Installation 

Do-it-yourself tile for country paths. Do-it-yourself paving slabs: all the secrets of making. How much does it cost to make paving slabs at home

Forms for making tiles with your own hands, which ones to choose?

Sometimes it happens that ideas lie on the surface, and we simply do not notice them. So it is in this case. When wondering how to make a tile with your own hands, the first thing that comes to mind is to buy ready-made forms. But it is not necessary to do this either.

Now a lot of products in stores are sold in such transparent plastic containers. These are fruits, and various frozen semi-finished products, as well as a variety of confectionery products - cakes, pies, puffs. These forms are suitable for making tiles yourself as well as possible. They are durable and can withstand several cycles of concrete tile casting. By the way, I used in the form of molds for making tiles, containers of marmalade worms - there are such sweets, many probably know - I bought them for my grandchildren more than once.

The very first store where I turned for help in finding these “forms” supplied me with such a quantity that it was enough to make about 10 square meters tiles in 2 sittings, after which he broke only one such “home-made form” and then because of his own carelessness. Moreover, not only did they not take the money, but they also said thank you and expressed a desire to come again.

My neighbor in garden plot looking at my work went even further. He got a bag of colored and transparent plastic pellets, which are used to make plastic bottles, and adds them in different proportions to the concrete solution. The tile is varied and beautiful. He paved a path in the garden with such tiles with his own hands (he laid it in the center) and along the edges he laid ordinary gray tiles without granules (also home-made).

For forms for homemade tiles, the requirements are also the most common - strength and the required amount.

I advise you to choose forms that are not crispy, but soft to the touch, the material resembles silicone. Also, on my own behalf, I can advise you not to choose completely outlandish forms - design by design and unusualness by unusualness, but it will be difficult for a novice master to lay such tiles with his own hands.

In order to better dock the tiles together, select shapes with smooth edges.

That’s why I chose the molds from under the gummy worms, because they have an angle of almost 90 degrees and it’s a pleasure to lay the tiles, and garbage doesn’t fall into the joints between the tiles, and therefore it’s also very easy to sweep the paths from homemade tiles.

Using the same method, it is easy to make not only tiles, but also borders to limit them to a section of a path, or a yard. Forms for home-made concrete curbs will also not be difficult to pick up.

How to make concrete paving slabs with your own hands - step by step instructions:

  1. Mix cement and sand in proportions of one to three. Cement for the manufacture of tile mortar, take at least brand 500. (More on making concrete with your own hands).
  2. Gradually add water to the solution while stirring it. The consistency of the solution should be pasty - do not slip off the trowel.
  3. Lubricate the inside surfaces of the tile molds with oil - this will make it easier for you to remove the finished tile when it dries.
  4. Now fill the tile mold with concrete mortar. Do this with pressure so that the form is filled evenly and densely. With smoothing the back side of the tile, you can not be zealous - more irregularities "at the bottom" - the adhesion will be better during the subsequent laying of the tile.
  5. Now you can still just in case shake the form to be sure that the concrete has dispersed over it. Everything, now you can put the future homemade tiles to dry. I recommend putting it on drying under a canopy, that is, avoid direct sunlight.
  6. After a week, you can remove the tile from the mold and put it to dry under the same canopy. The second stage of drying the tiles can take up to a month for our homemade tiles to acquire the necessary strength and durability. I recommend laying it out to dry on sheets of stainless steel - it will be easier to remove, especially if you put it still raw.

Do-it-yourself path from concrete forms

The path, stylized as if paved with stones or cobblestones, has become nowhere easier to make with your own hands. True, it will be more difficult to get forms for such a track than in the first case, when we talked about making a simple concrete one with our own hands. paving slabs.

The formwork for pouring paths in the garden can be made ordinary, rectangular.

Make a height of six or seven centimeters, this will be enough. You can also make a simple form measuring 50 x 50 cm, and it can make 4 tiles at once.

The process of making tiles is simple - just lay the mold in the place that you plan to ennoble and decorate. It is better, of course, to prepare the base in advance, remove bumps and grass. If you want to get a monolithic coating (for example, pour a solid path), then pour this place with a thin layer of concrete and only then use the tile mold. Then fill the molds with the solution. Do not forget to compact the solution tightly in the molds, then level the solution with a trowel or trowel. Remove the mold and repeat the whole process in a new location. You can fill the gaps between such a home-made pseudo tile with more liquid concrete - the construction of the path will be stronger, the seams between the tiles can be aligned with a brick joint - it just fit in width for me.

