How to lay a parquet board on a concrete floor. Do-it-yourself parquet laying: base preparation rules and work technology Laying parquet boards on a concrete floor

10.04.2020

No matter how hard the developers of innovative floor coverings to improve the material, the eye of a reasonable owner of a residential property invariably turns to parquet and massive classics. Despite the enormous number of advanced achievements in this area, the question of how competent parquet installation is done by hand is still relevant. After all, home craftsmen who are trying to lay an amazing patterned floor from wooden planks have not yet died out, and it is unlikely that they will.

The main secrets of laying parquet

Parquet flooring is a complex structure consisting of one or more underlying layers and a top covering made of wooden planks. Dies are also called planks, parquets or rivets. Represented by wooden elements of predominantly rectangular configuration in plan, front and profile. Along the perimeter, the plates are equipped with grooves and ridges for fastening.

The visible component of the parquet floor

The width of the staves is usually a multiple of the length, which makes it easy to create a variety of geometric ornaments. Parquet width standards are 5-7.5 cm, lengths are 21-49 cm according to GOST, numbered 862.1-85. The values of the thickness indicated in the data sheets start from 14 mm and end at 22 mm.

Note. Optimum thickness parquet floor for the arrangement of residential premises is considered 15-18 mm. For thinner strips, the working layer is quickly erased, especially if scraping is often carried out. Thick parquets are not elastic.

The material for parquet flooring can be supplied not only in the form of rectangular planks. On sale there are ready-made shields with parquet floor fragments assembled on a coniferous base and modules fastened on top according to the principle of ceramic mosaic with cardboard or paper.

Base hidden from view

Number and specifications underlying elements depend on the type and condition of the draft base, which most often appear as:

concrete floors: prefabricated or monolithic floors with or without a screed;
wooden beams with lags installed for laying flooring;
plank floor, the floorboards of which, after repair and polishing, serve as a rough base.

According to the instructions of SNiP number 3.04.01-87, it is allowed to lay riveting or finished parquet boards on a prepared base. Within 2 meters of the completed preparation, height deviations of no more than 2 mm can be recorded. Those. when installing a 2-meter rail on the subfloor in an arbitrary vector direction max, the clearance between this control device and the surface can be only 2 mm, preferably less. The slope is acceptable, but its size is limited by the same reference book: max 0.2%, not exceeding 5 cm.

The primary goal of an independent parquet floorer is to form a rough base that meets technical requirements. The number and type of upcoming operations determines the material from which the rough base is made and the degree of wear.

Tasks of using moisture resistant plywood

The second stage, the result of which is to be admired and brag about, is the piece-by-piece laying of the elements on the prepared base. Top coat preparation according to the overwhelming majority technological schemes is a moisture-resistant plywood underlay, because it:

serves as a reliable module for fixing small-caliber parquet floor rivets;
compensates for the difference in thermal expansion of the concrete base and the wood coating;
eliminates suction from the ceiling and from the subfloor of moisture that can render expensive natural material unusable;
performs the function of a cutting element in the case of a floating floor device;
plays the role of a leveling layer.

If it is possible or necessary to reduce the height of the ceilings by 5 cm or more, you can simply purchase sets of adjustable floors with the Knauf brand and prepare both for concrete and wood in one day. The products of the same manufacturer should be used if expanded clay as a heater is to be carried out over a cold basement.

So, we found out that plywood should be used. There are plenty of ways to level it. Let's forget for a while about the existence of factory kits for dry screed and analyze budget options training, the implementation of which will require inexpensive building materials and own forces.

Three preparation options

The quality of the leveling carried out before the installation of the parquet floor affects the number of finishing operations and the duration of the coating. Those who wish to lay the parquet securely and aesthetically with their own hands should be aware that due to defects in the base:

loosen, crack and after a very short period of time the ridges of the parquet will break;
the floor will creak unmercifully;
you will have to carry out additional grinding, thinning the working layer of the material. As a result, the number of scraping-grindings required for the subsequent restoration of the parquet floor is reduced.

In order to avoid such unsightly consequences, let's consider how the three types of bases for parquet are leveled.

Conditions and schemes for pouring the screed

The screed is poured mainly to eliminate defects in concrete floors:

Level differences and defects within 1-2 cm are removed by grinding the concrete floor, followed by pouring either cement-sand or polymer leveling mortar. Before the screed device, the base is primed twice with a penetrating compound. A two-component polyurethane primer will stabilize and strengthen the top layers of the subfloor and will perform the function of waterproofing.
For flaws greater than 2 cm, it will be necessary to refill the leveling layer with the laying of polyethylene as a waterproofing and a cut-off layer. From polyethylene strips, you need to build a kind of pallet with 10 cm sides. Because layer thickness is usually 3-4 cm, mainly sand-cement mixtures with reinforcement are used for leveling. It is more economical and convenient to reinforce with polypropylene fiber, but it is also possible with a mesh.

