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Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: installation according to GOST. Installation of plastic windows according to GOST - instructions Standards for installing plastic windows in an apartment

Installing PVC windows in compliance with the rules given in GOST 30971, adopted in 2012, will allow you to significantly extend their service life, avoid glass fogging and protect window openings from moisture. How to install a plastic window according to GOST, and what materials to use for this, you can find out by reading our article.

For high-quality and fast work, you will need the following set of tools:

  • Perforator.
  • Electric jigsaw.
  • Drill driver.
  • Nailer.
  • Sledgehammer.
  • Level.
  • Yardstick.
  • Pencil.
  • "Bulgarian".
  • Silicone gun.
  • Square.
  • Metal scissors.
  • Putty knife.
  • Slick.
  • Rubber mallet.
  • Pliers.
  • Tassel.


Depending on the type of window opening and window model, you may need additional tools not included in the list.

In addition to tools, to install a plastic window, you must have the following consumables:

    • PSUL - pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape. PSUL has a different thickness and width and is intended to hide the outer foam seam.

    • Vapor barrier tapes - needed to hide the foam seam indoors. Ribbons are metallized and fabric-based. Metallized tapes are used for “dry” finishing of a window opening (plastic slopes, drywall or PVC panels). Vapor barrier tape based on fabric, designed for finishing materials water-based (plaster, gypsum, and so on).

    • Diffusion Tape- necessary as a lining under the window eaves. This tape has the feature of passing air, but not letting water through.

    • Window sill pad- This is a tape on a metallized basis, with a layer of insulation, it serves as a heat and vapor barrier.

    • Anchor plates- fasteners for the window, connecting the frame with window opening. Anchor plates allow you to fix the window in the opening without through holes in the frame.

    • Self-tapping screws - fasten the anchor plates to the window.

    • Dowel screws - connect the anchor plates to the window opening.

    • Composition for priming- designed for surface treatment, at the place of gluing vapor barrier tapes.

    • wooden wedges- are needed for intermediate fixing of the window in the opening and setting the level.

    • Stand Profile- fastened from the bottom of the frame and serves as a stand for the window and fastening for the cornice and window sill.

    • Plastic window sill- comes complete with a window, but, if desired, can be replaced with window sills made of other materials.

    • Drain - rarely included in the basic set of plastic windows, usually ordered separately.

  • Polyurethane foam - used to fill the seams and as an additional fastener.

Preparatory work

Dismantling

If you need to dismantle the old window, do the following:

  1. Remove all doors from hinges.
  2. Dismantle the glazing beads and pull out the glass from the fixed sections of the window.
  3. Disconnect the trim, drain and window sill from the frame.
  4. Remove the solution and mounting foam between the frame and the window opening.
  5. Using a grinder, cut off all frame fasteners.
  6. Pull the frame out of the opening.
  7. Remove the remains of mounting foam and mortar at the location of the frame.

Window preparation

Before installing a plastic window in the opening, it is necessary to make a number of preparatory work:

  1. Remove the window sashes from the hinges by knocking out the canopy rods with a hammer and screwdriver.
  2. Remove the double-glazed windows from the fixed sections of the window. To do this, you need to knock out the glazing beads from the mounting grooves, this can be done with a rubber mallet and a wide chisel, or a spatula.
  3. Attach the support profile to the bottom rail of the frame. When connecting the profile and frame, use PSUL as a gasket between them.
  4. Install anchor tape around the perimeter of the window. Tapes are screwed to the frame and support profile with screws. For ease of installation, bring the ends of the anchor tapes inside the room. Depending on the size of the window, from 2 to 4 fasteners are installed on each side of the frame.
  5. Glue the PSUL on the top and side posts of the frame so that the tape protects the outer seam after filling it with mounting foam.
  6. Stick the diffusion tape on the support profile on the outside of the window.
  7. To protect the inside of the seams, glue vapor barrier tape to the frame.

