Push-button fittings for the toilet flush tank. Fittings for drain tanks with the bottom eyeliner. The process of installing a toilet shut-off valve
Complies with the requirements of TU 4953-001-02903999-2014
AB 69.57.55.3
Purpose of the product
It is intended for filling a flush tank (popularly a drain tank) with water and supplying it for flushing into the toilet.
Security measures
The materials used for the manufacture of fittings, under operating conditions, do not emit into environment harmful substances and do not have a harmful effect on the human body in direct contact. Working with fittings does not require special precautions.
Specifications
- Operating pressure range, MPa 0.05 - 1
- Tank filling time in the volume of 6.0 l, no more than 2.5 min
- Level stability: change in water level when pressure changes by 0.1 MPa, no more, mm 5.0
- The diameter of the hole in the lid of the tank, 38 ... 44 mm
- Installed resource, not less than 150.0 thousand cycles
- Connection size G1/2-B
- Product weight, no more than 0.62 kg
Completeness
Fittings kit includes:
Product storage and care
The fittings should be stored in a packaged form in dry enclosed spaces at a distance of at least 0.6 m from heating appliances.
Not allowed to use detergents, which include abrasive, acid - alkali-containing substances, organic solvents.
Manufacturer's Warranty
Guaranteed service life of valves - five years from the date of commissioning, but not more than six years from the date of issue. Service life of valves - 6 years.
The product warranty does not apply if:
- its mechanical damage;
- installations in violation of the requirements of this manual;
- improper maintenance during operation:
- water inconsistencies technical requirements GOST 2761-84.
To increase the reliability and durability of the fittings, it is recommended to additionally install a filter in the water supply network.
Reinforcement installation
The armature is delivered assembled, complete and adjusted to certain type tank
After installing the fittings, do not allow the moving parts of the valves to touch each other and the walls of the tank.
When connecting the water hose to the inlet valve, hold the valve from turning.
To avoid leakage from under the gasket, tighten the fixing wing nuts evenly on both sides.
Check that there is a gap of 3 - 19 mm between the tank cap and the button assembly, inserted all the way into the thread of the exhaust valve (without screwing in).
For reliable centering of the threads, before screwing in, make 1 - 2 turns counterclockwise until a characteristic click, which will show that the thread has “sat down” in its place.
- If the distance between the reservoir cap and the button assembly is beyond
limits 3 ... 19 mm, it is necessary to adjust the outlet valve in height
(see fig. 2 and the table for adjusting the height of the reinforcement), Disconnect the rod 23 from
overflow body 12. Squeeze cup latches 10 and move
racks 6 up and down achieve a gap of 3 ... 19 mm.
Attach the rod to the overflow body.
- To adjust the water level in the tank
disconnect the rod 2 (see Fig. 1), move
float up or down and reattach
drawn to him. Minimum distance between
water level and the upper edge of the tank 45 mm.
- After adjusting the water level in the tank, adjust the overflow pipe 7
(see Fig.2). To do this, unscrew the bayonet cover 9 and move the pipe
overflow to a position at which the risk on the pipe corresponds to the level
water in the tank. Tighten the bayonet cap.
* For long stem fittings
** when setting to this division, remove the overflow pipe 7
Rebar height setting table
| Rack scale division | Height H, mm | Rack scale division | Height H, mm |
| M** | 285-304 | 15 | 360-379 |
| 1 | 290-309 | 16 | 365-384 |
| 2 | 295-314 | 17 | 370-389 |
| 3 | 300-319 | 18 | 375-394 |
| 4 | 305-324 | 19 | 380-399 |
| 5 | 310-329 | 20 | 385-404 |
| 6 | 315-334 | 21 | 390-409 |
| 7 | 320-339 | 22 | 395-414 |
| 8 | 325-344 | 23 | 400-419 |
| 9 | 330-349 | 24* | 405-424 |
| 10 | 335-354 | 25* | 410-429 |
| 11 | 340-359 | 26* | 415-434 |
| 12 | 345-364 | 27* | 420-439 |
| 13 | 350-369 | 28* | 425-444 |
| 14 | 355-374 | 29* | 430-449 |
Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them
| Fault name | Probable Cause | Remedy |
| Valve does not close | ||
| Valve does not open | Clogged hole in slider assembly 5 - guide 3 | Disconnect the guide 3 and wash the assembly with the slider |
| Slow tank filling | Clogged filter 11 | Unscrew the water supply hose, remove the filter 11 from the housing 8 and rinse |
| Water is leaking into the toilet | Incorrectly installed bottom valve 13 on the overflow body 12 | Adjust landing bottom! valve 13 on the overflow body 12 J by turning around the axis |
| Loose nut 21 | Tighten nut 21 | |
| Overflow pipe set incorrectly 7 | adjust | |
| Rod set incorrectly 23 | adjust | |
NOTE: Due to the presence of various impurities in the water, the performance of the outlet valve may deteriorate over time due to sedimentation on its parts. In this case, it is necessary to disconnect the valve from the seat, flush it and reinstall it.
