Everyone loves cucumbers, whether they are fresh or pickled and pickled. And in order to get a good harvest, it is necessary to choose the right soil for cucumbers, the composition of which should help for a large harvest. The video in this article shows step-by-step instruction how to grow a good crop of cucumbers with your own hands.

The most important condition for obtaining good seedlings is the right soil. If the soil is unfortunate, then the sprouts will get sick and grow very weak, if they do not die. Therefore, it is necessary to approach this choice with all responsibility.

Most summer residents and gardeners prefer to purchase a ready-made soil mixture so that it is presented in a large assortment in any agricultural store and the price for them is acceptable to any consumer.

But in this case, there are also disadvantages, since some manufacturers sell ordinary peat instead of soil mixtures, which is not suitable for seedlings. If you buy ready-made soil, then it must be a proven brand and manufacturer.

Advice! It is better to do the soil for seedlings yourself, so you will know exactly what is included in its composition.

Ground Requirements

A good soil for seedlings of cucumbers can be from a variety of components, but there are General requirements which it must match:

• The soil needs to be balanced and fertile., therefore, its composition should contain not only organic substances, but also micro- and macroelements.
• The soil must be porous light and loose, this will allow the root system of young shoots to receive enough oxygen.
• The earth must be able to absorb water well enough. and hold it, which will allow moisture to evenly moisten the entire volume of soil in the container.
• For the soil, it is important that it contains a "live" microflora, as it is very useful for young plants.
• The acidity level of the soil should be as close to neutral as possible, approximately 6.5 - 7.0.

It is also very important that the soil does not have:

• Make sure that fungus spores do not get into your soil., weed seeds, larvae or eggs of insects, as well as microorganisms that bring disease.
• Soil for cucumbers should not be toxic, therefore, its components cannot be taken in dangerous places, for example: a highway or city lawns. It is better to take them from forest plantations or groves.
• There should be no rapidly and actively decomposing components in the ground so that when mixing, microorganisms do not wake up and the decomposition process does not begin.
• The composition of the soil for cucumbers should not include clay, as it will degrade the quality of your soil mixture, and the seedlings will die.

What can be in the composition of the soil

The soil in the greenhouse for cucumbers may consist of the following components:

• Sod land or land from the garden.
• Leaf land is the half-rotted leaves of trees, except for willow and oak.
• Sunflower husk or husk from grains.
• Crushed raw egg shells.
• Wood ash.
• Moss sphagnum.
• Humus.
• Peat (see).

Here are the inorganic components that can be used to create a soil mixture:

• Very well washed river sand. It is needed for better loosening of the soil.
• Neutral eco-friendly material- perlite. It helps the earth "breathe" and retains moisture.
• The material is vermiculite, plus it contains calcium, magnesium and potassium.
• A polymer such as a hydrogel will help retain the right moisture and reduce the amount of watering.
• Slaked lime will help reduce the acidity of the soil.
• Shredded foam.
• Expanded clay.

What are the soil compositions?

There are several approximate compositions of soil mixtures that are suitable for seedlings:

• Soddy or leafy soil is about one part + peat or humus is also one part + sand or perlite is also one part.
• Three parts of turf and leaf ground+ also about three parts of humus + one part of river sand or vermiculite.
• Soddy land is about two parts + humus is only one part + also one part of sand + we take about two glasses of wood ash for a bucket of this mixture.
• One part of soddy land + one part of about humus + take about one glass of wood ash per bucket of such a mixture.
• One part of the land from the garden + also one part of the purchased land "universal" + also one part of the sand.

Below is the composition of the soil mixture, which is considered the best for cucumbers:

• Twenty liters of sod-leaf land.
• Approximately eight grams of ammonium nitrate.
• About ten grams of double superphosphate.
• And about ten grams of sulfuric potassium.
• Add three or four tablespoons of wood ash.

And one more composition:

• We take three to four parts of non-acidic peat.
• Add about four parts of humus.
• And four parts of pure fertile land.
• Dilute the mixture with one part of the sand.
• Also sawdust.
• As a result, we add about three kilograms of manure and half a glass of wood ash per meter of land.

And in conclusion, you can add special fertilizers for cucumber land (see).

Advice! If you are a beginner, then try in different containers different formulations soil, so you end up choosing the one that suits you best.

Preparatory work

To grow cucumbers in a greenhouse, we prepare the soil for them very carefully. The earth, like sand, must first be well sieved and any debris, insect larvae and worms removed. Then it is worth disinfecting the soil to protect the plants from diseases and pests.

This can be done in several ways:

• Freeze. The ground prepared in the fall is covered so that precipitation does not fall and left for the winter on the street. About a month before planting, they bring it in, warm it, mix it with the rest of the ingredients and, having covered it, take it out again in the cold before planting.
• Steam. About a month before planting, the soil mixture is steamed in a water bath, under a closed lid, for about three hours.
• Ignite. The soil is calcined in an oven preheated to forty degrees, for about half an hour.

Purchased soil does not require disinfection, as it has already been prepared.

We buy soil

Consider a few useful tips from experienced summer residents what you need to know when buying shop soil for seedlings of cucumbers:

• In stores, the soil is universal and special, for various crops. Experienced vegetable growers buy special soil, since active fertilizers must be additionally added to the universal one.
• Be sure to buy a package with a label that indicates the manufacturer and his address, the composition of the soil itself and its batch number, as well as the production and expiration dates. Also on the label there is useful information, for example: the acidity of the soil is indicated.
• Read the composition of the soil well, ideally it should be a couple of types of peat, sand or vermiculite, as well as montmorillonite alumina. If the composition per liter of the mixture contains 300 milligrams of potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus, then this mixture is used as a separate component of the main mixture.
• If you are buying soil for the first time, then take one small bag of different mixtures per sample. In the future, the soil you like can be purchased in bulk in large quantities. The main thing is that it be porous, loose and hold moisture well.
• At home, the earth must be sorted out, as debris and larvae may also be present in it. Then it is disinfected for prevention, but this must be done in advance, since the beneficial microflora also dies with diseases.

Types of store soil

Ready store soil, it is convenient and does not take much time. But not all of them are used in their pure form: some are ready for planting right away, others need to add fertilizer, and still others are used as an additive to the main mixture.

