Get generous. How to get a generous harvest of blueberries in the country. Drip irrigation is the best for tomatoes

Raspberries are a favorite berry of many gardeners. It is valued not only for its amazing taste and aroma, but also for its unpretentiousness in cultivation and care. Experienced gardeners it is recommended to plant raspberries in the fall, when the survival rate of seedlings is highest.

Pros and cons of planting in the fall

Raspberry seedlings are planted both in spring and autumn. But landing in the fall is preferable for a number of reasons:

• autumn weather is optimal for good rooting of seedlings;
• raspberries planted in autumn next spring grow well green mass and give the first harvest;
• a large selection of different varieties;
• with the advent of autumn, there is more free time for planting raspberries.

Remontant raspberries are planted according to the same rules and terms as simple ones.

minus autumn planting is that it is necessary to plant raspberries about a month before the first frost. Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the weather forecast and not be late with the landing dates.

Selection of raspberry seedlings

Choose healthy seedlings that match the declared variety.

1. Do not buy seedlings in spontaneous markets. Purchase them from nurseries or specialty garden stores.

Purchase raspberry seedlings from nurseries or specialty garden stores.

1. A healthy seedling has 2 to 5 shoots. What length and thickness they are does not matter, since when planting they are shortened by 10–35 cm.
2. Pay attention to the base of the seedling - there should be replacement buds from which young shoots will grow (at least three).
3. If the root system is open, then it should be well branched and quite powerful. Roots should be elastic. Dry and rotten roots are a sign of poor-quality seedlings.

Pay attention to the root system of a raspberry seedling: the roots must be elastic, at the base of the seedling there must be replacement buds

1. Do not buy seedlings whose roots are wrapped in plastic wrap. Even in healthy-looking seedlings, due to prolonged waterlogging, the process of decay may begin in the root system.
2. It is best to buy seedlings grown in containers (closed root system). The roots are not damaged during transplantation, the substrate has all the necessary nutrients, and such plants can be planted at any time from spring to autumn.

Raspberry seedlings grown in containers, the best planting material

I prefer to buy seedlings grown in containers. Such seedlings do not have regrading, they are convenient to transport. Well, in my opinion, there is no need to rush into planting in open ground - the seedling feels great in a container. All the seedlings bought in containers have taken root well.

How to plant raspberries in autumn

In order for seedlings to successfully overwinter, it is necessary to observe the terms and rules of planting.

Landing dates

Depending on the climatic conditions of the region and on the raspberry variety, the optimal planting dates are chosen.

The main condition is to plant seedlings 20–30 days before the onset of frost. Different regions of Russia have their own landing dates:

• in central Russia, raspberries are planted from early September to October 20;
• in the southern regions, landing is carried out from mid-September to the last days of October;
• in the northern regions, you need to have time to plant raspberries in early September or transfer the planting to spring time.

These landing dates are indicative. The weather is changeable, and each autumn can be different from the previous one. Carefully follow the weather forecast and choose the timing of planting seedlings this year.

Site selection

Raspberries in one place grows up to 10 years. Therefore, it is necessary to select and prepare a site according to certain rules:

1. Plant raspberries in a sunny spot. In the shade of trees, the berries will be small and the yield will be low.
2. In winter, a frosty wind can destroy raspberry stems, and in spring it can knock down the ovaries. Therefore, plant it along the fence or along the buildings on the south side.
3. Raspberries grow well on fertile loamy and sandy soils.
4. The plant is moisture-loving and does not like drought, but without stagnant water. The soil likes well-drained and breathable.

Step-by-step instruction

Having chosen a site, proceed to planting seedlings. As a rule, raspberries are planted in two ways:

• bush;
• trench.

Bush method

With this method, raspberries are planted in pits.

1. Dig planting pits, where the depth and diameter are 40x40 cm. The distance between rows is 1.8–2 m, between adjacent pits is 0.7–1 m.

Plant raspberries according to the scheme: between rows - 1.8 m, between adjacent plants - 0.7 m

1. Add a bucket of manure or compost to the hole.
2. Mix the excavated earth well with mineral fertilizers: 20 g of potassium sulfate, 30 g of superphosphate and 250 g of wood ash and fill the hole halfway.
3. Straighten the roots and place at the bottom of the pit. Deepen the root neck by 2-3 cm.

