Do-it-yourself soundproofing framed plasterboard partitions. We mount GVL on the walls: step-by-step instruction Profile for partitions from GVL

23.04.2020

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum coziness and comfort in what we have. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully meet the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional areas, dividing it with frame partitions sheathed with plasterboard, and installing a door.

Anatomy of a drywall construction

Despite the features of the interior, your design intent, as well as the location and size of the drywall partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. They are based on a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with wooden beams at the installation point. doorway. To improve the heat and sound insulation properties, the crate is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the design. Mounted and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides drywall sheets(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The frame from the profile is filled with insulation and sheathed with plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions, sheathed with gypsum boards, are used to divide or zoning space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are mounted in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of drywall allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special requirements for fire safety.

Advantages

Frame structures sheathed with drywall sheets have long and with great success replaced brick or wood partitions due to a number of characteristic advantages:

Material properties. A durable metal profile allows you to mount light partition frames of any shape and size, which do not create additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material that has been specially treated to improve fire and moisture resistance. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GCR has a perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishes.
fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - even a novice, "inexperienced" home master in construction work can create them. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product is easily disassembled and reassembled.
Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
Minimum cost. All the elements that make up the partition sheathed with plasterboard are of low cost. During the installation of the product, piles of construction debris and dust are not formed, it is not exceeded allowable level noise and use less energy.

disadvantages

Be sure to note the design flaws that must be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction(brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
Low resistance of GKL to abundant exposure to moisture. The material can collapse as a result of a leak "organized" by neighbors living above.
The impossibility of fastening massive shelves on the surface of the partition or wall cabinets. The design is capable of holding a weight of up to 70 kg per linear meter, provided that the elements are fastened to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some shortcomings of the gypsum board, we note that the competent creation and proper operation of partitions made of this material will help to quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of the room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparation for work

That's it, this short "theory course" is over, let's move on to the solution practical issues. Let's look at the list first necessary tool, we list the materials that we need to build the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their number.

Tool

To install the partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

Roulette, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
Angle grinder ("Bulgarian") or scissors for metal - cutting profile strips into elements of the desired length.
Jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall files or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
Impact drill or perforator - making holes in load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and mounting sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition, you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! For mounting the structure at the upper levels, you will need a solid ladder-ladder. Work with a metal profile and drywall implies the mandatory use of tools personal protection- goggles or mask, thick gloves, respirator.

materials

For self-assembly of the partition, the following materials will be used:

Two types of metal profile for mounting the frame: PN - "guide" (English marking UW) - is attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls in order to design the outline of the structure. It is also used when creating a doorway. PS - "rack-mount" (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is the bearing element of the crate.
Plasterboard for sheathing - closes the frame on both sides.
Insulation - fills inner part structures, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the basic materials for the construction of a partition, it is necessary to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's consider this question in more detail:

Profile. Standard installation of interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the partition itself should be thicker.
Drywall. There are several types of material for sheathing the frame, the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use GKLV - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and the creation of curved and figured structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing the room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (corkboard or dense foam), and basalt wool, which perfectly stores heat, is useful to highlight the hallway area.

In addition to the main structural elements, to create it you will need:

Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) - installation of the profile to the ceilings.
Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) - fastening frame elements.
Self-tapping drywall piercing screws (MN 25 or MN 30) – cladding installation.
Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
Corner profile (PU) - reinforcement of the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The whole structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Master's advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas for screwing in self-tapping screws on the surface of the skin - a reinforcing sickle tape, a primer for gypsum boards, and finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchase of material, you should correctly calculate its required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of skin layers). Consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a profile frame 75 mm wide and single-layer sheathing with plasterboard sheets.

Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract from this value the width of the doorway (0.8) and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will fix entirely, vertically to the bearing walls. The rest of the length of 9.2 m will be covered with three four-meter strips of the profile (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for reinforcing the frame at the door installation site and mounting jumpers between the posts.
The black color indicates the UW profile, which forms the outline of the structure
Rack profile (CW). Given the standard width of the GKL sheet (1.2 m), the vertical racks of the frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the plates are connected on one profile, and one more element is in the middle of the sheet.
Frame racks should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other
Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and as a result we get 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).
The gray color marks the vertical posts of the partition frame from the CW profile
Profile for a doorway. At the door installation site, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a guide profile strip, the same constructive solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW), the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a segment of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.
Green color highlights two load-bearing reinforced racks, blue - lintel (upper beam) of the doorway
Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from the guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.
Jumpers from the UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure
Drywall. As a material for sheathing, we use sheets (plates) of GKL 3000 long, 1200 wide and 12.5 mm thick. To close one side of the frame, we need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. The calculation of drywall for the second side of the partition is performed so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are shifted by half the sheet. Five slabs are also needed here - two full and three trimmed.
On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way
The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one post or 600 mm

Advice of the master: Double-sided installation of GKL sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition - use two layers of drywall when sheathing it.

