How to sheathe a wooden house with metal siding. Sheathing a house with metal siding with your own hands: a guide. Installation of metal siding consists of several stages

Siding is a modern material for exterior wall cladding of houses. It performs two functions - utilitarian and aesthetic. Siding protects buildings well from the effects of natural factors - rain, snow, sun, wind, and also serves as an excellent decor for house facades. Today it is one of the most popular materials for sheathing in the construction market.

About siding in general

Siding has many benefits in front of other types of cladding - plaster, stone, clapboard. It is durable, resistant to adverse weather conditions and moderate physical impact, does not corrode and rot. Non-flammable, environmentally friendly, non-toxic. Such sheathing does not close the walls tightly and allows them to "breathe". In addition, between the frame rails, you can lay thermal insulation material, which will insulate the building and reduce the cost of heating the house in the cold season.

Material It is light in weight and easy to transport. Its installation is very simple, only the presence of a tool and minimal skills is required. It is easy to operate, does not require updates and painting, retains its original shape and color for a long time. When dirty, you can simply rinse the walls with water from a hose. A wide range of types, colors and textures allows everyone to choose the cladding for the house to their taste and budget.

According to the material of manufacture, siding is divided into several species:

  • wooden;
  • vinyl;
  • metal;
  • cement;
  • ceramic.

Each of them has its own benefits, shortcomings and priority areas of application, you should select the most suitable option for every case. Below in the article we will consider metal siding - its subspecies, qualities, features of installation and operation.

The main characteristics of metal siding

Metal siding is the most practical of all types of this facing material. It is most often used for cladding the facades of public, industrial and commercial buildings, it is also used for cladding private houses, summer cottages, cottages. Its technical characteristics meet rather high requirements. It is inexpensive and lasts a very long time, protecting buildings well from adverse weather conditions. easy to install. It consists of single panels, which are tightly connected to each other using special connectors. Such a lining is fixed on a galvanized crate. The outer side of the panels has a decorative coating. Their three main types are the "ship board", "M" and "W".

Panels siding, made of metal, are sold in different sizes. The most common dimensions are:

  • length - from 2 to 6 meters;
  • width - 120, 200, 225, 300, 325, 550 millimeters;
  • metal thickness - 0.5 mm.

Wide range matte and shiny colors of metal siding allows you to realize any design solution. It is resistant to fading, which makes it possible to use not only pastel colors for facade cladding, but also bright juicy colors. Most used colors- it is white, gray, beige, yellow, brown, blue, red, green of all shades. Also popular is the coating made under stone, wood, brick.

Thanks to their technical characteristics metal siding does not require special operating conditions. To protect the material from dents and scratches, you can make a low fence around the building. To drain water flowing from the roof from the facade, it is necessary to install drainage system. If scratches still appear on the coating, you can pick up a spray can with the appropriate paint color and blow out the damaged area with it. For cleaning surfaces from pollution will require only ordinary water. Guarantee period operation of metal siding - about 35 years, and if you follow the above recommendations, it will last even longer.

Varieties of metal siding

classify on several factors. One of them is the material of manufacture - aluminum or steel, occasionally copper. Aluminum siding sheathe residential premises, office and industrial building. It is lightweight and has an elegant look. In strength, it is slightly inferior to steel, which is more impact resistant. siding out become expensive. They carry out the decoration of industrial and public buildings. Copper siding is used less often. It is expensive, but very beautiful in appearance. Provides excellent ventilation of the house.

According to designs siding is divided into the following types:

  • Basement. It looks like rectangular panels. The colors are dark, non-staining, the texture is like a stone or brick. Moisture resistant.
  • Front. It is used for facing directly the facades themselves. It has wide range of colors and textures of natural or artificial materials. Types of forms - "ship board", "M" and "W".
  • Ceiling. Designed for covering ceilings in closed or open spaces and structures - garages, terraces, gazebos.
  • Insulated. It has a complex structure of several layers - 1 or 2 layers of thermal insulation, a metal bearing base, a decorative coating. It is used for additional insulation of the house.

According to the method of installation, the cladding is horizontal and vertical, differs from each other docking lock.

