Waterproofing of balconies and loggias: step by step execution of work. How to properly waterproof a balcony How to properly waterproof a loggia

09.05.2020

It is often important to waterproof the balcony despite the fact that it is not glazed. Otherwise, excess moisture may be absorbed into the floor, due to which the plate may be partially damaged over time (there is also a high risk of mold). It is especially difficult to waterproof an open balcony, because. its structures are constantly exposed to moisture. You can deal with internal waterproofing on your own, but for external it is recommended to invite professionals.

Options available

The list of the waterproofing process depends on the selected waterproofing option and the characteristics of the balcony. In total, there are two options for carrying out work and using materials:

Painting.

The easiest way to waterproof the balcony yourself. Most often used to create a moisture-repellent layer from the inside of the loggia. In this case, waterproofing is used bituminous mastics which must be diluted before use. Apply to the surface inside the covered balcony with a paint brush.

However, their level of protection is not enough for exterior finish. Mastics are divided into two types - powder and coating. The former are sold in the form of a powder of quartz sand, cement, etc., diluted with water or special solutions. The second type is applied in the likeness of ordinary paint, it is necessary to warm up a little before use.

Roll.

Application process is different increased complexity and requires special knowledge, therefore it is not recommended to do the roll laying of the waterproofing layer with your own hands. Most effective for exterior decoration. Bituminous rolls of a certain size are laid on the surface and cauterized to it using a special device. Thanks to "gluing" with the concrete surface, the moisture-proof layer serves the longest and most efficiently. However, it is difficult to install any exterior finishes on top of the bituminous sheet, so this method is most often used for waterproofing the floor on an open balcony and roofs.

penetrating.

They are the most resistant to moisture, they are mainly applied in the crevices between the wall and the window frame, in cracks, seams.

Training

In addition to purchasing all the necessary mastics, it is necessary to completely clean the balcony. If any sheathing was installed on the floor, walls, ceiling, then before starting work it will need to be completely dismantled, leaving bare concrete. Then you need to check the quality of the concrete slabs themselves. If any defects are found on them (cracks, mold, irregularities, etc.), then they must be completely eliminated by covering them with plaster or removing damaged areas (in the case of irregularities). After completion of work, dust and dirt are completely removed, and concrete can also be treated with special antiseptics.

If the walls, floor and ceiling are rotten to such an extent that rusty sections of the reinforcement are visible, then they should be completely cleaned of rust as much as possible, and then apply special protective compounds for metals. Too large cracks will have to be expanded and filled with a screed. Small cracks can be filled with ordinary plaster. All large irregularities are also removed with a spatula and cavities are smeared.

If the concrete slab is damaged too badly, it will have to be replaced completely, but this is most often found only in old and dilapidated houses.

Provided that all preparatory procedures have been carried out, mastics and sheets will lie more tightly and evenly on the surface, thereby making the coating more durable and of high quality. High-quality waterproofing of the floor of an open balcony is especially relevant if it is located above the bay window of the neighbors below. Nobody wants to flood them.

Waterproofing process

The application of the moisture-repellent layer may differ depending on the surface on which it is applied. Also, the stages of preparatory work may differ slightly.

Floor insulation

If the balcony is located above the dwelling, then its floor must be waterproofed, because. condensation accumulates on it, which can collect on the floor due to temperature differences and slowly destroy it.

Waterproofing the floor on an open balcony may involve the installation of a special floor screed with a slope of about 1-2% - this is required for the free flow of excess moisture. It is desirable to reinforce it metal mesh(especially if you plan to install insulation, decorative tiles, etc.). The screed must be divided into seams, which are of the following types:

Temperature - is formed when laying the pressure layer.
Wall mounted. Located at the junction balcony slab to the front, most suitable for small loggias.

Waterproofing an open balcony under tiles requires that the resulting seams be about half (maybe a little more or less) filled with moisture-proof mastic. Then insulation is added to the remaining space (if necessary) or it is simply poured with concrete, then tiles are laid on top.

