Laying electricians in the apartment with your own hands. How to replace the wiring in the apartment with your own hands. Is it possible to make backup power in the apartment

08.07.2020

A modern apartment cannot be imagined without good wiring. But even where it has already been carried out, it needs to be changed from time to time. Do-it-yourself wiring in an apartment is difficult, but possible. And we will tell you how to carry out all the work.

We design electrical wiring in the apartment

Do-it-yourself wiring in an apartment begins with drawing up a plan, as in any other construction industry. Only then can you move on to practical work installation of cables, sockets, switches. When drawing up a plan, you need to draw a drawing of the house (carry out design), be sure to indicate the connection points for sockets and switches, household appliances. To carry out these works with the highest quality, break the stages into groups (for example, connecting sockets and lighting lamps is carried out separately).

Pay special attention to the bathroom, as this room is characterized by a high level of humidity, which means that the requirements for wiring are more stringent. So, if it is desirable to make an RCD (device protective shutdown). The principle is simple - during a current leakage, the entire room is de-energized. You also need to choose the right machine for the apartment - a circuit breaker.

for sockets, it is more desirable to purchase an automatic machine with a rated current of 16 A;
for lighting - at least 10 A.

Now we will tell you how to lay the wiring in the apartment yourself. The main thing is that you carefully study our recommendations, without deviating from them a single step.

How to conduct wiring in an apartment - installation methods

Wiring can be carried out in two ways - closed and open wiring. Each of the options needs to be considered in more detail in order to understand the differences between them.

Open wiring. Passes in pipes and skirting boards. The height of the gasket in this case is not standardized. Lighting and power wires must not be laid together during installation. In this case, it is best to purchase safe skirting boards made of fireproof material.
. This type of wiring is carried out inside walls and partitions, in suspended ceilings. In this case, it is preferable to use cables that must be durable, protected from damage, moisture and burning.

Also, don't buy cheaper ones. steel pipes for laying cables.

Installation of wiring in the apartment - what you need to remember?

Before connecting the electrical wiring in the apartment, you need to take several important preparatory steps. So, we have already talked about the design and drawing of the circuit - a very important step on which the quality of installation depends. The next step is the implementation of the markup in the wiring diagram, along which the wires will be laid and a temporary shield installed.

It is desirable to start work with laying the main bundle of cables, their branches and indicating their turns. Do not forget that the cable arrangement must be vertical or horizontal.. After finishing, draw a diagram that you will need when carrying out the main work. After that, we need to purchase tools and other construction devices (we choose them based on the material of the walls and other surfaces):

grinder for working with concrete and brick surfaces;
mounting chisel - suitable for working with foam blocks and plaster.

This tool will be needed to create recesses in walls and other surfaces when laying wires. Next, we proceed to the preparation of electrical wiring - cutting cables. When cutting them to the required length, do not forget to leave about 15 cm of cable in reserve for connecting the cables to each other. Next, you need to prepare a mixture for embedding, which in its characteristics will be similar to that applied to the walls for decoration. It is needed to secure the wires in the strobe and level the surface. Having prepared the solution, we apply it on the walls and wait until the mixture dries a little, after which we level the irregularities using a foam grater.

Step by step we lay the wiring in the apartment

Having finished the design, we proceed to the wiring in the apartment. But first of all, it is necessary to provide power to the working tool. To do this, we attach a socket and a 16 A machine to a piece of plastic, not forgetting to purchase a long extension cord, which is enough for the whole apartment.

The next step is to de-energize the house by cutting down the apartment machine, remove the wires coming out from the meter and connect the temporary hut. After powering the house, you can start work.

Important: in order to lay electrical wiring in the apartment, it is advisable to use the help of an electrician, or you need to act extremely carefully.

How to lay wiring in an apartment - a step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Chasing and installing socket boxes

The strobes for laying cables, as we have already said, must be either vertical or horizontal. Crooked strobes lead to emergencies and injuries. To carry out work, it is advisable to use a stepladder with an emphasis, which will protect you from falling and injury. We first mark the boundaries of the strobe with a grinder, and then we knock out the groove with a chisel, and do not forget to knock out places for installing socket boxes. It should be noted that this stage is characterized by loud noise, and therefore it is better to talk to the neighbors in advance so that they do not complain about you. It is also worth remembering that any such work is carried out only on weekdays during work time.

Step 2: Cabling

To lay the cables, first we measure the pieces of wire and corrugation required along the length - we tighten the cable into the corrugation on a flat surface. After that, we put them in strobes and put the ends of the cable into the socket. After this step, be sure to grease the sockets with the prepared mixture or alabaster, and coat the strobes in small parts every 50 cm. To complete this stage, we will see the ends of the corrugations in the inlet shield, lubricate with the mixture and do not forget to connect the wires to the shield terminal. After that, we install the VSC in its place, drill holes for fasteners and install dowels in the holes. After fixing the input shield, we carefully isolate all the wires and lay them inside the VSC.

Step 3: Finishing

The next step is surface finishing. But before you start plastering the walls, you need to fill the sockets with paper, and cover the temporary shield with plastic wrap. In order not to accidentally break the seal from the meter, we also cover it in order to avoid problems with energy service specialists. Now you know how the wiring is done in the apartment. But this is not the end of the work - you need to connect the remaining elements of the network. Let's get started!

Installation of electrical wiring in the apartment includes the installation of sockets and switches. There are several rules, the observance of which will protect your life:

sockets should be installed at a small distance from the floor (in case of flooding of rooms, this will protect against electric shock);
do not mount sockets near sinks, gas and electric stoves, etc. (products can be mounted provided the distance between the socket and the equipment is 50 cm);
try not to install sockets in the bathroom (if necessary, install it at a minimum distance of 2.5 m from the source of moisture).

Now you can proceed with the installation of products. Before purchasing them, be sure to study quality certificates and other documents that can confirm the safety of sockets and switches. Installation of sockets can be carried out in two ways - open and hidden. In the first case, you need to use non-conductive sockets. Products are attached to surfaces with glue or self-tapping screws. If you want to make hidden wiring, you need to purchase suitable products, which are first placed in installation boxes, and then mounted in prepared holes in the partitions.

From this article you will learn:

Why you need to do your own electrical wiring in a new building
What are the requirements for electrical wiring in a new building?
What type of electrical wiring can be done in a new building
How to choose cables for electrical wiring in a new building

If you have become the proud owner of an apartment in a new building, then you will have to worry about finishing it. An important stage of repair is the installation of electrical wiring. Today it is allowed that electrical work is carried out by the owners of apartments. Some construction companies, in order to save money, allow owners to install electrical wiring on their own. We figure out how to make sure that the electrical wiring in the apartment is done with high quality, and how to do it yourself.

