Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, geysers, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation. Gas boiler aogv Heating boiler aogv 11.6
The chain of events prompted me to write this publication, forcing me to try my hand at self service gas boiler. I will note right away that this is not quite an “exchange of best practices”, as it is usually presented, since some of the facts stated, on the contrary, speak of the initial complete inexperience of the user. But, perhaps, the information presented will help those who read it to avoid such mistakes.
The fact is that with the seeming abundance of information on the network, I had to face the fact that intelligible step by step instructions it is not so easy to find - most often everything is limited to selective advice on the forums. The factory manual covers many problems quite dryly, and does not bring much clarity, and some important aspects are practically missed in general, which, in principle, led to the situation that will be discussed. So, what caused and how the AOGV-11.6-3 gas boiler was cleaned with their own hands.
How it all began
In acquired own house we moved in September 2002. The heating system was (and still is), but then it was organized according to the principle of natural circulation. The boiler room is in a separate annex, equipped according to all existing rules. As a heat generator, an old cast-iron boiler with gas burners was used, some, as I remember now, incredibly large sizes, also with "self-made" laying of fireclay bricks inside. It was a complete ruin with him: every month in our not the coldest winters (Moldova, Transnistria), the counter wound up 800 cubic meters!
In a word, it was decided to carry out a replacement. We opted for AOGV-11.6-3-U, both for reasons of low cost and taking into account the mass good reviews about this model from friends. At the same time, it was installed circulation pump. The results were not long in coming - already next winter the house was much more comfortable, and the heat was distributed evenly throughout all the rooms. And the monthly gas consumption fell by more than three times! - usually fit into 220 - 270 cubic meters.
Prices for gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3
gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3
To the credit of the manufacturers, it must be said right away that over the past 13 years there have been absolutely no problems with the operation of these purchased devices. Even in cold winter In 2008-2009, when another "gas war" was going on, and the pressure in the gas supply pipes was reduced to a critical minimum, the boiler coped with the task quite well - it was not hot at home, and we were not in danger of freezing. To be honest, it was even strange for me to read on the forums that many houses have a gas valve button constantly tied up on such houses - there were simply no problems with automation during the entire period of operation.
Visits of inspectors gas facilities are regularly held in our city. There have never been any particular complaints about the operation of the equipment. The only remark was the year before last - to replace the corrugated section of the chimney (before inserting into the root pipe) with one made of galvanized steel. The shortcoming has been eliminated.
This year, the cold snap came a little early, and already in early October it was decided to start the boiler at the most minimum power. But a problem was discovered - the igniter wick did not want to light up, and if it did, it was with such a tiny flame that it was barely visible. Naturally, such a torch did not provide heating of the thermocouple, and the automation did not work.
A similar situation (but on a smaller scale: the torch ignited immediately, but was weak) was also observed a year earlier. The igniter nozzle was clearly clogged, and last year it helped that I (at my own peril and risk) managed to spray a can of carburetor cleaning fluid on this “jet” through a long curved tube. After the liquid evaporated, I tried to light it - everything worked, and last winter there were no more problems during the entire heating season.
Last year, we managed to do without showdowns - the nozzle was cleared of such liquid for carburetors But this year, such a measure turned out to be insufficient - the effect turned out to be even the opposite. The igniter didn't light up at all.
I really didn’t want to completely remove the entire gas unit with burners (and I didn’t even know how accessible it was then). I tried, by unscrewing the gas supply tube to the igniter from the magnetic valve block, blow it through with car pump. Useless. There was nothing to do - I had to think about how to remove the entire burner block in order to mechanically clean the igniter nozzle.
The boiler, of course, is tied up, the system is filled. Access from below is minimal, since the boiler is still standing in a special pit. All this at first was very frightening - how to dismantle the gas unit? I didn’t find any sensible advice, but I came across a hint on one of the forums - this node rotates about the central axis - the input gas pipe.
Since there were no operations of any significant scale, I did not take a photo at that stage. The operations shown below were carried out later, when the boiler was re-dismantled. But the essence remains the same.
