Installation of electrical wiring in the sauna. Which wire to use for baths and saunas. General provisions for electrical wiring

High humidity and high temperatures can equally adversely affect the condition of the electrical wiring and create a fire hazard.

Preliminary preparation

Familiarize yourself with the Rules for the installation of electrical installations (PUE). On the territory of Russia, the 7th edition of this document is valid.

In these Rules, in section 7, you will find clear requirements for the installation of electrical wiring and electrical appliances in rooms with high humidity and temperature.

Draw a wiring diagram in the bath and decide where and what equipment will be installed in the bath, where and what lamps, sockets, switches will be installed, which wires and how many of them in footage you will need for outdoor and indoor wiring. The choice of wire section depends on the number of electrical equipment and lighting fixtures. Learn how to correctly calculate the power (load) that your electrical network will carry in the bath, determine the optimal illumination of the room.

Study the issue of grounding a detached building and also have information about the local power grid, since our networks did not previously provide for grounding in each individual house.

Requirements for laying electrical wiring in the bath

  • All cables are laid only in strictly horizontal or vertical directions.
  • The angles of the wires are laid only at a right angle (90 degrees).
  • The horizontal wiring line can be located no closer than 10-20 cm from the ceiling and must run parallel to it.
  • The distance of the wires from the doors must be more than 10 cm. The same applies to the switches near the window.
  • From metal objects, batteries, wires should be laid at a distance of no closer than 50 cm.
  • Switches can be located at a height of up to 1 meter from the floor surface.

It should also be borne in mind that European standard sockets are located at a distance of 30 cm from the floor level, sockets and switches can be located no closer than 60 cm from the shower door, cabling from the switchboard is made with a single piece of cable.

Wiring can only be connected in a junction (junction) box, which has a high degree of protection against moisture and dust. The electrical panel is mounted as close as possible to the input of the supply cable.

Forbidden

  • Lay wires against doorways and in the corners of walls.
  • Connect more than two lamps to one switch.
  • No bending or twisting of wires is allowed.
  • Wire twisting is not allowed - wire connections can only be made using soldering, welding, screw or bolt clamps and terminals.
  • Hide and hide junction (junction) boxes.
  • And a few more preliminary recommendations:
  • Before starting installation, draw on the walls with a pencil the main cable routes (by level) and mark the points of equipment, lamps, switches, sockets.

Save the electrical network diagram on paper in case you have to do repair work in future.

Features of connecting electrical wiring in baths and saunas

Conducting electrical wiring in places of increased risk of electric shock and fire safety, such as a bath or sauna, requires special rules.

In terms of wiring:

It is necessary to stretch a separate, independent line for the supply of electricity from the main switchboard with a separate circuit breaker, and also mount a separate ground loop. According to the recommendations of the PUE in the steam room, wiring that can withstand temperatures up to 170-180 degrees should be used.

According to the requirements of the PUE, it is necessary to apply hidden system electrical wiring, while open wiring is allowed. Open wiring is allowed in wooden walls oh baths, that is, wires can be led along the surface of the walls, and therefore it is better to place them in less noticeable places. AT brick walls electrical wiring must be hidden, that is, pass behind a layer of plaster.

Electrical wires must not touch directly wooden walls or wooden finishes. Therefore, wiring is carried out in closed boxes or on a refractory surface (route). To do this, under any electrical equipment, sockets and switches, special heat-resistant linings made of ceramics or aceid sheets, or asbestos strips (at least 3 mm thick and 10 mm protrusion over the cable on both sides) are placed, which serve as an excellent insulating material. A route is mounted from a heat-resistant material that does not conduct current. It is necessary to calculate the distance between objects in advance in order to strengthen the insulators at approximately the same distance from each other. On log walls along horizontal lines, insulators are mounted along the log at a distance of 35-40 cm from each other. Insulators are installed along the vertical lines for installing electrical appliances, two for each log. The insulators are screwed with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver at an angle of 45 degrees up and down.

In terms of instruments and equipment:

  • RCD (residual current device) in switchboard is a prerequisite for application. The task of the RCD is to compare the current passing in phase and zero. And if the difference between these values ​​\u200b\u200bis more than the limiting threshold of the RCD (that is, current leakage occurs), then the RCD will automatically turn off the phase and zero. For baths, an RCD of 5-10mA is used.
  • Sockets in the bath must withstand a load of 10-16 A, be splash-proof, with covers, protection class IP-44 and higher. The same applies to switches, junction boxes and fixtures.
  • Electrical equipment may only be used specifically designed for use in rooms with high humidity. It is better to place all equipment not built into the electric heater outside the saunas.
  • if it is placed in the steam room, then the PUE insists on the use of a temperature limiter, due to which, when the temperature reaches 140 degrees, the electric furnace will be disconnected from the voltage.
  • can be installed in the washing room, in the corner, closer to the door or in the dressing room. If you are going to install a stove-heater, then it must be positioned in such a way that chimney the length was as small as possible, and it must also be protected with heat-resistant railings to prevent fire.
  • for a steam room should be with a wooden lampshade, a heat-resistant, moisture-proof shade and a ceramic cartridge. The metal parts of the fixtures must be grounded. In the sink, any lamp designed for bathrooms is suitable. The operating voltage should not exceed 24 volts in fixtures.
  • should be connected to the cable immediately after it exits the wall or ceiling, in order to minimize the passage of wires along the walls in the steam room and washing room.

Forbidden

In terms of wiring:

  • It is not allowed to twist, break and connect wires in the washing and steam rooms.
  • It is strictly forbidden to lead an electric cable over the stove.
  • It is not allowed to run cables in metal pipes, sleeves or with metal sheaths, as well as on tin surfaces.
  • In terms of instruments and equipment
  • Plug sockets, switches and junction boxes are not allowed to be installed in the steam room, washing rooms and in rooms containing heaters for baths and saunas, they are installed in the dressing room or in the rest room.
  • It is also better to place the electric heater in another room.
  • Lamps for the bath are best used wall-mounted, with soft, diffused lighting.
  • The number of lamps and their placement depends on the area of ​​the room.
  • Natural lighting is also welcome, for which one window is enough.
  • In pendant lights, it is better to use lamps no more than 60 watts.
  • Steam room lighting can also be arranged if you make a partition with a dressing room from heat-resistant glass blocks or mount a glass door.

The safest lighting option today is optical fiber, because it does not conduct electricity, and there is enough light. It is successfully used in Turkish baths.

Additional equipment that you want to place in the bath should be taken into account in the wiring diagram:

  1. Air conditioning
  2. Washing machine
  3. Electric kettle

Alternative power supply system, in case of power outages.

Also, for bath lighting, especially in a steam room or shower, it is recommended to use a voltage of 12-36 V, but in this case you will need a step-down transformer.

