Battery location. How to install heating batteries correctly according to the rules and regulations (SNiP). How to install a radiator with a wall-mounted variant

06.03.2020

The device or reconstruction of the heating system involves the installation or replacement of heating devices. The good news is that if you wish, you can do it yourself without involving specialists. How the installation of heating radiators should take place, where and how to locate them, what is needed for the work - all this is in the article.

What is needed for installation

Installation of heating radiators of any type requires devices and Supplies. Kit necessary materials almost the same, but for cast-iron batteries, for example, the plugs are large, and the Mayevsky tap is not installed, but, somewhere at the highest point of the system, an automatic air vent is installed. But the installation of aluminum and bimetallic heating radiators is absolutely the same.

Steel panel ones also have some differences, but only in terms of hanging - brackets are included with them, and on the back panel there are special shackles cast from metal, with which the heater clings to the hooks of the brackets.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

This is a small device for venting air that can accumulate in the radiator. It is placed on a free upper outlet (collector). Must be on every heater when installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators. The size of this device is much smaller than the diameter of the manifold, so another adapter is required, but Mayevsky taps usually come with adapters, you just need to know the diameter of the manifold (connecting dimensions).

In addition to the Mayevsky tap, there are also automatic air vents. They can also be placed on radiators, but they are slightly larger and for some reason are only available in a brass or nickel-plated case. Not in white enamel. In general, the picture is unattractive and, although they deflate automatically, they are rarely installed.

Stub

There are four outlets for the radiator with lateral connection. Two of them are occupied by the supply and return pipelines, on the third they put a Mayevsky crane. The fourth entrance is closed with a plug. It, like most modern batteries, is most often painted with white enamel and does not spoil at all. appearance.

Shut-off valves

You will need two more ball valves or shut-off valves with the ability to adjust. They are placed on each battery at the input and output. If these are ordinary ball valves, they are needed so that, if necessary, you can turn off the radiator and remove it (emergency repair, replacement during the heating season). In this case, even if something happened to the radiator, you will cut it off, and the rest of the system will work. The advantage of this solution is the low price of ball valves, the minus is the impossibility of adjusting heat transfer.

Almost the same tasks, but with the ability to change the intensity of the coolant flow, are performed by shut-off control valves. They are more expensive, but they also allow you to adjust the heat transfer (make it smaller), and they look better outwardly, they are available in straight and angular versions, so the strapping itself is more accurate.

If desired, you can put a thermostat on the coolant supply after the ball valve. This is a relatively small device that allows you to change the heat output of the heater. If the radiator does not heat well, they cannot be installed - it will be even worse, since they can only reduce the flow. There are different temperature controllers for batteries - automatic electronic, but more often they use the simplest - mechanical.

Related materials and tools

You will also need hooks or brackets for hanging on the walls. Their number depends on the size of the batteries:

if the sections are not more than 8 or the length of the radiator is not more than 1.2 m, two attachment points from above and one from below are sufficient;
for every next 50 cm or 5-6 sections, add one fastener at the top and bottom.

Takde need a fum tape or linen winding, plumbing paste to seal the joints. You will also need a drill with drills, a level (a level is better, but a regular bubble one is also suitable), a certain number of dowels. You will also need equipment for connecting pipes and fittings, but it depends on the type of pipes. That's all.

Where and how to place

Traditionally, heating radiators are installed under the window. This is necessary so that the rising warm air cuts off the cold from the window. In order to prevent the glass from sweating, the width of the heater must be at least 70-75% of the width of the window. It needs to be installed:

How to install

Now about how to hang the radiator. It is highly desirable that the wall behind the radiator be flat - it is easier to work this way. The middle of the opening is marked on the wall, a horizontal line is drawn 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the upper edge of the heater is leveled. The brackets must be installed so that the upper edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal. This arrangement is suitable for heating systems with forced circulation (with a pump) or for apartments. For systems with natural circulation, a slight slope is made - 1-1.5% - along the course of the coolant. You can’t do more - there will be stagnation.

wall mount

This must be taken into account when mounting hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed like dowels - a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled in the wall, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heater is easily adjusted by screwing and unscrewing the hook body.

Hooks for cast iron batteries are thicker. This is fasteners for aluminum and bimetallic

When installing hooks for heating radiators, please note that the main load falls on the top fasteners. The lower one serves only for fixing in a given position relative to the wall and it is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to hang the radiator.

When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation site, look where the bracket will “fit”, mark the place on the wall. After putting the battery, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, the bracket is screwed onto the screws. Having installed all the fasteners, the heater is hung on them.

Floor fixing

Not all walls can hold even light aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of or sheathed with drywall, floor installation is required. Some types of cast-iron and steel radiators come with legs right away, but they do not suit everyone in terms of appearance or characteristics.

Floor installation of radiators from aluminum and bimetallic is possible. There are special brackets for them. They are attached to the floor, then a heater is installed, the lower collector is fixed with an arc on the installed legs. Similar legs are available with adjustable height, there are fixed ones. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - on nails or dowels, depending on the material.

Heating radiator piping options

Installation of heating radiators involves their connection to pipelines. There are three main connection methods:

saddle;
unilateral;
diagonal.

If you install radiators and bottom connection, you have no choice. Each manufacturer strictly ties the supply and return, and its recommendations must be strictly followed, because otherwise you simply won’t get heat. With a side connection, there are more options ().

