Tulips love sun or shade. Where to plant tulips. Container garden in the shade

24.10.2019

Many gardeners, trying to get early shoots of tulips, plant them not in spring, but in autumn. This is a reasonable decision, since from being in cold soil, substances are produced in the bulbs that in the spring contribute to the accelerated development of the plant.

When planting tulips in autumn, it is very important to choose right time and do all the work right. Incorrect and untimely planting can lead to the death of bulbs in winter or poor seedling quality in spring.

Choosing the best landing time

One of the features of planting tulips in the fall is that there are no specific calendar dates when this can be done. Approximately, gardeners give the period from September 15 to October 1, and in regions with a warm climate - from September 15 to October 15. But more often during the autumn planting, they are guided not so much by dates as by soil temperature.

When the soil temperature drops to 5 - 7 degrees, you can start planting the bulbs in the ground. You can determine this moment even more precisely by measuring the temperature at a depth of 9 - 11 cm - it should be approximately +10 degrees. Of course, the soil must be sufficiently moist.

It is important to understand that after planting the bulb in the soil, it must take root there, and for this it will take from three weeks to a month. If the bulb does not have time to take root in the ground before frost, then it can either die or germinate in the spring, but the tulip will be weak and inconspicuous. If the planting is too early, then the bulb can not only take root, but also give a sprout that will die during the first cold snap.

Choosing the best place for planting tulips

Tulips love the sun, and therefore the best place for them is a well-lit ridge. If you plant tulips in the shade, they will also grow, but the quality of the stems and buds will decrease.

Tulip bulbs love moderate humidity. Excessive moisture can kill the plant. Therefore, it is important to choose a place where the water will not stand for a long time and soak the roots.

Because of the "puddles" on the ridge, there may be trouble with the wintering of the bulbs. The fact is that due to excess moisture, the temperature under the ground will be lower, and when cold weather sets in, plants may die.

It is better to plant tulips in neutral or slightly alkaline fertilized soil. If the soil is acidic, then it should be limed. You can not plant tulips in places where previously there were diseased plants, as the infection will spread to new shoots.

Preparing for landing

Before planting tulips, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work:

The bulbs should be sorted out, the diseased ones should be put aside and the healthy ones should be divided into varieties. Diseased plants can become a source of infection for healthy ones, and as a result, the entire shoot will suffer.
A month before planting, the place that is allocated for a ridge for tulips must be dug up to a depth of 25 cm and divided so that the tulips can be planted by variety.
Fertilize the ridge. Fertilizers can be used either purchased or homemade, but not fresh manure, as it can cause fungus to develop on the bulbs.

After all the preparation work is completed, and the soil temperature has reached the required value, you can proceed to the planting itself.

How to properly land

The landing process is not difficult, you only need to follow certain rules:

The depth of planting depends on the size of the tulip bulb and the severity of the soil in which it is planted. So, for light soil, these are three bulb diameters, and for heavy soil, two diameters.
Large bulbs are planted in rows, while the distance between plantings in a row is about 10 cm, and the distance between the rows themselves is about 20 cm. Smaller bulbs can be planted "in Dutch": in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
Because of different height different varieties of tulips, tall stems of some varieties can block the light of less tall specimens, so planting should be done in tiers. The lowest varieties are planted on the sunny side: this way they get enough light and can fully develop.
Tulips should be planted carefully so as not to disturb the root of the bulb. You should not press the bulb so that it enters the ground better: this way you can imperceptibly damage the root and spoil the future tulip.
After planting, you need to level the ridge so that there are no holes left in places where there were holes. These holes can accumulate rainwater, soaking the bulbs and causing them to rot or freeze.

Despite the fact that tulips tolerate cold well, after a frost, the ridge can be covered with a layer of mulch. It will help the bulbs endure the winter cold and protect the soil from cracking. Peat is suitable as such a substance, which must be distributed over the ridge with a layer of 5-7 cm.

Mouse Landing Protection

When carrying out all the work on planting the bulbs, you also need to take care of their protection from small rodents. Mice can ruin an entire tulip crop in one winter, so it makes sense to take protective measures against them. Among the known methods of protecting ridges with plantings from rodents, one can distinguish "biological", "chemical" and "physical".

