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All plants need to be transplanted or transplanted from time to time. And most often, a transplant is performed due to plant growth, when regrown roots need a larger pot. In cramped conditions, indoor plants stop their growth, stop blooming and lose their decorative effect. Many novice flower growers are wondering how to transplant violets at home. After all, saintpaulia is a very delicate and fragile culture, from which you want to achieve beautiful flowering in the end.

When to transplant an indoor flower?

This plant needs an annual transplant, it has a beneficial effect on its overall health. With time soil loses nutrients, the necessary acidity and caking. In addition, the transplant helps to hide the bare stem, helps to obtain a luxuriantly flowering rosette. How do you know when it's time to repot a violet? There are certain signs:

  • There is a white coating on the surface of the soil, which indicates that the soil is deprived of air permeability and that it is supersaturated with mineral fertilizers.
  • An earthen ball is tightly wrapped around the root system of a flower. To verify this, the plant is removed from the container.

What time of year to transplant violets? Saintpaulia is transplanted at any time of the year, with the exception of winter, when the luminous flux is limited. Therefore, in winter period it is better not to disturb the violet, but to wait for a warm time. If you still decide to transplant in late autumn or winter, then the plant must provide additional lighting by connecting lamps. If the summer turned out to be hot, then it is better to postpone the transplant, since the survival rate in such conditions gives a low percentage.

Is it possible to transplant flowering saintpaulia? Many flower growers are interested in this question. Experts answer that transplantation is undesirable at the time of budding, since violet can stop the process that has begun. If the plant blooms, this means one thing: it feels great in this pot too. Therefore, there is no need to rush. You should wait until the saintpaulia fades, only then proceed to transplant it.

Transplantation in flowering form is carried out only when absolutely necessary, in cases where immediate flower rescue is required. This procedure is carried out correctly - by the method of transshipment of an earthen coma. Before that, all the buds are cut off so as not to delay its speedy adaptation.

The plant for transplantation must be prepared. An earthen lump is slightly moistened to prevent root damage.

The earth should not stick to the hands, but it should not be overdried either. When moistening the substrate, avoid getting water on the leaves, which will save them from contamination during transplantation.

Main Rules, according to which it is required to transplant Saintpaulia, are the following:

Different transplant methods

Today you can transplant this indoor flower by several methods. For this need plastic pots, soil substrate and a little time.

Most common cause transplanting saintpaulias at home is to replace the old soil mixture with a new one. This procedure is carried out when the violet stops developing, has a bare stem or sour earth. Such a transplant requires a complete replacement of the soil, including its removal from the roots. This makes it possible to conduct a thorough examination of the root system; in case of its unhealthy, the removal of rotten and damaged parts is required. The violet is carefully removed from the pot, the earth, yellowed leaves, sluggish and dry flower stalks are removed. Sections must be treated with coal powder.

If a lot of roots had to be removed during transplantation, the container is chosen one size smaller than the previous one.

The bottom of the pot is covered with expanded clay, after which form a mound of earth, on which they spread, straightening the roots, violet. Then we fill the soil to the very leaves. For better compression of the roots with an earthen clod, lightly tap on the pot. The plant after planting is watered no earlier than 24 hours later. After watering, when the earth of the mute settles, you need to add the earth to avoid exposing the stem.

Violet is transplanted at home and for a partial change of soil. This method is good for miniature varieties when a partial renewal of the substrate is sufficient. Such a transplant is carried out without damaging the root system in a pot. bigger size. The transplant itself takes place in exactly the same way as the previous method, however, the substrate is partially shaken off, without the need to disturb the earthy coma.

The method of "transshipment"

Transplantation of Saintpaulia by the method of transshipment is carried out in case of saving a flowering specimen or in order to seat the children. Also, this method is applicable when you need to transplant a heavily overgrown flower outlet. This transfer means complete preservation of the earthen coma. How to make it?

A larger flowerpot is covered with a layer of drainage, followed by part of the fresh substrate. An old one is inserted into this flowerpot, aligned in the center. In the resulting free space soil is poured between the pots, tap the container for better compaction. Then the old container is removed and a violet is placed in the recess formed from the previous pot along with an earthen clod. It is necessary to ensure that the surface of the new and old soil is at the same level. Transshipment of Saintpaulia completed.

After this procedure, competent care is carried out, with which you can achieve full development and lush violet blooms.

Uzambara (Uzumbarskaya) violet- a plant of the Gesneriev family, grows in the natural environment of tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, Africa, Eastern Australia, South America and the Indian Ocean islands.