Why it is worth replacing the electrics in a new building

If the developer installs the electrical wiring in the apartment himself, then most likely the owner of the dwelling will redo it. After all, everyone different requirements to functionality, and everyone does as he pleases.

What problems can you encounter when the electrical wiring in a new building has already been completed?

Since automation is cheap, no one can guarantee that the network will be 100% secure.
The cable being laid does not meet quality standards, it's good if it meets the specifications. Its cross section will be insufficient, and the insulating layer will be too thin. It may happen that the inner insulating layer sticks to the outer one, and during the cutting of the cable they will be removed together.
When electrical wiring in a new building is carried out in a hidden way, the cable is extended by twisting. No one will guarantee that such wiring, hidden in a wall or floor, will last a long time and there will be no fire.
To save the cable, the lines hidden under the plaster are laid diagonally. All this leads to the fact that the cable can be pierced, for example, if the landlord wants to mount a sconce or drive a nail in this place. Routes of electrical networks must be carried out in a straight line, making turns at 90 degrees.
The height at which sockets and switches are placed will be different. When you get to your home, take a measuring tape and see for yourself.

All adjustments made to the wiring diagram (if its characteristics change) relate to the reconstruction of the home. Therefore, it will be necessary to coordinate changes in local governments. For example, permission will be needed when you want to lay a cable of a different section, replace the machine, install a new electrical distribution panel, bring another power line, and so on.

You will receive an answer only after 45 days. In this case, you may be denied reorganization. Count from the moment you provide all the required documentation. The authorized body that conducts the approval, after the decision is made, will issue (or send by mail) a supporting document within 3 days.

Based on this document, the owner of the apartment has the right to carry out the reconstruction of the home.

Now you are allowed to change the electrical wiring in the new building. But do not forget that the added power lines, as well as the new characteristics of the gasket, are noted in the technical passport of the object.

The electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building should be made of copper cable, which is covered with an insulating layer. It is forbidden to use an aluminum cable: when you turn on several powerful electrical appliances at once, it will not withstand.

The 7th edition of the PUE rules states that electrical wiring in a new building must be done using a three-core copper cable, while one of the cores provides grounding.

Grounding is of two types, the differences are the zero separation point:

TN-S system (working zero N);
TN-C-S system (protective zero PE).

A three-core cable departs from the shield in the house: phase - L, zero - N and ground - PE.

Grounding is necessary to protect residents from electric shock. In addition, if there is a ground wire, then electrical engineering will not burn out. When you do electrical wiring in a new building, do not forget about grounding. If the ground wire is connected poorly, it will break. Then, during a phase breakdown, for example, to a refrigerator, all electrical equipment in your home, which is connected to the network, will be under the strongest voltage.

How to exclude such a situation? Do not twist the wires. It is recommended to use special terminal blocks that differ in the way the cable is clamped. Or you can solder the connection by placing it in a junction box, socket box, electrical panel, that is, so that, if necessary, it is easy to get to them.

If the apartment has old type wiring - made of aluminum, it should be dismantled and made of copper. Can't install new wiring? Then use the terminal blocks to connect the copper cable to the aluminum cable.

Where are sockets and switches located?

It is forbidden to place sockets and switches anywhere. This moment is regulated by the requirements of SNiP 23-05-95.

So, the switch should be located at a distance of no more than 10 cm from the doorway (on the side where the door handle is located). At what height to install - you decide, choose the most convenient option. However, in children's organizations, the switch should be located strictly at a height of 180 cm from the floor.

According to the requirements of SNiP, if the room is not more than 6 square meters, then you can mount one outlet. However, it is forbidden to connect electrical appliances (those that consume a lot of electricity) using portable devices. Therefore, it is better to immediately mount as many sockets as to be enough to connect all electrical equipment. It is recommended to make more outlets in the kitchen area.

Sockets that will be located in rooms with high humidity, we choose special, with protection against water. They are located at a distance of at least 60 cm from sinks, bathtubs, toilet bowls. They must be connected through the RCD. Choose the location of the outlets so that it is convenient for you to use them. Distance from the floor, windows and doorways - from 10 cm, from the ceiling - 20 cm.

Branches to sockets and switches should be 50 cm away from the gas pipeline, and 4 cm from other communications.

What types of electrical wiring are

According to the requirements of SNiP, electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building is carried out horizontally or vertically. You can install wiring:

in a hidden way- if it is important for you to protect yourself and preserve the interior. The cable is laid in the floor, in the voids between concrete slabs, and also in the walls. If the wall is wooden, then the cable is laid in a special protective sleeve to reduce the risk of fire;
open way- thus, it will be easier to carry out electrical wiring in a new building. You can lay wires in channels that are mounted on the surface of the walls. The advantage of this method is that you can quickly get close to the wire to repair it. However, the interior of the home will be damaged.

You can perform electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building by combining the two methods described above. For example, the main line will be hidden in the floor or in the ceiling. In this case, the wire leading to the sockets and switches is laid in an open way. The combined method is used infrequently, usually for wiring in utility rooms.

Most often, electrical wiring in a new building is performed in a hidden way. However, it is worth considering how you will replace the cable if a breakdown occurs.

It is best to place the cable in a corrugated sleeve. So you can easily get it and replace it with a new one. In this case, the finish coating of the walls will not be damaged. The corrugated sleeve is laid in the channels, which are cut by a grinder or a wall chaser. Please note that according to SNiP it is forbidden to deform metal reinforcement when cutting channels on reinforced concrete slabs. In addition, you can not place the wire in the joints of the panel plates.

Automata for protection

When doing electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building, do not forget about circuit breakers. They are located in the distribution switchboard according to the following rules:

if the machine is 16 A, a lighting line is connected to it;
automatic machine for 20 A - outlet line;
25 A machine is designed to connect household appliances with great power. It is necessary to draw a separate line to the electrical panel.

In addition to automatic machines, an RCD should be installed on all electrics. It will trip if a 100mA current leak occurs. We connect all lines separately to the RCD, which is designed for leakage from 10 to 30 mA.

Planning electrical wiring in a new building

Do not want the network to be overloaded while using household electrical appliances? To avoid additional wall scraping, professionals advise before proceeding with installation work, develop an electrical wiring diagram in an apartment in a new building. Schematically, the wiring and connection are shown below.

The electrical wiring diagram in a new building is done as follows: first, lighting fixtures and powerful electrical engineering are marked on the drawing. Then, having calculated the approximate power, they select the wiring diagram for the conductors, determine the cable cross-section, and select circuit breakers.