Binding with one-way connection

One-way connection is most often used in apartments. It can be two-pipe or one-pipe (the most common option). Metal pipes are still used in apartments, so we will consider the option of tying the radiator with steel pipes on the spurs. In addition to pipes of a suitable diameter, two ball valves, two tees and two spurs are needed - parts with external threads at both ends.

All this is connected as shown in the photo. With a single-pipe system, a bypass is required - it allows you to turn off the radiator without stopping or lowering the system. You can’t put a tap on the bypass - you will block the movement of the coolant along the riser with it, which is unlikely to please the neighbors and, most likely, you will fall under a fine.

All threaded connections are sealed with fum-tape or linen winding, on top of which packing paste is applied. When screwing the tap into the radiator manifold, a lot of winding is not required. Too much of it can lead to the appearance of microcracks and subsequent destruction. This is true for almost all types of heating appliances, except for cast iron. When installing all the rest, please, without fanaticism.

If you have the skills / ability to use welding, you can weld the bypass. This is what the piping of radiators in apartments usually looks like.

With a two-pipe system, a bypass is not needed. The supply is connected to the upper entrance, the return is connected to the lower one, taps, of course, are needed.

With lower wiring (pipes are laid along the floor), this type of connection is made very rarely - it turns out inconvenient and ugly, it is much better to use a diagonal connection in this case.

Binding with diagonal connection

Installation of heating radiators with a diagonal connection is the most best option in terms of heat transfer. She is the highest in this case. With a lower wiring, this type of connection is implemented easily (example in the photo) - supply from one side at the top, return from the other at the bottom.

A single pipe system with vertical risers (in apartments) does not look so good, but people put up with it because of the higher efficiency.

Please note that with a one-pipe system, a bypass is again required.

Strapping with saddle connection

With lower wiring or hidden pipes, installing heating radiators in this way is the most convenient and most inconspicuous.

With saddle connection and bottom single-pipe wiring, there are two options - with and without bypass. Without a bypass, the taps are still installed, if necessary, you can remove the radiator, and install a temporary jumper between the taps - a drive (a piece of pipe of the desired length with threads at the ends).

With vertical wiring (risers in high-rise buildings), this type of connection can be seen infrequently - too large heat losses (12-15%).

Video tutorials on installing heating radiators

There are two types of radiators according to their mounting location - floor and wall, therefore, the second option implies that a certain installation height of the radiator from the floor must be observed, which will allow it to be connected to the heating system without any problems.

Bimetallic radiators - section height 570 mm can be used on the loggia

It should be said right away that if you are waiting for clear instructions on this parameter, then this is in vain, since they simply do not exist, and mainly depends on the installation of the heating circuit, and on the height of the window sills and, in the end, on the height of the section itself . Although, it cannot be said that this parameter does not matter, which is what we suggest you understand now, as well as watch the video in this article.

Installation of technical pipelines and equipment

Recommendation. When installing the system, if the dimensions of the heating radiators in height and length allow them to be installed under windows, then do just that.
The battery under the window creates something like a thermal curtain that limits the movement of cold air flows from the side of the glass.

At what height from the floor to install radiators, it is laid down when wiring the heating circuit, and it also depends on whether you have an embedded circulation pump. If the system is to work without coercion, then it is quite natural that there should be a slope along the pipes, which means that you need to leave room for the slope of the return pipe if the system is two-pipe, or the supply pipe if it is one-pipe.
In the "Leningrad" (single-pipe system for 3-4 radiators), the batteries are also arranged with a decrease, since in such cases they do not make a special outlet for the heater - the circuit passes directly through them with a lower side connection.
Different systems and installation imply that if you step back from the floor by 10-15 cm, then the installation height of heating radiators according to SNiP 3.05.05-84 (“ Technological equipment and pipelines") will be quite normal for any circuits. More precisely, the circuit itself should be mounted so that it is possible to comply with these parameters.

What are the contours

By and large, there are two types of radiator circuits - one-pipe and two-pipe, and everything else is already a modification of the existing system, whether it's a mixed one (warm floor - radiators) or a collector heating system. In any of these cases, the instruction requires the use of either one or the other circuit, just various additions are made there in the form of plumbing equipment in the form of three-way or four-way taps and combs.

If a single-pipe system is used, as in the upper schematic image, then the entire coolant is looped in one pipe - it leaves the boiler for supply, and it also comes back, transporting already chilled water for heating.

On the way, radiators crash into it, and the type of connection here does not matter at all - under column, thermal or forced pressure, water, passing by the bends, enters them and passes through the battery, returning back to the pipe.

The problem here is that the coolant, having passed through the heater, already loses its previous temperature, therefore, it goes further already slightly cooled down and the more devices in such a system, the colder they will be, moving away from the boiler.

In order to be able to dismantle the radiator during the heating season without draining the water, a bypass is installed in front of it - this is a pipe that loops the system and it is clearly visible in the top photo, and they put it in front of the battery stop valves.

In addition to helping in dismantling, the bypass also partially contributes to maintaining the temperature of the coolant, because water, passing through it, does not enter the radiator. But in multi-storey buildings, this device is sometimes used incorrectly - they put a tap on it and shut it off, passing the entire flow through the radiator, therefore, those who live further away get colder water.

In a two-pipe system, there are no problems with cooling, or rather, it is, but it depends only on the length of the pipe itself and, in general, it turns out to be so insignificant that they don’t even pay attention to it - they are protected by thermal insulation in the lines and there the losses are also minimal.