Types of electrical wiring in the bath - advantages and disadvantages

Installation of electrical wiring in the bath can be done in two ways:

  • open (overhead)
  • hidden (internal)

Open mounting electrical networks includes wiring for:

  • steel boxes (cable channels),
  • corrugated sleeve
  • trays
  • electrical skirting boards.

Reference:

The box is a construction of a square, triangular or rectangular, with a flat base, inside which all the cables in the room are laid. Open type boxes are called trays. Cable channels are made of special non-flammable materials.

Wiring is laid over:

  • ceilings
  • For this purpose are used:
  • strings
  • cables
  • insulators
  • videos

Important!

No connections or damage to the wires are allowed inside the pipelines. Cable channels can be filled with wires by no more than 60% in order to exclude overheating of communications and, accordingly, the danger of a short circuit.

Advantages

  • Installation is cheaper, since wall chasing is excluded
  • Repair work is simplified
  • disadvantages
  • Unaesthetic appearance
  • Wiring in cable ducts wooden structures can lead over time to deformation of plastic boxes.
  • It is difficult to lay a corrugated pipe perfectly evenly and it accumulates dust.

Hidden installation of electrical wiring provides for the laying of cables in closed boxes inside the structure of the building:

  1. in the wall
  2. in the ceiling
  3. in floors
  4. in grooves under plaster
  5. under the removable floor
  6. inside building structures.

In this case, close attention should be paid to the joints of the cables, in particular, their insulation. And if the structure of the building is made of wood, then be sure to put insulating material on top and bottom of the wire. PUE recommends a hidden version of the wiring in the baths.

Advantages of hidden wiring:

  • Fireproof and protected from moisture, since the access of air and moisture to the wires is significantly limited
  • Safe in terms of accidental contact with current-carrying conductors
  • The service life is higher than that of open wiring, since any mechanical damage
  • Aesthetic appearance

Disadvantages of concealed wiring:

  • Limited access to wiring, in case of troubleshooting
  • Labor-intensive installation

Types of wires for a bath

For overhead wiring, the most reliable wire today is SIP (self-supporting insulated wire), which is connected at one end to the highway, and at the other - to the input structure on the wall of the structure.

Reference

SIP is a phase, neutral and additional wires twisted into a bundle, does not need a carrier cable and is mounted to supports or to the wall of buildings using linear fittings (anchor clamps). The minimum cross section is 16 sq. mm. A wire with such a cross section passes current up to 63 A. For a bath, according to the requirements of the PUE, the wire cross section should not be less than 16 sq. mm, and there is no need for a larger cross section for a bath.

Advantages of SIP

  • The wires do not overlap, which means that a short circuit is excluded
  • AT winter period ice crust does not form on the wires
  • It has a special weatherproof coating that is resistant to atmospheric temperature changes. Such a wire is important to use on the coast of the sea.
  • Wires are not recyclable, therefore theft is excluded
  • Simplicity installation work due to the presence of special clamps
  • High mechanical strength, which eliminates line breaks
  • SIP can be laid on the facades of buildings
  • SIP can be laid in joint suspension with communication lines and high and low voltage wires, which can save on supports.
  • Their service life is more than 25 years

Disadvantages of SIP

Compared to bare wires, which can be found everywhere in the private sector, the cost of laying SIPs increases by about 20%. The cost of SIP with a cross section of 16 sq. mm ranges from 20-30 rubles per linear meter.

  • Lack of flexibility, they are difficult to enter into the circuit breaker.
  • For underground wiring, an armored power cable with copper conductors of the brand - VBbShv and VBbShvng is used.
  • Advantages of VBbShv
  • The VBbShv brand cable is very reliable due to the use of a steel braid in it.
  • The cable is not threatened by earth shrinkage
  • Cable is not afraid of rodents

Disadvantages of VBbShv

High cost, which fluctuates within 200 rubles / r.m.

For interior spaces(but not in the steam room) wires are used - type NYM, VVG, for lighting devices you can use the VVGng-LS cable with a section of 3x1.5, it is recommended to use VVGng-LS with a section of 3x2.5

For the steam room and electric oven, a special cable with the most heat-resistant insulation that can withstand temperatures up to 180 degrees and high power consumption, with copper conductors (aluminum wires cannot be used in the bath) should be used. These include wires of the PMTK, PRKA, RKGM, PGRK or PRKS brands. To the mounting box, which should be located outside the high temperature area, you lead one of the proposed heat-resistant wires, and you can run a VVG or NYM type cable from the box to the shield. AT wooden bath it is possible to lay wire of APRN, PRN, AVRN, PRHD brands with double insulation. If there is single-phase electrical wiring in a wooden bath, then the supply cable must have three cores. You can also use wire brands APV, PV, APPV and PPV

Advantages

  • Wires of VVG and NYM brands are designed for maximum temperature up to 70 degrees.
  • They don't support combustion.
  • Resistant to oxidative processes

Important!

For a bath, all cables must have:

  • double insulated, rubber-in-rubber insulation is ideal
  • be copper if intended for internal wiring
  • protected by waterproof shells
  • be three-core so that it is possible to ground appliances and sockets.

Electrical wiring inside the bath

Wiring is carried out at the bottom of the wall frame. The input of the wire into the sockets, the switches must be made from below or from the side, making a V-shaped knee (loop) so that condensate does not penetrate inside. Insert the cable into the steam room through the wall or ceiling in the place where the lamp will be located. The free ends of the wires must be of sufficient length for the free connection of fixtures.

The metal parts of electrical appliances installed in steam rooms and washing rooms must be grounded. To do this, use a three-core cable, two wires from which are connected to phase and zero, and the third wire is grounded, connecting it to the fittings and leading to a house shield or to an introductory box on the site and connecting it to neutral. All sockets must be protected by differential circuit breakers, and indoors high humidity an RCD with a trip current of 10 mA must be installed. In the rest room, all wires, without connections and any splices, are led to the shield.

The shield is proposed to be placed either in the rest room or in the vestibule. All wires coming from sockets, switches, introductory machines are connected on the shield.

Wiring device outside

There are two ways to bring electricity to the bath:

  • air
  • underground

Air mounting method


The air installation method provides for laying the wire from the switchboard to the bath building through the air and has certain height requirements. Above the carriageway, the wire must be located at a height of at least 6 meters above ground level. Above the pedestrian part - not less than 3.5 meters. The cable must enter the structure of the bath at a height of at least 2.75 meters from the ground.

If the air distance from the highway to the house is more than 25 meters, it is necessary to install an additional support.

What power is needed, what devices must be taken into account

Before talking about power and current, let's give some introductory definitions and explanations of what a single-phase, three-phase connection, zero and ground are.