We use metal formwork to build a concrete path in the garden

  1. Building a concrete path with your own hands using metal formwork is not difficult even for a novice builder.
  2. We remove the soil in the place where the garden path is planned.
  3. We press hoops into the ground
  4. We take out the soil from the middle of each hoop and fill the hoop with the same earth from the outside
  5. We tamp and pour water
  6. We pour sand into this finished formwork (the height of the sand layer should be 5-7 centimeters - depending on the evenness of the path and the amount of land removed).
  7. We also level the poured sand with a trowel and tamp it down, add a little water - just to slightly moisten it.
  8. All this is filled with a layer of concrete. I recommend a concrete solution of this composition - for 1 part of cement and 1 part of water - 4 parts of sand. Less sand is possible - there is no cement - otherwise you will get not a concrete, but the most ordinary dirt track.
  9. Too large stones can be further strengthened if they are additionally reinforced with any small metal scraps, pieces of wire or metal mesh. I add reinforcement without fail, it’s still more reliable.

If there is a need or desire, dyes can be added to the concrete solution to give the walkway the look of natural stone. Even more similar to natural stone concrete will be given artificial and decorative cracks and dents, protrusions and depressions. They are easy to make even with one trowel. The edges of the stones can begin to be hemmed the next morning. Until the concrete solution has gained strength, the paths must be well shed with water. So that the concrete garden path does not crack, I do not recommend doing work on its construction on especially hot days - you will not have time to water it.

It is also possible to decorate a garden path from artificial concrete stones if immediately after casting, until the concrete has seized to lay out various patterns of tiles, glass and small pebbles in still wet concrete.

How to make flower girls out of concrete.

By the way, from concrete and its remnants (even those that remained after the casting of paving slabs) for the garden, you can make not only home-made tiles, but also such concrete flower girls that are deliberately made somewhat rough in appearance to give additional zest to paving slab paths.

You will need:

  1. fine-grained concrete
  2. trowel
  3. wooden stick
  4. 4 plastic buckets of different sizes
  5. weights (e.g. large stones)
  6. sunflower oil or vaseline,
  7. brush

So, in order to decorate your garden with flower girls cast from concrete with your own hands, grease the buckets with sunflower oil so that later the finished flower girls can be easily removed from the mold: a large bucket is inside, a small one is outside.

Mix the concrete according to the manufacturer's instructions, stir with a trowel or a clean wooden stick. Pour the mass into a large bucket, without topping up a few centimeters to the brim so that the concrete does not overflow over the edges when you place the small bucket inside. Insert a small bucket into a large bucket, pressing the concrete mass, and put a load in it so that it does not move. After 2 days, the concrete will harden and it will be possible to carefully remove the buckets.

Every person who has his private house, knows about cement and concrete production technology. Based on this, the manufacture of paving slabs at home will not be an innovation for him.

Since there are several types of manufacturing, the vibration casting technique will be the most profitable and simplest for self-manufacturing. In this case, the solution is placed in molds and compacted on a special vibrating table.

Technology of home production of paving slabs

The production technology of paving slabs is very simple. But you need to know some points when planning production process. To carry out the manufacturing process, you need to know 2 main areas:.

Scheme vibropress

They have some differences from each other. Subsequently, this is reflected in the prepared products.

The technology for making paving slabs at home will require the purchase of an expensive unit, namely: a heat chamber and a vibration process.

The solution with water is poured into the mold, then compacted using vibration and pressure. Upon completion of these procedures, the workpiece is sent to drying chamber. The fortress is obtained due to quite high humidity and temperature, which is great for laying in places with a powerful load.

Making paving slabs with your own hands helps to compact the mixture under vibration, that is, it spreads evenly in shape and is compacted. There is a movement of the form for drying on the racks.

The workpiece is dried in molds

After two days, the finished tile is pulled out.

Vibrocasting at home

Vibrocasting is suitable for the production of paving slabs at home. To do this, you need to purchase inexpensive equipment and tools. As for the vibrating table, it is not difficult to build it yourself. To start making tiles, you must follow these steps:

  • mold preparation;
  • mixing the solution;
  • molding in a vibrating table;
  • aging and drying in molds;
  • stripping tiles.

Paving slabs, which were made using vibration technology, are great for garden paths. If a we are talking about car parking, it is best to use pressed products.

Pressed tiles are best used for laying in car dealerships

Equipment and tools for the manufacture of paving slabs

At the beginning of work, it is necessary to prepare equipment and tools. If a person can make a vibrating table on their own, then a vibropressing machine must be bought ready-made.

Then you need to choose a shape for the tile. According to the standard, it is a square or in the form of a brick. For this type, it is necessary to make formwork from plywood or wood. If we consider the production of paving slabs at home with more complex options, then it is better to use polyurethane or silicone molds. With their help, tiles are obtained, as in a store. It is also possible to make tiles similar to natural stone.

Material for manufacturing

The basis of any technology is concrete. This requires the following components:

  • water;
  • cement;
  • crushed stone;
  • river sand;
  • slaked lime or other plasticizer;
  • additives and colors.

To end up with a homogeneous mass, you need to use additional tools: a concrete mixer or a construction mixer. The first tool is designed for large volumes.

Before preparing concrete, you need to prepare the dye. It is necessary for the manufacture of colored tiles. If ordinary gray paving slabs are made, then the color scheme does not need to be used.

