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Petunias planting and care in the open field. Growing petunias step by step. Where does petunia grow in the wild?

Petunia seedlings can always be found in flower markets, because. this flower is just very popular. However, you did not come to this article because you want to buy ready-made planting material, but on the contrary, be eager to plant petunia seeds for seedlings on your own and go all the way from the appearance of the first small sprouts to the chic flowering of large bright buds.

In this material you will find all the necessary information on how to properly sow petunia seeds for seedlings at home.

If you want the petunia to start blooming in May, then you need to sow the petunia seeds 3 months before landing in the ground, i.e. in February-March.

Advice! In order not to bother much with the backlight, it is still better to sow the seeds in March, picking up early varieties.

More exact dates pick up landing depending on the climatic conditions of your region, namely when the threat of return frosts has passed and the soil warms up to 10 degrees Celsius.

For example, in the South of Russia it is possible to sow since February, but in Middle lane (Moscow region) - from the end of February-beginning of March, in the Urals and Siberia - from the second half of March.

Note! The site already has an article about, including sowing dates for lunar calendar in 2020.

How to sow petunias for seedlings: the preparatory stage

Before proceeding with the direct sowing of seeds, you need to buy high-quality seeds, prepare the soil mixture (soil) and select suitable containers for seedlings.

Selection of quality seeds

One of the main factors for the successful and rapid germination of seeds is their freshness. In other words, it is desirable sow seeds harvested last year.

Thus, in the spring of 2020 you must sow the seeds 2019 collection.

The fact is that small petunia seeds are not stored for a long time and quickly lose their germination. As a rule, it makes sense to sow seeds no older than 2 years, because. already 3-year-old seeds germinate very, very poorly.

Biological viability period petunia seeds - 2 years!

Suitable soil

The soil for sowing petunia seeds for seedlings should be as light and loose as possible (soft and, as it were, “melting” in the hands) and necessarily neutral acidity (6-6.5 pH).

Note! On the initial stage(seed germination, especially small ones) Growing petunias in soil with too many nutrients, on the contrary, can adversely affect the condition of young seedlings.

Where can you find such soil?

  • Purchase ready-made potting mix for growing flower seedlings at a garden store. Now on sale you can even find soil for petunias.

  • Cook it yourself (including on the basis of purchased land (peat) and sand).

Several recipes for the preparation of "air" (moisture and breathable) soil for sowing seeds:

  • Recipe number 1: 3 parts of deoxidized peat, 1 part of soddy and leafy soil, as well as 1 part of river sand.
  • Recipe number 2: 2 parts of peat, 1 part of humus and sand.
  • Recipe number 3: 3 parts of peat and 1 part of sand.

Important! If you have acidic peat, then for each kilogram of prepared soil mixture you will need to add 1 tbsp. spoon (to reduce acidity).

Also, do not forget that the landing container must have drainage holes so that excess moisture flows freely and does not stagnate. Alternatively, you can pour drainage layer from expanded clay. Or you can do both (if you so desire), but this is not at all necessary, just choose one.

Advice! If you have chosen containers with transparent walls, then, in principle, you can not make drainage holes, because. you can control the degree of soil moisture. However, if you are afraid to pour the soil, then do it better!

Methods for planting petunia seeds for seedlings and step-by-step guides for direct sowing

So, depending on which seeds you purchased - regular or coated, whether you have snow (you can take it from the refrigerator), you can choose one of the ways you like to sow petunias.

Standard sowing of small seeds (universal instruction)

Step-by-step instructions for the classic sowing of petunia seeds for seedlings:

  • Fill the planting container 3/4 full with suitable soil, level the surface and lightly compact.

The surface must be as smooth as possible, because seeds will be sown superficially, and compacted, that they do not fall into the lower layers.

  • Moisten the soil thoroughly. After wetting, be sure to level the surface of the soil again.
  • In order for the seeds to be distributed over the surface as evenly as possible, they can be mixed with sand.

  • Sow by scattering the seeds over the surface of the soil or spreading the seeds with a toothpick (after moistening its tip). The more evenly you distribute the seeds, the more convenient it will be for you to do.

Important! In no case no need to deepen or sprinkle the seeds on top of the soil. We sow only superficially! The seeds are small, they simply do not have enough strength to break through the thickness of the soil.

  • If desired, you can lightly squeeze the seeds with your hand so that they seem to “stick” to the ground (in other words, it is desirable to ensure good contact between the seeds and the soil).

Because petunias have very small seeds, and the sowing is superficial, they should not be sprayed with a spray bottle.

  • Cover with a lid, glass, cling film or put on a bag to create a greenhouse effect, i.e. mini-greenhouse (high humidity will help the seeds germinate faster).
  • Sign a container or stick a label from a pack of seeds to know exactly what is planted.
  • Remove the container with seeds in a warm place where it stays optimum temperature for seed germination - +22..25 degrees, according to other sources, even +25..30 degrees is better (the lower the temperature, the longer you have to wait for seedlings, the higher - the faster).

Think! It is believed that petunia seeds germinate only in the light, so in February they are placed under lamps (12-14 hour daylight hours). However, as practice shows, this is not entirely true. A bowl with crops can be removed on a kitchen cabinet. Another thing is that it is very important to get and rearrange the container with seedlings in time to the light, otherwise they will quickly stretch out.

Sowing coated seeds

If you purchased coated petunia seeds, then sowing is even easier:

  • Everything is similar to the previous method, only in this case you can more evenly distribute the seeds over the surface (optimally at a distance of 1-2 cm from each other).

  • Again, if desired, you can manually lightly press the seeds into the soil.
  • After sowing, you can lightly moisten the coated seeds with a spray bottle, that they quickly soaked and began to germinate.

However! Some experts believe that when sowing granular seeds, they do not need to be additionally sprayed. The fact is that the substance of the granule can be different in composition: some granules dissolve immediately, others retain their shape until the appearance of seedlings.

  • Cover with a film (make a greenhouse), put in a warm place (+25 degrees) until the seeds germinate.

By the way! Dried seeds you can sow immediately in individual containers (the same cassettes) or .

Sowing in furrows (rows)

To subsequently make it convenient to take care of the growing seedlings of petunia (including), you can sow the seeds not arbitrarily, distributing them over the surface, but immediately along the grooves.

Important! If you are going to sow ordinary small seeds, then the soil must first be moistened, if coated, then you can water it after sowing.