Valve drawings
Inlet valve (bottom connection) | Rice. one
Release valve | Rice. 2
Fittings for drain tank | Video instruction
Video provided by uklad.net
To write the article, I used the instructions that come with the fittings with the tank.
I also offer you:
Mounting the toilet lid | Video instruction
The video provides extensive instructions for assembling and installing toilet seats.
With plastic adjustable, with plastic non-adjustable fasteners, microlift and metal fasteners.
I wish you successful installation!
Regardless of the model and brand of the toilet cistern, the fundamental purpose stop valves drain tank invariably:
- open the water supply if it is empty;
- turn off the water when filling it.
The cistern fitting kit consists of the following items:
- drain mechanism (it includes a siphon with a lid and a sealed gasket between the drain pipe and the tank);
- jet adjustment lever (connected to the water pipe by means of a ball valve);
- float (adjusts the filling level of the tank). Connected to the drain mechanism with a spoke.
The design of the mechanisms for draining and filling the tank depends on the type of installation.
Type 1- a tank suspended high above the toilet. This type is familiar to almost every inhabitant of our country. Not too pretentious in appearance, it nevertheless has undeniable advantages:
- simplicity of design (which makes it easy to repair it on your own);
- the high speed with which the flow of ode rushes from a height into the toilet bowl.
Type 2- a drain tank installed on the toilet shelf. Most modern apartments and public institutions use this type of device.
Type 3- a tank built into the wall. It looks more like a thick-walled polyethylene canister.
All manipulations to replace the fittings of such a tank are performed through the hole in the drain button.
In order to successfully install a toilet or bidet, you need to know what it should be, this is necessary so that the pipes do not clog and wear out ahead of time. The most important and up-to-date information.
If the toilet "does not flow", then the water consumption is minimal. However, in addition to paying for water, it is necessary to check water meters regularly. About the cost, conditions and frequency of this procedure, there are many useful tips how to save on checking meters!
Drainer mechanism ^
It is hardly necessary to consider in our time the installation of drain fittings for suspended structures: they have long lost their relevance.
Therefore, in the future we will only talk about the valves of the most common types - cisterns installed directly on the toilet bowls.
According to the method of actuating the drain device, the mechanisms are divided into two groups:
- exhaust (rod). In order to activate the device of this group, it is necessary to raise the top of the rod that locks the drain hole with the handle.
AT modern models tanks, such a mechanism is practically not found. It was preserved only in fairly old models;
- push (button). The mechanisms of this group are divided, in turn, into two subgroups:
- Croydon valve. It consists of a body, an axis of the float lever, a piston and a seat. The float arm drives the piston.
The piston movement in Croydon valves is vertical. This design is installed in old-style tanks.
- piston valve. In this design, the axis of the float lever is fixed in a cotter pin, split in two.
Moving, the lever causes the piston to move in a horizontal direction. The piston, in contact periodically with the saddle, regulates the flow of water into the tank.
A gasket is mounted at the end of the piston, which blocks the water flow at the moment the piston presses on the seat. Tanks with piston valves are in many Russian apartments.
- diaphragm valve. In this type of design, a membrane (rubber or silicone) is installed instead of a piston gasket.