Manufacturing instructions

The walls of the concrete mixer must be slightly damp, so inside it is rinsed with water, and then it is drained. The proportion of water and cement to obtain the required solution must be accurate, otherwise the concrete product will be fragile.

Proportions for the manufacture of paving slabs

Do-it-yourself paving slab production requires mixing half-wet concrete. This is done as follows: water must be 30% less than cement. For example, 2 buckets of water are poured into 3 buckets of cement.

Water is first added to the concrete mixer, and then the required amount of cement. After that, the components must be mixed and brought to a homogeneous mass. Screening is added, then a ready-made solution is obtained. After thorough mixing, slaked lime, previously well mixed, is poured in, as well as a dye, if necessary.

It is necessary to mix until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Mixing the solution is easy to do on your own by hand. This requires good physical preparation, as well as a margin of time.

So that subsequently cleaning and stripping does not bring additional fuss and does not take time, it is necessary to lubricate the form with a special lubricant.

Be sure to lubricate the mold for further easy extraction

The layer thickness must not be too large, as the product will deteriorate due to bubbles. For the successful implementation of the process, it is better to use aerosol lubricants.

A faster and better do-it-yourself tile is carried out if a person uses the help of another assistant. It will help to quickly bring the necessary tool or thing.

As for the dye, it must be dissolved in advance in hot water.

It is possible to make paving slabs at home without a vibrating table, only in this case the quality will not work.

After the molds are filled with the solution on the vibrating table, they must be removed and placed on the rack. Freezing occurs within 2 days. When heat sets in, molds must be moistened with a spray gun to prevent the concrete from setting prematurely.

The process is completed by such a stage as stripping.

It comes three days after pouring. Accuracy must be present here, because the tile has not yet completely dried out and has not gained sufficient strength.

To make the product as strong as possible, it is recommended to dip the molds in hot water with a temperature of 50 to 70 degrees. After 5 minutes, the paving slab is removed, but before that it is necessary to knock on it with a rubber mallet.

After the process is completed, the tile should dry and lie for another 7-8 days. This is what shrink wrap is for.

The nuances of do-it-yourself paving stones tinting

To paint a tile, it is necessary to use organic or mineral pigments. Artificial colors have a fairly high coloring ability, resistance to temperature extremes. With the help of natural pigments, you can make muted natural tones.

There are 2 color options:

  • dilution of the dye in the wet mass;
  • painting on the finished product.

Painting paving slabs

The first method will require a lot of money. The price of dry dyes, which have a water-repellent property, is quite high. And in order for the color to exceed all expectations, you will need to add 7% of the total mass of concrete.

The second way is more difficult. The quality of painting depends only on time. To make it easier for yourself, it is recommended to use a spray gun. In this option, there is one drawback - uniform coloring will be very difficult to obtain.

The form is filled with colored concrete, but only up to half. Above is ordinary cement. The time between fillings should not exceed 20 minutes.

Advantages of paving slabs

At this point, paving slabs are in great demand. It has some advantages:

  • vapor permeability and moisture permeability of the coating;
  • the implementation of the construction of tracks by a more complex method independently;
  • suitability of repair;
  • aesthetics. It appears thanks to all sorts of color schemes and forms. If desired, the craftsmen can lay out an ornament or some kind of pattern on the path in the garden or cottage.

Schemes for laying paving slabs

Decorative tiles with stone

Paving stones with stones in the landscape style of a private house looks quite interesting. The method of making paving slabs at home is quite simple. To build country paths attractive will help the usual composition of the solution. It is often used in combination with natural materials.

To carry out the manufacture of decorative tiles with stone, it is necessary to prepare forms of various sizes. Boards will help to make large squares, and plastic containers will work great for miniature tiles. River stones must be thoroughly cleaned and all the necessary components must be prepared to prepare the mixture.

It is very important to observe the ratio, mixing sand with concrete, water and dye. After preparing the solution, you should take up the form. It is required to lay out a horizontal platform from the boards, put polyethylene under the formwork.

Thoroughly grease the mold itself with machine oil. The mixture should be evenly distributed over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe mold, for this a trowel is useful. Then the stones are laid out, they must be selected by color and size, and then placed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe mixture. Upon completion, the stones must be added to the solution.

Forms are covered with cellophane and dried for 4 days. Workpieces must be sprinkled with water 2 times a day. At that moment, when the tile begins to move away from the formwork, it should be pulled out and dried out without a form.

Making paving slabs with your own hands is quite an exciting process. With the help of precise guidance, each person can easily make high-quality and original tiles. She will serve long time in the garden or in the yard. If a person is unsure that the product will be durable during the manufacturing process, then the topic should be studied in more detail.

Video: DIY paving slabs

The main factors that have made tile paving so popular are the transparency of the laying technology and the ease of repairing the coating if necessary. In this case, for the arrangement of a garden or footpath, heavy construction equipment, trucks and a large number of workers. Landscaping of the backyard territory can be done independently, and with a large amount of work it will be enough to invite 1-2 friends.