The thing is that the hot coolant flows through the pipe to all radiators, but the cooled water that has passed through the battery does not return back, but is discharged into the return pipe, thus maintaining the original temperature throughout the entire circuit, no matter how many points there are .

But there is one caveat - the price for installation and operation will be slightly higher, since, firstly, a second pipe is added and, secondly, more water has to be heated, and the parameters of the device do not matter, this may be the height of the heating radiators 250 mm or 1200 mm - it doesn't matter.

Note. If there is a need to jointly connect radiators and a floor heating system, then a two-pipe system is used, but a thermostatic three-way valve is installed in front of the water floor circuit, which redistributes the coolant depending on its temperature.

Installation rules

All four radiator connection schemes that you see in the upper image are applicable for both one-pipe and two-pipe heating systems - the method you will use depends more on the location of the circuit.

However, in autonomous single-pipe heating systems, preference is given to either the lower or lower side connection, but this is simply due to ease of installation and nothing more. In addition, your choice may be influenced by the height of aluminum radiators (or other metal) - as we said, it all comes down to ergonomics.

If you have chosen heating radiators with a height of 800 mm, then in 99% of cases, they will not fit under the window, since you need to retreat not only from the floor, but also from the window sill, at least 10 cm, so such heaters are more often used as warm decorations on the walls.

Therefore, the most common height of bimetallic heating radiators is 600 mm - this way you will be able to maintain the distance from the floor to the window sill, although nothing prevents you from also using appliances 400 or 500 mm high.

In addition, when installing a heating unit under a window, you need to take into account not only at what height to hang heating radiators, but also to retreat from the wall so that the gap is at least ¾ of the depth of the device - otherwise the heat transfer will be greatly underestimated.

And once again I would like to return to the height - if you succeed, then try to withstand 12 cm from the floor, but remember that if this distance is less than 10 cm or more than 15 cm, then again you will greatly underestimate the effect of heat transfer ..

In the case when the installation does not take place under the windows, for example, floor installation of appliances, as in the top photo (here the height of the heating radiators is 400 mm), then at least 20 cm should be retreated from the wall.

Conclusion

In most cases, mounting water heating with their own hands, everyone is trying to place heating devices under the windows, therefore, they use their most common height - 500-600 mm. But that doesn't mean you have to stick to those standards.

Lost battery? Do you want to replace an old bulky cast-iron battery with a compact and more economical bimetallic one?

Installing heating radiators is an inexpensive and sure way to return heat to your home!

Installing a heating radiator

Before starting work, consider some of the nuances:

Before replacing the battery, the water must be turned off only in the customer's apartment, and not in the whole house.

Water should be blocked only by ZhEK employees who have the appropriate qualifications for this. Even when replacing the battery with your own hands, entrust this task to specialists. Otherwise, you risk leaving without water supply all the residents whose apartments are located along the riser.

Battery replacement, ideally, should also be carried out by employees of the housing office or workers specially hired for this. If the removal and installation by the customer were carried out independently, then all responsibility for the serviceability of the system lies with him.

Installation and replacement of the battery when using the pipe bending method and gas welding work, instead of the usual installation system, must also be carried out by workers with certain qualifications for high-level work.

Selection and installation of radiators of various types

On the market today are radiators made of cast iron, aluminum, steel, as well as bimetallic radiators. How to choose the right one among them?

Cast iron radiators

Modern cast-iron radiators are no longer the bulky accordions that we are used to seeing in Khrushchevs and most Soviet apartments. Today they look like flat panels with smoothed corners and presentable appearance. Due to its physical properties, cast iron, when heated, retains heat for a long time, gradually giving it to the room.

Advantages: improved heat transfer, service life of about 25-50 years. Disadvantages: heavy weight (one section of a cast-iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore, the installation of cast-iron heating radiators is not possible in a number of rooms, the walls of which are made of wood or, for example, drywall. The only option for mounting a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Disadvantages: a lot of weight (one section of a cast-iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore, the installation of cast-iron heating radiators is impossible in a number of rooms, the walls of which are made of wood or, for example, drywall. The only option for mounting a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Manufacturers: Model MS-140 or the so-called "accordion" is an eternal classic, well known to all of us. Transformed cast iron radiators can be found in the catalogs of VIADRUS (Czech Republic), ROCA (Spain) and FERROLI (Italy), as well as domestic manufacturers - CHAZ (Cheboksary Aggregate Plant) or MZOO (Belarus). Price: from $8 per section.

Aluminum radiators

By design, modern aluminum radiators differ little from cast iron ones. However, a significant difference between them is the weight of the radiator sections.

Advantages: good heat transfer performance, the presence of ventilation windows that evenly distribute warm air throughout the room, the weight of the sections (only 1 kg!), smooth surface, can be fixed on any surface.

Disadvantages: susceptibility to the chemical composition of water, pressure surges in the pipeline.

Manufacturers: Due to the fact that a small radiator can heat a relatively large area, on the market you can find models from 80-100 mm deep and center-to-center distance from 300 to 800 mm, and the number of sections in the radiator from 4 to 16. Italian-made models are more common: radiators firms FONDITAL, DECORAL, RAGALL, FARAL, as well as a number of radiators of domestic production - SMK (Stupino) and MMZiK (Mias). Price: from $12 per section.

