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How to install a chain-link fence with your own hands? Chain-link mesh fence without welding: detailed step-by-step instructions for craftsmen and photo examples of finished work Do-it-yourself chain-link mesh fence

Wire mesh is an ideal material for lightweight fencing. It does not obscure the light, and therefore is widely used for fencing beds, gardens, marking the boundaries of neighboring areas. To put up a chain-link fence with your own hands, you do not need to be an experienced craftsman, you just need to familiarize yourself with and choose the right materials.

Fence materials

The appearance, durability and cost of a chain-link fence directly depends on the quality of the mesh. Metal mesh is available in three versions:

  • non-galvanized;
  • galvanized;
  • plasticized.

The cheapest of all. It is not suitable for permanent fencing, as it begins to rust after the first rain. Usually untreated black mesh lasts no more than 3-4 years. To extend the service life, the non-galvanized chain-link should be coated either with paint or with special compounds, which, after application, form a water-repellent coating on the mesh. Periodically, such processing must be repeated, which as a result is more expensive than the purchase of a galvanized mesh.


Moisture is not afraid and does not require protective treatment. Her appearance is much more attractive, such a grid looks especially good in sectional fences. The cost of galvanized mesh is higher than regular black mesh, but since it lasts longer and does not need to be painted every 2-3 years, this option is more practical.


plasticized mesh It has a special polymer coating that is resistant to corrosion. The coating is not only durable, but also a variety of colors, so you can choose a mesh to match the main fence or roof of the house. The most popular is the netting of blue and green, less often you can see a white, red or yellow mesh fence.



Special attention should be paid to the supporting pillars of the fence. Chain-link mesh can be attached to metal pipes, steel profiles, concrete posts and even wooden posts.

The most convenient and practical supports are square metal pipes. Manufacturers offer pipes with hooks already welded on, especially for installing mesh fences. To reduce the cost of installing the fence, used pipes are also used, and the hooks are welded on their own. In addition, hooking is not the only option, it is possible to fix the mesh with steel wire.


How to calculate the amount of materials

The most popular for the manufacture of fences is considered to be a chain-link mesh with a width of 1.5 m and mesh sizes of 40-50 mm. A standard roll of mesh has a length of 10 m. To prevent the mesh from sagging, support posts must be installed in increments of 2-2.5 m. This means that no more than 5 posts will be required per roll. The above-ground part of the supports should exceed the width of the grid by 10 cm, and the posts should be dug into the ground by 1/3 of their height.

So, if you need to install a chain-link fence 30 m long and 1.5 m high, you will need 3 rolls of mesh and 16 posts 2.3-2.5 m long to work. 3 hooks should be attached to each post - top, bottom and middle . Multiplying the number of supports by 3, they find out how many hooks will be needed. If the fence is sectional, the number of metal corners for the frame is additionally calculated. The height of each section is equal to the width of the grid, and the length of the run is 2-2.5 m. The most convenient corner for a 40x40 mm frame with a thickness of 5 mm.

Netting prices

Rabitz

Tension fence manufacturing


Tension fencing made of chain-link mesh is faster than sectional fencing, and is cheaper. The installation process includes marking, preparation of pits for poles, installation of poles and fence canvas.

For work you will need:


Step 1. Marking the site

They take wooden pegs and a long string and start marking. First you need to determine the location of the extreme pillars. In these places, pegs are driven in, a twine is pulled between them at a height of 10 cm above the ground. If the fence line has breaks, a beacon is also placed on each of them and a rope is fixed. Further along the marking line, it is necessary to drive in pegs where the intermediate supports will stand. The distance between the pegs must be the same and correspond to the width of the run.

Step 2. Preparing holes for poles


In places marked with pegs, holes are made with a garden drill from 80 to 120 cm deep. The denser the soil, the shallower the depth. The diameter of the holes should be slightly larger than the diameter of the posts. At the bottom of each pit, a sand cushion 10 cm thick is arranged.

Step 3. Installation of load-bearing poles



Prepare pipes: clean their surface from oil stains and rust, grind, weld hooks. The welding points are cleaned, the scale is removed, and then the pipes are primed and painted. After that, the columns are lowered into the pits, leveled, strengthened with spacers. If all supports have the same height and are located strictly in one line, you can fill. During the pouring process, the mortar is pierced several times with a steel bar to remove air bubbles from the concrete.


Step 4. Attaching the chain-link mesh


To fix the net on the poles, the roll does not need to be unwound. It is lifted vertically, put on the first support and hooked on hooks. If there are no hooks, the mesh is screwed with steel wire in three or four places. It is recommended to leave 10-15 cm between the surface of the earth and the lower edge of the grid. It can also be attached close to the soil, but then the cells will quickly become entangled with grass, debris, branches, and fallen leaves will accumulate under the fence.


Having fixed the chain-link on the first pillar, they move on to the second. The roll is unwound for 2-2.5 m, put on a support and the mesh is pulled. In order for the tension to be uniform, a steel bar 1.5 m long is threaded into the cells along the height of the roll. It is best to perform this process with an assistant: one person pulls the mesh, the other fastens it with wire or hooks it.

Even a tightly stretched netting sags over time, especially at the top. Reinforcing wire or long steel bars threaded into cells along the perimeter of the fence at a distance of 5-7 cm from the top and welded to the posts will help to avoid this. Sometimes the wire is threaded both from above and along the lower edge, stepping back from the ground 20 cm. Finally, the ends of the wire and hooks are bent inward, plugs are put on all the support posts.


Production of a sectional fence


The marking and installation of support posts for a sectional fence is carried out according to the technology described above. The only difference is that the posts should not be with hooks, but with welded metal plates. These plates have dimensions of 15x5 cm and a thickness of 5 mm; they are welded from above and below to the racks, stepping back from the edges by 20 cm.

To assemble the sections you will need:

  • Rabitz;
  • steel corners 40x40 mm;
  • Bulgarian;
  • roulette;
  • rebar bars.