You can also go the easy way - either bituminous sheets are laid on the cleaned and repaired concrete slab, or mastic is applied. In the first case, it is advisable to entrust the matter to a specialist, because. the sheets may need to be “burned” to the floor. In the second, you need to go to the walls 15-20 cm up.

ceiling insulation

The ceiling on an open-type balcony can also be waterproofed by painting it with mastic. If necessary, an additional film is applied so that the mastic does not flow from the ceiling.

But more often, ordinary mastic is applied to the ceiling, which has time to soak into the concrete. Application takes place in four stages:

The ceiling is cleaned and slightly moistened.
The first thin layer of mastic is applied.
After it dries, it needs to be slightly moistened.
The second layer is applied. After that, it is desirable to moisten the ceiling 2-3 times a day for 2-3 days.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5auk96rpDA Video can "t be loaded: Resitrix / Resitrix balcony waterproofing (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5auk96rpDA)

September 9, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high tech, computer technology, programming.

Few people know that the waterproofing of a balcony is one of the important and mandatory stages of its construction or decoration. For example, my son has country house it is located above the bay window. And if I had not taken appropriate measures in time, rain and melt water would have penetrated into the living quarters, because the tightness of the concrete slab is not enough to retain moisture.

Three days ago I was waterproofing an open balcony in my client's private home and this was a great opportunity to prepare the appropriate material for you. The instructions below describe how to do everything quickly and efficiently.

The need for waterproofing

To begin with, I want to say a few words about how important waterproofing is. wooden balcony at the cottage or concrete loggia in a city apartment. If you neglect this stage of construction and decoration, in the near future you risk not only losing the exquisite decoration of this room, but also encountering leaks in the rooms.

I can offhand name only the most negative consequences of the operation of balconies and loggias (especially open ones) without a waterproofing layer:

damage decorative material, which you used to equip the auxiliary room;
corrosion of metal parts of the balcony and reinforcement of the balcony slab;
the appearance of fungi, mold and other microorganisms (this is especially dangerous if the balcony is wooden).

The worst option of all possible is a violation of the integrity of the supporting structures of the balcony. They can rot or rust to the point where the structure is dangerous to use.

It is very important to waterproof the balcony when insulating it with mineral wool heat insulators. Their technical characteristics greatly deteriorate when wet, so the layer of insulating wool must be carefully protected from the penetration of atmospheric moisture.

I will immediately note another important point. If waterproofing an open balcony under tiles or similar flooring, it is necessary to take measures so that rain or melt water that gets inside is removed through specially equipped drain holes. Otherwise, during a heavy rain or spring snowmelt, it will quickly turn into a pool.

Waterproofing materials

I hope I have convinced you that it is necessary to protect a balcony or loggia from water. Now let's move on to the story of what materials can be used for this. Description of all specifications each waterproofer is not the purpose of this article, so I will go through briefly:

Cast. These are polymer compositions that are heated to a fluid state and applied to the treated surfaces (most often floors). I consider excellent efficiency as a plus (the frozen polymer is absolutely hermetic and has no seams). Minus - the risk of cracks during deformation of the treated plate. As an example, I can name Drizoro Maxelastic Pur.

Painting. Materials based on bituminous resins, which, after hardening, form a homogeneous, hermetic and elastic membrane that does not allow water to pass through building structures. I often use bituminous mastics to process balconies from the inside with my own hands. They are applied with a brush, roller or spatula and work very effectively. An example of such a material is TechnoNIKOL mastic.

Deep penetration. Waterproofing compounds (for example, Penetron), which, after being applied to wooden or mineral surfaces, penetrate into the material and form directional crystals there that retain water, but do not prevent air infiltration. This is very effective method waterproofing, if the high price doesn't stop you.

Okleyechnaya. Rolled materials are used, which are rolled out on the surfaces to be treated and fixed on them with glue or bitumen.

The disadvantage of this method is the need to seal the joints. And the installation technology itself is quite complicated. But the cost of waterproofing membranes is low.

In my practice I use combinations various materials. For example, if inside the waterproofing of the balcony floor can be done with coating mastic, then, for example, it is better to protect the roof with pasting membranes. And treat hard-to-reach places with penetrating impregnations.

