Installation 

How to make a box for pipes in a plastic bathroom with your own hands. Options for creating a piping box in the bathroom Decorative piping boxes in the bathroom

The appearance of the bathroom can hardly be called beautiful because of the pipes that can be seen from everywhere. If you hide them, then the bathroom can be transformed. Therefore, they use a drywall box in the bathroom. It allows you to hide sewer drains, risers and water pipes. Also, with the help of a box, you can think of additional lighting.

The box is mainly needed so that the ugly pipes are hidden and not frightened by their appearance. Moreover, even after sewing the pipes, you have the opportunity to install shelves on the box. So this design is multifunctional.

You can always leave the hatch to have access to water meters

If you make a vertical box in a drywall bathroom with your own hands, then it can be equipped with additional spotlights that will create a unique atmosphere. You can also resort to the classic version, when the lighting is located on a horizontal structure. In both options, it is necessary to get confused with the lamps themselves, because the necessary special materials, fixtures and equipment for working in rooms with a high moisture content.

Summing up the intermediate result, we can say that the drywall box in the bathroom has the following functional purposes:

  1. Hides sewer pipes.
  2. Hides water pipes.
  3. Serves as a base for shelves.
  4. Serves as the basis for lighting.

Depending on the need, the box can be vertical or horizontal, small or large, narrow or wide. It also depends on how it is installed. It is one thing to make a thin box for a drywall bath and quite another to mount a wide box right under the ceiling.

Preparatory work

In order for the workflow to go quickly and without hitches, you need to prepare in advance so as not to get stuck in the process. It all starts with a drawing. It's very simple. You already know which pipe you need to hide, so it remains only to think about the dimensions of the future structure, it is enough to step back from the pipe by 2-5 centimeters in both directions and fix the profile there. Such a distance will be quite enough, and there is no need for us to hide the place.

When sheathing a vertical pipe, it is necessary to use a plumb line, because it can have a certain slope. The pipe will recede as much as possible from the wall near the floor or ceiling. From this place you need to step back a couple of centimeters, and then move the point to the opposite surface.

The drawing itself can be created on a sheet for greater clarity, or you can make all the markings on the wall without using the drawing. Before you make a drywall box for pipes in the bathroom, you need to mark up. We will consider the option with pipes that run vertically in the corner, because this situation occurs in the vast majority of cases.


 Marking for the box in the middle of the room

As already mentioned above, with the help of a plumb line, points on the floor and on the ceiling near the walls are indicated. With this simple device they will be clearly opposite each other, which will create an even frame. Then, using a paint cord or a profile with a pencil, parallel lines are drawn on the walls, which will indicate the place where the guides are attached.

Now, from the marked points, you will need to draw lines on the floor and ceiling so that they form a right angle in both cases.

After a simple markup, you need to cut the GKL into strips of the required size so as not to fool around in small space with large leaves. It is necessary to cut two strips for the entire length of the sheet along the width of the box. You will also need a couple more small pieces, the length of which depends on the height of the ceiling. For a box of 25 * 25 cm, one standard sheet of drywall is enough. The material is still there.

Frame installation

The drywall box in the bathroom has the same assembly principle, regardless of whether the riser or the wiring pipes are hidden. For work you will need:

  • self-tapping screws for metal;
  • dowel;
  • guide and rack profiles;
  • metal scissors;
  • screwdriver and perforator;
  • level.

 Profiles are joined to each other at right angles.

A solid guide profile is attached along the lines on the wall. For its installation, it is necessary to take dowels 40 mm long and fasten the guides with them in increments of 50-60 cm to the wall. After that, the same profile, but much shorter in length, is fixed in two places on the floor and in two places on the ceiling along the existing lines. Two dowels in each of the four profiles will be enough ( even if the length of the guide is 20 cm, two dowels are needed, one is not enough). At the junction of the profiles, they do not need to be screwed to each other, this will be done at the time of plasterboard sheathing.

Condensation often appears on the pipes, which flows down. It is at the point of contact with the floor that the pipes begin to rot. Since we will not see this process, it must be prevented. To do this, the pipes are wrapped with corrugations for thermal insulation. Condensation will not appear and we don't have to worry about what happens to hidden pipes.

For greater structural strength, a rack profile is inserted parallel to two guides on the walls. When assembling a drywall box in the bathroom, we connected two short profiles at a right angle at the bottom and top. And one of them ran into the other. The rack profile must be inserted into this very different guide so that it is at the very corner of the structure. For these purposes, it is the CD profile that is needed, and not the UD profile that we used earlier. The central (corner) post is not really attached to anything, so it must be stiffer than the rest of the frame.

If you do not glue the tiles on the box, then you can use the usual guides

The rack will be firmly fixed during the installation of drywall. It will go into the guides quite tightly and will not fall out. Of course, you need to choose a rack profile of such a size that it fits snugly into the guide. UD 27*28 and CD 60*27 are in this case classics of the genre. We use a level all the way so that the structure comes out without distortions.

