Choice 

What width to make the beds in the country. How to make warm beds in the country. Determination of soil maturity

Gardening in Russia is famous for the fact that people are constantly adopting various low-cost ways to increase productivity. The so-called warm beds have earned high popularity. Their device is designed in such a way that early heating of the soil occurs with natural (from rotting organic matter) or artificial (with the help of an energy carrier) heat.

In simple terms, a warm bed is a kind of compost pit that has drainage at the bottom and planting soil at the top. There are three options for compost beds for their placement relative to ground level:

  • raised above the surface;
  • buried;
  • mixed design (the base is at a depth, the top tower is located above ground level.

In any case, the filling of the beds will look like a layer cake, in which each layer is some kind of organic material.

Such beds are formed either in early spring or late autumn. Going into the winter with pre-prepared beds is very rational, because before freezing in the bowels of the structure, the process of decomposition of organic matter will already begin, and in the spring it will continue with renewed vigor.

Contents of organic warm beds

Approximate content of raised beds from bottom to top:

  • protection against rodents - mice and moles (use a metal or plastic mesh);

  • drainage layer (plant branches, large branches, logs, remains of old stumps and other bulk material);
  • insulating fabric (geotextile) or a layer of old newspapers and cardboard on top of it;

IMPORTANT. The insulating layer prevents the drainage layer from being flooded with water, and also prevents the germination of weeds.

  • sawdust, bark, chopped branches;
  • unripe organics - old foliage and various plant remains;
  • rotted compost;
  • garden soil or specially brought fertile soil.

IMPORTANT. The thickness of the top layer must be made such that the roots have enough space and they do not grow into the layer of unripened organic matter. Study in advance the specifics of those plants that you plan to plant on this bed.

Depending on the design, some layers can be eliminated. For example:

  • if the bed lies on the ground without deepening, then a drainage layer of bulk material is not needed. There is no need for cardboard - just cover the bottom of the bed with a protective coating against rodents, and then with a waterproof technical cloth so that irrigation water does not quickly go into the soil;

  • if the bed is of a mixed type (buried with elevation) - make sure that the ground level is somewhere between a layer of cardboard and unripe organic matter.

There are no strict rules. The main task of a novice designer of warm beds is to understand the whole principle of work:

  • layer sequence;
  • organization of the process of decay;
  • rodent protection;
  • thickness of each filler layer.

Most of the questions are related to how thick each layer should be. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to pay attention to key points:

  • top fertile soil with compost 15-25 cm (depending on the length of the roots going deep into the soil);
  • unripe organic matter (old leaves, etc.) with a layer about 12-15 cm thick;
  • a layer of old branches, sawdust - about 10-13 cm;
  • the lower drainage layer is from 5 to 10 cm.

Varieties

There are different versions of beds that give natural warmth from the inside. The choice of design depends on how much you are willing to spend time and effort on the result. Remember that any garden design is considered simultaneously as:

  • opportunity to increase yields;
  • a means of facilitating further garden work, increasing convenience;
  • aesthetic organization of plantations and plantings on the site.

Technologically the easiest option. What are the advantages of a warm bed of this type:

  • they are much easier to care for;
  • there is no need for hard work on digging the earth to a depth;

IMPORTANT. They are ideal in conditions when the soil is excessively swampy (inside the contour of a warm bed, an optimal environment is created due to the selection of fillers, and the bottom is covered with insulating material).

  • it is easy to create clear geometric shapes (important for lovers of the delights of landscape design);

  • it is much easier to protect plant roots from mice and moles.

buried beds

The most difficult option in terms of labor costs. However, the result is more solid:

  • under the ground level, organic matter does not freeze as much as in raised beds, so the process of heat release begins much earlier in the spring;
  • once you dig a trench and fill it with organic materials, you don’t have to worry about repeated work for several years (shelf life is about 3-4 years without the need to change the internal contents);
  • saving time and effort on the side frame of the beds, because. you can do without it (if the surface of the beds is flush with the level of the surrounding ground).

mixed type

This option is considered optimal:

  • the buried part plays a long-term role (it is not necessary to dig it up every spring);
  • the elevation of the upper fertile part allows you to process the bed with less effort;

IMPORTANT. Working in a sitting position is relevant for older people. Often they suffer from atherosclerosis and other vascular diseases, in which the head down position is contraindicated.

  • the recommended height of the part protruding above the surface is approximately 55-70 cm;

  • the towering part will have to be decorated with side walls, that is, an aesthetically attractive view will be obtained - the garden or vegetable garden will look more stylish, pleasing to the eye with landscape design.

materials

A very important aspect is what to make the contour of the beds from. Although there are a wide variety of materials on the market, they have different properties:

  • aesthetic appearance;
  • financial high cost/cheapness;
  • fragility / durability;
  • temperature response;
  • safety from an environmental point of view.