The layer of cement-sand leveling under the parquet should harden for at least 4 weeks. According to rounded folk calculations, 1 week is allotted for curing 1 cm of the screed. At the end of the specified period, laying should also not be in a hurry if the fastening of the dies is planned to be carried out directly to the leveling layer. You need to wait more than 5-6, even better 7 weeks, until moisture stops escaping from the screed.

Attention. If it is planned to glue the parquet directly to the primed screed, cement mixtures with M150-300 grades must be used to fill it. They are characterized by high compressive strength. Glue for parquet flooring will need elastic.

It is not necessary to wait for complete hardening if moisture resistant plywood. 28 days are enough, and it can be fixed with screws or dowel-nails to a leveled floor. For this, plywood sheets are cut into 4 parts and laid with a run-up according to the principle brickwork. Cut to minimize expansion and eliminate undulations. Between the quartered segments leave gaps of 2-3 mm for linear compression-expansion. The hats of the hardware are sunk 3-5 mm into the plywood so as not to damage the grinding machine disc later.

Attention. If, in addition to self-tapping screws, glue is also used to fix plywood sheets to the screed, it is recommended to purchase it with the same brand and properties as the primer in order to optimize adhesion.

When using glue, the process of laying parquet on a plywood substrate will need to be postponed. You will have to wait for the curing period specified by the manufacturer of the binder. After that, the plywood preparation is sanded along the seams in order to remove the height differences of adjacent sheets, as well as dirt and factory flaws.

Between the walls and the plywood layer around the perimeter, you need to leave a technological gap of 0.9 - 1.2 cm. It is formed using spacer wedges. Spacers are not removed until the parquet flooring is completely laid. Only upon completion of laying they need to be pulled out, the gap created by the wedges should be filled mounting foam so that moisture does not get on the side faces in the future. From above, the foamed seam is closed with a plinth.

Attention. The plinth is attached only to the walls, its slats do not fit tightly with the parquet. There must be at least 1 mm between the parquet flooring and the plinth.

Lags as a way of leveling

It is also a dry screed method, which allows not to stretch the floor construction process for many months due to long technological breaks. For the construction, a beam with sides of 4 and 5 cm is used. Work is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Lags are installed after 30 cm, fastened with screws or corners to a concrete or wooden draft base. Between the ends of the beam and the walls, you need to leave a traditional gap for linear expansion.
It is leveled in a horizontal plane by adding sand, if the rough base is made of concrete, by lining wedges, roofing felt or parchment inserts, if the base is made of wood. The excess is cut off with a planer.
In plywood cut into 4 equal parts, 9 holes are baited in advance, through which they are fastened to the logs with self-tapping screws. The principle of brick laying is observed by default, as is the deformation indent around the perimeter. No cross connections are allowed.
By analogy, a second layer of plywood substrate is constructed. Only quartered sheets are stacked with an offset so that the seams of the first row do not coincide with the seams of the second. The first layer of plywood is treated with a primer, then with glue. Then self-tapping screws are twisted, the size of which depends on the total thickness of the plywood layer.
After the glue dries, sanding is performed.

The plywood substrate is laid on the logs in two layers, the total height of which should be approximately equal to 30 mm. The thickness of the plywood laid on the screed is determined by the thickness of the parquet. Usually it is less than the equivalent parquet size by 5 mm.

Plank floor preparation

It consists in the repair and grinding of floorboards, if their thickness after processing with a grinding unit does not become less than 30 mm. Otherwise, the boards will have to be dismantled and laid new material, on top of which the parquet strips will be attached.

If the board simply replaces the first layer of plywood, its thickness in total with the thickness of the substrate may not exceed 3 cm. And it can be laid with centimeter gaps to ensure ventilation and temperature movement.

Note. It is advisable to choose a primer for glue for wooden floors with antistatic properties.

Technological procedure for laying parquet

Parquet installers have at their disposal a lot of options for laying out slabs: from the simplest “deck” with a “herringbone” to complex artistic drawings with mosaic modules and borders. In anticipation of the work, a layout plan is drawn up, which can be directed along any of the walls or at a 45º angle. Corner laying is advised to start from the central row. The same should be done if you do not get whole rows of the selected pattern.

To orient the first row, they construct something like a mooring cord. Two nails are driven into plywood from opposite sides of the row planned for laying, and a fishing line is pulled over them.

It is not forbidden to use one-component glue, but it is better to spend money and buy a two-component one. It will definitely not emit water harmful to the parquet.

