How to glue the wallpaper yourself. How to stick wallpaper easily and without nerves? How to apply glue to wallpaper and stick wallpaper on flat areas

12.03.2020

Wallpapering remains the most common way interior decoration apartments. Despite a wide choice of finishing materials, it is wallpaper that is preferred by most consumers, since wallpaper is practical, simple, convenient and effective. A variety of materials, textures and colors of wallpaper does not leave indifferent even the most fastidious customer. With step-by-step instructions on how to glue wallpaper correctly, I will introduce you today in this article.

Types of wallpaper

The technology of wallpapering walls is simple and accessible to everyone. However, before starting work, it is necessary to understand the variety of wallpapers on the market today. The nuances of working with the material may depend on this knowledge.

Paper wallpapers. Most cheap option, they cannot be washed and they do not retain their original appearance for long, but working with wallpaper is simple, no additional skills are required.
Non-woven wallpaper. Paper base, non-woven fibers. Wear-resistant, washable. Easy to stick: glue is applied only to the wall.
Vinyl wallpapers . Durable, not afraid of moisture. But they do not allow air to pass through, which is why it is undesirable to use in a children's room.
Acrylic wallpaper. The words of acrylic on the surface of the wallpaper are thinner than vinyl, which is why they “breathe” better and can be hung in a children's room.

. Very strong and durable wallpapers, allow dozens of stains, are not afraid of water and fire.
Textile wallpaper. A thin fabric is applied on a paper base. High price and chic appearance However, such walls must be protected from water, mechanical stress and odors.
. The most original representative of the wallpaper is a plastic paste of cellulose and dyes. The natural composition, and the absence of the need to level the base are the main advantages. Installation requires skill and minimal experience.
Wall mural. They are high-format photo printing on self-adhesive material. They make the room original and impressive.

Preparatory work

Wallpapering begins with the preparation of the walls.

The electricity needs to be turned off in the room being renovated. Remove pictures from the walls, unscrew sockets and switches.
Removing the old coating is an important step. New wallpaper, pasted on old ones, will not last long, will begin to bubble and peel off after a while. If the base is covered with wallpaper - first tear off the sheets, picking up with a spatula, and then moisten the remaining pieces of wallpaper warm water and remove after the glue is soaked. If the base is painted - use special chemicals to remove paint from the walls, or an electric tool with an emery nozzle. Vinyl wallpapers waterproof, to remove them, you must first remove the vinyl outer layer, and then soak and remove the paper base.
Wall preparation is completed with leveling. In case of small differences, use putty for spot alignment. Otherwise, the base is leveled in several layers of putty, after which it is treated with sandpaper and the resulting layer of dust is removed.

Wallpapering

The process is simple, but follow the basic rules of wallpapering so that the result pleases for a long time.

The wall needs to be primed. The primer is a weak solution of glue, it is needed to improve the adhesion of the wallpaper to the base. On the adhesive package you will find instructions on how to prepare wallpaper paste or wall primer.
The rules for gluing depend on the type of wallpaper chosen. The manufacturer of wallpaper or glue always indicates the recommendations on the packaging, and follow them. If the glue is applied to the wallpaper, then for gluing the wallpaper canvas must be rolled up with the adhesive side inward. If the glue is applied to the wall - do not exceed the width of the canvas so that the glue does not have time to dry.
It is important to stick the first sheet perfectly evenly, use the building level. Align the rest of the sheets according to the first.

For pasting corners with wallpaper, glue two sheets overlapping and firmly press against the wall. With a sharp knife, cut through both sheets, remove the excess, the sheets will join end-to-end.
Mark the locations of the sockets on the wallpaper sheet with a pen. After drying, carefully cut a hole that will hide behind the decorative strip.
For pasting the corners of doors and windows - leave a small margin of wallpaper so that it goes to the corner. If a battery is encountered as an obstacle, paste over the area accessible to you behind the battery.

This completes the wallpapering of the room. It remains only to be patient and wait for the wallpaper to dry completely, this process can take up to 4-5 days. Do not open the windows in the room at this time to eliminate the risk of peeling the canvas.

Wallpaper, pasted in accordance with all the rules, will last on the wall until the next planned repair, delighting with its original appearance, coating quality and reliability.

Wallpapering the walls is, without a doubt, one of the most popular ways of decorating rooms. Drapery of rooms with fabrics and tapestries has been known since ancient times - back in the Middle Ages, there were entire communities - workshops of artisan upholsterers, whose skill was highly valued and was constantly in demand. Over time, natural fabrics were mostly replaced by cheaper paper tapestries, that is, they acquired approximately the look that we are used to now.

Of course, modern wallpapers are no longer produced only from paper - polymer components and various natural materials are actively used. But the most important thing is different: a convenient form of their release, good adaptation to various building structures, proven pasting technologies, high-quality adhesive compositions - all this greatly facilitates the process of such finishing, and for this it is not at all necessary to be a professional master. If there were any statistics on this score, then, of course, it would show that the vast majority of families wallpaper the walls on their own. Naturally, not everyone immediately succeeds in quality - errors, and sometimes even damaged sheets, are at first for everyone. But it's good that there is the Internet - you can always find a hint on how to glue the wallpaper correctly, avoiding the most common mistakes.

What wallpaper to choose?