  • So, you need to make very shallow grooves (literally a couple of millimeters deep), so to speak, outline rows at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other.
  • Next, spread the seeds into grooves, trying to keep a distance of 1-2 cm between them.

Seeds (pellets) are very convenient to lay out with a toothpick, moistening its tip, to which they will stick well.

Or mix ordinary seeds with sand and pour evenly from the leaf.

Interesting! Some manage to pick up toothpicks and ordinary small seeds with a moistened tip.

  • If you sowed granulated seeds, then carry out moistening from a spray bottle (spray the seeds so that the seed coat becomes sour). If ordinary small ones, then they had to be sown immediately on moist soil.
  • Make a greenhouse (close with a lid or cover with a film) and put it in a warm place (+25) until shoots appear.

Video: sowing petunias in rows

Seeding in the snow

Because petunia can be sown even in winter, it is very convenient to sow seeds in the snow (their will be better seen on a white background):

  • On top of the soil mixture you need to lay a layer of snow (1-2 centimeters).
  • Next, spread the petunia seeds evenly over the snow.

The advantage of planting in the snow is that after the snow melts, the seeds will be in the ground at the optimum depth (they will only be slightly "pressed", so to speak, "drawn" into the soil).

Also, snow will contribute to the gradual dissolution of the shell of coated seeds.

  • Wait until the snow melts, cover with a film or lid, put in a warm place (+25 degrees).

However! There is an unfounded opinion that petunia seeds do not require any cold stratification, on the contrary, for good germination, the optimum temperature is + 25-30 degrees. Accordingly, after sowing petunia seeds on snow, germination may be delayed.

Video: how to plant petunia seeds in the snow

Further care of petunia seedlings after germination

Before seeds germinate and shoots appear, you will need to monitor the soil moisture in your greenhouse. Every day, open the lid or remove the film for ventilation - once a day for 5-10 minutes, so that strong condensation does not form inside.

Petunia shoots, as a rule, appear after 5-10 days (maximum after 14). After unfolding the cotyledon leaves, the cover (shelter) can be removed.

Now you know that the first step to getting a quality petunia seedling is its timely and correct sowing, which also lies in the selection of quality seeds, light soil and suitable planting containers.

Video: how to sow petunia seeds for seedlings

In contact with

Petunia is one of the most successful plants for decorating a garden plot or a balcony in summer time. The splendor of flowers, a variety of shades and the possibility of any placement - in flower beds, in flowerpots and in hanging planters- allows you to make separate compositions from it or combine it with other colors.

Petunias are native to the tropics of South America. She is a relative of tobacco, hence her name - "petun", which means "tobacco" in translation.

Batonic description of colors

Petunia is a perennial from the nightshade family. It has many forms - from bush to ampel and cascade. The color of the flowers is the most diverse - all shades of red, blue, blue, purple, yellow, cream and white. There are two-color petunias - with bright stripes, a border or a star. In shape, the flowers are funnel-shaped, they are large, small, double or fringed.

Bush petunia can grow up to 70 cm, there are also small compact bushes up to 30 cm tall. In some types of petunias, lashes can grow up to 2 meters.

To decorate a garden or balcony, petunia is grown as an annual plant, planting it every year with seeds or propagating by cuttings.

Types, varieties of petunias and their brief description with a photo

In culture, petunia has been grown since the 17th century, breeders have been engaged in it for more than 100 years. The number of hybrid varieties of petunia bred is difficult to calculate, but there are only a few of the most popular. In general, petunias are divided into several types.



Multicolor. It is distinguished by small flowers, blooms for a long time and profusely, unpretentious care. He loves heat and light, does not react to cold weather and rainy weather. Suitable for decorating flower beds and borders, it makes a wonderful carpet flower garden.

Large-flowered. It has flowers up to 12 cm in diameter, double or fringed, more demanding for care, widely used to decorate balconies.

floribunda. It successfully combines the beauty of a large-flowered petunia and the unpretentiousness of a multi-flowered one. The color of the flowers is the most diverse, it is customary to decorate large flower beds or create large flower arrays.

Ampelnaya. The most favorite flowers of landscape designers. They decorate artificial reservoirs, stone compositions. Perfectly lives on the street, resistant to bad weather. The stems growing upwards fall down as they grow and hang down in beautiful, flower-studded lashes. The length of the stem usually does not exceed 1 m.

A photo. Petunia ampelous

Surfinia. Its stems can reach 2 meters in length, but it does not belong to the ampelous varieties. The flowers are large, densely growing on the stem. The coloring is rich and varied.

Terry. Her beauty is hard to overestimate. Corrugated petals luxuriantly decorate a compact low bush. It is good both in single landings and in borders, and as a bright spot in flower arrangements. Unpretentious in care. Many of its varieties have varying degrees of terry, and the color scheme is striking in variety.

Cascading. The cascading petunia also sprouts long shoots, but differs from the ampelous in the nature of their growth. Its stem can reach one and a half meters in length, it is more powerful and elastic. The stems do not only grow down, they can grow to the sides.

Petunia varieties


Fantasy. The variety series includes 9 undersized hybrids. Small-flowered - flower size up to 4 cm. Colors - red with a white throat, raspberry, salmon, red with burgundy veins, pink with a cream-colored throat.

Plumcrystals. The variety series includes 13 hybrids with flowers of medium size -6-9 cm. The colors are lilac-pink with purple veins, pink with dark pink veins, white, burgundy, crimson.

Pikoti. Series of 4 hybrids with strong corrugated flowers and a wide white border around the edge of the petal. The bush is compact, 25 cm high. The color is red, pink, blue-violet, raspberry.

Purple pirouette. A heavily doubled hybrid usually purple-purple in color. The bush is small - up to 25 cm.

A photo. Petunia variety purple pirouette

Sonia. The variety series includes 11 hybrids. The bush is low - up to 25 cm, the color is from white to raspberry-burgundy with a white star and contrasting veins.

The most popular varieties are:

  • wonder wave- very strongly growing cascade variety;
  • Ramblin- the most unpretentious variety, very beautiful;
  • dusty rose- bush petunia with flowers of an unusual beautiful color;
  • easy wave- grow in a compact bush in the shape of a ball

Seeds for planting can be collected from a plant, or you can buy it in a store. If you are planning to grow petunias from your own seeds, choose a plant from which you will collect them. Seeds ripen fastest on the lower buds. The petunia fruit is a box with small seeds. They ripen in 2 months from the beginning of budding. Each box contains about 100 seeds.