Single phase connection

Any electrical circuit consists of two wires: the wire through which the current flows is called the phase wire, or the wire through which the current returns is called zero. On one wire, the current goes to the consumer of electricity (for example, to a light bulb), and on the other it returns back. This is how a single-phase network works.

Single-phase circuit diagram

Three-phase connection

A three-phase circuit includes three phase wires and one zero.

With a three-phase network, alternating electric current flows through three wires and returns one at a time.

Three-phase circuit diagram:

Energy sales organizations supply alternating electric current precisely through three-phase networks - this is how current enters our homes. Sometimes a three-phase network can be brought directly into the house. In most houses, a single-phase network is supplied. Finding out which network is connected to your home is very simple:

when there are 2 or 3 wires in the incoming cable, then the network is single-phase

when there are 2 or 5 wires in the incoming cable - three-phase.

grounding

In a single-phase network, this is the third wire that does not carry any load, but performs a safety function. The purpose of this wire is that in the event of a short circuit, the excess current through this wire will go into the ground.

Grounding scheme:

It is just necessary to calculate the power of electrical appliances in order to evenly distribute their load across the phases. It should also be taken into account that modern electrical devices there are quite a lot of power that can create too high a load for a single-phase network. Therefore, depending on how much and what power of electrical appliances you are going to connect in your area, you can choose to connect a single-phase or three-phase network.

Advantages of a three-phase network:

Ability to use more power. A single-phase network is designed for a total power of approximately 10 kW, and a three-phase network is designed for up to 30 kW and more. Example: if 1 phase enters your house from a power line, then with an incoming wire cross section of 16 sq. Mm. the total power of all devices can be no more than 14 kW, and if there are 3 phases, then 42 kW.

It is easy to connect electrical appliances with three-phase power, such as electric stoves.

Disadvantages of a three-phase network:

You will need a stabilizer, since with an uneven load on one of the phases, the remaining phases will not work correctly.

It is necessary to integrate special equipment into the shield, designed specifically for a three-phase network.

We calculate the power

All electrical appliances (light bulbs, electric furnaces, etc.) have numbers:

first digit - voltage (options: 12, 24, 220, 380 V)

the second digit is the power of the appliance (written kW or k

To calculate the required wire cross-section, use the suggested example from the table:

Example for single-phase 220 V connection:

two-wire wire - phase conductor and neutral, or

three-core wire - phase conductor, neutral, protective conductor

Total power of devices, kW

Current, A (Power (W) / Voltage (V))

Approximate ratio of wire cross section and current strength

Example

Steam room: 1 lamp - 60 W

Shower: 1 lamp - 60 W

Dressing room: 1 lamp - 100 W

Recreation room: 1 lamp - 100 W

Refrigerator: 200 W

Boiler: 2000 W

Pump: 600W

Total: 3120 W

At a voltage of 220 V: Current (A) \u003d 3120 / 220 \u003d 14.18 A

16A -1.5 sq.mm

25A -2.5 sq.mm

32A -4.0 sq.mm

40A - 6.0 sq.mm

In our example, according to the calculation, a wire with a cross section of 1.5 sq. Mm is sufficient.

If you do not want to go into formulas and reference books, then you can calculate the required wire cross section in a more simplified way:

Taking into account the power reserve, for every 2 kW of power corresponds to 1 sq. mm of the wire section. However, as the cross section increases, this ratio is not exact.

In our example, for 3.1 kW, wiring with a cross section will correspond. However, when choosing a wire, you should always make calculations with a margin of about 20-25%. In our example:

Power with a margin: 3120 x 1.25 = 3900 W

Current: 3900 W / 220 = 17.73 A

Wire section: 2.5 sq. mm.

Wiring and lighting for a bath video

The choice of cable for laying in a bath or sauna should be approached with the utmost responsibility, since not only the reliability of the electrical wiring, but also the safety of people depends on how correctly this choice is made. The peculiarity of the bath rooms is that the temperature in them can reach up to +170°C, and the humidity can reach 90%. For this reason, the cable must also be suitable, satisfying these difficult conditions.

Of course, both a bath and a sauna usually include more than one room, in each of which temperature regime your own, therefore the cable is required for different rooms is different. For laying the lighting network in the dressing room are quite suitable. But what about the steam room if you need to connect both lighting and an electric stove there? Here you need a special heat-resistant cable, and there may be several options.

Meanwhile, we must not forget that in wooden rooms, even an ordinary cable for a dressing room must be protected by a plastic box, despite the fact that the room is almost dry. Domestic cables of the brands PPGng-HF 3 * 1.5, VVGng-LS 3 * 1.5 or NYM 3 * 1.5 are suitable for the first group of premises - for wiring lighting in dressing rooms. For sockets in dressing rooms, it is better that the cross section of the wires be at least 2.5 sq. mm.

The second group of rooms is directly a bath or sauna. This is where a special heat-resistant cable is needed. Of the domestic options, suitable: three RKGM 1 * 2.5, PVKV 1 * 2.5, PRKA 1 * 2.5 or PAL 1 * 2.5, or three-core PMTK 3 * 2.5, PNBS 3 * 2.5, or PRKS 3 * 2.5. Wiring, plus everything, must have a protective earth.

So, as heat-resistant cables for baths and saunas, they most often use:

    three RKGM 1*2.5;

    three PVKV 1 * 2.5;

    three PRCA 1*2.5;

    three PAL 1*2.5;

"R", "K" - silicone rubber insulation, "G", "M" - bare copper core. The main purpose of this wire is the manufacture of terminals for electrical equipment that operates in the absence of the harmful effects of aggressive media and oils.

Characteristic of this type of wire is that it does not sustain combustion, is resistant to mould, is resistant to high and low atmospheric pressure, as well as to mechanical shock and vibration. Ozone and solar radiation are also unable to harm this wire.

Silicone rubber insulation and fiberglass braid make this cable safe to use in temperatures up to +180°C and 100% humidity.

The current-carrying core of the cable is a copper stranded wire. The fiberglass braid of the cable is impregnated with a heat-resistant silicone varnish. It is thanks to these advantages that the RKGM cable is often used as a heat-resistant cable for saunas and baths.

"P" - wire, "V" - for the conclusions of electrical machines, "KV" - insulation from two-layer silicone rubber. Designed for the manufacture of winding leads of class "H", for equipment operating in the absence of exposure to oils and aggressive environments. Withstands temperatures up to +180°C, can work in conditions of high humidity.

A characteristic feature of the wire is the flexibility of the conductive core, which can withstand at least 20 bending cycles. High and low Atmosphere pressure wire safe. The wire is resistant to vibrations and mechanical shocks. The insulation is resistant to mold and impregnating compounds, does not spread combustion. These qualities make it possible to use this wire for laying wiring in baths and saunas.