Installation of a window in the opening

After all the preparatory work, install the frame in the window opening:

  1. Secure the frame to the opening with wedges.
  2. Check the correct horizontal and vertical position of the frame with a level.
  3. Having set the frame in the correct position, through the holes in the anchor strips, mark the places for the dowel-screws.
  4. Having drilled holes with a puncher, fix the frame in the window opening on the anchor tapes.
  5. Using a brush and a primer, treat the places where vapor barrier tapes and PSULs are glued.
  6. Fill the space between the frame and the window opening with low expansion foam.
  7. After the foam dries, cut off the excess.
  8. Glue PSUL and vapor barrier tape to the window opening.

Installation of drain and window sill

  1. Straighten the diffusion tape and place the drain on it.
  2. Attach the drain to the pedestal profile using self-tapping screws.
  3. Cut the window sill in the shape of the slopes of the window opening.
  4. In the place where the window sill will be located, lay the metallized tape with insulation.
  5. Insert the window sill into the base profile and fix it with screws.
  6. Seal the gaps between the frame, drain and window sill with silicone sealant.

Final works

  1. Insert double-glazed windows into the window sections, securing them with glazing beads.
  2. Install the sashes in their places.
  3. Check the operation of the window handles and mechanisms.

The plastic window is installed, it remains to finish the slopes of the opening and then remove the protective film.

Look detailed instructions for installing a plastic window using GOST standards, you can also in the video:

In addition to the cost of a plastic window, intermediary companies also include installation and delivery services in the final amount. In order not to spend thousands of rubles and save money, you can install a plastic window yourself. In that step by step master class we will teach you how to properly dismantle the old window and prepare a new one for installation, taking into account the installation technology in accordance with GOST.

Step #1: Dismantling the old window

In our case, we dismantle the plastic window. The old wooden window is removed from the opening in the same way, so there should be no problems at this stage. For dismantling, we need the following set of tools: a hacksaw, a crowbar or a crowbar, a chisel, a spatula, a nail puller, a puncher, a screwdriver (a Phillips screwdriver).

First, we remove the slopes. If they are assembled from PVC panels, clean the seams of sealant or glue. Take a chisel or flathead screwdriver and remove the decorative panels. If the slopes are plastered, use a chisel and a hammer to remove a layer of plaster. Remove the sashes from the hinges. In plastic windows, remove the decorative top trim, press the stem with pliers. From the bottom hinge we remove only the overlay, lift the sash up.

With wooden windows it is more difficult. Often the hinges are painted over with paint or completely rusted, then we knock out the stem manually with a hammer or tear off the sash from the frame with a crowbar, crowbar.

We remove the glass. We take a spatula, insert it end-to-end with a glazing bead, which fixes the position of the double-glazed window, hook it up and remove it. We remove all 4 glazing beads that hold the double-glazed window. Remove the top bead last. We take out the glass, not forgetting to wear thick gloves so as not to get hurt. To safely remove the glass from the frame, you can use special suction cups.

We pass to the windowsill. We remove the old concrete window sill with a hammer and a puncher. Our window sill is plastic. Since it is in good condition, we carefully remove it and peel off the old layer of foam. With one easy pull up, it is easily dismantled. We remove the ebb, unscrew the fixing screws with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

We take a hacksaw and cut the old layer of mounting foam around the entire perimeter of the window with a tool. Remove fasteners. We unscrew or pull out the anchor plates or self-tapping screws for concrete with a nail puller.

After all the stages of dismantling, the frame remains in the opening. Carefully take it out, preferably with a partner. wooden frame it is more convenient to remove it in parts, first sawing the impost (frame divider), the lower part, and then removing the sidewalls and the upper crossbar.

Step 2: Attaching the New Window Frame to the Opening

Before starting work, we remove dust, debris, pieces of concrete on slopes, large nails. For better adhesion of the mounting foam to the base, we cover it with a primer over the entire width. We insert the frame into the window opening and try it on, having previously removed the sashes and double-glazed windows.