How to collect seeds

You can use petunia seeds, both your own and purchased

It is important not to miss the moment of seed ripening, because the box may burst and the seeds crumble. It is better to remove them from the fruit shell and store them in bags, signing the variety on them. Within 4 months, the seeds will ripen at room temperature. Germination lasts up to 4 years.

When buying seeds, pay attention to the following circumstances:

  • quality seeds are not packaged in large quantities. The bag should contain no more than 5 granulated seeds;
  • quality seeds cannot be cheap. If a bag is sold for 10-15 rubles, you should not take it. Good products cost 20-50 rubles.

How to sow petunias

Sowing seeds for seedlings should begin in late February - early March. It is necessary to sow with a margin, because due to the short daylight hours their germination is low. If possible, seedlings should preferably be illuminated.

Sowing is done in a light loose soil, consisting of leaf, sod and humus soil, peat and sand. The day before planting, it is abundantly watered. The top layer of the substrate can be sieved for greater uniformity. Seeds are mixed with dry sand and laid out on the surface of the soil, leveled and watered with a sprayer. Then the container is covered with a film or glass and placed for germination in a room with a temperature of 20-23°C.

Important! Because of high humidity There may be condensation on the film or glass. It must be wiped regularly so that the seedlings do not become infected with the black leg.

Shoots appear in a week. Once a week they need to be sprayed with potassium permanganate. After the appearance of 1 leaf, the glass or film is removed, the surface of the soil is lightly sprinkled with sand, watering is reduced.

When forming 3-4 leaves, the sprouts are transplanted into individual containers. Yogurt cups are very convenient for this purpose. The picking is done carefully, transferring the sprout by the leaf, trying not to disturb the roots and not to shake off the ground from them. After a week, you can start feeding seedlings. Root and foliar top dressing alternate. You can spray and water petunia seedlings with Kemira or Nitrofoska complex fertilizers.

Small-flowered hybrids bloom about two months after sowing seeds, large-flowered hybrids - after three. It is important to know that when you grow a petunia from seed, you will only get a pale copy of the mother plant.

Planting petunias in open ground

Petunia can be planted outdoors after the end of the last spring frosts. The soil for it should be sandy or loamy. Before planting a petunia, add compost and humus to it. Do not use manure as a fertilizer, it may contain pathogens of fungal diseases that are dangerous for petunias. The planting site is chosen open and sunny. It is very good to plant a petunia next to roses. She will scare away dangerous pests from her neighbor.

Seedlings must be hardened off before planting. To do this, the plant is exposed daily to a room with a low temperature or to the street. Every day the duration of hardening increases.

Bushes are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other for a small-flowered petunia and 25-30 cm for a large-flowered one. If you plant an already blooming petunia, it will delight you with its beauty until the frost.

Important! Landing is best done in cloudy dry weather or in the evening.

Petunia flower care outdoors

An unpretentious drought-resistant plant does not require much trouble. It is important that the soil under the petunias is always moist (but not flooded!). They also need weeding, loosening and top dressing.

Watering and feeding

Petunia should be watered as needed. For irrigation, settled water is used. Watering is done under the root so that water does not fall on the delicate flowers. The next day after watering, loosening and weeding are carried out.

You need to feed the flowers once a week, alternating organic fertilizers with mineral ones. Petunia will be more magnificent if it is watered from time to time with an aqueous solution of humates. The color of the buds will be more intense when used special fertilizer for petunia "Aquarin flower".

Important! Watering, fertilizing and weeding are best done in the evening or on cloudy days.

pruning

Formation lends itself mainly to bush petunia. To do this, after planting in open ground, you need to pinch a few leaves at the top. Then the main stem will begin to branch, and the plant will be more lush.

It is impossible to form an ampelous petunia by pinching. Her stem continues to grow and does not want to branch into any.

If you constantly remove faded buds, you can achieve a new wave of flowering petunias.

Possible ways to propagate petunias

Petunia can be propagated by seeds and cuttings. Cuttings are possible only in ampelous, cascading and terry petunias, as well as in all groups of mini-petunias. Cuttings are planted at the end of winter. Ampelous and mini-petunias can be propagated by cuttings at any time of the year, if they extend daylight hours and provide a temperature of 21-24 ° C.

For propagation, apical cuttings with 4-6 leaves are taken, the lower ones are cut off, leaving only the top two. The cuttings are planted in the same soil mixture as the seeds, at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other. From above they are covered with glass or film and left for rooting.

Important! Cuttings must be freshly cut! Their ability to take root is being lost every minute!

Ampelous and terry petunias take root within 7 days, mini-petunias - within 2 weeks. Flowers should be transplanted into separate containers when the roots grow to 1-1.5 cm. Yogurt cups are also suitable for cuttings. In order for the plant to branch, you need to pinch the top of the seedling at the level of 4-5 leaves. The stem obtained by pinching can also be used as planting material. After 40-45 days, grown plants can be planted in large pots. Care for seedlings is the same as for adult petunias.

Diseases, pests and how to deal with them

Fungal infection - blackleg on a petunia

Subject to all the rules of care, petunia practically does not get sick. However, there are situations when it begins to dry and turn yellow. In this case, you just need to adjust the care.

Of the diseases, petunia can be affected by fungal infections - late blight, black leg, chlorosis, gray rot. Viral diseases in petunias are rare, but if they appear, they must be dealt with radically - throwing away the diseased plant in the name of preserving the entire plantation.

Of the pests, petunia can be affected by aphids, thrips, spider mites and slugs. The means of combating them are insecticides.

when the petunia bloomed

Petunia is grown in the garden as an annual plant. But nothing prevents you from keeping it at home in winter time. After she bloomed open field(in October), dig up a bush, transplant it into a pot and put it to rest in a cool room. Petunias need to be watered from time to time, keeping the soil moist. “Wake up” it will need to be in February, moving it to a light window sill at room temperature and resuming regular watering.

The plant will give young shoots that need to be cut to a stump when they have the first 2-3 leaves. Cut shoots are transplanted into a pot with the usual soil for petunia, covered with foil and placed in the shade. They are looked after by watering and airing until they take root. Then the seedlings dive into separate containers and grow up before transplanting it into open ground.