The plastic piston, moving under the action of a lever, also moves the membrane. It blocks the water inlet. Diaphragm valve is the latest advancement in manufacturing drain cisterns.
In addition to plumbing, water can be used for additional space heating. Recently, warm water floors are gaining popularity, creating an optimal microclimate in the apartment. Read about how this can be organized in the article, it's not like that and expensive pleasure, but the benefits of keeping your feet constantly warm are undeniable!
Summer water outages are not terrible if you have a water heater. One of the most popular companies in Russia is the Termex company, read about its water heaters with a capacity of 80 liters or more, let it always be comfortable in your home.
Tank filling method ^
The tank can be filled in two ways:
- through the side water supply;
- through the bottom water supply.
The cistern with side inlet fills with water noisily while at the bottom supply, water fills the tank almost silently.
But many manufacturers began to supplement the fittings of the tank with a side supply with a drain pipe. It is made of soft plastic and sends a jet of water to the lower area of the tank.
Thanks to this addition, drain cisterns with a lateral supply have ceased to make noise.
In what cases does the question arise about the replacement of reinforcement ^
Drain cisterns entering retail chains, as a rule, are equipped with the necessary set of fittings.
And the majority of users are not interested in what mechanisms provide normal functioning devices.
But time passes, and the tank ceases to cope with its task. It is at this moment that the user has to get acquainted with his device, solve the problem of acquiring spare parts.
Moreover, the problem is not that they are difficult to buy, but how to buy a quality product.
The quality of the cistern fittings plays a huge role in its normal operation.
It is faulty mechanisms that cause various problems. For example, water begins to seep into the toilet bowl, which is why the snow-white surface of the toilet bowl covered with red streaks.
For more information about the types, cost, sizes of toilets and bidets, what is typical, installation methods and selection tips, read only on our website.
Sewer pipes require periodic cleaning. About cleaning methods, cost, special devices for this procedure and much more, let your sewer system function as it should.
Or the flushing mechanism ceases to control the volume of flushed water. Such troubles can happen different reasons but the most common ones are:
- low quality of plastic elements of mechanisms leads to their distortion. A too sharp drop in water temperature can give the same effect, even if high-quality fittings are installed in the tank;
- many import production mechanisms(they use diaphragm float valves) can't stand the quality of our water: rigid, having a large number of impurities (such as chlorine). For guard imported equipment sometimes has to be installed coarse and fine filters at the entrance water pipe to the apartment;
- when using low quality materials for the manufacture of cistern fittings, it is subjected to premature aging and abrasion.
So, in what cases does it become necessary to replace the fittings:
- continuous flow of water into the tank. Such an "accident" can happen due to a misalignment of the float lever.
But if nothing has changed after adjusting it, then the float is damaged: it lets water in, becomes heavier from this and sinks to the bottom. In this case, you will have to purchase a new float.
It costs quite a bit - just about 4 rubles. But in practice, in the event of a float failure change the entire float valve. This node costs an average 200 - 300 rubles.
- Continuous flow of water into the toilet. There is only one reason for this - the membrane of the drain tank siphon is damaged. In this case, there is only one way out: replacing the membrane.
The cost of this element depends on the method of its manufacture:
- stamped membranes stand 6 rubles;
- molded with vulcanization 30 rubles.
Many users often think: is it worth replacing individual elements of tank fittings?
After all, if the mechanism begins to wear out, then one breakdown will be followed by others. It is safer to replace the entire set of fittings.
In addition, it is very difficult to find, say, a membrane or a float for an imported cistern. BUT replacing a part with a "non-native" one often does not lead to the expected result.
If you decide to replace the valve set in the cistern. Ask price ^
The cost of a set of fittings for a Polish-made Cersanit tank with a lower water supply is 650 rubles. The kit includes:
- exhaust valve;
- filling valve;
- ring sealing;
- fitting plastic BAS 24;
- button and sleeve are metallized.
Fittings for the Vidima cistern 1250 rubles. But for products of this brand membrane can be ordered separately. It will cost in 300 rubles.
Hybner cistern outlet with stop function 1800 rubles.