In principle, the technology of laying parquet is quite simple, it consists in the sequential implementation of the following steps:

the prepared surface is carefully covered with soil;
with a spatula-comb, glue is applied to a small area, because. the binder dries extremely quickly;
a pre-assembled fragment of two or three dies is laid on the glue, taking into account the landmark-mooring. Parquets are glued with some effort. Excess glue squeezed out from under the parquet should be removed immediately;
you can fasten each installed bar with two or three nails or studs through a comb. Hammer the hardware at an angle of 45º. Nail heads should be sunk into the comb with a parquet nailer. Fastening parquet can be done through three elements;
completely laid parquet is left for the period of curing of the glue;
then they are polished in two or more steps, changing the sanding paper at each stage to an analog with smaller grain sizes. Grind until the defects that appeared during operation are cut off;
open with a stain, if there is a desire to change the color of the floor, then varnish in 3-9 layers.

There are many wisdoms in the technology of building a parquet floor. However, there is nothing extremely complicated. Of course, the parquet laid for the first time is unlikely to look like the floors in Versailles, but it's worth a try. Will it come out better?

Laying parquet on a concrete screed is one of the most popular ways to finish the floor in residential premises. We will tell you how to lay a parquet board on a concrete floor and make a beautiful floor covering with your own hands.

Preparation for work

Requirements for materials and base

Parquet can turn your floor into a luxurious element of room decor, provided that the technology of laying parquet boards on concrete is followed. It includes a number of rules and requirements that must be taken into account without fail.

The classic parquet board is made of solid wood of a certain breed:

oak,
beech,
hornbeam,
maple and some others.

And as we all know, wood is a rather finicky material, as it is more susceptible to climatic changes and temperature changes than others.

In addition, it is important to comply with the requirements for the base. In our case, the base is a concrete screed, so we will only talk about it.

Important!
Regardless of the quality of the parquet board, the method of laying it, the glue used and the method of fixing the coating, the base must be even, durable and have an acceptable moisture content.

Based on this, we can list the basic requirements for materials and the base:

Norm of deviations of the base surface from the horizontal plane. This is one of the main indicators of the quality of the preparation of the coating, on which the result of the floor finish will depend. Maximum deviations of not more than 2 mm per two meters of length in any direction are allowed;
Maximum inclination of the plane of the base surface to the horizon. This parameter is also important for ease of use and normal operation of the floor covering. It is allowed to have a slope of no more than 0.2% of the length of the room in this direction, however, no more than 50 mm of the total difference;
Humidity of the concrete screed base. If the concrete has not had time to dry, it cannot be covered, in addition, moisture can pass into the wood and spoil its quality. The normal moisture content of the substrate should not exceed 5% by the time work begins;
The temperature and humidity of the room in which the work is carried out. The microclimate affects the parameters of wood, and therefore it must also be normalized. Humidity from 40 to 60% and air temperature in the range of 18 - 23 degrees Celsius are considered optimal;
Compressive strength of the screed material. This parameter determines the minimum strength that concrete must exhibit. Acceptable can be at least 150 kgf / cm2, which corresponds to concrete grade M150 and higher.

To accurately determine the moisture content of materials, you can use a special device - a hygrometer.

Important!
The screed must have time to gain design strength, for which you should wait at least 28 days from the moment the floor was poured.
It is impossible to speed up the process by heating or additional ventilation of concrete.

Foundation preparation

As already mentioned, special attention is paid to the preparation of the base for parquet. Therefore, we want to analyze this topic in more detail.

There are two options - an old screed and a floor that requires concreting. In the first case, it is necessary to inspect the old floor and, if necessary, bring it into line with the requirements listed above. In the absence of a screed, it will have to be built independently or with the help of specialists.

As a rule, a rough screed is present in the apartments. Now you need to check its quality and evenness.

The first step is to check the floor with a two-meter rule for level differences from the plane. To do this, the rule is applied to the floor in different places and different positions, measuring the gaps that appear between the ruler and the surface. We remind you that the norm is 2 mm per 2 meters.

If abnormal drops occur sporadically and are caused by local bumps or potholes, then you can limit yourself to sanding or in these places with a large abrasive. You can use a grinder with an emery wheel.

If the differences are numerous, then it will be more expedient and easier to level the floor with a self-leveling compound, which can be purchased at any hardware store. Before using the mixture, the floor is cleaned of dust and dirt, primed with a special compound to increase adhesion, the solution is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions and poured onto the floor, leveling with a spiked roller.

The minimum layer thickness, depending on the composition of the mixture, can be from 1 to 3 cm. The leveling layer must also have time to gain strength and dry out. The maturation period of the material is indicated on the packaging and usually ranges from one to several days.

It is also possible to level the floor with a log and plywood, however, we are considering laying on concrete, and therefore this way we'll leave it for another article.

Important!
When the surface material has fully matured and gained its design strength, it is necessary to make sure that its moisture content does not exceed the permissible value.
To do this, it is better to use a special hygrometer, and if it is not available, attach a piece of plastic film to the floor for a day, and then look at its surface that was in contact with the floor (the presence of condensation will indicate high humidity).