Types of textures are also different - the usual smooth, wood or stone. Simple siding can be glossy or matte, made to look like artificial and natural stones like marble, brick, granite and others. Siding with wooden texture happens under a bar, a log, a block house.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal siding

Siding has mass positive qualities. It is inexpensive compared to many other cladding options. Thermal, moisture and fire resistant, durable, non-fading in the sun, environmentally friendly, durable material. The panels are easy to install, while hiding the irregularities on the walls and communications. The construction market has huge selection textures and colors, thanks to which it can be used to beautifully and accurately decorate the facade of the building.

disadvantages cover has little. It costs a little more than vinyl siding. From a blow, for example, with a pebble, the polymer coating and galvanization can be damaged, and rust will appear in this place after a while.

Calculation of the required amount of material

Before buying metal siding for house cladding, you need to calculate the required amount of material and additional elements which are required for this. Initially, it is better to make a schematic drawing of each of the walls of the building, marking all the dimensions on it. Then it's better to break the surface into geometric figures, calculate the area of ​​each of them and calculate the total amount. Then you need to subtract the area of ​​​​all door and window openings. This will be the required area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe material. Via drawing it will also be possible to distribute the use of scraps.

It is also necessary to calculate the number of metal profiles and screws. The number of finishing strips (edging rails, outside corners, starting lanes). For this, it is calculated perimeter at home, the length of gables and cornices, the perimeter of windows and doors are measured, the length of external and internal corners is summed up.

More material and accessories should be purchased to prevent force majeure situations.

After the required amount of metal siding and additional elements has been calculated, and all materials have been purchased, it is necessary to prepare instruments for work:

  • roulette;
  • metal ruler and square;
  • electric jigsaw or hacksaw for cutting metal;
  • metal scissors;
  • cutter;
  • screwdriver or screwdriver;
  • a hammer;
  • pliers;
  • level;
  • plumb;
  • carpenter's pencil;
  • chalk and twine.

When all the tools are at hand, you can proceed to preparatory work. To begin with, scaffolding is established. Then the walls are cleared of interfering tree branches and climbing plants. It is necessary to remove the lanterns, drainpipes, shutters, external window sills, corner boards, slats between walls and foundation. If mold is found on the walls, it must be removed and the surface treated with an antiseptic. The distortion of window and door frames should be eliminated.

Sheathing the house with siding is performed not only to protect the facade, but to a greater extent, to give the outer walls a beautiful appearance. But achieving this goal depends on two variables.

First, from the choice of facing material. Since it is assumed that a house sheathed with siding will stand for 50 years, you need to carefully analyze everything available materials and choose the one that is right for you. Secondly, on the quality of siding installation.

Many are hired to carry out installation work specialists. However, there are those who choose metal siding, and prefer to carry out the installation themselves.

This material is intended for those who first encountered the installation of siding. But for those who have already had to install vinyl siding, it will be useful to get acquainted with some of the nuances of fixing metal siding.

Do-it-yourself metal siding installation - instructions

materials

  • siding strips;
  • additional elements;

Advice. If you make items to order, make sure that they have rolling. This will make the bar more rigid and less traumatic.

  • hardware;

Good to know. Self-tapping screws can be replaced with nails. However, the nails should not be iron, but galvanized. A galvanized self-tapping screw with a sealing gasket is used only if it is necessary to fasten the siding sheets through and through. Rubber compressor, which is equipped with a self-tapping screw, does not allow moisture to enter the cut point. The color of the self-tapping screw can be chosen according to the color of the front cover.

  • dye. Useful in case of damage to the front cover.

Good to know. Not every paint is suitable for covering metal siding. It is better to purchase it together with siding. As a rule, repair paint is sold in 100 gr, 200 gr, and liter containers. Designed for painting over minor scratches or cuts. Apply with a match or cotton swab. The advantage of a special paint is that it lies on galvanization (zinc is under the front and primer layer of metal siding), and also has increased resistance to ultraviolet.

Metal siding preparation

The initial stage of installation steel siding, or rather, the key to a quality result is the correct cutting of the material (sheets, strips, elements). This approach will allow you to spend it more economically, as well as avoid mistakes when laying out siding panels.

If there is a film on the metal, it should be removed before installation.

Advice. The film on the siding panel is "baked" to the coating under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Removing it afterwards is quite problematic.

Mounting tools

Before starting work, you need to prepare, in addition to the material, the tools that you will need for installation.