From "biological":

landing along the edges of the ridge of hazel grouse
landing along the edges of the ridge of daffodils

From "chemical":

processing bulbs before planting with Vishnevsky ointment.
applying a thin layer of kerosene from a spray bottle to the bulbs.
when planting, sprinkle red pepper on the bulbs
spraying a ridge with tulips with a tincture of valerian roots

From "physical":

planting plants in homemade or special containers (for example, the lower halves plastic bottles, special landing boxes)
placement of self-made protective caps over the landing site

The action of "biological" protective equipment based on mice's dislike of certain plants. In this case, bulbous plants are given that have poisonous bulbs that scare away animals. But this method of protection cannot be called particularly reliable, since mice can crawl around the poisonous roots of hazel grouse and daffodils and get to tulips.

The action of "chemical" remedies is based on the fact that the substances with which the bulbs are treated cause disgust in mice. So, rodents do not like red pepper and will not gnaw onions on which it is applied.

"Physical" means act as a normal barrier to the path of the animal. Here it is worth considering that not every material is reliable, since mice can gnaw through thin plywood and even wood. Better take plastic containers, and it is worth protecting the landing both from below and from above.

Summing up

So, when planting tulips in the fall, it is important to remember the following:

Planting time is selected based on soil temperature. 5 - 7 degrees is quite a suitable temperature for starting work.
Before planting, the ridge needs to be dug up by 30 cm and fertilized, and all diseased and small ones should be selected from the bulbs.
Planting is carried out at a depth equal to 2 diameters of the bulb in heavy soil and 3 diameters in light soil, the distance between plants is best made equal to 10 cm.
When disembarking, care must be taken to high grades low tulips were not covered, it is best to plant them in tiers.
After planting, the ridge needs to be leveled so that rainwater does not accumulate in the formed holes.
After frost, it’s a good idea to cover the ridge with a layer of peat in order to additionally protect plants from freezing when severe frosts in winter.
So that the works are not in vain, you must also take care of protecting the landings from mice. To do this, you can plant bulbs in containers made of plastic or other durable material, and also treat them with kerosene or Vishnevsky ointment before planting.

Caring for tulips for lush flowering Tulips, along with crocuses, hyacinths, hazel grouses, delight us first. Red, yellow, pink, variegated buds open in early spring on household plots, cottages and gardens. But not all flower growers enjoy a lush and bright carpet. Sometimes it just doesn't bloom. In the article we will consider in detail why tulips do not bloom. Plants are unpretentious, do not require special attention to themselves. But some rules still need to be followed. It is because of the violation of the cultivation technique in the spring that there is no flowering.

Causes Sometimes you can observe the following picture: blooming tulips interspersed with empty clearings. Not all plants bloomed. Some have produced flower stalks, but the flowers are small. Common causes of non-flowering: 1. Poorly selected planting material. In the same year, only a large bulb blooms. Small - to the next. Damage cannot be ruled out. The gardener did not notice them under the scales and buried the initially diseased tulip in the ground. 2. The plant lacks sunlight. Tulips love the sun. Hidden in the dense shade of trees, they do not want to bloom. 3. Spring flowers are planted in a place blown by cold and strong winds. This problem is especially relevant in Russia. The plant likes quiet areas protected from gusts. 4. Late or early landed in the ground. Weather anomalies disrupt flower-growing terms. In the conditions of a long warm autumn, the bulb produces a sprout, which freezes in winter. 5. The excavation deadlines were not met. What to do? Faded plants must be removed from the ground in a timely manner. Almost the entire summer season, the bulbs rest. If you tighten it with digging, then the tulip will begin a new development cycle. New roots will appear. It is too early to carry out this procedure - the bulb will not "gain" strength. 6. Shallow or deep landing. In autumn, the bulb produces a sprout that rises almost to the very surface of the earth. This is how the plant hibernates. An insufficiently deepened tulip appears too early - it freezes. Strongly deepen - the path to the sun will be long, there will be no strength left for flowering. 7. Bulbs are already damaged in the ground. In clay waterlogged soils, tulip flowers rot. Bulbs love mice - they often feast on the root nests of plants and bushes (the same peonies and crocuses suffer). 8. Incorrect cutting. When cutting flowers into a bouquet, leave at least two leaves. Otherwise, next year there will be no flowering. The garden is very beautiful when the tulips bloom. For the sake of this beauty, you need to try.