"P" - a wire with a copper conductive core, "RK" - insulated from organosilicon rubber impregnated with an anti-rotten compound, "A" - increased hardness. This cable is usually used for the installation of electric heaters, electric motors, and also often for the installation of electrical wiring in drying chambers, saunas and baths. The wire insulation does not contain halogens, does not spread combustion, is resistant to mold, ozone, solar radiation, and also has low smoke and gas emission. The insulation withstands temperatures up to +180°C and humidity up to 98%. The wire easily takes out bends during installation.

"P" - wire, "A" - in asbestos insulation, "L" - varnished. This furnace wire is able to withstand even +300°C for 3000 hours, however, when heated from +250°C, the insulation becomes toxic, and this must be taken into account. For a fixed installation of electrical wiring in a bath or sauna, this wire is perfect.

The wire is mechanically strong, resistant to abrasion, resistant to gasoline, silicone varnish, technical toluene. In the temperature range from -50°C to +200°C, it is completely environmentally friendly. Over the conductive core - a single-layer asbestos roving impregnated with organosilicon varnish, then a film of fluoroplast-4, over the fluoroplast - enameled asbestos yarn. Able to withstand 20 bending cycles.

"P" - wire, "M" - mounting, "T" - heat-resistant, "K" - in silicone rubber insulation. Designed for installation of equipment and electrical devices, including special application, such as heating technology, electric stoves, electric furnaces. Let's apply to laying of conducting in baths and saunas.

Stranded copper conductor in silicone insulation is UV-resistant, suitable for installation in rooms with 100% humidity, and reliably operates in the temperature range from -60°C to +200°C. The insulation of the wire does not spread combustion when laid alone.

Wire for fixed laying in baths and saunas. Specialized wire for electrical wiring of electric heaters, electric furnaces and other equipment operating in rooms with elevated temperatures.

The copper conductors of the wire are insulated with silicone rubber, and the cable sheath is with fluorosiloxane rubber. Fluorosiloxane rubber allows the cable to easily withstand temperatures up to +150°C.

If for ordinary wires in a simple rubber insulation, connection directly to the heater is unacceptable, then the heat-resistant organosilicon insulation of the PNBS wire allows this.

Silicone rubber insulated wire for use in baths and saunas. The cable sheath is also made of silicone rubber. The wire is quite flexible, and does not deform from changes in temperature and humidity. The casing is oil and petrol resistant.

Temperatures up to +250°C are safely tolerated by the cable and do not become toxic when overheated. The multi-core version allows transmitting power up to 30 kW over one cable of the PRKS.

Any owner with private house or good country cottage area, dreams of a bath, at least small, but cozy enough. When building and equipping this structure, it should be borne in mind that it is quite unsafe and the right wire will protect against fire in the room.

Zones in the bath

The most unsafe place in the bath is the steam room. A conventional or electric furnace is placed in this room and the temperature can reach 130 degrees Celsius, and at the same time, the humidity also has a high rate of about 90%. Considering these factors, anyone can conclude that the corrosive environment will easily damage the outer shells of the wires.

The first step is to understand the zones into which the steam room in the bath or sauna is divided according to GOST R 50571.12-96. According to this document, the premises with the greatest risk of electrical wiring fire are divided into four zones, they are marked in the figure.


  • the first zone is intended only for the installation of furnaces of any type;
  • the second zone is characterized by the fact that it has no special requirements for moisture or heat resistance;
  • the third zone increases its demands, and here electrical appliances should work well at temperatures above 120 C, and the wiring should cope with heating more than 170 C;
  • if an electric oven is installed in the steam room, then only the equipment for controlling this oven should be placed in the fourth zone or automatic sensors shutdown. There should not be any other electrical appliances in this place.

The last two zones are the most dangerous, so here you need to select the most insulated and heat-resistant wires. Domestic manufacturers offer the following options:

  1. wire RKGM, PRKA, PRKS, PVKV, which has many copper wires inside, it is quite flexible and can withstand temperatures up to 180 degrees;
  2. PMTK wire can consist of one or many wires, it also bends well, but at the same time it can withstand up to 200 degrees.

Other rooms in the bath are not so dangerous and the VVGng-LS wire is suitable here. Do not forget the cross section of the cable, this value for the wires of the steam room should be at least 2.5 square meters. mm, and for other rooms - 1.5 sq. mm.

Heat-resistant cable for saunas and baths.

Let's take a closer look at the markings of heat-resistant wires and go through the characteristics, see how reliable and practical they are.

Let's start with the RKGM

This wire is covered with silicone rubber (RK) on top, which acts as an insulator, inside there are bare copper wires (GM). It also has a fiberglass winding, which is located between the insulation and the wiring itself. This winding allows the RKGM brand cable not to react to external stimuli such as high temperature (up to 180) and humidity (up to 100%).


In the event of a fire, the wire does not burn, mold is also not afraid of it. Due to its strong insulation, it withstands shock and mechanical damage well. Given all of the above, we can say with confidence that the RKGM wire is perfect for any area in the steam room of a bath or sauna.

PRCA

This brand also has a coating of silicone rubber (RK), has an increased hardness (A). The letter P means "wire". Works great when the temperature rises to 1700C-1800C, and enough high humidity up to 90%.


It burns poorly, but emits little smoke when ignited, does not break if multiple bends occur during installation, and is not affected by mold. Well suited for baths and saunas.

Next wire PRKS

This cable inside can consist of several cores, from two to five. Their winding different colors, but one must be blue or blue color. A vein of this shade always goes to zero. If there are more than two cores in the wire, then there is grounding, which is indicated in green.


This wire (P) is insulated with silicone rubber (SR) for connection (C). Can withstand temperatures up to 2500C. With significant overheating, it does not emit toxic substances, and also does not lend itself to deformation in conditions of high humidity. This cable for the bath fits perfectly.

Next, let's get acquainted with the PVKV wire


The wire (P) is designed for winding leads (B), has two-layer silicone rubber insulation (KV). Tolerates heat well environment even up to 200 degrees, and an increase in humidity up to 90%. Mold and mechanical influences do not affect the performance of this cable.

PMTK

The mounting wire (PM), has high heat-resistant (T) characteristics, like all heat-resistant ones, it is insulated with silicone rubber.


It can be both single-core and multi-core. In the multi-core version, each core is marked with a separate color, as with the wire of the PRKS brand. Resistant to high temperatures, but does not tolerate a strong drop to -250C. No maximum humidity level negative impact to the wire.

