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How to make a hoist in the garage with your own hands, materials and tools. Hand hoist - how to feel like a titan? DIY hand hoist

The winch is one of the oldest devices that facilitate the movement of weights, invented by man much earlier than he knew the laws of physics. The principle of operation of the winch is based on the rule of the lever: by applying little effort to the handle, you can move and lift quite heavy objects. Winches and hoists are widely used on the farm for lifting building materials, dragging goods and even for plowing the land. Winches powered by manual or electric drive are also indispensable for off-road enthusiasts.

Buy a winch or make it yourself? Which winch design is best? The answers to these questions depend on how often you are going to use it, what loads to move. Manual winches require force but are not dependent on electrical power. An electric winch can move heavy loads without any effort on your part, but it must be connected to the mains or battery. Below are the designs of several winches, which you can do with your own hands, which winch to choose is up to you.

Winch from a cable and a piece of pipe

Option the simplest winch, which can be made literally from improvised materials and in a few minutes, is popular with motorists. This design is a cable rigidly fixed on a piece of pipe, put on the axle. The axle is driven into the ground or fixed in some other way. Any lever is slipped under the lower coil of the cable: a handle from a shovel, a pipe, a strong pole. By rotating the lever so that the cable is wound around the pipe, you can move a fairly heavy object, such as a stuck car. This device cannot be called a full-fledged winch, but it performs its functions.

Hand winches include any device that allows you to move loads and has a manual drive. The most common are drum-type winches: a cable is wound on a reel, and the reel is rotated using a handle through a reduction gear: a worm gear or a system of sprockets of various sizes. The larger the gear ratio, the less force is required to apply to the handle.

For efficient operation, a hand winch must be rigidly fixed to a stationary object; for this, mounting holes are made on the winch frame. The handle is connected to the shaft, on which a small asterisk is rigidly fixed. The coil is rigidly connected to a large sprocket, which has a clutch with a small one. The cable is attached at one end to the coil, a carabiner or hook is attached to the second end.

Do-it-yourself winch with manual or electric drive

If you have the skills to work with a welding machine, you can make a winch yourself from improvised materials.

You will need:

  • Rectangular tube for making the frame;
  • Pipe or finished shaft for the drum;
  • Sheet metal for drum discs, thickness 3 mm;
  • Studs with M10-M12 thread, 24 cm long - 6 pieces, nuts;
  • Tube with a diameter of Ø14 - 6 identical pieces of 20 cm;
  • Large and small sprockets and chain;
  • Hubs for attaching the drum to the shaft and for attaching the shaft to the frame;
  • Lever for manual drive, gasoline or electric motor powered by ~220 V mains or car battery;
  • Cable of the required length with a carabiner at the end;
  • Welding machine and electrodes;
  • Bulgarian with a cutting and grinding disc;
  • Paint and primer for metal;

Set of wrenches.

Winch manufacturing technology:

  1. According to the drawing, a grinder cuts a rectangular pipe 20x20 mm for the frame. All perpendicular joints are obtained by cutting blanks at an angle of 45 degrees.

  2. Lay out the blanks on a flat surface. The winch frame is welded using a welding machine pointwise at the junction of the workpieces. Check the perpendicularity of the corners and the conformity of the dimensions, after which the seams are completely boiled. Weld the platform from sheet metal with longitudinal grooves for mounting the drive motor. Remove scale and burrs with a grinding wheel grinder.

  3. The frame is sanded, coated with a primer for metal, and after drying - with paint or enamel in two layers.

  4. Start making the drum. Two circles of the same diameter are cut out of sheet metal - about 30 cm. In the center of each circle, a hole is drilled along the diameter of the shaft, six holes are also made at a distance of 7-8 cm from the center. Drill holes for fastening the hubs - 4 on each disk. Attach the hubs to the bolted connection. The drum disks are fastened with studs: each stud is fixed in one disk, a Ø14 tube is put on it, after which the second disk is put on the studs and tightened onto nuts and locknuts.

  5. The drum is mounted on a shaft. The shaft can be made from metal pipe of a suitable diameter or use a ready-made high-strength steel shaft from any mechanism. A large sprocket is fixed on the shaft on the outside of the drum - you can use an asterisk from a motorcycle gearbox, for example. Hubs are installed on the protruding parts of the shaft to fix the drum on the frame.