Balcony waterproofing technology

Well, now I will go directly to the description of the process of waterproofing the balcony. Let me remind you that in my case we are talking about a balcony with a concrete floor slab and a railing, which is located on the 5th floor of a standard high-rise building in the city.

Surface preparation

I always start with careful surface preparation. To begin with, the concrete floor and part of the walls must be cleaned of old finishing materials (if any), mortar residues, oil and grease stains, dust and other contaminants that can adversely affect the adhesive properties of the floor.

For this purpose, I use a hard brush or vacuum cleaner, which quickly and efficiently removes dust from the mineral surface.

Then I treat the surfaces with a primer (), which improves the adhesive properties of the balcony floor and helps reduce the consumption of waterproofing composition. I always prime surfaces twice with intermediate drying of the layers (which takes about two hours).

During the inspection of the concrete floor slab, I found several defects in the base. If it also happened to you, listen to how to repair:

First of all, you need to remove all the pieces of concrete that themselves peel off and fall off. In these places, I additionally worked with a perforator chisel so that later the base shifts would not violate the integrity of the waterproofing layer.
I did not touch two very small cracks with a chisel, but washed down a little with a grinder with a cutting disc. Then I filled in all the defects cement mortar and carefully leveled with a spatula (naturally, before that, dust and debris were removed from them with a vacuum cleaner).

In one place, the slab broke off so that a piece of reinforcing bar became visible. I cleaned it with sandpaper from traces of corrosion, after which I smeared the surface with an anti-corrosion compound.

Then, from above, I also sealed this recess with a bar with cement mortar. But you can also use special repair compounds for surfaces (for example, Neocret).

Having finished with the repair, I took an elastic tape (Lipex K-2) and glued it on the joints of the horizontal surface of the floor and the vertical surfaces of the walls (the so-called movable joints). This sealing tape will allow you to maintain the integrity of the waterproof membrane with possible movements of the balcony base.

After completing all the preparatory work, you should get a surface that meets the following requirements:

The maximum allowable difference in the height of the treated surface should not exceed 2 mm.
There should be no sharp protrusions on the floor that could compromise the integrity of the waterproofing layer being formed.
Surface moisture should not exceed 4%. If this parameter is higher, excess moisture will be locked inside the floor slab, which will lead to a gradual leaching of the mineral surface and, as a result, a deterioration in the bearing capacity.

If you are going to waterproof a porous base (for example, foam blocks), then, on the contrary, you need to moisten it a little, otherwise the sealing mastic will not dehydrate properly and it will not form a waterproof layer.

Having finished preparing the surfaces, you can proceed to the preparation of the selected waterproofing material for work.

Sealant preparation

In the case I describe, I used a bitumen-polymer mastic, which was supplied in a bucket and was already ready to work without any additional effort on my part. But some waterproofers (for example, on cement base) are sold as a dry powder to be prepared.

To do this, the dry mixture is poured into a container, where the required amount of water is added (the temperature of the liquid should be in the range from 15 to 20 degrees Celsius), after which the whole mass is mixed with a drill with a special nozzle. You should get a homogeneous mass without the slightest lumps.

Then you need to leave this mass for 3-5 minutes so that all the components are activated (the solution is “ripe”), and then mix it all again. The solution obtained in this way remains suitable for an hour. Therefore, you do not need to dilute a large amount of the solution, otherwise it may harden before you use it.

The cleanliness of the container is very important for the quality of the prepared solution. Never mix a new batch of mortar in the same bucket as the old waterproofing material. Otherwise, it will turn out to be a leaky waterproofing layer, but ordinary garbage, which will then have to be cleaned off and all the procedures will have to be performed again.

That is why, by the way, I prefer to use ready-made mastic.

Application of waterproofing

Well, now it's time to reveal to you all the secrets of applying mastic to the balcony floor. Here, as you understand, there is no need to be seven spans in the forehead. It is enough to take into account the following points:

You can work only if the temperature of the air and the surface to be treated is above + 15 degrees Celsius, and the humidity does not exceed 60%.
At the same time, if work is carried out on a glazed and insulated balcony, then it is necessary to create such conditions there in advance, no later than two days before the start of work. In addition, the same temperature and humidity must be maintained for 12 hours after applying the mastic so that it polymerizes normally.
I apply waterproofing on the surface of the balcony with a wide brush. If the mastic is thick, it can be smeared with a spatula.