Summing up the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway, we need:

guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 lanes;
rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 strips;
drywall (GKL 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fasteners) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels that fasten the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are mounted every 250–300 mm.

Engineers German company KNAUF is a world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction- prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

Position	Name	Unit measurements	Quantity per sq. m
1	KNAUF-list (GKL, GKLV, GKLO)	sq. m	2,0
2	KNAUF profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40)	linear m	0,7
3	KNAUF profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50)	linear m	2,0
4	Screw TN 25	PCS.	29
5	Putty Knauf-Fugen	kg	0,6
6	Reinforcing tape	linear m	1,5
7	Dowel K 6/35	PCS.	1,6
8	Sealing tape	linear m	1,2
9	Primer Knauf-Tifengrund	l	0,2
10	Mineral wool insulation Knauf	sq. m	1,0
11	Knauf profile PU	PCS.	*

* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the construction area.

Attention! To simplify calculations during the construction of a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the base material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step by step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let's be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of the neighbors and proceed to the installation of the structure.

Expert tip: Any construction works with the use of drywall should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. Installation of structures is best done before finishing the floors and painting. Before measures to create a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and layout

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the place of its installation and draw up a schematic plan, according to which the markup will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have applied is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, here you need to add the thickness of the drywall boards and the layer of its finish.

Lathing installation

Having finished with the markup, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:

An angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors will cut pieces of the UW guide profile of the desired length. On the back side of the blanks, we will stick a sealing damper tape that softens sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.
Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibration
We fix the strips along the horizontal marking line by drilling holes for dowel-nails with a puncher (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering the fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen advise starting with the top rail located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot through” with a plumb line the correct installation of the floor profile.
We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a puncher and hammer the fasteners with a hammer
Install the vertical guides, fixing them to the bearing walls (with the same pitch) along the marking line and controlling the correct installation using building level. Note that fasteners of a metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel-nails (6x60 or 8x60).
When mounting the guides to the bearing walls, we check the vertical using the building level
Let's form doorway by installing racks made of reinforced profile in the marked place. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper part of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut off two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for reinforcing parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack and fix it on both sides with self-tapping screws for metal (every 150–200 mm) or you can strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, picking it up in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.
We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws
We install a reinforced stand in the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (this is where a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict vertical of the element with a level and fix the part with metal screws. We mount the second rack in the same way.
When installing the rack, first install it in the lower rail, then carefully insert it into the upper
Let's set the racks from the CW profile with a step of 600 mm, starting from any of bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, we perform fasteners with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should fall in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets with a standard width of 1200 mm will be joined.
The rack profile is attached to the rails with metal screws
We will mount the horizontal jumper (upper beam) of the doorway. We cut off a piece 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts from the guide profile strip. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip of the desired size with blind ends.
Inside the upper beam of the opening can be inserted wooden beam, further reinforcing the design
We will install a jumper between the posts of the opening in the right place (we will take into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing floor covering), check the horizontal with a building level and fix the part with self-tapping screws for metal. This structural element can also be strengthened in any of the ways mentioned.
If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, it will be necessary to manufacture and install additional stiffeners - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made in the same way as the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal self-tapping screws.
Option for the location of transverse jumpers in a frame with a height of more than 3 m
Inside the finished frame of the partition, we will install embedded elements from a profile, strong thick plywood or timber, to which it will be possible to attach hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces. After that, we will mount the electrical wiring, laying it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.
The wooden beam must be fixed at the installation sites of heavy hanging cabinets and other massive interior elements.

This completes the installation of the frame, you can proceed to the next, no less important step in creating the partition.