IMPORTANT. Never use glass. The risk of a battle is great, and it is simply unrealistic to remove small fragments from the soil.

The final decision is always yours, and let it be balanced. Brief overview of materials applying for use:


DIY garden bed

In this article, we will consider a mixed type construction:

  • deepened by the base;
  • having an above-ground part;
  • wooden side frame.

This guide will help you better understand general scheme and details of working with various materials.

Preparation for work

Tools and material:

  • carpentry (saw, drill, level, screwdriver, measuring tape, corner);
  • garden (shovel, rake, pitchfork, garden cart for transporting compost and other filler materials, earth drill);
  • edged board 2-2.5 cm thick, 17-20 cm wide;
  • bar 4x4 cm for stakes;
  • metal or plastic mesh from rodents.

Bed sizes:

  • in width, it is important that it is convenient to work with the bed when growing plants. It is optimal if the bed is no wider than 1.0-1.3 m. In narrow places of the site (for example, near the fence), you can make beds 70 cm wide. Even with one-sided access, plantings will receive necessary care and care of the gardener.
  • the length is arbitrary - as far as the configuration of your garden plot allows.

  • as mentioned above, the ground part of the beds is recommended with a height of 50-75 cm;
  • however, this recommendation is not mandatory. Especially considering the fact that the thickness of the inner layers varies. Therefore, the bed can also be placed inside a lower contour (20-35 cm).

IMPORTANT. Plan ahead, so it will be easier for you to implement your plans without wasting time on rework and refinement.

Frame manufacturing

Please note that the sides of the beds will have to be made from a double board, that is, one board should be placed vertically above the other so that the height of the walls is sufficient. Thus, you have to do the following:

  • measure the desired length, cut the boards (4 pcs. side, 4 pcs. end);

  • prepare stakes from a bar 4x4 cm, 75-80 cm long;

IMPORTANT. How many stakes will be required? With a bed length of 2-2.5 meters, 6 pieces are enough. With a bed length of 3.5-4 meters, 8 pieces are enough.

  • make two-level boards by connecting two boards together (use cutting boards, loosened with a hatchet into planks);

  • keep in mind that the screws should not go beyond the drilled wood (when buying self-tapping screws, remember that the thickness of the board is 2.5 cm, and it must be multiplied by two, since the connecting strips will be the same thickness).

This completes the preparation. It will be necessary to install the frame directly into the trench - in the same place to make fastening at the corners of the structure. Measuring angle and level will help you to maintain accuracy.

Trench and its filling

Step by step:

  • make a marking of the beds or beds (basting with the help of a peg and a stretched cord will allow you to dig a trench of an even geometric shape);

  • it is desirable to dig a trench so that its depth is about 40-45 cm;

  • lay down a mesh from rodents (it is sold in hardware stores, ask for a reinforcing mesh or chain-link);
  • create a drainage layer (see details above) - coarse, long-ripening organic matter;
  • cover with old newspapers, cardboard;

  • install side walls;
  • drill holes for support stakes;

  • at the corners of the structure, connect the boards and stakes with self-tapping screws;
  • use a corner and a level so that the structure “sits” in the ground exactly both horizontally and perpendicular to the connecting corners;
  • continue to fill the raised part of the beds;
  • add dry grass, foliage and other unripe organics;

  • further - humus, manure or compost;
  • the final layer is high-quality garden soil.

IMPORTANT. In fertile areas, before starting trenching, carefully remove the top layer of earth, set it aside. This is the turf you use for planting.

After all the steps, do not forget to water the bed with water to create a humid environment. Under such conditions, the process of decay inside will begin. Do not try to moisten each layer with water as the trench fills. There is no hurry, let everything go at a moderate speed. There is still time before planting, and the contents of the garden bed should just rot and be loose, and not rot in a viscous slurry.

Video - Do-it-yourself warm beds

Warm beds with artificial heating

The concept is that:

  • water pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are laid on the drainage layer;
  • the pipe structure is connected to the electrical cable;
  • heating is controlled by the user (turning on and off the heat supply - as needed, depending on the temperature of the soil).

IMPORTANT. Artificial heating is optimally suited for covered (tented) beds and greenhouses - the heat generated by the pipes is stored inside the system, and is not dispersed in the open air.

The order and list of fillers may vary. In any case, the most important layers should remain:

  • lower drainage (it is laid directly on natural soil);
  • additional insulation (prevents cooling of the “layer cake” from below, from the ground);
  • sand (occupies the location of the heating pipes) - plays the role of fine-grained drainage, helps to retain heat, promotes the passage of irrigation water to go down).

Only after all these components is a fertile layer of earth placed at the top.