Consider the most popular of them:

• Living earth. This soil can be used both immediately for planting and instead of fertilizer. It can be of several types: universal, special No. 1 - slightly acidic, special No. 2 - neutral and floral. Special No. 2 is suitable for cucumbers.
• Mother Earth. This soil is almost ready for planting, but it is not loose enough for cucumbers, so semi-rotted sawdust about twenty percent of the amount of the mixture or Agrovermiculite is added to it.
• Humimax. He is ready for boarding and has already been spayed. Such soil consists of peat, river sand, mineral fertilizers, manure compost and Humimax fertilizer, which contains potassium humate, a biologically active component.
• Micro-greenhouse. Such soil is considered neutral and with the addition of sand or sawdust and steamed soil, various vegetable crops can be grown in it. If you add sawdust, they should be poured over with boiling water and mixed with ash.
• Ground for cucumbers. This is ready-made soil for planting cucumber seeds. It is based on peat, diluted with all the necessary elements for the nutrition and rapid growth of cucumber seedlings and its good harvest.
• Biud soils. These are organo-mineral soils, which are prepared according to special technology. They are ready to land. They are different types: for solanaceous, for conifers, for garden flowers, for indoor flowers, for vegetables and for cucurbits.
• Universal. This type of soil consists of peat and semi-rotted sawdust, and before planting it should be further enriched with mineral fertilizers. You can add twenty percent of the entire mixture, Pixa or biohumus.
• Biohumus. This is an additive from the main soil mixture, consisting of lying sawdust, ventilated peat, bird droppings and manure processed by worms. Most often, it is added in an amount of twenty percent of the total mixture.

It makes no sense to list all varieties of soil ready for planting and additives to the soil mixture. Any neighbor-dacha resident will advise you which soil is better. And also sales consultants will tell you what to take for a test.

Peat tablets

Peat tablets are a relatively recent invention and their cost is several times higher than soil in bags, but gardeners appreciated their convenience. They are easy to use, they do not need to be disinfected, and it is convenient to transplant the grown seedlings.

Such tablets consist of compressed peat or coconut fiber, which have equivalent properties. They are packed in a paper shell or natural mesh, which are impregnated by special means against diseases and pests.

Advice! You should not buy peat tablets without a shell, because when swollen, it will not be a container, but a handful of wet peat.

Tablets are available in different sizes and are purchased depending on the size of the seed of your plant. They also have different acidity, which is usually indicated on the packaging of tablets, so when buying tablets, carefully read the label.

Peat cups

Peat cups are more popular peat tablets because it's even more convenient. Most often they are used when picking seedlings. They are good because they are created from environmentally friendly natural materials and decompose well in the ground, leaving no traces.

Their advantages include their durability and environmental friendliness. They are porous, which allows air and moisture to easily penetrate. This advantage allows the roots to breathe well and not sour. Transplantation to a permanent place is carried out together with a glass, so the roots remain safe and sound.

But peat cups also have disadvantages, this applies to their cheap varieties. Due to the low price, their quality also suffers, they get wet and can become moldy. All types of peat cups have the problem of rapid water absorption, so they need to be watered more often.

Conclusion

How many cucumbers sprout in the soil you choose will depend on the varieties of the cucumbers themselves. And with proper cultivation of tomato and cucumber in protected ground, you will get a wonderful and delicious harvest amazing vegetables.

It has always been believed that the land in the greenhouse plays the most important role in obtaining good harvest. It contains all the necessary minerals that contribute to the normal growth of any plants.

What should be the soil for the greenhouse

What land is needed for a greenhouse? This question mainly worries only beginner gardeners.
Many factors influence the choice of soil type:

• The type of crop grown.
• What time of year does it grow?
• Will there be soil heating in the greenhouse or not.
• What are the climatic conditions in the region, as they directly affect the composition of the soil and so on.

Let's take a closer look:

• As a rule, in its composition the soil for the greenhouse has: humus, compost, soddy soil, sand, peat, calcareous rocks.

Note. As soon as you need to prepare the soil for the greenhouse, they rely on the following parameters: 1 m3 of soil falls on 5 m2 of a greenhouse structure with racks, in soil greenhouses - 4 m2, for greenhouses of 4 frames - 4 m2.

• In addition, for some crops that have certain characteristics in their growth, many gardeners prepare bedding. For example, cucumbers or tomatoes (see Growing tomatoes in greenhouses: process details).

How to prepare soil for a greenhouse

For such actions, there is a special instruction with clearly established norms of the components.
For this you will need:

• Sod, humus not higher than 45%.
• Sand - 3%.
• Peat - up to 10%.

Advice. In order to make soil for cucumbers or tomatoes, then all components, except for sand, come in equal quantities.

It is worth considering that if topping is required, then the tomatoes are sprinkled with peat or the same soil as for cucumbers.
The main requirements that the soil in the greenhouse must meet for normal yields:

• Ensure normal heat exchange.
• Let air through.
• Saturate with water during watering (see How to water tomatoes in a greenhouse correctly) and be able to pass it through yourself in case of growing non-hygrophilous crops.
• Absorb all the necessary substances and mineral elements in case of fertilization.

• Making soil for a greenhouse with your own hands is not difficult.
• Initially, the conditions for the normal growth of the culture that is planned to be grown in the structure are studied.
• Only on the basis of this soil is made and then fertilized.

Preparation of all soil components for the greenhouse and soil preparation

One of the main components of the soil is humus. What it is?
Characteristics of humus:

• Manure is completely rotted manure.
• It is used inside the structure as a natural fuel (biofuel).

Manure preparation:

• There is manure that has already been used in the greenhouse.
• It is pulled out of the structure after harvesting and laid out in piles.
• Then it is covered with peat and regularly watered with slurry.

Advice. In this process, the main thing is to rearrange the stacks to other places so that the manure does not dry out.

Thus, the manure turns into humus.
The composition of the humus:

• Phosphoric acid.
• calcium oxide.
• Nitrogen.
• potassium oxide.

All these elements are useful for the plant.
Humus properties:

• It saturates the soil with minerals.
• Together with humus, a huge number of nutrient microorganisms enter the soil.
• Soil with humus has good air exchange and perfectly passes water.

Note. It is worth considering that humus cannot be used as soil. Subsequently, the vegetation of crops will begin.

Sod is no less important than humus. Why exactly is it put in the soil for growing "capricious" plants?
Composition and functions of soddy soil:

• She has in herself a large number of remnants of tree and grass roots.
• Due to this, the soil becomes saturated with nutrients.
• At the same time, its moisture absorption increases and the plants are in a favorable environment.

Note. It is necessary to harvest turf for a greenhouse in fields and meadows. Near the swampy area, and where sedges and horsetails grow, you should not take the land. The soil will be highly acidic.

Sod is prepared in almost the same way as humus:

• Initially, the upper layer is removed from the surface of the earth, which is penetrated by a numerous root system.
• Then on the site they stack it in piles mixed with manure. Be sure to sprinkle with lime.

Advice. The height of such a spatula should reach up to 1.5 m. All the time before use, the turf is watered with slurry and shifted. Peat will also need to be prepared.

He can be:

• transitional.
• Lowland.

Note. Experienced gardeners prepare the mixture from low-lying sedge peat. Its ash content reaches 12%.