Sheathing of the frame with the installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with a special insulating material. Long-term practice shows that an inexpensive, but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Mineral wool slabs will reliably retain heat, as well as isolate the room from extraneous noise

Master's advice: In order to fill the frame of the interior partition, purchase mineral wool slabs or mats of the required thickness - the material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and fits comfortably between the elements of the crate.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

We will sheathe one side of the frame with drywall, starting from the whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm step counting began for racks from the CW profile. Remember that when installing the GKL, it is imperative to leave a gap of 5-10 mm at the junction of the plate with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and a “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and cracking.
The cladding is mounted from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began
We fasten the cladding sheet to the profile, twisting self-tapping screws for gypsum boards around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.
The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the drywall surface.
With a jigsaw or a knife, we cut the rest of the sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets are joined exactly in the middle of the rack profile.
We join drywall sheets exactly in the middle of the profile
Having closed one side of the frame, we lay the insulating material inside, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the racks by surprise.
Mineral wool cut to size slabs are laid between the racks of the crate
We mount the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of attaching the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.
We close the other side of the frame with gypsum plasterboard, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)
We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets at the installation site of the doorway with an angular profile.

Attention! When mounting the cladding from the GKL, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - you will have to insert additional elements profile to the frame.

final chords

Having finished the sheathing of the partition frame, we will insert a door block into it and solve the issue of finishing the surface of the drywall. If a strict vertical was observed during the installation of the opening, the installation of the block will not cause any difficulties.

The issue with the surface finish of the skin is also solved quite simply:

Now the partition with the door is ready for any kind of finishing - it can be pasted over with wallpaper, painted, applied ceramic tiles or decorative plaster - it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For a more detailed acquaintance with the installation process of a frame structure sheathed with drywall, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a GKL partition and install a door

Many years of professional experience shows that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing drywall for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in your dwelling. This material is easy to handle and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap at all. We hope that now you will be able to do this work yourself without any problems.

The gypsum fiber sheet used today is different, it all depends on its application. There are those that can only be used for dry rooms, and there are those that are suitable for conditions of high humidity. Manufacturers offer conventional GVL and moisture resistant, which can perfectly replace even tile in industrial premises, characterized by increased constant humidity (before installation, it is necessary to putty the walls!).

Characteristics of gypsum fiber.

In addition, GVL sheets are divided into standard and small format. Dimensions of standard plates are: 2500 mm - length, 1200 mm - width, 10/12 mm - thickness. Small-format sheets have dimensions: 1500 mm - length, 1000 mm - width, 10/12 millimeters - thickness. It is very convenient to mount such small sheets on the walls in bathrooms and toilets using the frameless method (after that, the walls must be puttied with special moisture-resistant compounds).

All sheets that are used for mounting on walls have a marking on the back side containing the characteristics of the sheet, its date of manufacture, and the name of the company that produced the material. The marking must necessarily contain information on the type of the longitudinal edge of the plate, the exact name of the material (normal or waterproof), the dimensions of one sheet in millimeters; designation of the group to which the material belongs.

Mounting

Wall priming scheme.

Installation of GVL can be carried out on cleaned walls or after their putty (this depends on the condition of the wall). To do this, use the adhesive method, when the plates are glued to the surface using gypsum putty or special glue. This can be done in several ways, depending on the curvature of the wall, in some cases it is necessary to pre-putty them.

For the frame method, a special galvanized metal profile or wooden slats are used, to which the sheet is screwed.

The process of laying gypsum boards

Do-it-yourself installation of gypsum-fiber sheets on walls can be done using two methods: frameless and frame. In the first case, GVL boards are glued to the surface, in the second, a special frame is first installed with their own hands, to which the sheets are screwed. Let's take a closer look at both styling methods.

Do-it-yourself frameless installation

Stages of laying gvl on the floor

For GVL sheets, the frameless method is rarely used, but for residential walls, it is gypsum-fiber boards that are the most preferred option. Installation by this method is carried out in the following sequence:

If the walls are uneven up to 4 mm, the sheets must be glued directly to the surface of the walls using gypsum putty, which is applied in longitudinal ridges in a fairly thin layer around the perimeter of the GVL slab, after which the sheet is glued to the wall.
If the irregularities are 4-20 mm, the sheets are laid using a special adhesive, for example, Perflix. The composition is applied to the GVL surface in the middle and along the perimeter of the plate in increments of 30-35 centimeters.
If the irregularities are very large, from 20 to 40 mm, then the installation is more difficult. First, with the help of special glue, GVL strips with a width of 100 mm are glued to the surface of the walls with their own hands, and only then the plates themselves are glued to them using gypsum putty.

Installation by the frameless method is carried out in this way:

The scheme of fastening drywall to glue.