  • scissors for metal or a saw for metal;

Tip: the grinder is not used for cutting siding sheets, because. this can lead to damage to the front protective coating and accelerate the development of metal corrosion. As a rule, this nuance is indicated in the warranty for metal siding from the manufacturer.

  • perforator. For making additional mounting holes in metal;
  • punch. Device for punching holes. He cuts the metal and bends it slightly to one side;
  • a screwdriver, if you will fasten the strips with self-tapping screws;
  • a hammer if you plan to nail the strips;
  • rivet gun. If you plan to use rivets when fastening simple outer corners;
  • nozzle on a drill for tightening self-tapping screws with a sealant;

Advice. Both self-tapping screws and nails are quite suitable for fastening sheets. But staples are not recommended.

  • roulette;

Advice. Try to use a tape measure with a fabric strip because the metal one can accidentally damage the siding panel. This will lead to rust.

  • building level. It is advisable to use a long level or a laser level. It is more convenient to work with them.
  • plumb;
  • square;
  • protective glasses;
  • construction gloves. When working with metal, there is a high probability of injury, so gloves will protect you from this trouble.

Advice. When installing metal siding, do not use a corner grinder. The benefit from it is negligible, and damage to the front cover will have to be restored with paint.

Installation technology of metal siding "Ship Board"

Step-by-step instructions for the installation of individual elements of metal siding involve a phased implementation from A to Z.

Installation is done in this order:

  1. start line;
  2. complex internal and external corners, as well as a complex H-connector bar;
  3. installation of ordinary strips;
  4. installation of simple corners and H-connector.
  5. soffit installation.

Now let's look at each stage in more detail.

It should be noted that the installation of metal siding, like vinyl siding, occurs from the bottom up.

1. Installation of the starting siding strip

When starting the installation of the starting profile (strip), you need to determine the place where it should be fixed. To do this, it is enough to determine the lowest point of the house in relation to the horizon. Next, using the building level, draw a straight line at a height of 30-40 mm from the selected point.

Good to know. The height is determined by the width of the starting bar.

Next, along this line, mount the starting profile. If you are installing siding over a plinth, then a spillway may be required. It is made to order, according to your sketch and dimensions. And the principle of installation is shown in the photo.

There is no need to leave a gap between the planks as when installing vinyl. Since the linear coefficient of thermal expansion of the metal is 10 times lower than that of the polymer. This means that at the same temperature, the metal will expand 10 times less.

Therefore, the gaps during the installation of metal siding are needed more for the convenience of work, so as not to scratch the metal and cut your hands.

For metal, it is 1.9x10 -5 / o C, and for polyvinyl chloride (50) 10 -6 / °C.

The starting bar is attached in increments of 300-400 mm.

2. Installation of difficult internal and external corners, as well as a complex H-connector bar

If you prefer to use complex additional elements for metal siding, then they should be installed after the starting bar. The step of fastening screws or nails is 200-300 mm. This is due to the fact that the parts have a rather complex structure (geometry) and more frequent drilling of self-tapping screws will help ensure their secure fastening.

Good to know. Corner dimensions may vary depending on manufacturers.

The installation process of the H-connector and complex corners is shown in the figure

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Advice. As a rule, when installing metal siding, simple corners are used, because. they are much cheaper, easier to install, easy to replace if necessary.

Door and window openings are also framed at this stage. For this, a slope bar or a platband and a low tide bar are used.

The width of the platband depends on the depth of the opening and the thickness of the batten under the siding. The tide bar is mounted at the bottom of the window opening.

Try to mount all the planks at the same level, this will give beautiful view facade of the house.

Good to know. To lengthen the bar, it is enough to lay the top on the bottom with an overlap of 25 mm.

3. Installation of ordinary strips of metal siding

Installation of ordinary strips of metal siding is identical to the installation of vinyl panels. If there are complex corners, the bar is inserted between them and fixed on the starting bar with self-tapping screws. The rest of the strips are mounted in the same way. Mounting step 200-300 mm.

Advice. The next row of panels is installed on the previous one until the locks click with an interference fit. If necessary, the lower part of the strip can be knocked up with a mallet.

It is better to fasten the hardware also in the middle of the nail hole.

The strips are joined using a complex H-connector or a simple flashing.
If you do not plan to use an H-connector and a flashing, you can mount the strips of material overlapping. It is important to cut off the lock from one panel to ensure a reliable connection.