Power block

This includes household electrical appliances that consume a lot of electricity, such as an oven, electric furnace, boiler, split system. To connect the equipment to the network, they conduct a separate high-power line, which is protected by automatic machines. This is the only way to ensure the proper safety of the use of household appliances in the home. In addition, if you need to carry out repairs to the electrical network, you can easily and quickly do it.

Lighting block

How can the lighting part be designed:

one group;
2-3 groups lighting fixtures.

The first method is suitable for small rooms, where the load on the network will be small. The second type of scheme is used most often. The wiring diagram for several groups is shown below.

When, in addition to lighting fixtures, power supplies and transformers are placed in the room, they should be connected through a separate electrical circuit using an individual circuit breaker.

Large electrical engineering

The kitchen area - this is where most of the electrical equipment is located. And most often, electrical appliances work even when you are not using them (for example, a refrigerator, an electric stove, a bread machine, and so on). In order for them to function properly, and the power grid is not overloaded, lay a separate line. In this case, the cable must be with a large cross section, and the circuit breaker must be taken with such power that it can withstand the maximum voltage for your conditions.

Electrical wiring in a new building begins with the installation of a switchboard. It will be supplied with electricity from the electricity supplier. The shield is usually located at the input to Vacation home, on the stairwell high-rise buildings or in the apartment itself.

As for the apartment shield, the electricity from the input goes to the meter, which records how much energy has been spent. Then the current flows to sockets, switches and lighting fixtures.

To protect electrical circuits, special automatic settings. They are cut into the circuit in the shield in front of the cable that leads to the outlet or switch.

How much energy was spent by each electrical appliance is recorded in the panel, after which it is calculated by the electric meter, which passes the entire load through itself. This explains why the mains of the shield are made of a cable with a large cross section: this is the only way to prevent overloading the network and avoid damage to the insulating layer.

The wires going from the shield to the energy consumers can be with a small cross section, because they experience less stress. However, the cross section of the core and the material from which it is made should be chosen carefully. In the special reference literature, the rules for the use of cables, the permissible load are determined.

There are three ways to complete the electrical wiring diagram in an apartment in a new building:

Loop (tires) - the installation of the highway is carried out through distribution boxes, from which there are branches to energy consumers.
Radial method - the current is supplied to each consumer through a separate cable, it goes directly, there are no breaks and connections from the circuit breaker.
Combined method - combines the two previous methods.

All electrical wiring diagrams in a new building are not similar to each other, since many designs of various models of electrical appliances, wires (cables) are used. They are mounted according to standard or specially developed projects using a particular technology.

1. We supply current with a loop.

The ends of the cables must be connected inside the junction boxes. To switch them, you will have to perform a wiring diagram.

As a guide, you can take the circuit that is used in a high-rise building for wiring electrical wiring in a 1-room apartment.

In the shield located at the entrance, a meter is mounted, as well as 2 machines: one for the socket group, the second for the lighting group. Cables go from them in a loop to 3-4 junction boxes:

for the living room;
for the kitchen area;
for the restroom.

Both cables must be laid parallel to the boxes and connected there. Due to the fact that several decades ago the load on the network was small, the wires were used with the same thickness. The wiring was made entirely with aluminum cables with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 . Currently, copper wires are used to create electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building. How to calculate the cross section, we will tell further.

In the hallway there is a junction box for the restroom, it is connected by a wire to a socket and a switch with two keys so that you can turn the light on and off in the bathroom and in the toilet.

Machine guns can also be used for protection. They should be connected separately to sockets and lighting fixtures. Also, consumers can be controlled at the place where they are located. For example, AB No. 1 will protect electrical appliances in the kitchen area and toilet, No. 2 - appliances in the hallway and in the living room.

You can supply current to consumers in a different way: part of the electricity will go through an additional third circuit breaker of the shield. How to connect sockets and switches correctly?

turn on the lighting in the room, connect all electrical equipment to the network (for example, a floor lamp and a TV);
we turn off one machine in the shield, we look at which lamp or electrical appliance has ceased to function;
fix so as not to forget;
do the same with the other circuit breaker and write down what happened;
we analyze the obtained data.

2. Apply voltage using the radial method.

Here, as in the situation described above, the distribution of energy among the machines occurs with the help of an apartment shield. Automatic machines should be chosen such that they are suitable in terms of technical parameters for consumers according to the tested voltage.

A one-piece cable without twists is routed from the machines to consumers.

Since it is the faulty line that can be disconnected from the network in the event of a breakdown, the electrical wiring in a new building in this way will be as reliable as possible. But there are some nuances:

a large number of machines;
the impressive dimensions of the shield in which they will be placed;
long lines of cable.

As a result, to create a scheme, as well as to implement it, you will have to spend a large amount.

3. We supply voltage in a combined way.

This method combines stub and stub connections, but it takes into account the specifics of the wiring in each case. Due to the optimal selection of the load, you can reduce costs.

It doesn’t matter which electrical wiring scheme you choose in an apartment in a new building, the cable is laid either in a hidden or open way.

At covert way the wire is laid in the walls or floor (under plaster) or in the voids of drywall structures.

If the wiring method is open, then the wire is attached to the walls or ceiling using brackets.

Advantages of the hidden method:

The wires are not visible.
It is impossible to damage the wiring.
Even if a short circuit occurs, a thick layer of plaster will not allow a fire to occur, the wires will melt at most. When the wiring is open, the finish coating may catch fire.
Easy to carry out cosmetic finishing.
If the electrical wiring in a new building is optimally planned and executed with high quality, it will last for many years.

Disadvantages:

You will spend a lot of money and effort on creating electrical wiring in a new building in a closed way. You will have to scrape and finish the surfaces, and this is an additional expense.
To replace a damaged wire, you will have to spend a lot of money.
Hidden wiring does not cool well. This means that the allowable voltage is lower (compared to open).

Advantages of the open method:

Ease of installation.
Budget.
You can quickly change the electrical circuit in a new building.

Disadvantages:

The interior will be damaged.
Increased risk of wiring damage.
Fire may occur.

Analyze the advantages and disadvantages of both methods before choosing the right one. However, experts recommend doing electrical wiring in a new building in a closed way.

It's about the power cable for domestic use or a wire designed for a voltage of 220/380 V. We will not consider other types, for example, wires for a TV, computer, for heating, and the like.

What is the cable made of, its design features.

The wire can be made of copper or aluminum. Copper cables compared to aluminum (with the same cross section) have better characteristics in terms of reliability, resistance, current, they practically do not heat up. Copper cable does not oxidize, it is plastic. Therefore, its service life is long, and over the years the product does not lose its quality.