Bimetal radiators

We can say that this type of radiator is a compromise between cast iron and aluminum. Externally, bimetallic radiators are difficult to distinguish from aluminum ones, however, such products are not sensitive to the composition of water and changes in pressure. The universal design of such heating radiators directs hot water through steel pipes, giving off heat to aluminum panels, and they heat the air in the room. Installation of a heating radiator of this type is the best option both in price and in terms of the physical properties of the product.

Advantages: weight, advanced battery design, good heat dissipation performance.

Disadvantages: not yet discovered.

Manufacturers: On the market you can find products mainly from Italian (SIRA, GLOBAL) and Czech manufacturers (ARMATHERMAL). Of the domestic radiators, RIFAR (Gai, Orenburg region), TsVELIT-R (Ryazan) and SANTEKHPROM (Moscow) are rightfully considered the best. Price: from $15 per section.

Steel radiators

Based on the above general rules the location of the radiator relative to the window, mark the mounting locations.

If necessary, cover the surface of the wall with heat-reflecting material and fix the brackets to the wall (be sure to use a level to determine the horizontal, as well as a tape measure to determine the length of the bracket entering the wall).

Fix the radiator to the brackets by placing their hooks between the battery sections.
Connect the radiator to a centralized or autonomous space heating system according to the selected connection scheme.

Installation of aluminum radiators can be made both in one- and two-pipe heating systems with horizontal or vertical pipelines. These radiators can also be used for heating rooms with natural and forced circulation of hot water. Today, the market can offer two options for aluminum radiators:

Reinforced radiators with working pressure up to 16 atm. Such batteries are used for heating high-rise residential and non-residential buildings. For heating a private house, the use of this type of radiators is unjustified due to the high cost of the sections.

European type of aluminum radiators, designed for space heating with autonomous heating systems. The maximum working pressure in such radiators is no more than 6 atm.

The installation kit for aluminum radiators consists of:

automatic or manual air release valve (the so-called Mayevsky valve);
plugs (right or left thread);
sealing gaskets;
racks or brackets;
shut-off or thermostatic valves.

Installation of cast iron radiators

The installation of cast-iron radiators is basically the same as the installation of aluminum radiators. In the case of cast iron products, it is important, however, not to overload the wall, and also pay more attention to torque moments. Cast iron radiators are recommended to be installed at a slight slope so that hot air(this can lead to a decrease in the heat output of the device).

Cast iron radiators also have an assembly system that is different from others: before installing such a radiator, you need to unscrew it, tighten the nipples and reassemble the radiator together. floor stands. At the same time, wall mounts are also performed, however, they perform only a supporting function.

Installation of bimetallic radiators

The advantages of installing bimetallic radiators, rather than cast iron or aluminum, are that they weigh relatively little and, provided that they are not inferior to aluminum in terms of heat transfer, bimetallic radiators are able to operate smoothly even at high pressure in the system. The installation method, as well as general recommendations for installing such heating devices, are indicated in the instructions for the product.

IMPORTANT! Pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the use of pipes made of one or another material in combination with bimetallic radiators. So, for example, for most houses, only metal pipes are installed, and metal-plastic can only stand in private houses, whose heating system works at high pressure.

$ The cost of installing heating radiators

The cost of installing a radiator will directly depend on the material of the product, the number of installed sections for one heating point, as well as the total number of heating points installed in the apartment. The total amount of installation costs will be affected by the connection scheme and the cost of the components necessary for the work. Of course, you can do such work with your own hands. However, this will place on you all responsibility for the system's performance, as well as for all possible negative consequences associated with its breakdown. So, how much does installing a radiator cost? On average, all work on the arrangement of one heating point in an apartment can drag on $ 40-50.

Radiator installation:

Kyiv - 250-350 UAH. for a point;
Moscow - 2,650-3,000 rubles. for a point.
The cost of work on the supply or replacement of heating pipes is calculated separately.

Installation of radiators: VIDEO

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: VIDEO

Performing independent installation of the heating system, among other issues, we need to decide at what distance from the wall to hang the radiator. Although this aspect may not seem important enough to some, in fact, the efficiency of the system largely depends on compliance with the installation parameters.

In our article, we will explain why it is necessary to monitor the distance from the battery to surfaces, and also give recommendations for installing the radiator on the wall or on the floor.

Importance of respecting installation parameters

Heating appliances, as their name implies, are installed in a room to heat it. At the same time, for most radiator-type models, heat radiation is characteristic of the entire surface, which imposes certain restrictions on the installation.

As a rule, the distance from the wall to the heating radiator is from 25 to 60 mm. This value is determined, in fact, by two parameters: the fundamental possibility of installation (the size of the window sill, the dimensions of the niche, etc.), as well as the power of the device.

Note!
The more powerful the device and the higher its heat transfer, the greater should be the gap between the rear surface and the wall.

Installing the battery close to the wall is not recommended, and here's why:

Firstly, for efficient heat exchange between the radiator material and air, it is necessary to provide at least a minimum level of circulation. In a small gap, the air remains almost motionless, and therefore part of the heat is lost.
Secondly, in the too narrow space between back wall the radiator and the wall surface are constantly kept at a high temperature. Because of this, the level of heat dissipation decreases, the battery wall overheats, and the device fails earlier.

Note!
This is important for both water radiators and electric heaters.
In the former, with constant overheating, corrosion is activated, in the latter, the risk of a short circuit increases.

Finally, a narrow gap is very quickly clogged with dust, which can be extremely inconvenient to remove during cleaning.. If you leave the dust where it has accumulated, then overheating and problems with heat dissipation will begin to appear fairly quickly.