The overlap must be at least 25 mm to prevent the ingress of dirt and moisture.

Helpful advice. Constantly check the horizontal position of the installed planks using building level. It is optimal to do this every third row.

If you did not set complex angles, then the panels are mounted on the starting strip. And the strip is cut off the same length as the width of the frame for metal siding. As a result, in the place of the corner joints, you will get butt slots, which will then be closed using simple corners.

The last board is fastened as follows: the penultimate row of panels is mounted, then the finishing bar. Then the remaining strip is cut to the desired length, hung on the lock until it clicks and led into the bend of the finishing bar.

4. Installation of simple corners and H-connector

Simple additional elements are mounted directly on the front side of the metal siding.

The installation of a simple outer corner is shown in the figure.

Advice. Unlike vinyl siding, metal siding can be custom-made. The only limitation is the length. All of them are a maximum of two meters, this limitation is imposed by a bending machine. But you can make them in any configuration. The main thing is that the total width of all sides of the bar does not exceed 1250 mm (the width of the metal sheet). Or 2000, but then the bar length will be 1250 mm.

For fastening simple additional elements, galvanized self-tapping screws with a sealant are used. They are drilled through metal, so it is better to choose screws in color front side panels.

Advice. Self-tapping screws are easy to unscrew, so blind rivets can be used. In this case, the rivet does not penetrate the metal, but is attached to a pre-drilled hole. Its diameter should be 0.1 mm larger than the diameter of the rivet. The rivet length recommended by professionals is 6 mm.

The step of fastening the hardware into the corner depends on its width, but the corner is mounted on each side and always in a checkerboard pattern.

For example, if the bar is 500x500 mm wide, then the fastening step should be 500 mm. And if the bar is 700x700 mm wide, then the fasteners must be mounted every 400 mm. The wider the bar, the heavier it is, the more often it needs to be fixed.

5. Installation of metal siding soffit

Soffit is usually mounted on horizontal surfaces facing down - overhangs, cornices, gables.

The installation process is shown in the photo (2 options).

Types of connections are shown in the figure.

A novelty on the market is metal siding imitating timber, logs and block house.


The device of corners is similar to the arrangement of corners for metal siding shipboard.


Corners are mounted in the same way as the two previous cases.

For these two types of siding, both horizontal and vertical fastening is appropriate.

Installation of metal siding - video

Conclusion

We hope that from the instructions given here you have received comprehensive answers to the question of how to mount metal siding with your own hands. Happy installation!

To finish the facade of the house, metal siding is increasingly used. It consists of sheets of iron with a thickness of 0.5 mm and a length of 0.5 to 6 meters, of various shapes with a polymer coating. Sheets can also be made of aluminum, but they have not found such popularity due to insufficient strength.

Siding is available in several forms: a single board, shipboard or Christmas tree board, as well as in the form of a log (block house). Panels can have both a smooth surface, and structural (under a tree). Various prints can also be applied to the metal siding, which will turn the panel into a real tree with knots or natural stone.

Like all types of siding, metal siding comes with various decorative elements. They, in combination with the main panels, will give the building a beautiful and finished look.

You can mount metal sidig with your own hands at any time of the year, unlike vinyl or plastic when low temperatures it doesn't crack or break. Almost does not change color (does not fade in the sun).

Required Tools

To finish the house with metal siding with your own hands, you must have a set of the following tools:

Tape measure - for accurate measurement of panels and additional elements

Square and marker - for obtaining and marking a clear right angle

Hacksaw and shears for metal - for cutting siding and getting an even cut

Building level - to comply with the vertical when installing the crate and horizontal when installing the siding

Perforator - in the case of concrete walls for drilling holes

Screwdriver - for fastening the siding to the crate with self-tapping screws.

Lathing installation

The most important and difficult stage in decorating a house with siding with your own hands is the installation of the crate. How well it will be done, how much easier and more correct the process of installing siding will be.

Marking the wall for brackets.

The crate is carried out strictly vertically from wooden bars or metal profiles. In terms of durability, of course, a galvanized metal profile has an advantage. It has an L-shape and is attached to the wall with adjustable brackets. It is not recommended to use a profile designed for drywall installation, as it is too thin and may not withstand the load from metal siding. Before mounting the brackets, markings are made on the wall, and holes of the required diameter are drilled for dowels or anchor bolts. Brackets have different lengths and are installed based on the unevenness of the wall.