Installation must be carried out before the finishing flooring. The room temperature must be between + 10°C. The sheets themselves should be kept in the room where the installation will take place before work for two to three days. Humidity and temperature conditions must be maintained for the entire installation period; for very damp rooms, such as bathrooms, it is better to use moisture-resistant gypsum boards.
If necessary, the walls must be prepared, cleaned of the remnants of the old coating. If the surface is stratified, then measures should be taken to strengthen it. The wall is puttied, it must dry, after which you can proceed with the installation.
After the puttying is completed, the verticality of the walls, the presence of irregularities should be corrected with the help of the building level (the choice of the laying method depends on this). The marking of the location of the plates is applied to the surface. If necessary, the walls are treated with a primer.
GVL plates are cut, holes are cut in them for switches, sockets. The height of each piece should be such that there is a gap of 8-12 mm at the bottom. After mounting large plates, small segments are installed below to bridge the gaps. For safety, the sheets can be screwed to the wall surface with self-tapping screws.
The GVL boards themselves are glued to the wall using special compounds according to the chosen method. This is done with a calibrating notched trowel, after applying the mixture, the sheet is leveled with a mallet. If it is planned to mount any furniture on the wall surface, then the glue must be applied to the entire surface of the GVL.
Apply the adhesive in an even layer, constantly monitor compliance with the same laying level. This is usually done with a stretched thread. Do-it-yourself installation starts from the corner. Gradually, the entire room is glued around the perimeter. For wall cladding made of wood, all sheets are additionally fastened with self-tapping screws or roofing nails with very wide hats.

Related article: How to make an iron door with your own hands: technology

After laying gypsum-fiber sheets on the walls of the room with your own hands, it is necessary to putty all the joints and fastenings with nails so that the surface becomes perfectly flat. When the mixture dries, you can proceed to further finishing.

Frame mounting method

The scheme of fastening drywall to a metal frame.

The use of a frame for fastening is based on the use of metal or wooden profiles. If wooden slats are used, then their cross section for laying on the floor and ceiling should be no less than 30x50 mm, they are attached to the surface with screws, vertical racks should have a cross section of 25x75 mm. The pitch of the racks should be no more than the width of one GVL sheet, 400-405 mm is recommended. GVL sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws in increments of 250 mm (with a width of one plate of 1200-1205 mm). To insulate the space between the racks of the frame with your own hands, you can lay glass wool.

The technology of laying GVL slabs on the wall assumes compliance with the following conditions:

the pitch of the screws should not be less than 250 mm.
the length of the self-tapping screw for fasteners must be at least 30 mm.
all plates are mounted with their own hands, starting from the middle of the room, in a perpendicular direction.
a gap of 5-7 mm is left between adjacent plates, which then needs to be puttied.

Installing a metal frame is not much different from using wooden slats, but is considered more reliable. For this, galvanized metal profiles with a thickness of 0.56-0.6 mm are used. A guide profile, rack, corner, ceiling and ceiling guide is used.

Do-it-yourself assembly is carried out in this way:

First, the surface of the wall must be prepared, remove all remnants of the old coating. As a rule, the advantages of the frame method are that the wall may not be prepared, but many masters advise to putty the surface before attaching the profile.
After that, they proceed to the installation of the frame, a ceiling profile is used as vertical racks, the guide is used for installation on the surface of the ceiling and floor. Before performing work, it is necessary to apply markings on the wall, which will show exactly where to strengthen the profile. This should be done with the help of a building level, a plumb line and a simple pencil.
For fastening, brackets are used, which are fixed to the racks with self-tapping screws, the joining of the guide and rack profiles is carried out by a cutter with a bend. The profile is attached to the ceiling with dowels in increments of 60 cm, but the pitch may be less.
GVL sheets are mounted in a vertical direction, a small gap should be left between them, which must be puttied after installation.

Gypsum fiber sheets are a versatile material, ideal for leveling walls, making partitions and various indoor structures.

Made from natural gypsum and natural cellulose, absolutely environmentally friendly and safe for health.

Breathable sheet structure provides optimal humidity, air exchange and a comfortable microclimate in the premises.

Figure 1. Walls lined with GVL.

TOP 3 best products according to buyers

Types and advantages of GVL

Gypsum fiber sheets are pressed material with a homogeneous structure.

There are two types of gypsum fiber sheets on sale: GVL and GVLV.

For wall cladding and partitioning of living rooms, ordinary gypsum-fiber sheets - GVL are suitable.