Jumpers for extra strength and hatch

Many people prefer to prepare a sufficient number of jumpers before making a drywall box in the bathroom. But if you are new to this business, then it is better to cut the jumpers in the process. They should be installed in 40-60 cm increments between the B-pillar and the wall rails. As a result, the design will be more reliable. Drywall will be attached to the racks, which will make the surface of the box stronger and more even. The jumpers themselves can be made both from the CD profile and from the UD (whatever you have left). If the jumper is from a rack profile, then it easily enters the guides.


 Jumpers can be fastened with a notcher to avoid bumps from screw heads

If it is not possible to insert the jumper directly into the profile, then you need to cut off several centimeters of ribs from the jumper on both sides, while leaving its base. In other words, the side parts of the jumper are cut off so that they can go between the profiles and there is a tongue with which it can be attached. They need to be fixed with metal screws.

Sometimes it is required to leave a viewing window in the box for the counter or other needs. Therefore, it is necessary to mark in advance the place where the hatch will be located. Just insert jumpers along its top and bottom borders.

Plasterboard sheathing and finishing

Only moisture resistant drywall can be used. It traditionally has a greenish color. The cut sheets of GKL are fixed first on one side of the box, and then on the second. Moreover, it is necessary to make sure that the joints of the sheets are not at the same level (the design will come out more reliable). Moisture-resistant drywall is fastened with black self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long in 15 cm increments. Be sure to screw in the screws in all corners. As mentioned earlier, in this place not only the GKL is attached, but profiles are also fastened to each other. It is also necessary to fasten drywall in places where jumpers are installed.

The heads of the self-tapping screws must be driven into the drywall so that they do not tear it, but do not stick out either. It is ideal to screw in the screws so that the cap is pressed into the sheet by 1-2 mm. In this case, the structure will be convenient to putty, and it will not lose its strength characteristics.

Now it’s clear how to assemble a drywall box in the bathroom, but you need to prepare it for finishing. To do this, putty all the caps of the screws, as well as all the joints. It is advisable to chamfer the joints so that a small hollow is formed, where the putty is applied. Joints must be primed beforehand so that the putty holds better. A reinforcing mesh is used to reinforce the joints.

Careful attention must be paid to all points in preparation for finishing. The above procedures should be followed carefully, and then the entire GKL box should be primed and puttied again. After all, it will be in the bathroom, so good protection from moisture is required. Relying on moisture-resistant drywall and not thinking about anything else will not work. Very often the box is finished with tiles, and these are high loads. Therefore, the design must be durable, and the putty should not lag behind. Do not forget the antifungal additives, but these are the nuances of the finish.

If you need to sheathe more than one pipe and the design of the box seems complicated, then this video can help you deal with such nuances.

August 10, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high tech, computer technology, programming.

The best way to disguise utilities in a plumbing room is to construct a duct in the bathroom for pipes. Recently, I was doing repairs in a city apartment and designed a similar drywall construction there. The result is a fairly simple and functional design.

Features of the bathroom box

A sanitary room is a room with a specific microclimate, in which public utilities - water supply and sewerage - pass.

Control devices are also usually installed on the pipes in the bathroom (hot and cold water) and control ( shut-off valves). And herself engineering system requires periodic maintenance - monitoring the integrity of connections, cleaning filters, replacing damaged areas, and so on.

In this regard, the bathroom box must meet several important requirements:

  1. Occupy minimum space. Given the small area of ​​​​the plumbing room, the design must be made in such a size that it does not take up free space. But at the same time, the sheathing and profiles must be at least 3 cm away from the pipes.
  2. Provide free access to engineering systems. The design of the box should be such that you or a plumber can easily access pipes, meters and taps for inspection or repair. It is better if the box is removable, but in extreme cases it is necessary to install a sufficient number of inspection doors.
  3. Be safe.
  4. To harmonize with the decorative finishes of the bathroom.

There are many more requirements, but these, in my opinion, must be taken into account without fail.

Choosing the Right Material

Now let's figure out what to make a box from. Most often I had to design it for pipes from plastic panels and drywall.

A plastic box is more suitable for a riser in a sanitary room, the walls and ceiling of which are finished with the same material. Then the interior of the bathroom will look holistic and harmonious.

I prefer to use drywall. This material, when compared with plastic panels, has more advantages, which I have listed in the table:

Characteristic Description
Ease of installation Plasterboard sheets are easily fixed on a frame made of galvanized profiles, so they can be used to construct a box of any shape and size. You do not need to have any special skills or use sophisticated engineering equipment.
light weight Plasterboard sheets weigh a little, so they do not exert additional load on the structural elements of the building. And to hold them, thin and light galvanized parts are enough.
Flexibility When wetted with water and trimmed on one side of the gypsum plasterboard, it is possible to give a rounded shape by constructing a spectacular and unique box in the plumbing room, which will become central element design.
Smooth surface Drywall sheets have a perfectly flat surface, which facilitates their subsequent decorative processing of the box. You do not have to perform additional leveling with beacon plaster.
Variety of finishes The surface of the box made of plasterboard sheets can be decorated with any finishing material. Most often, tiles are glued to the GKL, but you can use wallpaper, paint, and lining (plastic or wood).
fire safety The described material consists of hardened gypsum and thin sheets of cardboard, therefore it is difficult to ignite in a fire and does not support combustion. Under the action of an open flame, it does not release toxic smoke and combustion products hazardous to health into the air.
Environmental friendliness The material has a zero level of formaldehyde emission, therefore it is completely safe for the human body both during installation and during further operation.
Affordable price The cost of drywall sheets is low, so anyone can afford this method of sheathing the box, even if the amount planned for repairing the toilet is small.