For additional insulation of the walls of the house, a heater is laid between the crate, which is attached to the wall with plastic fungi and closed with a vapor barrier.

Siding installation

After mounting the battens, they begin to install decorative elements: corners, ebbs and slope strips. To accurately install these elements with your own hands, you must use the building level.

Having retreated from the ebb about a centimeter, the initial bar is mounted, to which the lower part of the panel is attached, and the top is fastened with a self-tapping screw with a press washer to the crate. The self-tapping screw is not screwed tightly, but a small gap of 1 mm is left for possible thermal expansions of the metal. Sheathing the house with siding with your own hands is done from the bottom up. Further, the panels are attached in the same way to each other and the crate to the very top. Every 2-3 rows, the horizontal position of the panels is periodically checked. joint last row siding adjacent to the roof is closed with a special decorative element. Regardless of the shape of the panel, the siding installation process is always the same.

Do-it-yourself metal siding installation is not at all a difficult task and will bring a lot of positive emotions from the work done.

After the installation of the main siding panels, the final finishing of the window and door openings with decorative elements is carried out.

Worth remembering!!! Metal siding should not be cut with a grinder, because when heated, the protective painted layer burns out and the siding begins to rust in this place.

Metal siding installation video

In order not to cut the siding panels once again, they can be ordered at the factory of the required size. And here decorative elements Unfortunately, they are available in a certain size.

A house sheathed with metal siding with your own hands looks no worse than a house trimmed with natural materials, and in terms of service life it will give them a tangible head start.

The service life of metal siding according to manufacturers is at least 50 years.

Metal siding is a common cladding for wooden houses seasonal residence or other buildings. It is notable for its low cost, ease and speed of installation, as it has big sizes, more than other types protects private buildings from exposure external factors. However, it has its own nuances, so the finish wooden house metal siding should be carried out strictly according to the instructions.

Disadvantages of profiled sheets and individual slats

The advantages have already been said - low price, home protection. However, they should not mislead the owners regarding the ideality of the material - the disadvantages of such a cladding are significant. More:

  1. Susceptibility to corrosion. Metal and moisture are not the best neighbors. Siding from it is sold treated with mastics or other compounds to prevent rust stains. However, during installation, you will need to cut it to the desired dimensions and the edge will be bare. Owners should keep in mind that cutting the cut yourself is extremely important.
  2. Cold lining. Finishing a wooden house with metal siding is necessarily accompanied by insulation, since the material itself is not able to retain heat. In addition, there must be a layer between wood and iron, otherwise the temperature difference will necessarily lead to the formation of condensate, and then the house runs the risk of starting to rot.
  3. Bad soundproofing. Even if modern mattresses are laid under the lining, then the cannonade at night from the weather is guaranteed.

But imitations of profiled sheets and metal siding with planks still make this type of sheathing popular. It is not difficult to make your own object under a brick, ship timber or another kind. Finishing the house with metal siding under a log of valuable species is in great demand.

Instructions for sheathing a wooden house with metal siding

To do quality work, you should start with right choice products and subsequent surface preparation. So:

  • Choice quality goods depends on the integrity of the manufacturer and his time in the construction market. If you have to buy goods in an unfamiliar network, then you should pay attention to the color of the raw materials - metal siding for finishing a wooden house should be without visible streaks and a fine grid of cracks. Their presence indicates a poor-quality coating, which will peel off from the profiled sheet over time.

Technological openings should be oval. This is compensation for deformation of the siding during the temperature difference in the off-season. If you screw the sheets tightly, then when bent, they can bend or lead, which will affect the level of the entire skin.

To work on the entire surface of the house, not only sheets or planks are purchased, but also a starting profile, corners - external and external, platbands, connections. It is also worth checking each element for the functioning of the lock mates - they should easily snap into place.

  • Next, prepare the walls. This means cleaning from the surface from protruding parts - trim, thresholds, window sills. Dirt, rubbish is also swept out, caulking is changing.

Immediately you need to soak all the wood with all kinds of caulks - more of this possibility is not expected. By the way, if the percentage of damage is significant, then you will have to not only work with the compositions, but cut out rotten pieces of logs.