The only reason that makes you think about this method of paving from a negative point of view is the high cost of the material in retail chains. However, there is an option available to significantly reduce costs. Tiles can be made at home and then its cost will be significantly lower. Therefore, this article will address the question of how to make paving slabs at home.

factory technology

AT industrial scale the production of vibrocast, vibropressed and clinker tiles for paving sidewalks is carried out. At the same time, depending on the manufacturing technology, the quality of products varies greatly.

The technology is quite simple to use. It is based on the fact that a cement-based mortar is poured into curly molds and compacted on a special surface by vibration.

vibropress.

Such products are distinguished by rich color shades and are sold at a low price. However, the strength and frost resistance of such paving slabs is an order of magnitude lower than that of other types.

vibropressed tiles made on special equipment that compacts the concrete mixture high pressure. Such paving stones are stronger, but also more expensive due to the use of a press and increased power consumption.

The most best tile- clinker. Clinker production of paving slabs occurs by firing specially prepared clay in a kiln at a very high temperature. The final product turns out to be very durable, frost-resistant and beautiful, while not yielding in terms of durability even to hard natural stone.

But the high energy consumption for the manufacture of paving slabs and the need to use expensive industrial equipment raises the cost of this material several times.

Equipment and inventory for work

In the conditions of household plots, of course, there is no special industrial equipment, and therefore the technology for manufacturing paving slabs at home is based on vibratory compaction of concrete. To complete the work, you will need the following equipment and inventory:

  • small;
  • wide capacity for acceptance of finished concrete;
  • sieve for sifting sand;
  • or other flat vibrating surface;
  • molds for pouring concrete mix;
  • rubber mallet;
  • shovels, buckets, spatulas.

In addition, a strong stable rack is needed for drying tile blanks in molds.

Necessary materials

From building materials would need:

  • cement brand PC500 or PC400;
  • washed or river sand, preferably medium fraction;
  • gravel fraction no more than 10 mm;
  • natural or mineral pigment;
  • mold lubricant.

In the event that the gravel is dirty or contains a lot of dust, then it must be washed, as impurities can adversely affect the quality of products and their color shade.

Work site organization

First of all, it is necessary to correctly install the concrete mixer, vibrating table and rack for placing forms with concrete. These are the largest objects and all actions will take place near them.

The concrete mixer, as the main equipment for the production of paving slabs, should stand in such a way that there is enough space for placing a sand pile and gravel near it.

You should also leave room for buckets of water or a watering hose. The best place for the vibrating table is located in a straight line between the concrete mixer and the rack for storing molds with concrete.

The rack can stand indoors or outdoors, but in a place where it will be reliably protected from direct sunlight. Cement can be stored near the rack.

Forms for making

Manufacturers offer molds of various configurations and sizes, made from different materials. You can buy standard square or rectangular, multi-element or monoblock shapes. These can be cups for the manufacture of each product separately and for the simultaneous pouring of several plates.

If desired, molding equipment will be easy. In this case, you can get exclusive products that no one else has. For this use various materials— from wood and polystyrene to metal and plaster.

It is important to remember that tiles made by vibrocasting have a reduced strength and frost resistance. So an important factor when choosing forms, their depth determines the thickness of the future product.

When homemade its thickness must be at least 40 mm for footpaths and sidewalks and at least 60 mm for driveways or parking lots passenger car. The movement of freight transport on such a tile is highly undesirable.

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Manufacturing instructions

The production of paving slabs by vibrocasting is carried out in several stages, which include:

  1. preparation of concrete mix;
  2. preparation of forms before laying concrete;
  3. pouring concrete mixture into molds and vibrating table operation;
  4. hardening period of concrete;
  5. dismantling and storage of finished paving stones.

Each of the stages has its own technological features, some of which may have multiple versions.

concrete mix requirements

Certain requirements are imposed on materials for the manufacture of concrete. Sand must be sieved through a sieve to remove particles of clay, earth and other undesirable impurities that reduce the quality of concrete. The gravel must be clean. Otherwise, it must be rinsed with water. The use of PC300 cement is unacceptable even when it is added in an increased proportion.

In order to increase the strength of the tile, synthetic fibers (fiberglass) can be added to the concrete composition. Expensive industrial plasticizers can be replaced with liquid detergent. The applied pigment dyes must be resistant to ultraviolet radiation and are intended for outdoor use.


Fiberglass.

The ideal ratio of the components of the mixture for the manufacture of tiles according to the calculations of specialists is:

  • cement PC500 - 21% or 30 kg;
  • gravel or granite screenings - 23% or 32 kg;
  • sifted sand - 56% or 75 kg;
  • pigment dye - no more than 7% by weight of concrete or 700 g;
  • industrial plasticizer C-3 - 0.7% by weight of the mixture or 50 g;
  • water - 5.5% by weight of concrete or 8 liters;
  • fiberglass up to 0.05% by weight of concrete or 60 g.