Figure 2. GVLKnauf.

In rooms with high humidity, it is necessary to use moisture-resistant sheets - GVLV.

It is possible to use moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheets in bathrooms, unheated and damp basements, garages, industrial and warehouse buildings.

GVL sheets are produced with straight and folded edges.

Sheets with folds are designed for wall cladding, with straight edges are used when installing dry floor screeds.

Standard dimensions of GVL for walls, in millimeters:

length - 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000;
width - 500, 1000, 1200;
GVL thickness - 10, 12, 15, 20;

Gypsum-fiber sheets are much stronger than GKL, due to the reinforcing cellulose fibers present in the mass of the sheet, they have many advantages:

fire-resistant material, does not support combustion;
you can hammer nails and screw screws;
it is well sawn with a hacksaw, grinder with an electric jigsaw, processed with a planer;
not subject to thermal expansion;
reduces labor costs and finishing time;
suitable for any finishing materials;
compatible with all types of adhesives and putties;
are easily mounted on wooden and metal frames, forming a perfectly flat surface.

Disadvantages of GVL:

rigid sheets are not suitable for facing curved structures;
high price;
big weight, in comparison with GKL.

Mounting methods

Gypsum-fiber sheets can be mounted on a frame made of metal profiles or wooden bars, as well as directly on the wall, using putty, mounting foam or special adhesive mixtures.

The metal frame is superior to wood in many technical and operational characteristics:

resistant to external influences, not affected by fungus, mold and pests;
easy to mount;
does not burn;
not subject to deformation;
strong, reliable and durable.

Metal profiles are divided into guides and main ones.

Horizontal guide profiles are marked with the letters PN. This is the basis of the frame, to which the vertical main racks are attached.

The main racks are marked with the letters PS. Gypsum sheets are hung on them.

Figure 3. Rack profile inserted into the guide profile.

A wooden frame is cheaper than a metal one, but has a number of significant disadvantages:

affected by pests and microorganisms:
subject to deformation and shrinkage:
combustible

The frame is needed to insulate and soundproof walls and partitions, with significant unevenness of the walls, to use the space for laying engineering communications under the sheathing.

The frameless method of installing GVL is used if there are minor wall irregularities, up to 50 millimeters.

Installation of GVL on a metal frame

Before the start of work, we clean the floor, walls and ceiling from construction debris, dirt, possible influx of concrete or mortar.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

1.Marking the frame

Before proceeding with the installation of profiles for wall cladding or the installation of partitions made of gypsum-fiber sheets along the frame, it is necessary to perform horizontal and vertical marking of the surfaces of walls and ceilings, with drawing installation lines for profiles and suspension attachment points.

Figure 4. Marking the wall for plasterboard sheathing.

To do this, we use a laser level or a plumb line and a tape measure.

The lines are applied with a chopping cord and a pencil.

The distance from the profile to the wall is determined from the calculation of the thickness of the insulation and the location engineering systems and mark the corners. With the help of a cord and a pencil, we transfer the marks to the floor, marking a horizontal line. Using a plumb line, we transfer the line to the ceiling. According to the obtained parallel lines, we will mount the main horizontal profile.
We determine the installation locations for vertical support profiles based on the width of the sheets and put marks along the perimeter of the premises. We divide the resulting segments into sections of 400 - 600 millimeters, we get the step of installing vertical profiles.
We mark the attachment points of horizontal jumpers and plumb lines by dividing the vertical stripes into segments of about 500 millimeters.

Important!

Marking should be carried out strictly according to the level in order to avoid deformation and cracking after finishing work is completed.

2. Mounting the frame

We fix the upper and lower horizontal profiles to the ceiling with self-tapping screws and dowels, with an interval of about 50 centimeters.

To the walls, according to the established marks, we attach remote brackets for installing vertical racks, in increments of 50 - 100 centimeters.

We cut the rack profiles into segments equal to the distance from the floor to the ceiling. We start the upper and lower ends of the profiles into horizontal profiles.

We fasten the vertical racks with self-tapping screws to the side walls of the horizontal profiles and the legs of the brackets. The protruding parts of the paws are bent or cut off with a grinder.

Figure 5. Installation of a galvanized metal frame.

We tie up the vertical racks with horizontal jumpers at a right angle, using crab connections.

Important!

Attach profiles and suspensions to the wall through an elastic damper sealing tape that dampens vibrations and shock noises, leveling small irregularities in walls and ceilings.