The hardening time depends on the thickness of the applied layer and the type of mastic. Usually, further work on the installation of flooring can be carried out two days after treatment.

Features of waterproofing the ceiling

Sometimes it becomes necessary to waterproof not only the horizontal balcony slab, but also the ceiling of the balcony (for example, in the case when it is located on the top floor). In this case, I advise to use adhesive waterproofing with a heat-activated adhesive layer ( gas burner or building hair dryer).

In this case, the workflow will be as follows:

I pre-cut sheets of pasted waterproofing (for example, TechnoNIKOL) into segments of the desired length.
After that, I heat the surface of the material with a gas burner.
I lay the membrane on a previously cleaned and repaired surface.
I glue the next strip so that it overlaps the previous one at a distance of about 10 cm.
After installing the first layer of waterproofing over the entire surface of the balcony, I seal the joints between the strips with liquid bitumen.
Then I lay the second layer of waterproofing, but so that the strips run perpendicular to the bottom ones. In this case, maximum water resistance is ensured.

Summary

Now you know how do-it-yourself balcony waterproofing is done. If you are interested in the specifics of performing work in wooden house, you can see them in the video in this article. And I would like to ask you how you waterproof the roof of the balcony on the top floor? What are you doing to keep water out? Post your answers in the comments to the article.

A modern balcony is no longer a pantry for storing unnecessary things that do not fit in the house - it is rather a full-fledged room, and its functional purpose may be different. Someone suits here, someone - a cozy place to relax, or even a full-fledged office. However, such a transformation requires repair, which means that you will need to waterproof the balcony with your own hands.

Why waterproofing

If you ignore the need for waterproofing, then very soon your wonderful repair on the balcony will become unusable due to the accumulation here a large number moisture. After all, even durable concrete floors cannot fully withstand precipitation and low temperatures. If you do not perform waterproofing or carry out work in violation of technology, then the following troubles await you:

quick damage to the spectacular finish of the balcony - any decorative panels will get wet and begin to peel off;
metal elements will corrode;
a favorable environment for growth will be created, due to which an unpleasant odor will appear on the balcony;
the integrity of the supporting structures of the balcony may be violated, which will make it dangerous to be here.

Important: Even on an open balcony, waterproofing can bring positive results. It is necessary to properly waterproof the roof and floor, seams and concrete lintels, as well as equip the outer cornice. But it is better if the work is carried out on a glazed balcony (double glazing).

Rules for preparing for waterproofing

Waterproofing is not only work to "improve" the floor and ceiling, but also the careful sealing of the seams and the equipment of the external cornice. However, all these works require careful surface preparation. Before waterproofing, all destroyed areas must be removed and the decorative coating dismantled. The sequence of work is as follows:

The balcony flooring is very carefully dismantled - it will be used later.
The concrete slab is inspected for the presence of flaking and crumbling areas.
Loose areas of concrete are carefully removed with a perforator.
Concrete is cleaned of dirt and dust, which will require brushes with hard bristles. The result is a solid and clean foundation.
The remains of cement or glue are carefully removed.
With the help of a grinder, small cracks expand, and large ones are leveled. This will allow the future screed to fill all the structural elements of the floor. The formed grooves are thoroughly cleaned of debris.
Fragments of concrete are removed from the exposed reinforcement, after which it is thoroughly cleaned of rust accumulations. It is better to use not a mechanical, but a chemical method, since the metal must become really clean.
The fittings are completely covered with an anti-corrosion compound.
Recovering concrete pavement- for these purposes, both special compositions intended for quick repairs and standard cement mortar can be used.
The roof of the balcony is carefully examined and its problem areas are determined, in which moisture penetrates the most.
The roof and partitions are thoroughly cleaned of debris, dust, paint and glue, and also moistened.

What materials are required for balcony waterproofing

Waterproofing a balcony with your own hands requires the use of appropriate materials. So, for concrete bases, penetrating compounds will be required, and for surfaces made of polyurethane, brick or stone, a coating mixture is used.