- So, if you try to look at the boiler from below (for the initial examination of the "situation" at first I used a mirror placed below), something like this opens up:
The burner block itself is mounted on the bottom cover. Arrow pos. 1 shows the inlet of the gas supply pipe to the main burner. Pos. 2 is the input of the igniter and thermocouple tubes. And this entire assembly, in addition to the rigidity of the gas pipe, is held on the flanging of the cylindrical casing of the boiler by three hooks. They are located along the edge of the bottom plate at the vertices of a regular triangle. The blue arrow shows one of them, the one located somewhat to the left of the ignition window.
The second hook is closer to the back of the boiler on the left (if you are facing the ignition window).
The third is almost exactly under the automation unit, at the level of vertical tubes descending down to the pallet.
Prices for gas boilers
a gas boiler
- After a thorough inspection of the entire bottom part, I did not find any other fasteners or fixing elements. This means that there must be grooves through which these protrusions can be disengaged from the flanging of the casing. As a result, it turned out that there was only one groove, and it was located in the area of the third hook (in the course of the show). To get on it, the pallet must be turned slightly clockwise. In the illustration, the direction of rotation is indicated by a green arrow. By the way, the opening unpainted section of the casing is also clearly visible - you can see how the pallet is shifting.
- Understood the principle of fastening. But in order to turn the pan and remove the burner block, of course, it is necessary to disconnect the gas pipe, the igniter tube and the thermocouple contact tube from the automation unit.
- First of all, I checked once again whether the gas supply from the home wiring was turned off.
- Then he carefully unscrewed the nuts on the fittings of the automation unit.
1 - gas supply pipe to the igniter torch. key for 12.
2 – tube with thermocouple contact. key for 12.
3 - gas supply pipe to the main burner. Key for 27.
The paronite gasket on the main gas pipe has been removed. Checked - excellent condition. On the flare tube - the gasket remained on the fitting of the tee, but also - it is clear that it is not worn out, and will still serve quite well.
- After disassembling this assembly, the pallet turned quite easily, and through the groove, the holder closest to the tubes disengaged from the casing. Now, supporting the pallet from below, we slightly feed it towards ourselves - and the other two holders also come out of engagement. We lower the entire assembly to the floor, and then carefully pull it out between the legs of the boiler.
The photo shows the removed pallet, but I will make a reservation again - the photos were taken later, during the secondary disassembly of the boiler. The first time the picture was much "cleaner". Further, the text will make it clear why so much attention is paid to this.
- I checked the condition of the main burner - it was completely clean, with no signs of any deformation. There were no complaints about her work.
- Then he moved on to the "culprit" of this whole undertaking - to the nozzle of the ignition torch. I unscrewed the two screws holding this assembly (wick plus thermocouple) in the assembled position. The screws, however, at first resisted, but after processing with WD-40 they still went. He removed the box-shaped casing from the pilot burner, got to the nozzle.
The brass nozzle itself was coated on top light white plaque (like scale), and it was very quickly, without effort, removed with fine sandpaper. The nozzle itself, yes, was overgrown, barely “drawn” even visually. It's okay too - he took a thin copper vein from a loose cable and cleared the hole. For a guarantee, I also blew under pressure with a pump from the side of connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit. All task completed!
- At the same time, while there is free access, I very carefully cleaned the bend of the thermocouple tube with sandpaper-“zero”: there was a very light layer of oxide - it accumulated during the period of summer downtime.
- I carefully assembled all the nodes in reverse order. I suffered a little with the reverse installation of the pallet - but then I got used to it.
First, it is necessary to progressively, without skew, raise this entire block so that the burner goes inside the housing, and the igniter and thermocouple assembly does not cling to the flanging of the casing. Then, standing on the side of the pipes, slightly push this entire assembly towards yourself, give a slight downward slope so that the opposite edge of the pallet rises slightly (literally a couple of degrees!) Then, while feeding the pallet forward, you should simultaneously put on two distant hooks so that they go into the flanging of the casing. Direct the hook closest to you into the cut groove, and when it enters it, turn the entire pallet counterclockwise. The magnitude of this rotation will be visually indicated by the position of the pipes - the gas pipe will be directly under its branch pipe of the automation unit, as it was during disassembly.
- I installed all the tubes in place, after checking the presence and correct fit of the gaskets. I tightened the nuts on the gas supply pipe and on the igniter tube with a wrench. Before reinstalling the thermocouple tube, very carefully, literally barely touching, I cleaned the contact pads with a “zero”. This nut, in accordance with the recommendations read, was tightened not with a key, but by hand, only with the force of the fingers.