Planting and care Buying bulbs Today, breeders offer many different options - you can choose any variety you like. Planting material is classified by parsing. In order for the tulip flower to show all its beauty in the year of planting, we buy the first analysis. These are bulbs 10-14 cm in diameter. Why you should not buy a second, third analysis: it is better to immediately evaluate flowering; flowers appear in the second or third year. It is undesirable to buy onions "from the hands", especially unfamiliar ones. Unscrupulous sellers offer "old" tulips - we get a small bloom or even deprive ourselves of beauty. Landing Period: the last decade of September - the beginning of October. Focus on the climate of your region. In the middle lane - better in the second half of September. In the southern regions, in the Crimea - in the first half of October. Site selection: sunny location, protected from strong winds. The soil is loose and fertile. Soil preparation: 2 weeks before planting, dig to a depth of 30 centimeters. Apply fertilizer. Leave the soil to settle down a little. Depth: for 3 bulbs. Put three onions in a row on the spatula bayonet - you will know the depth. Preparation of planting material: inspect the bulbs for lesions. If it is hard to see, you can remove the brown scales. Soak for half an hour in a disinfectant solution (Maxim, Fitosporin, potassium permanganate). Landing: strictly bottom down slightly pressed to the ground. You do not need to screw it in hard, otherwise you can damage the rudiments of the roots. We fall asleep with earth and mark the place so that in the spring we don’t forget and don’t dig this area again. Some sources advise placing tulips at a distance of 20-30 cm. But if we want to get a lush carpet (as in Holland), we plant closer. It's OK. We focus specifically on our planting plan: what should be the flower bed. An interesting way to plant: put the bulbs at a certain distance from each other on the bottom of the slatted box. Lower to desired depth. It will be easier to dig later. This method does not protect against mice, as some gardeners believe. Rodents are repelled by the smell of hazel grouse - they can be planted along with tulips. Care Growing tulips is easy. They need watering and weeding. During the growing season, it is recommended to feed with complex fertilizers for flowering plants. Water as needed. When cutting flowers into bouquets, be sure to leave two leaves. The products of photosynthesis nourish the bulb, give strength for division. After each cut, the scissors are disinfected. There is a risk of infecting plants with variegation (do not confuse with the varietal feature of the flower). Or do not cut the stems, but break off. When the tulip blooms, unscrew the head. The plant will not waste energy on the formation of seeds. Rest period It is recommended to dig up tulips annually in order to: preserve the variety; notice infection or damage in time; provide high temperature at the time of rest. If you leave the bulbs in the ground, they will "go" deeper. It is more and more difficult for such a plant to produce a peduncle. How long do tulips leave in the soil bloom? .. A year, two ... And that's it. How to dig and store: 1) We extract the plants when the leaves are just starting to turn yellow, and the stem is still dense. If you are late, then top part fall off and the bulb is hard to find. Far from always the bulb is located directly under the stalk - often the tulip "twirls". 2) It is better to use a pitchfork. A shovel can severely damage the planting material. Pitchforks cannot deal significant damage. 3) We shake off the earth from the dug out onions and lay them out in the shade to dry. For 15-20 days. 4) Remove all unnecessary (stems, leaves). Sorted by breakdowns. We shift into nets, boxes and store in a dry, warm place (at a temperature of 22-25 degrees). Houses in the attic, attic, in the closet, etc. Reproduction Tulips reproduce by bulbs. During the season, babies appear around the main bulb. There may be 2-3 of them. With their help, gardeners get young plants. Do not expect fast flowering from the "young growth". This will happen in a year or two. Transplanting flowering tulips to a new place is undesirable: there is a risk of damaging the roots and disrupting flowering.

Tulip is a perennial bulbous plant from the lily family, which came to us from Central Asia. To date, there are 110 types of tulips of various colors: red, yellow, white, purple, purple and even black tulips, and combinations of two, three or more colors are also common. The most fashionable tulip is green-colored, the original contrast of which is created by nature with the help of a green middle and edges of colored petals with green veins.

Tulips were brought to Russia in the 17th century from Holland. The cost of the bulbs was fabulous, so only wealthy people could afford to grow these flowers. There is a legend that tulip flowers are especially yellow color bring happiness and good mood, and it is customary to give a girl unopened buds or those that have just begun to open.