Since it is almost impossible to maintain such exact proportions at home, the solution is usually prepared based on the following calculation:

  • 1 part PC500 cement, 1.5 parts gravel, 3 parts sand;
  • 1 part PC400 cement, 1 part gravel, 2.5 parts sand.

Liquid is added as a plasticizer. detergent at the rate of 1 glass per batch. Water is added gradually until the mixture becomes homogeneous, and the density will resemble thick sour cream.

If a dry pigment dye is used in the work, then it must first be dissolved in water, and then added to concrete in an amount of not more than 1.2 liters per batch.

Initially, dry components are poured into the mixing equipment for the production of paving stones, and after they have been mixed, water is gradually added. In this case, it is recommended that you first fill in half the required sand and gravel, and then pour out the cement, mix and add everything else. In this case, the cement will not stick to the walls of the mixer.


Solution mixing mode.

Mixing of concrete mixture with added water should not be less than 15 minutes. The finished mixture is poured into a trough or other similar container, and from there it is transported or loaded directly into the molds.


Form lubrication.

Placement of ready-mixed concrete in molds

The types of forms and their possible choice or DIY were discussed above. Therefore, the process of their filling and compaction on the vibrating table will be described directly here.

In order for the finished tiles to be removed more easily after the mold has hardened, it is necessary to carry out pre-treatment. To do this, they are lubricated from the inside with light machine or vegetable oil. In extreme cases, it is allowed to use a thick soapy solution.

If financial resources allow, then in stores you can purchase a special composition for lubrication. It will provide easier demolding, but will require additional costs.

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For quick filling of forms, it is recommended to install a low table near the vibrating table. It will be possible to put forms on it and fill it there. This will reduce the amount of grout spilled onto the working vibrating surface.

The filling process can be done in three ways:

  1. Pre-painted throughout the volume, the concrete mixture is poured into molds in one go, the surface is leveled with a spatula and placed on a vibrating table.
  2. Initially, a quarter of the volume is filled with a colored solution, and the rest of the volume is filled with ordinary gray concrete.
  3. The colored layer occupies approximately 15-20% of the volume, and a reinforcing mesh or pieces of wire are placed between the colored and gray layers to increase the strength of the products and better connect the layers.

The first option will be technologically the simplest, but a concrete mixture with a large amount of dye may have reduced strength.

In the second case, clean concrete will act as a solid base, resulting in a stronger tile. In addition, the cost of purchasing the dye is reduced. However, it will be necessary to simultaneously prepare two different solutions - colored and gray, which complicates the production technology.

The third option allows you to get the strongest and beautiful tiles, but it is even more difficult to implement. Ultimately, the choice of technology in this case depends only on you.

Tile coloring methods

To obtain color shades on the surface of paving slabs, four different methods are used:

  1. The tiles are made of colored concrete throughout;
  2. Products are made two-layer, where the top layer of the tile is made from a colored colored solution, and the rest of the mass is made from an ordinary gray concrete mixture;
  3. Before concrete is poured into molds, their inner surface is coated with a water-based coloring agent;
  4. Surface.

The most stable color in the manufacture of paving slabs can be obtained by using the first two methods, but they are quite costly from a financial point of view. The fourth option allows you to save money, but the paint from the surface will be easily erased, as a result of which it will have to be tinted periodically.


Forms filled with concrete mix on a vibrating table.

Placement of completed molds on a vibrating platform

After the required number of forms is filled, they are placed on the surface of the vibrating table. In this case, it is allowed to put the forms one on top of the other, but not more than in 2 rows.

Vibration processing of paving slabs allows you to displace all the air and compact the concrete mixture with high quality. If during the vibration process a strong subsidence of the solution occurs, then you need to add it to the bowls that are not completely filled and level the surface with a spatula.

The strength and frost resistance of products, and, hence, their durability, directly depend on the quality of compaction of the concrete mix. Therefore, the process of vibration processing must continue for the required time. The exact duration depends on the oscillation frequency and engine power and is determined experimentally (on average it is 40-120 seconds).


Homemade vibrating table.

The process of curing concrete

After processing on a vibrating table, the completed forms must be transferred to a storage rack. Shelves of the rack must withstand a large weight load, and the rack itself must also stand in the shade, excluding direct sunlight on the surface.

The process of primary setting of concrete during the manufacture of paving slabs takes 12-18 hours, but complete hardening will end only after 72-96 hours, depending on temperature and humidity. Only after that you can proceed to the removal of products from the molds and their storage.

Forming and further storage of finished products


Disbandment.

The process of removing finished products from the molds after the concrete has set is called demoulding. It must be done carefully, trying not to damage the plates and to preserve the possibility of reusing the molds.

If the inner surfaces of the molds were machined before pouring the concrete, then demoulding will not be so difficult, especially in the case of soft models.

If complications arise, treatment of the outer side of the molds with hot water can be recommended. Plastic or silicone materials will expand from the hot water and loosen the tile. During demoulding, it is allowed to tap the molds and tiles with a rubber mallet.