The drain valve of a tank of the Spanish production of Jika costs 2800 rubles. The product is available in two versions:
- button height is short;
- button height increased.
The Jika flush valve can be used in the ROCA and JIKA flush cisterns of the collections:
- dama senso;
- victoria;
- vega etc.
Reinforcement of domestic production is much cheaper. For example, armature "way"(produced in Pskov) will cost the buyer from 250 to 340 rubles.
Moreover, the manufacturer claims that all plastic elements are made from virgin polypropylene, and shut-off valves are produced with the addition of natural rubber.
Interesting options are offered by the Ryazan company Center heating equipment and plumbing." They produce fittings brand "RBM" with three types of valves:
- direct action;
- membrane;
- backpressure.
They can be used in tanks with both side and bottom water supply. They have models with stock and push-button start mechanisms.
Universal Design:
- with rod mechanism from 99 rubles;
- with diaphragm backpressure valve (push-button) from 205 rubles.
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11 responses to the article“ What you need to know about fittings for the toilet cistern: characteristics, firms, prices”
- Oksana
It’s even strange that a tank suspended high above the toilet bowl is not in fashion now, yet it seems that it really is the most efficient, after all, the speed of the water flow is enough important factor. I even wanted to do this at home, I will have to find out if it is possible to do this now, otherwise I was recently in a plumbing store, but I didn’t see something like that.
- Anna
I really like the hidden toilet barrels that are built into the hay. Only one button is visible on the face. Unfortunately, such a system is very expensive, and not everyone can afford it. Recently, I began to think about the economy of the toilet bowl drain barrel. Today, this is a very topical issue for everyone. Are there systems that allow you to save water?
The water connection to the toilet tank can be made from below or from the side - this depends both on the design of the toilet bowl itself and on the features of the water supply system. Side connection cistern fittings are easy to maintain and reliable at an affordable price. At the same time, it performs its functions to the full, therefore, when arranging an inexpensive bathroom, it is appropriate to choose it.
Functions of fittings for the tank:
- automatic set of the required amount of water;
- draining a certain amount of water into the toilet;
- overflow protection.
The side connection is easier to connect to the water supply, especially when we are talking about houses of old buildings, in which water sockets are designed for such a connection. In modern universal fittings with lateral inlet, either a stem or a button can play the role of a drain element.
Our offer
In Moscow, you can buy high-quality fittings with lateral connection in the Santekhkomplekt online store. We work with Russian brands ANI Plast, Incoer, RBM and Uklad, whose products are highly valued for consistently high quality and affordable prices.
On sale there are rod and push-button fittings, including dual-mode ones. If you need help in choosing or a hint on the characteristics of the model you like, call our managers and they will help you figure it out and place an order. You can find the number for your city at the top of the page.
Looking at the ingenious interweaving of sewer, water pipes, hoses, having had enough "talk" with the gentlemen plumbers from the housing department, who arrived on their regular visit about an extraordinary blockage or leak, after a superficial study of the structure of the toilet bowl, after re-reading a bunch of responses and advice from experienced ones, you come to conclusion that a toilet with a lower water supply is the best option.
The undoubted advantages include:
- neat, aesthetic appearance a toilet bowl, thanks to which sewer and water communications are not visible;
- the lower connection is practically silent and economical - the water does not “run”, since the flow of water comes from the bottom of the drain barrel;
- the lower eyeliner is reliable, rarely requires repair.
There are also disadvantages:
- this type of eyeliner is difficult to install;
- Difficulties in replacing parts - it is easier to completely replace the system.
The efficiency of sanitary equipment directly depends on the quality of sediment cleaning from the outlet pipe elbow, this function is performed by fittings for the toilet flush tank.
Drain tank device
The flush tank consists of:
- a reservoir where water is located;
- fittings;
- drain systems;
- flush buttons.
How to choose fittings for a drain tank
Initially, the diameter of the water intake pipe is measured with a tape measure, a ruler. At 1.5 cm eyeliner - 3/8 inch, at 2.0 cm - ½ inch.
It is better to buy fittings of the same model as the old one. To do this, dismantle the failed mechanism, show a sample to the sales assistant. Now fittings are often sold already assembled, which will not require additional effort. 