• Humidity of peat when used should not be more than 65%.
• Dry peat chips are never used, as it can not be wetted with water in a quality manner.
• The acidity of the soil in this case should be 6.5.

Advice. The soil should not contain insects, pests and pathogens of soil diseases.

Land preparation in greenhouses is characterized not only by mixing all the components:

• Immediately all the ingredients are mixed in the prescribed proportions.
• Then the soil is placed in a greenhouse.

Advice. If the soil is placed in the structure in advance, then it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory work before planting.

• They consist in watering the soil a few days before planting.
• If the soil has not been moistened for a long time, then it would be better to fertilize it with minerals two weeks before planting.

Note. Fertilizer can be done after planting the plants, when it becomes clear that they have begun.

The video shows an example of soil preparation in a greenhouse.

Neutralization of the soil in the greenhouse or its replacement

Soil disinfection in a greenhouse is carried out due to two factors:

• The soil has not been used for planting for a long time.
• If required, grow other crops on the existing soil.

Note. It is possible to replace the soil, but this process is lengthy and if there is no desire to make it yourself, then the price for it is quite high.

How to disinfect the soil in a greenhouse? This question worries almost everyone. Here you need to follow all the rules and regulations so that clean soil contributes to the normal growth of plants in it.
Let's take a closer look:

• If you do not change the soil in the greenhouse, then every year it will become less and less mineral, and it will be saturated with insects that can corrode the root system from the inside.
• At the same time, the yield will be less and less.
• Brings the earth into the greenhouse is better not from the garden.
• It contains a large number of harmful microorganisms.

Advice. The soil is made independently or brought from a remote area where there is no constant cultivation of crops.

To disinfect the soil you will need:

• You can use copper sulfate. Initially, a solution is prepared.
  To do this, you need a standard bucket of water (10 liters) and 1 tbsp. copper sulfate. This solution is used to water the soil after harvesting in the greenhouse.

Note. It is necessary to handle a solution of copper sulphate with extreme care, since it is copper, which is toxic and adversely affects the human body.

• There is a special soil treatment with steam. Under the influence of high temperature, many harmful particles die.
  To do this, the soil is poured with boiling water and covered with a film. At the moment, this method of purification is considered the most economical and non-toxic.
• Formalin is also widely used. It is a toxic substance. Use it in finished form.
  Grooves are made in the soil and it is poured into them. The grooves are buried, and the soil is not touched for 14 days. Then you need to ventilate the structure (at least 2 weeks). After that, the soil is well dug up.
• Well gardeners use a sulfur checker. It is installed in the structure and set on fire for an hour. Within 10-14 days after this, the greenhouse is ventilated.
• Bleach can also rid the greenhouse of pests. Sprinkle the soil with it, as it goes dry.

Advice. It is not enough to disinfect the soil in the greenhouse. It is necessary to disinfect the entire structure.

This will require:

• Wash windows and doors well.
• Dilute potassium permanganate and wipe all surfaces with it.

• If there is no desire to disinfect the soil, then the land in the greenhouse is replaced.
• To do this, the soil is completely pulled out.
• New soil is being put in its place.

Advice. Before placing new soil, the greenhouse structure is decontaminated by special means.

Soil heating in the greenhouse

At the moment, everyone is trying to heat only the structure of a greenhouse or greenhouse, forgetting that heating the earth in a greenhouse can give a better result.

More:

• Heating the soil in the greenhouse helps to increase temperature regime inside the soil.
• Due to this, the maturation of the root system occurs more quickly.
• This increases the productivity.
• A favorable microclimate is created inside the structure.

For this, special electric plates are used, which are placed under the main soil:

• Turn on from the control panel or automatically.
• It is possible to adjust the power of the heat supply.
• They do not burn in the event of a short circuit, as they are underground.
• Will not harm cultivated crops.

It is worth considering that it is important not only to make high-quality soil for the greenhouse. Need more for him proper care which will increase productivity.
Recommendations:

• It is necessary to carry out regular watering, which will protect the soil from drying out.
• Mineral fertilizers are also applied, which enrich the soil with nutrients.
• A favorable microclimate should be created inside the greenhouse.

Note. If you violate all the conditions for keeping plants, then mold may appear on the ground in the greenhouse.

This is due to excessive moisture inside the structure.
The earth not only turns white at the same time:

• In some cases, it turns green.
• Both that and that kind fungal disease not only dangerous for plants, but also for humans.
• Getting rid of this type of mold is quite difficult.

It is best not to overdo it with irrigation and regularly ventilate the greenhouse so that it constantly has a constant temperature regime.

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How to make a bed for cucumbers?

Cucumbers are thermophilic vegetables. A bed for cucumbers with your own hands will be the best gift these wonderful and so necessary to all vegetables. After the crop is harvested in the fall, you can immediately begin to prepare the site for the next season's crop. A warm bed for cucumbers is prepared in several ways.

Methods for arranging beds

• for this, a trench is dug;
• the width of the trench is 1.5 m, the depth is two shovels, and the length can be any;
• across the trench is laid out with branches;
• empty spaces are filled with sawdust;
• straw should be placed on top of the sawdust. Straw layer - 5-7 cm;
• on top you need to pour manure mixed with earth;
• pour warm water;
• make a fence of branches, slate or boards to maintain the shape of the beds and to protect against pests;
• the southern part of the trench should be sloped;

Such a bed for cucumbers will serve for 5-7 years and delight with a rich harvest of cucumbers.

1-box; 2-grid; 3- chopped branches and large wood waste; 4-newspapers and cardboard; 5- wood shavings and sawdust; 6-fresh garden waste; 7-semi-ripe autumn leaves; 8 - semi-rotted compost, covered with a mixture of mature compost with garden soil.

1. A bed on the surface of the earth:

• a bed is dug up (width -1 m, length - 3-5 m);
• weeds are removed;
• a bucket of manure or bird droppings is poured;
• 1-2 buckets of compost are poured;
• with heavy soil, 1-2 buckets of sand are poured;
• layers are leveled with a rake, but not dug up;
• warm water is poured from above;
• the bed is covered with a dark film on top and fixed with bricks or pipes.

1. A bed above the ground:

• a wooden box is placed on the ground. Can be replaced with a brick or slate box;
• box width - 1 m, length - 2 m;
• sand should be poured to the bottom;
• then a layer of wooden or rag waste;
• then a layer of organic waste: skins from vegetables and fruits, egg shells, etc.;
• a layer of leaves or straw;
• each layer is compacted and watered with liquid manure;
• the top layer is earth plus compost;

The temperature regime for cucumbers is very important point. It depends on temperature: seed convergence, normal development of seedlings, active fruiting of cucumbers. To avoid sudden temperature changes, you need to do warm bed

• the predecessors of cucumbers should be tomatoes, garlic, onions, cabbage;
• if the bed is built on the spot where cucumbers grew before, then it is better to remove the top layer of the earth and lay a new one;
• the beds are located from east to west, thus they will warm up better.