- I checked the tightness of the connections - I brought a sponge from the kitchen with detergent, opened the gas supply, “washed” the joints of the gas pipes - everything is fine, there are no signs of a leak.
- I tried to start the boiler. The wick caught fire perfectly - with an even flame, "washing" the thermocouple bend. Literally in 15-20 seconds - the gas valve worked. I waited a couple of minutes, then opened the gas supply to the main burner - it caught fire evenly, without cotton. I experimented - I closed and opened the supply to the main burner several times: everything is fine - the wick burns evenly, does not go out, the burner ignites as normal.
That's it, I set approximately the desired level of heating, closed the shield on the ignition window, and left, full of pride in the work successfully done.
I didn’t know then that my “adventures” were just beginning!
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An unexpected problem
For several days, the operation of the boiler did not cause any complaints - it did not fade, the heating system worked well. However, about a week passed, and it seemed to me that a previously unusual smell appeared in the boiler room - this is not the smell of gas in its pure form, but rather the “aroma” of burnt gas. In addition, it began to give the impression that, according to the feelings of the household, there was a lack of warmth.
A couple of times the boiler went out at night - for no apparent reason. Well, then - more. About a week later, when I entered the boiler room, I saw an eerie picture - the burner flame was trying to “get out” through the ignition window closed by the shield. A fairly large section of the metal casing above the window was almost red-hot, the paint on it was completely burnt to “pure” metal.
Naturally, the boiler was immediately extinguished. After it cooled down, I tried, as an experiment, to ignite. The wick works fine, the automation also works well. But when the main burner is ignited, then, firstly, the flame has pronounced orange ends of the flames. And secondly, the “crown” of the flame is not directed completely upwards, but also tends to the gap between the heat exchanger and the outer casing of the boiler.
It is clear - this is a clear sign that inside the boiler the flow of hot gases meets some kind of resistance, in a word - the channels are overgrown with soot. Soot is everywhere, even on the contour of the ignition window - it has never happened before that I somehow get my hands dirty when igniting, and now black spots appear on my fingers, by the way, they are very difficult to wash off even warm water with soap.
But the question remains unanswered - why? After all, in so many years, I have never had to deal with such a problem.
Useful again on the forums - to look for the cause. And on one of them I came across useful advice- such a picture is characteristic of incomplete combustion of gas, without the supply of additional air. He began to deal more closely with the design of his boiler, and revealed something that he had simply not paid attention to before. This is a collar-shaped damper at the inlet of the gas pipe to the boiler, from below, right at the pallet. There, on the pipe, there are two diametrically opposite holes, which are covered by this damper.
I ran to check: it is - the damper almost completely covers both holes. Poor knowledge of the "materiel" led to the fact that I did not pay attention to this nuance at all. And in the process of disassembling the block of burners, apparently, he accidentally moved this damper to a position in which air access was blocked.
I tried to open these windows and ignite the boiler - yes, the flame immediately changed color and became more even. But the "crown", of course, still tends to the space between the casing and the heat exchanger, that is, the reason found does not save me from cleaning the boiler.
Boiler cleaning
It is clear that in order to carry out cleaning, I need to disassemble again - also dismantle the burner block, and plus, remove the top cover of the boiler.
- I had to suffer a little with the removal of the umbrella, which passes into the metal part of the chimney. The fact is that in the boiler room itself - a brick, indigenous type, installed on a foundation, and two pipes are embedded in it - from the boiler and, above, from the gas column.
I walled the boiler pipe myself, did it in due time with high quality, and it “sits” very tightly. I had to make an effort to achieve a small backlash. But in the end it turned out - it was possible to raise it so that there was enough clearance to remove the umbrella from the pipe. The picture turned out to be very colorful.
Soot deposits are already visible under the umbrella itself. And if you look at the umbrella from below, then on the hemispherical divider-collector of condensate there is a soft loose layer of soot with a thickness of under 10 millimeters.