Important: Both coating and penetrating compositions of your choice must have a high degree of moisture resistance.

Each type of insulation has its own area of use, features and advantages. There are the following types of materials:

Carrying out work on vertical balcony surfaces

If work is carried out on the waterproofing of vertical balcony partitions, then foil polystyrene foam can be used - it is glued with the help of an appropriate building mixture with increased moisture and frost resistance. From above, this coating is already treated with a waterproofing compound ( coating waterproofing). Before applying the solution make sure the surface is moist, after which the first layer of waterproofing is applied with a brush (in one direction, thickness about 1 mm). After 5 hours, a second layer is applied, and it is placed perpendicular to the first. The average consumption of the mixture for waterproofing vertical surfaces is 1.7 kilograms per square meter. meter.

It is also necessary to lay the inter-tile seams with a reinforcing mesh (a mesh with cells of about 5 mm is well suited). The material is “embedded” in the waterproofing and placed in such a way as to cover both sides of the seam by 8-10 centimeters.

Floor waterproofing rules
We carry out waterproofing of the floor with painting materials
In order to qualitatively waterproof the floor on a balcony or loggia, a thorough surface preparation should be carried out. The floor is inspected for loose areas, they are removed, then the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust and moistened. A penetrating type waterproofing is applied to the prepared and moistened surface. in two layers, and the second is applied only after the first has dried.

After that, you will need a foil vapor barrier rolled out on the floor surface. Placed on top of it wooden bars, between which expanded polystyrene is placed. The joints and seams formed during the work are carefully filled with mounting foam, after which you can start laying the subfloor. For these purposes, OSB-plate is best suited. And after fixing it with self-tapping screws, they begin to create a finishing coating.

We waterproof the ceiling of the balcony correctly

Before waterproofing the ceiling on the balcony, you need to determine where exactly the water is leaking and drafts appear. It is desirable to process places of the greatest accumulation of moisture polyurethane based sealant. If large cracks are found on the surface of the ceiling, then it is used polyurethane foam and polyethylene seal.

For waterproofing the top plate, a penetrating compound is used - it enters deep into the surface of the plate and forms special strong waterproofing crystals in it.

Important: After coating with a penetrating mixture, the concrete surface must be protected from mechanical damage and sudden changes in temperature for 3 days. Rapid drying of the composition is also not allowed, so the surface is moistened with water.

After the penetrating waterproofing has dried, you can start laying the foam from the inside. To do this, you can use the appropriate brackets and special construction adhesive.

We carry out work on the balcony with a bay window

If the balcony is located above a bay window, alcove, porch or other facade architectural element, then even more thorough waterproofing will be required. So, waterproofing a balcony above a bay window requires enhanced protection of surfaces from atmospheric influences - otherwise, leaks will form, due to which it will be necessary to carry out repairs to the interior.

Roofing or glazing (partial or full) can act as additional protection measures - thanks to this, the balcony above the bay window will turn into a comfortable loggia.

It is clear that all waterproofing work will be more effective if the balcony is glazed - this implies not only the installation of high-quality double-glazed windows, but also the sealing of the seams and the equipment of the external cornice. In addition, in this case, waterproofing will also prevent damage to expensive finishes. However, on the open balcony, such events will significantly increase comfort.

And now we invite you to watch a video on the topic of our article on waterproofing balconies and loggias from the inside. You will see a demonstration of the work described above.

First provides for a waterproofing device on the balcony along the screed, without a drainage mat, second with drainage.

Consider first scheme on systems proposed by CERESIT and LITOKOL.

Balcony waterproofing scheme from Сerezite.

They have a lot in common. But there are minor differences:

At LITOKOL, in the area where the screed adjoins the wall, LITOSIDE is installed - a polyethylene tape for dividing joints in the screed. It is absent on the CERESET scheme. Its purpose is to compensate for the linear expansion of the screed throughout the year.
At LITOKOL, the lower seam of the plinth on the wall is filled with polyurethane sealant, and CERESET is filled with silicone, and it is also applied to the upper end of the plinth. It's hard to say how much he needs there. The lower section of the seam will be movable. If filled with cement grout, the seam will burst. There it is logical to fill with sealant. Although, Kiilto also has a similar solution, filling the top of the baseboard with silicone.