The temperature regime for cucumbers is a very important point. Depends on the air temperature:

• convergence of seeds;
• normal development of seedlings;
• active fruiting of cucumbers.

To avoid sudden changes in temperature, you need to make a warm bed with your own hands. It is better to do this in the fall, not in the spring. It will take a lot of effort to create a warm bed, but the result will be worth it.

You can also make a cucumber bed "on herbs".

Tools needed to make a warm cucumber bed:

• shovel, pitchfork;
• scythe (for mowing grass, as it will take a lot);
• peeling potatoes, food waste, moldy bread;
• branches, leaves of trees;
• boiling water;
• polyethylene film or other coating;
• bricks, boards, plastic bottles.

Technology for the implementation of beds for cucumbers on herbs

The cooked mixture of potato peels and moldy bread crusts should be scattered over the garden bed on top of the grass. It is important that the mixture is still hot, even simmering. Getting into the grass, it begins fermentation processes, microorganisms appear that are later useful for the growth of cucumbers.

1. The trench is digging. It is best that it be 1 m wide, and the length must be calculated so that the entire area is enough to plant the required number of cucumbers.
2. Next up is grass. She can be anyone. To do this, you need to go to a clearing, preferably to the river, and mow more grass. Freshly cut grass lies on the bottom of the trench and is trampled down tightly. It is better to trample down the laid grass with your feet. As a result, cucumbers will not fall through in the summer, because the bed will be dense. Otherwise, the plants will sag and grow in the hole. If the summer is rainy, then water will constantly flow into the pit and the cucumbers will rot.
3. A mixture of potato peels and moldy bread crusts is brewed.
4. The cooked mixture should be scattered over the bed over the grass. It is important that the mixture is still hot, even simmering. Getting into the grass, it begins fermentation processes, microorganisms appear that are later useful for the growth of cucumbers. The mold and starch contained in potato peels also give a reaction and clean the bed for further sowing cucumbers in it.
5. The bed is covered with earth, the very one that was dug out of the trench.
6. On top of the sprinkled earth, you need to pour another bucket of boiling water to fix the result.
7. It is not worth planting cucumbers in the garden right away. You need to wait a couple of days until everything settles down inside the soil. The grass will ferment with the soil and organic matter added to it. Such a bed no longer requires chemical fertilizers. It is completely ready for planting in terms of soil composition.
8. And finally, we cover the bed with a polyethylene cover.

It is better to fix the film around the edges plastic bottles filled with water so that the film does not move or fly under the influence of the wind.

The bed is ready. The only thing that is done in the course of cucumber growth is watering and harvesting. Otherwise, the bed is automatically protected from pests, diseases, weeds and filled with fertilizers. Very comfortably.

The principle of operation of a warm bed

1. The basis of bed insulation is branches that need to be thrown to the bottom of the trench.
2. During the process of decay, they begin to produce methane.
3. Rotting occurs due to the fact that boiling water is poured onto the branches, plus all kinds of food waste: these are skins, and shells, and much more. So with this composition, rotting is ensured in any case.
4. Further, methane generates heat. In a warm environment, all kinds of microorganisms multiply well.
5. Microorganisms oxidize methane and produce carbon dioxide. This same substance feeds the plant during growth and fruiting.

The bed will serve cucumbers not only in spring. And also many seasons, mostly with the right process of laying the trench, somewhere around 10 years. There will be enough nutrients for many seasons, and there will be no need to make a new trench every spring.

On such a warm bed in the spring it will be possible to plant not only cucumbers, but also:

• cauliflower;
• zucchini;
• pumpkin;
• salad;
• dill;
• asters;
• radish.

1. The cucumber bed should be in a calm place in the garden.
2. The place for the beds should not contain running water.
3. It is desirable that the place be warm.
4. It is necessary to pay attention to what were the predecessors in the garden at the place where the cucumbers are planned.
5. You can water cucumbers only with warm water, cold water will destroy plants, since cucumbers are a heat-loving plant.
6. It is better to plant seedlings or seeds at the end of April. Then the yield will be maximum. But in greenhouses and greenhouses, you can grow cucumbers until late autumn.
7. When leaves appear on the plant, when ascending, male shoots appear first, female ones, as a rule, are located on the crown and on lateral shoots. This allows you to control the reproduction process of the plant, preventing it from growing exclusively upwards, without giving a crop. With a breakthrough of lateral leaves, you can increase the yield if you properly care for the plant.

There are a lot of varieties of cucumbers now, this also applies to hybrids. It is impossible to say which types of them are the best. Some fit for early varieties, some - for later. Many are ideal for pickling, while others are ideal for eating fresh. So if cucumbers are planted for the first time, then it is better to try several varieties at once, so as not to miscalculate. And in the future, on your own experience, look, decide and draw conclusions which are better and which are worse. It all depends on the conditions for growing and caring for plants.

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Soil preparation for cucumbers for growing in a greenhouse or in greenhouses. Cucumber beds. « Dacha, garden and vegetable garden in the Urals

