;
6. The power of the circulation pump must be calculated in advance in accordance with the heating wiring diagram and the equipment in use;
7. Batteries, registers or radiators must be mounted on the walls only horizontally (checked by level) in order to prevent air pockets from appearing in the case;
8. During soldering or welding, it is necessary to ensure that scale, metal splashes, plastic drops do not get into the pipeline - such a blockage will lead to pipe noise and fill the riser with sounds of unknown origin;
9. What to do so that the running circulation pump does not make noise or makes noise as quietly as possible? The unit is installed on vibration inserts (rubber or silicone washers, pads) and the pump housing is closed with a soundproof casing;
10. An autonomous heating system with several pumps (circulating, supplying, pumping out) requires a more complete minimization of system noise with the devices turned on. There is a simple rule for this - all pumps must operate in a strictly calculated mode and not exceed the performance allowable loads. If the pump, after turning on, starts making noise for a short time, and then the noise stops, this does not mean that everything is in order - check the operating mode of the unit and move it to the optimal position;
11. Try to install only high-quality elements, parts, assemblies, plumbing fixtures, fittings and fittings, use high-quality auxiliary materials - gaskets, seals, hardware, which will help reduce the noise level or their occurrence;
12. It is recommended to flush the pipes of the system before and at the end of the heating season - this measure will prevent the appearance of salt mineral deposits on the walls of the pipeline.

findings

All of the noises listed above and how to prevent and eliminate them are aimed at optimizing the problem if pipes or heating equipment they start making noise. The first important step in troubleshooting the problem is locating the source of extraneous sound. The second step is to estimate the scope of work and the required amount of materials. The third stage is the assessment of the possibility self repair or eliminate noise in other ways, or determine the need to call specialists. A situation may also arise in which it is possible to hold out with noise until the end of the heating season, which will facilitate the work to eliminate them when the boiler is turned off.

In a high-rise building, the utility service should solve such issues, but it is better to control their work. By identifying the source of noise in the pipeline in a timely manner, you will save not only money and expensive equipment, but also your health.