How the fittings for the toilet cistern with bottom connection are arranged
The materials from which fittings are made are plastic, metal, bronze. Plastic is the most popular, but fragile material, the cost of a product made from it is low, bronze, respectively, is a more durable material and the cost of a product made from it is quite high. There is nothing complicated in the structure of the fittings of the drain tank. Despite the variety of models, the principle of constructing reinforcement is the same. 
The fittings intended for the lower eyeliner are divided into:
- The drain mechanism is fixed in the tank with a union nut. To seal the joint, special seals are put on the downpipe before installation, and a gasket is placed between the drain tank and the bowl, which prevents water from flowing. Water is drained by pressing the button or with a rod drain device, by lifting the lever up.
The push-button device, in turn, is divided into:
- a one-button device that provides complete draining, that is, the entire tank is emptied;
- a two-button device, in which it is possible to completely and partially empty the tank, respectively, such a drain device has two valves.
- There can also be a float of different designs:
- With a piston - the float is attached to the piston, with pressure on the lever, the drain opens, when water is drawn in, it closes the valve;
- With a membrane - the mechanism of action, as with a piston.
- The shut-off valves consist of: a float, a water overflow tube, a push-button mechanism for draining water, a rod, a glass, a membrane valve. Draining occurs as follows: after pressing the button, water flows out of the tank, the float goes down, the membrane valve opens with a pull, and water flows from the water pipe, which fills the flush tank. The float rises to a set level, which limits the thrust. The diaphragm valve then closes, preventing further water ingress.
Materials and tools required for installation and replacement of fittings
- Roulette, you can get by with a regular ruler.
- Adjustable wrench No. 1.
- Spanners.
- Fittings.
Reinforcement installation
A non-professional can also install the mechanism in the flush tank. Initially, you should read the instructions attached to the kit, neglect its study, the right is not worth it.
- First, the installation of the filling valve is carried out, for this, adapters and gaskets are used. For some toilet models, the inlet and inlet valves are mounted at the same time.
- The system can be installed in the flush tank before the toilet is fully installed, for this, put a rubber gasket on top of the drain system. Place the mechanism directly in the flush tank, secure it with a nut.
- All fasteners designed to secure the mechanism are equipped with rubber gaskets inside, plastic ones on the outside. Rubber gaskets can be treated with sealant. It is advisable to carry out this procedure even for new membranes, gaskets. Replacement of a failed gasket, membrane by disassembling - assembling the device.
- If the toilet is not monolithic, then the gasket located between the tank and the bowl is also treated with a sealant.
- Reinforcement parts must not touch inner walls tank, leave a gap of 0.5 cm.
- At the end of the installation, the flush tank is installed on the toilet.
- Install the lid on the tank, screw the flush button.
- Connect water and test drain.
How to adjust the fittings of the toilet
If the drain test gives poor results, an adjustment should be made. The rod is disconnected from the overflow pipe, the drain system lock is released so that the glass moves easily. The position of the valve is carefully adjusted to the required level - about 5 cm to the top of the drain tank, fix it, bring the rod so that the water overflow tube is immersed in water by 2 cm. The flush mechanism can have the functions of draining a full and half tank. The system for draining half of the tank is adjusted by adjusting the float of the smaller drain. 
Rebar dismantling
- Shut off the water, drain it from the tank.
- Unscrew the button counterclockwise, if it is attached directly to the tank cap, remove the cap.
- Unscrew the nut connecting the system to the water supply hose with a wrench.
- Remove the old mechanism.
Causes of valve failure
- The appearance of a leak from the outside when draining means a leakage of the gasket. Tighten the nut connecting the pipe and the tank. If the leak has not stopped, then the access of water is blocked, the nut is removed, the pipe is pulled out, the gasket is removed and either replaced with a new one or wrapped with FUM tape. Ten windings of tape will be enough.
- The water stopped flowing. First check the water level in the tank. If it is lower than it should be, then adjust the float.
- Water stopped flowing into the tank. The reason is a clogged valve. To eliminate it, drain the water, remove the valve, use a needle or thin wire to clean the hole through which water enters the tank, then rinse.