Important! PUE prohibit the use of aluminum wire for electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building.

The wire can be single-core (single-wire) or stranded (multi-wire). Single-core will be tougher, they are practically inflexible, especially when the cross section is large.

In theory, for hidden electrical wiring in a new building, you can use a single-core copper cable. The plaster will protect the conductor. However, in reality, no one uses a single-wire cable.

Single core multi-wire cable is softer and more flexible. It can be bent and rotated as required. It is recommended to use it both when creating an open or hidden type of wiring.

A three-core single-wire cable is the right choice if you need to do electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building.

Important! A cable where each core is made of a single conductor is different from a wire in which the core is made of several conductors. Since there is a high risk of fire, multi-wire cables are not used when wiring in a home.

Section.

The measure is mm 2, the cross section means the throughput of the wire. So, 1 mm 2 of copper wire is capable of passing from 8 to 10 A, of aluminum - 5 A. In order for the wiring to function properly, the cross section must be large. Only in this way the cable will not overheat, and due to the increased load, the insulation will not melt. Moreover, if the electrical wiring in the apartment is in a new building of a hidden type, then it will not cool well, so the cross section should be with a margin.

Important! The cross section and diameter are different sizes. You can measure the diameter yourself with a ruler or caliper, which is more accurate. We substitute the obtained data into a special formula and get the cross-sectional area.

Also, do not forget that you should choose a wire for electrical wiring in a new building, rounding up. For example, you did a calculation and it turned out 1.4 mm 2. This means that you should choose a wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm 2, and not 1 mm 2.

Perfect option when the cross section is exactly the same as indicated on the wire. However, in reality it may be less. Since the product is certified not by cross section, but by resistance, therefore errors are allowed. However, when the data differs too much, then the product is defective. A professional will determine this simply by looking at the wire. And you can find out the diameter of the core, and then calculate the cross section of the cable to make sure.

The thickness of the insulating layer.

It doesn't matter if it's solid or stranded wire, each of the cores must be covered with an insulating layer of PVC compound. In addition, polymers, cross-linked polyethylene are used as insulating material. The thickness of the insulation must comply with quality standards. For example, the thickness of the insulation of the wire used in the apartment (voltage not more than 660 V, cross section 1.5–2.5 mm 2) should be 0.6 mm. The insulating layer may be slightly less, but not less than 0.44 mm.

Shell.

From above, the insulated conductors of the wire are covered with a sheath. Her task is to protect and fix them. The sheath is made of PVC-compound, polymer, it is much thicker than insulation. For example, a multi-core cable has a sheath thickness of 1.8 mm, while a single-core cable has a sheath thickness of 1.4 mm. The thickness may be slightly less than the specified values.

A sheath is always present on a wire intended for home use. Even if it has small power and double insulation layer. Only in this way the conductor will work properly, and the probability of fire will be zero.

Marking.

When wiring electrical wiring in a new building, pay attention to what is written on the cable. The marking contains all the data so that you can choose the right product. The inscription can be printed in a contrasting color or embossed, it must be clearly visible.

The tag, as well as the electronic catalog may not contain data on the year of issue, as well as on the manufacturer. The standard marking looks like this: VVGng (ozh) -0.66 kV 3x1.5.

This means that in front of you is a three-core copper cable, its cross section is 1.5 mm 2, the core is single-wire (OJ). The insulating layer, the shell are made of PVC compound (VV), the product is flexible (G), non-combustible (ng), voltage - 660 V.

Important! The letter designation of the brand of the product must begin with the material from which it is made. The letter A stands for aluminum cable. For copper cable, no letter designation is used. This means that all products of the VVN brands are made of copper.

Colour.

Standard colors can be the following: solid solid, or a strip of 0.1 cm is applied to the shell throughout the product. If you see that the wire is speckled or striped, it means that it is made in a handicraft way and there is no guarantee of quality and safety.

How is the wire packaged?

The cable can be packed in a coil or a drum. The bays are used for retail sales. Drums - for wholesale. The cable should have a label with the main characteristics of the product.

The cable for electrical wiring in a new building with a bay of 100 meters comes with a tag. However, when they sell you a piece of cable, no one will give you a tag, of course, but you can ask to see it.

Certification.

The presence of a certificate confirms the quality of the product, as well as the fact that the cable is suitable for electrical work. In addition, there must be a fire safety certificate. To review these documents, ask the consultant to provide them to you. The documentation must indicate that the wire meets state quality standards. Also pay attention to the expiration date, there should be some time left before it ends. Usually, the documents contain technical specifications in accordance with GOST for wires. This means that the product is of high quality.

Appearance.

What should a quality cable look like? Please note that there are no dents, kinks, the product should not be squeezed - all this indicates that the wire is defective. The cores can be broken or closed to each other. Obviously, it is not necessary to use such a product for electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building. Therefore, carefully inspect the cable before deciding to buy.

Many houses still have electrical wiring from Soviet times, which has long failed to meet modern safety requirements. It was intended for only 4 kW, while now, when designing, it is required to calculate wiring for 10 kW and above. New cables and wires can be routed, but the work is time consuming and difficult. Installation of electrical wiring in a private house and apartment is done by hand only when a clear plan is drawn up and there is step-by-step instruction.

Do-it-yourself wiring installation

Wiring replacement

If do-it-yourself wiring in an apartment is made of aluminum wire, its service life will be no more than 20 years. Do-it-yourself wiring installation with the laying of new lines is possible only when the apartment is being renovated.

First of all, you need to consider the power and number of devices. The layout of the lighting system, sockets and junction boxes depends on many factors, in particular on how the furniture, windows and doors are located in the apartment. An accurate wiring diagram must be created. The work steps should be as follows:

Electrical wiring design: drawing up a diagram; choice of grades and cross-sections of wires, protective devices and lighting in each room.
wall chasing; wiring; connection of cores in junction boxes; installation of an apartment shield, installation of automatic machines in it and connection of an external network cable; wiring check.
Installation of socket boxes, sockets and lamps; connection of household appliances that do not contain sockets.

Wiring project

The comfort and safety of using electrical appliances depends on a quality project.

Schema Design

Do-it-yourself wiring installation can be done with high quality only when there is an apartment power supply scheme.

House power supply scheme

In the figure, the external wiring in the entrance shield is highlighted with a dotted line: grounding, main machine and RCD. Not a single power supply scheme for a house or apartment is complete without an electricity consumption meter (E).

The phase and neutral wires are crossed out with two dashes. The protective conductor must be laid separately. Three-phase input is indicated by three dashes. Group machines are located in the shield. There are separate lines with protection for the bathroom, electric stove and heater. The brand of RCD can be chosen at your discretion.