step, length and cross-section of the rafters of a hipped (hip) roof

Soil preparation for cucumbers for growing in a greenhouse or in greenhouses. Cucumber beds. Cucumbers give a high yield only on soils rich in organic matter. Cucumber roots are weak, they do not penetrate deeper than 20 cm, therefore they are extremely sensitive to soil fertility. The acidity of the soil for cucumbers should be close to neutral. In addition, the soil must have good air permeability, it must be sufficiently loose. As the main components for creating soil for cucumbers, soddy soil, sand, ash, organic fertilizers- manure, humus, bird droppings, well-decomposed peat, etc. Manure is a good organic fertilizer. The composition of manure includes nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium and other chemical elements. Decaying in the soil, manure enriches it with carbon dioxide. Manure improves physical properties soil, its structure. Heavy clay soils become looser. Sandy soils become more cohesive after manure is applied, retaining moisture and nutrients better. Fresh manure is brought into the beds in autumn for digging, and rotted manure - in autumn or spring. Manure is applied at the rate of 4 - 5 kg per square meter. Fresh manure can be used as biofuel. If a greenhouse or greenhouse is located where groundwater comes close to the surface, then bulk beds are made. But even if the groundwater is low enough, it is still better to grow cucumbers in the beds. To prepare the beds, it is better to use manure, but it can be replaced with compost from rotted garbage, sawdust, straw, peat. Mineral fertilizers must be added to the compost: 80 grams of simple or 40 grams of double superphosphate, 30 grams of urea, 30 grams of potassium sulfate or potassium salt are added to 2-3 10-liter buckets. It is better to apply fertilizer locally. Along the bed, in the place of the future row, they dig a ditch, lay organic fertilizers in a layer of 15-20 cm and cover with earth with a layer of 12-15 cm and cover with a black film. After 5-6 days, plants are planted. Cucumber beds with manure. Cucumber beds using manure are done as follows: they clean the earth to a depth of 40 - 45 cm, a width of 1 - 1.5 m (with deep ground water); a layer of straw or last year's grass 10-15 cm high is placed on the bottom; manure harvested in the fall is placed above the edges of the trench; covered with black foil. At the edges, a strapping is made of logs with a diameter of 10 - 12 cm, or boards, 4 - 5 cm thick. The height of the strapping depends on the height of the beds. If after 2 - 3 days the manure settles, add hot manure and sprinkle with lime - fluff 0.5 kg per 1.5 m or double the rate of ash - to prevent the appearance of toadstool fungi. Then they pour the earth with a layer of 20 - 25 cm and again cover with a film until the seedlings or seeds are planted. Cucumber beds using peat-dung compost. To prepare peat-manure compost for beds as follows. A layer of peat 10–15 cm thick is poured onto the earthen platform, then a layer of manure 15–20 cm thick, then again a layer of peat 60–70 cm thick. The height of the stack should be 1.2–1.4 m. Compost for beds is prepared in summer, and the next year, in the spring, it can be applied to the soil when digging the beds. Peat-manure compost is applied to the soil at the rate of 6-8 kg per meter. Cucumber beds using prefabricated compost. To prepare prefabricated compost, manure, peat, earth, fallen leaves, etc. are used. All components of prefabricated compost are piled up. Mineral fertilizers are added per cubic meter: 2 kg of superphosphate; 0.8 kg of potassium sulfate; 3 kg of ash or lime. Then pour water or slurry and mix well. Then the compost is stacked in a pile 1.5 - 1.6 meters high. During the summer, the compost is mixed and moistened 2-3 times. For the winter, the stacks are covered on all sides with peat, sawdust, dry leaves or straw with a layer 20–25 cm thick. Prefabricated compost is ready for use after 9–10 months. Compost is considered ready if it has turned into a well-decomposed dark homogeneous mass. Prefabricated compost is introduced into the soil when digging beds at the rate of 109 - 30 kg per square meter.

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Why the earth turns green in a greenhouse: clear answers and useful tips

Causes of soil color change

By itself, this trouble does not pose any threat to plants that grow in a greenhouse. But those reasons that caused it can cause significant damage to the future harvest and to the seedlings themselves. Therefore, as soon as the green soil was discovered, it is necessary to identify the cause and begin an intensive fight against it. There are four main reasons for the appearance of green soil: waterlogging, insufficient ventilation, excessive soil fertilization and increased soil acidity. Sometimes they can be combined with each other, and then the so-called root causes will be not one, but two or three, or even four.

As soon as such soil is discovered, it is necessary to immediately begin to act.

The green color is acquired by the soil due to the germination of either moss or algae in it. Both the first and the second feel great where there is an excess of moisture. The difference is that moss prefers places with poor lighting, while algae likes bright and (especially!) natural light. It is noticed that they do not multiply so actively and grow under the lamps. In addition, moss grows much more actively in places with acidic soil.

As soon as green soil is found, the following actions should be taken.

1. Significantly reduce watering or even stop it completely for a while.
2. Determine what exactly makes the earth green: moss or algae. If it is moss, then it is necessary to increase the access of light to the room, as they love dusk. If it is algae, then it is necessary to block their access to light. To do this, the earth is sprinkled with a layer of sand from above. In both cases, it is desirable to remove the infected layer.
3. Increase ventilation.
4. If these procedures did not help, go to the "heavy artillery".

It is strictly forbidden to use copper sulfate to destroy "greenery" on the soil.

Important! In no case, after revealing green soil due to moss or algae, copper sulfate should not be used to destroy them. He not only successfully copes with these unwanted guests, but also with beneficial microbes and microorganisms that help seedlings grow. After processing it, the land will become unsuitable for growing anything and will have to be completely replaced.

Soil mulching

The use of mulching helps to avoid excessive moisture. This method allows you to maintain the most favorable temperature for the plant around it, the mulch does not allow heat to escape too quickly and abruptly from the soil. Since moisture also lingers longer, more frequent and abundant watering becomes irrelevant. That is why covering plants with synthetic or organic materials gives good prevention against the appearance of moss or algae in the ground.

Mulching should be done in late spring or early summer. An earlier holding threatens that on the ground that has not warmed up, the covering material will simply simply begin to rot. Although, if the greenhouse is artificially heated, and you are sure that the soil optimum temperature, then this procedure can be carried out earlier than expected.

Try not to use synthetic mulch, as organic is much healthier.

You can not pour mulch close to the trunk of the plant; for better air circulation, you need to leave free space between them. Before you start laying out the mulch, you need to moisten the soil and walk well on it with a hoe or chopper. After processing with a chopper, you need to take a pitchfork and use them to make a lot of holes in the ground. This will help to make the soil more airy and plump, it will be easier for air to pass through it, in addition, loosening will prevent the formation of a hard crust on the surface of the soil, which does not allow air or water to pass through.

Since mulching is carried out in a greenhouse, you should not be afraid that mice or slugs will start up in the organic version. It is better to stop your choice on it, because organic mulch does not need to be removed for the winter. On the contrary, leave it. Gradually rotting, it will play the role of a natural fertilizer for plants.

To determine the level of acidity, of course, it is better to buy a special electronic meter or take a soil sample to chemical analysis. If none of these options are available, you can use old and proven methods that will show approximate results.

• Determine acidity

To carry out this method of analysis, the following components are needed: a plastic half-liter bottle, crushed chalk, a rubber fingertip, a sheet of newspaper. Take a bottle and pour about 5 tbsp. l. plain water. The water should not be hot or cold. Next, pour 2 tbsp into a bottle of water. l. soil you want to test. Wrap crushed chalk in the amount of one teaspoon in a small piece of paper, and then put this bundle in a bottle of water and earth. Squeeze the fingertip and put on the neck. Wrap a sheet of newspaper around the bottle and start shaking it. After five minutes of shaking, look at the fingertip: completely filled with air and became even - the soil is acidic, it did not straighten completely - slightly acidic, did not straighten at all - the soil is of normal acidity.

Ash can be successfully replaced with dolomite flour

The second method is much easier and for its implementation you need only a heel of blackcurrant leaves or, in extreme cases, bird cherry. We put these leaves in a glass, pour boiling water and leave to infuse. After the broth has cooled, we lower the soil into it to check. The broth should change color: the acquisition of a bluish tint indicates a neutral level of acidity, a greenish tint indicates slightly acidic soil, red indicates increased acidity.

• We are taking steps to reduce it.