We put support pads under the corners and impost connections of the lower profile of the frame. We make sure that on both sides the frame goes beyond a quarter of the window opening. We use mounting wedges, not pieces of wood or an old window frame. The gaps between the frame and the slopes should be about 2 cm on the sides and bottom and at least 1 cm on top to fill the space with mounting foam.

We check possible deviations horizontally and vertically by the level.

If you install a metal-plastic window in accordance with GOST, we recommend sticking PSUL tape around the outer perimeter of the frame. It will protect the mounting seams from ultraviolet radiation, moisture penetration, the formation of fungus and mold, and will create reliable sound insulation. On the butt on the inside of the frame (on the sides and top), we glue a double-sided vapor barrier tape. It removes excess moisture to the outside and does not allow it to penetrate from the outside, provides good ventilation. The adhesive tape must be wider than the overlap joint.

We drill holes in the frame and wall for pins. We retreat from the corners of the frame in each direction by 15–18 cm and check the deviations in level. It's hard to do everything yourself. Therefore, one person works as a puncher, and the second holds the level. The distance between fasteners on the frame should not exceed 70 cm.

On the lower part of the frame, we retreat 12-18 cm from the dividers (imposts) on each side and make holes for the dowels. We do similar actions in the upper part of the frame.

We insert dowels into the holes, tighten them first, not completely. We check the structure again by level and finally fix the fasteners. We put decorative caps-stubs on the hats.

Step 3: Exterior Waterproofing and Foaming the Joints

For waterproofing the external mounting seam, we lay a vapor-permeable tape under the ebb. It will protect the seam from moisture and provide the necessary ventilation.

We lay the tape along the entire length of the window opening. Remove the bottom base and attach it with the adhesive side to the base. We fix the drainage. In our case, we use old pattern with customized sizes. When installing a new ebb, we measure the distance between the quarters. According to the measurements made, we cut off the desired length of the ebb. We retreat 2 cm on each side and cut off the edge. We insert the ebb into the groove and fix it with self-tapping screws on the stand profile, having drilled 3-5 holes for fixing.

Thus, the insulation must be somehow protected from the penetration of direct moisture or water vapor into it, and for moisture that has nevertheless got into the insulation, it must be possible to evaporate outwards so that the installation seam does not threaten any of the described problems. For this, special vapor barrier and waterproof vapor-permeable materials have been created, which we produce. The first are installed from inside the room and prevent the penetration of moisture contained in room air inside the mounting seam, that is, to the insulation. The second is installed outside. These materials protect the insulation from the penetration of direct moisture (water) from the street. And also, which is very important, being vapor-permeable, they ventilate inner part mounting seam, allowing it to breathe. Thus, condensed water is removed from the seam, or water vapor that got there from inside the wall - (from its condensate plane). Stagnant processes inside the insulation are eliminated, figuratively speaking, it "breathes out". Such a mechanism of action of special materials to protect the main element of the assembly seam - insulation from the harmful effects of moisture.

However, moisture is not all that the insulation and the whole mounting seam entirely. Let us dwell on two factors that have the most critical effect after humidity.

In second place is ultraviolet solar radiation. This radiation destroys the insulation (polyurethane foam, used in almost 100% of window installations) in a very short period of time. So, in the southern regions of Russia, the process of almost complete destruction of mounting foam can occur in a couple of months. In the middle lane, it will take a year - one and a half, depending on the direction of the world, where the window structure is facing.

Conclusion - the insulation must be protected from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation. The task is successfully solved by the same vapor-permeable waterproofing tape, which protects the insulation from direct exposure to water from the street.

In third place is the linear expansion (movement) of the window structure due to temperature fluctuations (thermal expansion). And such shifts are significant and can reach from 5 to 10, and in some cases even 15 percent of the width of the assembly seam itself! At the same time, the insulation does not suffer, since it is well resistant to deformation loads and, in addition, is glued to the wall and window frame. It is clear that the means of its protection must also be resistant to such colossal deformations.