The use of petunias in landscape design

Cascading petunia, widely used to create compositions, in landscape design

Cascading petunia is ideal for creating individual compositions in the backyard. It grows in different directions, forming a large flower "cushion". Cascading petunia is good for decorating arbors and creating individual compositions on a support; it creates a flower array up to 2 meters in diameter. If planted on the ground, the stems will spread and form a flower carpet.

Ampelous petunia can be very beautiful to decorate a house or gazebos hanging the pots the way you like.

Large areas of soil can be filled with terry petunias. It looks great if you combine plants in one flower bed different colors.

Petunia, arranged on a green lawn in flowerpots, looks very beautiful. In flowerbeds, it is not necessary to plant it in open ground, you can grow different varieties of it in containers, and then combine them in various colors in flower arrangements.

Petunia (Petunia), also called petunia, is a genus represented by subshrubs and herbaceous perennials. This genus belongs to the Solanaceae family. In the wild, such a plant can be found in the tropics of Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil, Bolivia and Paraguay. The name of this genus comes from the Brazilian word "petun" which translates as "tobacco". The fact is that tobacco and petunia are related plants. Even in North America, you can meet 1 type of petunia. This genus includes approximately 25 species. In some cases, these species are very different from each other. In culture, such a plant since the 18th century. Breeders more than a century ago created hybrids that today are grown as garden or balcony annual plants. Petunia is attractive because it lush bloom lasts all season, while the flowers are relatively large, bright and very beautiful. Also, this plant goes well with other flowers grown in the garden, for example, with begonia or pelargonium. Ampelous petunia in hanging compositions looks very impressive, especially consisting of varieties of different colors. Also, this plant is very popular, because even an inexperienced gardener can grow it.

The shape of the petunia is bushy. In height, such a flower can reach 0.15–0.7 m, its densely branched shoots can be erect or creeping. Alternately arranged whole oval leaf plates in length reach 5–12 centimeters, they have a dark green or green color. On the surface of foliage and shoots there is pubescence. Single funnel-shaped flowers are located on short peduncles, they can be irregular or regular, terminal or axillary, double or simple, there are also fringed ones. Flowers can be purple, pink, blue, pale red, white and purple, with a border, a whitish star, a halo or dark veins. The fruit is a bivalve box containing seeds.

on the balconies and garden plots varieties of garden petunia (hybrid) are cultivated, which were bred using wild species of axillary petunia and purple petunia. Flowering begins in July, and ends with the onset of frost. Petunia perennial is always grown as an annual plant.

Sowing

If you sow petunia seeds for seedlings in February, then they will need a backlight. Most gardeners prefer to sow seeds from mid to late March, while it should be noted that due to insufficiently long daylight hours, seed germination is extremely low, so they must be sown with a margin. The substrate for sowing should be taken light, loose and saturated with nutrients. Recommended composition of the substrate: rotted humus, peat, sand and turf or leaf ground (2:2:1:2).

Fill the container with the soil mixture, while the top layer of 10 mm thick should consist of the sifted substrate. 24 hours before sowing, the soil mixture must be thoroughly watered, in which case the seeds can be evenly distributed over its surface. Seeds before sowing must be combined with dry sand. Then they are evenly distributed over the surface of the substrate and moistened with a spray bottle. The top of the container must be covered with a film or glass. Crops are harvested in a warm (from 20 to 23 degrees) place.

After about 7 days, the first seedlings should appear. They will need to be ventilated and moistened from a sprayer every day 2 times a day. It is very important during this period to maintain a high level of air humidity in the mini-greenhouse, however, because of this, a "black leg" may develop on the plants. To prevent this, it is necessary to remove condensation from the film every day immediately after it appears, and the glass must be turned over to the other side. In addition, seedlings should be systematically sprayed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. When the first real leaf plate is formed in the plants, the shelter from the container will need to be removed, the surface of the substrate should be covered with a thin layer of sand, and watering should be reduced.

When the seedlings form 3 or 4 true leaf plates, they should be picked, before that, thoroughly moistening the substrate in the container. Take a stick and carefully pry the plant with it. Pull it out of the soil by holding the leaves, while trying not to shake the substrate from the roots. For picking, individual plastic or peat pots are used, which must be filled with the same substrate. After the plants are picked, they need to be well watered and covered with paper sheets or lutrasil for 2-3 days.

During this period, seedlings must be properly cared for and should be taken seriously. During this period, the substrate should be moderately moist all the time. At this time, a wide variety of factors affect the frequency of irrigation, so in one case, the seedlings will need to be moistened 1 or 2 times in 7 days, and in the other, twice a day. It is very important to systematically loosen the surface of the substrate around the plants. 7 days after the picking, the plant will need to be systematically fed once a week, while the root and foliar feeding methods should be alternated. For top dressing, you can take Kemira, Nitrofoska, Mortar or other water-soluble complex fertilizers, while 25 to 35 grams are taken per 1 bucket of water.

Grandiflora varieties begin to bloom 3 months after sowing seeds, and multiflora varieties - after 2.5 months. Before planting seedlings in open soil, it must be hardened off. To do this, seedlings are taken out into the street during the daytime, or seedlings are transferred to a cool room for several days.

What time to plant

Loamy or sandy loamy fertile soil is suitable for growing petunias, and it will be very good if humus or compost is introduced into it just before planting the plants. It is not recommended to fertilize the soil with manure, because fungal diseases can develop because of it. For planting, choose a well-lit open area. It is necessary to plant seedlings in the spring when there is no threat of return frosts (usually from mid to late May). Landing should be done in the evening or on a rainy day.

Landing Features

When planting flowering seedlings, the flowering of such a petunia will last until November. Since these flowers are most often low, they are planted along the edge of the flower bed. Flowers in pots first need to be watered very abundantly, then they are pulled out along with a clod of earth and planted in a prepared hole. Leave between the plants from 0.3 to 0.4 m of free space. Planted flowers need to be watered. After a day, the surface of the site is covered with a layer of mulch.

Growing a petunia is not too difficult, but before you start planting it, you need to learn all the rules and features of caring for such a plant. Petunia is drought tolerant, but needs to be watered during the hot summer months. It should be noted that small-flowered varieties are less demanding on watering compared to large-flowered ones. Water during irrigation must be poured under the root, otherwise very delicate flowers of the plant can be injured. After the petunia is watered, the next day it is necessary to loosen the surface of the site, while removing all weeds.