I note right away that for the construction of the box it is necessary to use moisture-resistant drywall, which is painted in green color. It better tolerates operation in conditions of high humidity and is specially designed for installation in sanitary facilities.

By the way, from plastic panels assembled from galvanized profiles, you can construct a wonderful box for linen. Including portable. If you choose the color of the panels to match the tiles or the color of the plumbing fixtures, such a container for dirty things will look quite natural in the bathroom.

Tools and additional materials

In addition to drywall, you will need other tools and materials. Personally, I use this set for work:

  1. UD profiles for constructing frame parts that run along walls and ceilings.
  2. CD-profiles for mounting the racks of the frame of the future box, as well as the manufacture of stiffening elements for the future design.
  3. Dowel-nails or screws with plastic dowels, with which wall profiles will be fixed to the surface.
  4. Building level. It is best to use a laser, but a regular water one is also quite suitable. A long tool is more suitable, as you will have to mark the walls.
  5. Reinforcing tape for reinforcing joints between drywall sheets. It's called a sickle.
  6. Knife for cutting drywall sheets. An ordinary clerical knife with replaceable blades or a specialized tool will do.
  7. Perforator for drilling holes in reinforced concrete bathroom walls.
  8. Screwdriver for fastening drywall sheets to a constructed galvanized frame.
  9. Self-tapping screws for drywall. You will need ordinary ones (with a sharp tip) and special ones (their tip looks like a drill for metal). The latter are useful for mounting drywall sheets on the installation frame.
  10. Putty for drywall. It is used together with a serpyanka for sealing seams between sheathing sheets.
  11. Acrylic primer. It is used for surface treatment of plasterboards in order to reduce their absorbency and increase adhesion to tile adhesive (or other decorative material).
  12. Metal scissors. With their help, parts of suitable size are cut from long galvanized profiles.
  13. Spatulas. They are used for puttying drywall joints and gluing tiles.

Box mounting technology

This time I will tell you how the box is installed in a drywall bathroom, with which you can not only close the pipes, but also hide the installation for wall hung toilet(since the plumbing room in the case I described was combined).

I divided the installation technology of such a box into several successive stages, which are shown in the diagram below:

markup

I will start by marking the walls for the installation of U-shaped galvanized profiles. As I said, I will sheathe the installation along with the pipelines, to which the toilet is subsequently attached. Initially, the future battlefield looks like this:

Let's get to the markup. Despite the seeming simplicity of this process, the technology has several secrets that I want to talk about in more detail:

  1. I am marking the walls near the vertical pipes. This is done as follows:
    • First you need to find a section of the pipe that protrudes further than others, then measure a distance of 3-5 cm from it (the minimum allowable) and make a mark on the wall.

  • Using a laser or water level, a strictly vertical line should be drawn, which starts from the ceiling, passes through the mark made and ends at the floor.
  • Do the same with the adjacent wall. First, a mark is made indicating the surface of the future box, after which a strictly vertical line is drawn through it.

  1. I am marking the boundaries of the future box on the ceiling and floor. These will be guidelines for fixing the profiles on the surfaces mentioned. The scheme of work is as follows:
    • Near the ceiling, a square is applied to the line on the wall so that its long part is perpendicular to the bathroom wall.
    • After that, the square is set flush with the vertical line drawn on the wall.
    • Using a pencil, a line is drawn on the ceiling, along which it is subsequently necessary to fix the U-shaped profile.
    • Similarly, a line perpendicular to the wall is drawn from the adjacent wall. The markup should look like this.
    • After that, in a similar way, you need to mark the floor, on which profiles will also be installed to secure the frame of the future box.
  1. I mark the place of installation of profiles near the installation for the toilet. In this place, the box will occupy a minimum of free space in the bathroom, so the profiles will be installed on the same level with the border of the installation frame. The sequence of actions is as follows:
    • A square should be attached to the frame, focusing on which to beat off a mark on the bathroom wall, which will be flush with the frame.
    • According to the marks you need to draw lines on the wall.
    • Check the correctness of the markup using the water level. Marks must be strictly vertically and horizontally.

  1. When marking, you can focus not on the dimensions of the pipes, but on the geometric parameters of the tile. In this case, the marking of the boundaries of the structure is carried out as follows:
    • In the corner opposite to where the box will be placed, it is necessary to step back from the junction of the walls by about 1.2 cm (the thickness of the tile with the adhesive composition) and make a mark with a pencil. Then, through this risk, draw a vertical line along the entire wall - from the ceiling to the floor.