- Water is constantly flowing. Check the float for distortion and depressurization. You can check the integrity of the float like this - remove it and lower it into a container of water. If it starts to take on water, sink, then replace it.
- The drain is uneven, jerky. Check flush lever fasteners. If the stem does not rise, then the fasteners are most likely loose. Tighten the bolt, adjust the lever.
- The release lever does not work and needs to be replaced.
- Appearance limescale– purchase special means to remove it or use citric acid.
For a comfortable atmosphere in the house, it is necessary that the plumbing work smoothly. At the same time, I would like to note that the sewerage system and the toilet bowl, which are its components, play an important role. In turn, in order for the toilet to work well, you need to pay attention to it. technological features, its design, as well as the condition of the reinforcement.
What types can be
Before deciding how to choose fittings for the toilet, let's try to understand what should be understood by the word "fittings". This word should be understood as all the constituent elements that are aimed at ensuring the operation of plumbing, it includes, including the toilet.
In accordance with the functions performed, several of the following types can be distinguished:
- fittings that block the flow of water after the tank is filled;
- fittings that ensure the descent of the liquid.
Each of the species constitutes separate mechanisms, which, nevertheless, are closely related to each other. The latter circumstance leads to the fact that if one of them breaks down, the second one also stops working.
How is the tank filled
The function of filling the tank, as already described earlier, is assigned to the mechanism in question. Let's highlight its main details. So, the shut-off system is a combination of shut-off valves, levers, a float and supply fittings.
Several levers usually form a single set of metal or plastic parts connected to the float. For the manufacture of the latter, foam or a hollow plastic cylinder is usually used, it is designed to regulate the water level in the drain tank and determine when the tank will be filled.
In this case, all shutoff valves work as follows. First, the liquid fills the drain tank. In this case, the float rises to a certain limit.
As already described earlier, the float and levers are connected, therefore, when the float reaches a certain limit, the lever acts on a valve specially installed for constipation, the water flow is blocked.
It is also possible to highlight different types fittings according to the location of the liquid supply. So, water, in the presence of fittings for a toilet bowl with a side supply, can flow from the side, while the plumbing is located, as a rule, from above.
With this arrangement, water is usually collected with great noise. The least noise is created by the water supply from below. Also, water can be supplied from above, but this is a rather rare design.
Thus, fittings for a toilet bowl with a bottom connection seem to be the most preferable.
How is draining
Let's consider the principle of operation of the fittings that provide the descent of water. Components such fittings will be:
- hole for descent, having a certain angle of inclination;
- an overflow tube is required;
- the system does not do without a cover for the valve and gum
- an important part should also be considered the drain button and the system of mechanisms that ensure its operation.
At the same time, there are several systems that differ in design. So, there is a full drain system with a button; a system that has two modes of draining water, provided with a special function - you can interrupt the descent of the liquid.
In the latter case, an analogue of a key is used, releasing either water completely or partially. As a separate item, I would like to highlight the rod fittings used for the toilet, acting on the basis of the rod.
There are three types of float valves. These are piston operated valves equipped with a special lever. "Croydon" - such a mechanism was used earlier, in modern toilets, as a rule, it has been replaced by another. A valve based on a silicone or rubber membrane that replaces the gasket.
It should be added that if the float fails, the entire locking system will have to be changed completely.
When choosing fittings for the toilet, pay attention to the choice of high-quality, durable plastic parts so that the fittings are resistant to overheating and cooling, withstand mechanical stress.
The diaphragm valve must be selected taking into account the fact that salt-rich water with impurities quickly disables the diaphragm. It is also recommended to choose goods of a good brand in order to exclude the presence of marriage. It is also useful to familiarize yourself with the photo of the fittings for the toilet bowl before buying.
What to do in case of breakdown
If problems arise during the operation of plumbing, then to eliminate them, it is worth adhering to some algorithm. To begin with, find out the causes of the breakdown, adjust the level of water consumption, replace worn parts.
Then you should clean the channels, as well as parts of the system from plaque and dirt. In case of serious damage, you should contact a specialist.
Photo fittings for the toilet