Deepen the root neck by 2-3 cm

1. Fill the roots with the remaining soil, slightly lifting and shaking the seedling so that the earth evenly fills the voids between the roots.
2. Firm the soil around the seedling with your hands and water well.
3. Cut off the top of the seedling, leaving a shoot 20–30 cm long.
4. Mulch the planting site with sawdust, leaves, plant debris, etc.

With the bush method, a raspberry seedling is planted in a hole

trench method

This method is more labor intensive. But it allows you to get a higher yield, since the nutrients are evenly distributed throughout the raspberries.

1. Make a mark with two pegs and a rope. Dig a trench 40–50 cm wide and 40 cm deep.

Dig a trench 40–50 cm wide and 50 cm deep

1. Lay a nutrient layer at least 10 cm high at the bottom of the trench. This can be rotted manure mixed with the ground, branches, fallen leaves, weeds and other organic debris. This layer, decomposing, will be the source of nutrition for raspberries for 4-5 years.

Lay a nutrient pad at the bottom of the trench

1. From above, pour a layer of excavated garden soil or peat 10 cm high. Thanks to this layer, the process of decay of organic matter will be accelerated and it will protect the roots of the seedlings from contact with decaying residues.
2. Start planting seedlings in the trench, keeping a distance of at least 40-50 cm. Gently straighten the roots and cover the seedling with soil. It is more convenient to plant raspberries in a trench with a partner: one person holds the seedling, the other pours the earth.

It is more convenient to plant raspberries in a trench with a partner

Compliance with the terms and rules for planting seedlings in the fall will allow you to lay raspberries, which will give good harvest many years.

By planting cucumbers for seedlings, it will be possible to get an early and bountiful harvest fragrant and juicy beauties. The smell of freshness and bright taste makes cucumbers so popular with gardeners. But there are times when plants bloom, but the ovaries do not appear. Most often, the problem is an untimely landing. Always take into account the climate, the weather and the day, according to lunar calendar. The combination of these factors will help to achieve an unprecedented harvest.

Cucumbers for seedlings when to plant: how to navigate when to sow cucumbers for seedlings

The main indicator for sowing is the weather. First of all, it is important to focus on the climatic conditions of the region. The southern part of the country transplants cucumber sprouts to a permanent place in early May, and the middle lane - at the end of May. So you need to focus on the timing of planting in open ground.

It is best to plant seedlings of green beauties when the air temperature no longer drops below + 5 ° C. Otherwise, there is to be left without a harvest. Having decided on the approximate date, you need to subtract three weeks from it. So it will turn out the day of sowing for seedlings. If transplantation is carried out between April and June, then it is reasonable to sow from mid-March to the end of May.

Get good seedlings will help correct selection all components. First you need to choose high-quality seeds. Then a container for sowing. There are several options for this question. The most popular of them:

- peat pots. They have one drawback - the soil dries up quickly in them;

- peat and coconut tablets, which contribute to the rapid and friendly growth of shoots;

- eggshell, if sown a week before planting, otherwise the roots simply have nowhere to develop;

- a pot of newspaper. The principle is similar to peat pots, only cheaper in price. The downside is that the paper quickly soaks and falls apart.

When to plant cucumbers for seedlings: exact planting dates according to the lunar calendar

The main thing to remember is to plant cucumber seedlings before they bloom. This is why accurate date selection is so important. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that the germination of seeds in cups is not only higher, but also faster. If you plan to plant self-pollinated varieties, then they are sown first. Later, those used for greenhouses and, last but not least, varieties for planting in open ground.

The lunar calendar has long been a reliable assistant to garden lovers. It contains a lot of useful information on various topics that concern vegetable growers. In it you can find tips on sowing, planting, picking, pest control, treatment of plants from pests, fertilization and auspicious days for the implementation of this or that work on the beds.

The main thing to know: do not plant anything in the ground during the full moon and the days of the lunar eclipse. In 2018, the optimal days for sowing cucumber seeds and planting in open ground will be April 10,18,19,20,21,23,24,25,26,27,28

How to get a generous harvest of strawberries (garden strawberries). Tips for growing strawberries.