Saintpaulia- a plant named after the father and son of Saint-Paul, who brought a plant unknown to Europeans from the Uzambara district (modern Tanzania) in the 19th century, presented for the first time at the international flower exhibition in Ghent in 1893.

Violet room- one of the most popular plants in indoor floriculture since 1927. By 1949, more than 100 varieties were bred, and today their number exceeds several thousand.

rooting- possibly in water, in the substrate, moss.

Priming- purchased soil or a mixture of leafy, coniferous, soddy and peat soil in a ratio of 3: 1: 2: 1 with the addition of baking powder (perlite, vermiculite, river sand, crushed sphagnum moss.

Lighting- it is best to put flower pots on the western or eastern windows. In order for the plant to be evenly lit from all sides, the pots are periodically rotated. In winter, when daylight hours decrease, you can use artificial lighting - fluorescent lamps.

Care- real art and serious painstaking work at the same time, including watering, fertilizing, creating a favorable humid climate. Water Saintpaulia as the soil dries. The soil should be regularly moistened, but excess moisture should not stagnate in the roots. When watering, it is necessary to ensure that water does not fall on the leaves. Do not water the uzambar violet cold water. Top dressing is carried out with complex mineral fertilizer once every two weeks. Saintpaulia reacts negatively to a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Optimal Humidity air about 50%, temperature - 20-22 ° C, without sharp fluctuations and drafts. The leaves of the plant should not touch the window pane. Removal of faded flowers and damaged leaves is carried out regularly.

reproduction- planting a leaf cutting, part of a leaf, a daughter outlet. The most popular method is rooting a leaf cutting. The formation of roots and the development of children lasts 4-8 weeks.

Pests- this is one of the problems of the grower. There are many various kinds pests, it is very difficult to classify them. Among the pests of saintpaulia, several groups can be distinguished: mites (spider, flat, transparent, etc.), insects (aphids, thrips, springtails, podura, mealybugs, whiteflies, scale insects, etc.), worms (nematode).

Diseases- distinguish between infectious (gray rot, powdery mildew) and non-infectious diseases (rotting of the stem and root, wilting of the lower leaves, yellowing, leaf spotting, incomplete opening and premature drying, falling flowers) of plants. The causative agents of infectious diseases are bacteria, fungi, viruses. To prevent infectious disease it is necessary to strictly observe the modes of watering, temperature, humidity, illumination. Non-communicable diseases usually occur due to violations of agricultural practices. They may appear on one instance and not spread to others.

How to grow indoor violets at home?

Violet- This indoor plant, which is a rosette of rounded leaves, which is attached directly to the root system. The complete absence of a stem makes it unlike all other decorative flowers. Inveterate florists love violet for its bright and memorable appearance. Unlike many other indoor plants, it has a variety of colors, which allows you to create floral arrangements with it, which become the highlight of the living space.

But still, the violet has a small drawback. She loves to be carefully looked after. If you do it wrong, then it is unlikely to delight you with its bright flowering. If you want to know how to properly water, feed and transplant violets, then read our article.

Indoor violets: leaf propagation step by step

Violets: leaf propagation

If you decide to propagate the violet yourself, then the first thing you need to do is find a healthy and strong leaf, which will later become a new flower. It is best to take it from an adult plant that grows well and does not get sick with anything. It is desirable to cut it off in the second row of leaves or under a flowering rosette.

But those leaves that are at the very top or bottom of the flower are not suitable for transplantation. The lower leaves are not suitable for this purpose due to the fact that they are prone to decay, and the uppermost ones, as a rule, are not yet sufficiently developed to take root successfully.

  • Gently pinch off a leaf from an adult violet and carefully examine it from all sides. Be sure to check that there are no stains or damage on it.
  • The next step is to prepare the leaflet. To do this, you will need to take a sharp knife and cut off its stem at an angle of 45 degrees. Such manipulation will increase the area on which roots will begin to form, which will subsequently form a fairly powerful root system.
  • Then prepare the dishes in which you will dip the leaves. It will be better if these are containers with a thin neck. If you don’t have anything like that, then take an ordinary plastic cup, just don’t lower the leaf into it without a paper lid with a slot.
  • Next, dissolve activated charcoal in water and pour the resulting liquid into prepared containers. If you do not want to prepare such a solution, then mix distilled and ordinary water in equal parts. In this case, you will also get a weakly disinfected environment with a minimum number of microorganisms.
  • Pour disinfected water into containers and dip prepared violet leaves into them. If you want to avoid rotting, then make sure that their stalk falls into the water by no more than 1 centimeter.
  • Place the containers with the leaves in a place where there is enough light during the day, but at the same time make sure that they are not exposed to direct sunlight during the day. Also, do not forget to ensure that the water in the containers always remains at the same level, and if necessary, add it periodically.
  • After the leaf has roots, carefully transplant it into the ground. Do everything so that the young roots are not damaged, and in no case do not deeply deepen the leaf into the soil. By such actions, you will only delay the development of a full-fledged plant.