The main types of wallpaper

The modern range of wallpapers is extremely wide. The buyer has the opportunity to choose a finish for every taste - by material, color and relief design, by operational and environmental performance and, of course, in terms of affordability. Consider briefly the main types of modern wallpaper:

Paper wallpaper - "old-timers" in a number of finishing materials. They attract with a low price, a wide variety of designs, and the relative ease of self-sticking. True, they do not differ in durability, as well as in resistance to moisture, and even more so to wet cleaning, therefore they are more suitable for living quarters and are not recommended for finishing the walls of kitchens, hallways, bathrooms, etc.

One of the main advantages of paper wallpaper is the environmental friendliness of the material and good vapor permeability - the wall remains "breathable".

However, and paper wallpaper may vary. The simplest ones are single-layer wallpapers, or, in other words, of the "simplex" type. They are usually thinner than multi-layer ones, less resistant to all external influences, and special care is required when gluing them - paper soaked with glue is easy to tear.

Two-layer ("duplex") wallpaper - higher quality. The lower base layer is responsible for the secure fixation of the finish on the wall, and the upper one gives the necessary decorative effect. Such wallpapers are denser, the print quality on them is higher, with more detail, and often, in addition to colorful, they also have a relief embossed design.

Sticking such wallpapers on the wall is already much easier, since they will not “creep” from soaking or greatly change their linear dimensions.

Paper wallpapers can be smooth, have the already mentioned relief embossing, or have a structural surface. During the production process, crushed wood waste, which gives the surface a chaotic structural pattern. Typically, these wallpapers are produced in monochrome (most often white) and are intended for pasting walls for further painting. This approach is convenient because if the fights are glued with high quality, then the owners will have the opportunity to change the color that has become boring over time - the coating can withstand several repainting cycles.

In addition, paper can be the base layer for other types of wallpaper - this will be discussed below.

Non-woven wallpaper. Relatively recently, interlining began to act as a serious "competitor" to plain paper. In fact, these two materials are "relatives" since both are made on the basis of natural cellulose, and the difference is only in the technology of its processing. Thus, interlining is also considered quite environmentally friendly, and it is even used in medicine.

On that nonwoven fabric paint is also easily applied, printing drawings are applied, it can be embossed, although non-woven wallpaper is still inferior to paper wallpaper in terms of the variety of design. Due to the fact that the material is less hygroscopic, much less susceptible to soaking and the accompanying deformation, it has become an excellent basis for making wallpaper. We can say that among all types of wallpaper, it is non-woven wallpaper that is the easiest to stick, and even an inexperienced master should be able to cope with the task.

In other words, non-woven wallpaper, while maintaining the main advantages of paper, is still a "step forward", as they have a lot of advantages, including greater durability and resistance to external influences. The only thing they seriously lose in is availability, since the price for them is already significantly higher.

Another important feature that can be considered both as a disadvantage and as an advantage. Non-woven has a translucent structure, so that through purely non-woven wallpaper, even the background of the wall surface can shine through. This is not always good, but on the other hand - why not take the opportunity to give the wall an interesting shade!

Like paper, interlining can be used as a base layer for other types of wallpaper.

To be more precise, these are two-layer wallpapers on a paper or non-woven base, having an external decorative coating of polyvinyl chloride.

The outer polymer layer is not afraid high humidity, abrading loads, so the finished wall can be subjected to periodic cleaning, including using detergents. This, in principle, predetermines the scope of such wallpapers - they are ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms, hallways. But for residential premises, especially for a bedroom or a nursery, it is better not to use such a finish - the walls will not “breathe”, condensation may appear on them, and many may not like the light characteristic “aroma” of PVC.

Vinyl wallpapers are quite heavy, so a special composition is required for gluing them - this is always indicated on the packaging.

In terms of design, vinyl wallpapers are very diverse: from a textured pattern with a deep relief to multi-color bright canvases, including those with photo printing or with a very reliable imitation of stone, wood, and other natural materials.

Fabric wallpaper, also on a paper or non-woven basis - quite expensive pleasure, although, we agree, they give the walls a very unusual design. They can be made from linen, silk, jute textiles, felt, velor.

Fabric wallpapers give the room a special comfort, and the walls add warmth and sound insulation. However, such a finish attracts dust well, which can firmly sit between the fibers, so cleaning with a vacuum cleaner will have to be carried out with enviable regularity.

Sticking such wallpapers is the lot of masters, and beginners should not take on such an activity - there is a great risk of spoiling very expensive material.

There are other, more "exotic" types of wallpaper - based on fiberglass or fiberglass, natural materials - cork, bamboo or palm fibers, quartz and metallized (foil) decorative coatings. We will not dwell on them, since the scope of such a finish is not wide, and an independent sticker without relevant experience is simply impossible.

Many have heard of "liquid wallpaper." But this already generally lies on a different plane, and the finishing technology is closer to plastering work than to the sticker sheet material.

What is it - "liquid wallpaper"?

This technology gives a very interesting effect of wall decoration. , and even how to make the material necessary for this with your own hands - read in a special publication of our portal.

Before acquiring wallpaper, the owners must clearly determine which performance qualities of the material should become prevailing.

For living quarters, especially bedrooms and children, the emphasis should be on the environmental friendliness of the material - it is necessary to maintain a healthy, breathable atmosphere, and completely eliminate the likelihood of allergic reactions. At the same time, it’s a good idea to choose a material that can still be subjected to light wet cleaning at least occasionally.