Strawberries (and that's right - garden strawberries) is loved by everyone, as it is perhaps one of the most delicious berries. And therefore it is grown everywhere, constantly applying new technologies to increase productivity. To get a good harvest, you need to follow some rules.

To begin with, you need to pick up a site without shadows with a southern slope of 1-3 degrees (strawberries love the sun). Also level ground water should not exceed 80 cm. The site must be protected from the cold northwest winds that prevail in our country.

Strawberries, like most other crops, produce the most bountiful harvest on neutral soil - pH should be 5.5 (optimal), a minimum of 5, and a maximum of 6.5. An elementary analysis can be carried out as follows: the soil must be mixed in rain (distilled) water in a ratio of 1: 3, and a litmus test should be lowered into the resulting suspension. Red means acidic, yellow slightly acidic, green neutral, and a shift towards the blue spectrum indicates that the soil is alkaline.

Unfortunately, such an analysis will not give a sufficiently specific idea of ​​​​acidity, since the litmus indicator shows only shades of colors, not numbers. Better with this task, special portable instruments for measuring acidity are able to cope. The pH tester is a digital display and a long probe that is lowered into the soaked soil or solution. The analysis should be carried out in different areas. If the device shows increased acidity, it is necessary to carry out liming of the soil in accordance with the degree of acidity.

It is clear that without fertilizers there can be no talk of high yields of strawberries. Before planting, it is necessary to make humus from manure with the calculation of 5 kg per square meter and then carefully plant it into the soil. Also, even before planting, it is necessary to apply nitrogen fertilizers - 40-50 grams per square meter, and the same amount during the growing season. But it is advisable to first conduct a preliminary analysis, otherwise, with an overdose of nitrogen fertilizers, the development of the plant will go to the tops, and you will not see high yields. Also, before planting, you need to add superphosphates and magnesium fertilizers: 50 g and 100 g per square meter, respectively. Before planting, you need to apply 50 g of potash fertilizers per square meter, and the same amount of double feeding (with water) during the flowering period. To reduce costs, fertilizers should be applied in ribbons at the sites of future ridges, or locally at planting sites. It is also worth noting that the best predecessor of strawberries is potatoes.

If you plant strawberries in August-September, then the plants will have time to take root and successfully overwinter. And if planting is done in the spring, then you will need to cut the flower stalk, and you will receive the harvest only after a year. If the peduncle is left, the plant will be severely depleted and may die next winter.

Strawberries are planted in pre-prepared holes in the ridge, which should be raised about 15 cm above the general level of the soil. Before planting, it is necessary to water the hole with water, the roots should be in an upright position, and the root collar, “heart” should be at the level of the soil. Too deep planting will lead to rotting of the "heart", too high planting and exposure of the roots are also harmful. If the budget allows, then lay peat washers under the root. And if you plant seedlings of "your own preparation", then keep in mind that only the first two "daughters" along the tendril from the main bush will become strong and fertile, the rest can be safely cut off and sent to compost.

You can plant strawberries either in one or two rows. In the first case, there should be 70 cm between the rows and 40 between the bushes, and in the second, the distance between the bushes in a double row should be 20 cm. After rains and irrigation, the earth near the bushes will settle, and therefore it will be necessary to carry out hilling.

After planting, it is necessary to water each plant with 0.5-1 l of water. And in the future, also focus on this norm. It is advisable to water with separated and warmed water, and not immediately with cold well or from a well. It is usually possible to irrigate with a drip irrigation system or from a hose, under the root. But sometimes, at least once every two weeks, in the absence of natural precipitation, it is necessary to carry out sprinkling, and at night. But you can not water with sprinkling during the flowering period. There are no uniform norms for the frequency of watering, the main thing is to make sure that the soil does not dry out, but does not get wet either. You should increase the intensity of watering (up to 3 liters per plant) during the pouring of berries, and then during the ripening (redness) period, watering should be reduced, otherwise the strawberries may lose their taste. And after harvesting, re-saturate the plants with moisture.