Step 1. Assembling the frame

Measure the distance between the bearing columns and subtract 15-20 cm from it - this will be the width of the frame from the corners. The height of the section is equal to the width of the grid or the height of the column minus 20 cm. The steel corners are cut to the size of the section and into a rectangle. Then the scale is removed, the inner and outer surfaces of the frame are ground.


Step 2 Preparing the Mesh

A chain-link roll is laid on the ground, unwound 2-2.5 m and carefully cut with a grinder in width. Now reinforcing bars are threaded into the extreme rows of cells on each side. The rods do not need to be connected to each other.

Step 3 Mounting the section

The mesh is laid on the frame and the upper reinforcement is welded to the inside of the corner. Next, the mesh is well pulled down and the lower rod is welded, after which the sides are fixed. The finished section is lifted vertically to the posts and welded to the metal plates. You can also fix the section with bolts by drilling a hole of the desired diameter in the protruding part of the plate.

When mounting the next section, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of adjacent frames are in line. Even a difference of 1-2 cm will be noticeable and will give the fence a sloppy look. Finally, the sections are primed and painted. Thus, you can make a fence of any size without much hassle.




Video - Do-it-yourself chain-link fence

The German construction worker Karl Rabitz, patenting his stucco mesh, did not even guess how many applications she would find later. One of the most common is a fence. Chain-link mesh, or just a chain-link, is inexpensive, it is not difficult to build a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands, and its performance is very high. By the way, "chain-link" has become a household word, and this word must be handled according to all the rules of the Russian language. Chain-link lovers fence fences and curious, from improvised material, but quite reliable, and / or not devoid of artistic merit:

You can make a fence from a chain-link without experience with 1-2 unskilled assistants around a plot of 20 acres over the weekend, not counting the gate with, if you know the features of this material and how to work with it. Their description is one of the purposes of this article. The second is to talk about some little-known useful qualities of chain-link fences, which we will finish quickly in order to come to grips with the technique.

Note: further, when describing the types of chain-link fences, we will, as far as possible, suggest how to make one or another without welding, if in this case this is even possible. Country electrical wiring most often simply cannot withstand the operating current of the welding machine, and it is difficult and expensive to rent and transport a motor-generator.

What is a chain link fence good for?

First of all - excellent visibility, high light transmission and breathability. It is impossible to fence off small areas with blind fences, they shade plants and disrupt the circulation of surface air layers, which aggravates the effect of frosts, dry winds, etc. A fence made of welded mesh also transmits both light and air, but its canvas is not voluminous. Flattened spirals, from which the Rabitz mesh is wound, break the dense air flow into small whirlwinds, which causes the wind energy to drop and its effect on buildings and plantings is reduced. The difference in aerodynamics is clearly visible in ice (see the figure on the right): the stronger the ice storm rushes, the less the netting passes it. In general, over long periods of time (from 10 years), plots fenced with chain-links suffer less from the vagaries of the elements than those surrounded by some other fence.

The three-dimensional structure of the chain-link also gives it high elasticity when stretched. This is important, first of all, for playgrounds: even if a small troublemaker hits the fence instead of the ball, there will be no serious injuries. A properly built chain-link fence will withstand a frontal collision with a car at speeds up to 40-50 km / h without fatal consequences for the driver, passengers, car and himself.

Finally, the high elasticity of the stretched chain-link, combined with its three-dimensional structure, determines the poor surmountability of a correctly made fence from it: the stretched chain-link bends and springs as a single surface. This is essential not so much against intruders as when keeping livestock and other domestic animals. It is equally difficult for a cat and a bull to jump over a chain-link fence, break through it or get entangled in it. Unwanted wild newcomers to the household yard - too.

Installation of a chain-link fence is possible in at least 5 different ways, giving significantly different operational qualities of the fence:

  • Stretch along the string;
  • Hinged along the veins;
  • Mounted on the slopes;
  • Sectional teams;
  • Sectional whole.

Tension along a string (cable or wire, item 1 in the figure) a chain-link fence is the most permeable, resilient and windproof. Material consumption is minimal. Disadvantages - laboriousness, tk. pillars must certainly be completely concreted (see below), as well as obligatory braces for corner, gate and, possibly, intermediate pillars. For installation, special equipment is required, some of which, however, can be replaced with devices from improvised means.

In a fence hinged along the veins, a chain-link fabric is hung instead of an elastic string on rigid rods (pos. 2) or a small professional pipe, which is a vein. It is easiest to build a chain-link fence on veins, which is why they most often make them for themselves. The permeability and, so to speak, "wind-softening" properties of the chain-link fence on the veins are almost the same as those of the tension along the string. However, if a truck that brought something accidentally catches it, it will most likely have to be changed at least 2 spans completely. On dense, well-bearing soils, pillars under a fence hinged along the veins can be installed in simplified ways.

A fence made of a chain-link hung on a slug (boards, a steel profile or a round plastic pipe, a corner), pos. 3, is more material and labor intensive than the hinged one along the veins, but you can put it on any more or less bearing soil (more than 0.5 kg / sq. cm, if the soil is not flooded) by simply hammering or digging the pillars, because . supports with slegs form a single sufficiently strong and rigid structure. A chain-link fence on wooden poles is no less durable than on steel ones. In addition, it can be built on a slope without any tricks, see fig.:

The fact is that the chain-link keeps its shape when skewed up to 6 degrees, which gives a slope of 1:10, i.e. 1 m by 10 m. However, the mechanical properties of the chain-link fall catastrophically, but this is not essential in the fence along the slopes, because almost all operational loads are assumed by supports with rigid strapping.

A prefabricated sectional fence made of chain-link (pos. 4) is expensive, labor-intensive and, by the way, less durable (it is easier to demolish or cut the frame as a whole than to break through a solid mesh panel), and it is easier to overcome. Its only advantage is a more or less decent appearance and lower dynamic loads on the mesh, which is especially important for colored plasticized netting, see below. Solid sectional chain-link fences (pos. 5) are durable, difficult to overcome, visually visible, but expensive, labor-intensive and of little repair. Children's, sports and industrial sites are most often fenced with such, therefore, solid sectional fences are not considered further.