It is on the basis of these considerations that experts decide what distance between the wall and the radiator must be maintained. Well, how to put it into practice, we will tell below.

Mounting technique

wall variant

When doing installation work with your own hands, it is much easier to fix the battery on the wall. This task is less labor intensive than floor mounting, but at the same time all operations must be performed very high quality.

The installation process itself includes the following steps:

Stage of work	Operations in progress
Site preparation	Select the location where the battery will be mounted. As a rule, heating radiators are placed under window sills or along walls, at some distance from front door- so we will ensure the most uniform distribution of heat flows. We bring communications - or electrical wires connected as a separate circuit through an RCD. We glue the wall behind the radiator with a polymer-based foil heat-insulating material, which will act as a thermal mirror.
markup	We apply markings on the surface for installing the battery (in principle, this must be taken into account when buying a radiator, but duplication will not be superfluous here): From the floor to the bottom edge - 80-100 mm. From the top edge to the window sill - 80 - 100 mm. Width - no more than 80% of the window width.
Fastener installation	According to the markings in the bearing surface, we drill nests for installing fasteners. We hammer plastic or metal dowels into the nests. We screw the fasteners in such a way that the penetration into the thickness of the wall is at least 60 mm.
Radiator installation	We hang the battery on the brackets, fix it if necessary and carefully align it. We connect the radiator to communications and, if possible, perform a test run. It is especially important to check the tightness of the connections for water batteries, since in apartment buildings at the beginning of the heating season, “unpleasant surprises” are possible.

As you can see, the instructions are not complicated, but you need to control the quality of the work at each stage.

floor version

Sometimes the battery is too heavy to hang on the wall - there is a risk that the material simply can not stand it. In this case, installation is carried out using floor brackets. Yes, the price of such products will be slightly higher than that of wall mounts, however, the safety margin is incomparable.

The installation process itself involves the following steps:

Choose a pair of brackets that have enough load capacity to support the weight of the battery.
We install racks on the base of the floor, which we fix with anchors. We select the distance from the wall in such a way that the minimum gap between it and the mounted radiator is 60 mm.

Advice!
It is better to mount the floor brackets before pouring the screed - so we can mask the attachment point.

We fill the screed, hiding the bases of the brackets and the caps of the fixing anchors.
We put hooks on the racks, which we set to the desired height and fix with bolts. If the product package provides for this, we install metal gaskets that will protect the radiator material at the point of contact with the hook.
We hang the radiator on the hooks, which we then carefully align.

Despite the great complexity of implementation, this system has obvious advantages: the load from the battery is transferred not to the wall, but to the floor, so the risk of loose fasteners is minimal.

Conclusion

It is possible to provide the distance between the wall and the heating radiator necessary for effective heat transfer different ways. At the same time, it is important to make this gap sufficient so that the air in the gap circulates freely, making the heating of the room as efficient as possible. For a more detailed study of the technique, you should watch the video in this article.

Heating in an apartment is the right and inexpensive way to return heat to your apartment. Moreover, it cannot be called complex process, it is only important to observe all the nuances of installation and installation rules.

Battery connection examples.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, you need to consider some of the nuances:

Connecting the battery can be entrusted to a qualified specialist who will do all the work quickly and efficiently.

It is not worth replacing the battery on your own, but it is better to entrust this matter to a specialist, who bears all responsibility for further malfunctions in the operation of the radiator. In addition, when replacing with your own hands, there are risks of leaving without water all the residents of the house, whose apartments are located along the riser. Water before work in the apartment should be blocked only by employees of the housing office who have the appropriate qualifications.
If the pipe bending method and gas welding work are used during installation and replacement, then the work must also be carried out by workers with a certain qualification for carrying out work with increased safety.

Radiator selection

Present on the market today wide range of radiators, designed for different customers. The principle “the more expensive the better” does not always work here. You need to make your choice based on the following reasons:

place of residence;
heating system wiring;
on how it will be necessary to install heating radiators;
temperature regime in the heating system;
accounting for what material was used in the production of pipes;
the need for control elements and fittings;
the location of the premises in the building.

Having produced this analysis, you can proceed to battery selection.

Today, cast-iron radiators can look quite presentable, they can be decorated. Thus, they can easily fit into the overall design of the room.

Cast-iron radiators of the modern type are no longer the huge accordions that were in the Soviet apartment, but flat panels with smoothed corners and a presentable appearance. Having good physical properties heating, cast iron retains heat for a long time and gradually releases it into the room. Such radiators have a long service life, 20-50 years. The main disadvantage is the large weight (one section weighs about 8 kg), so it is impossible to mount them correctly in rooms where the walls are made of wood, drywall. Having a rough surface, they are not very easy to clean.

Aluminum radiators differ little in design from cast iron ones, the only difference is the weight of the sections (1 kg). Also, these devices have good qualities heat transfer, smooth surface, ventilation windows evenly distribute air in the room, they can be fixed on any surface. The main disadvantage is easy perception chemical composition water and pressure surges in the pipeline.

Bimetal radiators are a compromise solution between cast iron and aluminum. Outwardly, they almost do not differ from aluminum ones, but they are not sensitive to the composition of water and pressure surges. They have good heat transfer performance, are easy to install and inexpensive.

Steel radiators have a panel appearance and a relief surface. Have a variety of connection options, good thermal properties. No major deficiencies were identified.