To get berries in different periods, it is necessary to divide the plot into quarters and plant an early, middle and late variety on them. You can apply another technique - place part of the beds in a more shaded area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden. Then the strawberries will keep up a couple of weeks later. There are also varieties that bear fruit twice: in spring and autumn. To increase the yield, you need to regularly trim the mustache, not allowing their length to increase by more than 8 cm, as they greatly deplete the plants. For mustache propagation, several mother bushes or old bushes growing on already depleted soil for several years in a row are used, intended for transplantation or removal.

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Many people love summer for the opportunity to go on vacation to the ends of the world, someone likes it for the warmth and sea breeze, and you love summer for strawberries! At first, you didn’t even feel the difference between store-bought strawberries and grown by your grandmother or mother in the garden in front of the house - it was very tasty, but always too small. The time has come, and you yourself have already decided to plant this berry on your site, harvest a rich harvest in order to feast on plenty and absolutely not worry about the presence of nitrates in it.

Spring is the most the best time for planting strawberry bushes, therefore, today we will discuss some of the features of growing a delicious berry, reveal the secrets of professionals to get a rich harvest and do not forget to report on the "pitfalls" that make it difficult to care for it.



Acquisition of several varieties of early, middle and late deadline ripening will allow you to enjoy your favorite taste from the beginning of June until late autumn with almost no interruption. Ask your neighbors in the country what varieties bear fruit well in your area. By the way, you need to be friends with your neighbors - as a novice gardener, they can give you not only valuable advice, but also hand over seedling bushes absolutely free of charge, as well as water the garden if you could not get to the dacha for a long time.

Strawberry cultivation and care

1. Choose a site for landing. The sunniest clearings on your site will suit strawberries - the longer the time it is in the sun, the sweeter the berries will be. The best predecessor for strawberries is potatoes. We refuse sites on the slopes, where the winds are walking and moisture does not have time to soak into the soil, as well as those located in the lowland, where, on the contrary, water stagnates. Soil pH should be neutral.

2. We apply fertilizer. Humus and nitrogen fertilizers are best applied a few days before planting. Under each bush it will be good to lay a peat tablet.

3. We make out a bed. The height of the beds above ground level should be 10-15 cm for easy weeding and cleanliness of the berries when harvesting.

4. Planting strawberries. In the garden, it is necessary to make holes for each bush, the distance between them is about 30 centimeters. Pour water into each hole and plant the roots vertically, lightly sprinkling them with earth. Watch the core of the bush - you can not fill it with earth or dig in. Pour the soil with water between the beds at the rate of at least 1 liter per bush, periodically loosen the soil and wait for the harvest.



Underwater rocks:

Spring planting of strawberries requires the mandatory removal of flower stalks in the year of planting, since she needs strength to form a good bush;

Strawberries do not like weeds - you will have to ensure their timely removal or plant bushes on spandbond (non-woven covering material);

Mustaches grow on strawberry bushes at great speed - you have to constantly cut them off;

Birds and slugs can harvest for you - the most cunning and nimble will be able to feast on the sweet berry, so you have to try to be the first in time.

Selection of planting material




It is better to buy seedlings, since growing strawberries with seeds is a rather troublesome and time-consuming process, and you will receive a crop at best in a couple of years. Plants should be with shiny, leathery leaves, rich green. Make sure that they are free of spots, dots and not shriveled, as these are diseased bushes. Choose seedlings with a well-developed core - so you can get a rich harvest. Study strawberry cultivation videos on the Internet, as sometimes it is better to see once than to hear and read a hundred times.

There is another very important point to increase productivity and palatability strawberries - mulching. Use humus or peat, straw, sawdust or dry grass as mulch and you will provide strawberries with constant top dressing and retain moisture.



A huge plus of mulching:

Protection against infection with gray rot;

Increase in productivity up to 40%;

Reducing the ripening period to two weeks.

May the beautiful strawberry always please you in your garden or vegetable garden with summer sweet, juicy and such healthy berries, and garden work brings only pleasure!

Compliance water balance- one of the main conditions successful cultivation healthy, plentiful, delicious harvest tomatoes. For the successful growth of luxurious tomato bushes, a competent combination of proper watering and dry air is necessary. Let's find out how to water tomato seedlings, what are the basic principles and rules for caring for seedlings.