Note: if you are going to make a sectional mesh fence, then the first thing to consider is the welded flat mesh option. The chain-link in this design has no advantages over it, but the welded mesh is cheaper and easier to install.

Net

Installation of a chain-link fence is not possible from any of its types, of which there are dozens, if not hundreds, in the production and sale. The “black” chain-link made of uncoated structural steel (item 1 in the figure) is a plaster and reinforcing mesh, not intended for outdoor use: it quickly rusts, does not hold paint well, is rather fragile and begins to tear from the winds even sooner than it rusts.

For fences, most often there is a galvanized chain-link made of wire of increased plasticity (pos. 2), the so-called. gray. It costs approx. 7-12% more expensive than black. A cheerful fence can be made from a plasticized chain-link (coated with colored PVC, item 3), but only sectional. The solid panel of their colored netting sags in the wind, the plastic at the joints is rubbed over the winter, and the mesh rusts. Very fast, because in this case, the metal is eaten by capillary moisture. There is a plasticized chain-link somewhere 1.5 times more expensive than gray.

Note: in wide sale there is also a chain-link made of stainless steel wire, pos. 4. A marvelous fence dream, but, like all marvelous dreams, it is very expensive in real life.

Mesh and wire

Fences are usually made from a vertical chain-link with a mesh of 50-60 mm, from wire with a diameter of 1.6-2.2 mm, pos. 5. To fence a household yard with a bird, you need a more expensive mesh with a mesh no larger than 30 mm, otherwise the ducklings will scatter, and it will not be difficult for ferrets and weasels to get into the house. The lower gap of the fence (see below) in this case is covered with boards or slate.

A mesh of increased strength made of wire up to 4-5 mm thick (pos. 6) is needed for the fence of a corral or pasture for cattle. It is difficult to work with it, especially splicing panels (see below), because. reinforced chain-link is heavy and tough.

A very strong and elastic variety of chain-link with a small, up to 20 mm, strongly flattened mesh, the so-called. shell mesh (pos. 7, remember the old beds?). But it is much more expensive than an ordinary fence netting, and working with it is even more difficult. And finally, a chain-link of a horizontal layer, pos. 8: it is impossible to make the junction of her canvases in the fence invisible.

Splicing and tension

The chain-link mesh is produced with a width of 1.1 m in rolls of 10 m. For fences, 10-meter rolls with a width of 1.5-3 m are usually purchased. It is impossible to turn large rolls without lifting mechanisms. That is, the fence will need several rolls, the panels of which (if the fence is not sectional) must be spliced ​​into one sheet.

It is not necessary to splice the netting panels into a web with wire (pos. 1 in the figure) - it is ugly and fragile. To splice the netting sheets, one spiral (one twist) is carefully unscrewed from the edge of one of them and, screwing it into 2 extreme layers of the sheets, they are spliced, pos. 2.

Also, when installing a chain-link fence, the mesh must be stretched. Especially - if the fence is stretched along the string, then the mesh should be pulled tight. In the methods for this, it is recommended to use a screw lanyard (pos. 3) or hoists, but with improvised means and with 2 assistants you can do it easier, pos. 4:

  • Sections of reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10 mm or more are tucked into the extreme layers, and bridles from a textile or synthetic cable with a thickness of 12 mm or more are knitted to their ends.
  • On the one hand, the bridle is carried along the hollow on the support 4a, thrown onto a firmly driven stake-"boy" with an emphasis-lying between it and the extreme post, and a cable gate 4b is made until it is tightly tightened.
  • On the other hand, a stake (vaga) 4v with another bridle thrown over it is placed in the hole with an emphasis.
  • One worker holds the wag vertically, holding the bridle on it so that it does not slip, and the other wraps the collar as tight as possible.
  • The worker on the collar holds it, and the worker on the vaga pulls it towards him. The mesh will be taut with a force of approx. equal to the force of hoists from 4 blocks.
  • Workers keep the mesh taut, and the master fastens it.

Mesh attachment

The mesh is attached to the extreme pillars by introducing the same armatures into its nearest from the inside to the pillars. Then the rods in 4-5 places are attracted to the poles with clamps and, if necessary, the rods (not the mesh!) Are additionally attached to the poles by welding. The mesh is attached to the intermediate posts in the same way and, thus, it turns out to be tightly stretched. Depending on the type of fence, the method of fixing the mesh may be different, see below.

pillars

Chain-link fence posts can be wooden, steel from a round or shaped pipe, or round from an asbestos-cement pipe; in the latter case, reinforcement and concreting are required, as for piles. Ready-made poles for mesh fences with hooks (for tension and hinged fences) or mounting paws (for sectional ones) are produced. It is necessary to deepen the pillars into the ground by at least 80 cm, and preferably by 120 cm and deeper. Here the role is no longer played by the depth of freezing and frost heaving of the soil, but by the lateral operational loads on the pole. The minimum cross-sectional dimensions of the posts for a chain-link fence are as follows:

  • Pine or spruce for a fence with a panel on a string - 100x100 mm.
  • The same, oak or larch - 80x80 mm.
  • Steel from a professional pipe with a wall of 3 mm - 60x60 mm for a fence with a panel along a string or sectional and 40x40 mm for others.
  • Steel from a round pipe with a wall of 2.5 mm - dia. 80 and 60 mm resp.
  • Asbestos-cement - with a diameter of 120 mm for a fence with a panel along the string and from 100 mm for a hinged panel.

Note: sectional chain-link fences on wooden and asbestos-cement poles cannot be made. It is undesirable to make fences with a hinged panel on wooden poles, because. pillars in such structures are not prestressed. Asbestos-cement fence posts are not repairable.