How many days does it take for violets to have roots?



In the process of rooting, we do not change the water, but add it as it evaporates.

As practice shows, on average, the roots of the cut leaves begin to appear approximately 20 days after they were lowered into the water. But, of course, this is not always the case. This process is influenced by the water into which the plant material was lowered, the very condition of the leaf, and no matter how ridiculous it may sound, the season. Those who are engaged in breeding indoor plants know that at the end of winter and the beginning of spring, all decorative flowers begin to develop intensively.

Due to the fact that during this period they begin to receive much more natural light and heat, all their processes are accelerated and, as a result, they begin to bloom more intensively and produce leaves. These processes slow down by the end of summer, and practically stop in autumn. In view of this, if you propagate violet in the spring, then its leaf can take root even after two weeks. If you try to do this in summer or autumn, you will be able to see the first roots only after a month and a half.

Soil, land for growing violets



Soil nutritious "Violet"

I would like to say right away that violets categorically do not tolerate soil teeming with bacteria and microorganisms, and that is why the “dig up near the house” option will definitely not suit you. If you do this, then your plant will grow poorly or, in general, will die. In view of this, it will be better if you still take care that your houseplants grow in the right soil.

Moreover, if you wish, you can buy it at any specialized store without any problems. Well, if for some reason you don’t like the purchased soil, you can quite easily prepare it yourself. For those who don't know how to do it right, below we present several ways to prepare a light and healthy soil that is ideal for growing indoor plants.

So:

  • The easiest way to prepare the right soil is to mix one part ordinary soil with two parts peat and add a small amount of sphagnum moss to it all. After thorough mixing of all components, the product can be laid out in flower pots and young violets can be planted in it.
  • If you want to make really good soil with your own hands, then take 6-8 parts of high-quality peat and add one part of sphagnum moss, perlite, vermiculite and charcoal to it. In this case, you will be able to loose soil, which will prevent the reproduction of putrefactive bacteria and contribute to the faster development of the flower.

Watering violets through a wick



Watering violets through a wick

Most beginner flower growers make the same mistake when growing violets. They water it in the same way as other houseplants. As a rule, with such watering, some part of the moisture inevitably falls on the leaves and stems, and as a result, pathogenic bacteria begin to multiply intensively there, which provoke decay. In view of this, it will be better if you water violets through a wick.

For such watering, you will need to stretch a piece of fabric or rope into the hole that is in the bottom even at the stage of planting a flower. One end of it should reach approximately half the pot, and the other should have a length that would allow it to get life-giving moisture from the very bottom of the water container. So, after the wick is drawn into the pot, it will need to be installed in a container of water so that the bottom does not touch the liquid, but at the same time, almost all of the wick is lowered into it.

If you do everything right, then you no longer have to monitor whether the soil dries up in flower pot. The plant, if necessary, will itself take the amount of moisture it needs, thereby helping to ensure that the soil in the pot has ideal moisture.

Lighting, air humidity for violets: requirements



Lighting violets at home

As you probably already understood, when growing violets, it is necessary to take into account all the seemingly unimportant nuances at first glance. In view of this, if you want this houseplant all year round pleased you with its beauty, then be sure to also monitor the lighting and air humidity in the room in which it stands.

For example, in order for a violet to bloom intensively, it needs at least 12 hours a day to receive a sufficient amount of light. For this reason, if it so happens that your flowers are standing in a room in which there is not enough natural light, then be sure to consider turning on electric lamps.

As for humidity, ideally, its performance should be kept at around 70-80%. Of course, in an apartment or in a house with batteries, such humidity is rare. But still, in this case, there is an opportunity to solve the problem. You can spray water in the room with a spray bottle 2-3 times a day, or simply periodically put wet pieces of matter on the batteries.

What fertilizer to use for growing violets?