Consequences of incorrect watering

If the seedlings receive insufficient moisture, the deep layers of the soil remain permanently dry. As a result, the roots dry up and die. A similar situation occurs if you water the seedlings of tomatoes by spraying, since the top layer of the earth visually looks well moistened, but the water does not penetrate deeper. With proper water procedures, the soil is evenly moistened from above and inside.

It is better to water the plants once abundantly than often and little by little.

In turn, an excess of water prevents air circulation, the roots experience a lack of oxygen, develops root rot- a disease that is very difficult to fight, most often the seedlings die.

To avoid stagnant water, a drainage hole is made in the container where the seedlings are grown.

Main principles

Many gardeners are well aware that tomatoes love moisture, but this does not mean that watering tomato seedlings should be frequent, plentiful and uncontrolled. Seedlings will quickly rot, not pleased with the harvest.

How often watered

The optimal schedule for adding water is 1 time per week. Of course, this schedule may vary, many factors are taken into account:

• plant age;
• chemical composition and the condition of the soil;
• climatic conditions;
• specific variety.

As for the amount of water, it all depends on the age of the plants. Young seedlings are more sensitive to incorrect schemes and non-compliance with norms - on the one hand, their need for water is much less than that of mature, mature seedlings, on the other hand, young plants die faster from overdrying.

The length of the roots of adult plants reaches one and a half meters, at such a depth there is always moisture. That is why strengthened bushes more easily tolerate a lack of moisture, of course, if we are not talking about constant drought.

You can not pour water on the leaves, flowers and fruits from above. Water is poured in two ways:

• under the root;
• along the aisles.

Water temperature

Experts say that you need to water the seedlings only warm water. The best option- the water temperature should correspond to the temperature of the soil, on average + 23- + 24 ° С. To heat water, it is stored in barrels.

Instruments

During the period of growth of seedlings until the moment of planting seedlings in open ground, it is necessary to water the plants with extreme caution. Before germination, it is preferable to use small watering cans, many make them on their own.

This is necessary so as not to damage the seeds and weak seedlings. When 2-3 leaves appear on the sprouts, watering cans with a volume of no more than 1.5 liters are used. As you grow, you can use regular mugs.

Features of soil moisture in different periods of growth

The basic rules of water procedures for tomato bushes are formulated taking into account the growth period of seedlings, their age.

Watering seedlings until planting in open ground

Sprouted seeds are sown, having previously moistened the soil, added dropwise, covered with a film and kept until the first shoots appear. On the this stage water is not required.

After the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings open, after 2-3 days all the seeds hatch. At this stage, the root system is too weak, so only spray irrigation is allowed when the topsoil is too dry.

Water procedures are started only when 2-3 leaves appear on the seedlings, and the earth dries up. Water is brought under the root, carefully so that drops do not fall on the leaves. It is best to use a small watering can.

A few days before the dive, the plants need to be watered and fed - this should be the first top dressing.

After diving, it is impossible to water the bushes for 4-5 days. Excess moisture at this stage slows down and complicates the process of adaptation of seedlings.

Five days later, they switch to the standard mode - on average 1 time per week. The mode varies according to individual characteristics. In summer, tomatoes are watered twice a week, in cloudy weather - no more than 1 time in 10 days. Before each watering, it is necessary to carefully check the soil so as not to flood the bushes.

A few months later, tomato seedlings grow stronger, gain strength, they are planted in a permanent place of growth - in open ground or a greenhouse. For several days before transplanting, the bushes are watered, this will help to easily remove the plants without damaging the root system.

VIDEO: How often to water seedlings

At the seedling stage in the greenhouse

A special microclimate has been created here, which is important to maintain. Optimal greenhouse conditions:

• soil moisture - 90%;
• air humidity - 50%.

Any deviation from the norm will either lead to decay, or to overheating and death of plants. A container of water is left near the greenhouse and covered from above.

1. Tomato seedlings are watered in the morning, because evening water procedures increase the humidity level in the greenhouse, and a humid environment is the source of many diseases.
2. After water procedures, the room is ventilated, this is necessary to avoid the greenhouse effect.
3. To slow down the evaporation of moisture, the soil is mulched with straw, sawdust or fresh grass.