There are no other differences. With the exception of prices for all components of the waterproofing system and subsequent tiling.

Waterproofing scheme for open balconies from Litokol.

In such (first) system, the insulating layer may differ in the composition of the applied waterproofing. It could be:

Cement, one-component (as in the "CERESIT" and "LITOKOL" schemes considered above) waterproofing.
Cement, two-component, with modifying additives.
Acrylic based mastics or flexible liquid membrane.

Cement one-component waterproofing.

The basis of all mixtures of this type of insulation is cement. Water is used for cooking. The technology of preparation is similar to any mixtures - dosing of water, double mixing. The substrate must be sound and moist (priming is not available for concrete substrates, and this is typical for many one-component insulations).

Covers cracks up to 1 mm (mainly 0.75 mm)

The documentation for the use of this type of insulation lists terraces, balconies, horizontal surfaces and pools.

Cement, two-component waterproofing, with modifying additives.

Cement two-component waterproofing

The second component in this insulation (elasticizer) is a polymer dispersion, a milky-white viscous liquid. It gives high elasticity, covers cracks with an opening of up to 2 mm. Compared to single-component, tensile elongation up to 40%.

In this group there are mixtures (BOTAMENT® MD 28) with good vapor permeability. They can be applied to fresh concrete base without waiting for complete hardening.

insulating mastics.

Ready-made insulating mastics.

This is a conditional group of insulating mastics, one-component, ready for use. Some of them, like MasterSeal, are based on an acrylic polymer dispersion. Among this group there are membranes for internal and external works. Some places of use are indicated with reservations - “cannot be used in pools, underground, etc.”

This type of insulation is also called a liquid polyurethane roofing membrane.

The mastic is based on a highly elastic polyurethane resin, which gives the product mechanical, thermal, chemical and UV resistance.

The list of possible uses of polyurethane mastic is impressive: “Waterproofing of green roofs, flower beds, flower boxes. Waterproofing of old glassine and roofing material. Waterproofing and protection of concrete structures, tunnels, stadium stands, car parks.”

Polyurethane insulation outdoors.

In the case of fastening ceramic tiles to the membrane, the last layer of insulation is sprinkled with coarse sand.

On smooth surfaces ( ceramic tile) Pu Primer is required.

Problem areas - wall and floor joints, 90 degree angles, pipes must be reinforced with NPG 210 mesh or fiberglass.

Reinforcement of problem areas with fiberglass.

Second system waterproofing of balconies provides for drainage after the insulating layer.

Its idea is built on the assertion that water penetrates through the seams in the tile and accumulates on the waterproofing. If it is not taken away, then in winter the tiles and glue with the insulation layer are destroyed. And in the summer, this leads to the appearance of efflorescence on the tiles.

In confirmation that the tile is not a barrier to the penetration of water into the screed, the video:

If the leveling screed is laid on the drainage mat, the water seeping through the seams will drain to the floor drain. This solution prevents the accumulation and freezing of moisture under the tiles.

The waterproofing sheet in this scheme is arranged under the drainage mat. In such a scheme, the options for installing a waterproofing sheet are expanding - bituminous materials, pool films ......

Waterproofing on the balcony with drainage.

Such a system appeared for the first time in 1985. Adherents of laying drainage under the screed consider an additional advantage of such a scheme to be that the elastic design of the mat perceives all deformations in the balcony structure. In their opinion, this prevents the appearance of cracks in the screed and seams. Such mats have long been used in the West when laying tiles on wooden floors.

An interesting solution (without a draining membrane) in the next video. It is worth disassembling it in detail, after viewing:

What is the difference from the conventional approach:

Replacing a conventional screed with a semi-dry one. What gives?

Moisture, which may in the future get into the screed, will not break it when it freezes. This is the drainage that new technologies are aiming for, but a less expensive option.

Semi-dry screed lies on the adhesive base. The adhesive creates a secure contact.