If you love tulips, always look forward to the arrival of spring and crave to see all year round these wonderful flowers on your windowsill, then our article is for you. Today we will talk about growing tulips indoors.

Although it is believed that this flower is quite unpretentious in cultivation, there are several ways to plant in apartment breeding, as well as certain care requirements during the growing season. By following them, the result will certainly please you.

Basic Rules

1.Golden rule: buy bulbs from reliable suppliers, selected and healthy planting material will make it easier and faster for you to get flowering tulips. Always select the largest available.

2. The bulb must be cleaned of the hard shell. This will allow you to detect possible damage at the initial stage, and “naked” and healthy bulb it will be easier to go up.

3. All planting material must be kept for about 30 minutes in a warm broth of celandine. Instead of celandine, you can make a weak solution of potassium permanganate - per liter warm water 3-4 crystals will be enough.

4. If planting is planned in the ground substrate, do not forget about the mandatory sterilization procedure to get rid of pests and larvae in the soil.

5. Choose the undersized varieties best suited for forcing at home: Hibernia Kiss Nellys, Apricot beauty, Apeldorn Elite, Christmas Marvel or Gander.

Growing tulips in a vase

What will be required:

Large bulbs;

Transparent tall vases;

Filler: glass beads, sea stones, sterilized gravel, plastic beads or gel beads that replace the substrate.

Growing technology:

Purchased and sorted bulbs wrap in dark paper and put on a shelf in the refrigerator door for 12-15 weeks;

Prepare impromptu pots: put pebbles, beads and balls in a vase, fill one quarter with water;

Plant the aged bulbs with the sprouts up and fix them with "soil" - the bulbs should not touch the water;

Place the vases in a cool place without direct sunlight for 4-5 weeks until green shoots appear;

Expose your tulips on the windowsill from the sunny side;

Just a few weeks of waiting and your apartment will turn into a flower garden.

The duration of flowering will be about two weeks, so take care of preparing the bulbs for the next planting in advance. Those. after the opening of the first flower, you can prepare the following vases so that the flowers on your windowsill bloom without interruption.

Growing tulips in flower pots

What will be required:

Large bulbs that have been cold-treated for at least 12 weeks;

Planting containers not smaller than 15 cm;

Drainage to the bottom;

Prepared soil.

Growing technology:

Fill the pots with earth to one third of the height;

Lay the bulbs sprouts up at a distance of 1 cm from each other;

Cover with earth to the top of the pot, water and add earth if necessary;

Put the pots in the cellar for several weeks, check the moisture content of the earth;

When the height of the seedlings is 5 cm, you can transfer the pots to the room, covering them with a paper cap to protect them from sunlight;

Caps can be removed after a few days winter time you will need additional lighting for flowers;

Enjoy flowering at any time of the year.

You can extend the flowering period if you put the pots in a cool room at night. Do not forget about the mandatory watering. It is not recommended to use re-bulbs of home-grown tulips for this purpose, so feel free to send them to the dacha and next year they will delight you with their flowering in natural conditions. Try planting the bulbs in an old stump in the area - it will original idea for a flowerpot.

Good luck with your experiments and spring mood all year round!

First you need to decide on the "quality of the shadow", because it can be very different.

Stable, for example, along the northern wall of the house, where the direct sun never looks.
Partial shade, for example, near an east-facing wall, where there is sun in the morning, and a steady shade in the late afternoon.
Scattered, for example, under the crowns of trees or shrubs.

It should be noted right away that profusely flowering crops for shade, giving bright flowers all summer, not so many, or at least not to be found in the lists of habitual flyers. Most really shade-tolerant plants have graceful, delicate and quickly fading flowers. And most of them are perennials that rarely produce flowers all summer - it makes sense to think about several crops that will succeed each other.

Therefore, we will consider all shade crops that will provide a bright decorative effect, not necessarily due to flowers, but, for example, beautiful leaves, throughout the warm season, and also consider the flowering time of all possible crops for different types shadows.