Radiator Installation Rules

Before replacing, you need to coordinate with the specialists the installation scheme, which will allow you to correctly perform installation work and heat the room efficiently. It is necessary to follow the sequence of actions:

Turn off the water in the apartment and at a specific site.
Drain the water from the area to be replaced.
Blow out the pipes and remove the remaining water.
Install a new battery according to the installation instructions and the manufacturer's recommendations.
After installation, test the system for leaks and operation of the radiator sections.

Attention! When choosing a radiator, consider the temperature heating power, the area for normal heating with a certain number of sections, and the operating pressure of the coolant.

Rules for installing a radiator in accordance with SNiP

Installation of radiators in the room must be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.05.01-85.

There must be at least 2 cm from the radiator to the wall.

The norm for installing radiators correctly involves mounting the battery relative to the center of the window: the center of the window and the battery must match, with an error of no more than 2 cm.
The width of the battery should be equal to 50-70% of the width of the window sill.
The height of the battery above the floor should not be more than 12 cm from the finished floor, the distance from the top edge of the battery to the window sill should not be more than 5 cm.
The distance from the radiator to the wall is 2-5 cm. As an exception, a special treatment of the wall with a heat-reflecting material can serve.

Attention! Do not install the radiator too close to the floor and wall, as this affects the heat transfer performance. In single-pipe heating systems, it is impossible to use more sections than before. In systems with artificial water circulation, if the number of sections is more than 24, a versatile method of connecting heating devices must be used during installation.

Rules for installing aluminum radiators

Correctly assemble the radiator by screwing in the radiator plugs with gaskets, install thermostatic valves, shutoff valves, Mayevsky valve.
Guided by the general rules for the location of the radiator relative to the window, mark the attachment points.
If necessary, cover the surface of the wall with heat-reflecting material and attach the brackets to the wall.
Fasten the radiator to the brackets, placing the hooks between the sections, and connect it to a centralized or room.

mount aluminum radiators it is possible both in one-pipe and in two-pipe heating systems with vertical and horizontal pipelines. Today's market can offer two types of aluminum radiators: reinforced radiators with pressure up to 16 atm., which are used for heating high-rise buildings, and European aluminum radiators no more than 6 atm., used for heating in autonomous heating systems.

Rules for the installation of cast iron and bimetallic radiators

The process is not much different from the installation of aluminum. It is important here not to overload the wall, but it is recommended to install them at a slight slope so that hot air does not accumulate inside the battery, which leads to low heat transfer from the device.

Before installation, you need to unscrew the radiator correctly, tighten the nipples, and put everything back together again. AT wooden houses, having a weaker wall structure, it is provided for mounting not on brackets, but on floor stands, while mounting on the wall has a supporting function.

The heat supply system is an integral part engineering systems installed in every home. And its arrangement must be treated with special attention. This also applies to the assembly of pipelines, and hanging heating radiators. After all, even a small malfunction can lead to global consequences, so it is important to know how to properly hang a heating radiator.

Work on the installation of radiators must begin with the definition of their connection scheme. In practice, 3 methods are used, they are defined by building codes:

Side. They are used very often, since it is he who provides the maximum thermal return.
Diagonal. Most effective when connecting long heaters.
Bottom connection. They are used for heat supply systems from pipes, which are placed directly under the floor covering.

Instructions for installing heating radiators

After the connection diagrams are determined and heating batteries are purchased, it is necessary to find and carefully study SNiP 3.05.01 - 85. It sets out the requirements for installing heating radiators. Most manufacturing companies attach detailed instructions for installing heaters to their products. If you follow the requirements of regulatory and operational documentation, then problems with the installation of radiators should not arise.

The main requirement is compliance with the dimensions of fixing the heating battery relative to the floor and wall. Otherwise, the heated air will not circulate well, and the work efficiency will thermal device will fall heavily. Requirements normative documentation it is determined that the distance to the inner surface of the window sill and to floor covering should not be less than 100 mm. Practice shows that 120 mm will be optimal.

Distance from inner wall niches to the rear surface of the radiator should not be less than ¾ of the depth of the mounted battery. If the specified dimensions are not respected, then, as already noted, the efficiency heat flow will decrease. If the heater is not mounted in a niche located under the window, but directly next to the wall, then the marked distances should not be less than 200 mm. Neglect of the established indicators will lead to difficulty in movement warm air and accumulation of dust on the back wall.

What tool is needed for installation work

In order to carry out the work of installing a heating battery, it is necessary to carry out a little preparatory work and prepare a tool.

Useful for installation:

perforator;
drill (its diameter is determined by the size of the dowel into which the bracket will be screwed);
roulette;
building level;
locksmith tool.

The procedure for assembling a heating radiator

Before starting the installation of the battery, it is necessary to determine the installation location of the fasteners. The number of fasteners is determined by the dimensions of the heater. But even when installing a radiator with minimum dimensions, the number of attachment points should not be less than three.

The next step is to install the battery mounting brackets. To increase the reliability of the system, dowels or cement mortar can be used. Work on installing the battery must begin with checking the complete set of the radiator. Then you can proceed to install the components (plugs, fasteners, adapters) on the heating device.

The requirements of regulatory documentation determine that automatic air vents must be installed on heating radiators. If possible, it is advisable to use a Mayevsky crane.

Crane "Mayevsky"

In addition to the installed devices on the heating radiator, it makes sense to mount ball valves at the inlet and outlet. Their presence will avoid difficulties with dismantling if necessary to repair it. By closing the taps, the radiator can be safely removed.