The removed tiles are stored on pallets, observing the dressing between the individual products when laying. The height of the stack on the pallet should not exceed 1.2 meters. This condition allows you to protect the tiles of the lower rows from destruction due to the weight load.

Conclusion

As you can see, it is quite possible to make paving slabs with your own hands, since this technological process is not very complicated and does not require special knowledge from the performer.


Cost of independent production tiles.

True, for successful work, you need to have such equipment for the production of paving slabs as a concrete mixer and a vibrating table, but they can be bought, rented or made independently. The most important thing for obtaining a quality result is the exact observance of technology and the use of high-quality raw materials.

The idea of ​​producing material for paths and playgrounds at home is very promising. For a private house and for a summer residence, this is always a hot topic, so it is possible that it will become your source of income. The manufacturing technology of paving slabs at home differs from the factory one primarily in scale.

Production of paving slabs at home

Any owner of a private house, one way or another, faced with the manufacture of concrete and is familiar with cement firsthand. In this case, making paving slabs with your own hands will not seem like something completely new. At home, vibration casting technology is most often used. concrete mix is poured into molds and compacted on a special vibrating table. Such production involves the use of plasticizers as part of the pouring solution.

Equipment

For home production, a simplified set of tools and equipment is used. You will need:

  • Vibrating table for concrete compaction;
  • Forms;
  • Rubber mallet;
  • Master OK;
  • Concrete mixer;
  • Auxiliary items: buckets, shovels, etc.

Craftsmen tend to build vibration tables on their own, since there are plenty of schemes on the Internet.

Expendable materials

To prepare a concrete mortar for tiles, the following materials are needed:

  • High-quality cement from 400 brands, the best way M500;
  • River sand, which must first be sifted;
  • Crushed stone (gravel or screenings) with a diameter of not more than 10 mm;
  • Plasticizers and other improvers;
  • Pigments (for colored tiles);
  • Clean water from the tap;
  • Special lubricants for moulds.

Step by step description of home production

Form preparation

Before pouring the solution into the molds, they must be properly prepared, otherwise further stripping and cleaning will be extremely difficult. To do this, the molds are covered from the inside with a thin layer of special lubricant. At this step, the main thing is not to overdo it with the thickness of the layer, otherwise you can get products damaged by bubbles.

Petroleum products are not suitable for mold lubrication.

To facilitate the process, aerosol lubricants are sold that are convenient for use at home.

Mortar recipe

The secret of the quality of tiles lies in knowing the correct recipe for the preparation of the mixture, as well as in observing the technology of its production. Properly selected ratio of components will give a strong and durable tile. Colored tiles require the introduction of dyes, but they reduce strength finished product. Strengthen the strength will help the addition of reinforcing fibers.

Plasticizers are used to improve the quality of concrete, namely its plasticity, which is important when pouring. Its amount should not exceed 0.5% by weight of all other dry ingredients. Pigment additives are introduced in an amount of 2% of the total dry mass, having previously been dissolved in water until completely homogeneous. The recipe for mortar for pouring molds at home assumes a ratio of cement to sand at a rate of 1: 3.

Not less than important point production - the amount of water that determines the consistency of the solution ready for pouring. Excessive water will damage the strength of the paving slabs. Usually take 2 buckets of water for 3 buckets of cement.

Preparatory work

Before you start kneading, take care not to delay the introduction of the components during kneading. It is best to do the work with a helper who will promptly deliver the necessary ingredients.

On buckets, you immediately need to make notes on sand, gravel and cement for one batch. Plasticizers and dyes are pre-dissolved in hot water. Along the way, such work cannot be done, because there should be no lumps and precipitation left in them.

batch

Mixing the solution requires the correct order of introduction of the components with constant stirring. For a one-time batch, a conventional puncher with a mixer nozzle is suitable, but for large volumes of production, a small concrete mixer is indispensable.

Kneading instructions:

  • First in order, water is poured into the mixer, minus the one in which plasticizers and dyes are diluted, because it is also a liquid;
  • The second component is smoothly introduced cement with continuous operation of the concrete mixer;
  • In turn, sand and crushed stone are introduced into the solution;
  • When a plastic mass is obtained, plasticizers and pigments dissolved in water are added;
  • Stirring is carried out for a few more minutes until a homogeneous porridge-like mass is obtained.

The consistency of the solution should be plastic, but not too liquid. The portion taken should hold well, not flow or break into pieces.

Pouring and vibrating table

By and large, at home, you can do without a vibrating table, but in this case you will not be able to get high-quality products. The fact is that even a very plastic mass is not able to tightly fill the forms and voids cannot be avoided. For home tracks, this will do, but for sale you need products of a higher class.

The casting molds are installed on a vibrating table and filled with a solution to a height of no more than 4 cm. In the production of colored tiles, two compositions are often prepared: colored and regular. Fill the forms in layers, which allows you to get a more durable tile. In some cases, tiles are reinforced not with crushed stone, but metal mesh placed between concrete layers.