Strengthening the pillars in the ground is possible in the following ways (see Fig.):

  1. Driving or digging in - on dense, not very heaving, not flooded soils: dry loams and clays, gravelly and cartilaginous soils;
  2. With partial concreting - in areas with a small freezing depth on soils with a bearing capacity of 1.7 kg / sq. see Practically - on any stable soil;
  3. Butovanie - recommended for wooden poles on soils as in the previous. n. A sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of 20-30 cm is poured under the pillar, the rubble is poured in layers, 15-20 cm each, tamped and poured with sand. Properly prepared wooden poles (see below) in such nests stand for 50-70 years or more;
  4. Full concreting - in all other cases. Under the post - anti-flood pillow, as in the previous. P; the solution from M150 is poured in layers, 10-15 cm each. The next layer is poured as soon as before. will start to catch on. The column is fixed with temporary braces for the time of concrete gain of 50% strength (3-7 days).

How to prepare wooden poles?

A chain-link fence on wooden poles can be just as durable and reliable as a steel one, if properly prepared. The maintainability of the fence on wooden poles is higher, because. repairing or replacing a broken wooden pole is easier than a bent steel pole. Preparation of wooden poles for the fence is as follows:

  • Bars-blanks are impregnated with engine oil waste or any oil-based biocide-water repellent (water-repellent composition).
  • Underground + approx. 50 cm above ground are impregnated twice with bituminous mastic.
  • Underground + approx. 30 cm above ground are wrapped with roofing material, pulling the wrapper with a thin soft wire. Do not fasten with nails or screws!
  • The upper end of the installed column is painted over with thick oil paint (red lead, ocher, whitewash), regardless of whether the column will be finished somehow else.

How to put up fences?

The gap between the lower edge of the net and the ground in any chain-link fence is needed from 15-20 cm. Otherwise, an inconvenience will form there, where pests and weeds will breed and breed. So that the cattle, trying to reach the fresh meat, do not injure their muzzles on the net, and the bird does not scatter, the lower gap is covered with boards or slate so that they can be removed if necessary.

By the strings

Step-by-step instructions on how to install the most common chain-link fence on 3 strings are given in fig. A 3-string fence is very elastic as a whole, therefore, in this case, the pits for the pillars are small - frost heaving can spoil such a fence only on heavily and excessively heaving soils. In this case, they keep each other from skewing the pillars with the help of tightly stretched strings. The minimum allowable diameters of steel wire and cable strings are 4 and 3 mm respectively, but usually 4 mm cable is taken for the strings, and most often 6 mm wire rod. You can still pull it by hand and, of course, it is stronger. This fence can be installed without welding. Wire holders of the 1st type are hooks on poles driven with a hammer; Type 2 - self-tapping screws for metal with hooks.

If the fence is with corners, then on the corner posts you need 2 struts at 90 degrees. And if the length of the fence from corner to corner exceeds 10-12 m, then on weak soils (sandy loam, sand, black soil, gray and peaty soils), struts of intermediate pillars, pos. 1 next. rice. Gate posts can in any case be without braces if the gate opening is arched or with a crossbar. Also, without struts of intermediate poles, a chain-link fence on strings with wooden poles can be made, pos. 2.

The mesh is applied to the strings after they are stretched. It is enough to grab the net to the string with a “mustache” (pos. 3), because the string plays along with the grid. If the pillars are round, then the chain-link cloth can be circled without breaks (except for gates and gates) around the entire perimeter, pos 4. Also, due to the greater bending strength of round pipes, in this case, you can not concrete the jibs, but spread them between the pillars.

Note: all chain-link fences along the strings can be made without welding.

On the veins

A chain-link fence on wire rod strings is already a transitional option for a fence with a hinged panel. In "real" chain-link fences, the upper and lower strings are replaced with rigid reinforcing bars - veins inserted into the mesh cells. The veins are introduced into the rows of cells in advance as the roll unfolds. The upper and lower veins are attached to the poles in the same way as vertical ones: by throwing them into hooks, clamps, welding. The option of installing a chain-link fence with a hinged panel is shown in the video:

Installation of chain-link fences (video)



And here we will limit ourselves to what should not be done when building such a fence.

Firstly, a hard rod does not play with the mesh in the wind, so it is impossible to introduce veins into the outer rows of cells (pos. 1 in the figure on the right), the cells will soon disperse. However, inserting veins into rows of cells 2-3 from the edge (pos. 2) is also impossible, now for safety reasons. When trying to climb over the fence, the chain-link does not bend much on the veins and it seems to an inexperienced thief or just a half-wit that it is possible to “take” such a fence. But then he finds himself hanging on a wire stuck in his stomach, and the owner has to answer for other people's stupidity and evil up to prison. Therefore, the veins of the hinged fence must be entered into 4-6 horizontal rows of chain-link cells from the edge. Then it simply cannot be climbed over; in extreme cases, an absolutely unreasonable stubborn man will strip his hands, but will not tear his own guts.

Note: strong, safer and rather elegant chain-link fences are obtained if you take a thin professional pipe on a vein; drawings of the span of such a fence, see fig. below. This is a transitional type to a fence with a canvas on the sleds.

On the slopes

The device of a chain-link fence on wooden slings is shown in the next fig; this fence can also be assembled without welding. Poles do not have to be taken with paws; they can be attached to them with self-tapping screws for wood, if the poles are wooden, or for metal, if the poles are steel. For a fence on a slope, this option is even preferable.

But what should not be simplified in the fence from the chain-link fence is the method of attaching the net. Here we need the same reinforcing bars, nailed to the rails with U-shaped brackets or bent nails. If, however, the mesh is fixed as shown on the right in the figure, or simply with nails / self-tapping screws, then within a year it will sag, no matter how it was initially stretched.

Sectional

A sectional fence made of a chain-link can look quite attractive if the section frames are welded from a professional pipe, and the mesh is grabbed directly to them by spot welding; a drawing of a section of such a fence, see the left in fig. below. Collect sections recumbent:

  1. Frames of height less than the grid stretched in width are brewed.
  2. Lay the frame flat.
  3. A piece of mesh of length greater than the span is placed on the frame and stretched with plug-in veins, as described above.
  4. They seize each cell falling on the frame by spot welding.
  5. Cut off excess mesh.