Imagine if you apply a plaster mortar or a solid sealant - at what point will it collapse, or come off from the smooth plane of the plastic window frame? (GOST allows the use of certain types of acrylic sealants to protect the outer contour. These must be elastic (not completely drying), vapor-permeable materials with good adhesive properties). Here again, the same vapor-permeable waterproofing tape successfully solves the problem, since it is not afraid of shifts of 15 or even 30 percent.

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to completely free the window opening and the space next to it:

  • remove everything from the windowsill,
  • take down the curtains
  • free the approach to the window by moving the furniture at least 1.5 meters from the window.

Protect the room from dust and dirt by covering the floor and furniture with cloth or thick oilcloth.

For ease of installation, connect the 220V power supply through an extension cord, prepare garbage bags.

Dismantling the old frame

After the room is ready for the appearance of dust and debris, they begin to dismantle the old window frame.

The shutters are removed from the window. Remove window frames. If necessary, dismantle (knock down) slopes.

The old window frame is dismantled, and, as a rule, it is seriously damaged. If you wish to use old windows, for example in a country house, you should specify the option of keeping the old windows when ordering.

The old ebb, the old window sill is being dismantled.

PVC window installation

The sashes are removed from the plastic window, the double-glazed window is removed. A window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed to anchor bolts or mounting plates. At the same time, it should be strictly observed that the frame should be level, and not along the opening (in houses there are often cases when the horizon line of the window opening is far from ideal, the frame should also be set vertically to the level). Otherwise, the window will not function properly.

The gaps between the wall and the frame are foamed with mounting foam. The foam performs both an insulating function and is a fastener. The overall result largely depends on the quality of this stage of installation. The foam must be applied evenly and fill all the recesses and cavities of the opening, and it is necessary to take into account the degree of expansion of the foam.

Installing a plastic window in most cases implies that a new window sill and a new ebb will be installed along with the new window. An exception is the case when in an apartment (house, room) repair work and the window sill can be installed by yourself.

If the mounted window opens onto a balcony (as in this case), then it is quite expedient and functional to install a window sill instead of a low tide (on the outside of the window).

If you have a good old tide, then you can save it for a new window, but in this case it will require restoration (restoration) - a paid service, the cost of which differs slightly from the cost of a new tide.

The window sill is cut out under the opening and attached to the window (to the stand profile). If the opening under the window sill is small, then it foams. Otherwise, laying or sealing the opening with mortar is necessary. When installing a window sill (window sill), it is controlled that it has a slope from the window within 5 degrees, and the overhang beyond the inner surface of the wall is not more than 60 mm.

When installing a window sill, it should be taken into account that its edges go beyond the finishing of the inner slope to a depth of at least 15-20 mm.


Advice: when choosing the width (depth) of the window sill, it should be taken into account that the window sill is "sunk" under the window frame by 2 cm, so the width of the installed window sill will be 2 cm less)

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam, and when it dries, they are isolated. The outer layer of insulation is designed to protect the insulation layer (which is the foam layer) from the penetration of moisture into it, as well as from the damaging effects of the sun.

So, the main part of the work is finished. However, for finishing the opening lacks slopes (which are both a decorative addition under which you can hide the mounting foam, and a functional element - increasing the thermal insulation and sound insulation of the window opening). Plastic slopes will give the window a finished look, besides, this is the best combination with plastic windows.

Installation of plastic slopes

Plastic slopes are installed on the same day with a window for panel and block houses and on the second day for Stalinist houses.

As slopes, either a Belgian sandwich panel (in the image) or German VEKA plastic slopes with removable casings is used.

The differences between the various plastic slopes are not significant, but you should be aware of them.

The Belgian sandwich panel can be installed at dawn (not at right angles to the window), which visually enlarges the window opening. Choice plastic slopes VEKA is justified for more accurate wallpapering with already installed slopes. Thanks to the removable casing, the edges of the wallpaper will be neatly hidden under it.