  • in summer cottages it is advisable to use an electric cable (after all, cottage heating, as a rule, temporary and low-power);
  • in capital private houses, you can connect directly to the heating (do not forget to make a shut-off valve in case the house is heated, but the garden bed does not need to be heated at this time).

What type of heating is allowed? It can be of any type:

  • gas;
  • electrical;
  • steam;
  • water;
  • furnace.

Operating procedure

It's actually quite simple:

  • prepare layers (large drainage, synthetic insulation, sand);
  • lay water pipes. Scheme - closed circuit (provide circulation warm water round);

  • add some more sand on top;

  • the final layer is directly fertile soil. Use good-quality garden soil, as well as additional black soil. Keep in mind that the soil when heated should nourish the plants well;

  • connect the greenhouse piping to the heat source.

For lack of experience with electricity, invite more knowing person. If you understand the electrical work, the whole process will be elementary for you, and the design will turn out to be durable, efficient and reliable.

Spring for all summer residents and gardeners begins the same way: dig up all the land, divide it into beds, make a neat earthen roller for each. Then wait until the soil warms up, plant the plants and start fighting weeds that occupy the entire territory, including paths. But you can make improvements that will help you get more yield at less cost (labor, first of all).

Beds help us a lot when cultivating vegetable crops in greenhouses and gardens. Fencing beds (sides) do not allow the plant soil to crumble and maintain the required shape of the beds.

And with the right arrangement, they increase productivity.

garden bed sizes

Bed width

First, about the width of the beds. If there is an approach to the bed from two sides, then its width can be from 70 to 100 cm. Making a bed less than 70 cm is economically unprofitable, because the narrower the bed, the higher the cost of arranging 1 square. m beds. It is not advisable to arrange beds wider than 100 cm, because it is inconvenient to process the middle of the beds (stretch far). The beds, which can only be approached from one side, should have a width of 50-60 cm. Properly chosen width of the beds will contribute to better tillage, weeding, and, accordingly, an increase in yield.

Width of aisles between beds

The passages between the beds should allow you to move freely along them with tools and mow them with trimmers. The minimum is about 45 cm. The width of the passages depends on the height of the beds. The minimum width is permissible for beds up to 20 cm high. With higher sides of the beds, the passages should be 50 cm or more. After all, we constantly walk between beds with buckets and watering cans, and in a narrow passage between high beds we will have to lift buckets over the sides and carry them on outstretched arms. Properly chosen width of passages between the beds will contribute to their better processing, which, in turn, will lead to higher yields.

Bed height

The most common height of the beds is about 15-20 cm. It would be great, of course, to have beds 70-80 cm high and work them standing up, but this will require a lot of labor. But a very real height of 30-40 cm will allow you to take care of the plants while sitting on a stool or, for example, on a folding chair, which can be very important for older gardeners. Such high beds are usually arranged with a heating bottom layer. In addition to the opportunity to prepare in such a bed a kind of nutritious "pie" that is extremely useful for plants, high beds are easier to work with, which will also lead to increased yields.

Bed length

The length of the beds can be very different. It is determined by the configuration of the site, its relief and other reasons. Most often, the length of the beds is from 4 to 8 meters. It is better if the bed is oriented from south to north, then the sunlight will illuminate the plants more evenly.

Longitudinal slope of beds

It will be ideal if there is no slope of the beds in the transverse and longitudinal directions. In any case, this is what we should strive for. Permissible slope 2-3 cm per 1 meter. With a larger slope, the water during irrigation will flow down the slope, and the plants in the lower part of the bed will receive more moisture. But this is not always possible due to the terrain of the site. Then we place the beds across the slope of the terrain and plan the plot with terraces.

Garden fence material

The materials for the boards must be strong, as the boards are under heavy loads. Materials must be resistant to water, sun, frost, bacteria, mold and insects. They should last a long time and cost not very much. The most different materials, but we will consider the most common - wooden boards and flat slate.

Wood

Naturally, the most common material for making the sides of the beds is wood. A board with a section of 40x200 mm or 50x200 mm is perfect for this purpose. The main, but very significant drawback of such beds is fragility. If the boards are used without applying a protective layer, they will last no more than three years. And if you use strips of boards in areas with high levels of humidity, then the rotting process proceeds even faster. Changing the sides of the beds so often is an unaffordable luxury. You can, of course, treat the boards with an antiseptic, which will slightly increase their service life, but this "chemical stuffing" will inevitably get into the soil and, accordingly, into your plants. So it's worth thinking ten times - Are you ready to eat this very "protection". Besides, in wooden planks, used to fence the beds, ants have a tendency to wind up and live, a real curse for any gardener ...

flat slate

An alternative to wooden beds is slate. For the manufacture of the sides of the beds, it is best to use flat slate 8 mm thick. The main advantage of this material is durability. He is not afraid of exposure to water, cold, insects, microorganisms and will serve you all your life. Another indisputable advantage is accessibility. It should also be noted that the cost of flat slate is low, so the purchase of special strips for beds will not hit your budget.