Thinking out loud or what could be improved :

For screed, instead of sand, take screenings or very coarse sand. This will further increase the drainage capacity of the screed without compromising strength.
Prepare the composition of the mixture as 1:2, or 1:1.7. The moisture content of the mixture should be slightly higher than the standard for semi-dry screeds (this is one of the reasons why bad examples this method).
It is important to guess the humidity. When compressing the mixture into a fist, the water should not come out, but the hand will become wet. Water, in this composition, is sufficient for a complete reaction of cement. In addition, wet glue is smeared at the base. The solution will additionally draw moisture from the glue. This is more than enough.

If you cover the screed with a film for 6-7 days, then the strength will be like that of good concrete. But, at the same time, unlike concrete, there will be no destruction during freezing. In structure, such a screed is similar to the structure of limestones (or shell rock - one of the varieties). Stone buildings and sculptures made of limestone, which are 200 or more years old, have survived to this day (this feature must be considered separately and in detail).

Despite the draining properties of the screed, waterproofing is made on top - an additional safety net.

And one more interesting detail - the adhesive furrows are directed along the possible runoff of infiltrated moisture. Perhaps this is a coincidence. But the idea is good.

Naturally, there is a double spread of glue. If you stick to the idea of glue grooves along the drain, then applying the mixture to the tile should be “on the sdir”.

P.S.

Remaining vulnerabilities:

There is no outflow.
Around the metal racks, the first destruction is possible (not always).

There are similar ideas, but with an additional (second) drainage system balcony insulation - laying paving slabs from natural stone on the carving from coarse sand (almost screening out of granite chips).

Also, an interesting design with drainage for balconies was recently proposed at a presentation by MAPEI.

The role of drainage is performed by adhesive furrows applied by large format teeth. The mesh is slightly sunk into the fresh glue, using a large trowel:

Drainage from glue furrows.

If water is poured onto such a structure, it will drain through the drainage channels from the adhesive to the gutter. Laying tiles is carried out on the second day, applying glue on the back side with a notched trowel and across the drainage channels:

Grouting with Ultracolor Plus elastic grout.
Laying around the perimeter, at the junction of the tiles to the gutter, a cord of pressed Mapefoam polyethylene foam.
Application over sealing cord silicone sealant Mapeisil L.M.

Balcony waterproofing scheme from MAPEI.

In general, the durability of tile cladding on the floor of open balconies and terraces is a problem. Increasingly, there are solutions not to glue the tiles, but to lay them dry, on a layer of rubble:

Laying tiles on the balcony floor without glue.

... Or, as a constructor with drainage under the structure (video):

Below is a collection of videos (playlist) on waterproofing open balconies.

The playlist displays the top twenty foreign videos on balcony waterproofing and is constantly updated.

or on the second channel with my video.

Reading 9 min.

A balcony is a fenced slab that is constantly under the influence of atmospheric precipitation. In winter, moisture trapped in the pores of concrete expands, resulting in microcracks. If protection measures are not taken, then not only the balcony slab will quickly collapse, but the things on the balcony will constantly deteriorate from dampness. Each owner of a balcony should be aware of the features and methods of waterproofing.

About the features of waterproofing

Balcony waterproofing scheme

A water-repellent and watertight additional layer on the floor, ceiling and balcony partitions creates reliable protection against the damaging ingress of moisture.

Waterproofing is necessary regardless of the location of the balcony. For example, moisture gets on the balcony of the first floor not only from environment but also from the basement. But the balcony on the middle floor of the house is threatened by leaks from neighbors from the top floor.

Properly executed waterproofing increases the life of the balcony without overhaul and enhances its comfort.

Balcony waterproofing technology depends on such factors:

type of balcony: open or glazed;

location relative to neighboring balconies: next to or separately;

balcony material.

On the open balcony of the last floor, waterproofing of the roof and ceiling is mandatory. With a complex balcony configuration, liquid waterproofing is laid on the floor.

Before waterproofing a wooden balcony, all structural elements are treated with a protective material, and equipped natural ventilation. Under the wooden flooring, a slope is made and drained to the street.

Basic waterproofing options

When choosing an option for waterproofing a balcony, not only the condition of its surface is taken into account, but also the material from which it is made.