It will not be superfluous to install thermostats. Their presence will allow you to regulate the heat supply to the heating devices, which will create a comfortable temperature in each room.

After installing all the devices and fittings, you can connect the pipelines. The method of their connection to the radiator (traditional welding, crimping or threaded connection) depends on the scheme for including it in the heat supply system. The type of connection between the pipes and the battery is determined by the material from which they are made.

On the last step the heating system needs to be tested. It must be remembered that during the tests, pipes and radiators are supplied with pressure 1.5-2 times higher than the nominal pressure. It is advisable to keep the system under high blood pressure. This will help installers see how pipe joints and radiator connections behave.

Important! The coolant must be supplied both during tests and when the system is started, gradually opening the tap. Otherwise, a phenomenon such as water hammer can be provoked, which can lead to the destruction of the components of the thermal energy supply system.

After mounting the radiator on the installed fasteners, it is necessary to check the correctness of its placement in the horizontal and vertical planes.

It is allowed to raise the edge of the radiator, on which the air vent is located. This will ensure that the air that has entered the system is collected at the highest possible point, and its release will be carried out quickly and with maximum efficiency.

But a change in level of more than one centimeter is unacceptable, as well as a reverse slope. In this case, the formation of an air pocket is guaranteed, and the supply of coolant further along the pipeline will be limited or stopped.

Advice! Almost all heating companies require installers to install only on pre-prepared walls. That is, the surface must be smooth and clean. This will allow for correct markup places for fasteners.

The heating radiator is hung on two hooks (brackets), which are located in the upper part, and the third must be installed as a support for the lower edge of the device. The installer must remember that the number of brackets is determined by the weight and length of the battery.

Installing batteries is an important process that affects the performance of the entire heating system of a private house or apartment. It is necessary to pay attention not only to the quality of plumbing connections, but also to compliance with air gaps to the window sill, floor and walls. Read more about this in our article.

Radiator mounting

The modern market for buyers has a large selection of different materials and options for radiators.

According to the methods of fastening, they are all divided into the following groups:

floor standing- equipped with small legs, installed directly on the floor of the premises. This option allows you to guarantee the required thermal clearance to the window sill and the lower horizontal surfaces of the rooms.
Mounted- fastened directly to metal brackets fixed in the outer walls of a house or apartment.

The required distance from the wall to the heating radiator is best provided for products mounted on the vertical surfaces of the room, which is ensured by the special shape of the brackets. At floor types this parameter must be adjusted by yourself.

Influence of the gap between the wall and the radiator

Many novice home craftsmen do not understand the importance of the need to adjust the mandatory gap between the batteries and the outer walls. This ultimately leads to a significant increase in unreasonable costs for heating the house. Let's dwell on the problem in more detail.

The outer wall is in constant contact with the surrounding air, which leads to significant cooling. In the event that the radiators are fixed directly on the inner surface of the supporting structures, the main part of the heat will not be spent on heating the air during indoor areas at home, but for heating the material of the walls.

The low thermal insulation properties of concrete products will not allow maintaining an acceptable internal microclimate. Up to 70% of thermal energy in the case when the distance between the wall and the heating radiator will be minimally spent on heating the atmosphere. Therefore, by moving the heater a short distance, they create the necessary air insulation, which reduces unreasonable expenses.

How to determine the required distance

Many construction works, carried out inside residential premises, are regulated by building codes and regulations (SNiPs). There is also a SNiP for the installation of heating batteries.

From it you can not only find out what distance between the wall and the radiator must be observed, but also other parameters for its installation:

the device should be placed directly under the windows so that the centers of the opening and the battery coincide;
the width of the heater should not exceed 70% of the width of the window sill niche, if any;
the distance to the floor should not exceed 12 cm, to the windowsill - 5 cm;
the distance to the wall lies within 2-5 cm.

There are several parameters that affect the choice of the optimal clearance. Most often, it is influenced by the material of the walls of the house and the size of the window sills. In some rooms, an unsightly picture can be observed when the batteries protrude significantly beyond its limits.

Note!
A significant reduction in the gap between the wall and appliances of heating systems is facilitated by additional surface treatment of vertical structures with special heat-reflecting materials, the price of which is affordable.
These include foil insulation or aluminum foil screens.

Installation of a heating radiator

The main way to adjust the required distance to the walls is the high-quality and competent installation of heating devices with your own hands or with the help of specialists. Let's dwell on this aspect in more detail.

Installation of floor views

This mounting option is optimal for products that have a high mass and are most often made of cast iron. Such batteries are equipped with removable or stationary legs, which are fixed to the floor. Depending on the base material, fastening can be carried out with wood screws, self-tapping screws and plastic dowels, dowel-nails.

A wall bracket is also a necessary element for mounting a floor heater. It is set to the required height, which is determined as the desired distance from the floor to the upper longitudinal pipe of the radiator, taking into account the gap. With the help of fasteners and marking the places of their installation, they achieve the optimal distance to the floor, wall and window sill.

We hang a wall radiator

Each heater is equipped with one or another type of suspension used for installation on walls. The material and strength characteristics of the brackets must correspond to the mass of the heating room, taking into account its filling with coolant. Otherwise, the system may leak.

Before direct installation, it is necessary to determine the installation location and the required distances to the main surfaces.

To do this, perform the following steps:

Let's determine the center of the window and apply the markup to the wall to be aligned with the center of the radiator in the future.
Let's measure the distance from the lower edge of the batteries to the top pipe and add 12 cm. We set aside this size from the floor at the places where the brackets are installed, checking the horizontalness of the attachment points according to the level.
In the places where the hangers are installed, we drill holes with a Pobedite drill, install dowels in them and fix the brackets with self-tapping screws.