If you want flowering to be long and as effective as possible, systematically feed this plant. The first feeding of petunias is carried out 7 days after planting in open soil. Then top dressing is carried out every one and a half weeks until August, using complex fertilizer for this, which contains a large number of potassium. Occasionally petunia can be fed organic fertilizers, for example, humic fertilizers or mullein infusion.

Propagation by cuttings is suitable only for terry and ampelous petunias, and also for all variety groups of mini-petunias (calibrachoa). Terry varieties can be propagated by cuttings in the last weeks of winter, the first in spring, while mini-petunias and ampelous ones are all year round, but for this they need additional illumination with fluorescent lamps, as well as heat (from 21 to 24 degrees).

Cut off the apical cuttings, which should have 4 to 6 leaf blades. Tear off all the leaves except for the top two. The remaining leaves must be shortened by ½ part. Cuttings need to be planted for rooting in the same soil mixture that is used for seedlings. However, in this case, the surface of the substrate should be covered with a layer of perlite or sand 20–25 mm thick, which must be shed with a fungicide solution. Between the cuttings, a distance of 15–20 mm must be observed, and the container is covered with glass from above. It is unnecessary to use growth stimulating agents (for example, Heteroauxin), because freshly cut cuttings take root so well, but you should not delay planting them. The substrate in the greenhouse should be slightly damp all the time; for this, the petunia needs to be moistened twice a day from a spray bottle. However, it should be noted that excessive dampness contributes to the development of "black legs" or mold. Terry and ampelous petunia will fully root after about 7 days, and mini-petunia after 14 days.

After the length of the roots reaches 10-15 mm in length, the plant should be planted in individual pots, the diameter of which should be equal to 50 mm. In order for the plant to bush more strongly, they must be pinched over the 4th or 5th leaf plate. The tops of the stems remaining after pinching can be used as cuttings. After half a month, if necessary, re-pinching the stems. After 6 weeks, such plants are transplanted into pots, the diameter of which reaches 11-13 centimeters. It is necessary to care for growing cuttings in almost the same way as for seedlings. However, it should be borne in mind that ampelous petunias and mini-petunias require a lot free space, in this regard, it is recommended to hang containers with them.

If, when growing a petunia, all the rules of agricultural technology of such a crop are observed, then it will never get sick, and harmful insects will not settle on it. If the plant is not properly cared for, then it sometimes becomes ill with late blight, chlorosis, black leg and gray rot. To combat these diseases, you need to use tools specially designed for this. However, it is better to prevent the development of diseases, for this you just need to properly care for the bushes. Also, this plant can hit viral diseases which are currently considered incurable.

Aphids, thrips, spider mites and slugs can settle on petunias. In order to get rid of them, you should also use drugs specially designed for this.

Seeds should be collected only after they have fully ripened on the bush. During the flowering period, bushes of those varieties from which you will need to collect seeds should be noted. It should be noted that the lower buds are used to collect seeds, because in them the seeds form and ripen faster. After the bud is fully formed, 8 weeks should be detected, after this time the seeds in them will fully mature. The seeds of such a plant are small (approximately half a millimeter in diameter), in one box there are about 100 of them.

Shake out the ripened seeds from the boxes and distribute them into bags, do not forget to sign the year of collection, variety and color of the flower. You can also simply cut the boxes and store them at home. Seeds need to be ripened, for this they are stored for 3-4 months at room temperature. If the seeds are stored correctly, they remain viable for up to four years.

After flowering

If you want to save a petunia, then it should be removed from the soil in October, then all shoots are removed from the bush. The bush is planted in a pot and cleaned in a cool room. Here the flower will rest, but it needs to be watered occasionally so that the earth is moderately moist. A pot with a plant should be transferred to a well-lit warm window sill in February, and systematic watering should be resumed. After 2 or 3 pairs of leaf plates form in young stems, they must be cut off with a “heel”, which are planted in flowerpots filled with nutrient soil, its surface must be covered with a layer of sand. The container must be covered using glass or film, then it is transferred to a small shade. Provide the plants with regular watering, spraying and airing for 20 days until the rooting of the shoots is observed. Then the plant is transplanted into separate cups. They are planted in open soil at the same time as the petunia seedlings.

Unnecessary faded petunia bushes in autumn should be dug up and burned, and the site dug up.

All varieties of garden petunias are divided into 2 groups: large-flowered and many-flowered.

Compared with large-flowered varieties, multi-flowered (multiflora) begin to bloom earlier, while many flowers grow on the bush, having a five-centimeter diameter, they bloom for a relatively long time. Such flowers are picky, they can be grown in any soil, they are not afraid of rain and like sunlight. In this regard, such a petunia can be called a real garden flower. It looks less impressive than plants of large-flowered varieties, but compact bushes covered with flowers of various shades are able to delight with their beauty before the onset of severe frosts. The following varieties of petunia multiflora are most popular:

  1. fantasy. This series consists of 9 hybrids. The height and diameter of the plants are about 0.2 m, the flowers reach 40 mm in diameter, they can be colored: red with veins and a whitish throat, salmon, raspberry red, pale salmon with dark veins, raspberry pink, blue -purple, white, pale pink with a cream throat, etc.
  2. Mirage. This series consists of 13 compact hybrids. The diameter of double flowers is from 60 to 90 mm, they can be colored: pink with dark pink veins, red with burgundy veins, raspberry-burgundy, lilac-pink with purple veins, pink with raspberry-red veins, white, etc.
  3. Plumcrystals. The height of the bush reaches about 0.3 m, and in diameter - 0.25 m. The diameter of its flowers is about 70 mm. Gradually, the color of the flowers turns pale: at first a lilac-pink color, then a pale lilac, and in the end only a little lilac. The veins, painted in burgundy-violet, stand out brightly against the background of the flower.

Large-flowered petunia (grandiflora)

The most common group of hybrids, which includes hundreds of varieties, is the large-flowered petunia (grandiflora). In such plants, the flowers are very large and showy, but they are much smaller than on the bushes of small-flowered varieties. Such a group has one drawback, the fact is that wind and rain can injure flowers, which, because of this, lose their attractiveness. In this regard, large-flowered petunias are usually used for growing in containers or pots indoors, on a terrace or balcony. This group is divided into subgroups:

  • grandiflora- a bush reaches a height of about 0.6 m, smooth flowers have a diameter of 8 to 10 centimeters;
  • large-flowered low- bush height from 0.25 to 0.3 m, other characteristics are similar to the previous subgroup;
  • large-flowered fringed low and large-flowered fringed- bushes reach a height of 0.25–0.3 m and 0.65–0.7 m, respectively, the flowers are fringed, their diameter is about 12 centimeters;
  • large-flowered superior low and large-flowered superior- the height of the bushes is 0.3-0.4 m and 0.5-0.75 m, respectively, smooth flowers have a wide mouth, their diameter is about 10-12 centimeters, there are veins of a darker color on the surface compared to the main background;
  • large-flowered terry- the height of the bush is from 0.5 to 0.6 m, large double flowers in diameter reach from 10 to 12 centimeters, their edge is fringed or smooth.