The work of the vibrating table is started, which will compact the mass in about 5 minutes. Understanding the readiness and absence of voids inside the mass gives the appearance of white foam on the surface of the concrete mix.

solidification

After the forms are qualitatively filled on the vibrating table, they are removed and moved to special racks. Exposure should take place for about 2 days without access to direct sunlight. In no case should the concrete dry out prematurely, so in the heat it must be periodically moistened by spraying water.

Stripping

The last step for the production of paving slabs is stripping, which is done 2-3 days after pouring. It must be carried out carefully, since the tile is damp and has not gained maximum strength. Using mold release agents beforehand makes this process easier, so don't skimp and skip this step. To obtain durable products, before demoulding, you need to lower the molds into water with a temperature of 50 to 70 degrees. A few minutes of such warming up and you can get the tile, having previously tapped the molds with a rubber mallet. Warming up the molds significantly increases the number of production cycles. In addition, such a measure will help minimize marriage.

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Ideal for paving paths and playgrounds. Such a coating does not gas like asphalt, does not crack when the soil heaves and does not collect puddles on itself.

Another important advantage: it will significantly reduce the cost of construction work.

There are two ways to make paving slabs:

  1. vibrocompression. It includes two stages: molding the mixture in a vibropress under the influence of vibration and pressure and drying in a heat chamber under conditions of elevated temperature and humidity. Tiles made using this method are highly durable and suitable for use in places with a significant load;
  2. vibrocasting. The compaction of the solution is carried out only due to vibration, for which the forms are set to. Drying - in natural conditions.

Equipment for vibrocompression is expensive and therefore this method is not suitable for a home workshop. The vibrating table can be made independently, so that adjustment in artisanal production conditions by vibration casting will not require serious costs.

Vibro-cast tiles are suitable for areas with light foot traffic. But for the device of the automobile platform, its strength is no longer enough.

Necessary tools and materials

For production you will need:

  • concrete mixer. In extreme cases, you can replace it with a powerful drill with a mixer nozzle;
  • vibrating table. How to make it yourself - is described below;
  • . Sold in stores, but you can;
  • building level: they control the horizontality of the vibrating table and racks for drying. When skewed, the tile will turn out uneven;
  • shovel, trowel, bucket;
  • brush.

Materials used:

  1. cement. Sulfate-resistant (with a reduced content of 3-calcium aluminates) Portland cement grade not lower than M400 is used. Suitable PTSII / A-Sh-400. Preferred Color- white: gray looks messy when painted. Production date is important: 3-month cement even with proper storage loses 20% strength, 6-month - 30%, annual - 40%;
  2. filler: large - granite screenings, pebbles or slag 3 - 5 mm in size; fine - sifted clean river or quarry sand with fineness modulus. The purity of the sand is checked by trying to make a lump out of it: if it works, the material contains a lot of clay inclusions;
  3. pure water. In terms of quality, in most cases, ordinary tap water is suitable;
  4. plasticizer. Makes concrete durable, moisture and wear resistant. Good feedback Received "Superplasticizer S-3" from tile manufacturers. Also used are the compositions of the brands "Component", Master Silk, Plastimax F.

The function of reinforcement is performed by:

  • crushed fiberglass;
  • polypropylene fiber Micronix 12 mm;
  • basalt fiber MicronixBazalt 12 mm.

To give tiles desired color dyes are used

  • mineral: give bright color, resistant to chemical attack and temperature extremes;
  • organic: give soft, natural shades.

Paving slabs are painted in two ways:

  1. surface. Dry dye is rubbed into the surface of still wet modules or painted with a solution using an airbrush. The method gives a bright color, but is labor intensive. In addition, as abrasion and chipping, the tile loses color;
  2. volume. The dye is added to the solution during mixing, in the amount of 7% by weight of dry substances, which, due to the high cost, is associated with costs.

In order to save money, the modules are poured in two layers: first, a third or a half - with colored concrete, then the rest - colorless. The maximum admissible time interval between fillings of layers - 20 min.

Production cycle

The tile manufacturing process includes the following steps:

  • preparation of the solution in strict accordance with the recipe;
  • laying in forms with vibration compaction (performed on a vibrating table);
  • hardening in forms for about 2 days;
  • stripping (removal of castings from molds);
  • holding until complete curing.

Preparation of molds for the production of vibrocast products

Forms are purchased in the store (the most durable) or made independently.

Homemade are of two types:

  1. simple. Represent a 4-coal or 6-coal frame made of wooden bars or metal profiles. The form is left without a bottom - just install it on a rubber mat covered with plastic wrap;
  2. curly.

Figured forms are made of plastic materials in the following way:

  • check the horizontal level of the table for work;
  • knock together formwork from wooden bars;
  • a sample tile is laid in it: it is purchased or made of wood / gypsum;
  • gypsum, molten plastic, polyurethane or silicone are poured into the formwork.

Plastic material will repeat the contours and relief of the sample tile.