  6. Install the drum with the shaft on the frame, fixing them with external hubs and bolts. An electric or gasoline engine with a small sprocket rigidly fixed to the output shaft is installed on the site. They put on the chain and adjust its tension by moving the electric motor along the site in rectangular mounting grooves to the optimal position. The chain should not sag, but too much tension is undesirable - the wear of the sprockets will increase, and the chain may also break. You can check the tension of the chain by turning the drum with your hands - it should not restrain the rotation of the drum when the cable is unwound.

  7. A cable is wound around the drum, fixing its end on the shaft. The second end of the cable is equipped with a strong carabiner. For ease of movement, the winch is fixed to the frame with a wheel pair using a shank.

  8. The shank on the opposite side is designed to attach the winch to the car. In this case, it is recommended to close the drum with a protective cover that prevents dirt and precipitation from getting on the cable.

  9. If the drive is planned to be universal, then a handle can be mounted on the outside of the shaft. In this case, in the absence of fuel or electricity, it will be possible to use the winch manually.

The presented design of the winch is simple and reliable, and although it does not have the ability to switch the gear ratio, reverse and other auxiliary functions, it performs the task of moving heavy loads in a horizontal plane perfectly. If it is necessary to lift the load to a greater height, such a winch can be used in combination with a manual hoist or simply by throwing the cable over a solid support.

Thus, in today's lesson, we looked at creating manual winch with your own hands, subscribe to our group and stay up to date with all the important news!.

Movable and simpler, stationary crane beam in the garage with your own hands - quite doable if you have welding machine and two days of free time. For a professional auto repair shop, it is easier to buy ready-made lifting equipment.

If the need for a crane is rare, then it is cheaper to make a simple and reliable lift yourself. Such a homemade crane will easily lift the weight up to 800 kg, and for this repair work quite enough in the garage.

In order to make a frame for a small beam crane in a standard garage with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

  • I-beam (4 - 4.5 meters) - the required footage depends on the height of the garage;
  • pipe (diameter 10-12 cm), length 2.4 meters - 2 pieces;
  • one square pipe (10x10 cm);
  • corners (10x10);
  • manual hoist and telfer;
  • bolts (M16) with nuts.

If you plan to build a mobile crane beam, then you need four more rollers and a hoist.

The procedure for making a crane frame with your own hands:

  • we weld the legs of the crane - corners must be welded to the I-pipe on both sides;
  • the location of the corner is at an angle of 45 degrees. It turns out a kind of stiffeners that will firmly fix the rack, which accounts for the bulk of the load carried by the crane;
  • We weld two triangles, spacers on each crane stand.

  • if the crane is a mobile beam, then on both sides from the bottom, on each rack, a roller must be welded to the horizontal - ordinary rollers for metal containers are suitable, furniture ones will not withstand the weight;
  • from above, as a crossbar, we fix the pipe along which the lifting mechanism will move;
  • in the center of the pipe we weld an I-beam to fasten the roller along which the steel cable of the crane lifting mechanism will move.

  • above I-beam we weld a piece of a square pipe (to stiffen the frame) - 40 cm. The pipe should protrude at least 20 cm on both sides. It turns out that the side stand is located in the middle of the crossbar stiffening pipe;
  • in square pipe insert transverse pipe frame crossbars;
  • we drill through holes for the fastening bolts on both sides of the square holder and in the crossbar tube itself - we need a rigid reliable fixation on both sides of the vertical rack.

It turns out a U-shaped design of the crane frame, which is installed on rigid legs with struts, and a crossbar pipe is rigidly bolted to the top.

Installation of a lifting mechanism - manual or automatic

For mechanical lifting of loads on the frame, you need to install a manual hoist - a worm winch and a cable. How to fix the hoist on the frame:

  • on the side of the rack we install a manual worm winch (load capacity 800 kg, no less);
  • the steel cable moves on rollers.

This mechanism makes it easy to lift the engine or a car behind the hood on one side.

You can take the lifting mechanism and rollers from the elevator door as a drive. There rollers are reliable and durable.

An electric lift drive can also be installed on the manufactured base. A 300 - 500 W engine will be enough for simple repair work in the garage.