On very acidic soil, quicklime or chalk should be scattered. Ash is suitable only for slightly acidic soil, and then in small quantities. Trying to reduce high levels of acidity with ash is fraught with consequences. The fact is that in this case it will take a lot of it, which will significantly change the structure of the soil. In addition, it contains not only potassium, but also other elements (magnesium, phosphorus and others), and their excessive amount will lead to “overfertilization”.

Replacing the topsoil

This is a cardinal decision, which is quite troublesome and can lead to the loss of young crops when they are still too small for a temporary transplant. It is worth starting it if no other methods have helped.

It is necessary to cultivate the land with quicklime. It should be extinguished only after it lies on the ground for some time.

First you need to remove the top layer of soil, its thickness should be at least 30 cm. After that, the cleaned area is treated with lime. After about a day, the lime is quenched, and everything is thoroughly whitened on top. After whitewashing, several days should pass before the new soil is brought in and laid out. Let the earth dry well and only after that you can put clean and uninfected soil on top.

Crop rotation

As already known, excessive fertilizer can cause the earth to turn green. Therefore, you need to be very careful with feeding. But what to do in the case when those crops are grown that simply need to receive a high amount of nutrients? In this case, crop rotation will help. It is aimed at the correct and uniform use of land resources.

So that the greenhouse does not stand idle whole year, you can perform crop rotation in the beds. On one bed - cucumbers, on the second - tomatoes, on the third - pepper, the fourth - empty. And then every year you change their places

There are three groups of crops, which are divided according to the level they require useful substances. The first includes those that need a large amount of fertilizer, the second - those who manage with an average amount, and the third - those that need a minimum amount. Within three years, representatives of these groups are planted alternately on the site, starting with the first and ending with the third. After that, one year break is made with enhanced soil fertilization. By adhering to this rule, it will be possible to forget about such a need as periodic soil replacement. This is due to the fact that proper crop rotation helps prevent the depletion of mineral and other nutrient reserves in the soil. In addition, fertilizer costs are significantly reduced.

Of course, it is quite difficult to deal with green soil, it is much easier to simply prevent this from happening. By adhering to the above rules, you can avoid the appearance of moss or algae in the greenhouse.

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The first step in building a greenhouse will be the construction of a foundation around the entire perimeter of the future greenhouse. When building the base, you can use both ready-made blocks and pouring strip foundation(500 x 200) by hand. Filling the strip base will take longer and will be quite laborious, but in the future such a foundation will be much more reliable than a prefabricated one.

Polycarbonate greenhouse size chart.

After the base is built, the construction of the frame can begin. The most popular form of greenhouse is the arched frame. For its construction, you should purchase a galvanized profile and assemble T-shaped elements. They will be attached to the foundation with self-tapping screws. In addition to the galvanized frame, you can build metal or use pipes.

The main disadvantage of this profile is its susceptibility to corrosion. You will need to regularly protect the profile with a primer or paint. To give additional stability and strength to the structure, the step of the transverse crate and the distance between the supports should be carefully calculated. The stiffer the rib of the greenhouse, the more likely it is that the greenhouse will withstand adverse weather conditions (heavy rain or wind). It is also necessary to consider the location of doors and vents.

Scheme of the device of a welded polycarbonate greenhouse.

When building a greenhouse 6 m long, you will need 4 sheets of cellular polycarbonate. They can be easily cut with circular saw or electric jigsaw. When cutting the material into pieces of the required size, one should take into account the expansion of the material at high temperatures, the possibility of plasticity of the sheet and the width of the piece when it is laid on the stiffeners. The finished strips of polycarbonate must be cleaned of chips at the edges and drill holes for mounting using an electric drill. The distance of each hole from the edge of the sheet should be about 4 cm.

Next, using self-tapping screws with thermal washers, you need to strengthen the prepared sheets by inserting them into special profile grooves. Thanks to thermal washers, polycarbonate will be securely and hermetically fastened to the frame. The distance between the fasteners is approximately 40 cm, and the mounting holes must be 2 mm larger than the foot of the thermal washer. Free space is done in order to avoid deformation of the material during thermal expansion. Having fixed the sheets on the frame, proceed to sealing the seams. To do this, a perforated tape is glued on the inside of the sheets, and aluminum on the outside. To protect the arched joints of polycarbonate, you should use a perforated tape, fixing a special profile over it.

Experts advise making several holes in the profile so that the condensate is discharged outside, and does not remain inside the greenhouse.

Table of characteristics of polycarbonate.

After building a polycarbonate greenhouse, you should take care of the soil on which cucumbers will be grown. The land in the greenhouse should be as disinfected as possible. To do this, you need to make a solution of bleach: 40 g of lime to insist for several hours in 12 liters of water (in autumn); or cultivate the land with boiling water with potassium permanganate (in the spring). In addition, it is necessary to process the greenhouse itself, the foundation and risers in order to exclude any sources of disease. Preventive work should also be carried out during the growth of cucumbers. To do this, you need to ventilate the greenhouse or greenhouse well, organizing full access for the bees inside the polycarbonate structure (for better pollination). Also in the greenhouse should be ventilation, but not through.

Draft has a bad effect on the cultivation of cucumbers and increases the amount of evaporated moisture from the surface of the earth. Carbon dioxide replenishment has a good effect on the development and appearance of female flowers. This can be achieved by using organic soil fertilizers.

horse peat

Riding "red" sphagnum peat, in contrast to soil mixtures, is characterized by high porosity (about 95%) and excellent moisture capacity (60 - 70%). It is relatively long resistant to microbiological decomposition, which means it can be used for a long time. Due to the long-fiber structure, high-moor peat is able to retain the mineral fertilizers introduced into it, while they are not washed out for a long time and remain in a form accessible to plants.

The long-fiber substrate based on high-moor peat is light in weight. It also has good thermal insulation properties, does not cake and does not shrink when growing plants.

The root system of crops planted in such a substrate easily wraps around the entire peat ball.

High-moor peat in its natural form has an acidic reaction (pH 2.8 - 3.6) and can be used to acidify the main soil. It is especially convenient to use it for plants that prefer to grow in an acidic substrate: rhododendrons, hydrangeas, heathers, some types of violets, strawberries, potatoes, sorrel. Under these crops, ventilated peat is applied at the rate of 1: 1 (for clay or sandy soil).

For rhododendrons, hydrangeas and azaleas, you can also add one part of the coniferous litter.

On the basis of high-moor peat, you can prepare a substrate and grow seedlings of vegetable and flower crops on it, or use it as the main soil in a greenhouse. To do this, add lime or dolomite flour on average 9-10 kg / m 3 and mineral fertilizers to well-ventilated and mixed peat (for complex mineral fertilizer, the dose is 1 - 2 kg / m 3). Then measure the pH (acidity). The optimum soil acidity for most vegetable plants and flowers ranges from 5.5 to 6.5.