1. 2-3 weeks before harvesting, the soil is not moistened so that the tomatoes are not watery.

After planting the seedlings in the greenhouse, until the root system has grown stronger, it is watered once a week, pouring 2 to 3 liters of water under the bush. After the appearance of flowers, the regime of water procedures is maintained, but the volume of water for one plant increases to 4-5 liters. From the moment the fruits are formed, the plants need more intensive care - the soil is moistened twice a week, as soon as the tomatoes begin to turn red, water procedures are reduced to 1 time per week. At the same time, the volume of water is also halved.

Features of irrigation of seedlings in open ground

In this case, the principle of watering is preserved - better less often and more than more often and less. The frequency of irrigation and the volume of water largely depend on weather conditions - air temperature and the amount of precipitation.

The water must be room temperature. Water procedures are carried out not only in the morning, but also in the afternoon, the main thing is that the water has time to soak into the soil before sunset. On cloudy days there are no time limits. It is important to regularly loosen the soil so as not to impede air circulation.

Young bushes just planted in the ground are allowed to be watered more often, but moderately. A similar scheme is followed during the period of fruit formation.

The rest of the time, the watering regimen is 1-2 times a week. If the moisture is more than the permissible norm, the tomatoes will lose their characteristic sugar content.

How to determine the level of soil moisture

The soil	State	Watering mode	Humidity level, %
	You can't roll a lump	Needs abundant watering	Less than 25%
Moderate	The lump rolls down, but crumbles when it hits the shovel	Standard	25% to 50%
	A lump is formed, the earth does not stick to hands and does not crumble from hitting a shovel	Only needed in hot weather	50% to 75%
A great	The lump rolls down, the earth sticks to the hands	Conducted no earlier than a week	75% to 100%
	Water is released from the earth when rolling into a lump	Stopped for a few weeks	More than 100%

How often to water tomato seedlings open field, and in what quantity? Immediately after transplanting, one teaspoon of water is enough for one seedling. Adult plants require 4 to 5 liters.

If young bushes are watered in excess of the norm, the root system begins to rot, the growth of plants slows down, as a result they die.

After transplantation, the bushes are not watered for two weeks, after which water is applied under the seedlings once every three days, on hot days the frequency of water procedures increases.

Water quality requirements

Watering tomatoes is important not only correctly and according to the scheme, but also to choose the right water.

The water temperature varies from 21 to 23°C.

Watering cold water- this is the main cause of the development of diseases, the most dangerous of which is late blight.

The best solution is to water the plants with melt or rain water. It is preferable to use such water at the stage while the bushes are small - this will give the plants health and accelerate the growth of leaves, inflorescences and the formation of fruits.

Feed the tomatoes along with watering, it is best to dilute the fertilizer in water.

The ideal method of watering is drip. In this case, water enters the soil slowly and does not damage the root system.

Irrigation requires soft water. It is strictly forbidden to use tap water, because it has a lot of extra impurities that make it hard and even dangerous for tomatoes.

Boiling helps soften water. Of course, boil water for watering a large number of adult bushes, so it is enough to stand it in barrels for several days.

Drip irrigation is the best for tomatoes

What are the advantages of such a solution:

• carrying water in buckets is difficult, especially when we are talking about in large numbers bushes;
• watering with a hose does not make it possible to control the amount of water and the flow pressure, so there is a high risk of damaging the root system;
• drip irrigation properly moisturizes the soil - moistening is uniform, in the volume necessary for tomatoes, a crust does not form on the surface, moisture does not evaporate, waterlogging does not occur in the greenhouse;
• water flows directly to the root system, eliminating the likelihood of falling on the stems and leaves.

The drip irrigation system is easy to install yourself. In this case, the harvest will surely turn out to be generous and tasty.

How to make a simple but effective system

This will require plastic bottles, holes are made over the entire surface, the bottom is cut off, and the neck is closed with a lid. Bottles are dug into the ground near each bush upside down. Water is poured and the lid is unscrewed, so that water seeps through the holes drop by drop, irrigation occurs.

VIDEO: A time-tested way to grow pepper and tomato seedlings