Such cranes are often used for the repair and reconstruction of old wooden houses. The construction of a log house will go faster if the logs are laid using a mobile homemade faucet. In this case, the width of the frame is along the length of the logs.

And you can make a simpler lift for the engine, on one support, watch the video.

A hoist is a device for lifting and lowering a load. In addition, such a mechanism can hold the load in a suspended position. The hoists can be manually or electrically driven. With an electric drive, an electric motor is responsible for the movement of the cables. The hand hoist uses a chain mechanism. Such a device can be gear or lever. In this article I will talk about the principles of operation of a manual hoist.

The most successful solution for lifting a load and working with it at height is a manual gear hoist. This mechanism is designed for lifting and lowering loads of various configurations. As the name of this device implies, the mechanism is set in motion manually. It does not require an energy source. A person who does not have great strength can work with a manual chain hoist.

The principle of operation of the chain hoist is not very complicated. This mechanism can be used as an independent hoist or as part of a crane-beam structure. Tal can be mobile, lever or stationary.

To work with a stationary hoist, the operator must be directly next to the load. Thanks to the swivel casing, the load can not only be raised and lowered, but also deployed for more convenient work with it.

The mobile chain hoist is attached to an I-beam profile, along which, using the carriage included in the hoist, you can move loads in two directions: vertical and horizontal. Such a hoist, which is mounted on a carriage, is called a hoist.

How the chain hoist works
The chain hoist consists of two blocks and a chain thrown between them. On the lower block there is a chain sprocket, and on the upper block there are two sprockets of different diameters. It is because of the difference in the diameters of the sprockets that a more efficient lifting of the load occurs.

In addition, one should not forget about the increase in the efficiency of the hoist due to the block system.

Chain Hoist Advantage:
Compactness;
Light weight;
Ease of use;
No energy consumption;
Durability;
Relatively low cost.

You can find out about chain hoists on the website stropu71.ru.

Here you can also buy cable slings and other lifting mechanisms and accessories for them. The Partner StroyService company has been supplying lifting and geodetic equipment for about ten years. In addition, the services of this company include the design and manufacture of slings and ropes of any size and type.

The mechanisms for moving hoists with a carrying capacity of 1, 2 and 3 tons include such elements as a drive and idle bogie, a traverse. By means of the last element, the lifting mechanism is fixed and connected to the movement unit.

Trolleys for the hoist are attached to the traverse using vertical type hinge pins. This design provides a trolley turn angle of 15-18 degrees.

Thanks to the hinged design (guiding rollers are provided on the vertical axes), the hoist with the movement mechanism freely passes along the paths with a minimum radius of curvature.

Due to the low-lying electric motor, the movement mechanism of the electric hoist easily overcomes the turnouts of small sizes.

The monorail movement mechanism of the electric hoist is offered in normal and reduced dimensions.

The movement mechanisms of hoists of normal size are equipped with one common sidewall on each side. An engine is mounted on one of the sides by means of a flange. The connection of the motor shaft with the primary gear is realized through the use of a reduction attachment.

The hoist with a reduced size movement mechanism is characterized by a different type of construction. Instead of two, there are 4 sidewalls (two driven and two leading).

Only 1 trolley is provided on devices with a small load capacity and a low lift height. The trolley is rigidly fixed to the body by means of a frame.

For hoists equipped with a pair of trolleys, 2 types of fastening are provided - rigid (frame) and articulated (special bolt).

Variations of fastening mechanisms for moving the electric hoist

The design of the lifting mechanism is adapted for fixing the unit for moving the load along the horizontal plane. Such mechanisms are being developed for monorail or double rail tracks. Fixtures can be of the following types:

  • Rigid (hinged) - for a movement mechanism of normal size. Polyspast 2/1 and 4/1. Figure 4A shows an electric hoist with one trolley.
  • Articulated (Fig. 4B I) - the lifting device is not rigidly fixed near the axle and running wheels.
  • Swinging or semi-articulated - the lifting mechanism swings. On fig. 4B shows an electric hoist with two trolleys.
  • Non-articulated 2/1 and 4/1. Designed for hoists with reduced dimensions of the movement mechanism. The lifting unit is attached to the side of the rail track. This design saves usable space.