- To remove the top cover of the boiler, you must first disconnect and dismantle the draft sensor. It is held on the cover with plates that are screwed with two self-tapping screws (in the illustration above - shown by blue arrows). But no matter how much I twisted these self-tapping screws, they turned in place, without moving up a millimeter. In the end, he spat on this matter - he decided to remove the cover along with the sensor. To do this, first, using a 14 key, unscrewed the nut connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit.
I immediately checked the paronite gasket - “live”, remained in place, and therefore decided not to disturb it.
- Further, it would seem, everything is simple - the lid is fixed on the boiler casing with three self-tapping screws.
The self-tapping screw, which is located on the front side of the boiler, came out quite easily.
But the other two - had a "violent resistance." They simply didn't want to budge. Neither powerful screwdrivers, nor WD-40 processing, nor tapping helped - they stand motionless.
In the end, the slots for the screwdriver began to “lick” - but all with the same zero result. There was only one way out - to cut off the heads of the screws with a grinder, fortunately, they were not made “under the sweat”.
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self-tapping screws
It's okay - cut very neatly. Looking ahead, I’ll say that I subsequently replaced these fasteners with hex-headed roofing screws - in case of future cleanings of the boiler. It holds even better, and unscrewing it will not be any problem.
- The lid sat tight, and I even had to tap it a little from the bottom - resting a wooden block on the bottom edge. After that, she took off smoothly.
On the back of the lid, traces are clearly visible that remain due to the incorrect passage of combustion products. They found their way between the heat exchanger and the boiler shell, then converged to the central opening of the chimney.
Naturally, there is no need to talk about any efficiency of the boiler in such a situation - it rather warmed the boiler room than gave off heat to the system. It is better to keep silent about the safety of such functioning.
- The water heat exchanger of the boiler is covered from above with its cover. It is fixed and tightly pressed against it with the help of special fasteners - metal wedges (in the illustration above they are shown by yellow arrows). These fasteners come off very easily.
I thought they were springs - nothing like that. These wedges are made from normal mild steel and their ribs are bent in the same way as conventional cotter pins. They are easily reduced to the center, and then the wedge is removed from the slot.
- In the same way, I removed all the stoppers, and then removed the cover. And horrified...
This small gap between the heat exchanger and the cover, in which the gas flows from the three channels must be combined into one central one to exit the chimney, is tightly clogged with soot.
- Now it is necessary to get inserts-turbulators of the gas flow from the channels of the heat exchanger. They succumbed without much resistance when he picked them up with pliers.
The picture turned out even worse than I could have imagined - the layer of soot deposits on the blades of the turbulators is impressive in its thickness!
At the same time, I immediately see what condition these vertical cylindrical channels are in. Picture matching...
Naturally, even if we “bracket” the problems of traction, there is no question of any efficiency of the boiler with a heat exchanger so overgrown on the outside.
- Next, I removed the boiler tray with the burner block - how this operation is performed, I have already told above.
- Everything, you can go directly to cleaning all the nodes. For this operation, an ordinary plastic bottle brush was purchased at a hardware store - it will go for vertical channels. Tie it up with duct tape wooden lath to traverse the channels over their entire height.
I know that the “classic” for home creativity is blue electrical tape, but I only had white 🙂 And for cleaning other parts and surfaces, I purchased a flat brush with soft brass bristles.
- I start cleaning from the upper plane of the heat exchanger - I clean and sweep down all the soot deposits. It turned out as shown in the illustration above.
- Then I move on to cleaning the channels. Soot moves away from the walls quite easily - it has not yet had time to “zadubet”. Characteristically, it is very oily.
- After cleaning the boiler itself, I turn to the removed parts and assemblies. In order not to breed excess dirt in the boiler room, I transfer all this action to the yard.
The burner itself is clean this time, except for the soot that attacked from above - it was easily brushed off with a brush. At the same time, I immediately slightly clean the thermocouple tube with a “zero” - this will not hurt.
- After the cleaning operation is completed, I proceed to the reassembly of the boiler. First, I installed the block of burners in place - this has already been discussed above. I immediately connected all the tubes, checked the gaskets and tightened the nuts.
And here I immediately focused my attention on the position of the air channel valve. When cleaning, I removed this clamp from the pipe (I really don’t know why), but when reverse installation it turned out that it was made of mild steel, and did not possess any springy qualities. After installation, it began to hang out and just slide down. I had to make a small improvement - to drill holes in the "ears", and after putting on the damper, slightly tighten it with a long M5 screw. It turned out fine - now the clamp is securely held in a predetermined position, but moving it is not difficult.