Bed strips

In order to get smooth paths and neat beds, gardeners today use special strips made from flat slate. In addition, they are attractive appearance. Thus, a plot with beds from such strips will become much more well-groomed and functional. Depending on the length of the beds, you can choose the optimal size of the strips.

The strips are produced with a length of 2.4 m and a width of 39 cm, as well as a length of 1.57 m and a width of 30 cm. They, as well as metal profiles for fastening, can be cut to the size of the beds at the points of sale.

P When using strips with a width of 30 cm, the supporting struts are installed, respectively, after 1.57 m. This distance is quite enough to create a solid structure, especially since the lower part of the side is buried in the ground, which gives it additional rigidity. Generally, bA large mass of earth is bursting and trying to squeeze out the sides of the beds from any material - be it wood, slate or even metal.If, when digging the earth, you stand on a bed, then the pressure will increase even more. Therefore, when using strips of flat slate with a width of 39 cm, it is necessary to install an additional support post in the middle of the strip, that is, through1.2 m. Naturally, the creation of such high beds should be justified, in a large volume of ordinary soil there is no special meaning. Such a bed should be "difficult" - with drainage, etc. But we'll talk about the features of the device of high beds a little later ...

To increase the rigidity of the slate sides, they are buried several centimeters into the ground, which also leads to the protection of the beds from weed roots. Usually, 3-5 cm of depth is enough, but it is clear that this depth will most often be different along the length of the side, a perfectly flat surface is rare.

To connect the boards along the length, a galvanized profile is best suited - angular, respectively, for corners, and T-shaped for connecting strips along the length.

The sequence of construction of a new bed of flat slate.

In general, there are two options for arranging beds from slate strips. The first - we install the profile from the outside, while the strips can not be attached to the profile, they will be pressed against the ground. The second option - the profile is installed inside, while, of course, the strips must be bolted to the profile. To do this, you have to drill both the profile and the strips. The first method, of course, is less laborious, since you don’t have to mess around with a drill, bolts, and so on. But at the same time, the supporting profile will interfere with free passage along the aisles, although this is not a big problem- just in this case, the distance between the beds should be made wider.

In the second option, you will have to work hard, but the passage will remain free. Although this method also has a drawback - the profiles inside the beds will interfere with the process of digging the earth. But, since you still have to dig up the beds much less often than walk between them, and even mow the grass in the aisle, the second option may be preferable.

In general, at correct installation the profile may be in the passage if you use strips 39 cm wide and 2.4 m long. In this case, you need to make a passage of at least 60 cm. Or you can also cut the strips in half into segments of 1.2 m. Then the need for intermediate supporting racks disappear.

Although the choice, of course, is yours.

Filling the beds

  • To protect against rodents, a metal mesh is laid on the bottom.
  • As the bottom draining layer is laid wood waste: shredded branches, bark and so on.
  • The next layer is paper waste, which makes it difficult for weeds to germinate.
  • Peat mixture with soil or immature compost is laid in the middle.
  • The top layer is the soil removed before the trenching with the addition organic fertilizers. If it is not enough, then you will have to supplement the brought ones.

Each layer, except for the last one, is successively spilled with water and compacted.

row spacing

The soil between the rows is compacted tightly.

Free space can be concreted, covered with gravel, sawdust or laid with a terrace board. Or whatever your heart desires. For example, sow lawn grass. In this case, the aisles should be wide enough for the convenience of trimming.

Benefits of flat slate beds

The benefits of beds made from strips of flat slate are obvious.

First of all, you have a reliable and durable fence for your garden, which, thanks to its physical characteristics completely unaffected by natural disturbances. Such strips for beds are an indispensable material for the formation of beds and garden paths. Slate does not rot, does not deform and does not let moisture through at all, it is durable, waterproof, does not burn, and protects against rodents. The installation of beds and paths from strips is very simple and allows you to easily and quickly change, and, if necessary, transfer the structure from place to place.

Second advantage lies in the fact that by raising the ground level in such a bed above the usual one, you give yourself the opportunity to take care of the bed - loosen, mulch, plant seedlings without bending your back, and even sitting on a chair.

But, besides this, such high beds have other advantages over the usual:

  • the ability to fully control the composition of the soil, adding substances necessary for plant growth;
  • good drainage will not allow water to stagnate, regardless of whether the planting site is located in a lowland or on a hill;
  • raised beds with good layer compost have a soil temperature higher than the soil around; this allows plants in cold areas to feel more comfortable and give faster bountiful harvest; seedlings in warm soil can be planted earlier;
  • the high level of the bed eliminates walking on it, the earth remains very loose for optimal air exchange;
  • climbing plants can not be tied up, planted along the edge of the beds, they hang freely down.