The most spectacular and long-blooming crops that can tolerate partial shade

The following are flowers that bloom really brightly, for partial shade, partial or diffuse shade:

- many spectacular hybrid varieties for abundant flowering, they require good lighting, however, in nature, this plant grows on the edges of forests, that is, in partial shading, so it is quite possible to create a beautifully flowering bed of daylilies in the shade, if you choose the right varieties - it is especially beautiful in partial shading (in the morning - the sun, afternoon - light shadow) look varieties of dark shades (red-black, purple-black, purple), they fade in the sun and quickly wither. According to the timing of flowering, there are different groups, the duration of flowering is about a month, but you can combine different varieties and get a long-blooming flower bed.
- for abundant flowering, good lighting is desirable for him in the morning and shadow since noon. blooms from the beginning of June to the end of July, after proper trimming re-blooms towards the end of August.
— blooms all summer, feels great in partial shade, flowers like foxglove, only brighter and larger, a rather rare plant, although undeservedly.
Pansies- This charming summer plant grows both in the sun and in partial shade. In the sun the flowers are larger and brighter, but in partial shade the flowering will be longer. The timing of flowering can be varied at your discretion (by sowing seeds in a different period).
Balsam- the plant does not tolerate direct sunlight, it needs only diffused light. blooms July to frost.
ever blooming begonia- requires bright, but diffused light, can burn out in direct sun, blooms all the time, grown in seedlings in open ground as an annual.
Fragrant tobacco-blooms from June until frost. Likes well-lit places, but light partial shade is acceptable.
astilba- blooms in June-July, about a month, loves a sparse soft shadow. Panicle flowers are very spectacular, there are many varieties. The appearance of the plant is elegant, feminine, bright.
Astrantia- the flowering period depends on the variety, but this is one of the longest-playing plants, some varieties bloom from June to the end of September, feels good in the sun, in partial shade, and even in full shade (only in heavily shaded places, flowering will not be so bright), grows well under trees.
mimulus- in direct sun it can burn, the best place is well lit, but with partial shading. blooms original flowers resembling orchids, in two waves - in spring and autumn.

Astilbe and hosta ‘Sun Power’

Medicinal, spicy, aromatic herbs feel good in partial shade:

peppermint,
radiola pink,
tarragon,
borago,
perennial bows,
Melissa officinalis.

Penumbra or scattered shade is well tolerated specific peonies: Maryin root, Caucasian, Wittmann - bloom from the beginning of May to the end of June, since August, the bushes adorn quite spectacular fruits. Many herbs and cereals also grow well in partial shade (, cortaderia, gray fescue).

Of the bulbs, they tolerate a lack of lighting well:

Daffodils.
Kandyk.
Merender.
Grouse.
Whiteflower.
Scylla (scilla).
Korolkovia.
Iridodictums.
Pushkin.
Muscari.
Crocuses.
Hyacinthoides.

Tulips, primroses, pansies.

Plants that love light but can thrive in partial shade

That is, these plants can give abundant flowering in a flower bed, for example, on the western or eastern side of the house, where the light only gets part of the day. If they are planted on such a site, then they should be treated as capricious, and provide very good other conditions (proper soil, watering, top dressing). All these plants bloom brightly and for a long time:

Snapdragon.
Ageratum.
Levkoy.
Balsam.
Lobelia.
Poppy self-seed.
Petunia.
Pansies.
Sweet pea.
Kobe.
Carnation grenadine.
Daisies.
Heliotrope.
The bell is medium and large-flowered.

The bell is medium.

Flowering plants for deep shade

These are plants for the shade, where the direct sun never hits. They will feel good in the shade of buildings, even on the north side, under the dense canopy of trees, near the fence:

Aquilegia (catchment) – blooms in June-July. Flowering time can be extended by picking off wilted flowers, preventing them from setting seed pods.
. Almost all species grow well in partial shade, climbing aconite feels great in the shade. Flowering time varies 20 to 60 days depending on the type. Extremely poisonous!
Brunner- blooms spring, at good care May re-bloom in autumn.
Cyanosis.
Fragrant violet.
Bathing suit.
Primrose common.
Chistous.
Forget-me-nots.
Digitalis.
Anemone.
Black cohosh.
May lily of the valley.
Violet fragrant.
Tiarka hearty.
Kupena.
Elecampane is excellent.
Spring umbilical.
Lungwort.
Fragrant woodruff.
Turkish carnation.
Cuff.
Cornflower mountain.
Dicentra.
Doronicum orientalis.
Gentian.
Garden geranium.
Avens.
Hellebore.
Siberian irises.