As you can see, it requires either special equipment, or at least 4 strong assistants, and also a spot welding machine, and even part of the mesh goes to waste. Therefore, do-it-yourself sectional fences from a chain-link are most often made in frames from a corner of 30x30x4 or 40x40x5 (on the right in the figure):

  • Roll out the mesh to the length of the span and stretch it up and down as far as possible with your hands. It is better to do this on the ground, fixing the veins with pegs. Insert veins into the extreme rows of cells.
  • Measure the distance between the outer edges of the veins. The distances between the shelves of the corners H facing each other must be equal to them.
  • Mounting hooks made of 6 mm wire rod are welded into the corners, not reaching the shelves of the corners facing each other by 1-1.5 cm.
  • When installing the fence, the upper vein is first thrown onto the hooks (the mustache of the mesh must be bent).
  • Then, with 4 mounts (for which an assistant is needed), the lower vein is brought onto the hooks.
  • The side veins are put in place in the same way.

Relief and swamp

Instead of a conclusion, we suggest watching another video on how to install chain-link fences on slopes, bumps and marshy ground:

Installing a chain-link fence on problem surfaces (video)

Improvement of the land plot is not complete without the construction of a fence. The fence will fit into the design of the house and the area around the building. A suitable fence will be inexpensive, but at the same time reliable and durable.

A universal solution that meets these criteria will be a chain-link fence. It is suitable for both experienced owners and novice gardeners.

What is a mesh netting

The chain-link mesh is a fabric of intertwined metal rods. The design got such a strange name because of the possible creator - Karl Rabitsa.

Thanks to the universal elastic design, the chain-link fence has gained popularity. This material is easy to create, so it costs less than other market competitors. To quickly mount the canvas, simply stretch the grid over the prepared columns. When erecting a fence in this way, it is installed even with your own hands.

From the grid, the chain-link may differ depending on the selected type of grid.

Kinds

The basis for the fence made of chain-link mesh differs in the diameter of the diamond-shaped cells. They range from 0.2 to 1 cm. The cell diameter primarily affects the strength of the structure. Of course, the amount of weave also affects the external perception of the fence.

Also, the netting differs in the height of the roll within 1-2 meters. It should be noted that the larger the fence, the worse the rigidity of the frame. This should be taken into account when installing the fence.

In addition, the material for the manufacture of the fence varies:

  • Steel with low carbon content. Such material makes the fence flexible, but at the same time the mesh is subjected to greater deformation during physical exertion.
  • Stainless steel. The structure will be more solid. Stainless steel will also help prevent premature corrosion of the metal.

It is worth considering the outer coating of the metal wire:

  • Not galvanized black netting. An uncoated fence will rust quickly. This will lead to rapid chafing in the places of weaving, which will negatively affect the integrity of the canvas. Under such conditions, the fence will live 3-4 years. To prevent premature corrosion, the metal is periodically coated with a layer of paint. As a result, such procedures are more expensive than buying a chain-link with a protective coating.
  • Galvanized metal mesh. Zinc coating easily transfers water and snow, which gives a longer service life. Such a fence does not require annual painting, although it costs a little more. Having overpaid for a roll once, you will save on the care of a galvanized chain-link throughout the full service life.
  • Plasticized chain link. The polymer coating of a special purpose reliably protects the metal. Such a fence is not afraid of external influences. The protective layer is painted in the color you choose. This will give the chain-link fence a personality. The design of the plastic coated fence is rigid due to the thickness of the wire 2.5 - 2.8 mm and the small diameter of the rhombus 25-50 mm.

Advantages and disadvantages

Consider the pros and cons of the chain-link mesh point by point:

  • Price. The chain-link grid differs in low cost. A roll of such material is cheaper than other similar designs. Profitability will increase if you do the installation of the fence yourself.
  • Plastic. You can even give a different shape, make the fence rounded.
  • Durability. The chain-link wall is strong, it is difficult to break it. The design will serve you for decades. Coatings for metal will further increase the life of the building.
  • Lightweight material. A roll of netting weighs no more than 40 kilograms. For the construction of the fence will not need special equipment or additional tools.
  • Light transmission. Thanks to the cells, the rays will easily pass through the fence. This is especially important for the garden and in the country.
  • Fast installation. The fence can be easily erected alone in a short time.
  • Care. does not require constant maintenance or washing.

The disadvantages of such a fence include an unsightly appearance and easy overcoming of obstacles from the outside. The grid will not hide the property from prying eyes. These nuances can be solved if you know how to accurately install and choose a wire cloth.

Fence materials

Additional resources will be required to install the chain-link mesh. Their number and variations differ in the way the structure is installed. Three mounting methods are used:

  • tension fence on iron supports;
  • pulling a fence with a wire frame;
  • netting.

Installing a tension fence on metal posts is the most unpretentious method presented. For such installation, you will need a minimum number of tools and rolls. In this case, we will fasten the canvas to the supports with hooks.

How to calculate the amount of materials

For example, let's take a standard mesh with a width of 1.5 meters and a cell diameter of 45 mm. For structural rigidity, the length of the span between the pillars should not exceed 2.5 m. With a roll footage of 10 meters, it is enough for five pillars. We get a simple formula for calculating the amount of chain-link mesh for the length of the site.

List of necessary means for attaching the tension mesh:

  • the mesh itself. You can choose the width and size of the diamonds yourself.
  • Iron pipes of square section. Choose the size according to the situation. If desired, it can be replaced with concrete columns.
  • Hooks for installing a chain-link fence on posts.
  • Level, roulette. Especially important when building a wall with a slope.
  • Manual drill.
  • Welding, Bulgarian.
  • Mortar concrete, sand, gravel.
  • Additional materials: paints, varnishes.

Tension fence manufacturing

Step by step, we will describe the process of installing a fence from a chain-link mesh by pulling on supports.