If the old screed has significant defects - cracks, potholes, pits - they should be eliminated. Cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels will remove non-liquid areas of concrete around the defective area, which can then be filled with new mortar and leveled. If it is necessary to lay new pipes or risers, diamond drilling of holes in concrete is used with special crowns.

Parquet installation

The price of a professional installer is quite high, and therefore we offer to mount the coating yourself.

Our guide will help you with this:

The prepared floor surface is cleaned of dust and dirt, foreign objects and furniture are taken out of the room;

The screed is primed with a special primer, usually adhesive. Often the optimal primer material is indicated on the adhesive package. The primer is applied with a brush or roller to the entire surface and wait for it to dry;

Then you should prepare the glue according to the manufacturer's instructions. As a rule, a hardener is added to the oily substance and mixed;

The adhesive is applied to the floor surface with a notched trowel, as when laying tiles. Then, a parquet board is pressed into the glue layer and leveled. For convenience, you can stretch the beacons in the form of threads at a distance of the thickness of one board from the floor;

After laying two or three rows, the glue is allowed to dry, then the work is continued further. Boards should be adjusted to each other as tightly as possible using a mallet and puffs;

A deformation gap of 10 - 15 mm should be left between the coating and the walls for future thermal expansions. After laying the coating, the gaps are filled with cork compensator or elastic sealant;

When the laying is completed, the floor surface is scraped, sanded and puttied with a special putty that will close the gaps between the boards;

Finally, the floor is primed and opened with three layers of varnish. Sometimes you can limit yourself to impregnating the wood with oil or opening it with wax, but the varnish is considered more durable and resistant to wear.

Important!
The parquet board should be brought into the room in advance so that it has time to acclimatize.
This takes a few days or a week.

Conclusion

Laying a parquet board on a concrete screed is a popular and common way of finishing a floor, used all over the world. With the help of our guide and video in this article, you can understand the technology of such styling.

The method of laying parquet on a concrete screed has its own characteristics and differs significantly from laying on plywood or OSB. The production technology of works consists of several stages, the high-quality implementation of each of them is of great importance.

Important. Remember that the slightest violation of building codes and regulations, at best, will cause unpleasant squeaks while walking, and at worst, a complete peeling of the coating will occur. Troubleshooting - difficult process requiring a large loss of time and money. It is much more profitable to strictly follow the recommendations of manufacturers and not save on materials than to eliminate the consequences of poor-quality installation later.

Regardless of the method of laying strip parquet, for all adhesive compositions there are General requirements.

Minimum shrinkage. The composition in the liquid state should not drastically reduce its thickness after drying. This setting depends on several factors: chemical composition, operational indicators of the base and the correctness of the preparation of the solution.
Elasticity. During use, the parquet changes its linear dimensions. There are two reasons for this phenomenon. The first is thermal expansion. During the heating/cooling of the lamellas, they increase/decrease the parameters, and if the floors are heated (which is not recommended for piece parquet), then the difference in length can be significant. The second - the tree has hygroscopicity, as a result of which relative humidity can fluctuate within significant limits. Humidity fluctuations simultaneously change the dimensions of the lamellas. Due to the elasticity, the adhesive must compensate for all changes, otherwise, after a short time, the adhesion of materials will deteriorate sharply. As a result, squeaks while walking or peeling of some sections of the floor covering.
Long service life. Floors made of piece natural parquet are one of the most expensive coatings. They are used only in prestigious premises, and not all of our compatriots are affordable at a cost. In addition, the price of laying parquet floors is much higher than other types of flooring.
Flaking of lamellas - a big problem, the elimination requires complete dismantling and re-laying of the flooring. The dismantling of the parquet floor cannot be done without mechanical damage a certain number of lamellas. It is impossible to buy new ones with exactly the same characteristics, each batch of goods and each manufacturer has its own characteristics in terms of color shades and texture. And if several years have passed between the first laying and repair, then it is even theoretically impossible to find identical materials. There is only one way out - to buy new parquet for the entire area. Repair will cost several times more than the first installation of parquet.
Minimum amount of water. Natural parquet, like all lumber, is very hygroscopic. Prolonged direct contact with water can cause warping, such a floor has to be completely redone.
Ecological safety, absence of unpleasant smells. Important Points. Unfortunately, there are no high-quality natural-based adhesives. The better the performance of the material, the more various chemical compounds it contains. There is only one consolation - the amount of harmful emissions is tightly controlled by government organizations. And the parquet coating is so dense that it almost does not let air into the living space.