Fertilizers for violets

Violets, like other ornamental plants, need additional feeding. If you stick them in the ground and just occasionally water them, they will definitely not grow normally. In view of this, it will be better if you periodically enrich them with useful trace elements. As practice shows, if violets are not fertilized at least once a month, then they begin to grow much worse and stop blooming.

As for what fertilizers to use for the normal growth of violets, then each person must decide for himself what fertilizer he is willing to spend on. And this means that you can buy any top dressing ( Peters, Etisso, Valagro ), the main thing is that in its composition there should be a maximum of substances useful for the plant.

The optimal composition of fertilizer for violets:

  • Potassium
  • Phosphorus
  • Sodium
  • Magnesium
  • Molybdenum

Yes, and remember that even the best fertilizer must be used as carefully as possible. Therefore, in no case should you exceed the dosages indicated on the labels and carry out top dressing strictly following all instructions. It can be entered in two ways.

If it is planned, then simply dilute the fertilizer in water and saturate the soil with it (you can just water the violet with it or put the plant pot in the fertilizer pan). If your plant needs emergency help, then you can pour the diluted fertilizer into a spray bottle and spray it over the flower.

Is the fertilizer Peters, Kind Force, Fertika suitable for growing violets?



Fertilizer Good power

Peters, Dobraja Sila and Fertika are the ideal supplements for feeding violets at all stages of their growth and development. Since they belong to complex fertilizers, with their help you can solve almost all the problems that this ornamental plant has. You can increase the defenses of the flower, stimulate their growth and flowering and contribute to the good development of the root system.

Moreover, if you use these particular fertilizers, you can reduce the number of transplants to a minimum, thereby relieving the flower of unnecessary stress. Due to the fact that he will not need to regularly restore his root system, he will bloom almost without interruption.

When is the best time to plant and transplant indoor violets?



Optimal time for transplanting violets

Above, we have already told you how the violet behaves at different times of the year. And if you were attentive, you probably remembered that in late autumn and winter it practically stops growing and blooming, or, as advanced flower growers say, falls into a state of dormancy. Of course, if you try to transplant it during this period, then it will definitely not take root well in a new place.

If you want the flower to take root as quickly as possible in a new pot, then transplant it in spring or early summer. True, and in this case there is one nuance. Violets do not tolerate heat very well. Therefore, if you want everything to go well, then choose the time of transplantation so that at least two days after the leaf was transferred to the soil on the street, it was cloudy.

If you have to transplant the violet during the period when it falls into a dormant state, then be sure to provide it with the right amount of light. This can be done with indoor lighting.

How to plant or transplant violets?



Violet transplant at home

Remember, if you need to transplant a violet, then you need to do this with a complete replacement of the soil. As practice shows, no matter how regularly fertilizing is carried out, the soil is still depleted and, as a result, the transplanted plant is not able to receive useful material in in full. Therefore, it will be better if you prepare fresh soil in advance and only after that proceed with planting violets.

So:

  • To begin with, slightly tilt the pot and scrolling through the flower, try to get it along with the soil.
  • Next, we begin to clean the roots of the plant from the old soil. This can be done by hand or by simple shaking.
  • At the next stage, we begin to inspect our plant
  • We remove dry flowers, yellowed leaves and rotten roots.
  • So that this whole procedure does not harm the violets, we cover all the places of the cuts with crushed activated carbon
  • We take a thoroughly washed pot and lay a drainage layer in it (expanded clay or polystyrene)
  • Pour soil on top of it (we told you how to cook it a little higher)
  • We put a violet on it, carefully distribute all its roots, and then again sprinkle everything with a layer of soil
  • Let the violet stand for one day, and then water it and send it back to the window

Care for violets in spring, summer, autumn, winter



violet care

As for care in spring, summer and autumn, it is quite standard. All that will be required of you is to regularly water the flower and do not forget to feed. If you do all this on time, then the violet will definitely delight you with its bright look. But with the advent of winter, care for violets becomes a little different.

First, you must do everything so that during the day she receives the right amount of light. Therefore, it will be better if you transfer it to the sunny side or try to turn on the room lighting immediately after it starts to get dark. Secondly, during this period, it is necessary to strictly monitor the humidity and temperature in the room. If these figures are very low, then the flower will surely die.

It is also worth remembering that violets do not need to be fed in winter. You can quite easily carry out the last top dressing in November, and the next time you apply nutrients to the soil at the beginning of March. During the dormant period, the violet will rejuvenate and with the advent of spring it will begin to delight you with a large number of bright flowers.