The following series of large-flowered petunias are very popular:

  1. Hit parade. These hybrids are fast flowering. The height of the bush is about 0.25 m. The flowers can be painted in a variety of colors, for example: crimson, blue with a white star, violet-blue, pink, white, salmon, etc.
  2. picoti. This series includes 4 hybrids, which differ in that they have highly corrugated edges of the petals, which are surrounded by a white border, reaching a width of 15 mm. The bush reaches a height of 0.25 m. The flowers are painted in purple, violet-blue, red, pink and crimson.
  3. purple pirouette. This terry hybrid of purple-violet color, along the fringed edge of the corrugated petals of which there is a white border. The height of the bush reaches 0.25 m.

Petunia floribunda

In addition to these most popular groups of petunias, petunia floribunda is still quite in demand. It occupies an intermediate position between these groups. The flowers of this group are practically not afraid of rain, almost in the same way as the flowers of the multi-flowered petunia. However, in order for such plants to look very beautiful, they must be grown in mass, for this they are planted in large flower beds. Varieties:

  1. Sonia. This series is very popular with gardeners, it includes 11 hybrids. Bushes in height reaches 0.25 m. Flowers can be painted in crimson, burgundy-crimson with a whitish star, white, pale purple with purple veins, pink, pink-crimson with a whitish star, red with a whitish border, red, etc. .
  2. celebrity. This variety series includes hybrids that are resistant to heat and rain. This variety series has thirteen different colors, flowers are two-color, plain or three-color.

There is also a garden group, called ampel or balcony petunias. The plants included in it have flexible and long shoots that tend to grow down. Such flowers are fast-growing and resistant to adverse weather conditions. Popular varieties:

  1. Surfinia. In diameter, the flowers of these plants reach 60–90 mm. However, the miniature varieties included in the composition (Mini Pearl and Pink Mini) have flowers with a diameter of only 5 mm. Flowers can be painted in all possible colors, except for rich yellow and orange.
  2. Tumbelina. This series is the result of the work of the Japanese company Suntory. Terry flowers.
  3. Conchita. The flowers of these hybrids are more similar in size and shape to mini-petunia (calibrachoa) flowers. Small flowers in diameter reach 50 mm, they have different colors, and can be painted in a variety of color shades.

Petunia is a representative of the genus of herbaceous annual plants, native to hot South America. Belongs to the Solanaceae family. It comes in a variety of colors. Petunia blooms all summer and autumn, is not afraid of bad weather and is very easy to grow. Even inexperienced flower growers will cope with its breeding.

Petunia began to be specially grown back in the 18th century. Many new varieties and hybrids have been bred. Some varieties are suitable for flower beds and borders, others decorate balconies and terraces, alpine slides, let a flower carpet on the ground. Depending on the size of the flowers, appearance All varieties of petunias are usually divided into several groups:

  1. multi-flowered petunia
  2. large-flowered petunia
  3. floribunda
  4. ampelous.

multi-flowered petunia

These varieties have a huge number of small flowers with a diameter of 7 cm. The buds grow very densely and almost completely cover the bush. It starts blooming early and blooms until the first cold weather. This is a fairly unpretentious plant, rain and sunlight. Blooms profusely. Colors are found both variegated and monochrome. These petunias are compact and low enough, they are used to decorate flower beds and borders in the form of a carpet flower garden. They are also often sheared, turning into a flower ball. Varieties of multi-flowered petunias that are often grown are the following:

Snowball. Variety with white flowers. Height 30 cm, bud diameter 5 cm. Blooms in June and continues to bloom until the first frost. Resistant to many vagaries of the weather variety of flowers.

Alderman. Height 30 cm. Diameter of blooming flowers 5 cm. Dark blue flowers. Blooms from June until frost.


Debonair F1 Black Cherry. Hybrid American variety of petunia. Grows 30 cm tall and wide. Flowers with a diameter of 6 - 7 cm burgundy with black tints. Plants bloom continuously.


Duo Summer. Terry multi-flowered petunia with sprawling bushes 20 - 30 cm. Leaves are small, buds 7 cm. Pink flowers. Blooms from June to late September.


Large-flowered petunia (grandiflora)

The most common group. Unlike the first petunia, the large-flowered variety has larger flowers, but there are fewer of them. It does not tolerate bad weather, so it is preferred to grow it on terraces or balconies. The following varieties are popular:

Corduroy Parade. Hybrid 25 cm tall. Flowers burgundy-red.


Sonata. Snow - white flowers 12 cm in diameter, simple flower shape.


pink sky. The flowers are bright pink. Large buds.


picoti. Height 30 cm. Flowers 7 cm. Color can be red, crimson or blue with a border white color.


Ampelous petunias

They are distinguished by long falling shoots, densely covered with buds. Petunia ampelous has features.

  1. The length of the growing shoots is from 30 to 120 cm. They fall down, so it is preferable to grow them in hanging pots.
  2. The size of petunia leaves depends on age, the older, the larger.
  3. Flowers are formed along the length of the shoot. They are shaped like a bell.
  4. One plant can grow buds of different colors and sizes.
  5. Rich color palette. Petals are usually two-colored. The inner part is brighter. They like to decorate balconies and terraces, pillars with ampelous plants. Blooms from June until frost.

There are many varieties of ampelous petunias. The popular ones are:

Black velvet has an unusual color. 25 - 30 cm, large flowers 8 cm in diameter, black velvety color.


Masha- a densely branched variety, the length of the released shoots is 80 cm, funnel-shaped flowers, 6 - 7 cm in diameter. Pink color, yellow center.


The Snow Queen is a hybrid, its shoots reach 80 cm. The flowers are snow-white with a pleasant smell.