  • The distance from this mark to the intended location of the box is measured. After that, the resulting value is divided by the width of the tiles used for facing, plus 2 mm per seam between each.
  • Then a mark is placed for the box in such a way that after laying the tile there is no need to cut it. Or so that the cut tile is wide (that is, the cut off part is narrow). Thus, the box will look as organic as possible.

After marking is completed, you can proceed to the installation of galvanized profiles, on which drywall will subsequently be attached.

Profile mounting

Let's start with the installation of frame profiles that will sheathe vertical water and sewer pipes. The installation sequence is as follows:

  1. I install galvanized profiles on the floor of the room. To fix them, dowel nails will be used:
    • First you need to cut the U-shaped galvanized profile so that its length is equal to the length of the mark on the floor. You can cut out the part using scissors for metal.
    • After that, the cut piece is tried on to the place of its installation. If for some reason protruding parts interfere with its installation, a small section of the profile can be cut with scissors and bent with pliers.

  • Then the fitted part is pressed against the floor and straight through it into concrete surface using a perforator, a hole is made with a depth of 5 cm and a diameter that corresponds to the diameter of the selected dowels (usually 6 mm).

  • After that, a plastic dowel with a metal core is hammered into the hole, which will firmly hold the metal part in its intended place.
  • Holes are drilled in the same way and the remaining dowels are clogged. The distance between adjacent fasteners is approximately 20 cm.
  1. I install galvanized UD profiles on the ceiling of the room. The sequence of actions is described in the previous paragraph. It is very important to ensure that all profiles are installed strictly according to the markup. Otherwise, then there will be serious difficulties when installing intermediate profiles and fixing drywall sheets.
  2. I install vertical parts on the walls. This also requires UD profiles and dowel nails. The scheme of work is as follows:
    • A part is cut from the profile using scissors for metal, the dimensions of which correspond to the distance from the floor to the ceiling.
    • After that, the profile is inserted inside the parts that are already fixed to the ceiling and floor.

  • Then the profile is nailed to the surface with dowel-nails. First, it is better to drill a hole and hammer fasteners near the floor and ceiling itself so that the part is firmly held in place, and then make intermediate fasteners at a distance of about 20 cm from each other. At the same time, it is important to ensure that the galvanized profile is installed strictly along the line drawn on the wall.
  • After that, the vertical and horizontal parts must be fastened together using small self-tapping screws (“bugs”). To do this, it is necessary to squeeze the two parts together with pliers, and then screw a self-tapping screw into this place. If this is not done, the surface internal detail fasteners may bend when screwed into it.

  • If the length of the profile you have is not enough, then you can build a suitable part from two. To do this, they are inserted into each other at a distance of 15-20 cm. On the wall, this section must be strengthened with a separate dowel with a screw.
  1. I install a corner piece for the vertical part of the box. For it, not UD is used, but a CD profile, which has the necessary strength. The installation scheme is simple. It is necessary to cut the part to the desired length, then insert it into the profiles on the ceiling and floor, and then fasten it together with small self-tapping screws, as described in paragraph 3.4.
  2. I install intermediate stiffeners. They are made from CD-profiles. The vertical distance between adjacent elements is approximately 30 cm. They connect the profile near the wall with the central part and provide the necessary rigidity and strength of the structure during subsequent sheathing and operation. Make sure that the stiffeners are installed strictly horizontally. As a result, you should get something like this design (1 - wall profile, 2 - central profile, 3 - stiffener).

  1. I install galvanized profiles for the box that sews up the installation. The scheme of work here is even simpler:
    • First, UD-profiles are attached to the wall according to pre-made marks using dowel-nails or screws.
    • Then the installation corner is connected to the profiles on the wall with another piece. All of them are fastened to each other with self-tapping screws (in the figure below, the node numbered 1).
    • Please note that in the case I am describing, the frame for the cladding of the installation was fastened after the cladding of the vertical box with drywall. However, I describe this process here so as not to violate the logic of the presentation (in the figure below, the node numbered 2).

On this, the frame manufacturing process is completed and you can proceed to sewing it with drywall.

Fixing drywall sheets

How to attach drywall to the frame made:

  1. I carry out cutting GCR on parts of the desired size. Despite the seeming simplicity of this operation, it has several nuances, which I would like to dwell on in more detail:
    • First, using a tape measure, you need to measure the width of each surface of the resulting frame, and then transfer these dimensions to drywall sheets.

  • Then, along the resulting lines, the sheets are cut into parts. To do this, an aluminum rule (or level) is applied to the line, after which the cardboard layer on the plasterboard and part of the gypsum are cut with a knife. Then the part is turned over to the other side and broken. It remains only to cut off the second layer of cardboard and trim the end.

  • If necessary, technological holes must be made in the sheathing sheets before they are screwed to the frame. To do this, drywall is applied to the installation site, after which the areas to be removed are marked. Then they are cut out using the same knife or a piece of cloth from a saw blade for metal (you can’t imagine better for rounded holes).