Note!
A similar instruction is attached to each package of sold radiators.
Differences may lie in the specific type of suspensions and the features of their installation.

Summing up

As part of this article, we examined at what distance from the wall to hang a radiator, what it affects and how it is carried out directly during the installation of the heating system. For more information on this topic, see the video in this article.

In order for the heating system to work with the greatest heat transfer, it is important not only to select highly efficient equipment, but also to mount it with high quality. Great importance It has correct installation radiators. And here there can be no trifles, you need to withstand all the parameters: the angle of inclination, the choice of the mounting system, but it is especially important to consider what the distance from the wall to the radiator should be.

Why is it important to observe the dimensions of the gap between the radiator and the wall

When installing the heating system, you must adhere to the following scheme: the more powerful the radiator in terms of its thermal characteristics, the wider the gap to the wall will be. As a rule, its value is from 2.5 cm to 6 cm.

Specific dimensions are made up of two parameters:

real possibility of installation (window sill width, niche dimensions);
heater power.

If foil heat-reflecting material is glued to the wall, the distance can be minimal (2.5 cm - 3 cm).

It is not recommended to install the heater close to the wall for many reasons:

to ensure free heat transfer from the entire surface of the radiator, conditions must be created for free air circulation around the device, if you put the radiator close to the wall, this process will be disrupted, heat will be partially lost;
when the radiator is “pressed” against the wall, a high temperature level will constantly be kept on its back surface, as a result, the device will fail faster due to overheating;
debris and dust will accumulate in the narrow gap between the radiator and the wall, which will also impede heat transfer;
if a heat-reflecting plate is not glued, the radiator will “wastelessly” heat the outer walls, and they are usually concrete in apartment buildings and have low thermal insulation properties.

Important. Due to the incorrectly set distance to the wall, both the water radiator and the electric one will overheat. Moreover, the electric one has a risk of short circuit, and the water ones will be subject to corrosion. Naturally, the dimensions of heating radiators in height and length must be taken into account in advance, at the design stage.

The distance from the floor to the heating radiator is also kept optimal for each heater. Thus, the correct installation of the radiator is important for efficient space heating.

How to install a radiator with a wall-mounted variant

Making mounting a battery with a wall mount is easier than with floor version. Here it is important to know not only the size of the gap to the wall, but also the height of the heating radiators from the floor.

Installation steps for the wall-mounted version:

Start by preparing the attachment site. Wall-mounted radiators are usually placed under window sills or attached to walls away from the front door in order to rationally distribute the heat flow. First, a heating circuit pipe is brought to the installation site of the radiator. The wall, which is located behind the radiator, is pasted over with a foil heat insulator. It will reflect heat back into the room.
It is necessary to make a preliminary markup where the radiator will be mounted. The following parameters are maintained: the distance from the floor to the radiator (lower edge) and from the upper edge of the radiator to the window sill is from 8 to 10 cm, but the width of the heater itself should be 80 percent of the size of the window opening.
Then, according to the marks made with the help of dowels, with a depth of at least 6 cm into the wall, fasteners are installed.
The radiator is mounted on brackets, fixed and leveled.
The last point is the connection to the pipes. You can do a test run of the system to check the tightness of all connections.

Advice. Radiator horizontal alignment - very important point during installation. If this is not done, air will accumulate in the radiator. And this will lead not only to a decrease in energy efficiency, but also to corrosion of the device.

With the wall mounting method under the windows, one more condition is observed: the centers of the radiator and window opening should match. Mounting systems are different in their design (for example, the shape of suspensions), but they have the same task: to securely fix the radiator to the wall. Most often, fasteners are included with heating appliances and instructions are included with them.

The whole installation process is not complicated, you just need to approach each stage responsibly.

How to fix the floor battery

You have to mount the battery on the floor if it is very heavy and it is simply dangerous to hang it on the wall. For this purpose, there are special floor brackets. At a cost they are higher than wall-mounted, but in terms of reliability of fastening they have no equal. Most often, long heating radiators made of cast iron are attached to the floor, however, sometimes the designs of aluminum and steel radiators also provide for floor fasteners.

Advice. Brackets intended for mounting floor radiators are most conveniently fastened before pouring the screed in order to close the fastening point.

Steps for installing a radiator on the floor:

select two brackets that are suitable for a given battery weight;
on the base allotted for the battery, racks are installed using anchor bolts, maintaining a distance from the wall of at least 6 cm;
perform concrete works, closing the base of the brackets and bolt heads with a coupler;
hooks are put on the racks, set at the desired height, fixed with bolts (metal gaskets are also installed for protection, if provided for by the package);
the radiator is hung on the hooks, carefully aligning it horizontally.

The floor fixing system has great advantages, as all the weight of the battery rests on the floor. The left distance from the floor to the battery allows the air flow to circulate.

findings

It is always necessary to maintain the correct distance from the wall to the heating radiator, regardless of the design of the product, its shape or other performance characteristics.

It does not matter which heating system in the house or apartment: one-pipe or two-pipe, central or heating system. For heat exchange between the air and the radiator, in any case, you need space.

If this rule is not followed, the energy efficiency of the heating system will be significantly reduced, and the radiators will last a shorter period. As a result, the cost of energy resources, repair or replacement of components of the heating system will increase.