In addition to the power supply circuit, the wiring is mounted independently when there is circuit diagram, which is superimposed on the plan of the apartment and includes the following elements:

switches;
sockets;
lamps;
distribution boxes;
apartment shield;
conclusions for connecting electrical equipment: forced ventilation systems, air conditioners, ovens, etc.;
the location of the wiring laid through the premises.

The figure below is standard project wiring.

Scheme of electrification of a two-room apartment

The wiring diagram determines the entire repair for the following reasons:

any competent repair can and should be done with a change in wiring;
subsequent work will not allow to change anything in the electrical part;
high-quality repairs provide for efficient lighting and convenient location of sockets, switches and electrical appliances.

If the electrical wiring is properly installed, then there will be no carriers, extension cords and power adapters on the floor. When the repair is done correctly, the apartment should not have mobile electricity transfer devices. An exception is the connection to power tool sockets.

If we consider the distribution of sockets by room, then the installation plan is mostly chosen very approximately and not always correctly. It is best to carry them to different ends of the room. At the same time, it is necessary to draw up a plan for the location of electrical equipment and furniture in advance so that sockets and switches that need constant access are not blocked. If this does not happen, it means that the wiring is done correctly and the sockets are being used optimally. In this case, you will have to lay new wires on top of expensive wall decoration.

Under the TV you need at least two outlets, because it will require additional set-top boxes: digital or satellite, as well as video players.

At least three outlets must be installed for the computer and all the hardware it needs. Their location from the floor in height is now 30-40 cm. Thanks to this, the sockets are not visible from behind the table or sofa, which is aesthetically pleasing and practical. This means that the old openings will have to be bricked up and new ones made, and a channel must be ditched to them.

The maximum energy consumption occurs in the kitchen. To electric oven, microwave oven and washing machine need to run separate cables as the power of each electrical appliance exceeds 1.5 kW.

Each of these devices is connected to an RCD.

The work area requires a whole block of outlets, as the number of auxiliary electrical equipment grows every year. For a small kitchen, two outlets will be enough, since many appliances will not fit there. Place them conveniently above the tables so that you can easily turn them on. You also need to make sockets for electric ignition of gas burners and an additional exhaust fan.

The refrigerator needs only one outlet, to which you can easily connect. If any stationary electrical appliance is built into a cabinet, then it is convenient to use a separate machine located in the control panel. This will be a reliable guarantee that the joints will not short out when water enters.

The design transformation plan should not adversely affect the electrical safety of the premises. In an unforeseen situation, designers will never be to blame. If the electrical wiring is not done correctly, the person who had to lay it is responsible for this.

Wire selection

Wires and cables are laid in walls (concealed wiring) or in boxes and pipes (open). Cable routing is allowed to be made open, but they are more often placed behind partitions or in auxiliary rooms.

The most used cable for home wiring is VVG or VVGng (less often - PUNP and NYM).

It is better to connect to the floor shield with an NYM cable, as it is more reliable in terms of fire safety. Despite the high cost, it is often used as a power cable when wiring is installed in a private house and apartment. It will not prevent them from replacing the cheap and fire hazardous VVG input, for example, in a new building.

The VVGng cable does not spread combustion due to the use of refractory plastic compound. It is convenient to use for gaskets if it has a flat shape.

PUNP is the cheapest flat wire with 2-3 strands. It has insulation that loses its properties from heating. It is not recommended to include it in the home electrical decision plan.

It is better to make the internal wiring of the shield with wires PV2, PV3 and PV4 with a diameter of 4 mm. To install the wiring, you will need plastic boxes, clamps, corrugated hoses and junction boxes. It is advisable to purchase skirting boards with cable channels.

The entire load of an apartment or house falls on the input cable. Its cross section is determined depending on the total power of all consumers of electricity. Multiplying it by the utilization factor - 0.75, we find the power consumption. It is also necessary to take into account the reactive power that the motor consumes. washing machine. To do this, its power is divided by the coefficient cos φ = 0.85. It should be borne in mind that the water heater in the washer is an active and significantly predominant load. If fluorescent lamps are used, they reactive power also taken into account (cos φ = 0.8).

When wiring is done in a house with your own hands, you should take into account the reactive load, here it is much more than in an apartment: asynchronous motors machine tools and pumps (cos φ = 0.85), welding transformer (cos φ = 0.5-0.7), power tools.

By setting the total power in each circuit, according to the table, you can select a wire or cable of a suitable section. At the same time, a reserve is made for possible additional connections in the future.

Table for selecting the cross-section of a copper conductor by power consumption or current

Section, sq. mm	Core diameter, mm	Power / current
		One wire PV-1 or PV-3, kW / A	Two wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laying together, kW / A	Three wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laying together, kW / A	Four wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laying together, kW / A	One two-	One three- core cable VVG, PVS or PUNGP, kW / A
0.5	0.79	2,2 / 10	1,98 / 9	1,76 / 8	1,54 / 7	1,76 / 8	1,54 / 7
0.75	0.97	2,86 / 13	2,64 / 12	2,42 / 11	2,2 / 10	2,42 /11	2,2 / 10
1	1.13	3,3 / 15	3,08 / 14	2,86 / 13	2,64 / 12	2,86 / 13	2,64 / 12
1.5	1.38	4,4 / 20	3,74 / 17	3,3 / 15	3,08 / 14	3,52 / 16	2,86 / 13
2.5	1.78	5,94 / 27	5,28 / 24	4,84 / 22	4,84 / 22	4,84 / 22	4,18 / 19
4	2.25	7,92 / 36	7,48 / 34	6,82 / 31	5,94 / 27	6,16 / 28	5,28 / 24
6	2.76	10,12 / 46	9,02 / 41	8,14 / 37	7,7 / 35	7,7 / 35	6,6 / 30
10	3.57	15,4 / 70	13,2 / 60	12,1 / 55	9,9 / 45	11 / 50	9,9 / 45
16	4.51	19,8 / 90	16,5 / 75	15,4 / 70	14,3 / 65	15,4 / 70	13,2 / 60
25	5.64	27,5 / 125	22 / 100	19,8 / 90	17,6 / 80	19,8 / 90	16,5 / 75
35	6.67	33 / 150	26,4 / 120	24,2 / 110	22 / 100	24,2 / 110	19,8 / 90
50	7.98	41,8 / 190	36,3 / 165	33 / 150	29,7 / 135	30,8 / 140	26,4 / 120
70	9.44	52,8 / 240	44 / 200	40,7 / 185	36,3 / 165	38,5 / 175	34,1 / 155
95	11	63,8 / 290	53,9 / 245	49,5 / 225	44 / 200	47,3 / 215	41,8 / 190
120	12.36	74,8 / 340	61,6 / 280	56,1 / 255	50,6 / 230	57,2 / 260	48,4 / 220

Protective equipment is matched to the cable. If it can withstand a current of 25 A, then the RCD or machine is set to 16 A.