The illustration shows that the air inlets are half open.
- The next step is to put the turbulators in place.
The installation of turbulators is very simple, and it is simply impossible to make a mistake here - they are inserted into the channels and held in them due to the widening of the central metal plate located on top. I insert them so that this plate is oriented along the radius of the cylindrical heat exchanger, that is, the blades will be located approximately tangentially to the circle.
- The next step is to replace the heat exchanger cover. The eyelets for the clamps entered the slots in the cover.
I insert metal cotter pins-wedges into the slots of the eyes, and lightly knock them out from the back - so that the cover fits as tightly as possible to the heat exchanger. After that, I spread the antennae with pliers - that's it, the lid is securely fixed.
- Next, I reinstall the top cover of the boiler. Holes from a single self-tapping screw that came out normally help to orient with its correct position. In my case, the thrust sensor was not removed - it is already in place, and all that remains is to connect its tube to the tee and tighten the nut.
- I complete the assembly by installing the cap. I slip it under the pipe, put it on its socket (it fits very tightly), and then carefully put it in place. Three protrusions on the cap should fit into the corresponding holes in the boiler cover, and in this case, the cut-out semicircular window will be located above the passing tube of the temperature sensor.
- Naturally, after that all connections were checked for tightness.
- I turn to the long-awaited moment - to start the boiler. The wick caught fire immediately, and after 15 seconds the magnetic valve worked. So far so good.
I open the gas supply - the burner ignites easily, the fire burns with an even crown, with the same height of the flames, and they do not look to the sides, but are directed pronouncedly upwards, which was to be proved!
- I tried to "play" with the air damper. As a result, I had to open it a little more - I achieved an even blue flame, practically without impurities of red or orange hues. The experimental shutdown and gas supply (simulation of boiler shutdowns and starts) was successful - the igniter flame is stable, and the burner ignites immediately and almost silently.
Two weeks have passed since then - there were no complaints about the operation of the boiler! Winter is ahead, and I hope that the heating system will not present us with any unpleasant surprises.
And for myself I decided the following:
- Be more attentive to the little things of any design - everything has its purpose, and ill-conceived actions can lead to emergency situations.
- The cleaning process has been mastered, it is not so complicated, so I will carry it out regularly - before the start of each heating season, at least for prevention.
Find out how to produce by studying the requirements that must be met in a special article on our portal.
The author is aware that such work, in general, should be carried out by appropriate specialists. Therefore, this article should not be regarded as a guide to action, but only as a story about what happened - about how one very small mistake, inattention, led to serious problems and required their urgent elimination. I hope that the information received will be useful to someone.
In Russia and throughout the post-Soviet space, along with the old "Soviet" AGV heating boilers, they are widely used and have different reviews. gas boilers or Zhukovsky. These devices run on gas, and, as you know, it is the cheapest type of fuel today. Besides, AOGV boilers quite unpretentious and do not require any special conditions for their work.
In this article we will try to understand the AOGV boilers, what it is, consider specifications non-volatile gas heating boilers AOGV-11.6, disadvantages, prices and draw up instructions for use.
AOGV what is it
For many of those who are puzzled by the purchase of an AOGV gas boiler, at first this name of the boiler may seem incomprehensible. In fact, everything is simple.
AOGV is an abbreviation, its decoding is Gas Water Heating Heating Apparatus. The number that comes after this abbreviation indicates the power of the gas boiler. For example, the decoding of the abbreviation AOGV-11.6 indicates that this gas heating apparatus has a power of 11.6 kW, AOGV-17.4, respectively, 17.4 kW, etc.
Consider AOGV boilers using the example of popular boilers manufactured at the plant in the city of Zhukovsky, manufactured by ZhMZ.
Boilers AOGV-11.6-3 Comfort, Universal and Economy series
Boilers AOGV-11.6 and their technical characteristics
Non-volatile gas boilers are designed for heating a private house, garage or other premises. Issued only in floor version. Household versions of gas boilers have a range from 11 to 29 kW of power. The main type of fuel for the AOGV boiler is natural gas.