Step 1: marking the site

First, drive in the pegs of the support posts at the edge. Stretch a string between them. On it, continue to mark the installation sites of other supports. Follow the instructions of the drawings: the columns are dug in at regular intervals.

Step 2: preparing the holes

Start drilling holes in the places marked with stakes. Hole depth: 80-120 centimeters. Leave a margin of diameter for the bearing pillars of at least 5 cm. Pour a layer of sand 1 centimeter into the hole.

Step 3: installation of load-bearing poles

Before installation, the supports are prepared for digging in: they are cleaned, hooks for the fence are welded. Supports are primed and painted.

In conditions of saving materials, it is also possible to drive the pillars into the ground. In this case, the supports are driven into the ground to a predetermined height with a sledgehammer.

Step 4: Mesh Attachment

Do not immediately unwind the roll to put up a fence. First, it is hooked. If the supports were mounted without welding, use wire. Raise the fence 10-20 centimeters above the ground. This will help to avoid problems with plants and debris in the future.

To top it off, don't forget to put caps on the support posts.

Production of a sectional fence

The technology for installing a chain-link fence in a frame is similar to pulling a roll. The difference lies in the way the section is attached to the poles.

Let's dwell on the installation of sections.

Step 1: frame assembly

To begin with, the size of the section is determined by the formula: span length - 15 centimeters. The height is equal to the width of the roll minus 20 centimeters. After that, the frame is connected into a rectangle. In this case, the corners for the frame are ground according to the final size of the frame.

Step 2: Mesh Preparation

The chain-link mesh is measured for fastening. To do this, the roll is unwound and simply cut to the calculated width.

After that, reinforcement in the form of rods is woven into the mesh from the inside.

Step 3: Mounting the Sections

After the preparatory work, they begin to fix the canvas. It is placed on the crate and the bars are welded, starting from the top. Constantly tension the blade for proper installation.

After the frame is lifted and attached to the pipes. They are welded to the plates or mounted on pre-installed bolts.

Keep in mind that even a slight distortion in the frames will be noticeable from the side. Be careful when mounting the frame.

decorative fence decoration

A mesh fence without accessories will not delight a casual passerby. Indeed, the chain-link mesh cannot be called a work of art. However, in our time, original ways are being created to make the fence attractive.

  • Landscaping. Living climbing plants will fit into every backyard area. Experiment with several types - the fence will become more exotic.
  • Artificial flowers. This decoration does not require constant care. Try hanging plants in special hanging pots.
  • Beautiful wire patterns. In this case, the picture is woven through the cells of the fence with a special twig. It looks unusual, but pleasing to the eye.
  • Drawing with paints. Use either an aerosol or special varnishes. If you know how to handle a brush, try applying the ornament yourself.

Conclusion

Even without building experience, you can install a chain-link fence without someone else's help. The use of such a canvas is not limited to the fencing of the site. This material is used for enclosures, decorative walls, dividing elements.

At the same time, the chain-link has long ceased to be associated with a temporary, rough design. Braid manufacturing technology is not a little worse than similar fences. The use of additional protective layers or coatings will make such a fence a full-fledged competitor to other materials.

A fence is an essential element of any private property. If country houses are recommended by experts to be fenced with more reliable protective structures, then summer cottages are their practical and inexpensive options. The most suitable material for a country fence is a chain-link mesh. With its help, you can not only make it durable, but also increase the yield of the beds, since the design does not interfere with natural ventilation on the land, and also does not block the sun's access to it. To build a chain-link fence with your own hands, you do not need to be a professional. This article will reveal all the secrets of the masters in installing a practical fence without welding, and will also tell you what tools and materials you need to have to perform such work.

Chain-link mesh is a versatile material that is indispensable in summer cottages. It has many advantages that make it even more popular among buyers. These include:

  • affordable cost. Chain-link mesh is a budget option for building a fence, because not every homeowner is able to allocate a decent amount for the installation of a more expensive structure in the country;

A high-quality mesh will serve you for decades.
  • long service life. High-quality galvanized mesh is able to maintain its original appearance for several decades (up to 40-50 years). It does not rust, with proper use it does not deform.
  • the need to use a minimum number of tools and fastening materials during the installation of the fence;

Important! You can install a chain-link fence with or without welding. Installation without welding is ideal for people who do not know how to work with such equipment.

  • ease of care for the material;
  • the grid does not interfere with the natural circulation of air, does not obscure the territory.

Important! A chain-link fence serves as an ideal fence not only for beds, flower beds or a vegetable garden, it is also indispensable in the process of arranging children's playgrounds, pet enclosures, etc.

Material classification

Depending on the material of manufacture, the chain-link mesh is of three types:

  1. Not galvanized.
  2. Galvanized.
  3. Plasticized.

Non-galvanized mesh is a fairly cheap material. Of course, it is more affordable, but its long service life can be doubted, since under the action of moisture the surface rusts very quickly.

Galvanized mesh is the most popular among customers. It is a little more expensive than its non-galvanized counterpart, it does not rust, which is really very valuable.


galvanized wire mesh

Plasticized material is a modern option, but more expensive. In the process of its manufacture, polymers are used that properly protect the metal mesh from moisture. The plasticized grid has various color scale. Each homeowner is able to choose a material that will ideally fit the interior of the house, as well as complement it.

Instructions for craftsmen: how to make a simple chain-link fence without welding with your own hands

Making a durable and reliable chain-link fence is a fairly simple and interesting task. Its implementation does not require a large amount of professional knowledge and skills. To work, you only need tools and materials, as well as the desire of the master.

There are two ways to make a galvanized fence from a chain-link mesh:

  1. With the use of a welding machine.
  2. Without welding.

Since not every homeowner has a welding machine at his disposal (or does not know how to use it), we will consider the option of installing a fence without using it.

Important! Installing a fence without the use of welding will allow you to build a structure that will be less practical than its welded counterpart.