Figure 6. Bonding the sealing tape.

3.Insulation and soundproofing

Between the profiles we lay mineral wool insulation on a synthetic binder. Rigid plates are installed in the spacer, and roll material fasten with dowels of umbrellas or glue.

We cover the insulation from above with a vapor barrier membrane. It will protect the insulation from moisture penetrating through the GKL from the room. In living rooms, you can do without a vapor barrier device.

Figure 7. Warming and insulation of the outer wall.

We glue a vibration-insulating porous tape on the profile.

4. Fastening gypsum-fiber sheets to a metal frame

When buying GVL, consider the height of the premises to avoid transverse joints.

Important!

Prior to installation, the GKL sheets must be held in the conditions where the installation will be carried out for at least four days. So that the material adapts to the humidity and temperature of the room.

You need to start the installation of sheets from a window or door.

We set the GVL strictly according to the level so that the edge of the sheet is located strictly along the center line of the vertical profile. Sheets can only be joined along the profile racks. We fix with self-tapping screws, 25 millimeters long, in increments of 20 centimeters along the perimeter of the sheet.

With a two-layer sheathing, the step of the self-tapping screws for fastening the first sheet can be up to 750 millimeters.

We fasten the following sheets in the same way, making a gap between the sheets of 4-5 millimeters.

To fix the drywall around the window, set the sheet in place and circle the perimeter of the opening from the inside. In this case, the edge of the sheet must be removed from the opening by at least 20 centimeters.

Cut out the opening along the drawn lines and fasten the sheet in place.

When arranging slopes from GKL, we cut out the elements to size and fasten them to the frame.

Important!

When screwing self-tapping screws into the GKL, it is important to sink the caps by 1-2 millimeters. To do this, it is better to install a limiter on the screwdriver.

With multi-layer wall cladding, the sheets of the next layer are shifted relative to the first by at least 400 millimeters in horizontal joints, and by a step of racks in vertical joints.

Figure 8. GVL layout scheme in 2 layers.

To protect the outer corners of the GVL from mechanical damage, we attach metal perforated profiles made of galvanized steel to the corners.

Picture 9. Fixing a galvanized perforated profile.

Internal corners must be puttied with a reinforcing tape bent twice.

After the lining is completed, the joints of the screws, the corners and the seams between the sheets are sealed with putty. To prevent cracking of the putty, pre-glue the seams with reinforcing tape. It is better to use a mesh tape, sickle, with an adhesive composition applied to the back.

When using sickle, glue it on the seams between the sheets, and then apply putty.

Figure 10. Sticking sickle on the seams of the plasterboard.

We glue paper or non-woven tapes to the seams filled with putty. We also apply a thin layer of putty on top of the tape and level it with a spatula.

Figure 11. Reinforcing tape sticker.

We grind the dried putty with fine sandpaper or a special mesh and, if necessary, putty again.

We grind again, remove dust and prime with a penetrating primer.

Wooden wall cladding

You can veneer wooden walls on a metal frame, wooden slats or mounting foam.

Figure 12. Cladding wooden walls GVL on a wooden crate.

Wooden rack - the best way for a wooden house. It slightly reduces the size of the room, compared to a metal frame.

For wooden frame bars are used conifers treated with antiseptics and flame retardants.

For the device of the frame of partitions, a bar with a section of 60x50 millimeters is suitable; for facing walls without insulation, a section of 25x40 is sufficient.

Figure 13. Cladding of wooden walls of GVL on a wooden crate.

The frameless method of wooden walls made of timber is allowed.

Frameless method of fastening GVL

To determine the possibility and option of attaching sheets directly to the wall, without a frame device, you need to check the curvilinearity of the walls using a plumb line and a two-meter rail.

With a curvature of the walls of more than 50 millimeters, fixing the GVL to the glue is not advisable. This method of fastening is not suitable for facing rooms with a height of more than three meters.

Before starting work, we carry out preparatory work:

clean the surfaces of the walls from the old finishing materials, oil pollution, dirt and dust.
we close cracks, voids and recesses with repair compounds;
We impregnate the surface of the walls with a primer twice.

To prevent moisture from entering the sheets and prevent shrinkage deformations, we leave technological gaps at the top and bottom of the wall, placing sheet trimmings or wooden bars.

As an adhesive for GVL, you can use liquid nails, putties, silicone sealants, tile adhesive or any gypsum and cement mixes.