  • Lifting mechanism with a moving unit along a two-rail track. Fig 6.

Figure 4 shows a diagram of the movement mechanism, which includes an electric motor (2), a gearbox (3), a driving unit (4), a driven unit (5).

Hanging hoist in the garage is used as a lifting device. The equipment helps to move heavy objects and it is more convenient to carry out car repairs. Armed with the necessary components, it is possible to assemble the hoist with your own hands.

The lifting hoist, which is also referred to as a hoist, can be manual or electrically powered for automated use. According to the technical characteristics, the equipment is a mechanism for lifting and moving various goods, including auto parts.

It is possible to place a mobile cart in any premises, regardless of free space and ceiling height. Depending on the type of construction, the load capacity can reach 10 tons. Standard hoist capable of lifting loads up to 12 m. The design consists of the following elements:

  • chain hoist, consisting of several blocks interconnected;
  • cylindrical coaxial gearbox;
  • disc braking system;
  • output shaft;
  • hook hanger.

Where is used

The lifting device is used to move loads with different dimensions and weights. These could be items household appliances, metal structures and automotive parts. AT industrial premises the equipment is used to lift loads and stack them on the upper shelves.

Manual hoist finds wide application during repairs and construction works when there is a need to lift tools and heavy materials.

Varieties of hoist designs

There are several types of designs that differ in installation method, design features, control option and others. technical specifications. Choosing suitable option equipment for the garage, it is necessary to take into account the individual needs and parameters of the room.

Manual

Hand hoists are used to lift objects to a small height. The carrying capacity of manual equipment varies from 1 to 8 tons. The traction force on the lifting mechanism is 30-65 kgf, which provides a speed of 0.3 to 0.1 m / min. The mass of the structure depends on the material and additional components and ranges from 50 to 400 kg.

Gear manual

Chain hoists with a gear mechanism are used to perform installation work within the garage or in an open space. The equipment is controlled at the point of cargo fixation. Gear models are equipped with a hanging hook, they are easy to install and operate. Design features gear hoists allow them to be used as independent equipment or as a lifting element for cranes.

Lever

The manually operated lever hoist is equipped with a suspension hook and can be attached to support beams or wire rope. The manual principle of operation ensures independence from the presence of electricity. The design provides for a locking mechanism for fixing objects in a suspended state.

Worm

Worm hoists, by analogy with other varieties, are used for lifting and lowering loads. When picking additional elements worm hoists can move objects along an I-profile monorail track. You can hang a stationary hoist on a hook manually or make a complete version connected to a mobile cart.

How to make a homemade hand hoist: step by step instructions

By independently making a manual hoist, it is enough to follow step by step instructions. Equipment can be crafted by doing the following:

  1. Weld the crane legs to the I-pipe.
  2. Position the metal corners at 45 degrees to create stiffeners that secure the stand. The bulk of the load being lifted falls on this rack, therefore, for additional reliability, spacers must be welded to it.
  3. If the hoist is mobile, rollers must be welded on each rack.
  4. On the ceiling of the garage, fix the pipe along which the lifting mechanism will move.
  5. Weld an I-beam in the center of the pipe to fix the roller mechanism.
  6. Insert the crossbar of the frame into the pipe.
  7. Drill through holes on both sides of the holder and fix the lifting mechanism.

Tools and materials

To build a hoist, you must first prepare a set of tools and accessories. In particular, to create a hoist you will need:

  • an I-beam with a length of about 4-4.5 m (the exact length depends on the height of the ceiling in the garage);
  • a square pipe with dimensions of 10x10 cm, 2 pipes with a diameter of 10-12 cm and a length of 2.5 m;
  • Bulgarian;
  • metal corners 10x10 cm;
  • M16 bolts with nuts;
  • lifting mechanism.

If you plan to install a mobile hoist, you will additionally need to use 4 rollers. Accessories are used to move the trolley.

Mounting Nodes

One of the important stages in the construction of a mobile structure is the installation of nodes. First you need to drill holes in the racks through which a rod with threaded ends will be pulled. Washers are attached to the base of the rod and nuts are screwed to limit the divergence of the racks. Then a chain is fixed on each side in the middle of the pole.