Advice: if you have a repair in your apartment, then it is better to install the architraves on the slopes from the Belgian sandwich panel after gluing the wallpaper yourself - it will turn out neater and prettier).

Installing window accessories

At the final stage, a double-glazed window is installed in the window frame and the sashes are hung. Installation in progress additional accessories, fastening additional elements fittings and components, such as: stage ventilator, clamp, mosquito net, blinds, etc.

The window is ready. Upon completion of all work, an act of acceptance and delivery of work is signed. In it, if necessary, the customer indicates his comments on the work performed, if any.

Almost immediately after completing all the work, the PVC window can be used. The exception is windows with large opening sashes, which are not recommended to be opened within 24 hours after installing the PVC window.

Plastic window functionality is much better than the old ones wooden windows. If follow simple instructions for its care and operation, it will serve you forever.

Do not forget to remove the protective film from the outside of the PVC window!

According to GOST 30674 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles":
The removal of the protective film from the front surfaces of the profiles should be carried out after the installation of the products and the finishing of the mounting opening, taking into account that the duration of exposure to sunlight on the protective film should not exceed ten days.

If repairs are still underway in the room where the windows were installed, the protective film may remain on the product until they are completed. However, from the outside, the film should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 10 days.

The adhesive base of the protective film loses its properties when exposed to heat and UV and can spoil the aesthetic appearance of the plastic profile.

General requirements for installation according to GOST

GOST 30971-2002 “Mounting seams for adjoining window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions” was put into effect by the order of the State Construction Committee of the Russian Federation from 01.03.2003.

Due to the need to adjust the project documentation for design and construction organizations, the transition period for the development of GOST is set until 01.07.2003. The republics of Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova and Uzbekistan joined the Russian norms.

What's new? The new norms bring a significant formalization of window installation and require numerous documents. Among them, it should be noted the need for each installation company to have “Windows installation instructions” approved by local authorities, the need to develop window installation assemblies for each facility under construction and coordinate the assemblies with the customer, it is recommended to analyze thermal fields, and it is also provided for the execution of delivery certificates - acceptance of window openings before installation, acts of hidden work and acts of acceptance of the completed installation of windows.

Of particular interest in the norms are the Applications:

  • Annex A (recommended) is drawings with examples of window installation;
  • Annex B (recommended) puts forward requirements for fastening windows in openings;
  • Annex B (mandatory) represents the actual requirements for the installation of windows as a whole and, in fact, is the main working document;
  • Annex D (recommended) describes the requirements for the method for calculating thermal fields (analysis of isotherms).

In general, Russian installation standards bring us closer to the standards adopted in Europe, and, in particular, in Germany.

GOST requires a large number of formalities from window companies and has more requirements for testing joint designs and materials used for them.

Formalization is justified by the fight against Russian negligence.

Testing of materials and seams as a whole is justified by the fact that until now in Russia there were no detailed standards for installation at all, there is no accumulated scientific experience in determining the properties of installation materials and the quality of seams. Of course, there is no need for the consumer to know all the provisions of this GOST, this is the responsibility of professionals.

Without delving into the subtleties, we can talk about three basic principles for installing windows, which you need to pay close attention to.

Three layers of seam seal

The content of the main part of the norms is devoted to the rules for filling the mounting gap between window blocks and openings according to the principle “tighter from the inside than from the outside”. Each mounting unit must have three layers of sealing: outside - protection from climatic influences, in the middle - insulation, inside - vapor barrier. Can be used different materials for the outer layers and different mounting foams, but, in one version or another, these three termination planes must be present.

outer layer It is designed to protect the insulation layer from the penetration of moisture into it, and must have vapor permeability so that there is ventilation of the insulation through it. That is, the outer layer must be waterproof and vapor-permeable.


These requirements are due to the fact that when moisture penetrates into the insulation, its thermal insulation qualities fall. In the best way modern requirements for the outer layer correspond to PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tapes). These are special mounting tapes that are glued to the window frame before it is installed in the opening, and then, expanding, they fill all the gaps in the quarter in the opening.