But for the kitchen, coatings are required that will have to be washed often - greasy fumes from the stove will inevitably fall on the walls. For cramped hallways, wear resistance will probably come to the fore, for a bathroom - the hydrophobicity of the outer layer.

If there is a lot of sunlight in the room, you should pay attention to wallpaper that is resistant to fading, otherwise ultraviolet rays will quickly spoil the original look of the finish. Pets can also make their own adjustments - for example, cats often show obvious indifference to the soft, pliable surface of vinyl wallpaper.

The style of decorating the room with wallpaper is already a personal matter for the owners, although there are certain recommendations in this regard. They can be found on the pages of our portal.

When decorating rooms with wallpaper, it is necessary to adhere to certain canons

For example, the design of a sleeping room requires a special approach, so it is important to know how to do it right. If desired, you can create an exceptionally cozy one. And one more article of the portal will be useful to those apartment owners who want a wall in the room.

When buying wallpaper, you should not only listen to what the sales assistant tells you, but also familiarize yourself with the labels on the packaging of the rolls. There should be icons that carry a lot of extremely useful information. Samples of such marking badges are shown in the table below:

Type of marking icon	Deciphering the meaning of the icon	Type of marking icon	Deciphering the meaning of the icon
	Low moisture resistance, only for the period of wallpapering		Wallpapering does not require pattern alignment
	Regular wet cleaning of wallpaper is allowed.		Symmetrical arrangement of the pattern combined when pasting, horizontal alignment
	Wallpaper increased stability to moisture, an unlimited number of wet cleanings.		The pattern combined when pasting requires the sheets to be shifted by half the repeat, diagonal placement of the pattern
	Wear-resistant coating that allows wet cleaning with a brush.		Rapport - the vertical step of the pattern (numerator) and the amount of shift of the sheets for its alignment (denominator)
	Increased wear resistance of the wallpaper surface, an unlimited number of wet cleanings using brushes and detergents.		The wallpaper is glued with an overlap and leveled by cutting through both layers.
	Low resistance to ultraviolet sunlight.		Glue is applied to the wallpaper
	Wallpaper of satisfactory light fastness.		Glue is applied to the wall
	Good UV resistance.		Wallpaper with an applied adhesive layer, which is activated by wetting
	Wall-paper of high resistance to an ultraviolet.		Accompanying finishing materials can be offered for this type of wallpaper - borders, cornices, curtains, etc.
	Wallpaper with maximum resistance to UV puddles.		Duplex wallpaper with paper base and embossed top layer
	Wallpaper with increased surface resistance to mechanical stress (impact, scratching, etc.)		The wallpaper is removed in its entirety, dry
	All sheets of wallpaper are glued in one direction.		When removed from the wall, the wallpaper delaminates
	Reversible wallpaper - each next sheet is turned over by 180°.		Moisture is required to remove wallpaper from the wall

Despite the abundance of finishing materials, wallpapering the walls remains the most common way of decorating. By pasting the wallpaper, you can very quickly transform the room: make the room bright, “revive” the interior or place style accents.

To get the desired result, you must choose the right wallpaper and follow all the rules for repair work.

The choice of finishing material: features of different types of wallpaper

The process of finishing the walls begins with the choice facing material. If the choice is made in favor of traditional wallpaper, you need to decide on the best option. All types of wallpaper presented on the construction market have certain characteristics. Based on the qualities of the material, the conditions of their operation and personal preferences, you need to make a choice.

paper wallpaper- the most popular type of wallpaper in the world. Cloths have many advantages, but when using them, some disadvantages also appear. The main advantages include:

loyal pricing policy allows you to frequently update the interior of the room;
a wide selection of colors and patterns;
environmental friendliness and hypoallergenicity of the material - wallpapers are ideal for children's rooms;
The material is highly breathable, thus preventing the formation of mold.

Disadvantages of paper products:

wallpapers quickly lose their original appearance - they fade in the sun, wear out and wear out;
most paper wallpapers cannot be washed;
such material is not suitable for use in "wet" rooms.

Advice. When planning paper wallpaper for walls, it is better to choose modern duplex (two-layer) canvases. They are stronger and less prone to contamination. Some duplex wallpapers can be washed.

Vinyl wallpapers. The main advantages of the finishing material: moisture resistance and beautiful appearance. The basis of such wallpaper is interlining or paper, the top layer is treated with polyvinyl chloride. Vinyl wallpapers are available a wide range drawings and textures (embossed).

Vinyl coating protects decorative trim from sunlight, humidity and reduces the attraction of dust. These wallpapers are best suited for the corridor, bathroom and kitchen. Most PVC sheets are paintable.

The disadvantage of vinyl wallpaper is poor permeability. PVC film does not let air through, the walls do not breathe. As a result, the microclimate worsens in the room, the room must be ventilated more often.

Important! Some manufacturers use innovative technologies and produce vinyl-coated wallpapers with a porous structure. This allows the material to pass air in sufficient volume.

Vinyl wallpapers are not cheap, but their high cost fully pays off with a long service life - the coating retains its decorative effect for up to 10 years.

Today, several types of vinyl wallpaper are used:

hard vinyl coating - a solid base is applied to the base that can withstand significant mechanical damage;
smooth vinyl coating - forms a smooth, even surface that is more susceptible to damage;
silk screen printing is one of the most spectacular types of wallpaper; hot stamping technology creates the impression that the wallpaper contains natural silk threads;
foamed vinyl - is considered the most durable and dense, due to the deep relief structure.