Third, and, perhaps, most importantly, the advantage of such beds is that the slate does not let water through. Therefore, you can not worry about your garden in hot and dry weather. At the same time, it was noticed that at the edge of the beds, that is, near the sides of flat slate, the plants grow better than in the center of the beds. This is due to the fact that dit slate, like any other concrete product, accumulates heat, and at night gives it to your plants. So you are guaranteed a higher yield.

Also, using 8mm thick flat slate over 4cm boards gives you a gain of over 6cm in both width and length. It seems a little. But this is in every garden! So the addition of usable garden space can be very significant and important, especially for owners of small plots.

And, finally, such a bed of flat slate can simply be a decoration for your site. It can be easily painted, for example, in different colors or even paint. But keep in mind that you first need to clean the surface of the slate from dust with a stiff brush or a brush on a drill. And on the edges of the sides - put on a cut rubber hose, you can use different colors.

Several ordinary or high slate beds turn the site into a compact plant for the production of vegetables or berries.

Gardener and gardener with many years of experience Sergey Nikolaevich:

- Previously, I had to spend a lot of time and effort to dig up the entire garden, it was a real hard labor. The brought land for the next year was no longer enough, but the harvest was still - only tears. And now - grace, a resort. Sitting on a chair, I process these wonderful beds for my own pleasure. The land is light, and the yields are such that I’m already thinking of reducing the number of beds, and in return to arrange a lawn for the grandchildren and flower beds for beauty ...

The copyright holder of all site materials is Construction Rules LLC. Full or partial reprinting of materials in any sources is prohibited.

How to issue beautiful beds for the lazy, the beds are high and smart - this is what a gardener needs to know who wants to make his life as independent as possible from garden worries. If you wish, you just need to master the way to design lazy beds, which you can see in the following photos. A bed of this type will allow you to enjoy a well-deserved rest in the country and will not require weeding every time. In addition, it is not only convenient, but also increases the productivity of crops.

Everyone knows how much time and effort should be devoted to each planted crop, which, however, sometimes does not even justify the result: seedlings may not germinate or may not end up with a normal amount of harvest. In this case, you should pay attention to the technology of lazy beds on your site!

Nice and comfortable

The lazy bed is a completely new approach to gardening that will allow seedlings to grow on their own and yield several times more. It is based on the rule that says that it is impossible to dig and weed the earth, except for its preparation and planting itself. Even if constant weeding can remove weeds and fluff up the earth, sooner or later it will dry out and will not be able to provide sufficient moisture for crops.

In this approach, the very preparation for future planting is very important - it is advisable to do this in the fall, when you can collect material for mulching the soil (you need to cover it with straw, sawdust, cones, etc.), which, in turn, will prevent weeds to germinate in an area with such a cover.

  1. Install your own irrigation system. It is not necessary to choose the most expensive systems available in stores. In the case of such vegetable gardens, those from which you only need to press a button are quite suitable - and there will be no need to water with your own hands. Watering will allow you to make beautiful beds: green and lush. Also worth noting: watering can be done infrequently, but plentifully, giving the plants the necessary moisture until your next visit.
  2. A tool for working in the garden is a guarantee of saving time. Therefore, it is worth choosing one inventory and for many years. It can include not only the usual shovel and buckets, but also various little things that will make your work easier. Also find a place for inventory in advance.
  3. At the beginning of the planting season, dig up the ground once, prepare it for future seedlings or seeds. Plant plants and no longer disturb the ground: mulching will do its job and keep weeds out. All that remains for you before the harvest is to water the beds in the country on time.

    4. It's interesting and effective method, which is suitable for both lazy gardeners and experienced, knowledgeable gardeners. A bed of this type will justify the efforts made and can bring a lot of amenities.

    High bed as a way to get an intensive harvest

    Although this is a very time-consuming process at first - building the frame itself and watering the beds, but it is she who will allow you to forget about the bad climate and low yields.

    The high bed is always under the rays of the sun, which contributes to the warming of the earth layer, so it can be planted already in April without fear of freezing, and the lower mesh will prevent the invasion of moles and mice. A not too wide frame (within 150 cm) will allow you to take care of the garden bed on both sides. If you divide it into two strips of 80 cm wide - you can even do it yourself greenhouse by passing the film over both landings. It is worth noting that it is high beds that give the earliest harvest, first of salads, and then of fastidious vegetables. The only problem is more frequent watering, since water does not linger in such soil for a long time.

    Despite all the difficulties at the beginning, the landing justifies the efforts invested in it and serves for a long time without bringing much trouble, and the garden bed has a beautiful view.