In advanced cases, whole whips are changed. Otherwise, finishing a wooden house with metal siding will be a waste of time - damage in the form of wet rot and mold will pass to the sheet, and then corrosion is within easy reach.

  • The next step is the preparation of the crate. For all types of siding - from wooden lining to fiber cement panels, one rule works - they install profiles for attaching planks strictly perpendicular to the sheathing itself. That is, if it is decided to lay the siding horizontally, then the crate has only vertical guides and vice versa.

What is the point? The wood of the house should be well ventilated, which the cladding does not contribute at all. Therefore, the creation of as many air channels as possible is by no means a whim, but a necessity - vertical or horizontal gaps will perform this task perfectly.

metal profile or wooden beam for the crate should be wide. The calculation is simple - the thickness of the insulation + 1.5 cm free space. The fastening step is 50-60 cm, that is, the standard styrene plate will enter the crate sector tightly and without gaps.

  • The choice of insulation. Finishing houses outside with metal siding is not complete without insulation. Firstly, an old log, not to mention a beam, does not hold heat well.

Secondly, the metal should not be a cold bridge for the house, and, as mentioned above, serve as a platform for condensate due to temperature differences. Today, styrene boards are recognized as the best among heaters - polyurethane, polystyrene foam, penofol. Cotton mats are hygroscopic - the sheathing must have complete tightness so that moisture does not seep in and does not cause the material to cake. Then there can be no question of warming.

  • After the slabs or mats are laid, proceed to attach the waterproofing. In this capacity, rolled rubber, polymer film or other materials that can even trap vapors are good. Waterproofing is fixed with a furniture stapler.
  • Now you can start lining. Horizontal or vertical finishing with metal siding of houses begins with the installation of the starting bar. The position of the entire canvas depends on it, which means that you should act strictly according to the level.

Fastening the bar, in fact, like all siding, should not be tightly, keeping in mind that compensation gaps are needed. Without bringing the screws to the end by 1-2 mm, you can complete this task.

The bar is fixed with a groove down, this will save the siding from accidental raindrops and stagnation there. Further, the work will go on knurled: the next sheet is inserted into the bar and fastened in a similar way.

  • The corners, especially if the house is chopped into a bowl, that is, with the remainder, are lined in the same way as other surfaces, you just have to pay special attention to their insulation. You can’t leave them outside, they already take on the cold of the Russian winter.
There is a special corner siding on sale, it will neatly close the protrusions from the common box. After complete installation, slopes, ebbs and other fittings are attached.
  • Beautiful decoration of the facade of the house with metal siding is achieved by selecting contrasting elements. If you make slopes, ebbs, window sills of a different color than the general background, then the object will not look gray and dull, but with a claim to presentability. By the way, the general background should be light - this is taken into account when purchasing - the sun's rays will affect the color and over time it will begin to fade.

Objects with imitations of timber, stone, brick and other decorations will also look unusual. Finishing a house with metal siding under a log is the most popular.

Siding is very known material for sheathing. This is due to the favorable ratio of its price and quality. In addition, it is not difficult to veneer an object with metal siding yourself. It is only necessary to clearly calculate the dimensions and the total V- of the desired panels, and also do everything exactly according to the instructions. The house can also be sheathed with vinyl siding, as discussed in another article.

Contents of the article about sheathing and finishing the house with metal siding

Manufacturers and price of metal siding

Before starting work on the installation of siding with your own hands - finishing the facade with metal siding, let's get acquainted with the manufacturers and the price of the material in cities such as Moscow, Novosibirsk, Yekaterinburg, Ufa, Krasnoyarsk, Omsk, Perm, etc.

Metal siding under a log, Block House

Log (block house) is modern material for exterior finish buildings. The material is made of cold-rolled galvanized steel, thanks to which the metal siding on the log imitates the construction of a house from wooden logs. The thickness of the metal used is 0.40-0.45 mm, the mounting width is 335 mm, the overall width is 361 mm, the length is 0.50-6 m.