  • Be sure to need holes for the installation of inspection doors. Usually they are cut in those places where there are meters or valves. It is also necessary to provide access to the revision holes in sewer pipes ah to clean them in case of clogging.

  1. I fasten drywall sheets to profiles and guides. The sequence of actions is as follows:
    • To fix the GKL on the frame, black self-tapping screws with sharp tips are used.
    • Fasteners must be screwed in with a screwdriver that can rotate at low speeds.

  • Profiles are attached to both side and intermediate guides. The distance between adjacent self-tapping screws is 20 cm. Thus, it is necessary to sheathe all sections of the constructed frame. I have such a design.

  1. I am plasterboarding an installation for a wall hung toilet. There are several important features that deserve special mention:
    • I started designing the box and lining the installation only after finishing work with the vertical part of the box, since the guide part, according to my idea, is attached to drywall.

  • The top and side of the installation is sheathed drywall sheets in one layer, since during operation it does not experience increased loads, and the front side of the structure must be sheathed with two layers of drywall.

  • To fix the GKL on a metal installation, you need to use special self-tapping screws (in the figure below at number 1), the tip of which has the shape of a drill for metal. If you don’t have these, then before screwing in a conventional self-tapping screw (in the figure below at number 2), you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm in the installation.

  • To front side installation, the first sheet of drywall is first screwed, and then, on top of it, the second. All necessary technological holes must be pre-cut in both parts.

On this, the process of fixing drywall on the frame of our box can be considered complete. I ended up with this design.

Now you can start decorative trim box surface.

Finishing

As finishing In my installation box, I chose ceramic tiles. Although, as I said above, the beauty of drywall is that it can be finished with any decorative material- and wallpaper, and paint, and, if you want, plastic.

The scheme of work on gluing tiles is as follows:

  1. I putty the gaps between the plasterboard. For this, putty for seams is used. For example, Knauf Fugenfüller. To further strengthen these areas, you can use fiberglass tape - sickle. The work is done in the following order:
    • The seams are treated with a primer for drywall. It will remove dust from these sections of the box and improve the adhesion of the surface to the putty used.
    • Pre-mixed with water or already prepared mixture should be applied with a spatula to the seams between the sheets, and then carefully press it inward.
    • Glue a sickle on top of the seam, then apply more on top a small amount of mortar and level it with a spatula.

  1. The primed surface of drywall. It is better to process GKL twice. Putty can be applied with a roller or a regular brush. Processing in two layers increases the adhesion strength of the adhesive and, accordingly, the latter is better to keep the tile on the surface of the finished box.

  1. I do tiling. This process is described in detail in my articles posted on this site, so those who are interested can contact them for the necessary information. I will not dwell on this process here.

After finishing laying the tiles and drying the adhesive with silicone

Major repairs in dwellings often involve replacing pipes. Upon completion of the installation of pipes or radiators, it becomes necessary to hide communications to create a favorable appearance of the walls in the bathroom, toilet or in any other room. A lot of work done during the renovation period with the use of expensive tiles, underfloor heating and attractive plumbing fixtures, and a lot of effort put into creating a pleasant interior, can be in vain if communication disguise is not thought through.

For such work, apply various materials, but the most acceptable is the use of drywall, from which the box is made. Why the choice falls on drywall?

The advantages of a drywall box for pipe sheathing are due to the following:

  • affordability of drywall;
  • ease of manufacture of plasterboard structures.
  • environmental safety of drywall, characterized by the absence of harmful substances in its composition. This is especially true in the manufacture of boxes for batteries and heating pipes that emit heat during space heating.

Some information about drywall. This popular construction material characterized by a multilayer structure with alternating gypsum and paper layers. Drywall sheets are on sale in the size of 2.5 by 1.2 meters. One sheet of drywall will be enough to make a box for a fan riser.

Note! For the construction of a box in such rooms with high humidity, like the bathroom and toilet, you should use a moisture-resistant type of drywall.

wood or metal

First of all, you need to assemble the frame. For the manufacture of the box, both a metal profile and wooden beam. The advantages of a metal profile made of galvanized steel is that, unlike a wooden beam, it has increased resistance to moisture, for a long time is not exposed to rust.

To the benefits wooden frame environmental friendliness of wood and a higher degree of sound insulation can be attributed.

Materials and tools

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the box, you should consider a set of tools and materials.

Materials and tools:

  • sheet drywall;
  • metal profile (guide and rack);
  • dowel-nails, self-tapping screws for fastening parts of the box;
  • special knife for cutting drywall.

You will need materials such as mounting foam, cushioning tape, putty to level the surface of the box. Of the tools, a drill, hammer, screwdriver, tape measure, level, plumb line, pencil are useful.

Preliminary work

To preparatory work includes the processing of steel heating pipes and radiators (heating radiators), from which they remove old paint and, if necessary, apply a new one. Paint as an insulating material will protect metal pipes from premature rust damage. These works must be completed before installing the box, which will subsequently block access to the pipes.

The above work will not be required if the manufactured box is used for sheathing plastic water pipes.