Ferns (shield, ostrich) look great in the shade, although they do not bloom.

Variegated lily of the valley and astilbe.

shade under the trees

Some tree species create a light openwork shade, but at the same time they dry the soil very much and this factor must be taken into account, because most shade-tolerant crops prefer moisture. Grows well in shade and dryness.

bought broadleaf,
periwinkle,
Goryanka,
forest anemone.
spring primrose,
badan,
comfrey,
garden geranium red-brown or Balkan.
cereals.

Under a pine tree where sandy or sandy loam soil:

lilies of the valley
periwinkle,
survivors
violets.

Trees and shrubs for shady areas

Shade-tolerant trees and shrubs may be required for compositions:

korean fir,
elderberry black,

Creepers for shade

The most popular for shady areas:

wood pliers round-leaved - universal, grows both in good light, and in the shade, and in partial shade. However, in dense shade it does not bear fruit;
actinidia kolomikta - beautiful decorative leaves motley changeable color;
ivy - grows well even with strong shading.

It is worth noting that most vines, being plants that depend on a support, which in nature is usually a tall, shade-producing tree, are used to a lack of lighting.

This applies even to such a spectacular culture as. Many large-flowered hybrids like coolness, not higher than 25 degrees, and light or shade is secondary for them and shade may even be preferable - if it gives coolness.

Wintergreen (with red berries), skimmia, hellebores and ivy.

decorative leafy

Spectacular macro-sized for shade with expressive foliage:

- blooms for a month from mid-July to mid-August. Has exotic leaves, decorative all season and especially beautiful in autumn.
- blooms for about a month, in August. Powerful, juicy, sculptural plant.
- flowering depends on the variety, some varieties are characterized by incredibly persistent flowering - up to 2 months. Textured appearance, fleshy round leaves. Ideal conditions for culture - penumbra.
- blooms for about a month in the middle of summer with spectacular panicles. Openwork foliage. The plant is graceful, refined, elegant, lush.
– landing recommendations vary greatly. In any case, varieties with dark leaf color feel great with strong shading, lighter ones need light partial shade. The appearance of the plant is exotic, bright, vibrating.
- classic shaded areas. Decorative throughout the growing season. It goes well with any other plants, has a lot of shapes and colors that are good both in single plantings and in compositions.
Chistets Byzantine- loves good lighting, but also grows well in partial shade. Attracts attention with pubescent, woolly leaves of a bluish-gray hue.

Ground covers:

Pachysandra- frost-resistant shrub up to 25-35 cm high. Flowering is inexpressive, but is valued for dense decorative foliage that does not change its appearance throughout the year.
Gaulteria- an evergreen ground cover shrub 10-15 cm high, blooms with elegant white flowers in June-August, then the plant is decorated with spectacular bright edible fruits that last until late spring. Feels great under trees.
White-rimmed gout- beautiful white-green foliage, the plant is very unpretentious.
Mother of thousands- the leaves are similar to ivy leaves, beautiful "lipped" flowers appear on the plant from June until frost.
European hoof- has juicy fleshy large and thick leaves in the form of a hoof, creates a dense coating.
Yasnotka- very beautiful silvery leaves, bright spongy flowers. He likes good lighting, but sparse, the best places are those where the western or eastern sun falls.

Hosta, Geranium, Lavender.

Container garden in the shade

Shade-tolerant plants that do not overwinter in the open field in the middle lane, but you can plant them in pots and create a container bed. If desired, they can be dug in so that the pot is not visible. If there is an opportunity to mess around with digging for the winter, you can land them for the summer in open ground, although this is rare for the middle band. All of the plants listed below are decorative all summer and do not tolerate direct sunlight. The best place for them - penumbra, or east windows:

Skimmia- semi-shrub, leathery glossy foliage, bright inflorescences all year round.
Coleus- does not like direct scorching rays of the sun. Highly decorative all summer.
begonias- both tuberous and ever-flowering plants need bright diffused light, but not the scorching sun.
Caladiums- in the West they are actively grown in open ground, in the middle zone only in pot culture. The leaves are extremely beautiful.
Fuchsia- needs no introduction. Charming in a standard form. Blooms from spring to late autumn, feels good in partial shade.
Torenia- blooms all summer. Requires good lighting, but does not like direct midday sun.