The last cable that is suitable for wiring in a VVGNG-LS bath

This is a copper cable that consists of several cores. The external insulation, as well as the individual insulation of each core, is made of PVC rubber. It does not burn well, but when ignited, it emits very little smoke, which makes it possible to leave the premises as soon as possible in a life-threatening situation. It works well in conditions with high humidity, but it does not withstand heating above 50. It cannot be used in the steam room, but it is perfect for other rooms in the bath.


After reviewing some representatives of heat-resistant wires, we can draw some conclusions. All of them have an organosilicon winding, which helps the copper wire to withstand elevated ambient temperatures, high levels of humidity, and, like RKGM, not succumb to mold.

Bath is a symbol of hygiene and health. And although every house is equipped with a bathroom, there are no fewer lovers of bath procedures. Building and equipping a bath is a creative and responsible process. Knowledge of the features of lighting installation in conditions of high humidity and temperature is required. Therefore, it is necessary to start self-wiring electricity in the bath after carefully reading the rules and regulations of fire safety.

Lighting device in the bath, electrical wiring diagram

Electricity and moisture are incompatible concepts. In order for the lighting to work properly, it is necessary to protect it as much as possible from fumes. Water is an excellent conductor electric current therefore it is important to take care of the proper insulation of electrical wiring.

The standard wiring diagram in the bath includes:

It must be remembered that under adverse conditions in the humid environment of the bath and an increase in the likelihood of a short circuit, the operation of electrical appliances is only allowed if there is a grounding system.

If instead wood stove an electric steam generator is used in the steam room, an additional power line is laid to supply voltage to the device. The calculation of the conductor cross-sectional area is carried out in accordance with technical specifications specified in the steam generator manual.

When connecting the steam generator, follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

The bath is connected from the switchboard from the house and does not have its own meter. Cable laying is carried out in two ways - by air or underground. The overhead line requires less cost and time. But underground wiring differs in reliability and independence from the atmospheric phenomena.

Knowledge internal device electrification system helps to understand the importance of correctly connecting all wires

It is important to make an accurate calculation of the parameters of the introductory conductor. It must withstand the total power of consumers of all bath equipment without heating. Choose a cable with a power reserve of 25–30% so that it can cope when new consumers of electricity (kettle, TV, computer) are added to the bath or the lighting changes.

To date, the use of aluminum conductors in housing and household services is prohibited. Regulatory documents prescribe the laying of electrical wiring lines only using copper cables. Aluminum wires are used only for laying overhead lines, since the specific gravity copper wire a lot more.

Drawings and calculations of wiring in the bath

We start with the image of the plan of all bath rooms and the location of sockets, switches, lighting lamps in them. The switchboard is traditionally placed near front door. From it, cables carry current through the rooms. Make drawings on a single scale in order to correctly orient yourself along the length and cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cables.

A preliminary sketch of the location of fixtures and sockets in the bath is drawn by hand so as not to miss any of the intended power points

With a home network equipped with grounding, no additional work is required. But if a two-core cable with phase and zero passes into the bath, it is necessary to install a ground bus. It will take a little time and money, but it will guarantee the fire and personal safety of users.

Control measurements of ground resistance are made by an employee of a specialized organization putting the object into operation

A metal pin (or 2–3 pieces) is driven into the ground to a depth of a meter and a half, and with the help of an iron strip, the “ground” is brought to the switchboard. For a private bath small size this grounding is sufficient. If we are talking about a large public building, then the calculation and installation of grounding are carried out by specialized organizations that have a specialized license.

Grounding in the bath are subject to:

  • lighting;
  • sockets located in close proximity to water taps;
  • electric boilers, boilers;
  • heated towel rails;
  • bathtubs (cast iron, steel and even acrylic);
  • wash basins;
  • shower cubicles.

Grounding is a necessary element of the security system in case of sudden disturbances in the electrical network

When wiring, use only three-core connecting cables, as well as sockets and switches rated for earthing.

When developing a wiring diagram for bath electrical equipment, follow the main rules:


In the bath, the wiring is done external or hidden. Hidden is mounted at the construction stage: before the inner lining of the bath is installed. Wires must be laid in a metal sleeve. When fixing the corrugation to the walls of the room, keep in mind that condensation forms inside the sleeve. Therefore, observe the installation angle by making holes in certain places in advance for the release of water and steam.

External wiring is easier to install: the cables are protected by a corrugated tube of increased heat resistance.

How to choose the right materials

List of basic materials needed for wiring in the bath:

  • cables and conductors;
  • lighting;
  • sockets, switches, junction boxes;
  • connecting materials;
  • circuit breakers, protective current shutdown device (RCD).

Let's consider each item in detail:

  1. Cables and conductors are used to transfer current from the switchboard to the consumer. For the bath use wires with double insulation, resistant to high temperatures. The calculation of the conductor cross section will help to make special tables that display the loads recommended by the manufacturer on the conductor. In practice, wires with a cross section of 1.5 mm 2 are used for lighting and 2.5 mm 2 for sockets. Insulation is selected according to the level of protection in a particular room. The input cable is selected based on the total power of all consumers inside the bath with a margin of 30-50%.
  2. For a bath, it is advised to use ordinary incandescent lamps. low power. Energy-saving lamps are suitable for lighting all rooms, except for the steam room, since each such lamp has “smart” electronics in the base, which is not designed for operation at high humidity and temperature.

    Optical fiber is able to function at high temperature in the steam room

    Often use LED strips to decorate the steam room. Their price is higher, but at the same time, both the level of comfort and safety increase (LEDs work from a “safe” voltage of 12 or 36 volts).

    Lighting with LED strips creates coziness and makes your stay in the steam room comfortable

    The most expensive option is fiber optic lamps. The manufacturer declared a temperature of 200 ° C, at which the lamps work without damage. The only drawback is the high price.

  3. Junction boxes, switches and sockets are subject to increased requirements for moisture resistance. The degree of security is displayed by the IP index and marked on the body of the product. Switches and sockets with an IP index from 35 to 65 are suitable for a bath (the higher the value, the more expensive the product).
  4. Connecting materials include pads, terminal blocks, twists. They communicate between conductors in junction boxes and are an alternative to soldering wires. The quality of soldered cores is higher, but terminal blocks are more convenient for installation: the speed of connecting cables increases. Experts recommend observing the color and letter marking of conductive wires, connecting wires of the same color and purpose. Blue - zero, brown - phase, yellow-green - earth. Correct connection useful during repairs, when all the constituent elements of the chain are immediately identified by colors.
  5. Protective equipment is mounted on the switchboard. The main task is to correctly select the nominal characteristics of the device. The calculation is made according to the formula P \u003d I x U, where P is the power, I is the current, U is the mains voltage. To find out the nominal value of the operation current of the machine, it is necessary to divide the total power of all devices by the voltage, which is 230 V (I \u003d P / U). This will be the desired nominal value of the circuit breaker. When selecting an RCD, attention is paid to the indicator of differential currents, which in this case is the smaller the better.