Note! It is possible to continue work on installing the box only after the final drying of the paint on pipes or batteries.

Frame assembly and cladding

A drywall box is fixed to a power metal frame with vertical and horizontal profile elements.

Note! When alternating horizontal elements, a step of 60 cm must be observed.

The finished frame is sheathed with sheets and strips of drywall, pre-cut to fit the dimensions of the frame. Drywall parts are fixed to the profiles with self-tapping screws. They are screwed into the drywall with a slight recess so that they can be hidden under a layer of plaster.

There are several ways to close the pipes with drywall:

1. Carry out the "preservation" of the pipeline of the fan riser: remove rust from pipes, replace damaged pipeline sections, prime or paint pipes, repair joints between pipe sections.

2. Start work on installing the cladding box should be from the bottom. This means that marking the dimensions of the box, taking into account its contours, should be applied by drawing straight lines using a corner, starting directly from the floor surface - to the left and right of the pipe. Sections of profiles of the required length are fixed horizontally with dowels along the lines drawn on the floor. Similarly, horizontal profiles are installed on the ceiling (or elsewhere on top of the future box). Vertical profiles are attached to the installed horizontal ones. Next, the remaining horizontal profile elements are added in increments of 60 cm.

Note! Vertical profile elements are attached to horizontal rails using special self-tapping bugs.

3. Cutting blanks from drywall is carried out after final installation profile frame. Drywall is cut with a special knife, often used for cutting wallpaper. Lines are drawn on the front side of the drywall sheet external dimensions individual sides of the box from profiles. Furrows are applied along these lines with a knife - alternately for each workpiece. The notched drywall blank is simply broken and then cut from the back of the drywall sheet.

Note! Plasterboard blanks are fixed to the box frame using ordinary metal screws.

4. window arrangement ( air vent) in a drywall box opposite the fitting (faucets and connecting devices on pipelines). The need for such a window is obvious - during operation, regular revision and repair of the sewer system is necessary.

Only after you learn how to close the pipes with drywall, and do all the work on installing the box, you can start finishing work. They may include applying plaster to the surface of the box and then painting it, or lining the box with ceramic tiles.

Video

An example of making a pipe box:

A photo

For modern bathrooms, the walls of which are covered with beautiful ceramic tiles, very important point is the attractiveness of appearance. The visibility of sewer pipes, risers, empty space under the bathroom disfigures the entire room. There are many ways to solve this problem, but the most common are two: build a false wall or make a box in the bathroom from drywall or plastic panels.

Pipe box options

The pipes that go through the whole room not only spoil the whole picture, but also give the impression of a careless attitude to the arrangement. There are many ways to hide pipes, and they have long been known to masters. After all, it is important that, for example, a box in a bathroom made of plastic or drywall panels that covers communications looks not only aesthetically pleasing, but also lasts a long time. And these materials just have a high resistance to moisture, do not have the property of deformation during temperature changes, have a small thickness and low weight.

  1. In most cases, a box under a drywall bathtub is the preferred option, since this building material lends itself to almost any finish. It can be painted, wallpapered or tiled, that is, you can choose the finish in accordance with the general interior of the room. For repairs in rooms with high humidity, there is a special type, moisture resistant. It is painted in marsh color, includes anti-fungal and moisture-repellent elements, so that humid air cannot affect the wearer's health in any way.
  2. For a false wall, you need only one sheet of dry plaster (drywall), which will close all the pipes. It is mounted on a frame of metal profiles on self-tapping screws. You can decorate with tiles or wallpaper, in the color of the interior. The tile box in the bathroom looks aesthetically pleasing, noble, but significantly reduces the space.
  3. One of the best means is a removable box in the bathroom. Sew up the structure tightly, it will be beautiful, but unsafe. Whether steel pipes or polypropylene, at some point they may leak in the connections, and if all your communications are closed with a solid box, which is equipped with only a small plastic hatch, you will have to completely disassemble the entire structure. You can't do without damage to the decorated surface.

In order not to encounter such a problem, there is a lifesaver in the form of a collapsible box, which saves you time, nerves and money during installation and dismantling.

  1. Many people are interested in questions: how to hide the counters in the bathroom neatly, how to close the counters in the bathroom? To do this, you can also make a box of plastic or drywall. For these materials, the frame looks the same, so you can first build the frame, and then decide on the choice of building material. It should only be remembered that in order to access counters or taps, you will need to make an inspection hatch.

For your information: By installing a riser box in the bathroom, you can not only hide a large pipe, but also reduce the noise level by laying sound insulation between the screen and the riser, for example, mineral wool.

Before starting to improve the bathroom, it is worth checking all pipes and threaded connections. In places where it will be difficult to get close, threaded connections should be kept to a minimum. In the event of a leak, the pipes must be approached through an inspection door. This will avoid dismantling the box in the bathroom in the future.