Simultaneous use on one balcony is allowed various options. The main options for waterproofing are:

Balcony waterproofing works are carried out in three stages:

preparation;

choice of materials;

waterproofing installation.

Preparatory work

The quality of waterproofing work and durability depend on the preparation. Preparatory work are performed in a certain sequence:

the base is being prepared for the waterproofing layer. It should not have loose layers and protruding reinforcement. All irregularities are cut off by a grinder;

with an iron brush, the base is cleaned of all contaminants;

concrete is removed around the protruding reinforcement. The fittings are cleaned of traces of corrosion and covered with a protective layer;

the ceiling is inspected, and the scope of work on sealing is determined;

balcony partitions are inspected, and the scope of work on sealing is determined.

It has long been established that the waterproofing of a glazed balcony is more reliable than an open one. That is why double-glazed windows are installed on the balcony before waterproofing work. Their tightness depends on the presence of an external cornice and on high-quality mounting foam.

Read also: The choice of composition for processing lining on the balcony

Material selection

The result of waterproofing equally depends on compliance with the technology of work and on the right material. Conventionally, materials are combined into several types:

When choosing, some features of waterproofing materials are taken into account.

Roll pasting materials from Folgoizolon and TechnoNIKOL are supplied in two versions to create various kinds coatings:

self-adhesive coatings - strong adhesion to the surface occurs due to the sticky bitumen layer. Aluminum foil gives the material strength. Laying such materials is a laborious, but inexpensive process.

Coating materials in the form of various mastics are easier to use. Their peculiarity is that a screed is required from above.

Mastics with bitumen are sold in ready-made so they are immediately ready for use.

Mastics with cement are purchased dry, and then diluted with water according to the instructions. The resulting mixture retains its qualities for no more than two hours, so it is prepared in small portions and immediately applied to the surface.

Step by step instructions for the floor

Depending on the materials used and the way the work is performed, various technologies for waterproofing the balcony floor are used. The following technologies are most common.

Cast way.

Reliable, but expensive technology that solves the problem of waterproofing the floor on the balcony for a long time. The moisture-repellent layer is created in two ways. If you follow the requirements of the instructions, then the work is easy to do on your own.

"Hot" option:

dust and debris are removed from the base of the floor. For this we use a vacuum cleaner;

all cracks are covered;

the concrete slab dries well. We use a building hair dryer;

the base of the floor is primed with a liquid solution of bitumen;

along the perimeter of the balcony slab, formwork made of plywood or thick cardboard up to 400 mm high is placed;

to create strength, a metal mesh is laid;

according to the instructions, the mastic is heated and poured;

with the help of scrapers, the mastic is evenly distributed over the entire balcony slab.

after drying - two more layers of mastic are laid.

"Cold" option.

It differs from the "Hot Option" in that the mastic does not warm up. The sequence of work remains the same:

the surface is cleaned and all cracks are removed;

the concrete slab is dried and covered with a primer;

formwork is installed along the perimeter of the balcony;

metal mesh creates strength for the laid mixture;

the cold mixture is poured, and then leveled with a rule or a scraper.

Coating method.

Simple technology has made this method popular with balcony owners.

Its advantages include, firstly, no special knowledge is required to apply the composition, secondly, a service life of up to 6 years, and thirdly - affordable price. At the same time, there is a drawback: bitumen quickly collapses at a negative temperature. This limits the use of materials on open balconies without special additives.

Coating materials are applied hot or cold according to the following technology:

dirt, dust, smudges are removed from the surface;

degreasing of the coating area is performed;

2 coats of primer are applied;

a waterproofing composition is distributed on top of the soil with a brush.

Gluing method.

Technology associated with gluing several layers of sheet or roll material, is familiar to many. It is equally suitable for balconies made of concrete and wood. However, this technology has rarely been used recently, due to such shortcomings:

before laying, painstaking surface preparation is required;

it is difficult to lay material with large dimensions on a small balcony area;

after laying, a specific smell from the material remains on the balcony for some time;

seams are formed between fragments of the glued material, which often leak;

temperature fluctuations adversely affect the quality of waterproofing using this technology;

waterproofing layer must be protected concrete screed. If it is not possible to make a screed, then another waterproofing technology is selected.