The prepared substrate must be kept for 1.5 - 2 weeks, stirring occasionally. Then water it and plant the plants. During the growing season, cucumbers are watered with slurry diluted with water (1:10), and the rest of the plants are fed with compost and mineral fertilizers.

The advantage of this method of growing in a greenhouse is that the soil worked out during the season can be changed at no extra cost.

And as you know, changing the soil helps get rid of root infections accumulating over the season.

lowland peat

Lowland peat is mostly black. It is characterized by a high degree of decomposition, a high concentration of minerals, especially calcium, it is neutral or slightly acidic (pH 4.2 - 4.7). Lowland peat is rich in humic acids, but absorbs a large amount of water and gives it poorly (humidity over 70%). It is prone to caking, lumping and silting.

For ventilation, lowland peat is kept outdoors for several days. It is poured into heaps, which allows you to weather compounds harmful to plants.

It is better to use lowland peat in a mixture with compost and mineral fertilizers as a source of replenishment of mineral soil organic matter, as well as to lighten and aerate clay soils and bind and retain moisture in sandy soils.

ON A NOTE

Peat extraction is most often carried out directly from the surface of the earth. This method is called milling. Less commonly, peat is mined from quarries.

Low-lying or high-moor peat is distributed evenly on the surface of the earth and dug up together with the soil to a depth of 10 cm. The application rate is 20 - 30 l / m 2. For new plots of land, 50-60 l / m 2 must be applied.

When peat is introduced, the soil becomes optimal for plants - finely cloddy and granular (soil particles are stuck together into lumps with a diameter of several millimeters). Earth with such a structure contains a lot of air necessary for the breathing of the root system, it absorbs and retains water well, which creates conditions for a more complete and productive use of atmospheric and soil moisture by plants.

Lowland peat is great for lawn mulching in the spring. First, the grass is combed out and nitrogen fertilizers are applied, and then peat is scattered over it in a thin layer (3-5 mm is enough).

Peat mulching is also useful for sandy and clay soils and for keeping moisture at the roots when watering. It is usually held in the spring. Weed out all weeds, water, fertilize if necessary. Peat is distributed in a layer of 2 - 5 cm, without sprinkling it close to the stems. For large plants and when using a coarse peat fraction, the thickness of the mulch can be increased. In autumn, peat is embedded in the topsoil.

peat compost

Peat perfectly eliminates the smell of compost heaps, consisting of household waste. To do this, it is laid in a layer of 25 - 30 cm, household waste, slurry, etc. are drained from above, which are periodically covered with peat from above.

The width of the stack should be twice its height. For one weight part of peat, 2-3 parts of waste (slurry) are taken in summer, and half as much in winter. The mixture is periodically stirred. The term of maturation of compost depends on the time of laying - in spring and summer 2-4 months, in autumn and winter 6-12 months. In dry, hot weather, the composting material should be moistened.

If you breed poultry, rabbits and larger animals, then you will not find a better disinfecting bedding than peat.

Dry peat also perfectly stores vegetables, fruits and bulbs of flower crops.

And if you are the owner of a peaty swampy area - do not be upset! Grow what others are not given: hydrangeas, rhododendrons, heathers, azaleas, varietal cranberries, blueberries, lingonberries with huge fruits and a storehouse of essential amino acids, antioxidants and vitamins.

Well, was it worth being afraid of this truly beautiful raw material? If you are too lazy to bother with preparing peat for use or it is not available in your area, it can be purchased at stores and from enterprises specializing in the production of peat substrates. From all of the above, choose what is right for you!

ON A NOTE

For garden toilets, high-moor fluffy peat is best suited, which is able to absorb 400% of liquid waste and absorb odor at the same time.

Any peat - raised, lowland or transitional - can be used when sheltering plants for the winter. Fertilized and neutralized peat can cover the rhizomes of raspberries, roses, grapes, add strawberry bushes.

It is excellent to cover rhododendrons, azaleas, hydrangeas in its pure form with riding peat in a high hill, and wrap it with agrotextile on top from sunburn.

Shelter with peat is very convenient because in the spring you just need to slightly scatter the top layer of peat around the plants, freeing the trunks and branches. The same substrate will also serve as additional nutrition for plants in the spring.

Peat: both mulch and fertilizer

It is often advised to mulch seedlings with peat. But is peat also a fertilizer?

Both low-lying and high-moor peat are a mixture of semi-decayed plant remains. Indeed, it is an organic fertilizer. But do not expect that peat will instantly increase soil fertility. Peat has almost no effect on the saturation of the soil with nutrients. However, it greatly improves the structure of the soil - it makes it loose, so water and air penetrate the roots faster. It is useful to add peat to sandy soil, because, unlike sand, it perfectly retains moisture and nutrients.

Pay attention to what kind of peat is (see table).

Berry and vegetable crops can be grown on lowland peat. Horse peat is suitable only for growing blueberries or cranberries, or it can be added to compost, covering plants with it for the winter. Peat can be applied both in spring and autumn - for digging at the rate of 35-40 kg per 1 K8.M.

It is good to pour peat into the near-stem circles of trees, shrubs to a height of 5-6 cm. Such mulch is especially useful after prolonged rains, when a dense crust forms on the soil surface. In this case, peat also acts as a baking powder.

NOTE: High-moor peat must be neutralized before application: add 2-3 kg of lime or 3-4 kg of ash per 100 kg of peat.

		Plants- peat formers	Peculiarities
Horse	brown	Sphagnum mosses, cotton grass, wild rosemary, swamp sedge	Contains a large amount of organic matter and few nutrients available to plants; with high acidity
Lowland	brown	Sedges, hypnum mosses, reed, horsetail, meadowsweet, cinquefoil	Contains more nutrients and less organic matter than horseback; acidity (pH) - from 4.7 to 6.0

Colors Black Thickening Fabric Pot Plant Pot Container ...

Technology of growing cucumbers on sphagnum peat, methods of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, growing cucumbers on substrates, about cucumbers.