Tools and materials

So that the construction of the fence does not cause difficulties, you must first stock up on all the necessary tools and materials. In the process of work you will need:

  • chain-link mesh (non-galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
  • support poles (wooden, metal or reinforced concrete);
  • special fastening hooks;
  • sand, screenings, crushed stone and cement;
  • shovel;
  • building level;
  • mounting tape;
  • hammer or drill;
  • bolts, nails or screws.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a galvanized mesh fence

The simplest version of a mesh fence for a summer residence is a tension one. Its installation will not take as much time as it might seem at first glance. For the correct performance of the work, it is necessary to know and follow a clear sequence of the entire technological process.


Scheme: installing a chain-link fence

Advice! To install a tension fence from a chain-link mesh, it is best to involve an assistant who will help you get the job done faster.

A chain-link fence is the best budget option for a summer cottage. Install such a fence with your own hands, you will appreciate its merits not only from personal experience, but you will also see it by the increased amount of crop received from the beds.

Video instruction: how to build a fence from a chain-link mesh without welding with your own hands

Sectional fence made of chain-link in the country

A fence helps to designate the territory of a private country house or summer cottage. A wide variety of materials can be used as a fence, for example, brick, wood or corrugated board, but most consumers make their choice in favor of inexpensive and high-quality products. An ideal option for such people would be a chain-link fence with their own hands. Such a fence is characterized by minimal cost and ease of installation. In our article, we will get acquainted with the nuances of the calculation and installation technology of such a design.

The main advantages of using a grid are:

  • Significant money savings. The price of the material in question is considered one of the lowest among all possible types of fencing. According to this indicator, only a braided line of wicker can make up the design competition.
  • The small mass of the fence, which makes it possible to install without first pouring the foundation.
  • High strength and resistance to various impact factors, such as sudden changes in temperature, atmospheric moisture, the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
  • Good light transmission. Grid cells give unhindered access to solar radiation, which avoids shaded areas on the site. As a result, all plants in the country will develop with the same intensity.
  • Easy care netting.
  • Material availability. Similar products can be purchased on the market or at any hardware store.
  • It is possible to install a chain-link fence in a short time with minimal human resources.

Despite the huge number of advantages, such a fence has several disadvantages. This applies to the transparency of the fence and unattractive appearance, the need to protect the mesh from atmospheric influences with a layer of paint.

Varieties of chain-link

Mesh types

When choosing a fence for installation in a summer cottage, pay attention to the following nuances:

  1. Applicable material, plastic mild steel or hard stainless steel.
  2. The outer coating can be metallic, while the wire diameter ranges from 2 to 5 millimeters, the side of the cell has parameters of 5-10 centimeters. It should be noted that such products need painting.
  3. The zinc coated chain link has the same wire thickness and mesh size. Such a grid is characterized by a long period of operation, does not need to be painted.
  4. Metal products with a stable polymer coating are made of wire with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm, the side of the square of the cell is 2.5-5 centimeters. Such materials have a presentable appearance, differ from analogues by a long period of operation.

It is important! Before buying a chain-link mesh, ask the seller for a quality certificate for the purchased products. Cheap PVC coating does not guarantee the resistance of the fence to ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes.

Particular attention should be paid to the size of the cell. The lower this indicator, the less domestic animals (chickens, ducklings, goslings) will crawl through the fence. True, in this case, the product will be heavier and more expensive. Therefore, the best option for a cell is 5 * 5 centimeters.

The sequence of self-manufacturing of a chain-link fence

Attaching the grid to the support

The basis for installing a chain-link mesh with your own hands is considered to be a pre-compiled working drawing or sketch. This document must contain the following information:

  • Information about the location of the site, taking into account the adjacent roads, trees and buildings.
  • Features of the relief on the indicated area, map of slopes and elevation changes. Such a scheme will allow us to consider two possible options: preliminary leveling of the soil or a cascading fence.
  • The length of the fence along the perimeter of the site. There is no need to calculate the height of the product, because this parameter is regulated by the manufacturer.

In addition to general data, when designing a chain-link grid, it is necessary to make markings for supporting pillars. During the preparation of the working drawing, the designers decide on the use of a frame for the fence. Such structural elements can be:

  1. An easy-to-install tension fence differs from other options in its minimal cost and ease of installation. To install such a fence, it is necessary to fix the supports and stretch the mesh well. The main disadvantage of such a product is the possibility of sagging after several years of operation. To prevent sagging of the mesh, a thick wire broach can be used.
  2. The second variety, a sectional fence, differs from its analogue in the additional costs for the purchase of a metal corner and the increased time spent on manufacturing the frame. The purchase of factory sections will help simplify the installation process, but many owners of suburban real estate make such structures with their own hands.

Note! With significant elevation differences on the site, preference should be given to a fence made of sections. This design will allow you to install a fence without first leveling the ground.

Selection and calculation of materials for construction work

Rolls netting

Construction experts say that you can make a chain-link fence in a couple of days if you first prepare the necessary tools and materials. Such products should include:

  1. The chain-link mesh itself.
  2. Thick wire for mounting a sectional fence. The main function of such an element is considered to be the creation of additional attachment points and an obstacle to sagging of the mesh. An alternative option is to weld reinforcement or a thin pipe between two adjacent metal poles.
  3. Mesh supports.
  4. Steel corner for installation of a sectional fence. The price of a meter of such a product is about 90 rubles.
  5. Thin wire for fixing the mesh on the supports.
  6. Concrete mixture for fixing the position of the pillars.
  7. Antiseptics and other solutions for wood surface treatment.

From the tool you may need a bayonet shovel or drill, a thin rope for marking the site and a tape measure.