The power of the electricity consumption meter and the maximum consumption of electrical appliances must match each other, otherwise the system will be de-energized. The characteristics of the meter indicate what energy consumption it is designed for.

Illumination selection

Illumination is measured in lux (lm / m 2). The figure below shows the norms of illumination of premises.

Norms of illumination of residential premises

When wiring is carried out in the apartment, it is necessary to include in the work plan the possibility of using additional lighting. In the bedroom or living room, it is used to highlight interior details and zoning rooms. It has nothing to do with lighting standards, but sockets with convenient access must be installed for it. In the kitchen, lighting is done in cabinets, as well as for the working and dining areas. The bathroom should be light at the location of the washing machine or near the mirror. Switches and sockets are used with protection against moisture.

Wiring

The plan for laying hidden wiring provides for its placement in strobes or under plaster. It is fixed with plastic clamps after 0.4-0.5 m. For new junction boxes, recesses are prepared and installed using alabaster. They also partially use the old ones if they are on the path of laying the route. External wiring is placed in cable channels.

The laying is done strictly horizontally and vertically. Then there will be less chance of getting into the wire with a self-tapping screw when drilling holes in the wall.

The ends of the cores inserted into the box are stripped and connected, as required by the scheme. It is advisable to make connections using terminal blocks, soldering or crimping. The twist is considered a temporary connection, but it can be further developed.

The entire electrical circuit and how the wiring in a private house or apartment will work depends on the switchboard. It is located near front door. If the wall is made of drywall, choose the built-in version of the shield, and on the reinforced concrete one, install the outer one. The location is made at a low height (about 1.5 m). The shield is fastened to the dowel-nails or self-tapping screws. Placing the meter in the shield is not required, since it must be installed at the entrance, and in a private house - on an external power pole.

You can buy a shield in the store when you know how much equipment you need to put inside, while leaving a spare place. The standard shield contains mounting points for DIN rails, into which all electrical equipment is easily inserted and fixed. Connecting wires inside they install new ones and without twists. Phases and neutral wire differ in color. If it is the same, the marking is made from colored tubes or using inscriptions. For input and output cables, a margin of at least 120 mm in length is left for possible repairs.

Connection input cable and the electricity consumption meter is produced by electrical service specialists.

Installation of socket boxes, sockets and lamps

The center of the location of the first outlet is marked on the wall, and then, if required, the middle of the next one is marked after 71 mm (standard center distance).

Installation of sockets and sockets

Make recesses for the socket in concrete wall is a labor-intensive process that requires a puncher with a special crown. Then strobes are made to them, and electrical wiring is laid. The best solution is to run separate wires to each outlet. A plug for wires is cut out in the socket and it is checked how it enters the hole in the wall. Then the hole is primed, and a gypsum-based putty mixture is applied inside. After the socket, together with the wires inserted into it, is pressed strictly horizontally into the solution. The installation box must fit flush with the wall surface. Strobes and dips around the socket boxes are smeared plaster mortar only after their complete fixation.

Sockets are installed on screws or self-tapping screws after the repair of walls with finishing. In this case, the voltage in the supply wires is turned off. After mounting the frames and socket panels, the electricity supply is resumed.

Plastic sockets can be used to install switches. Their installation is done in a similar way.

Sockets in drywall construction are easy to install due to the fact that the material is well processed. Frame systems allow you to make hidden laying of communications with any number of wires.

Lighting devices are evenly distributed in the room. The classic solution is to hang a chandelier in the middle of the room. When installing it, you need to know that now a ground wire must be connected to the chandeliers and fluorescent lamps. When installing a stretch ceiling or plasterboard ceiling, the chandelier is attached to the base through embedded elements. It looks like she is floating in the air.

Placing a chandelier on a stretch ceiling

Recently become popular Spotlights which are placed in false ceiling. Even before its finishing, it is necessary to determine the installation location of the devices. It is rational to place the lamps at a distance of at least 1 m from each other, and from the wall - 60 cm. At the same time, they should not fall on the frame parts. The wiring is located between the floor base and the false ceiling.

Mounting. Video

This video will tell you about the installation of electrical wiring in the apartment.

If you consistently go through all the stages from design to installation, then the electrical wiring in the apartment with your own hands can be successfully done. Such work should be included in the plan for the next repair and should be carried out in the first place. For this, step-by-step instructions are used. Convenience, reliability and durability electrical system depend on how correctly the scheme was drawn up, how it was possible to calculate the equipment, on the quality of components and compliance with all norms and rules.

Introduce modern apartment impossible without electricity. But to mount the wiring on your own is quite real.

This will require patience and a little study of the methods and procedures for performing electrical work.

In this article, we will tell you how to make, change or conduct (lay from scratch) electric wiring from the shield in the apartment with your own hands.

The main regulatory document regulating the development activities electrical networks – Rules for the installation of electrical installations (PUE). Before proceeding with self-assembly, you should familiarize yourself with the EMP and especially carefully study the sections related to the choice of equipment, installation rules and safety precautions.

Basic rules to follow when arranging electrical wiring:

, inlet shield, sockets and others key elements networks are mounted in easily accessible places.
Switches are located on the side of the porch, inside the room. Installation height - 60-150 cm from the floor. The wires to the switches are fed from above.
have at a height of at least 50 cm from the floor, the maximum allowable distance is 80 cm. The wires are connected to the sockets from below. Sockets should be located more than 50 cm from powerful current consumers, gas stove and grounded elements related to other communications.
Sockets are installed at the rate of 1 pc. per 6 m² of the room, with the exception of the kitchen. In the kitchen, the number of sockets corresponds to the number of electrical appliances. Sockets cannot be installed in the toilet, the socket group in the bathroom is connected through a separate transformer, or a stationary extension cord with a plug is laid, which, if necessary, is connected to one of the sockets in the kitchen. In this case, it is desirable to separate it into a separate connection group.

Wire routing must be strictly vertical or horizontal.. Turns are performed only at right angles. The location of all cables must be marked on the plan.
Cable laying routes are located at a strictly defined distance from the load-bearing elements of the ceiling, pipes, edges of openings.
Wires are laid so that they do not come into contact with metal elements. building structures.
The distance between the wires laid in one channel is at least 3 mm, or each of them must have personal protection(channel or corrugation).
Wiring and wiring is carried out in junction boxes. All connections must be insulated, copper and aluminum wire not allowed.
Bolted connections are used to fasten protective and neutral conductors to devices.