Non-woven wallpaper are made on the basis of cellulose and consist of 2 layers: interlining and polymer coating. The combination of the two layers resulted in the following characteristics:

high strength - non-woven wallpaper is stronger than textile and paper;
the ability to hide wall irregularities and microcracks;
wallpaper is easy to stick - if the technology is followed, the material does not deform or bubble;
air passage;
choice of wallpaper texture - embossed or smooth;
wallpaper well "lay down" on plaster, wood, cement, slabs and other materials.

Important! Distinctive feature pasting with flesilin wallpaper - fastening on a wall covered with glue.

Textile wallpapers produced on the basis of fleece and paper. From above, the base layer is covered with textiles (jute, polyester, linen, cotton, etc.). It is the top layer that largely determines the final cost of the finishing material. Fabric wallpapers perform not only a decorative role, they have noise and heat insulation properties.

With the help of such wallpapers you can create original interior. However, they also have negative sides:

exactingness when gluing - it will be difficult for an inexperienced master to do the work;
intolerance to wet cleaning limits the scope of the use of textile wallpaper.

Glass cloth wallpaper- a wall covering made of glass fibers of different thicknesses with subsequent impregnation. Glass fiber - unique finishing material, which has a number of undeniable advantages:

fire-fighting properties;
naturalness and safety of use;
high strength and resistance to any damage;
durability - service life of about 30 years;
repel dust and easy to clean;
Due to the woven structure, air is passed through.

How to glue non-woven wallpaper correctly: step by step instructions

Foundation preparation

The process of pasting any wallpaper, including non-woven, begins with a thorough preparation of the walls. This stage takes a lot of time, but the final result largely depends on the quality of its implementation. What activities are mandatory? The previous coating from the walls must be removed and the surface leveled.

Removing old wallpaper. To soften the coating, you can use a normal soap solution. To improve the effect, it is desirable to add a little wallpaper glue. Washable old wallpaper or very dense, you first need to trim a little, apply notches, and then moisten with soapy water. After such processing, leave the wallpaper for a while - the coating will swell and it can be easily removed with a spatula.

Sometimes the procedure has to be repeated several times. To facilitate the removal of wallpaper, you can purchase a special tool designed for this purpose - the solution is well absorbed and "softens" the material.

Enamel removal and old paint . In the "Khrushchev", "Stalinka" and apartments of the Brezhnev era, walls covered with paint are often found. If the coating peels off well, then it is cleaned with a spatula. However, in the vast majority, it takes a lot of effort to remove old paint. The enamel is tapped with a hatchet and scraped off with a flat cutter or chisel.

Removing whitewash. Water-based paint or whitewash is pre-wetted with soap and water and then removed with a spatula. Thin layer old whitewash rinses off easily with hot water.

The next step is to level the walls. All irregularities, cracks and other defects must be plastered or puttied. If the surface crumbles and crumbles, it is advisable to treat it with a bonding primer.

Required Tools

To complete the work you will need:

roulette;
laser level or vertical plumb line with a cord;
roller with a long pile;
brush for smoothing wallpaper;
plastic spatula with a soft edge for rolling wallpaper;
construction knife for cutting wallpaper;
metal spatula (narrow);
foam sponge;
glue tray;
pencil;
ladder.

Material calculation and wall marking.

To calculate the required amount of wallpaper, you should know the dimensions of the room. As a rule, the height of the ceilings ranges from 2.5-2.8 m, the length of the roll is 10 m. That is, one roll should be enough for three strips. Knowing the width of the roll and the perimeter of the room, you can easily calculate the total number of strips.

Most non-woven wallpaper has smooth, high-quality edges. Therefore, they are glued end-to-end. At the same time, the connection of the panels looks like a single solid surface. To facilitate further work, it is desirable to apply markup.

From the corner of the room at a distance equal to the width of the roll (0.5 - 1.2 m), draw a vertical line. Use a level to check for evenness. The lines are applied all over the wall.

Wallpapering steps

Important! Before cutting off the next canvas, you should measure the height of the walls in different places, for example, every 30-40 cm. Very often the walls have drops and the length of different cuts can differ significantly from each other.

If the wallpaper has a large pattern, then it must be selected. You can find out the size of the fit from the pictogram on the label. When marking and cutting, it is important to control that the image matches and that you do not have to glue a piece of canvas from below or from above.

For example, if the required fit size is 48 cm and the ceiling height is 2.5 m, then the length of each piece will be 2.88 m. 48 cm, but not less than the height of the room.

After the calculation, you can start cutting. Cover the floor with plastic wrap and roll out the roll face down. Measure the length of the cut (in our example, 2.88 m) and make a notch with a knife. Using a long ruler, bend the wallpaper at the serif level, check the evenness of the fold and cut off the sheet.

Spread the next sheet and check the fit of the patterns of the two canvases. If the workpieces fit well, then you can cut.

Glue preparation. For wallpapering, you need to choose an adhesive composition that matches the type of material: paper, vinyl, flesilin, textiles or fiberglass. Before mixing glue, read the instructions.

The general procedure for preparing glue:

Pour the dry mixture into a mixing container.
Gently pour water into the powder in a thin stream, stirring with a whisk.
Leave the mixture to infuse and mix again, removing lumps.