    Digging up a smart bed for fragrant herbs is necessary only once, before planting seedlings. Further, it requires a minimum of attention and care.

You can create a picturesque unique corner with beds in the country as quickly as possible, without unnecessary labor and money. We offer several design options for beautiful garden beds, which any summer resident can implement.

Garden beds: site preparation and formation features

Soil preparation is the most time-consuming stage. The labor expended will pay off with a high yield of vegetables and a lush growth of flower crops.

Primary double digging work for a raised bed:

  • determine the structure of the soil;
  • moisten the area well with a spray and let dry for 2 days;
  • loosen with a fork to a depth of 30 cm and remove all weeds;
  • water the site and let the earth dry out for a day;
  • add a layer of 5 cm, add sand to the clay soil with a layer of 2.5 cm and mix everything to a depth of 30 cm;
  • water moderately and leave to dry for a day;
  • dig the first trench 30 cm wide and deep, transfer the soil to the end of the bed, pour the soil from the second trench into the first;
  • loosen the subsoil layer with a pitchfork to a depth of 30 cm;
  • do the same for the rest of the trenches;
  • cover the last trench with soil from the initial one;
  • water in moderation and let stand for a day;
  • apply fertilizer, loosen to a depth of 12 cm and tamp and level with a board, standing on it with all its weight (to remove excess air).

Plants can be planted after 1-2 hours. In order not to compact the soil, they dig up the bed, standing on the board. All work on digging the beds takes from 7 to 12 hours.

Optimal dimensions beds - 90–150 cm wide, 100 cm long, 5–25 cm above the soil surface. With this option, with improved structure and aeration, a favorable microclimate is formed under the cover of densely planted plants.

Narrower beds (45–75 cm) are made for plants that are tied to supports.

It is important to determine the type of soil and the level of acidity:

  1. On stony soils there are up to 30 stones per 1 m².
  2. The peat soil is dark brown or gray in color, has a spongy texture and is rich in plant residues.
  3. Poorly drained covered with moss or green coating. It grows rushes and sedges.
  4. On alkaline soils, clover predominates among weeds, and on acidic soils, sorrel, plantain or creeping.
  5. On fertile soil, stinging nettle, white gauze, sow thistle and wood lice grow wildly.

The mechanical composition of the soil is determined by manual test:

  • heavy loam - rolls into a dense ball without shine, which can be rolled into a cord;
  • medium loam - there is no graininess of sand, the ball is dense, it collapses when rolling into a cord;
  • light loam - the ball is stable, but a granular structure is felt, in wet weather it does not stick to shoes in large pieces;
  • dusty loam - rolls into a weak ball, silky and soapy to the touch;
  • sandy loam - a dense ball, rough to the touch, sticks to shoes in wet weather;
  • sand - does not roll into a ball, the graininess of sand is felt;
  • clay - sticks to shoes in wet weather, the ball is strong, shiny.

Soil imperfections are easy to fix:

  • loams are enriched by applying humus-containing organic fertilizers;
  • sandy soils are dug up in spring, and not in autumn, they add a lot of organic matter - 10–15 cm (peat, humus, rotted manure), close up during cultivation and then apply mulching;
  • clay soil in 3–4 years, with the application of organic fertilizers every autumn (up to 15 cm layer), will turn into fertile soil.

The soil in the beds should be with small lumps before sowing, but not broken into dust.

How to prepare the soil for planting (video)

Ready-made purchased beds: advantages, disadvantages and types of structures

Ready-made beds, which can be purchased in specialized stores, greatly facilitate the work of the gardener and allow you to keep the garden well-groomed without any hassle, which is especially important for lazy gardeners.

Borders from various materials prevent soil erosion after rains and weeds.

  1. Beds made of planed boards with a thickness of 2.5 to 5 cm from pine or larch wood. An antiseptic that covers the garden bed from the inside and outside protects it from rotting and mold for 6 years. Individual customer requests are taken into account.
  2. To form the boundaries of the beds and divide into separate segments, a flexible Ecolat profile with dimensions of 25m × 14cm × 0.7 cm or 25m × 19cm × 0.7cm is used.
  3. Galvanized strips are light and easy to assemble. They can be left under the snow. Suitable for both greenhouses and open ground. You can cover with a film, using the bed as a greenhouse.
  4. The panel garden plastic is steady against differences of temperatures. Garden structures of various shapes are created due to the flexibility of the material.
    Beautiful garden beds: the art of joint planting of vegetable crops

A reasonable combination of crops that have different requirements for growing conditions will prevent soil depletion. In joint plantings, plants have a beneficial effect on each other.

Mixed fit options:

  • Strawberries planted in 2 rows in August. Parsley is sown between them in the spring. Which repels slugs.
  • One row of lettuce is planted in the center of the bed, and a tomato plant is planted every meter. Around him - 2 rows of spinach. Followed by 2 rows of cauliflower. The composition is completed by 2 rows of chives mixed with radish. The second sowing is carried out after adding compost.