Knowing the general requirements, you can more carefully approach the choice of a specific brand of glue, taking into account the maximum number of existing features. But the strength of parquet on a concrete screed depends not only on it, we will talk about other factors a little lower. The optimal choice of glue is important, but not the only condition for the durability of a parquet floor. What adhesives can be found today in the implementation?

Overview of adhesives

Professionals distinguish several groups of compositions, each of them has its own performance characteristics.

Dispersive

The safest adhesive, does not contain aggressive chemical compounds, odorless. Due to the large amount of water, it is recommended for laying parquet made of moisture-resistant wood species (larch, oak). Not recommended for parquet made of beech, maple, ash and other types of wood that are unstable to high humidity. Another disadvantage of water-based glue is the relatively long drying period. In terms of adhesion, it is inferior to more modern compositions.

Synthetic

Synthetic resins or rubber are used as adhesives. Recommended for natural wood flooring, curing time ≈15 minutes. Artificial resins do not have high adhesion rates; in connection with such features, increased requirements are imposed on the primer and screed.

Two-component

The most expensive and most durable compounds, universal application, can be used for any basis. Two components must be mixed before use: hardener and adhesive. In liquid form, harmful chemical compounds are released, you need to work in means personal protection respiratory organs. Epoxy two-component adhesive, after hardening, turns into a solid inelastic material, which somewhat narrows its scope.

Polymeric

In terms of cost and effectiveness, it occupies an average position. The adhesive hardens under the influence of moisture contained in the air. It is made on the basis of MS-polymers (silanes), has the effect of sound insulation. Disadvantages - sharp bad smell and a long freezing period.

One-component polyurethane

After hardening, elasticity remains, it can be used for both parquet and plywood. Does not pass capillary moisture, prevents swelling of lamellas. It is characterized by high adhesion to most building materials, dries quickly, can be used with any type of wood, regardless of its reaction to high humidity.

When determining the optimal adhesive, it is necessary to take into account not only the characteristics of the base and parquet, but also the expected load on the floors.

For all cases, there is one important condition - before using the adhesive, the concrete base must be primed. The quality of the primer has a great influence on the bonding strength of the parquet. For each adhesive composition, you need to select a certain type of primer. This nuance must be taken into account when choosing an adhesive; to facilitate the decision, you should familiarize yourself with the existing primers.

Primers for glue

Primers correct the process of absorption of glue by the base, bind dust, and somewhat strengthen the surface. Without them, one cannot hope for a strong connection between the parquet and the base. Universal advice - buy a primer at the same time as glue, their compositions should be as identical as possible. Polyurethane adhesives require polyurethane primers, dispersion dispersions, etc.

In addition to these important functions, primers on a concrete base protect the coating from rising capillary moisture. high humidity negatively affects the adhesion performance of all adhesives. It is possible to apply primers on concrete bases only after checking their moisture content. At indications ≤ 5%, only epoxy primers should be used, at humidity ≤ 1.5%, polyurethane primers are allowed. If the moisture content of the concrete screed is > 5%, the room must be dried before priming.

Types of glue for parquet on concrete screed

We will list the most common brands of parquet adhesive, these compounds have positive reviews from professionals.

Name	Specifications
	Two-component adhesive, made in Germany, on square meter floor requires 1000-1200 g. Does not cause swelling of the lamellas, suitable for use on various grounds. Universal application, the quality meets modern requirements. Work without personal protective equipment is allowed.
	Produced in Italy, has a two-component composition, consumption 1000–1300 g/m2. It is characterized by high rates of adhesion with all building materials, moisture not more than 30%. In the hardened state, it remains elastic, after preparation it should be used within 30 minutes. It is allowed to walk on the surface of the parquet floor after 48 hours, the time before grinding is at least 15 days. Do not use in rooms with high humidity levels.
	Consumption 120–200 g/m2, water resistance class D3, one-component, ready-to-use. Designed for restoration work on parquet floors, it can be used for gluing individual elements of artistic parquet, modules, tongue-and-groove joints. Made in Italy, vinyl base, final curing after 24 hours.
	The adhesive does not contain solvents, has high adhesion to concrete and cement-sand screeds. After hardening, it is not afraid of prolonged direct contact with water. It is used for re-gluing peeled parquet, can be used for flooring with heating systems. When hardening, it expands slightly, is made on the basis of polyurethane.
	On organic solvents, the beginning of film formation 10 minutes after application to the surface. Made in Italy, can be used for gluing large-format lamellas. Full strength is achieved after 48 hours, the recommended consumption is 1000–1300 g/m2. After hardening, elasticity remains. It is recommended to work at a temperature ≥ +20°С, indoor humidity not less than 40%.
	It has an extended operating time (2.5 hours), does not leave stains on the front surface of the parquet. It hardens with the help of moisture in the air, does not shrink, is optimally suited for precious wood parquet. The adhesive is two-component, the floor surface can be walked on after 18 hours. Can be used on underfloor heating.
	Produced in Italy, does not contain solvents, there are no compounds harmful to health. Consumption per square meter 800-1000 g, made on the basis of silicic acid. After applying the adhesive to the base, the lamellas must be laid no later than after 40-50 minutes, hardens after 6 hours, sanding the parquet is allowed after 36 hours. Has high rates of adhesion with all types of wood. During work it is necessary to use means of protection of respiratory organs.

