How to make a two-handed straight brace from a cutting disc. Do-it-yourself professional diamond blade scraper Construction scraper show how to make

04.05.2020

tool steel 9XC and hardened to 55...58 HRC. Blade bending radius - 200mm, sharpening - straight bevel down. The 140mm long handles are made of beech and oiled. Cutting length - 170mm or 270mm, width 36mm

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from 3600p

Shackle PETROGRAD N3, 170mm (semicircular, R60)

A semi-circular scraper with upwardly curved handles will be convenient for various carpentry operations: precise fitting of logs to size, quick removal of material, as well as selection of recesses. The blade is hand forged from tool steel 9XC and hardened to 55...58 HRC. Blade bending radius - 60mm, sharpening - lenticular . The 140mm long handles are made of beech and oiled. Cutting length - 170mm, width 36mm. Blade thickness - 6mm, sharpening angle - 30 degrees. Production Petrograd (Russia).

3500p

Cleaver PETROGRAD N5, 270mm (Swedish type)

Forged bracket bent in two directions has the advantage before other non-linear brackets, in convenience and control. The blade is hand forged from U8A tool steel and hardened to 55...58 HRC. The 140mm long handles are made of beech and oiled. Cutting length - 270mm, width 36mm. Blade thickness - 6mm, sharpening angle - 30 degrees. The total length of the bracket is 650 mm. Production Petrograd (Russia).

5200p

Scrape PETROGRAD N7, for cleaning grooves in logs (Meddragskniv)

Scrape PETROGRAD N7, for cleaning grooves in logs (Meddragskniv). A complete analogue of the Norwegian skobel Meddragskniv. The blade thickness is 6 mm, the radius of the selected groove is 35 mm, the distance between the handles is 400 mm, the sharpening angle is 30 degrees. Forged hardened blade made of 65G steel, cutting edge hardness - 55-58HRС. total weight- ~1.1kg. The length of the handles is 140mm. The handles are made of beech.
Designed for finishing the lunar groove after the adze (removes the scaly effect). The shape of the arms of the bracket allows it to be rotated during operation to grind the entire surface of the groove. Forged by hand.

Production - factory of joinery and carpentry tools PETROGRAD.
Made in Russia.

8400p

Perhaps the most difficult task for a novice cooper, who undertook to collect the entire essential tool for his workshop, is the manufacture of cooper's staples. This question is far from being as simple as it seems at first glance, and if there is no experienced master-mentor nearby with his own set of tools, then you can get into trouble by making staples with incorrect parameters, which will be impossible to use.

In general, the scraper is a universal tool. Once upon a time in Russia they were used instead of planes. One and the same scraper can both "drive chips" from the workpiece and remove the thinnest transparent shavings from it. But for different purposes, different staples were made. So, for example, a straight scraper, with which carpenters scrape and scrape logs, is completely unsuitable for a cooper. It's all about the two most important parameters that determine the functionality of the bracket. This is the angle between the plane of the blade and the plane of the handles, as well as the angle between the handles themselves.

Straight cooper's staple

A straight cooper's staple is usually used for planing the outer face of a riveting on a cooper's bench. They can also chamfer from the bottom or from the end of the product. In accordance with the type of work, straight scrapers can have different lengths of blades.

Sketch No. 1 shows the optimal angle of expansion of the handles of such a staple. Pay attention to the most important condition: the plane of the blade and the plane of the handles must be parallel!(shown in left view).

Cleaver "Gutter"

To be honest, I use the straight cleaver exclusively for chamfering. It is not very convenient for them to cut off the outer surface of the riveting, especially if it is wide. It is much more convenient to work with another tool - a "gutter" scraper.

Sketch No. 2 shows its main parameters. Pay special attention to condition #1: the axial lines of the handles must cross the level line of the upper point of the arc of the cutting part. Thanks to this, the staple works "in both directions", i.e. it can be used to process both the outer and inner faces of the riveting!

It is possible to process the outer surface of the riveting on the cooper's bench with a groove in two ways - both with the concave (in relation to the master) side, and with the convex one. In the first case, the trough works on the principle of a planer-sherhebel, providing a quick rough sharpening of the workpiece. In the second, it forms a semicircular surface, which will only have to be brought to mind with a joiner's jointer. To process the inner face of the riveting, you can use the concave side of the groove. Roughing of riveting with a groove is faster than with an electric planer.

It is also convenient to use the trough for cutting out and rounding wooden hoops.

In my workshop there are only two standard sizes of gutters (indicated on sketch No. 2). Big, I plan riveting, and any width and for any diameter of tubs. Well, the smaller one is used exclusively for hoops.

Improved semi-circular cooperage staple

Semicircular brackets are used for processing the inner surfaces of tub frames. For any semicircular scraper, it is important to observe the optimal slope of the handles shown in sketch No. 3. It is better to make the handles parallel to each other, otherwise, when scraping, you will knock the wrists and hands against the edges of the skeleton.