With serious advantages: optimal building physics and technological simplicity, they also have disadvantages. It is convenient to use these tapes in new construction, when the opening has a good geometry. But when replacing windows in old houses, when the slopes are uneven, and even more so, plaster, their use is difficult. Another drawback is that plaster does not fall on PSUL.

AT limited form silicone can be used outside. In this case, certain rules should be observed: the thickness of the silicone layer should be half the width of the joint being filled, and the silicone should be glued only on both sides and work in tension, the rest of its sides should remain free.

Sealant can be used when insulating a mounting seam. Although it is not clearly spelled out in GOST, there is also no ban on its use, no matter how much supporters of mounting tapes would like. An example of the use of silicone outside and inside the room is shown on node A.14 in GOST 30971-2002. It is unacceptable, of course, as you can sometimes observe on objects, just anointing with silicone over the foam - this is an imitation of the protection of the seam, but not the protection itself.

Central layer- heat-insulating. Currently, polyurethane foams are used for its execution. It is best to use foams designed specifically for installing windows. Such foams evenly fill the seam and do not need to be trimmed after hardening. Other foams, after installation, hang in shreds from the side of the room, and they are cut off, breaking the protective outer crust.

The inner layer- vapor barrier. Its function is to protect the insulation (foam) from the penetration of moisture vapor into it from the side of the room. For these purposes, when plastering slopes, vapor barrier tapes are used, mainly based on butyl, as well as paint vapor barriers for moisture-resistant drywall. It is possible to use silicone according to the rules mentioned above.

No cold bridges

A mounting seam is a node where wall and window structures are docked, which have a completely various properties, including in terms of heat engineering. And it is important to execute the nodes in such a way that there are no cold bridges on the window slopes.

Basically, the problem of cold bridges is the problem of single-layer wall structures that were used in houses of the past (solid brick, expanded clay concrete, etc.). In this case, the weak zone is the wall itself around the window frame due to its low resistance to heat transfer. An area with a surface temperature below the dew point appears on the slope. In this area, firstly, high heat losses occur, and secondly, condensate falls on it. If moisture condensation on the slope occurs frequently, then fungus (mold) may subsequently form in these places. The same applies to openings without quarters. In their absence, the danger of cold bridges seriously increases, and here one should carefully consider the heat engineering of the junction points.

An important recommendation - in the absence of quarters, use window frames with a minimum width of 130 mm. With a narrow window frame, high-quality sealing of the seam is difficult and there is a high probability of cold bridges. The options given in GOST with false quarters from the corners or from the platband are possible only if there is external plaster, and still remain problematic from the point of view of heat engineering.

If there is an effective insulation in the wall ( mineral wool or non-combustible polystyrene foam) the window should either be in the plane of the insulation, or behind a quarter of the insulation. In walls where aerated concrete is combined with external cladding and brick quarters, as a rule, cold bridges also do not occur due to the good thermal properties of aerated concrete.

Fastening the window block in the opening

The specificity of plastic windows is that they have significant thermal linear expansion. That is, when windows are heated by sunlight, the bars of the box and sashes increase in size. As calculated values ​​of thermal expansion for windows white color 1.5 mm per 1 linear meter should be used, for colored windows - 2.5 mm per 1 running meter (the difference in thermal expansion is due to the fact that white window profiles heat up much less than colored ones).

In accordance with this factor, the window is fastened to the wall. corners plastic windows must remain free, the extreme fasteners are placed at a distance of 150 mm from internal corners ram. The remaining fasteners are placed around the entire perimeter with a pitch for white profiles of no more than 70 cm, for colored profiles no more than 60 cm. Fasteners are also placed near imposts at a distance of 150 mm from the corner. The gap between the box and the wall must be at least 15 mm. This is due both to the thermal expansion of the windows and to the fact that it is very difficult to evenly fill a thinner seam with foam insulation.