Wallpapering. Direct pasting of walls is carried out in the following sequence:

How to glue wallpaper: video

How to glue vinyl wallpaper correctly: the nuances of doing the job

The procedure for gluing a vinyl sheet is not much different from pasting with non-woven wallpaper. However, there are several nuances:

The choice of glue must be approached responsibly. Vinyl wallpaper has the ability to stretch when the adhesive is applied and shrink after it dries. Poor-quality adhesive composition may not be able to cope with such a load and the seams will simply disperse.
When pasting, a moderate amount of glue is applied to the walls to prevent excessive stretching of the canvas.
In some cases, it is allowed to apply glue not only to the surface of the wall, but also to the canvas itself.
Particular attention is paid to the seams. They must be carefully rolled out with a roller so that they do not disperse.

How to glue wallpaper correctly: photo of joining canvases

How to glue paper wallpaper correctly: features of cutting and gluing

The technology of pasting walls with paper wallpaper depends on their variety: simplex or duplex. Simplex single-layer wallpaper is applicable only for perfectly flat walls - the canvas is very thin and all cracks and pits will be visible through it. Laying such wallpaper is overlapped. Duplex are glued only end-to-end.

The main requirement that must be met when working with paper wallpaper: after applying the glue to the sheet, it must be left to “ripen” for 2-7 minutes (the time depends on the density of the material).

When cutting wallpaper, pay attention to the presence of an edge. Some foreign manufacturers produce wallpaper with an edge on only one edge, domestic - on both. For dense canvases that are glued end-to-end, the border is cut off on both sides, for thin wallpapers - on one side. It is convenient to cut the border on a chair - the unnecessary edge is removed, and the wallpaper rolls back into a roll.

Another nuance when working with classic wallpaper is decorating the walls with borders. You can glue the decor only after the wallpaper has completely dried. It usually takes 12-32 hours for the paper to dry. This period depends on the amount of glue spread, the density of the material and the conditions in the room.

How to glue the corners with wallpaper

Outer corner wrap:

Measure the distance from the last pasted strip of wallpaper to the corner.
Cut off a sheet of wallpaper whose width is 2.5 cm more than the measured distance.
Glue the strip, bending the excess wallpaper to the opposite corner.
At right angle the rest is glued end-to-end, in other cases - overlapped along the vertical markings.
With a sharp knife, go along the corner, attaching a ruler. At the same time, you need to press the edges. Remove cuts.

Interior corner finish:

The main rule: you should never lay a single piece of wallpaper on the corner. If this condition is neglected, then folds and bulges are formed.

Measure the distance from the corner to the last strip of wallpaper and add 2 cm.
Cut off the desired piece of wallpaper and stick it on the wall, capturing the corner.
Press the paper firmly against the wall by running a blunt object over it.
Glue the remaining piece with a cut with a slight overlap on the adjacent wall.
Attach a ruler to the junction of the walls and hold with a knife, removing excess material.

How to glue wallpaper end-to-end in the corners: video

How to glue fiberglass wallpaper

When pasting with glass wallpaper, it is important to follow some rules:

Glue is applied to the wall, not to the canvas.
For work it is necessary to use glue for heavy types of wallpaper.
At first glance, fiberglass wallpapers have equivalent surfaces, but this is not so. Front side, according to international standards, on a roll facing inward. The wrong side of some manufacturers is marked with a blue or gray stripe.
Time of full drying of cullets - 24 hours.
After drying, the wallpaper can be decorated and painted. It is advisable to pre-prime the surface - this contributes to the economical use of decorative material and paint.

Before pasting walls or ceilings with wallpaper in wet rooms, the surface must be treated with a fungicidal mixture - this will protect the coating from the appearance of fungus.
The readiness of the walls before gluing can be checked experimentally:
- stick a piece of polyethylene with adhesive tape to the wall;
- leave the cellophane for a day;
- if after 24 hours perspiration appeared inside the film, it means it is too early to start pasting; if the cellophane remains dry, then the wall is completely dry and ready for further finishing.
To avoid the appearance of wrinkles and bubbles, pasting must be carried out under the following conditions:
- it is desirable to perform work at a temperature of 23-25 ° C;
- walls that have just been pasted over with wallpaper must be protected from drafts until the coating is completely dry;
- it is highly undesirable to get sunlight on the wallpaper.

How to glue the ceiling with wallpaper: video

When repairing an apartment, many are faced with a choice: paint the walls or paste them with wallpaper? To answer this question, many different factors must be taken into account. To facilitate the choice, you should know that wallpapers have two big advantages over painting - when using them, the walls are decorated with a pleasant pattern, they can be made textured, suitable for the design of your apartment. To do this, you just need to learn a few tricks for quick wallpaper stickers. Below are recommendations and technology for performing such work.

Before you start wallpapering, you need to make sure that they are all from the same batch and that they are enough to cover the entire area with a margin.

How to choose the right wallpaper for a room

The collections of these products offered on the market and in construction stores represent huge selection according to parameters such as:

wallpaper material texture;
various types of design studies;
texture of various types;
variety of color compositions.

The wallpapers themselves are divided into the following types:

ordinary wallpaper, washable, waterproof - in relation to moisture;
heavy and light - by density;
smooth wallpaper, with a relief surface, with a small or deep pattern - according to the type of surface;
single-color species or with small and large patterns - by color;
combined wallpaper.