Water is heated using gas burner located under the heat exchanger tank at the bottom of the boiler. When replacing a gas burner, it is possible to use the boiler on liquefied gas. The body and heat exchanger of the boiler are made of steel. The heat exchanger for heating water has a tubular structure, which contributes to its sufficiently high efficiency.
The inlet and outlet fittings for connecting the heat carrier are located on the back of the boiler body. These fittings are 40 mm or 1 1/2 inches in diameter. At the bottom is the “return”, at the top is the “direct”. smoke channel connected to the upper part of the AOGV boiler body, the diameter of the chimney must be at least 120 mm.
Boilers are produced both single-circuit and double-circuit: under the name AKGV-11.6-3. The latter are intended for both heating and hot water supply.
Boiler device AKGV-11.6
The structure of a double-circuit gas boiler is almost identical to a single-circuit one, only a steel coil is additionally built into the heat exchanger for flowing utility water. If you want to buy a dual circuit with good performance hot water, then you have to choose a device with a thermal power of at least 23 kW.
Double-circuit gas boilers AKGV with a power of 11 kW will give you 4-5 liters warm water in a minute. This, of course, is enough, for example, to wash your hands or dishes, but no more.
What is the difference between floor gas boilers AOGV
So, in everyday life, heating boilers AOGV-11.6-3 of the Economy and Universal series are the most common. The main difference between these series lies in the types of automation installed on the boilers.
Gas boilers AOGV-11.6-3 Economy have domestic automation. The operation of this boiler is controlled by means of a thermostat knob and an electromagnetic valve, to which a draft sensor and a thermocouple are connected.
Boiler AOGV-11.6-3 Economy
Thermocouple for gas boiler AOGV
A thermocouple is an important element of the automation of a gas boiler AOGV. It is made of copper, shaped like a thick rod. Serves to control the presence of a flame on the igniter. If the draft level drops, the draft sensor is activated and the solenoid valve shuts off the gas supply.
Boiler automation AOGV-11.6-3 Economy series
Boilers AOGV-11.6 of the Universal series are equipped with Italian automatic equipment Sit. This device has an automatic thermostat and piezo ignition. The boiler starts at the touch of a button. At the same time, there is no attachment to electricity.
Boiler AOGV-11.6-3 Station wagon with automatic Sit
Boilers AOGV and AKGV of the "Comfort" series are equipped with an American Honeywell automation, which also has a built-in piezoelectric element, but a slightly different design.
Advantages of boilers AOGV-11.6-3
— the ability to work in systems with natural and forced circulation
- compatible with any material from which the heating system is made (steel, cast iron, polypropylene, metal-plastic)
— energy independence
- Ability to work on natural and liquefied gas
Disadvantages of AOGV boilers
- outdated automation on boilers of the Economy series
- it is difficult to find spare parts if they need to be replaced in case of a malfunction
- rather high price compared to
Boilers AOGV-11.6: product price
To date, the purchase of a single-circuit gas boiler of the Economy series will cost 11-12 thousand rubles, the Universal series of 13-14 thousand. Price is as of September 2014.
In this article, we have compiled instructions for boilers AOGV-11.6-3, dismantled the principle of operation, the main advantages and disadvantages, as well as specifications and prices. And in conclusion, let's see a short video review.
Price: 1300 rubles
Description Thermocouple for gas boiler AOGV-11.5 Dani:
Delivery for you anywhere in Russia . delivery. . Russian Post ().Product weight in package: 1 kg - specify for
Distinctive features Thermocouple for gas boiler AOGV-11.5 Dani:
In the shop heating equipment site You can buy a thermocouple for a gas boiler AOGV-11.5 Dani at a price of 1300 rubles!
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PURPOSE
The device is intended for heat supply of residential premises and buildings for communal use, equipped with water heating systems with a water column height in the water circuit of not more than 6.5 m.The device is designed for continuous operation on natural gas in accordance with GOST 5542-87.