It should be borne in mind that adhesives for parquet on cement screed are much more expensive than for other floor coverings. This is due to the high requirements for reliability and durability.

Wood is a living material that changes its characteristics taking into account humidity and temperature, depending on the fluctuations of these parameters, not only its dimensions, but also other physical characteristics. Modern solutions take this feature into account and guarantee high and stable adhesion rates in any operating conditions.

How to use parquet adhesive

We have already mentioned that not a single, even the most high-quality and expensive, parquet adhesive will provide the necessary degree of adhesion of the floor covering to the concrete base, if the rules of use are grossly violated. How to install parquet to guarantee a long life of the parquet floor?

Step 1. Calculate the size of the room, buy a suitable adhesive, taking into account the consumption rate per unit area.

Practical advice. The norms indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging do not correspond to practical consumption. The fact is that they are designed for a perfectly flat surface and the same thickness of the application of the material. In practice, such conditions do not exist, always buy glue with a small margin. This is much more profitable than interrupting the laying of parquet due to lack of material.

Step 2 Check the condition of the concrete screed.

Small gaps can be left unsealed, and height differences of more than two millimeters per linear meter will have to be eliminated. The easiest way to make a self-leveling floor, it has high strength and allows you to get a flat surface. If this is not possible for some reason, then the concrete base can be leveled with a cement-sand screed.

Important. The strength of the parquet flooring is directly related to the strength of the base. If the screed crumbles, then no glue will help. During the preparation of the mortar, increase the amount of cement by about 15–20% of the usual rate.

If possible, it is recommended to sand the base surface with special grinders before laying the parquet. They will not only level the floor, but also remove milk from the concrete, thereby significantly increasing the strength of the surface of the coating. This is very important for high-quality laying of piece parquet.

Step 3 Clean the room thoroughly with a vacuum cleaner. On the surface of the concrete there should be not only large construction debris, but also sand and dust. The cleaner the base, the stronger the parquet will hold.

Step 4 Check humidity readings concrete base. You can do this using special device, take measurements in several places, always in the corners of the room, here the humidity always has increased values.

If there is no device, then do it by eye: after pouring the mass, it should harden for at least 14 days, the last 2-3 days of the room should be constantly ventilated. Depending on the brand of adhesive, work can be started at relative humidity values on the base surface of less than 5%, some compositions can be used at lower humidity.

Step 5 Make a preliminary layout of the parquet, if desired, control lines can be applied to the base, with their help it is easier to check the correct laying.

Practical advice. If you plan to lay herringbone parquet, then immediately prepare all the segments. Glue, depending on the brand, cannot be weathered for more than 30 minutes, and for some compositions, the time is reduced to 10 minutes. You won't have time to trim the lamellas.

Step 6 Prime the base. The type of primer depends on the type of adhesive, be sure to consider this requirement when purchasing materials.

The primer should be evenly distributed over the entire area, use a roller. In hard-to-reach places, you can work with brushes.

Make sure there are no gaps. All professionals strongly recommend covering the base with at least two coats of primer, especially if the solution is quickly absorbed. During the application of the second layer, the movements of the roller should be perpendicular to the first, this will eliminate the release. Give the primer time to dry completely.

Step 7 Prepare the parquet adhesive according to the manufacturer's instructions. A single portion of glue should correspond to labor productivity. Please note that adhesives must not be diluted once the curing process has begun. All proportions should be carefully observed. Glue should be stirred with an electric drill with a whisk, cartridge speed is medium.

Too high speeds cause air bubbles to form in the adhesive, which Negative influence on the adhesion of materials. If you are preparing a two-component adhesive, then you need to stir with special care, the hardener should be evenly distributed throughout the volume.

Step 8 Using a comb trowel, apply adhesive to a section of the floor, the size of the area depends on your professionalism.

Take the lamellas out of the packaging one by one and lay them on the glue. At the same time, do not forget to leave a gap between the flooring and the walls, the gap width is 1–1.5 cm. Press the slats with your hands, make sure that they lie strictly horizontally. You should check the correctness of the installation using a level or a rule, if you have enough experience in performing such work, then control can be done visually. But we do not advise beginners to do this, the risks of mistakes are high.

Practical advice. Professional builders in a simple way increase the bonding strength of the parquet and completely eliminate the risk of squeaks while walking.