The usual semicircular staple with a constant bending radius of the blade has a significant drawback. If you make its radius close to the inner radius of the tub, then with its edges it will touch the inner surface of the core where it is not necessary at all, including on the already processed and cleaned side. If you reduce the radius of the scraper, then it will work like a sherhebel planer, leaving a groove after each pass, which will somehow need to be removed.

Therefore, it is better to make the bending radius of the canvas variable. In its central part, the radius is large, close to the parameters of the skeletons of your tubs, and reduced along the edges. Such sharply rounded edges will not hurt anything, and the inner surface will turn out to be quite smooth.

The staple with the parameters indicated on the sketch No. 3 is the most popular for me. It is the smallest, but with its help I process almost all products. Small and medium he does cleanly, and for large and very large he performs roughing. For finishing them, I have two more sizes, which are quite enough for the entire range of manufactured products.

Cooperage one-handed staples

Staples are used for the same purpose as semicircular staples, with the only difference that they are intended for products of the smallest sizes. Accordingly, the smaller your products, the smaller the radius and width of the bracket should be.

Everything that has been said about semicircular brackets is also true for brackets. Sketch #4 shows that the edges of the staple below the horizontal centerline are rounded inwards. The points of intersection of the horizontal axial and the web of the bracket are the junction points of two different radii. How much to make the second radius smaller - see for yourself, it depends on the size of your products.

A bit of exotic

In the process of comprehending the craft, each master from time to time faces various tasks, for the solution of which it will be necessary to invent a special tool or device. There is, in addition to the main ones, a great many different highly specific cooperage staples. As an example, consider a unique tool invented and made by one of my acquaintances.

This scraper does not have a single surface that could be called basic. The handles diverge in different directions, moreover, in planes almost perpendicular to each other. The canvas has a smoothly changing radius of curvature, and even so smoothly wrapped "Moebius". None of my acquaintances would undertake to draw this scraper, but even if they did, it is unlikely that anyone could read the drawing. So here I am just showing appearance from various angles.

John, the author of the YouTube channel "John Heisz - I Build It", tells about the manufacture of another tool - a scraper, which, although not very often used in carpentry, but, nevertheless, is simply necessary. In addition, he will talk about very reliable way tool handle attachments.

Materials.
— Hard wood
— Old diamond blade for concrete
— Two-component epoxy resin
- Sandpaper
— Impregnation for wood
- Thick copper wire.

Manufacturing process.
It is quite simple to make a scraper from an old, unnecessary diamond disc for concrete, which is what the master demonstrates to us.

According to his own words, he sketches the shape of the future scrapel from memory, remembering the shape of similar products in the photo on the Internet, while trying to fit into the size of the disk as much as possible.

And he begins marking from the front edge of the knife, its tip, the length of which will be approximately 5 inches. That's a lot for a small scraper.

John then cuts off a small piece of steel with a cutting disc to see if it can be hardened. It's steel good quality and she will give a good descent. The author had problems with the first cutting disc: it got stuck in the cut and overheated the metal. John replaced it with a newer one and it worked much better. The fact is that the steel of most of these discs is already hardened, and it would be very difficult, if not impossible, to cut with such a tool. Of course, for a plasma cutter, this is not a problem! However, in this case, it will take a lot of time to grind to a given shape.

The master uses an ordinary grinder here, although he also has a battery in his arsenal. The thing is that a cordless machine is good in cases where you need to make a quick cut or in such jobs where you do not need to apply a lot of effort. Otherwise, it is better to resort to a conventional wired tool. Blades on it last longer and cut faster at higher rpm.

After cutting out the main part, he slightly refines difficult places with a grinding disk. For this kind of work, it's best to have a spare sander with a regular sanding disc to quickly switch from one to the other.

I marked the future blade and fixed the workpiece with a clamp.

Then he cuts at a right angle, and makes cuts on the edges of future handles, the purpose of which will be announced a little later.

Initially, the author intended to do all the work on sharpening the blade with the help of a manual whetstone. But, since in his arsenal there was a tape grinding machine, the master did not refuse his services.

in front of you homemade machine Roger with 2" x 72" ribbon. All the necessary plans for its assembly are available at this link.
In order to guide the blade at the right angle, and to keep it, John fastened a piece of board to the machine.

The next step could not have been taken, since the author mentioned that this steel is already hardened. In addition, he did not do anything that would contribute to its overheating. Heating the blade to a slightly crimson color simply cooled it in water.

John tried not to overdo it with stripping and limited himself to removing rust and scale formed after heating the steel. But if desired, you can bring the product to a shine.

Next, the author cuts out a piece of maple for the handles. And then the craftsman finds interesting solution how to attach them to the blade. It makes slots wide enough for the shank to fit in, right on circular saw. It is much faster and easier than drilling these grooves.