Growing on sphagnum peat

Slightly decomposed sphagnum peat is widely used in Latvia as a substitute for soil in greenhouses and greenhouses (Taranov, 1977). Such peat, neutralized and enriched with mineral fertilizers, serves as a good substrate for growing vegetable crops.
The sphagnum peat technology has a number of advantages:
the use of peat culture does not require specially equipped greenhouses, therefore there is no need to build concrete, watertight tanks, as is provided for hydroionic or gravel culture;
the work of workers is facilitated, its productivity is increased, since the density of peat is 3-5 times less than that of soil, there is no need for weeding;
peat harvesting costs about 1.5-2 times cheaper than soil or compost harvesting.
The disadvantage of the peat substrate is that it mineralizes relatively quickly (after 1-2 years), as a result of which its air capacity and moisture capacity decrease, and, consequently, the yield of cultivated crops, so it has to be changed.
As long-term experiments and industrial verification have shown, cultivation on sphagnum peat makes it possible on average by 10-20% compared to cultivation on soil. The best for these purposes is sphagnum (moss) peat from drained peat bogs of the raised type, which has the highest moisture capacity.
Harvest peat with a degree of decomposition of not more than 20%. It has a large water absorption capacity, mineralizes more slowly, and can be used longer in greenhouses.
Greenhouse plant "Riga" purchases (for 4.8 ha of winter greenhouses) milled sphagnum peat with a degree of decomposition of 5-10%, pH 3.5-4. Peat is delivered to the plant by the end of the growing season of vegetable crops in greenhouses - in September - December.
In greenhouses, where 4 rotations are cultivated during the year, peat with such intensive use quickly mineralizes, so it has to be changed annually. For this purpose, spent peat from greenhouses is selected by a bulldozer, and in return, fresh peat is imported by dump trucks.
Freshly harvested peat is limed, reducing the acidity to close to neutral (dolomite flour, lime tuff, burnt lime or chalk are added). Before liming all the peat, a trial liming is carried out. a small amount to establish the required doses of lime material.
The peat brought into the soil greenhouse is leveled with a layer of 25-30 cm, and then lime material is superficially applied according to the calculated norm. To mix peat with lime, an FS0-7 electromill is used, driving along the laid peat in two tracks.
The limed peat is poured onto the racks or the soil of the greenhouse with a layer of 20-22 cm. The optimum acidity is set in the range of pH 5.8-6.0, for cucumbers - 6-6.5. In the state farm "Riga" to neutralize sphagnum peat, which has a pH of 3.5-4, 8-11 kg of dolomite flour (CaO50%) per 1 m3 of peat is consumed. For better neutralization of peat, when mixed with lime, watering is used.
Sphagnum torus contains very few nutrients, about 1% of total nitrogen, 0.03% phosphorus, 0.05% potassium and 0.20% calcium of the total dry matter. At the same time, most of the nitrogen is in a form that is difficult for plants to access. Therefore, for the normal growth and development of plants cultivated on sphagnum peat, they contribute.
In the Latvian NIIZIESH (Taranov, 1977), research was carried out on the development of a technology for the production of vegetables on sphagnum peat with nutrient solutions of mineral fertilizers.
Compiled formula for complete fertilizer brand "U", which contains macro - and microelements in the following quantity (in%): nitrogen 7.5-7.8; phosphorus 2.6-2.8; potassium 13.0-13.5; magnesium 0.5-0.8; iron 0.15; copper 0.15; manganese 0.05; zinc 0.04; boron 0.02; molybdenum 0.005; cobalt 0.005.
For sphagnum peat, a single application of the specified fertilizer in dry or dissolved form is sufficient - for cucumbers and tomatoes, 3 kg per 1 m3 of peat.
Seedlings are grown in peat pots with a diameter of 10-12 cm at the same time as on the soil. After planting seedlings in a permanent place, vegetable crops are grown with the application of mineral fertilizer solutions (Table 48).
Photo (Table 48):

A nutrient solution for cucumbers or is applied 1-2 times a week, depending on the availability of nutrients in peat, the season and the condition of the plants.
In greenhouses, before planting or sowing vegetable crops in a permanent place, peat is first seasoned with dry mineral fertilizers (Table 49), and after the plants have rooted or sprouts appear, they are fertilized with nutrient solutions, adjusting their composition based on agrochemical analysis data.
Photo (Table 49):

The optimal concentrations of nutrients for and cucumbers on peat were determined. The best total salt concentration (in active ingredients) for cucumbers is 0.8 - 1 g, for tomatoes 1 -1.5 g per 1 liter of air-dry peat.
It has been empirically established that when growing vegetable crops on peat, it is sufficient to apply only mineral fertilizers. Otherwise, the agricultural technology of vegetable crops on sphagnum peat is the same as on the soil.
"Suburban vegetable growing" 1981 - Publishing house "Kolos" Pantielev Y. Kh.

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It is difficult to imagine a vegetable garden without cucumber beds, although this heat-loving vegetable can be very demanding on heat, regular watering and sprinkling, as well as on the quality of the soil. In order for the future harvest of cucumbers to please with abundance, it is necessary to prepare a place for cucumbers already in the fall. You should choose the sunniest place, well protected from the wind, remove weeds and dig the soil to a depth of 25-30 cm. You can ensure the best heating of the soil in the garden by placing it from east to west. If the soil structure does not correspond to favorable conditions for growing cucumbers, then fertilizers will be required.

Favorable soil structure for cucumbers

The hosts, whose garden plot located in the floodplain of the river, they can be proud of the rich harvest of this vegetable, without doing special soil preparation. Sandy and loamy fertile soil with a close occurrence of groundwater is what cucumbers need. There is only one drawback - the lack of potassium salt.

Lover of moisture - cucumber does not tolerate light sandy soils that are not able to hold it. But heavy land, where an excess of water is stored for a long time, is not for him. With the increased acidity of the soil, you will also have to fight with the help of liming.

Precursor cultures

When choosing a place for a cucumber bed, you need to pay attention to what crops grew there before. The best predecessors are onions, cabbage, potatoes and perennial herbs. A plot planted this season with tomatoes or garlic is suitable. If there are not so many good places for cucumbers and you have to plant them year after year on the same area, then the top layer of soil must be removed. In autumn, you can make a tall, warm bed of grass, tops of the crop harvested at this time, placing the coarsest waste on the bottom: sunflower, corn trunks, cut branches and tree leaves. Top stack up potato peelings, moldy bread and other food waste.

Many gardeners have adopted the method of planting cucumbers on a compost heap, which is decorated with boards knocked together from boards. The heat that cucumbers need so much is produced by rotting the lower layers of such a bed, and vegetables can be sown much earlier by covering them with a film. Since the branches are not able to rot in one season, it is possible to equip a place for cucumbers in the same place more than once, while replacing the top fertile layer of the earth.

Rules for fertilizing cucumbers

Both mineral and organic fertilizers must be applied to the top layer of soil (30 cm), where cucumbers will be planted. Their number depends on the existing soil structure. Potassium-phosphorus top dressing should be laid in the fall. Cucumbers need little nitrogen, but if necessary, it is introduced in the spring, since, unlike the first, it quickly decays. On average, each square meter of land requires:

Organics (humus, peat) - up to 7 kg;
- crushed limestone - 6 kg;
- potassium salt - 10–25 gr.;
- superphosphate - 50–60 gr.;
- ammonium sulphate - 17–25;
- ammonium nitrate - no more than 25 gr.