Box under the bath

If the bathroom has a new acrylic bath, then the difficulty of ennobling the empty gap under it disappears, since modern models already sold with an attractive finish not only inside but also outside. Therefore, there is no need to close such structures with anything. However, if during the repair the bathtub did not change or an inexpensive cast-iron or steel model, which has only legs in the kit, then you should not count on a pleasant appearance of the outside. Such models are not covered with anything from the outside, it looks unattractive.

In addition, by hiding the space under the bath, many get rid of the problem of storing things for the bathroom. After all, behind the screen or curtain you can put powders, rags, and other necessary items.

Tip: Most cheap option- this is to build a frame and hang a curtain on it from a special moisture-repellent material that needs to be washed constantly. But this is not suitable for every interior, it looks cheap, and in case of washing, you need to have a spare curtain.

Another inexpensive way is to purchase a ready-made screen, which is sold in many supermarkets. This method is perhaps the most famous and simple. decorative design screens vary enormously great variety. It is easy to match the panel to the color of the bathroom itself or to the color of the tile.

The disadvantage of the prepared screens is that they are sold for the intended dimensions of a standard bath. Owners of old cast-iron and sit-down baths, this option is not suitable. The only way out of this situation is to make a box for a bath and ennoble it with your own hands. Perfect box in the bathroom of plasterboard or chipboard

First you need to make a base. The frame can be sewn up with a panel for which chipboard, drywall or plywood are suitable. More often, a drywall box is made for a bathtub. If the front surface does not look too beautiful, it can be decorated with wallpaper or tiles to match the walls. In order for the design to become sliding, the frame for the box in the bathroom is equipped with guides. Most often, screen niches are used, in the form of recesses of various sizes, which serve as shelves for various items. If the contents of the shelves look nice, then you can leave them open, or close them with glass or plastic. It turns out a small decorative bathroom box that can be adjusted to your bathroom to the millimeter.

Plumbing cabinet

Many have a sanitary cabinet-box in the bathroom or toilet if there is a separate bathroom. It manages to place a complete set of plumbing fixtures, including an installation for a hanging toilet bowl. If the bathroom is shared, then you can make a sanitary cabinet in the bathroom, which is easy to close the same water heater. If there is additional money, it can be supplemented with all kinds of built-in or external shelves, inserts.

Tip: For convenience, it is recommended to build wide doors. Several options are considered the most famous and aesthetic: a metal or plastic inspection hatch, doors made of wooden crates different colors, roll shutters and an invisible sunroof under tile. The invisibility hatch is probably considered the best and most common way.

The technical cabinet in the bathroom and this design are mounted at the same time, and then tiles are laid on it, as a result of which an invisible revision hatch is obtained, when opened, part of the wall seems to move off. It looks fashionable, interesting, extraordinary.

Sink cabinet

One of the highlights in the bathroom, of course, is the washbasin. Today in building supermarkets you can find many offers of various bedside tables. But you can build an impromptu box cabinet with your own hands. The embodiment of an unusual cabinet under the sink begins with a selection of material and improvised means for the product.

It is important that the cabinet is in harmony with the appearance of the room, the place is well planned. The first step is to assemble the cabinet itself without a top. Then assemble a box under the sink in the bathroom, with fasteners inside for shelves and hang doors or drawers for various items. In the case of drawers, snags may appear, as pipes will pass inside the box.

Conclusion

If you do not have the proper experience, then it is better to make simple shelves. To decorate the finished bedside table, you can take both tiles with small mosaics, as well as tile battles and any super-strong materials. Such a cabinet will stay with you for more than one year and will fit well into the interior. Interesting ideas similar structures are shown in the photo.

During the overhaul in the apartment, almost everyone is faced with one small, but very unpleasant situation. Part of the pipes and communications in the bathroom and in the kitchen cannot be moved or redone. As a result, a situation is possible when, against the background of beautiful finishing materials, an ancient pipe or sewer riser will “show off”, which will spoil any idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe transformation of the apartment. To avoid this, there is one extremely simple and affordable option for everyone. Nondescript pipes should be hidden in a neat box. How to make a drywall box, and will be discussed further.

It is possible to choose other materials for the implementation of the box, such as: plastic, chipboard, plywood, etc. However, the most suitable material there is still drywall. It is the easiest to process. The resulting surface of the box can be easily finished with ceramic tiles, wallpaper or paint. Simply put, only drywall will not limit you later in the choice of finishing methods and, moreover, will create a durable and reliable box that will last a very long time. It is easy and simple to build a drywall box with your own hands, you just need to take into account a few important nuances in the construction of such an element of the interior.

What is needed to build a box?

You will need the following tool:

  1. roulette;
  2. plumb line, bubble level;
  3. hammer drill;
  4. building corner;
  5. construction knife;
  6. a hammer.

The list of materials includes a naturally drywall sheet. One standard sheet 2500 * 1200 mm with a thickness of 9 or 12.5 mm is quite enough. It is best to choose a moisture-resistant drywall, given that water pipes or a sewer riser will be sheathed, which have at least a little feature, but are covered with perspiration, so that the humidity will be significant. This is all the more reasoned if a drywall box is installed in the bathroom, where the humidity is already high.