The device is manufactured in UHL climatic version, category 4.2 according to GOST 15150-69.
| Characteristics | Safety Devices |
|
|
(See the connection diagram in this passport of the device)
SPECIFICATIONS
| Parameter or dimension name | Value | ||
| AOGV-11.6-1 | AOGV-17.4-1 | AOGV-23.2-1 | |
| 1. Fuel | Natural gas | ||
| 2. Nominal pressure of natural gas in front of the automation unit, Pa (mm water column) | 1274 (130) | ||
| Natural gas pressure range, mm.water column | 65…180* 1 | ||
| 3. Volume content of carbon monoxide in dry undiluted natural gas combustion products, %, not more than | 0,05 | ||
| 4. Efficiency of the device, % not less than | 89 | ||
| 5. Coolant | water | ||
| 6. Coolant parameters, no more than: | 0,1 |
||
| - absolute pressure, MPa; | |||
| - maximum temperature, ºС | 95 | ||
| - carbonate hardness, mg-eq/kg, no more | 0,7 | ||
| - content of suspended solids | is absent | ||
| 7. Rated thermal power automatic burner, kW (kcal/h) | 11,6 (10000) | 17,4 (15000) | 23,2 (20000) |
| 8. Gas inlet size: | |||
| - nominal diameter Du, mm | 15 | 20 | 20 |
| G 1/2 -B | G 3/4 -B | G 3/4 -B | |
| 9. Safety automation parameters | |||
| - gas supply shutdown time for pilot and main burners, sec |
|||
| - when the gas supply is interrupted or there is no flame on the pilot burner, no more |
60 | ||
| - in the absence of draft in the chimney, no more no less | 10 | ||
| 10. Vacuum in the chimney behind the apparatus, Pa | from 2.94 to 29.4 | ||
| mm. water. Art. | 0.3 to 3.0 | ||
| 11. Nominal passage of water connecting pipes Du, mm | 40 | 50 | 50 |
| - thread according to GOST 6357 - 81, inch | G 1 1/2 -B | G2-B | G2-B |
| 12. Mass of the device, kg, no more | 45 | 50 | 55 |
| 13. Heated area, m 2, no more | 90 | 140 | 190 |
| 14. Capacity of the heat exchanger tank, liter | 39,7 | 37,7 | 35 |
| 15. Maximum temperature combustion products leaving the chimney, ° С (at a gas pressure of 180 mm of water column) | 130 | 160 | 210 |
| *1 NOTE. The device is protected from emergency supply of inlet gas pressure up to 500 mm. water. Art. gas valve design. | |||
DEVICE AND PRINCIPLE OF WORK.
The device consists of the following components and parts: a heat exchanger tank, a main burner, an ignition burner block with a thermocouple and an ignition electrode installed in it, a combined gas valve (multifunctional regulator), a draft stabilizer, lining parts.
In the upper part of the tank - heat exchanger, a temperature controller sensor is installed, connected by a capillary tube to the thermostatic valve actuator ("bellows - thermoballoon" system), and a thermometer sensor
The design feature of the 630 EUROSIT combined valve is the presence of a device for stabilizing the outlet gas pressure, as well as the combination of valve control in one handle with the designation of the positions by the corresponding symbols and numbers on its end face and the pointer on the valve cover. The dependence of the temperature of the heated water on the position of the control knob scale is shown below:
The principle of operation of the temperature controller is based on the expansion of the liquid when heated. The working fluid, heated in the sensor (thermoballoon) from the water in the heat exchanger tank heated by the combustion of natural gas, expands and flows through the capillary tube into the bellows, which converts the volumetric expansion into a linear movement of the mechanism that drives the system of two valves (instantaneous and metering ). The design of the mechanism provides protection against thermal overload, which protects the "bellows - thermal bulb" system from damage and depressurization.
- When setting the desired water temperature in the apparatus with the control knob to increase, the instantaneous (click) valve first opens, then the dosing valve.
- When the water temperature in the device reaches the set value, the dosing valve is smoothly closed, switching the main burner to the "small gas" mode.
- When the temperature rises above the set value, an instantaneous (click) valve is activated, completely shutting off the gas to the main burner.
- In the absence of draft in the chimney, the exhaust gases from the furnace heat the draft sensor, the sensor is triggered by opening the normally closed contacts of the thermocouple circuit. The electromagnetic (inlet) valve closes and shuts off gas access to the main and pilot burners. The draft sensor is designed to operate during the absence of thrust for at least 10 seconds.