Why violets do not bloom, how to make them bloom?



Reasons preventing violets from blooming

If you notice that your violets release leaves, but do not appear on their outlet bright flowers, that is sure sign that the plant does not like something. The most unpleasant thing in this situation is that if you do not eliminate the reasons that do not blow the flower to develop correctly, then in the end this can lead to its death.

Reasons preventing violets from blooming:

  • Lack of light (poor room lighting)
  • Incorrect top dressing of an adult flower
  • Too dry or too wet potting soil
  • Air humidity below 30%
  • Too dense soil
  • Various diseases and pests

As you can see, there are quite a few reasons why a violet may refuse to bloom. And this means that in order for your indoor flower to once again begin to delight you with delicate flowers, you definitely need to make sure that it receives everything that it needs. Believe me, if you properly care for your room beauty, then you definitely will not have such problems.

Spots on violet leaves: what to do?



spots on violet leaves

Beginning flower growers, seeing spots on violet leaves, are immediately upset as they think that they are a harbinger of the death of a flower. In fact, in this way he can react to changes in environment. For example, if a flower evaporates more moisture than it receives, then its leaves become covered with brownish spots.

Yellow spots indicate that the plant has received sunburn and it urgently needs to be removed from the sun. Watery lesions white color appear with abundant watering or a sharp temperature drop. Immediately I want to say that it is not necessary to treat the affected leaves, if you want the plant to improve, just remove them, and coat the cuts with crushed activated charcoal.



Diseases of violets with photos and their treatment

How unpleasant it would be to admit it, sometimes even with proper care violet can get sick. In this case, the cause of problems are microscopic pests that damage the leaves, stems and roots of the plant.

Such diseases are more dangerous than nursing ones, and therefore it is necessary to get rid of them as soon as possible. If this is not done, then the flower will inevitably die, infecting all those plants that stood near it.

Diseases and their treatment:


  • late blight(you can get rid of this disease with the help of Fitosporin, by spraying the affected plant).


  • Fusarium(you can try to get rid of the problem with any fungicide suitable for combating houseplant diseases).


  • powdery mildew(plants are sprayed with an antifungal agent such as, for example, Benlat).


  • Gray rot(to begin with, all damaged leaves are removed, and then treated with the Teldor fungicide).

Video: Indoor violets (saintpaulia): rejuvenation, reproduction and transplantation

I always thought that violets are the easiest flowers to care for. Poured, and everything, rejoice! But when such a beauty appeared on my windowsill, I did not have to enjoy her charm for long. When fading, the leaves became soft or completely changed color from dark green to brown, fell off.

And to my great sadness, it no longer bloomed. The wise grandmother suggested that the whole point is to give the violet a second life - to transplant it. Having done this procedure, which I will describe below, I started five more Saintpaulias without fear. They delight with their blooming appearance almost all year round.

Homemade violet (saintpaulia) is a charming beauty of any interior. It blooms for a relatively long time, is not whimsical in care, and impresses with its tenderness and charm.

Taking up little space, it still requires a transplant different reasons: rejuvenation, seating of children, loss of the nutritional properties of the earth, lack of oxygen to the roots. But the most common reason for transplanting is the rapid growth of the plant, when the violet does not fit its roots into the pot.

  1. Transplantation conditions (reasons, methods, time of transplantation).
  2. Preparation (capacity, substrate, plant preparation).
  3. stages of transplantation.

For the development of the plant and flower stalks, the violet must be properly transplanted. There are several conditions that must be observed in this process. First of all, you need to figure out why the plant requires a transplant?

Causes

There are the following reasons for transplanting violets:

  • Soil depletion: the earth becomes dense and oxygen does not pass well to the root system. The violet begins to starve, since the earth has already given all the nutrients to the plant.
  • If a light coating appeared on the surface of the earth.
  • In the case when the root system is too developed and there is no place for it in the old pot.
  • When the growth of a flower stops or when its general appearance worsens (leaves rot or dry out).
  • The appearance of children who should be transplanted after a certain time.
  • Flower renewal (for the appearance of children, flowering).

Ways

There are several ways to transplant synpoly at home:

  1. Transshipment - the plant is removed from the old container and, without releasing the roots from the ground, is transplanted into a larger pot. Thus, a minimum of stress is applied to the plant, and there is more room for the roots. In addition, fresh soil rich in nutrients is added, which will enrich the roots.
  2. Complete transplant - the entire soil is replaced. Roots are cleared of old earth and planted fresh.