To choose the wallpaper suitable for your apartment, you must be guided by the following principles:

Figure 1. Scheme for applying glue to wallpaper.

Determine the nature of the pattern - the pattern must be symmetrical. This will reduce problems when sticking and will have great importance when calculating the number of rolls.
The main pattern should be periodically repeated along the entire length.
The step of the pattern in the figure is the distance between the repeating parts. It ranges from 5 to 30 cm. The larger this number, the more carefully it will be necessary to coordinate adjacent canvases with each other when fitting edges, and this increases the amount of waste.

Back to index

How to calculate the required number of wallpapers

First, measure the height of the walls from floor to ceiling. Rolls are usually 10 m long. Therefore, we divide ten by the figure obtained during the measurement and we get the number of whole panels that will go to the wall from one roll. The width of the wallpaper is 50 cm, so we measure the room along the perimeter and divide this number by 0.5 (all measurements must be made in meters) and by the number of panels obtained earlier. As a result, we get the number of rolls needed for the room. To eliminate the error and insure against troubles, it is necessary to purchase 1-2 rolls more than the calculated result when buying. Wallpapering one room takes one day. When buying them, make sure that all rolls have the same design number. Combined wallpaper It is not recommended to stick it yourself - for this work it is better to call a specialist.

Back to index

How to prepare the wall surface

Wallpaper is glued to drywall or plastered walls. Sticking new rolls on old ones is not recommended.

If the wall is painted, then you need to clean it of paint with a special liquid (it is sold in hardware stores). A layer of wallpaper paste is applied to the porous surface of the plaster before sticking, which is then allowed to dry - this will help move the canvases along the walls to match the patterns.

Back to index

How to mark up a room

Pasting must be started from the corner - this is necessary to hide the defects of the pattern if it is not aligned correctly (usually this happens on the first or last piece). When applying a large drawing, it must be taken into account that if there is any architectural decoration in the room (arch, fireplace), then the first canvas will need to be glued along the axis of this object. Subsequent pieces are glued on both sides of the first.

Having found the starting point, the roll is used as a template for marking the position of the panels on the wall. If the joint is in an inconvenient place, then you need to shift the reference point. If a earlier man did not do such work, it is best to choose wallpaper with a small pattern when buying, when sticking which an arbitrary combination of patterns is possible. If you don’t want to mess around with glue, you can choose rolls with ready-made adhesive film - they are much easier to glue. Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the direction of the pattern itself - often manufacturers mark it with an arrow that points upwards towards the ceiling.

Back to index

Wallpaper cutting

First you need to measure the length of the wall and add 10-15 cm to the resulting figure to fit on each side. Then the roll is unfolded and the marking of the pieces begins. If the allowance is taken less, then there will be a need for more careful marking. When used in the work of the table, it can be used as a template. From the very beginning, the first piece is cut off, making a minimum allowance of 5 cm. The pattern of the subsequent panel must be combined with the image on the first piece. Before marking the entire roll, measuring the length along the table top and combining the patterns on all pieces.

Back to index

How to choose glue

If waterproof wallpaper (vinyl or washable) is selected, then you will need a special adhesive composition with fungicide additives that will prevent mold from appearing on the walls. When using ordinary wallpaper, a simple wallpaper paste is bought. Its label indicates the number of rolls that can be glued by purchasing the amount of adhesive in the pack. Do not try to stick new canvases on old wallpaper - the glue will saturate them unevenly and they will fall behind the wall.

To dilute it, slowly pour the contents of the package into the amount of water indicated on the label. The mixture is constantly stirred to prevent lumps from forming. It is necessary to let the glue settle (the time of this operation is indicated on the label). It retains its properties for about 6-7 days.

The marked pieces of wallpaper are laid out on the floor. They must be placed face down. Glue is applied to the middle of the piece and smeared with a brush or hair brush over the entire surface of the canvas for its entire length. If at the same time the glue gets on the floor, it must be immediately wiped off with a damp sponge. The smeared edge of the piece is folded with glue inside, which allows you to keep it from drying out and gives you time to transfer the canvas to the wall.

If you work with thick wallpaper, then they need to be given time to soak with glue. Therefore, the canvas ready for gluing is temporarily set aside and they begin to smear the adhesive composition on the next piece. It is possible to use wallpaper with an adhesive composition applied by the manufacturer.

To stick such products, you need to use a plastic trough, in which you should put a roll of wallpaper. Fill the container with water and place it near the wall. Cut a piece of the desired length (do not forget the allowances) and fold the roll with the upper end outward and face up. Immerse the wallpaper in water for the time indicated on the label, and then take it by the upper edge and drag it along the wall towards the ceiling. Excess water will drain into the trough. The panel is adjusted to the desired size, smoothed and cut according to the markup.

Back to index

How to paste wallpaper: the process of wallpapering and fitting

The first piece is glued with a plumb line. Since the corners of the room are never strictly vertical, it is not recommended to align the first canvas along them.

If the piece is not properly engaged, a defect will be revealed in the location of the main pattern.

Therefore, using a plumb line, a vertical line is applied to the wall. The distance from the corner of the room should be 2.5 cm less than the width of the roll. To work, you need a table or stepladder, otherwise it will be impossible to reach the ceiling. Approaches to the walls should be free, as you need to work quickly until the glue is dry.