When attaching gypsum-fiber sheets to mounting foam, it is advisable to purchase it with a minimum expansion coefficient, and when sticking the sheets, immediately firmly fix it.

The porous structure of GVL is distinguished by good adhesion and provides reliable adhesion to any binder.

We start the installation of sheets on glue from the corner of the room, pressing the sheets over the entire plane to the wall and controlling their verticality with the help of a rail and a plumb line.

Figure 14. Frameless method of fastening GVL.

Depending on the curvature of the walls, we choose the methods of fastening:

If the unevenness of the walls is more than 20 millimeters, we first fix the leveling strips of GKL or GVL on the walls, at least one hundred millimeters wide, then with a notched trowel, apply glue to the sheets in even continuous strips at the junction with the leveling guides.
With unevenness up to 20 millimeters, we apply glue with molds on the sheet with an interval of 250 - 350 millimeters. At the same time, we apply reference beacons from a solution on the wall, three or four marks in a row, with a distance between rows of up to 600 millimeters.
With absolutely even walls, the adhesive is applied in a thin continuous layer, leveling with a notched trowel.

The choice of cladding method depends on the material of the walls, individual requirements and financial possibilities.

Various fastening methods allow you to achieve an even, solid base for any fine finish. It is important to do the work, strictly observing building codes, rules and installation technology.

2.
3.

When using gypsum-fiber sheets for sheathing partitions and for cladding, the following general recommendations should be followed:

1. Use gypsum-fiber sheets with straight edges; it is not necessary to remove the chamfer before applying the putty layer;

2. To fix gypsum-fiber sheets, special screws are used, which are intended for GVL;

3. During the installation of the sheets, leave gaps that are equal to half the thickness of the gypsum fiber sheet. You can not install sheets close;

4. Puttying work should be carried out using special mix for GVL.

Marking and cutting

Sheets must be marked in accordance with the project, cut with a hacksaw or jigsaw. If the edge resulting from trimming is on the outer corner, then it should be processed with a peeling planer.

Installation of the structure frame

We mark the position of the partition and openings directly on the floor and walls. We use a tape measure, cord breaker. The laser equipment for marking will greatly facilitate the work.

A special sealing tape should be glued to the guide profiles that will be fixed on the floor and ceiling, as well as to the rack profiles near the wall. It allows you to increase the soundproofing properties of the structure.

Guide profiles are attached to the ceiling and to the floor with dowels, the step is no more than a meter. When installing rack profiles in guides, you must observe a step of 60 cm. Watch for the accuracy of the vertical line, use a level and a plumb line. In this case, you do not need to fix profiles. When preparing and cutting rack profiles, take into account the fact that the length of the profile on 10 mm should be less than the height of the room.

If an opening is provided in the partition, then you need to install a horizontal jumper. PS-profile is used as an intermediate rack. The joint of gypsum-fiber sheets should fall on this rack.

If it is necessary to strengthen the support posts of the doorway due to the weight of the door exceeding 30 kg, wooden blocks should be fixed in them. It is allowed to mount an additional rack, which is attached to the main rack through the PS-profile inserts.

Power and low current wiring can be passed through small holes in the rack profiles. It is necessary to take into account the subsequent fastening, which must in no case damage the wires. The casing should have openings provided for by the project, through which the wiring is brought out. If it is necessary to install electrical boxes opposite each other, then they should be offset by one meter.

Installation of gypsum board

To fasten the sheets, we use screws for GVL, the fixing step should be about 25cm. Start fastening the gypsum-fiber sheet in the corner, fasten in two directions, which will be mutually perpendicular. You can fasten from the middle to the edge of the sheet.

Step back from the edge of the gypsum sheet no less 10 mm when installing self-tapping screws for GVL. If the sheathing is made in two layers, then it is possible to fasten the sheets not to the frame, but to the first installed layer of material.

note that the screws should enter the sheet at an angle of 90 degrees. The penetration depth of the screw into the profile flange should be approx. 10 mm. The heads must be sunk into the material for 1 mm.

Leave a gap between sheets 5-7 mm. In the process of work, adjust the position of the racks that fall on the edges and middle of the gypsum fiber sheet. Only after making sure that they are in the correct position, fix them with screws.

O finishing works

The joints of the gypsum-fiber sheet are subject to putty. Using a spatula, the solution is applied flush into the gap formed at the junction. Screws recessed into the material should also be puttied. Let the solution dry, then finish the surface with a putty.