It is done like this. Three or four slats are folded in an even stack and lean against the floor from the side of the spikes with smeared glue. Due to this, a little glue remains on the spikes, they enter the grooves and significantly increase the stability of the coating. Such actions do not take much time, and positive effect noticeable. There is no need to be afraid that glue will appear on the surface of the parquet, a small amount of it will always hide in the grooves.

To facilitate the work, you can make the simplest device for controlling the area of \u200b\u200bglue application. Take a piece of rope, its length should be equal to the width of 3-4 rows of parquet. Tie a pencil or marker to one end, any smooth object to the other. Rest the object against the edge of the laid parquet, pull the rope and slowly move it along the lamellas. A line should be drawn on the base, it will indicate how wide to spread the glue.

Laying parquet is carried out in an uncomfortable position, wear soft knee pads, this will facilitate the work. It is advisable to press the laid lamellas with some kind of load until completely dry. You can use packs of unused parquet.

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Video - How to quickly lay parquet

Laying parquet on the screed is carried out only with preliminary leveling of the base floor. If the unevenness of the base floor exceeds 2 cm, then a screed can be used to level the floor (cement-sand screed, semi-dry screed with fiber). If the unevenness of the floor is less than 2 cm, then self-leveling mixtures (self-leveling floor) are suitable for leveling. All these works are included in the repair of the apartment ().

Laying parquet on a screed - stages of work

After the screed has completely dried, you can start laying the parquet. Laying parquet on the screed takes place in the following steps:

Primer screed;
vapor barrier concrete pavement gender;
plywood laying;
parquet flooring;
Sanding parquet;
Priming and varnishing parquet.

Primer screed

Before priming, the surface of the screed must be vacuumed. Primer screed otherwise, the primer coating will finally dedust the surface of the screed and create the first layer of vapor barrier. The screed is primed with a roller, starting from the corner to the exit.

Vapor barrier of concrete pavement

Vapor barrier is protection of the parquet flooring from the ingress of moisture from the screed to the parquet. Concerning the vapor barrier before laying parquet, there are opposing opinions. I stick with the following:

Vapor barrier before laying parquet is required . Only for vapor barrier use a special vapor barrier film (e.g. Eurovent) or a special vapor barrier compound (e.g. Elastopaz and Elastomix)

Plywood flooring before laying parquet

Parquet must not be laid on a concrete floor. Under the parquet on the screed, you need to lay one layer of plywood with a thickness of 12-18 mm. In this case, the thickness of plywood must be at least 3/4 of the thickness of the parquet.

Plywood before laying must be sawn into squares from 45 × 45 cm to 75 × 75 cm. This is done for two reasons.. The first is to relieve physical stress in plywood sheets, which can cause skew of large sheets and subsequent skew of the parquet. The second one is the possibility of smaller focal repair of the parquet in case of its emergency swelling.

Plywood sheets are laid on a two-component adhesive, fixed with self-tapping screws on plastic dowels and pressed down with a load.

At the same time, plywood is laid with a “brick” offset and expansion joints 3-5 between sheets and 7-10 mm. Between the sheets and the wall. For artistic parquet, expansion joints between sheets should be minimal.

Note: To increase the sound insulation of the parquet floor, two layers of 2 mm cork coating (sound insulator) should be laid under the plywood layer.

Self-tapping screws for fastening plywood are wrapped with a slight depth. Such a deepening will not interfere with the next step: sanding the plywood.

Sanding plywood

The laid plywood needs to be sanded. This is done by grinders with medium and fine sandpaper.

After sanding the plywood, the surface must be dedusted with a vacuum cleaner and coated with a primer to improve the adhesion of the parquet adhesive to the plywood.

Before laying the parquet, the plywood should be kept on the floor for 3-5 days, for climatization with the room.

Parquet installation

The parquet is laid according to a pre-selected parquet pattern. Laying parquet is made on a special glue. Glue is applied to the floor with a spatula. The parquets are shot to the edge of the plywood along the edge of the plank. For this, a special pneumatic or mechanical tool is used.

Sanding parquet

Before polishing the parquet, you need to take a technological break of 5-7 days, depending on the humidity of the room. During this period, the parquet "settle down" and it can be sanded.

Parquet varnishing

To be made with a preliminary varnish primer. Lacquer coating is applied in several layers. Each layer of varnish, except for the last one, needs to be sanded. This removes the pile of wood from the parquet.

That's all! The laying of the parquet on the screed is completed. Walk on the beautiful floor.

Three-layer parquet belongs to the category of stable floor coverings. Therefore, it can be laid both on glue and in a “floating” (independent) way. To make the floor durable when mounted on a screed, follow our recommendations.

The parquet board in most cases is made of oak. Ash, walnut, cherry, iroko and other species are less commonly used. Only solid wood is used, but some of them behave completely unpredictably in combination with underfloor heating systems. Therefore, parquet made of maple, beech, exotic species is not recommended to be mounted on "warm floors" of any type, whether it be a water variety or thermomats.