Time

As a rule, synpolia is transplanted in the spring, when the plant is at the peak of its growth and development. It is not recommended to transplant the plant in the summer due to the high air temperature.

For a plant, this is a lot of stress and hard adaptation, and some species do not survive. In winter, they are not advised due to lack of sunlight and the plant being at rest.

It is possible to transplant violets in the fall, if this procedure did not work out in the spring. For example, a violet was sick or blooming.

It is advisable not to touch flowering synpolia. You can transplant them only when the root system rots. In this case, it is necessary to remove all flowering stems, as they will take the vital energy of the flower, and dry the roots.

A transplant must be planned without fail if the plant begins to hurt or just has been ill.

Training

The preparatory stage is the most important in the transplant process, as it takes enough time. Preparation takes place in a few days, starting with watering the flower and preparing the container and soil.

Capacity

Pots for violets should be well washed and disinfected. For small developing synpoly, shallow containers with a diameter of about 5-7 cm are suitable. For adults, larger containers are used: a diameter of 15-20 cm (always measure at the widest point of the pot, i.e. top).

The height of the pot should be no more than 10 cm. As a rule, the violet will not bloom immediately, but after a few months. The plant begins to produce flowers only after the roots fill the dishes.

Sometimes ordinary disposable plastic cups are used to transplant babies. They are usually high for this plant, so the cavity below is filled with drainage. It can be pebbles or pieces of foam.

In order for the earth to be saturated with moisture, special wicks are brought into the holes of the cup or pot from below. They are lowered into water, which moves up the fabric, moistening the soil.

You should not pick up a clay or ceramic pot for violets. Such containers do not retain moisture well, and the earth dries quickly.

substrate

Violets grow well in a substrate containing black soil, peat and river sand. Chernozem should be approximately half of the capacity, peat occupies 2/3 of the remaining space, everything else is sand. Peat and sand perfectly pass moisture and air, creating a favorable microclimate for the plant.

Sometimes sphagnum (moss, which perfectly retains moisture), brick chips, vermiculite, perlite or coconut fiber (retains moisture and prevents the soil from drying out) are added to the substrate.

Be sure to mix all the components, except for drainage and moisture-retaining ones, thoroughly before transplanting the plant.

Expanded clay, small broken pottery or pieces of foam can be used as drainage. Drainage creates favorable conditions for the drying of the soil. Without drainage, the soil in the pot is not saturated with oxygen, stagnates, and the plant quickly rots.

The components of the future soil are mixed and disinfected with potassium permanganate. Before transplanting, a moist, but loose earth is necessarily taken. Biohumus can be added to the soil.

Also in specialized stores you can buy a ready-made substrate for violets. Buying it will save you from searching for all the components of the right soil, disinfection and other things. In this case, the owner of the violet will be 100% sure that the soil is not infected and the violet will accept it.

Plant preparation

Before you get a violet from the ground, it is watered for 3-4 hours a small amount water. So that the soil is moderately moist, but does not stick to the hands. The roots of the flower are cleaned of the old earth (if it is a complete transplant) and the damaged ones are removed.

In case of decay, the damaged area is cleaned to a healthy stalk and sprinkled with fine charcoal. And if the roots of the plant are completely dead, these leaves are placed in water until a new root system is formed. Then planted in new soil.

Transplant stages

  1. Preparatory stage. Disinfection of the soil and a suitable container. Preparation of the plant itself and the soil.
  2. We stretch the wick through the holes at the bottom of the pot to moisten the soil.
  3. We cover the bottom of the pot with a fine mesh or sphagnum so that the earth does not wash out with water when watering.
  4. Lay drainage on the bottom.
  5. Fill half the container with earth and pass a wick through it. You should also lightly compact the earth with a stick or a teaspoon.
  6. Plant the violet in a pot in the center, straightening the roots.
  7. Top up the soil without falling asleep the neck of the plant so that the lower leaves of Saintpaulia are not immersed in the ground.
  8. Water the flower, compacting the soil. Add more soil if needed.
  9. For the first time, while the violet adapts, the ground is covered with moss or coconut fiber from above so that the moisture does not evaporate so quickly. But you need to make sure that air enters the soil and the roots do not rot.

By following the rules for transplanting these amazing flowers, you can achieve good results. By following the recommendations of this article, this beauty will delight with flowering, the appearance of new leaves and children for a long time.