Explorer widely spread. Large variety of colors. Stems 1.5 meters. The flowers are large, with a wax structure, which allows you to endure bad weather.


floribunda

Petunia floribunda is located between multi-flowered and large-flowered petunias. Handles bad weather well. Flowers 10 cm. Floribunda looks best in mass plantings. Grows well in both sun and shade. Popular varieties:

Sonia- a series that includes 11 varieties. The plant is 25 cm, the bush is very compact. Flowers with a diameter of 8 cm, the color may be different: purple, white, red, pink. May be bicolor.


Milky Way- petunia with shoots of 25 cm. The flowers are snow-white with a pink star inside, reach 10 cm. They begin to bloom in May until the end of autumn frosts. Perfectly tolerate the vagaries of the weather, and do not lose shape after rain.


Angora- a hybrid variety, with erect shoots up to 45 cm in height. Blooms from early June until frost. Flowers 7 cm in size, with wavy edges, double. Pink color.


celebrity- a series of hybrids includes 13, both plain and multi-colored colors. Plants that are resistant to rain and cold are not higher than 30 cm. There are many small buds on the shoot. It is better to plant in groups.


Growing seedlings of petunias

To get strong and high-quality seedlings, you need to be careful about the choice of containers and soil. Seedling boxes should be made of wood, plastic or ceramic. Tanks should be wide and of medium depth. Drainage holes are required. You can use plastic disposable food containers.

Drainage must be placed at the bottom of the container. You can use expanded clay, pebbles. You can buy special drainage in a flower shop. This is necessary so that air passes to the roots, and water does not stagnate in the soil.

Then the containers for seedlings should be disinfected. You can use formalin or potassium permanganate solution. After processing, the container should be thoroughly rinsed with water. If seedlings are planted in a wooden box, a layer of paper, preferably thick, should be laid on the bottom.

Seed selection

Petunia seeds are sold in two forms:

  • in granules;
  • in bulk.

Seeds in granules are more convenient, they have good germination. It is worth deciding on the timing of sowing them for seedlings.

It should be remembered that two months pass between sowing and the first flowers. They begin to plant seedlings from the second half of February, until the very middle of March. It depends on whether it is possible to provide seedlings with additional illumination, since in February there is still insufficient daylight hours.

For seedlings of petunias, neutral or slightly acidic soil is needed. It should be a nutrient mixture, loose, which holds moisture, but does not get wet. You can buy the mixture in the store. Universal ready substrate Stender. For 5 liters of Stender, you should also put half a liter of ash, a large spoonful of potassium sulfate, 250 grams of perlite and mix well.

Another version of the mixture: part garden soil, part sand and two parts peat. Stir, sift through two sieves of different sizes and pour over with a strong solution of manganese. Or use the Previkur solution.


Drainage is poured at the bottom of the container, then an earthen mixture with a layer of 6 cm. At least 3 cm should still remain until the end of the sides. Petunia seeds are very small, they are difficult to sow. Granulated seeds are more convenient. They can be taken with tweezers and placed on the ground in rows.

The seeds are not deepened, they are simply sprinkled with a two millimeter thin layer of soil. If loose small seeds are used, then they can be sown in three ways:

  • use of sand
  • use of snow
  • with a toothpick.

The first method is that the seeds are mixed with sand and distributed over the substrate, watered in advance with water. From above, the crops are slightly moistened using a spray bottle, and sprinkled with a millimeter of soil. A watering can cannot be used, as such watering will greatly deepen the seeds into the soil.

The second method involves sowing petunia seeds on a thin layer of snow, laid in a 1 mm thick layer on the surface of the substrate. Seeds are poured onto the snow and spread over the entire surface with tweezers. When the snow melts, it will pull the seed material to the right depth and moisten the crops. And you don’t need to water it, don’t sprinkle it on top of the earth.

The third method of sowing is using two toothpicks. Seeds are poured onto a white sheet of paper. The seed is picked up with one toothpick, with a tip moistened with water, and shaken off with another toothpick, moistened from above and sprinkled with a substrate.


Having finished sowing, they close the containers with transparent material and take them to a warm room where there is enough light. With a temperature of 25 degrees.

Seeds can be planted in special cassettes for seedlings. You can select by the number of cells. A cassette with cells is useful for repeated use, and seedlings in them do not need picking. Experts advise choosing fairly spacious cells with a height of 10 cm.

The cells are filled with substrate. Caring for seedlings in cassettes is the same as for seedlings in regular boxes. Some flower growers plant seeds in special peat tablets. It is easiest to plant coated seeds in them. We need peat tablets 4.5 cm in diameter. They are placed in water to soak. Next, excess liquid is removed, and the tablets are placed in a container with high edges.

You can use cassettes. One seed is placed in each tablet, watered with a pipette so that the seed coat is soaked. When the shell is wet, you should spread it with your fingers so that the seed germinates faster. Landings are covered with a transparent material.

It is believed that such seedlings are easier to care for, they do not need to be replanted and it is easy to understand when they need watering. In addition, with this method, the germination of petunia seeds is much higher.


seedling care

If everything is done correctly, in a week the first shoots will be visible. Care is very important for flower seedlings:

  • watering;
  • top dressing;
  • lighting;
  • temperature regime;
  • dive;
  • topping;
  • fight against diseases and pests.

Watering

Petunia seedlings need moderate moisture. The soil must not be wet. This can lead to rot and disease. But overdried soil is detrimental to seedlings.

Young plants need drip irrigation. For watering, use a syringe or pipette, pour under the root, do not fall on the leaves. You can pour water along the wall, or use a pallet for watering. Water for irrigation needs settled, room temperature, or slightly warm.

Two minutes before watering, add lemon juice to the water. Water the flowers according to the weather. If the day is sunny, water in the evening. If the weather is cloudy, then watering is carried out in the morning.


top dressing

Feeding young plants is also very important. Fertilizers are recommended to be applied systematically. In the first two weeks, it will be necessary to spray the petunias with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or Pervikur. After the appearance of the fourth leaf, the plants are fertilized with a solution of yellow "Crystal" in the amount of half a tablespoon per 5 liters of water.

Top dressing can be done both on the foliage and by applying fertilizer to the soil. For foliar feeding use "Crystal" and "Uniflora micro". Seedlings are fed three times a week, using two methods in turn. After picking, it is recommended to use dressings that stimulate root growth. Such as Aquarin, Mortar, Plantofol. Everything is prepared according to the instructions.