The smallest details reproduce silicone and polyurethane. But on the other hand, plastic surpasses them in resource (more modules can be made from one form). Before pouring concrete, the form is lubricated from the inside to prevent the solution from sticking.

With an excess of fat in the lubricant, shells will appear in the tile, with a lack, the solution will stick to the mold. Therefore, it is important to use either special formulations (Emulsol, Lirossin), or prepare the lubricant yourself according to a proven recipe.

For example, for a plastic mold, the product is prepared as follows:

  • 50 g of engine oil is poured into 1.5 liters of water;
  • shake the mixture long and thoroughly until it becomes an emulsion.

Mixing concrete composition

The ingredients for the solution are taken in such quantities:

  • cement: 21%;
  • granite screening: 23%;
  • sand: 56%;
  • plasticizer: 0.5-0.7% by weight of dry matter (m.s.v.);
  • dye: 2 to 7% w.m. (the more, the brighter and more durable the color will turn out);
  • fiberglass: 0.05% w.m.s.;
  • water: 5.5% w.m. or 70% of the volume of cement.

As you can see, the solution is prepared semi-dry: only 2 buckets of water are poured into 3 buckets of cement. This is a feature of vibrolaying: the solution in the form will even seem liquid.

Cooking process:

  1. dissolve the plasticizer in hot water (70-80 0 C). Approximate ratio: 1 liter per 200 g of powder. It is important to stir thoroughly, because the plasticizer is fed little by little;
  2. dye is dissolved in water with a temperature of 40-50 0 C. Approximate ratio: 3 liters per 800 g of powder. When calculating the required amount of water, one should take into account the liquid contained in the dye and plasticizer solutions;
  3. lubricate the concrete mixer by twisting the liquid in it for several minutes cement mortar(then it is poured).

After that, the components are loaded into a working concrete mixer in the following sequence:

  • a fifth of water;
  • cement and sand;
  • coarse aggregate (when cement in water forms an emulsion or, in everyday language, milk);
  • solutions of plasticizer and dye;
  • the remaining water;
  • fiberglass.

Do not overmix with stirring as the water evaporates. Mix for 1 to 3 minutes.

In a small concrete mixer (less than 0.5 m 3), the ingredients can be fed as follows:

  • sand and half gravel: interfere with 30 - 40 seconds;
  • cement: all together interfere for another 1 minute;
  • the entire volume of water provided for by the recipe, including solutions of plasticizer and dye;

Then the remaining crushed stone and fiber are added, and the last mixing is performed for 1 minute.

Shaping, curing and stripping

Forms are filled with a solution and installed on a working vibrating table. Approximate time of vibrolaying - 5 min. The solution level drops due to compaction, so it has to be topped up.

When white foam appears, the vibrating table is turned off: this indicates the release of all air from the solution, further vibro-laying will lead to its delamination. Forms are installed on a rack and covered with polyethylene.

After a day or two, the castings are removed (formwork stripping): having laid a cover, they are knocked out of the mold with light blows of a rubber hammer. If they come out badly, molds for 5 minutes. immersed in water with a temperature of 60-70 0 C.

Forms before the next use are washed with saline (it is better to soak them in it for a while), prepared at the rate of 30 g of salt per 1 liter of water.

Making a vibrating table with your own hands

As a vibrating table, you can use a washing machine - an automatic machine turned on in the spin mode.

A simple version of the table for 1-2 forms is done like this:

  • lay a car tire horizontally;
  • top - steel sheet up to 10 mm thick;
  • a jigsaw is screwed to the sheet.

A more complex version is made in the form of a table from a sheet of the same thickness and a rolled profile:

  1. frame is cooked. The legs are strengthened with crossbars, bosses are welded on top. A shelf is mounted at the bottom of the frame;
  2. springs are put on the bosses;
  3. glasses are welded at the points of contact of the table top with spring supports. Finished construction freely installed on the elastic elements;
  4. an engine with an eccentric is mounted on the lower shelf of the frame. A unit with a power of 500-900 W is suitable, for example, IV-98E or IV-99E.

You can use the engine from washing machine. It is not designed for mass production, but when replacing bushings and standard bearings with reinforced type bearings, the resource will increase significantly.

What can ruin the finished product?

In order not to spoil the tile, it is important to observe the following conditions:
  1. the rack for storing castings before stripping is set in a strictly horizontal position according to the level;
  2. castings are protected from direct sunlight;
  3. rapid evaporation of moisture is excluded: castings are covered with polyethylene, there are no drafts in the storage area. Water reacts with cement, therefore, with its lack, concrete loses its strength. In hot weather, castings are periodically sprayed with water.

Under these conditions and subject to the recipe, home-made tiles are not inferior in strength to factory ones.

Related videos

Step by step instructions on how to make paving slabs at home:

Having mastered the production of paving slabs at home, you can not only save money, but also earn money: among the residents of the district, there will certainly be those who want to purchase this popular building material.

The process, apparently, does not differ in complexity, therefore the basis of success is not so much skills and qualifications, but hard work and perseverance.