Bearing pads are placed under the lower corners of the box and under the imposts. The blocks are also placed from the sides as follows: if you look at the window from the inside, then with one rotary sash, the blocks are placed on the opposite side of the hinges at the top and on the same side as the hinges below. With two wings, four blocks are placed, respectively.

Schematic diagrams of the junctions of window frames to the walls


1 - window sill;
2 - foam insulation;
3 - vapor barrier tape;
4 - flexible anchor plate;
5 - support block under the window sill;
6 - plaster mortar;
7 - dowel with a locking screw;
8 - an insert made of antiseptic lumber or a leveling layer of plaster mortar(recommended only for the lower node);
9 - waterproof vapor-permeable tape;
10 - noise-absorbing gasket;
11 - drain;
12 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL);
13 - sealant with a thin layer



1 - foam insulation;
2 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL) or vapor-permeable mastic;
3 - frame dowel;
4 - sealant;
5 - vapor barrier tape;
6 - panel for finishing the inner slope;
7 - plaster leveling layer of the inner slope.

Thermal gaps must be taken into account especially carefully when designing large-sized glazing elements: when making bay windows, shop windows, glazing for the entire floor height. These are the three basic principles when installing modern windows, although, of course, there are many nuances and subtleties that depend on the various wall designs and on the materials used to seal the seam. And - as we said at the beginning of the article - the human factor is very important - the responsible and high-quality work of the installers.

When can windows be installed?

With the entry into force of Moscow law No. 42 "On silence", disturbing the peace of neighbors is an administrative violation. Carefully read our noisy work instructions in order to comply with the requirements in force in Moscow and the Moscow region in various buildings.

How much does it cost to install windows according to GOST

The cost consists of two components: the cost of work (hours) and materials.

The mounting seam will comply with GOST for the installation of windows, using both expensive and economical materials. The use of one or another will affect the phasing (duration) of work and the final cost of installing windows.

Video instruction for the installation of plastic windows

By investing a lot of money in the installation of plastic windows, people expect to seriously increase the comfort level of their apartment. carefully study the lineup, compare the advantages of profiles used in various designs. But all the advantages of PVC windows can be crossed out by mistakes made during their installation. Most of the claims against companies that install PVC windows are made specifically to the quality of the work of the installers. Plastic windows will last a long time and will not lose their qualities if the installers are guided during installation on GOST, and not on purely personal considerations.

What document regulates the process of installing plastic windows?

In March 2003, GOST 30971–2002 was developed and adopted, which ensured the formalization of installation work. The adoption of this document was facilitated by the state program to increase energy efficiency and energy saving.

But not all companies in their work are guided by the provisions of this document. The high requirements imposed by GOST 30971–2002 increase the costs of firms operating in the PVC window market. Therefore, small companies often ignore its provisions, saving on the quality of services provided. This is facilitated by the low professional level of employees of such enterprises.

To the average layman, familiarity with this document will bring tangible benefits. Knowing the rules for installing PVC windows, he will be able to control the entire installation process, and after its completion he will be able to receive detailed technical documentation on the work performed and full warranty service.

What documents are issued during installation?

The owner of new PVC windows should have two documents on hand, one of them - before installation, the other - after the completion of work on replacing window blocks.

  1. A contract is drawn up in advance, which must contain the necessary calculations for thermophysical properties window installed in a specific wall opening. Based on them, the best installation scheme is selected, which is agreed with the customer.
  2. After the installation of plastic windows is completed, the technical passport of the installation with the installation scheme is handed over to the customer. It should also list the materials used to seal the field joints and the contractor's warranty obligations.

Room preparation

The process of replacing window blocks is accompanied by the release a large number dust. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to free the room as much as possible from furniture and household appliances. What cannot be taken out, as well as the walls and floor, must be covered with film or newspapers to prevent contamination.

Tip: you can use an old bedspread as a kind of screen by pulling it wet at a distance of two to three meters from the window opening. It will take on a significant proportion of the dust, and later it can simply be thrown away.