The frame for the box can be made both from wooden bars 40 * 40 or 50 * 50 mm, and from a galvanized metal profile specially designed for working with drywall. If a tree is used, it must be done in advance, which will protect the wood from rotting and destruction. in this regard, it is more practical, since it does not require mandatory training, and it is somewhat easier to use it.

Scheme for constructing a box for pipes based on a metal profile.

From a wide variety of profiles, you will need a UD guide profile and a CD profile to form the frame itself.

To fix the frame elements, it is best to use dowels and hammered euro screws for fastening to the wall and “flea” screws with a drill tip to connect the profiles to each other. For a tree, hardened self-tapping screws are required, twice the length over size timber used. In any case, hardened self-tapping screws with a piercing tip of size 35-45 mm are used to fix drywall sheets.

Work order

Stage 1: markup

First you need to make markings on the floor. The line should indicate the contour along which the guide profile or support bars will be installed. It should be borne in mind that drywall will be sewn on top of the frame, so the resulting dimensions of the box will differ from the dimensions of the markup for the thickness of the sheet used. With the help of a building corner, the perpendicularity of the lines with respect to the walls and to each other is checked.

The thickness and width of the box is chosen such that the plasterboard sheathing does not adjoin the pipes in any place, and there is a gap of at least 3-5 cm on all sides. The width is still worth choosing, taking into account the subsequent finishing. If subsequently the box will also be sheathed with ceramic tiles, then you should choose the width of the box equal to the whole number of widths of the tile itself in order to avoid the need for trimming.

The markings on the floor are ready. To transfer the markup to the ceiling, a plumb line is used. If necessary, marking on the wall is carried out using a stretched thread between the corresponding points on the floor and ceiling.

Stage 2: fixing the frame elements

First of all, profiles or bars located near the wall stop. After that, one or two racks are fixed, spaced from the walls and forming the front, protruding edge of the box. If the width of the box exceeds 25 cm or the height of the box is more than 1.5 m, jumpers should be mounted between the support posts. Jumpers are installed at a distance of no more than 1 m between each other.

During the installation process, if a wooden beam is used, the cut points should be further processed. It is best to use a special building mastic for wood. This, in addition to protecting the wood, will provide greater stability and sound insulation so that the box does not creak during thermal deformations.

Stage 3: installation of drywall sheets

It is desirable to cut a sheet of material in such a way that the box consists of single strips, and not of pieces. First of all, strips for the side faces of the box are cut off. Their width should be equal to the width of the frame itself and not protrude beyond the border of the support posts. Only then can you accurately measure the size of the remaining edge and cut off the corresponding strip of drywall so that it also finds the edges of the side strips. Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws 35-45 mm every 15-25 mm to the main racks of the frame. You can not strengthen the sheets in addition to the jumpers between the racks. At such a small width of the structure, this will not play any role.

After the sheets are fixed, you can begin to putty and form the corners of both the box itself and in the places where it adjoins the walls. For this, a special metal or plastic perforated corner is used. It is fixed on a thin layer of starting putty. After that, you can apply a layer of finishing putty or prepare the surface for laying ceramic tiles. Actually, on this we can consider the work on the construction of a drywall box completed.

But there are a number of points and prerequisites regarding the process of sheathing the frame of the box with drywall. This is due to the fact that the drywall box is a non-separable structure, and it is fraught with sewing tightly such elements as a sewer riser or water supply pipes.

Video: an example of the formation of a box

Features of building a box

Essentially, the box is simple design from the frame and drywall sheets fixed on it. However, do not forget about the features of those pipes and communications that are to be sheathed. When making a pipe box, it is necessary to take into account not only the aesthetics of the result, but also practical aspects.

sewer riser

In many apartments on the sewer riser there are so-called revisions. These are special couplings on a pipe with a branch or hole that is closed with a lid. A revision is needed to clear blockages. In no case should such places be tightly sewn up with a box. You should prudently mark out the place and leave a window for unhindered access to the revision from the outside. You can close the window with the help of special plastic doors, which are sold in hardware stores.

In addition to the audit, access to the junctions and convergences of the internal sewerage in central riser. It may be necessary to replace any elements over time or eliminate blockages in the internal pipes.

Water pipes

Doors are necessarily formed in the technological holes in the box in those places where there are such elements on the pipes as: water meters, valves and compensators, check valves and reducers.

To form these openings, it is necessary to form holes in the drywall sheets 1-3 mm larger than the dimensions of the door frame, which will subsequently be inserted there. You can do this in advance in the drywall strip before fixing it to the frame. You can also only mark in advance the installation position of the door and, after fixing it on the drywall frame, proceed to cutting the hole.

If the door is installed to access the revision of the sewer in the toilet or in the bathroom, the hole for it is located on the front edge of the box, which faces the entrance. This is a mandatory requirement and you should not even try to move the door somewhere to a more secluded place.

If the door is only for access to valves and other equipment on water pipes, then it is quite acceptable to place it on the side face of the box. So it will be less noticeable. It is only important that you retain the ability to quickly access technological nodes if necessary.