Bring the canvas to the wall and bend the top edge. Move it up so that it goes up to the ceiling by about 5 cm. Align the edge of the piece with a vertical line drawn along the wall. During this process, part of the canvas will lie on the adjacent wall and close the corner. Smooth the wallpaper with a soft cloth or hair brush. The direction is maintained from the center to the edges. Then unfold the lower part, with glue and, pressing it against the wall, smooth it out. The part located in the corner is carefully leveled.

Take out the furniture and cover with a film those items that cannot be removed. Remove shelves and decorations, sockets and switches from the walls, as well as, if possible, door trims and skirting boards.

Wallpapering is a wet job. Therefore, be sure to turn off the electricity.

If this cannot be done in only one room, insulate the ends of the wires and close them with plugs.

For a dark room, you can make temporary lighting. For example, stretch extension cords from another room and put desktop ones.

If the floors are finished with a material that is afraid of moisture, cover them with plastic wrap.

How to remove old wallpaper

If you stick new wallpaper on the old one, the result is unlikely to suit you. The top layer of old paper wallpaper can peel off after contact with water-based glue, and when it dries, a bubble is likely to form in this place. And if there is a convex pattern on the previous wallpaper, then the new coating will turn out to be uneven.

In addition, due to poor ventilation of the walls under the wallpaper, it can form.

You can remove the old paper coating with a spatula. Pry off the wallpaper with them, pull the bent part and tear it off the walls.

To facilitate the process, soften the glue that holds the old wallpaper. To do this, you will need a container of water, a scraper and a sponge. Dampen the canvases with water using a roller or spray them with a spray bottle. Scrape off the wallpaper with a scraper and wash off the residue with a wet sponge.

Anton Toskuev, head of the construction department of the service of ready repair solutions "Tnomer"

For greater efficiency, you can dissolve a little in water. It will definitely help if there are wallpapers on the walls that could not be removed with plain water.

Thus, you can easily and fairly quickly remove paper wallpapers. But on non-woven or vinyl, you must first walk with a spiked roller in order to violate the integrity of the cover.

Sometimes the wallpaper is treated with hot steam, a spiked roller is passed over it, and only then it is moistened. Through the holes, water will penetrate better.

If water does not help, it can be replaced by special means to remove wallpaper. Such compositions dissolve the adhesive.

How to remove paint

On a smooth surface, the wallpaper will not last long, so you need to get rid of the paint layer. You can clean it off with the same spatula, but it will take a lot of time.

You can use a puncher with a wide spatula or a grinder with a grinding nozzle. Please note that there will be a lot of dust in the process. So don't forget to wear a mask.

There are also special solutions designed to remove paint. They are applied to the surface with a roller or a wide brush, moving in one direction. After the time indicated on the package, the paint will soften, and then it will be much easier to remove it.

Keep in mind that such products are very toxic and disappear for a long time. It is necessary to work with gloves, goggles and a respirator and with open windows.

A building hair dryer can also come to the rescue. Under its influence, the paint melts and is easily removed with a scraper or spatula. In this case, you can’t do without a respirator either: there will be a pungent smell in the room.

This video shows the process of removing paint with a building dryer:

How to prepare the walls

After getting rid of the old finishing coatings, the walls must be primed. This will prevent the appearance of mold and prevent the putty and new wallpaper from falling off.

The primer must be applied from the bottom up. It is most convenient to do this with a roller, and in the corners with a brush.

Then you need to wait until the liquid dries. It takes about 10-15 hours, but the exact time should be indicated on the package.

After small irregularities, holes or chips on the walls are hidden with a layer of putty. It is applied with a wide spatula and leveled with even pressure.

The drying time of the putty is also indicated on the packaging.

After the putty has dried, level the surface of the walls with a grater with an abrasive mesh fixed on it. Then clean the walls with a brush and a damp cloth to remove any dust that has formed.

Yulia Soldatova, expert of the decor department of the Leroy Merlin company

After that, the walls need to be treated again with a regular shop primer.

You can also use a weak solution of wallpaper paste: about 300 g per 10-12 liters of water. A primer made of PVA construction glue will cost much less: it is enough to dilute 2 cups in a 10-liter bucket of water. These methods are effective, but they will not protect the walls from the reproduction of microorganisms, since the adhesive does not have antiseptic properties.

After the final coat of primer has dried, wallpaper can be glued.

How to measure and cut wallpaper

If the wallpaper does not require matching the pattern, you can simply measure the height of the wall with a tape measure and cut off the required amount from the wallpaper rolled out on the floor. To make the strip even, the wallpaper is folded in half and cut along the fold.

If the walls in the apartment are not very even, you will have to measure the length of each strip.

If the wallpaper needs to be customized according to the pattern, you will have to act a little differently. It is necessary to cut the strips from two rolls at once. Wallpaper consumption in this case will be less than if you customize the pattern using only one roll.

First, cut one strip, lay it face up on the floor, roll out the second roll and attach it to the strip so that the pattern matches. After that, you can cut a new strip.

Lifehacker spoke in great detail about the calculation of the required number of wallpapers in this article:

And yes, don't throw away the scraps. They can be used near windows or above a door.

Wallpaper should be glued in a circle, that is, one strip after another. The starting point of pasting is actually not so important. However, for many, the usual starting point is the edge of the window.