The price of metal siding "ship board" and "block house"

Type of metal siding Supplier company City Price, rub./m2
Siding "Shipboard" AVER Barnaul 260
SeverSnab Yekaterinburg 250
Siberian Roof Plant Novosibirsk 245
Alfacom Barnaul 260
Mitlex Lipetsk 320
Special installation Ufa 230
SOCROFF Ivanovo 300
TD Uralsky Supplier Yekaterinburg 240
Avento Ufa 215
metal siding under the log Block House Siberian Roof Plant Novosibirsk 370
Special installation Ufa 250
Constructive decisions Ufa 340
thymal Ufa 330
Roof-PROF Chelyabinsk 430
TD Uralsky Supplier Yekaterinburg 390
TSK ARCHITEK Kazan 380

Sheathing a house with metal siding: preparing tools

You will need:

- stairs or scaffolding.

- level;

- nails or screws;

- scissors for cutting metal;

- perforator;

- pliers;

- roulette;

- a hammer;

Do-it-yourself metal siding installation

Preparatory work

1. Choose a material. Facing with siding helps to make the house a well-groomed and aesthetic appearance. Still, the material itself does not need careful maintenance. This is one of its great virtues. Metal siding has a long service life, as well as sudden changes in temperature, protects the facade from mechanical damage and bad weather conditions. It is also very important that thanks to the installation of panels, you can insulate the house and improve sound insulation without much loss of internal volume.

2. We get acquainted with the instructions on the package. Sheets of metal siding have special fasteners for attaching to each other. As a result, the heads of screws and nails are hidden from the outside observer, giving aesthetics to the facade. In order to veneer the object with metal siding yourself, follow the instructions given by the manufacturer. So you will save yourself from mistakes, moreover, the sheets of this book often give ways to lay sheets in heavy structural units.

example of fastening siding to metal profiles

3. Remove surface defects. look around appearance at home and remove or remove any items that may prevent full operation. This is a fauna with a climbing stem, branches of bushes growing too close to the walls, etc. In addition, water drains, pipes, external window sills, skylights, and other special or decorative protruding items must be removed. If the facade is wooden, look for loose or rotten boards. If yes, then these shortcomings need to be removed.

the walls of such a wooden house need to be treated with an antiseptic and painted

4. We mount the crate, lay the cells with an antiseptic. Look at the cladding plane for curvature. If it is, fix it, otherwise the same irregularities will be on the finished facade. Mount the crate from narrow wooden slats. Lay the space inside the cells with an antiseptic to prevent mold and rust, rotting, and also to secure the deformation of the siding sheets. Instead of an antiseptic composition, it is possible to lay insulating material, this will improve the thermal insulation of the house.

Installation of metal siding

Consider the classic option for laying siding, but more popular is the installation of siding with insulation.

5. We proceed to the installation of the bottom row.

First you need to mount the metal siding from the bottom edge. Attach launch pads around the entire circumference of the house. Attach them by screwing in screws or driving nails into the center of the oblong hole that is made for this. If there are not enough of them, then drill new ones with a puncher. Having completed the entire bottom row, go to the second, and so on.

6. Attach the panel. To begin with, insert each sheet into the panel of the row laid before. For this, a special lock design was made. As soon as you hear a characteristic click, the panels are firmly connected, you can connect. The principle of mounting metal siding panels is made in such a way that there are no fasteners on the visible surface. This is due to the fact that the nails are not driven into the panel itself, but into the lower (horizontal siding) or side (vertical siding) strip. When driving in nails, do not pull the panel and do not press it against the wall too hard, otherwise it will lose its own shape. But she shouldn't be shaky either. This is the hardest part of the installation.

fixing siding with screws

7. We drive in nails. The non-circular shape of the holes allows the panels to move during the acclimatization of temperatures, when the material contracts or expands. For the same purpose, leave a small space between the nail head and the plane, about 1-2 millimeters. If for some reason you are doing the installation in the frozen season, then make the gap even larger.
8. We work with panels correctly. Cut the panels with a fine-toothed saw or a metal cutter. In the future, when returning to the metal cladding of previously removed objects, drill holes in the panels of a significant diameter by 3-5 millimeters than necessary.

example of a saw with thin teeth

9. We mount metal siding at the corners. At the corners of the house, attach the ends of the panels using special outer corners. around the perimeter doorways, window frames and use J-Strips for the top edge. They got their name from this large letter of the Latin alphabet because of their shape, which allows you to make a neat edging.

If you decide to sheathe an old house, do not waste time choosing a material, use metal siding.