In order for the winch to move freely, the chain must sag slightly. A block with a cable is installed on the chain, passing along the middle rack and fixed from the bottom.

Activation and performance test

Before each launch and operation of the hoist, it is recommended to check the performance of the main elements. The following components are subject to verification:

  1. Chain. Since the chain is responsible for holding the object at a height, it is important to check the load capacity. Periodic maintenance involves cleaning the chain of dirt and lubricating with grease or similar materials.
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Homemade winch (hoist, hoist). How to make a lifting mechanism for a garage, workshop, construction site.
Many home craftsmen would like to have some kind of lifting mechanism in their garage or workshop, such as a hoist, hoists or winch. Of course, you can buy them ready-made, but they are usually not very cheap - several thousand rubles. And they don't go on sale very often. Car rescue lever winches available in almost any store cannot be used to lift loads. Because their stoppers are made using a ratchet mechanism. And it only works well in one direction. Lifting such a winch is easy. But lowering it smoothly is problematic. When making hoists or a winch on their own, the master is faced with the task of where to get a powerful reliable gearbox (with a gear ratio of at least 1:20 - 50) and always with a self-braking effect. As a rule, these are powerful worm gears and they do not often fall into the hands of the master.

Meanwhile, almost everyone can make a homemade winch or hoist, and as they say, from improvised materials. Threaded studs up to 2 meters long are available for sale. And it can serve as an excellent gearbox for a homemade lifting mechanism.

The device of such a winch is clear from the sketches. The principle of operation of the winch is simple. If you rotate the threaded stud itself, and do not allow the nut on this stud to scroll, then the nut will move along the stud. The force during this movement is much greater than is required to rotate the pin (all work on the same principle). screw jacks, the increase in force there reaches 20-30 times).


The ends of the stud are fixed in bearings, which, in turn, are installed in the bearings. A stud nut is a rectangular metal plate to which conventional nuts are welded. The plate prevents the nuts from turning. A cable is also attached to the plate. The cable is passed through one of the supports and thrown over the block. At the other end of the cable there is a lifting hook or a sling system (this depends on the purpose of the lifting winch).

The stud drive is easiest to do manually. To do this, a pulley or gear is fixed at one of its ends. (you can, for example, even use a bicycle). A strong cord or chain is thrown over a pulley or gear in an endless loop. If you pull on either side of the cord, the stud will rotate and the nut will move along the stud. Accordingly, there will be a cable behind it, and the load will either fall or rise. The self-braking of the mechanism is absolute, no force on the nut will make the stud rotate. Most likely the whole thread will break.

Of course, you can also make an electric drive using any reversible electric motor with a power of 200-500 watts. It is convenient to use, for example, some inexpensive electric drill with a rotation direction switch. Now there are many such drills on the market. The electric drive can be made both directly and through an additional pulley or flexible shaft.

Such a homemade winch can lift a weight of several hundred kilograms. In most cases, this is enough for household needs. The length of the stud, or rather the ability to move the nut along it, determines the height of the lift (in the simplest version of this home-made hoist). If you take a hairpin 2 meters long, then this height will be approximately 170-180 cm, which in most cases is more than enough for a home workshop or garage. However, the lifting height is easy and can be increased by simple tricks.

The caliper (base) for such a winch can be made of durable dry wooden beam or thick board. Although of course it is better to use a metal profile or channel. All connections are made with the help of reconciliation or bolts. It all depends on the purpose and capabilities of the master. It is also easy to organize the movement of this hoist under the ceiling. For example, with the help of some kind of T-beam, located in the center of the workshop. And install the caliper itself on the beam so that it can rotate around its center. Then almost any point of the garage or workshop will be available. A similar result can, of course, be achieved with the help of various blocks, it would be possible to fix it on something. Of course, the floor beams of the structure must also be designed for additional load.

On the basis of such home-made winches, you can also make a home-made crane. This will require at least two of these winches. It is most convenient to place them in the crane boom. One of the winches will lift the boom itself (change its angle of inclination), and the second will lift the load itself. Of course, do not forget about the counterweight.

The simplicity and affordability of such a homemade winch opens up a fairly wide scope for its use in a home workshop, garage or construction site.

Konstantin Timoshenko