Firstly, the front page needs a level reference point, and windows, especially in older houses, are often flatter than corners or doorways.

Secondly, a few decades ago, most often used paper wallpaper, which is glued with an overlap. And if the light falls from the side of the window, during the day the seams are less conspicuous.

thewalls.ru

But if the wallpaper strips are glued back to back, then you can start from the door or corner.

Wallpaper with a pattern is better to start gluing in an inconspicuous place. For example, where it will stand. The fact is that the space between the first and penultimate bands can be quite narrow. Because of this, the last stripe may not match the drawing with the first.

It is very important to glue the first strip evenly.

Via building level or a plumb line, draw a strictly vertical line on the wall. It will serve as a beacon to which you should navigate when gluing. This will avoid distortion.
Yulia Soldatova, expert of the decor department of the Leroy Merlin company

diy-ally.com

How to stick stripes

Be sure to close all windows and doors tightly before wallpapering. If there is a draft in the room, the wallpaper will simply fall off the walls.

On the inserts in the rolls it is written where the glue is applied: on the wallpaper or directly on the wall. In addition, the time of impregnation of the canvas with glue should be indicated there. In this article, Lifehacker explained what the signs on the roll mean:

And on the packaging with glue should be indicated how to properly dilute it.

It is good if the adhesive contains substances that prevent the appearance of mold. In addition, the adhesive must be environmentally friendly.
Anton Toskuev, head of the construction department of the service of ready repair solutions "Tnomer"

If glue is applied to the wallpaper, then for better impregnation, fold the ends of the strip to the middle with glue inward, and then several more times, without pressing the folds. Do not overexpose, consider the time indicated in the instructions.

Then attach the wallpaper to the line drawn on the wall. The canvas is glued from top to bottom, while a few centimeters must be brought to the ceiling and floor or baseboard.

Smooth the wallpaper with a roller or dry brush from the middle to the edges and from top to bottom.

diy-ally.com

There should be no air bubbles between the wall and the canvas. If they do appear, pierce them with a needle and gently smooth the surface.

Cut off excess wallpaper from the top and bottom. To do this, press them well against the edges so that a fold is formed, which will serve as a cutting line. You can also press the wallpaper with a spatula and cut off the excess with a clerical knife.

diy-ally.com

The following strips are glued according to the same principle, only the edge of the previous canvas will serve as a guide.

Please note that thin paper wallpapers are glued slightly overlapped, and wallpapers made of denser materials are butted.

The joints between the strips need to be ironed with a small rubber roller. Excess adhesive can be removed with a soft damp sponge.

diy-ally.com

How to glue wallpaper in inner corners

Glue the first strip, leading it around the corner by 1–2 cm. In this case, it must first be cut to the required width. Glue the next strip straight from the corner, overlapping.

If the wallpaper is thick, then a double strip of wallpaper will be visible. In this case, firmly press the wallpaper with a spatula in the place where the canvases are glued to each other, and draw a line with a clerical knife. Then remove the two narrow strips left over from both strips and smooth the seam.

How to glue wallpaper in outer corners

The technique is almost the same as the previous one. The first strip should be led around the corner by a few centimeters, and the second should be glued with an overlap.

diy-ally.com

Then attach a ruler to the corner and run a clerical knife so as to cut off the edges of both strips. Remove excess parts and tighten the canvases if necessary. Iron the seam between the stripes with a roller.

diy-ally.com

How to glue wallpaper around windows and doors

When you get to the window or door, stick the strip in the same way as the previous ones. Then carefully cut off the excess wallpaper around the edges.

diy-ally.com

How to glue wallpaper behind batteries

Measure the height and cut off the required amount of wallpaper. Attach the canvas to the battery and make vertical cuts on the wallpaper at the places where it is attached to the wall. Copiously coat the canvas with glue, put it behind the battery and level it.

The video shows this process in detail:

How to glue wallpaper behind pipes

Start gluing the canvas, and make an incision at the beginning of the pipe. Having led the strip behind the pipe, cut off excess wallpaper around it and level the canvas.

Here are the detailed instructions:

Mark their edges on the canvas with four diagonal lines. Then carefully cut out the window in the right place and smooth the wallpaper with a roller.

diy-ally.com

How to fix defects after gluing

Directly in the process of work, until the glue has dried, the strips can be slightly pulled towards each other right on the wall. After that, it can no longer be repeated. Therefore, be extremely careful.

Defects in the form of air bubbles that appear on the wallpaper after drying can be corrected.

To do this, draw glue into the syringe, pierce the bubble and inject a little glue from top to bottom. Then smooth the surface with a roller or cloth.

If the edges of the wallpaper are lagging behind, they can be glued either with a brush or using the same syringe with glue. Flatten the canvas and, for reliability, press with a dry cloth for a few minutes.

If a wide gap has formed between the strips of wallpaper, cut out a strip of the required thickness from the remnants of the wallpaper and glue it end-to-end at the gap.

If the gap is very narrow, you can dip the edge of the spatula or ruler into the paint of the same color as the wallpaper, and paint over the gap. You can also use an ordinary felt-tip pen for these purposes.

Do not forget that after pasting the room, it cannot be ventilated until the wallpaper is dry.

As a rule, paper wallpapers dry for at least 12 hours, non-woven - about a day, and vinyl - about two days. The time may increase if the room is humid and low temperature. To check for sure, touch the pasted walls with your hand: they must be dry.