Composition example

To create a flower bed in the shade that blooms all summer, you can competently “mix” plants with different, albeit short, flowering periods.

For example, a composition for a very wet penumbra:

Kaluzhnitsa - low bushes, 30-40 cm, blooms in early spring, from late April to May, for 2-3 weeks. There are terry varieties.
Lungwort.
Forget-me-not.
Astilbe.
Hosts.
garden geranium. Best Views for shade: Himalayan, swamp, meadow.

In the photo Terry marigold - Caltha palustris ‘Flore Pleno’

Unpretentious shade-loving perennials

In the video below, a selection of the most energy-efficient shade-loving flowers: these are perennials - which means you don’t need to plant them every year, they are generally unpretentious - which means they won’t require “dancing with tambourines”.

A flower bed with tulips will be colorful and healthy if the gardener chooses the right place for its organization, prepares purchased or own bulbs and soil for planting, selects the optimal planting time, and provides quality care for the planted flowers and the entire flower bed.

Few amateur growers do not have at least a couple of varieties of tulips in their collection. These flowers are easy to care for and come in a wide variety of shapes and colors, which makes them such a desirable flower bed decoration. Every spring, millions of flower beds bloom throughout the country, where these wonderful plants are planted. And although it is believed that there is no more optimal time for planting them than early autumn, experienced gardeners know a few tricks on how to plant tulips in the spring so that they bloom.

Preparing purchased bulbs

If the bulbs were at your disposal in the fall, then it is better to plant them in the fall. Optimal time for this September - the beginning of October. If the planting material fell into your hands in late autumn or winter, there is no point in planting it in open ground, even if the weather allows.

Until spring, the bulbs are recommended to be stored in a cool, dry place, such as a refrigerator (but not a freezer). Under influence low temperatures special chemical and physiological processes take place in them, which then contribute to better germination and flowering of plants. Even if you purchased the bulbs just in time for planting, they still need to be kept in the cold for at least 12 hours so that they germinate better.

In late February - early March, after wintering, planting material must be disinfected in a weakly concentrated manganese solution. Bulbs should be kept in it for half an hour before planting tulips at home in a pot (only in spring they can be transplanted into open ground). The distance between the bulbs can be minimal. From above, they are covered with a five-centimeter layer of earth and left in a warm (heated) room for about a month until sprouts appear. Only after that, tulips can be planted in open ground.

If the spring turned out to be early and the snow melted already in March, you can try to plant the bulbs immediately in open ground. But in this case, be prepared that in the event of more or less severe frosts, the plants may die, and if this does not happen, then the flowers will in any case appear noticeably later than those tulips that were planted in the fall.

It should also be noted that if you decide to plant blooming tulips in the spring, then it is better to simply transfer the pot to the flower bed and leave it like that. In extreme cases, you can carefully remove them from the pot, trying not to disturb the clod of earth, because otherwise the plant will not be able to take root and will die.

Preparing your bulbs

If you use bulbs obtained from your own flower garden as seed, they should also be subjected to preplant preparation. Before planting tulips in the spring, they must be subjected to the following procedures:

The bulbs dug out of the flower bed must be cleaned of the hard outer peel and the bare bulb should be examined for defects and diseases. In addition, a "naked" bulb is able to more efficiently obtain nutrients from the soil.
Next, the planting material is degreased and disinfected. To do this, you can use the already mentioned potassium permanganate solution or a special preparation. An alternative to chemistry is a solution of celandine, in which the bulbs should be kept for about half an hour. This will help destroy fungi and bacteria that can harm the bulbs.
When planting bulbs in pots, it is recommended to use only a clean substrate, since soil taken simply from a flower bed may contain putrefactive bacteria. By the way, the top layer of soil in the flower bed itself is also recommended to be completely replaced for the same reasons.

Soil preparation

So, we have already answered the question of whether it is possible to plant tulips in spring. You can if you know some tricks. But in general, the process of spring planting is not much different from autumn. The most important thing in the spring planting of tulips, as well as roses, lilies, or any other flowers, is proper preparation land plot.

The soil in the flower bed needs to be dug up to the depth of the shovel bayonet, that is, by about 25 cm. To increase the permeability of the soil (do not forget that tulip bulbs do not tolerate high humidity), it is recommended to add coarse sand to it. Also do not forget about fertilizers, in particular about humus (but just do not use fresh manure).