    For convenience, the operating parameters of the RCD are marked as a pictogram on the device case

Table: cable section selection

Cable section
laid open
single phase
switching on 220V
Three-phase
switching on 3×220V/380
Cable section
laid in a pipe
ALCUkWContinuous current A when the cable is heated up to 60 ° CkWCUAL
0,5 10 2,2
0,75 13 2,8
1 15 3,3 12 8 1,5 2,5
2,5 1,5 20 4,4 18 12 2,5 4
4 2,5 30 6,6 27 18 4 6
6 4 40 8,8 35 23 6 10
10 6 50 11 45 30 10 16
16 10 75 16,5 65 43 16 25
25 16 100 22 85 56 25 35
35 25 125 105 69 35 50
50 35 150 125 83 50 70
70 50 180 150 100 70 95

This table, deciphering the abbreviations of domestic cable manufacturers, will help you choose desired view isolation.

Table: moisture protection levels in the international IP index

LevelDefence fromDescription
0 - no protection
1 vertical dropsvertically dripping water must not interfere with the operation of the device
2 vertical drops at an angle up to 15 overtically dripping water should not interfere with the operation of the device if it is deflected from the working position by an angle of up to 15 °
3 falling sprayrain protection - spray falls vertically or at an angle up to 60° to the vertical
4 sprayprotection against splashes falling in any direction
5 jetsprotection against water jets from any direction
6 sea ​​wavesprotection against sea waves or strong water jets - water entering the housing must not interfere with the operation of the device
7 short-term immersion to a depth of 1 mduring short-term immersion, water does not enter in quantities that disrupt the operation of the device - continuous operation in immersed mode is not expected
8 prolonged immersion to a depth of more than 1 mCompletely waterproof - the device can work in immersed mode

Properly selected electrical accessories will protect the wiring in the bath from a short circuit.

Table: cable marking

ConductorAlphanumeric identificationColor identification
ColourColor code according to GOST 28763
AC circuit
phase conductor of a single-phase circuitLbrownBN
phase conductor 1 of a three-phase circuitL1
phase conductor 2 of a three-phase circuitL2blackBK
phase conductor 3 of a three-phase circuitL3greyGY
grounded phase conductor of a single-phase circuitLEblueBU
grounded phase conductors of a three-phase circuitLE1, LE2, LE3
neutral conductorN
Protective conductors and conductors combining the functions of protective conductors
protective conductorPEgreen-yellowGNYE
PEN conductorPENblueBU
potential equalization protective conductorPBgreen-yellowGNYE

Letter and color marking of power cables will allow you to navigate the wiring during installation.

Video: step-by-step wiring in the bath and connecting wires

Wiring tools

If the wiring in the bath is planned to be external, then no special tools will be needed. Need:

  • electrical screwdrivers;
  • pliers;
  • insulating tape;
  • drill equipped with nozzles for screws;
  • construction tape measure with hydraulic level or laser level.

Using a laser level, marking is carried out for the installation of electrical appliances

If hidden wiring is mounted, then prepare:

  • puncher and a set of crowns for drilling mounting holes for socket boxes;
  • spatulas;
  • putty accessories - buckets, sanding block, mixer, alabaster, etc.

A perforator is used to install socket boxes in a stone wall

Step-by-step instructions: do-it-yourself electrical wiring

The work package is divided into three parts. The order is not critical, but experienced installers always start cabling with junction boxes and finish with lighting fixtures.

Installation of lighting fixtures

Depending on the lighting project, the installation of devices is done in several stages.

  1. Conductors are laid from the intended lighting points to the switchboard: the exact location of all installation points for lamps, switches and sockets is determined (according to the drawing). Cabling is done up to finishing premises. The place of the future lamp is calculated and a three-core conductor is fixed in the immediate vicinity of it, enclosed in a corrugated sleeve so that later the cable length is enough to connect the lamp. The cable is fastened to the crate or frame beam with special clips. It is recommended to follow the rule when laying wires: run them 15–20 cm from the wall line. In the future, such a system will come in handy during repairs - it will not be necessary to open the entire ceiling to find the wire attachment points. It is also advisable to draw up a diagram of the already laid cables.

    Wires are laid along the ceiling and walls before the installation of the finish

  2. Before starting finishing work - lining the ceiling and walls - it is necessary to test the operability of the wiring using a tester and a lamp fixed on a small piece of wire. If everything works properly, the ends of the cables are carefully insulated with dielectric tape, and the machines on the switchboard are manually switched to the off position.

    Tester - a device for determining the parameters of electrical wiring, helps to determine the break in the electrical circuit when laying wires

  3. After sheathing the surface of the ceiling and walls, holes are cut out in them for the installation of lighting devices. It is important to maintain maximum accuracy and compliance with the drawings. An incorrectly cut hole in a wooden covering can no longer be corrected and moved to another place.

    An example of installing a socket in a bath using a metal socket: the wires are inserted into the wall, insulated and closed with a socket

  4. Overhead fixtures are mounted in two stages: the mounting plate is attached, and the wires are connected in the terminal blocks, observing the color coding. Next, the outer cover of the illuminator is fixed with screws.
  5. Mortise lamps are installed in a loop of wire, prepared in advance before sheathing the plane. The cable is cut, and the resulting ends are inserted into the terminals of the lamp holder.
  6. A separate part of the work is the installation of lighting fixtures powered by 12 V. The step-down transformer is placed behind the facing panel and connected to the power cable. Only after that the lighting lamp is connected to the network.

    Scheme of correct installation led strip in the bath will help to eliminate the error of connecting wires

  7. Before screwing in the lamps, the network is checked for operability and the presence of voltage. After that, the lamp is finally fixed.

It is important to remember that all electrical work is carried out only when the machine is turned off. Voltage supply is allowed only for short periods of time for testing. During the connection of the wires, it is necessary to hang a sign on the shield with the inscription “Do not turn on. Installation work is underway.

Video: how to install fiber optic lighting in a steam room

Installation of switches and sockets

Sockets in the bath are mounted at a height of at least 0.5 m from the floor level and not closer than 60 cm from water sources.

If the wiring is hidden, socket boxes are installed in the designated places. During fixation, power cables are inserted into it, laid in advance in strobes. In brick, block and concrete walls the seat for the socket is drilled with a puncher. Sequencing:

  1. A hole of the required size is cut in the wall, wires are brought out through the holes in the socket housing.
  2. The socket box is fixed with alabaster or plaster. Drying time - up to 30 minutes.
  3. The ends of the current-carrying cores are cleaned by 0.5–1.5 cm, insulated and twisted into a bundle.
  4. After finishing the facing work, the device block is inserted into the socket and the wires are connected.
  5. The cover of the socket (or switch) is mounted.