The assembly of the coating in a “floating” way is carried out using tongue-and-groove locks of several formats:

Laying a parquet board on a concrete floor is carried out in two ways:

"Floating", that is, a coating web is formed that is not bonded to the base in any way.
Adhesive - the most reliable and durable way. In this case, an adhesive elastic polymer-based composition is required, indicating - for concrete floors.

Perhaps someone will also remember laying with fasteners, but hardware is used in combination with plywood, chipboard or any other prefabricated screed. This is not suitable for a mineral base.

Laying parquet on a screed or glue is done with an offset. This means that all rows are shifted by 1/3 relative to each other. This is the most best way installation of long coatings, since a sufficiently strong circular strapping of each element of the web is formed.

Laying a parquet board on a screed - a step-by-step guide

To begin with, we list the materials and tools that will be required during the work:

Laying parquet on a concrete screed is the final, final stage of the repair, so all other work should be completed by this time. The recommended air temperature is from +18 to +24 °С, relative humidity level is 40-60%. The floor heating system turns on in 14 days and turns off in 2-3 hours.

At the same time, acclimatization conditions must be observed: parquet in the package should be brought into the room 2-3 days before the start of work, and opened immediately before installation.

Laying parquet boards on glue is most often carried out in cases where the risk of changing linear dimensions is very high (stably elevated humidity levels, severe changes in climatic conditions). Or if the assembly area exceeds 120-200 m². The maximum allowable width of the coating laid in a single, continuous sheet is up to 15 m.

The technology of laying parquet boards in a "floating way" is as follows:

Foundation preparation

Absolutely all manufacturers require that the concrete floor be even, dry, durable, free of debris, old coatings, oil and other stains. Permissible level differences - up to 2 mm for every 2 meters of the base. For verification, a 2-meter control rail is used.

If the sand “crumbles” from the screed layer, then it is necessary to prime the floor with a reinforcing compound. You can also use special reinforcing canvases (Multimol from Utsin and others).

The moisture content of a cement-sand screed or concrete floor should not exceed 2.5%, anhydrite - up to 0.5%. The percentage of moisture content should be checked with a contact moisture meter.

The next step is waterproofing flooring. The film is spread over the entire surface with an overlap of 15-20 cm, the joints are glued with adhesive tape. Next, you need to lay the substrate end-to-end. If a coniferous variety is used, then, according to the recommendations of the manufacturers, it is laid in a diagonal with trimming of the extreme plates.

Plan-scheme of laying parquet.

Before assembling, it is necessary to carefully measure the room again and draw a laying scheme on a sheet of paper to scale. This is done in order to accurately calculate the dimensions of the extreme strips. Their width should not be less than 50 mm. Otherwise, the first row is shifted by the missing centimeters.

Laying floor material

Parquet slats are taken out of the packaging and laid out on the floor. Since the top layer is made from natural wood, the surface may vary in tone or pattern.

Laying wood flooring must be done in the longitudinal direction. This is best option, since the percentage of shrinkage of wood products along is significantly lower than the transverse shrinkage.

Installation starts from the length of the wall from left to right. A spike is cut off at the extreme bar, the board is laid in place and plastic or wooden wedges are installed to provide a gap between the wall and the coating. The first row is assembled, the second one begins with a trimmed lamella. If necessary, the connection is sealed with a tamping bar.

The last row is cut to the specified dimensions with a miter saw, assembled along the end, then inserted into the gap and pressed with a metal bracket.

To form a pipe bypass, you need to “cut” the bar with a pencil, cut it and cut out the necessary hole in compliance with the rule of expansion joints. The board is installed, the segment is coated with glue along the edge and put in place.

Installation of skirting boards and other moldings

Remove all wedges around the perimeter, activate "warm floors". Screw a decorative strip suitable in tone and texture to the wall, in doorways install transition strips. For columns and the like, flexible PVC thresholds can be used.

The technique of laying a parquet board on a screed with an adhesive method repeats the first stage (preparation of the base). But the installation itself is as follows:

Parquet board care

In order for the assembled coating to serve without problems for many years, it is imperative:

Install anti-splash mats at the entrance, and silicone or textile mats under the wheels of the furniture;
Stuff or stick on the legs of cabinets, tables, chairs and other furniture items felt or plastic tread pads;
Do not use coarse-bristled, abrasive brushes for cleaning. detergents or aggressive chemicals;
Avoid sudden changes in humidity and temperature.

Use a vacuum cleaner for daily cleaning. Purchase as cleaners special series care products, including stain removers and surface fresheners. And do not forget to periodically renew the protective coating:

Rice. 8 (Renovation of the protective coating of the parquet floor)

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