Thus, with joint plantings per unit area, a high total yield of vegetables is obtained.

Along the path leading to the house or against the background of the fence, you can place a vegetable mixborder on a high bed. Slab, stone or paving slabs – suitable option framing. The width of the beds is 80 cm. A one-sided mixborder is being built along the fence. Tall plants (corn, sunflower, dahlias, gladioli) are planted in the first row. This is followed by tomatoes, cabbage, carrots, table beets, mixed with beetroot and lobelia. The composition is framed by radishes, lettuce, parsley, dill, fennel, lovage.

How to make beautiful garden beds

It happens that land holdings have a complex terrain - hills or elevations. With vertical harmonization of country, garden and private plots apply geoplastics - artificial modeling of the territory. Here you can not do without original and unusual beds. Flat, like a table, a plot of land may seem boring - you can transform it yourself with the help of.

Arrangement of an earthen column:

  • in the center of a strong bag without a bottom, 120 cm long and 30–50 cm wide, place plastic pipe for irrigation with a diameter of 5–10 cm, with holes of 8 mm;
  • pour perlite into the tube, which retains moisture well and gradually releases it into the soil;
  • fill the column bag with turf and leafy soil mixed with humus, mineral fertilizers and any anti-compacting agent;
  • on the walls of the bag, pierce cross-shaped holes with a diameter of 3 cm at a distance of 10 cm from each other;
  • plant seeds, root suckers, stepchildren for.

The walls of an earthen column can be woven from a vine or a frame can be made from stakes or battens.

You can limit the edges of the beds by using various objects that have served their purpose. An old cart, a cast iron pot, or a faience sink will do. With the help of such beds, placed in any corner of the garden, you can significantly increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site.

Round and triangular beds

The beds of strict geometric shapes correspond to the laws of regular design. Round, triangular, bed-peninsula, can be raised or located at ground level. The paths between the beds are paved with tiles or covered with gravel, sand - any available materials.

Options for decorative railings and sides

You can grow potatoes, bulbs or herbs in pots, tubs or wicker baskets.

A bed made from an ordinary strong bag is mobile and can be located anywhere.

They are made from cobblestones, colored bricks or stained or painted slabs. Fences made of wooden chocks will allow you to make a bed of any shape and configuration.

Old tires are painted in any color. They can be scattered around the site or build a pyramid of several pieces.

How to make beds with your own hands (video)

Wooden pyramidal beds

A vertical pyramidal bed with differences in ground level is constructed from wood. The sides are made from boards or old boxes without a bottom. Most often, the pyramid is built from 5 tiers. Pyramid beds are well warmed by the sun, but need more intensive watering. The wood must be impregnated with an antiseptic that is safe for plants.

Making beds in boxes

The look of a drawer is easy to give to an old kitchen sink. Falling plants are placed in plastic boxes- you just need to cut the bottom and put them on top of each other in two tiers. Hanging boxes attached to a wall or fence will expand the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site.

The boxes must be washed well and treated with antiseptics.

Features of the design of beds for roses and other flowers

Roses are grown in containers or on a variety of materials - wood, plastic, stone and metal.

Container depth:

  • for miniature roses is 25 cm;
  • for undersized patio roses - 30 cm;
  • for medium-sized roses - at least 40 cm.

To ensure drainage, the container is placed on bars, or broken bricks or gravel are poured onto the bottom. The soil should contain compost or peat and the necessary mineral fertilizers.

Along the edge of the garden, you can plant spring or summer flowers, or ampelous plants.

High beds: advantages and disadvantages (video)

The beds are located on a site well warmed by the sun, away from tree and shrub plantings. In dry weather, water as the soil dries.

Growing vegetables and flowers in your own garden is not only aesthetically pleasing, but also saves a lot of money. The costs of seeds, fertilizers, and arrangements eventually pay off on average eight times.

Gardening is a favorite hobby of many of our fellow citizens. In other years, only having your own garden plot allowed you to keep the family budget afloat, but today the garden can be considered as a source of fresh and environmentally friendly products for the family table.

But in order to get a rich harvest, it is very important to master the competent technology of tillage, because otherwise you will not be able to ensure a normal vegetative process for the crops you grow. In particular, it is very important to know how to properly make beds in the garden. This article is devoted to consideration of this issue.

Initial soil preparation

If you are going to use some area for beds, it must be processed and dug up as carefully as possible, simultaneously freeing it from debris, roots of plants and trees. If you plan to make beds on a site on which some backyard buildings previously stood, you will have to spend a lot of time cleaning it from construction debris. As a rule, in this case, a lot of glass, bunches and remnants of boards remain in the ground. All this must be removed.