Step by step wiring diagram

Let's take a closer look at how to make electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands. Proper design and thoughtful - a guarantee of the safety of the inhabitants of the apartment. In the process of developing a circuit, you can optimize the location of elements internal network, correctly calculate the required amount of materials, select the type of wire. Having a wiring diagram and plan will also secure in the event of future repairs, eliminating the risk of accidental damage during repairs.

An example of a wiring diagram in an apartment with your own hands, see the photo:

With a lack of experience at this stage, it is better to turn to qualified electricians, but it is quite possible to draw up a connection diagram on your own. The plan and calculation of the internal electrical network is subject to approval by the energy inspectorate, so if there is blunders it will have to be redone.

How to properly organize the wiring in the apartment with your own hands from scratch, see the video:

To prepare the scheme, you will need a drawing and a plan of the apartment. The plan should indicate the proposed location of furniture and large household appliances. Guided by the requirements of the PUE, lighting points, sockets and switches are marked on the drawing.

In modern practice connection is made by groups of points. In each room (with the exception of the kitchen) there are two such groups: lighting and socket. There may be more connection groups in the kitchen, as it is recommended to connect some other powerful electrical appliances as a separate group.

In order to save materials, connection groups may look different:

Lighting group of rooms, corridor and kitchen;
Lighting group of the bathroom;
Outlet group of the corridor and rooms;
Outlet group of the kitchen;
Electric stove.

If there is a floor heating system or other stationary heating appliances, a separate connection group is provided for each of them.

At the wiring design stage, the power consumption and the estimated current strength in the network are calculated. This is necessary for the correct and. When calculating the total power, absolutely all electrical appliances are taken into account available in the apartment, down to hair dryer and electric shaver. The wiring must withstand the simultaneous switching on of all current consumers. To determine the calculated current strength, the result is divided by 220.

A residual current device must be installed on the trunk for each connection group.

Tools and materials

To connect the apartment switchboard to the main one in houses with three-phase power, it is recommended cable VVG-5 with a cross section of 6 mm², in houses with two-phase power supply - a two-core VVG-2 of a similar section.

The lighting part of the wiring is made of wires VVG-3 * 1.5 (three-core, section 1.5 mm²), 2.5 mm² wire is recommended for the female part. To connect the electric stove, wires with a cross section of 4 mm² are used.

An RCD is installed in the shield at 16 A for lighting wiring, 20 A for the socket group. A 32 A machine is placed on the electric stove branch, but if its power exceeds 7 kW, a 63 A device will be needed.
Cable length is determined by simply measuring the distance from the switchboard to each connection point. About 4 meters of stock are added to the final result. About a third of the resulting length falls on lighting, the rest is spent on connecting sockets.

The number of sockets, switches, junction boxes and other elements is calculated directly on the diagram. In addition, you will need socket boxes, terminal blocks, PPE caps, electrical tape, cable channels, corrugations or boxes.

The toolbox includes:

Bulgarian with a circle on a stone or a wall chaser;
Perforator;
Bit;
Phase indicator;
Screwdrivers with insulated handles (cross and slotted);
pliers;
wire cutters;
Level;
Portable lamp;
Extension;
Putty knife.

Marking and chasing walls

For marking you will need a level, tape measure, chalk or construction pencil. In places where sockets are installed, squares 7x7 cm are drawn if a double socket is to be installed, a rectangle is applied on the markup, 14 cm wide. Then cable laying routes are applied to the wall in accordance with the plan.

Lastly, mark the location of the switches, marking them with squares, like sockets. Rectangles 9x20 cm are drawn under the junction boxes.

Holes for sockets and switches are marked with a core drill, then grooves are cut along the marked lines with a grinder.

The depth of the groove is at least 20 mm, the width of the groove depends on the number of wires that must be laid in a particular area. All wires must fit completely freely.

After cutting the grooves, it remains to knock out the strobes and all the planned holes. Gating is a laborious, dirty and noisy process., work should be planned for working hours and warn neighbors in advance.

Wiring and fittings

First of all, RCD, the number of which corresponds to the number of connection groups. A piece of wire with a cross section of 5 mm² is inserted inside the shield. Blue - fastened to zero, white - to the upper contact of the machine, grounding (yellow with a green stripe) - to ground. RCDs are connected in series with a piece of white wire.

Do-it-yourself installation of new wiring in the apartment is recommended to start from the farthest connection point.

The wire is cut into segments of the required length with an allowance for connections, pulled into corrugations on the floor and then placed in strobes.

To connect sockets, a wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm² is used., from lighting fixtures and switches - wire 1.5 mm². It is advisable to attach a tag to the end of each wire indicating the purpose and location of the connection group (point).

Wires in junction boxes are connected using PPE or simply well insulated. The main wire inside the shield is connected as follows: the blue conductor - to the neutral bus, phase, in red or brown insulation - to the RCD from below, grounding - to ground below.

After that, the wiring is called and, if the installation is done correctly, it remains to call an electrician to connect to switchboard. How to properly install and lay electrical wiring in the apartment with your own hands, you can see further in the video:

All work is performed only with serviceable tools., handles hand tool should be isolated. For additional protection, rubberized gloves are needed; wall chasing is done with goggles and a respirator. Chasing at a height is carried out from a goat or from a stepladder with a side stop.

In this video, an experienced specialist will tell and show how to change the wiring in the apartment with your own hands:

It is customary to do any work, including the installation of electrical wiring, following a certain sequence. Thanks to this, you will save both your time and resources.

And the question of reworking any wiring group in a room or the entire apartment as a whole will no longer stand even in the long term. Let's take a closer look at the order of work, adhering to which you will ultimately get a high-quality result.

Electrical before or after plastering

First of all, remember that all electrical installation is done in a good way after plastering. Therefore, the finishers work first, then the electricians come in.

In extreme situations, you have to do the opposite, but then you will encounter a lot of problems that could have been avoided in the first place.

Marking for electrical

Any quality work starts with accurate markup. Most often, professionals use laser levels and scale builders for this.

With their help, you can quickly and accurately mark the center for all the sockets in the room. It would seem that a couple of millimeters will not play a decisive role here. What's wrong if one block at the beginning of the room is slightly higher than the other at its end.

However, very often in apartments there are wallpapers with horizontal or vertical stripes. And along these strips it will be clearly visible when the socket box is not installed evenly.

The same can be said about the seams on the tiles.