- When the gas supply from the network is interrupted, the pilot burner instantly goes out, the thermocouple cools down, the electromagnetic valve closes, blocking the gas access to the main and pilot burners. When the gas supply is resumed, the passage through the apparatus is completely blocked.
- When the gas pressure in the network drops below 0.65 kPa, the gas pressure on the pilot burner will also drop, the thermocouple EMF will drop to a value insufficient to hold the valve. The solenoid valve will close and cut off the gas supply to the burners.
POSITIONING AND INSTALLATION
Placement and installation of the apparatus, as well as gas supply to it, is carried out by a specialized construction and installation organization according to a project agreed with the operating enterprise (trust) of the gas facilities.
The room where the device is installed must have free access of air from the outside and a ventilation hood near the ceiling.
The temperature of the room where the device is installed must not be lower than +5 ºС.
The choice of a place for the installation of the device should be made in accordance with the instructions for the safety measures set out in section 7 of this passport.
The device is installed near fireproof walls at a distance of at least 10 cm from the wall.
- When installing the apparatus near a fire-resistant wall, its surface must be insulated with a steel sheet on an asbestos sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm, protruding 10 cm beyond the dimensions of the case. There must be a passage at least 1 meter wide in front of the apparatus.
- When installing the apparatus on a combustible floor, the floor must be insulated with a steel sheet over an asbestos sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm. The insulation should protrude 10 cm beyond the enclosure dimensions.
Before starting the installation, it is necessary to depreserve the device, check the correctness of its assembly in accordance with Fig. 1 and fig. 8 of this passport, and make sure that all parts and assembly units are securely and completely fixed.
Connect the device to the chimney, gas pipeline and pipes of the heating system. The connecting pipes of the pipelines must be exactly fitted to the location of the inlet fittings of the apparatus. Connection should not be accompanied by mutual tension of pipes and units of the apparatus.
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Persons who have studied this passport are allowed to service the device.
The installation and operation of the apparatus must comply with the requirements of the Rules for the Design and Safety of Operation of Hot Water Boilers, Water Heaters and Steam Boilers with Overpressure, as well as the requirements of the Safety Rules for Gas Distribution and Gas Consumption Systems. PB 12 - 529", approved by the Gosgortekhnadzor of Russia.
The operation of the devices must be carried out in accordance with the "Fire Safety Rules for residential buildings, hotels, hostels, buildings of administrative institutions and individual garages PPB - 01 - 03".
The operation of the device is allowed only with serviceable automatic safety and thermal control.
Gas safety automatics should provide:
- Reducing the gas supply when the water temperature reaches heating system set value.
- Shutdown of gas supply to the main burner when the set heating temperature is exceeded.
- Turn off the gas supply to the device in the following cases:
- when the gas supply to the apparatus is interrupted (for a time not exceeding 60 seconds);
- in the absence of draft depression or in the boiler furnace (for a time not less than 10 seconds and not more than 60 seconds);
- when the torch of the pilot burner goes out (for a time not exceeding 60 seconds).
During operation of the device, the temperature of hot water must not exceed 95 °C.
It is forbidden:
- operate the device with the heating system partially filled with water;
- use other liquids as a heat carrier instead of water**;
- install shut-off and control valves on the supply line and the pipeline connecting the heating system with expansion tank;
- operate the device in case of gas leakage through the gas pipeline connections;
- use an open flame to detect gas leaks;
- operate the device in case of a malfunction of the gas network, chimney or automation;
- independently troubleshoot the device;
- make any structural changes to the apparatus, gas pipeline and heating system.
When the machine is not in operation, all gas valves: in front of the burner and on the gas pipeline in front of the machine, must be in the closed position (the handle of the valve is perpendicular to the gas pipeline).
Any malfunctions during the operation of the apparatus on gas must be immediately reported to the emergency service of the operating enterprise of the gas economy.
If gas is found in a room, immediately stop its supply, ventilate all rooms and call an emergency or repair service. Until the malfunction is eliminated, it is forbidden to light matches in the room, smoke, use
** It is allowed to use household coolant "Olga" (manufacturer: CJSC "Plant of Organic Products") according to the instructions for use. After a period of operation, the coolant must be drained and disposed of.
The manufacturer reserves the right to make changes to the design and appearance products.
This technical documentation may differ from the description above, see the instruction manual enclosed with each boiler upon purchase.