Preparation of window openings

Before installing plastic windows, it is necessary to remove the old frames from the wall opening. To do this, installers use a puncher, an electric jigsaw and a crowbar. GOST 30971–2002 requires the contractor to pre-prepare openings for window blocks: fully clean the surface and eliminate existing defects. Also, GOST requires the presence of false quarters at the openings into which plastic windows are installed. They are necessary for the formation of a three-layer assembly seam.

Reference: quarters are protrusions designed to protect the seams from external adverse effects. In their absence, so-called false quarters are created, usually made from metal or plastic corners.

Three layers of mounting seam when installing PVC windows

Regardless of the materials chosen by the installers of plastic window units, the rule is that any installation seam must contain three layers.

  • The outer layer must protect the rest of the joint materials from moisture. At the same time, it must allow air to pass through to ventilate the insulation. In most cases, pre-compressed sealing tapes (PSUL) are used to form this layer. Before mounting the window frame in the opening, it is pasted over with these tapes. In the future, they expand and close all the gaps between the box and the wall opening. PSUL are ideal for installation work in new houses where the geometry of the wall openings is not broken. But if the slopes are uneven or plastered, then certain problems may arise when using such a protective material. According to GOST 30971–2002, when installing PVC window blocks, it is allowed to use different kinds sealants such as silicone.

Important! The sealant must not be applied directly to the mounting foam and must cover only two sides of the joint.

  • The middle layer provides thermal insulation. To fill it, polyurethane foam is used, which is selected based on the climate of the area. It is necessary to fill the seam with it in such a way that later you do not have to cut off the excess from the side of the street: such manipulations make it easier for moisture to enter this layer. If there is a need to apply several layers of foam, then the time interval between the formation of each of them should be maintained in accordance with the rules defined by GOST.
  • The inner layer protects the insulation from moisture from the room. It consists of vapor barrier tapes. Should be monitored correct calculation overlap of such a tape, which should be at least half the width of the material. Wrinkling should also be avoided when laying the tape. Most often, installers use tape with a protective coating applied on the inside, but if window openings are plastered, then it is better to choose tape with an external coating.

How should the window block be attached

When installing the window block, it is necessary to ensure a sufficient gap between the window profile and the wall opening. The gap will not only allow you to perform all work on filling the seams with high quality, but also compensates for possible changes in the geometry of the window caused by temperature fluctuations.

There are rules for the location of fasteners:

  • for white PVC window boxes, the maximum distance between them is no more than 700 mm;
  • if the window box is colored, then this distance is reduced to 600 mm;
  • fastening elements must be located at a distance of at least 150 mm from corners and joints;
  • wooden blocks used for pre-fixing the window must be pre-treated with antiseptic materials, their height must be at least 20 mm;
  • in most cases, window frames are fastened with dowels and anchors, which are driven into the wall to a depth of 40 mm.

Important! All fasteners must have an anti-corrosion coating, usually stainless or chrome steel.

What else should the contractor do after installing the window

Not knowing the GOST standards, many customers believe that the contractor's duties end after the installation of the window block is completed. And companies that install PVC windows take advantage of this, making their work easier. In fact, the contractor is required to additionally perform the following actions:

  • Check the operation of the window sashes, if necessary, adjust them and eliminate possible distortions.
  • Check the operation of all fittings installed on the window.
  • Remove protective film.
  • Collect and take out the debris generated during the removal of old window frames and the installation of a plastic window block.

The importance of proper window installation

Proper installation of a plastic window will avoid the typical problems that arise from improper installation. These include:

  • Insufficient thermal insulation of the structure, the formation of so-called cold bridges.
  • The appearance of mold and fungus due to poor waterproofing or insufficient vapor permeability of the installation seam.
  • The appearance of distortions of the sashes or the window box, caused by an insufficient thermal gap or improper placement of fasteners.

Subject to all the rules prescribed in GOST, a plastic window can last up to 20 years and still not lose its characteristics.