The ceramic block in the socket is fixed in two ways:

  • with help sliding mechanism with spacer legs;
  • with the help of screws inserted into the grooves of the socket box and scrolling along with the block.

If the wiring in the dressing room is external, installation is carried out without installing socket boxes. In the locations of switches and sockets, dielectric gaskets are pre-installed. Cables are packed in cable channels or corrugated pipes-sleeves.

When installing switches, it is important to arrange the control keys in accordance with accepted standards. Turning off the light should be done by pressing the bottom of the button.

Installation of junction boxes

Power wires are connected in junction (junction) boxes. They are installed at the top of the wall. The cover fastens on plastic latches or a carving. When assembling, pay attention to the rubber o-ring: it seals the interior, protecting it from moisture and dust.

The supply of electricity to lighting fixtures depends on the correctness and reliability of the connection of wires in the junction box.

With hidden wiring, a recess in the wall is made of such a size that only the cover of the junction box remains on the surface. When outdoor - the body is attached to the wall with dowel-nails or screws. Corrugated sleeves are immersed inside the box by at least 2.5–3 cm through special holes that must be freed from plastic partitions.

The installation procedure for the junction box is as follows:

  1. All the necessary wires are brought inside the box.
  2. Using terminal blocks, blocks or caps, they are connected. Spare lines and bare wires are insulated.
  3. Everything neatly fits inside the box: it is important that the contacts remain securely connected.
  4. The lid closes all the way to rubber compressor had no free play and did not let air through.

Video: bath wiring technology - hidden wiring and sockets

People have different ideas about safety, so in each specific situation it is useful to refer to generally recognized sources, which are the "Rules for the Installation of Electrical Appliances" (PUE, chapter 7.1), "Code of Regulations and Rules" (SNiP 2.08.01-89) and "State Standard" (GOST 50571. 11-96). The installation standards of electrification set forth in them will save the bath from a fire, and its owners from burns, injuries and other troubles.

Electrical work in the bath, sauna due to high temperature and humidity differ in a number of features. Knowing and observing them when working with an electrician is vital. How to prepare a project, choose tools and materials, run a cable and make internal wiring with your own hands? You will find answers to these questions below.

Key Wiring Safety Requirements

The electrification of such premises as saunas or baths, traditionally loved in our country, is subject to increased safety requirements. This is due to the higher humidity of the air (and, as a result, the formation of condensate), the high temperature in the steam room and the washing department. You need to take into account the material of the walls. Most often it is a tree, a material with an increased fire hazard.

Key requirements for the wiring device:

  1. The input shield must be located in the place most protected from temperature changes (dressing room, vestibule, rest room), have a separate RCD or difavtomat (operation at leakage current< 0,05 Ам), соответствовать требованиям IP 44.
  2. For a sauna or a bath, a high-quality separate grounding (PE-conductor) is required, the capacity of which will be sufficient for all current consumers. If there is an electric boiler, then it must be grounded separately.
  3. One-piece lines from the connection point to the shield. It is advisable to exclude any junction boxes.
  4. Best of all, if the equipment has a degree of protection from IP55 and higher, the cables have 3 cores with mandatory grounding and insulation that can withstand temperatures from -40 to +130 ° C.
  5. The cable is laid using metal hoses or refractory corrugations. Only non-combustible or self-extinguishing materials are used for insulation.
  6. It is forbidden to use metal screws, self-tapping screws, etc. to fasten wiring elements. Only the use of dielectrics is allowed.

The rules for lighting baths \ steam rooms \ saunas are set out in detail in the PUE (rules for electrical installations). This is a basic regulatory document that sets out the requirements for a variety of electrical equipment.

Do not be too lazy to carefully study the requirements of the provisions of the EIC before starting work.

Preparatory stage: we draw up a project, calculate the cross section of cables

Preparation of a circuit diagram of electrical wiring is the task of an experienced specialist, knowing the nuances designing electrical circuits in rooms with specific conditions. Any building has individual characteristics, and the wiring device in a particular case is determined by the number of consumers and their total power.

Starting work on the project, you need to decide which cable to bring to the structure, with one or three phases. This determines the configuration of the finished circuit. But the general approaches to drafting the project remain.

A possible wiring diagram for a bath or sauna

When the scheme of future wiring for a sauna or bath is prepared, it's time to take on the calculations. You will need to calculate the cross section of the wires, determine the technical characteristics of the RCD, automatic machines and other elements of the electrical circuit. In the case when the circuit assumes the presence of electrical appliances of high power, it is advisable to use a three-phase connection. It is designed for a significantly higher load (up to 42 kW) than a single-phase line connected by a CIP cable (up to 14 kW).

Let's start with the main thing - calculating the cross section of the wire connected to the electrical panel (electricity will be supplied to the building through it). First, you need to calculate the total power consumption of the devices installed in the bath, according to the circuit diagram. The value of power consumption is indicated on each electrical appliance or in the instructions for it. Having calculated the total power of electricity consumers, we get the approximate load on the cable going to the bath from the shield. We divide the resulting number by the network voltage indicator and get the current strength (measured in amperes, A). The required cable section depends on this parameter, which is selected as follows:

  • 16 A = 1.5 mm2;
  • 25 A = 2.5 mm2;
  • 32 A = 4 mm2;
  • 40 A = 6 mm2.

The parameters are suitable for all types of wires with copper conductors.

To the calculated cross-sectional area, you need to add a margin of 25% - 30%. And also in the calculations, the total power of the devices is also preferable to take a little more, taking into account devices that are rarely included in the network.

Choosing wires and electrical appliances for interior work

When choosing wires for internal wiring, keep in mind that their cores must be exclusively copper. Do not use wires with aluminum cores.

The size of the cross-section of cables for branches of internal wiring (to lamps, switches, electrical outlets, etc.) is calculated similarly to the input cable.

The structure of the heat-resistant cable

When choosing circuit breakers, it is also necessary to determine their power ratings. Basic rule: the main machine should have the most power, and for devices that turn off individual wiring branches, it is significantly less.

To calculate the threshold value of the operation of the machine, they use the same formula as for calculating the cross section of the wires - it is necessary to determine the current strength in the circuit or in its separate section (for machines that turn off part of the devices). For example, if the total current strength in the circuit is 20A, then the operating threshold of the main machine needs at least 25 A, and even better - 32 A. The switching threshold for individual branches is calculated based on the current strength that the least powerful device consumes.