As a preventive measure, the flower garden can be treated with a light fungicidal solution that will kill fungal diseases contained in the soil. If the problem is already found on adult plants, treatment with a solution of twenty grams of the working substance per 10 liters of water is recommended.

Spring Planting Tricks

In open ground, adult large bulbs are usually planted one at a time, but last year's "kids" can be placed in groups of five to ten pieces in one hole. Since the stems of tulips rise high enough above the ground to create a continuous carpet of ornamental plants in the flower bed, they can be planted with low-growing flowers (for example, forget-me-nots or daisies), or ornamental grasses - hostas, astilba, or bruners.

Planting depth also depends on the size of the bulbs used. Large ones are located at a depth of 10-15 cm, small ones - 7-8 cm. The distance between planted plants should also be about 8-10 cm. The indent between rows should be more - 20-25 cm.

When placing the bulbs in the garden, they must be carefully placed in the hole, but in no case should they be pressed into the soil, as this can damage the root system, which at best will slow down the growth of the shoots.

Since tulips do not tolerate excess moisture, make sure the flower bed is sloping. It is unacceptable that there are pits and depressions in the flower garden that can accumulate rainwater.

It is also worth telling another tricky way how to plant tulips in the spring in the country. Dutch professional flower growers practice the so-called "floor method" of planting bulbous flowers, which today has been adopted by many domestic gardeners. This method allows you to simultaneously plant several types of flowers in one flower bed with different periods flowering. Planting technology is extremely simple and involves planting bulbs at different depths. For example, tulip bulbs are first planted, covered with a five-centimeter layer of soil, and then, for example, hyacinths are planted on top. Another layer of earth is placed on top of the hyacinths and, say, crocuses are planted in it. As a result, you get a flower bed where three types of flowers bloom and fade at once, while you simply admire them and do nothing.

Now let's take a closer look at the question of when you can plant tulips in the spring so that they give strong shoots that can bloom beautifully. This issue is no less important than the preparation of the flower bed, since the survival of plants depends on how optimal the planting time was.

As already mentioned, it is best to plant tulips in the fall between early September and mid-October. However, since we are talking about spring planting, there are own rules here, and there is an optimal period for planting in open ground.

If the bulbs are planted too early and germinate before the night frost is over, the young shoots, and possibly the entire bulb, will die. If you delay planting longer than it should, the plants will germinate normally and nothing will threaten them, but there is a high risk that they will not bloom this year.

It is believed that tulips can be planted in open ground when the ground at the planting depth warms up to 9-10 degrees Celsius. Depending on the region, this may be the period from mid-March to early May.

Flower garden care

Because the spring planting is not a biological norm for tulips, the issue of high-quality and timely plant nutrition becomes even more relevant. Whether tulips planted in spring will bloom depends to a large extent on this. In order for the shoots to give beautiful flowers, and then form strong viable bulbs, they need to be fed three times:

For the first time, fertilizers are applied immediately after germination.
The second top dressing is carried out shortly before the start of flowering, which will require a lot of energy from the plants.
The last time tulips are fed immediately after flowering, when active formation new bulbs.

For top dressing, you can use complex fertilizers created specifically for tulips. If this method does not suit you for some reason, you can fertilize separately. In particular, tulips can be fed with nitrogen (ammonium nitrate, ammonium nitrate, etc.), potassium sulfate, phosphorus (superphosphate, calcium phosphate, bone meal).

Choosing a site for a flower garden

In conclusion, it is worth talking a little about where exactly tulips should be planted. These flowers have certain preferences for growing conditions, so by providing them with such conditions, you can achieve truly amazing results. In particular, when choosing a landing site, consider that:

Tulips love light and dislike shade. Make sure that the flower bed is not shaded by trees or buildings or other structures during the day.
Blooming tulips are afraid strong wind. To prevent the buds from crumbling ahead of time, protect the flower garden with a barrier of some shrubs or create a low fence from the most windy directions.
In excessively moist soil, the bulbs rot. If the soil in your area is oversaturated with moisture, raise the flower bed 25-30 cm above the general ground level and create drainage in it by pouring a layer of crushed stone, broken brick or at least coarse sand under it.