Temperature regime

Petunia seeds germinate together at 25 degrees. If the temperature is low, the seeds simply will not sprout, and if it is higher, the plants can stretch out very much and start to hurt. After the shoots appear, you will need to open the plants twice a day, starting from 20 minutes.

The cover is completely removed when the plants grow to it. The temperature is reduced to 20 degrees during the day and up to 16 at night.

Lighting

Lighting flowers need almost around the clock. Good lighting enables young plants to grow well and bring the flowering period closer. The length of daylight required is 12 hours. Lighting is turned on in the morning at 7 o'clock, and turned off in the evening at 22 o'clock.

Additional lighting is installed at a height of 20 cm from the seedlings. For this purpose, LED, fluorescent, phytolamps are used.


picking

Dive seedlings are carried out, if only it grew in common boxes. For picking, 250 ml cups with holes for drainage are selected. When the seedlings are 5 cm in height, they start diving.

  1. Plants dive to a depth of 3 cm with a sharp garden knife. The knife is inserted at an angle of 45 degrees. It turns out that by pinching off a piece of the root, the development of the root system is stimulated.
  2. The flower is placed in a separate container.
  3. Sprinkle the substrate to fill the voids. Watered.
  4. The temperature for a week is reduced by three degrees, and sunlight is avoided.
  5. You can feed only after a week and a half.

If seedlings are grown in tablets, then seedlings can be planted in an individual container with it.

Pinching

Pinching is done to all varieties of petunias, except for ampelous varieties. It consists in removing a piece of the stem on the 4th and 5th leaves along with the growing point.

Young shoots will come from each leaf axil, and in the future such plants will bloom profusely. After half a month, a second pinch is carried out. To get a lush bush, you need to pinch several times.

Improper adherence to the irrigation regime, excessive moisture, can lead to black leg disease. A dark spot forms at the base of the shoot, the tissue underneath becomes soft and rots. A constriction forms and the plant falls.

All diseased seedlings are to be destroyed, and the soil is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate or formalin.

Often, from excess moisture, petunia seedlings may be deficient in iron. In this case, iron chelate, which is contained in the composition of Ferovit, should be added to the soil. Conversely, excessive dryness leads to the appearance spider mite, which settles on the leaves. For the fight, special preparations are used: Neoron and Fitoverm.

Petunia transplant

When, after the picking, the seedlings take root and grow, they begin to prepare it for planting. For two weeks, the plant is hardened, accustomed to fresh air. Start with 15 minutes outdoors. And before planting, the flowers should spend in the air around the clock.

Planting flowers begin from the second half of May to mid-June. Petunia is a fairly unpretentious plant, but still loves sunny areas more. Prefers loamy, fertile soil. The earth is dug up, humus or compost is introduced, weeds are removed.


Seedlings of flowers are planted when there is no sun, or in the evening.

The holes should be ten cm deep. The distance depends on the selected variety. Between large-flowered - 23 - 25 cm, between small-flowered - 18 - 20 cm. Ampelous plants are planted 28 - 30 cm apart. Before planting, seedlings are watered for better extraction from containers.

In order not to damage the roots, they are planted together with a clod of earth. After planting, the flowers are watered, the soil nearby is mulched with humus or peat. For several days, the petunia needs to be protected from strong sunlight. This can be done with awnings cardboard boxes.

flower care

Care is:

  • in timely watering;
  • in systematic feeding;
  • in the plucking of wilted flowers.

Petunia should be watered only in dry weather, preferably in the evening. The plant does not like excessive moisture and when water stagnates in the hole. It is enough just to slightly moisten the ground around the roots. The next day, the earth is loosened so that a crust does not form, and weeds are removed.

The beauty and duration of the flowering period of petunias depends on regular top dressing. After 10 days, the plant is fertilized for the first time. Use nitrogen-containing top dressing. Well proven nitroammophoska.


During the formation of buds, potassium salt and superphosphate are used. You can use wood ash from a fire. If the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off, the plant may have chlorosis. This means he lacks iron. In this case, Ferovit will help. They are sprayed with petunia 3-5 times with a period of three days.

Flowers that have faded are removed. This encourages the plant to form new buds and prolong flowering. With the help of the pinching procedure, they give a beautiful shape to the bush.

You can make a bush in the form of an unusual flower ball with many blossoming buds.

We collect seeds

If you need petunia seeds for seedlings for next year, you should select a few lower buds on bushes of selected varieties. The process of seed formation in these buds is faster. After 60 days from the formation of buds, the seeds will ripen.

The boxes are cut, the seeds are poured out and stored at room temperature. Each box contains about 100 seeds. They are very small, about half a millimeter. Then four months the seeds ripen at home. They do not lose their germination for about four years.

It is best to distribute the seeds into bags, and sign where which variety is, so as not to confuse.


Pests and diseases of flowers

Petunia is a fairly hardy plant, but still it is prone to disease and insect pests love it. Diseases to which they are subject:

  1. Powdery mildew - common fungal disease, affects both leaves and buds. It spreads from bottom to top. A white coating, starting from the leaves, covers the entire plant. The leaves dry up and curl up.
  2. Gray rot is also a fungus that can destroy a plant in a few days. Brown spots appear in the lower part of the petunia, then they dry out and become covered with a fluffy coating. The whole plant is affected.
  3. The black leg is a disease that can pass from one seedling to another. The stem at the bottom of the plant darkens and rots, the plant falls off the root. The disease can destroy all flowers.

To combat these diseases, it is recommended to treat seeds, destroy diseased plants, observe the irrigation regime, prevent soil acidification and use drugs such as Skor, Bravo, Topaz to combat powdery mildew. From gray rot use "Trichodermin", "Integral", "Skor". From black leg"Trichodermin".

  1. Spider mite colonies form sticky webs on plants. White spots form on the leaves, they increase in size. The leaves dry up and fall off. The parts of the plant on which the aphid has settled are covered with sweet dew, then a sooty fungus appears. Leaves curl. Aphids cause viral diseases in petunias.
  2. Thrips are small insects that live on leaves. The buds are deformed, the plant withers.

Chemical preparations that are sprayed on plants will help against pests. Such as: "Spintor - 240", "Confidor", "Aktar".

Petunias are beautiful flowers with a delicate fragrance. There are a large number of colors that you can choose from for every taste. Ranging from snowy whites to exotic blacks. And also pink of all shades, purple, red, blue, multi-colored and many others. And most importantly, petunia is an unpretentious plant, a little knowledge, a little work and flowers will delight the entire summer season.