A mandatory wiring element in a sauna or bath room, according to the PUE, is a residual current device or RCD. According to the regulations, you need to choose an RCD that operates at a current strength of 10–16 mA. In reality, with such parameters, the device often works falsely, so most people choose an RCD with a response threshold of 25–30 mA. But for maximum safety, we recommend that you adhere to the rules established in the PUE.

RCD or difavtomat - an obligatory part of the wiring in the bath and sauna

Select cables and fittings for indoor wiring, taking into account their ability to work in conditions of high temperatures and humidity. Particularly stringent are the requirements for wiring in the steam room and washroom. Here it is recommended to use only wires of the following types:

  • PVKV;
  • PRCA;
  • PRKS;
  • RKGM;
  • PMTK;
  • OLFLEX HEAT 250.

In other rooms, such as a lounge, vestibule or dressing room, it is allowed to use wires of NYM or VVGng-LS varieties.

It is forbidden to use PUNP wires due to possible significant deviations in the thickness of the core.

When choosing fixtures, lamps, sockets, it is important to consider their safety class (IP-44 / IP-65) and the presence of rubber-based seals. Choose lighting fixtures with a base made of corrosion-resistant materials, closed on the outside with heat-resistant glass. Sockets must be protected from moisture and splashes (covers).

It is forbidden to install fluorescent lamps and lamps with plastic protection in the bath.

A good choice for a steam room and washing room - lighting using modern fiber optics, resistant to humidity and high temperatures. For rooms such as a rest room and the same washing room, LED lamps are suitable. They consume little energy and give good illumination. Diode lamps are not suitable for a steam room.

How to bring electricity to the bath: underground or through the air?

The best option is to bring electricity through a separate cable directly from the main electrical panel. You can do this in one of the following ways:

  • by air - cheap and fast.
  • underground - requires a significant investment of time and money.

The chosen method must be reflected in the design of the structure. Choosing the "air" method, you must strictly adhere to the norms for the location of the cable in height and not only:

  1. The cable cannot be located at least 6 meters from the roadway.
  2. The minimum distance from the pedestrian part to the cable is 3.5 meters.
  3. The distance between the supports is not more than 25 meters.
  4. The cable must enter the building at a height of at least 2.75 meters.

With the "air" method, a self-insulating power wire (SIP 4) is used, where there is no carrier cable. In the SIP cable, the cross section of the aluminum conductors is at least 16 mm 2. The number of cores depends on the selected input type: single-phase for 2 cores or three-phase for 4 cores. The main problem with the SIP cable is its low plasticity, which makes it difficult to insert the wire into the circuit breaker.

The SIP cable is inserted into the room through a metal sleeve. Do not forget that inside the bath you can not use wires with aluminum cores.

You can bring electricity to the bath by air

For the underground method, an expensive, but very durable cable of the VBbShv brand is used (the second name is “cable with armor” due to the steel protection between the polymer sheaths). He immediately has 4 copper wires and a cross section of 10 mm 2.

Step-by-step instruction for underground cable laying to the bath / sauna building:

  1. Dig a trench at least 0.7 m deep and pour 10 cm of sand into it.
  2. Lay the wires on the sand in waves and cover with another 10 cm sand layer.
  3. Backfill soil 0.2 m thick, on which lay the warning grid.
  4. The cable is introduced into the room through a steel sleeve.
  5. Before connecting to the shield, the wire is released from protective sheaths. Do not forget to take care of grounding and lightning protection.

You can bring electricity to the bathhouse underground

Features of the installation of internal wiring in the bath and sauna with your own hands + diagram

Many people can handle the installation of wiring inside a bathhouse or sauna. The main thing is to take into account everything to the smallest detail and comply with the requirements prescribed in the PUE.

The main stages of wiring installation in the bath:

  • Shield installation;
  • Wiring from the shield;
  • Connecting fixtures;
  • Connecting outlets.

Key requirements for the installation of the switchboard:

  1. Place the shield as close to the exit as possible, in a place with good ventilation, free access and bright lighting.
  2. Choose a device with a case made of reliable material and a high level of protection against moisture.
  3. The minimum distance from the floor surface to the top of the device is 1.4 m-1.8 m.

The shield must be protected from moisture and be in an easily accessible place.

The electrical panel includes:

  • introductory machine;
  • outgoing machines.

For a single-phase connection, there are at least 3 cores in the main cable. In accordance with the requirements of GOST, the phase conductor is gray (it can also be brown or white) and is placed on the top terminal of the main circuit breaker. From the lower terminal, it is moved by jumpers to the upper terminals of the outgoing switches. It can be moved there with distributing tires. The zero core of blue or blue color is placed on the zero block. The third core is yellow-green, protective, directed to the protective block. For wires going to consumers, the phase conductors are connected to the lower contacts of the outgoing circuit breakers. Input cable and the wires coming from the shield are led out through the corrugated pipe.

Sign automata to quickly disable the desired branch if necessary and facilitate future repairs. And also inside it is worth placing a visual wiring diagram.

When wiring the electrical cable from the shield, adhere to the following rules:

  • Try to make the wiring of the outgoing wire in one piece.
  • If the walls are wooden, it is better to mount open wiring.
  • Do not use PVC pipes, metal pipes as a sheath for wires.
  • Wires are mounted only vertically and horizontally. Twisting and kinks are not allowed.
  • Electrical switches and sockets should be located in the dressing room, vestibule or rest room. In the steam room and washing department, their installation is unacceptable.
  • Cable cores are connected by welding or soldering.
  • Do not lay wires over the stove.

In a wooden bath, you can make open wiring

It is forbidden to place switches and electrical sockets in the washing compartment and the steam room, do not forget about it.

Most often, a single-phase connection is used.

As for connecting fixtures, it is preferable to place them on the walls, 20 cm below the ceiling, but not on the ceiling itself (where the maximum temperature is).

Installation of internal wiring and sockets. Video

After completing the work with the wiring, you need to check the quality of its work, the serviceability of the grounding, etc. It is best to entrust this to the specialists of the energy supervision or fire service.

The most common wiring mistakes

The most common errors in the installation of electricians in bath rooms and saunas are associated with non-compliance with the requirements of the PUE or incorrect calculations. Basically, problems arise in the following situations:

  • Incorrectly selected wire type and size of its section.
  • Insufficient insulation of electrical wiring or its poor quality.
  • Failure to comply with the safety requirements prescribed in the PUE during work.

Competent step-by-step installation of electrical wiring in the bath. Video

When deciding to install electrical wiring in a sauna or bath on your own, do not forget how important it is to do this work competently, observing safety rules, to be attentive even to small details. Competently executed installation of electricians in a bath or sauna is a guarantee of safe rest and protection of the building from fire. Before starting work, study the PUE in latest edition. Consider all possible risks, approach electrical installation responsibly, or entrust these worries to professional electricians.