And then he will fill the open part of the groove with a plank of the same thickness.

And now the reason why John cut these slits in the ends of the shank... The most unexpected and dangerous thing that can happen while using a stapler is when the handle suddenly slips off the shank. To prevent such a development of events, the author bends the ends of the shank with pliers, in this way, after warming them up properly.

And then immediately puts a handle on them. Thus, he burned grooves in the handle for the "mustache". Charming technical solution, isn't it?

With the second handle repeats the same action.

Having generously smeared the grooves with epoxy, installs the handles on the shanks, and drives a suitable board into the groove.

After curing the epoxy, cut off excess wood and carefully sand with sandpaper.

Initially, the master planned to use copper tube for the safety ring, but later decided to still use copper wire, wrapping it several times around the handle. This is an ordinary copper wire from a power cable, from which the insulation was previously removed.

This turned out to be quite difficult to do. This work should have been done before the handle was put on the shank. Then it would be possible to bend the wire more precisely in shape.

After all, John coats the copper helix with a thick coat of epoxy to hold it in place. Finally, the author applies a couple of layers of linseed oil to the handles, more for beauty than functionality.

A day to dry and finish.

Of course, mandatory impregnation with linseed oil.

First test on a piece soft wood. Cuts great!

This is the tool that John got.

Thanks to John for detailed wizard class, and especially for the reliable way of attaching handles!

Skobel (plow, planer, koroder) - an old carpenters' tool in the form of a straight or curved knife with handles at the ends, designed for stripping the bark from logs and their primary planing, as well as the main tool for manually planing rivets in the manufacture of cooperage etc.).

Skobel (another name is a plow ) is used for stripping logs when felling log cabins ; after stripping, the wood becomes light, without traces of bark. The walls of the house from a log house, processed “under the bracket”, do not require additional sheathing and finishing and attract with the natural beauty of the tree. At the same time, it is impossible to level the surface of the log with a scraper - there are irregularities that repeat the shape of the trunk, and scuffs from the ax on the knots.

Straight cooper's staple

Life does not stand still, it moves. Something dies in it, making room for the new, and something remains unshakable, like fashion - everything is new, it's a well-forgotten old. My story is about skobel and its modern application.

I was prompted to master this instrument by a case when a friend gave me several bags of shed rubbish, which was inherited from my father-in-law, a well-known artisan in our district. Crazy from luck, I took out of my bags either a rare selector, or a set of crimpers - a true gift of fate, and even a surprise - a curved forged knife, shaped like a sickle, with two vertical handles. This outlandish instrument turned out to be a scraper, which I have seen many times in pictures, but never had to hold in my hands. Immediately, intuitively taking it in my hands, I tried it on a log and realized that I wanted to master the work with it.

It turned out that the skebel is much older than I could have imagined. Already in the Middle Paleolithic, people used a stone scraper, flint plates with an arcuate working edge beveled inward. With the advent of iron in everyday life, the scraper takes on the form familiar to us and no longer changes. He served for stripping, scraping the bark. It was the stripping, and not the cutting of the material, that determined such a long life for this tool. Recall the structure of a tree: bark, cambium, bast, sapwood, core and core. The cambium layer and the bast part of the tree are the natural protection of wood from external influences. It is the preservation, and not the cutting of the bast, that is the main task of working with a scraper. By prying the bark and tearing it off, the scraper crushes the back surface, smoothes the bast to a characteristic sheen, compacting and leaving the wood intact. The movement of the scraper is possible only along the cambium, since it is soft and loose in structure, and it is absolutely unacceptable that the tool would get stuck or split the tree. The movement of the scraper is directed towards itself, with the effort of two hands, smoothly and without jerks, in order to tear off, and not cut the material, and of course along the growth of the fibers, from the butt to the top. After stripping with a scraper, the surface of the wood takes on a characteristic, waxy White color. The wood begins to shine, as after waxing or varnishing. If such a visual effect is observed, then technological process performed correctly. The walls of the log house, made of logs, “treated to look like a staple”, usually no longer need additional protection and attract attention with their unique and natural beauty.

But rough, as it is written in most literature, primitive planing can also be carried out with a scraper. I don't know why primitive? Having slightly sharpened the cutting edge, it is very convenient for me to cut, clean and adjust the thermal groove when knitting a log house with a scraper. Yes, I clean and adjust the corner bowls. But this is more of an exception than a recommended practice. Since the proverb is still alive: “after dinner, mustard, that after a skobel - an ax.

In the recent past, debarking a log for a scraper was widespread, as people tried to use natural protection as much as possible without inventing impregnations and performing many operations manually. Today, many firms also offer customers a “scrape” log, but in practice they remove the layer by planing, rather than crushing the bark with scrapers to a shine of bast. Such a log is sold, of course, more expensive, and if you agreed to pay for this work, try to control it.