The resulting protrusions and irregularities are removed by grouting. External corners most often subjected to mechanical damage during operation. Therefore, they must be strengthened with a PU profile. Putty is applied to the surface of the corner, into which the profiled profile is pressed. A leveling layer of mortar is applied over the profile.

After grouting the surface, it is necessary to prime the partition with a special compound. Gypsum fiber sheet pre-treated with a reinforcing composition, so the primer is applied only in places where putty is applied.

Only after the primer has completely dried, you can proceed to the subsequent finishing of the partition.

The problem of lack of living space exists in more than seventy percent of modern families. It is quite difficult to solve such an issue by acquiring a new, larger housing. But there is a less expensive way to make an apartment cozy and functional - to divide the space into zones. There are several tricks for this, but we will talk about the most universal one. This article will discuss how to build a drywall partition without much effort.

Material calculation and tool selection

Any repair must begin with the development of estimates and the acquisition of all necessary components. At this stage, it is important to correctly calculate the number of "consumables" and choose a tool. This will help you avoid unexpected expenses and save valuable time.

To begin with, it is worth deciding what type of drywall partition will be built. In any case, a metal frame is required, but the number of skin layers may vary. In addition, the installation uses different types gcl. This depends on the operating conditions. For example, in wet rooms, only a moisture-resistant sheet (green) should be used. One more nuance: HL structures are not made sliding, but it is quite possible to install a door in them.

Calculation necessary materials is shown in table 1.

Table 1 - Components for the construction of plasterboard partitions (the calculation is given for 1 square meter of construction with a single-layer sheathing).

Name	unit of measurement	Consumption
Gcl	sq.m.	2.1
UW Profile	m	0.7
Profile C.W.	m	2
Screw	PCS.	34
Reinforcing tape	m	2.2
dowels	PCS.	1.5
Sealing tape	m	1.2
putty	kg	0.9
Liquid primer	l	0.2
Finishing putty	kg	1.2
Angle profile	m	of necessity

In addition, you can not do without the following set of tools:

laser level;
plumb;
perforator;
tracing cord;
roulettes;
scissors for metal;
hammer (rubber);
screwdriver.

After the purchase is made, you can proceed to the layout and installation.

Assembly of plasterboard partitions

First you need to decide on the location of the future structure. Only then comes the markup. This stage is very important, since the slightest inaccuracies can significantly spoil the final result.

Enough markup in a simple way: Recede from the walls a certain distance and put marks on all adjacent surfaces. After that, the lines are marked with a level, which are connected with a tracing cord.

Now about how to properly install a drywall partition. The installation of the frame begins with the preparation of profiles that need to be cut depending on the height of the wall. Then the guide profiles are fixed to the floor and ceiling and rack-mounted are inserted into them. The pitch is chosen in the range from 0.4 m. Self-tapping screws are used for fastening. To ensure the mechanical strength of the future structure, you can additionally install an angular profile.

The next stage in the construction of partitions from gvl (hl) is sheathing with sheets of material. Drywall is fastened with screws so as to avoid overlapping vertical joints. After finishing the installation of one wall, you can start laying soundproofing slabs.

The last point is the finishing of the partition. It represents a certain sequence of actions: sealing, putty, primer, finishing putty and decorative trim. Inexperienced repairmen can be advised the following:

do all the work with an assistant;
periodically watch video tutorials on installing drywall partitions.

Drywall bending for curved structures

Drywall is a material that is very convenient to use to create figured and openwork partitions. To do this, it will have to be bent using a wet or dry method.

The most common variant is the folding of wetted sheets using a spiked roller. To begin with, a template is cut out of cardboard or paper, which will have the shape of the intended design of part of the partition. Next, the material itself is prepared according to the template. Important: HL should lie down for a couple of days in the room in order to "accept" its humidity and temperature.

The side to be deformed is moistened and pierced with a spiked roller. After that, the material is fixed until it dries completely, and then it is mounted on a specially prepared frame.

Do you want to diversify the interior, but do not know how to assemble a figured plasterboard partition? To do this, you need to cut the guide profiles, bend them along the selected radius and strengthen them. Curved sheets are mounted across the rack profile and attached to the frame. finishing produced according to the same principle as in conventional installation.

After you have mastered the basic principles of working with hl, you can try to complicate the task. For example, almost every resident apartment building faces the problem of accommodating seasonal clothing and footwear. An excellent solution would be the installation of a drywall dressing room. I would like to get some recommendations from those who faced such a task during the repair process.