Choice of fence posts

As support pillars can be used:

  1. Metal products, pipe or square profile. Such parts have universal application, since steel does not need additional processing, it is enough to cover the material with a primer and paint once. In addition, any fasteners can be welded to the metal. The average cost of a meter of a round pipe is 160 rubles, a square profile with a cross section of 4 * 6 centimeters is 170 rubles / m.
  2. Wooden poles are used in areas where wood is considered a local material. The surface of such products is subject to the influence of fungus and mold. You should also pay attention to the high cost of wood species such as elm and oak. To fix the mesh netting, you can also use cheap raw materials, for example, poles made of birch and pine. With proper processing, such material will stand in the ground for more than a dozen years. For the fence device, two meter supports of at least 10 centimeters in diameter are used. The price of one such product is about 150 rubles.
  3. A foundation is needed to install brick pillars, so such structures are almost never used for arranging a chain-link mesh.
  4. Many people make concrete supports with their own hands in pre-arranged wooden formwork. In addition, similar products can be bought at reinforced concrete factories at a price of 350,400 rubles / piece. Concrete poles should be purchased at their close proximity to the construction site, otherwise the transport costs will exceed the cost of the entire fence.
  5. Asbestos-cement pipes are characterized by high strength and resistance to decay. The price of such a support starts from 300 rubles apiece. These poles are inconvenient to use; special fasteners, clamps or hooks must be used to secure the grid. In addition, the upper part of the pipe must be isolated from moisture, as frozen water can cause material rupture.

The nuances of calculating the fence

Pole installation

The basis for the correct calculation is a distance equal to the perimeter of the site. Netting is usually supplied to the market in the form of rolls of 10 meters in length. Depending on the material used and the diameter of the cell, the price per square meter of such a product ranges from 50 to 220 rubles.

Another important design parameter, the length of the wire for installing a tension fence will be equal to two or three lengths of the perimeter of the fence. It depends on the number of additional fasteners per section. With a structure height of 1.5 meters, 2-3 segments are enough. When installing a sectional fence, the length of a metal corner or a thin pipe is equal to two perimeters.

The basis for counting the number of pillars is the perimeter of the site, usually the supports are installed every 2.5 meters. Consider a specific example for a territory with overall dimensions of 40 * 60 meters. Based on the indicated data, the perimeter of such a site will be 40 + 40 + 60 + 60 = 200 meters.

The fence requires 20 rolls of mesh, 40 poles and 600 meters of thick wire for the bundle.

Installation of chain-link fencing

Mounting the grid to the corner support

At the initial stage of work, it is necessary to prepare the local area for the installation of the chain-link. These procedures involve the collection of debris and cleaning the soil in hilly places (such operations are carried out using a shovel). You also need to remove weeds that grow near the net.

Before you make a fence from a chain-link mesh, you need to mark up the site in order to determine the location of the pillars. As we have already said, the distance between adjacent supports is taken as a multiple of 2.5-3 meters. Wood parts are treated with antiseptics and other solutions that prevent decay. To prevent corrosion, metal products are coated with a primer and paint.

At the next stage of work, we make holes for the pillars. Depending on the type of soil, their depth can vary from 60 to 100 centimeters. In practice, there are several ways to install a fence on hard clay soils:

  • Screwing the supports to the required depth;
  • Digging holes and installing pipes. In some cases, the support is poured with concrete.

On loose soils, the following methods of mounting fence posts are used:

  • Burying a pillar 20 centimeters below the depth of soil freezing. In this case, the heaving of the soil will not be able to squeeze out the pipe.
  • Replacing loose soil with clay and concreting.

Advice! Drilling or digging holes by hand is a labor intensive process. For mounting racks under the chain-link, you can buy or rent a motor drill. Such equipment allows you to drill holes up to 60 centimeters deep. For the remaining distance, the pipe is hammered with a sledgehammer.

Columns for the chain-link begin to be installed from the corners, after which they are reinforced with additional oblique supports. Next, the level of the slope of the surface is determined and the installation of pipes is carried out at the bends of the terrain. Next, ordinary supports are fixed, the gates and gates are installed.

Advice! If metal pipes are used when installing a chain-link fence, then their upper part must be covered with plugs. This will prevent water from entering the product and causing rust.

How to stretch the chain-link mesh

The chain-link is tensioned between the supports using a special wire or cable. After fixing the roll on one of the posts, it is necessary to stretch the free edge of the net. For this, a special tensioner with a hook is used. Some builders recommend passing the cord through the mesh cells, but this method of securing the chain-link is used only for a short fence. Fence sections are fixed on metal pipes with special clamps or welding.

The nuances of installing a tension fence

When installing a tension fence, the first mesh is fixed with clamps near the corner post, while the bent edges of the chain-link should look up.

Advice! When installing a non-galvanized product, the element is raised to a distance of 10-15 centimeters from the ground level, which will prevent corrosive destruction of the material. After that, a metal frame is installed at the bottom of the fence and the gap is laid with bricks or pieces of slate.

The rolls are carefully unwound by hand, and oriented along the lower jumper. During the work, you need to unravel all the pieces. It is recommended to connect the elements into a single structure on supports. Pay special attention to the position of the grid at the corners of the fence. The chain-link must be laid in such a way that distortions do not occur.

The nuances of installing a sectional fence

To begin with, we describe the process of manufacturing sections. First, a frame is made from a metal corner, and the dimensions of such a product must be adjusted to the distance between the supports. The corner is divided into the necessary pieces with the help of a grinder, then the frame is welded and the mesh is pulled. The chain-link is fixed along the perimeter of the frame with a wire.

After manufacturing the required number of sections and installing metal pipes on the ground, they begin to install the fence. During the execution of work, the fastening of sections to the supports is carried out using welding and metal plates.

fencing cost

The cost of the fence will depend on the quantity and type of raw materials used, we indicated the prices for them above. We calculate a 10-meter structure with a height of 1.5 meters, provided that it is made of metal supports and stainless wire. According to the initial data, such a fence requires 5 supports and a roll of mesh, as well as 30 meters of wire.

According to the previously given data, a linear meter of such material costs 75 rubles (750 rubles for a product), each column costs 160 rubles or 900 rubles for the total amount and another 200 rubles for wire. As a result, the price of 10 meters of the fence is 1850 rubles.

As we can see, everyone, even an inexperienced builder, can make a cheap chain-link fence. Learn more about this in this video.