Therefore, set all the sockets in the room in the same plane. The recommended distances are as follows:

for sockets - 30 cm from the floor

for light switches - 60-90cm

everything above the countertop, in the bathroom or in the kitchen - 110cm

After all the centers of the socket boxes are marked, then proceed to marking the mounting points of the fixtures, both on the walls and on the ceiling.

At the same time, you can mark the places of suspension drywall constructions. Since in the future, when all the loops and corrugations are on the ceiling, it will not be very convenient to mark the fasteners for drywall.

But with all this it is worth bothering if you will also mount the structures.

After all this, proceed to putting marks under the corrugation fasteners. The most important thing is that they do not interfere with each other.

Usually, it takes a full working day to make a competent markup, even with the use of modern measuring instruments. Set yourself up for just such a period in advance. You will be in a hurry and it will definitely come out sideways to you during further installation.

Drilling socket boxes

Then the most noisy and dusty part of electrical work begins - drilling and chasing.

In order to minimize the amount of dust, construction vacuum cleaners are used.

In addition, each tool in this case must have an outlet with a nozzle or a dust extraction device.

A small puncher, a medium one, a large one, a wall chaser, all these tools must have dust removal, otherwise there will be no sense from your vacuum cleaner.

There are also special nozzles that are worn on an ordinary grinder and all work takes place with almost complete dust removal. You can purchase both expensive models from famous Hilti or DeWalt companies, as well as absolutely affordable ones, such as Mechanic AirDuster.

First, the centers of the socket boxes are drilled using a d-6mm drill. Then, based on the material of the walls, a tool is selected for arranging the niches of the socket boxes.

It could be:

wall chaser with 60mm deep cut

wall chasing

After manufacturing niches for sockets and switches, chasing under the cable lines begins. You need to do it in that order.

Otherwise, if you first strobe, and then try to make niches, the center drill will lead you into the strobe.

Cutting strobes is easiest to do using a laser level. Sometimes several lasers are involved for this work at the same time.

For example, if you have two strobes going down to the block of sockets - one power, the other low-current, then it will be faster to set two laser levels and, without descending from the ladder, cut both parallel straight lines from top to bottom at once.

When all the niches and strobes are ready, the premises are cleaned and all the sockets are installed.

Next comes the adjustment of the clips for the corrugations on the ceiling. Doing this is easiest and fastest with the help of .

If it is not there, then d-6mm holes are drilled with an ordinary puncher and the clips are planted on the dowel nails.

Is it possible to lay cable lines without corrugations and how it all can end, read in a separate article.

Use only gray PVC corrugation. It, unlike other multi-colored species, does not support combustion. Its flammability class is A1.

In addition to incombustibility, the corrugation protects the cable from mechanical damage. You can step on it, lightly hit it with a hammer, hook it with a sharp edge of the profile.

Of course, you will damage the shell itself, but nothing will happen to the cable. Well, among other things, installation in a corrugated sleeve looks more aesthetic.

In the corrugation, the cable is laid with equal success both along the wall and along the floor and ceiling. True, in all cases there are a number of significant differences.

Number of groups per room

Where and how many cable routes should be laid? As for the living quarters (hall, bedroom), they used to have only two lines.

To date, three have become practically the norm:

sockets

lighting

plus air conditioning or other powerful appliances

In the children's room, you can have a separate wire for the outlet on the TV. This is done so that the child can be safely in this room, even without your supervision.

If your child is busy watching cartoons, then the rest of the sockets in the nursery are turned off in the switchboard. At the same time, you will be absolutely calm that a curious child will not climb anywhere.

It turns out that at least two cables are brought into the living room:

lighting

sockets

Three on average:

lighting

air conditioning

For children - four.

As for the kitchen, the situation is slightly different. Electricity consumption in the kitchen is the largest in the entire apartment.

Among the powerful and responsible devices, to which a separate cable goes, the following stand out:

washing machine

dryer

microwave

fridge

Separate lines are also started from the shield to each block of outlets above the work surface. That is, if you have 2-3 blocks of socket boxes on your work surface, then a separate group should go to each of these blocks.

What is it for? At the moment, kitchen electrical appliances are very energy-intensive, and so that when using a bread machine with a kettle and a toaster at the same time, the machine does not knock out and the contacts do not heat up, so many separate lines are initially laid.

Thanks to this, you can safely use all the necessary electronic devices and not be afraid that something will burn or melt somewhere. This is especially true during the holidays, when cooking in the kitchen is in full swing.

It turns out that at least 10 cable lines need to be brought into the kitchen.

The cable cross section must be selected based on the following recommendations:

for low-power devices and lighting - copper cable with a cross section of 3 * 1.5 mm2

for sockets and air conditioning - 3*2.5mm2

oven - 3*4mm2

electric stove, hob, instantaneous water heater– 3*6mm2

Cable brand VVGnG-Ls or NYM.

If we sum up all the above routes, it turns out that in a two- or three-room apartment, on average, about 30 power lines start up.

These are the realities of today.

As for the low current, then two twisted pairs of UTP or FTP cables are connected to each access point where there is Internet or a TV.

Plus, don't forget shielded TV cable.

It can also be started both directly and provide a separate television outlet. Thanks to her, your video equipment will not be tied to any one place.

Connection in junction boxes

When all the routes are thrown, the turn comes to connecting the wires in the junction boxes.

Since there should be access to the distribution boxes according to the PUE, it is not recommended to do them on the ceiling. Also not pretty modern renovation boxes look flush with the walls.

So the best way- the use of special recessed socket boxes, in which all switching is performed. Most electricians use conventional 45mm deep sockets.

Individual installers choose deeper options - 60mm.

However, there are even wider specimens, for example, from Kaiser. They are called - mounting box for electronics Kaiser 1068-02.

Often, in order to leave a sufficient supply of wire, even in a conventional recessed socket there is not enough space. And this box perfectly accommodates all the wires, plus the connecting terminals.

All switching in them is made in the upper part. Then the whole thing is puttied and the usual socket box remains.

For subsequent access to the connections, you just need to remove the wiring equipment (socket, switch), remove the plug, pull out the supply of wire and carry out any manipulations with the cores.

If you do not have a single block, but a double or triple one, then here you can apply in-depth options up to 60mm.

Internal jumpers in such blocks can be dismantled. Due to this, the supply of wire that remains in such a box sometimes reaches 30 cm.

Switching wires inside can be done in several ways:

soldering

pre-twist welding

crimping

clamp Wago

It is not recommended to use looping in outlet lines. Also, all outlet lines are looped. That is, an additional wire is pulled from the first outlet to the very last one.