In addition, after that it is desirable to bring a layer of normal soil there, from which the beds will be formed. Of course, you can try to grow plants on the remaining soil, but its fertility will be a big question.

What should be paid special attention to?

Before you properly make beds in the garden, it is very important to prepare the bottom layer of soil. The fact is that with its strong compaction, moisture will constantly linger on the beds. In dry years, this is good, but the rest of the time there will be a constant risk to plants, as their roots can simply rot.

For loosening, it is advisable to use a cultivator, since it will be very difficult to manually loosen the earth properly. Important! If this is your first time making beds in this place, it is advisable to give the soil for research: it may be too acidic or alkaline. It is better to immediately add appropriate additives to it, because otherwise it will not be possible to grow a rich harvest.

Among other things, we would recommend planting green manure on newly cultivated lands. In their quality, it is best to use alfalfa or other legumes. No need to sow rye, as it makes the soil very acidic. An exception can be made only for highly alkaline soils. Of course, in this case, all agricultural activities take much more time, but all costs are paid off.

When the issue with the soil is completely resolved, you can start marking the beds.

Of course, the creation of beds always begins with delineating the boundaries and digging, but it is important to remember that high crop yields can largely depend on other factors. Before you properly make beds in the garden, it is also important to choose their location in relation to the cardinal points. This issue should not be approached lightly, since the yield of plants depends on the correct choice of location.

Let's give some generally accepted rules that should be followed when creating sites for growing various crops. So, ridges for vegetables are located in the direction from north to south. It is best to make them rectangular. It is believed that it is more convenient to process the ridges if they have a width of 1.2 m. The length can be any, it all depends on your preferences and the size of the site.

They make at least 40 cm wide, but it is preferable to provide even wider passages, since in this case it is possible to strengthen the edges of the ridges with boards or slate.

Approximately the same requirements apply to the breakdown of flower beds or rabatok. Of course, it is much better to make their corners rounded, since those look much better. Before you properly make beds in the garden, it is best to outline their future boundaries with twine and a few pegs. Don't forget to indent as otherwise you won't have room for aisles.

What to do if you arrange a bed in a former meadow?

Important. In this case, it is necessary to carefully remove the sod. Make it into compost: this fertilizer contains a huge amount of nutrients that contribute to a significant increase. Here's how to make a good bed that will give you a great harvest!

Digging up the soil should start from the edge of the string stretched along the border. The shovel must be worked in such a way that a neat and well-defined line is obtained. In this way, we dig the entire border of the garden. Be sure to pay attention to how dense the earth is at the depth of the shovel bayonet. If there is a lot of clay there, you will have to dig two or three bayonets of a shovel deep into. Or use a cultivator or even a tractor.

We use a chopper or a hoe!

After removing the layer of sod, you will find that there is quite decent, but still somewhat dense soil under it. If the soil is too compact, it is preferable to work it with a hoe, as in this case you tear the roots of the plants, and the structure of the soil becomes much better. Since it is not easy to make a garden bed with your own hands, you need to purchase everything in advance necessary tools for tillage.

In a word, the creation of beds is a rather troublesome and time-consuming business. Therefore, it is worth taking care of preserving the results of your work, strengthening the resulting ridges. The easiest way to use the boards is to hammer in pegs to support them. But much more durable is the blind area made of bricks or natural stone. Besides, she looks much prettier.

When making a garden with your own hands (including beds), do not forget about the accuracy of your work. Such household plot will give you a lot of positive emotions!

And how to make beds in the garden, if you want to get a harvest from them as early as possible, starting from April-May?

We make warm beds

In order to get a rich harvest and cucumbers in our middle zone, the natural growing season is not enough, because the earth warms up too late and freezes quickly. Since it is not difficult to make a warm bed, you can correct this annoying misunderstanding without spending money on building a greenhouse or even a greenhouse.

By the way, what is it? In this case, before starting the development of the site, it is necessary to dig a ditch 40-50 cm deep, which completely repeats the contours of the future bed. Layers of manure are laid there, which must be alternated with the remains of tops, rotten wood and similar organic residues. You can also use kitchen waste.

Before you make a warm bed, you can also purchase it. It heats up best. Having thrown a layer of waste flush with the edges of the ditch, we lay fertile soil on top of them, and the thickness of its layer should be at least 40 cm, otherwise the roots of the plants may burn out.

Further actions

After that, we cover the finished bed with a film and leave it for a couple of days. When the ground warms up noticeably, you can plant seedlings. It is better to combine this method with the installation of a film shelter. In this case, planting can begin almost immediately after the snow melts and the strong morning frosts disappear.

Here's how to make beds in the garden. There are some difficulties with this, but as a result you will get an excellent harvest of your own vegetables.