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Furniture connection dovetail. "Dovetail" fastening, connection. Consider slot milling fixtures

What is a dovetail connection

Figure 8. Dovetail spike connection.

  • a - the distance between the spikes
  • b - spike width
  • in - groove width
  • g - interval (one third of the width of the spike)

In the construction of wooden houses, one of the most durable and beautiful joints is the dovetail. In it, all the parts hold each other very firmly, you can even not use glue. Each of the structural details tightly clamps the spikes of the other, and displacement does not occur. The connection surface is also quite large, often larger than other studded designs.

Rice. 9. Varieties of the dovetail connection

  • a - open connection
  • b - semi-hidden connection
  • c - semi-secret connection made by machine

"Dovetail" - tenon connection which are performed in a specific order. Preparatory part: you need to measure the blanks, then mark the grooves and spikes, providing for the obligatory bevels. Then the markup must be transferred from the wider side to the end of the part and then to the opposite side.

After that, you should file the grooves and cut them out with a chisel. Using a pre-prepared board, mark the places where spikes and grooves are planned on another board. The latter along the inner edges are cleaned at an angle to prevent the tree from splitting. Upon completion of their actions, you need to connect both parts without glue. If necessary, you should correct the design, glue the parts by pressing them so that the glue dries better.

The dovetail connection provides for the engagement of parts with specially shaped teeth. The spikes are driven into special grooves that are on the edged board (horizontally located). Boards can only be connected and disconnected when the spikes are vertical, otherwise it is impossible. The types and methods of dovetail connections differ only in the shape of the spikes (Fig. 9).

These compounds are used only for those parts that are not covered with colored varnish and paints. Therefore, the spikes and grooves of the product must be evenly spaced across its entire width and must be identical (except for the extreme ones). This will provide good quality connections.

Rice. 10. Marking the connection "dovetail"

  • a - c - execution sequence

To mark the connection correctly, you need to accurately select the bevels of the dovetail spikes. The sequence of operations (Fig. 10) during this work must be clearly observed (in particular, when drawing out). First, at the attachment point, you need to mark the thickness of the adjacent part on the blank board, then mark half of this length and the line to which the distance is three times greater than the thickness of this part. If it is necessary in the future to make the surface of the workpiece for three grooves and four spikes, it is necessary to put marks on the line, which serves as an auxiliary one. This distance should be divisible by 10. The distance figure that we received, in units of division, must be transferred to the marking line (Fig. 10, a).

The next step: with light strokes, you need to mark the middle lines on the workpiece where the grooves will be located. At this stage, the middle lines of the grooves are marked with dashed lines on the workpiece (Fig. 10, b). And finally, auxiliary lines are also drawn from the points of intersection of the middle lines to the auxiliary marking line through the points on the line "half the thickness of the board" (Fig. 10, c).

To mark the bevels of the spikes, you can use a sheet of metal, for example, tin, and make a blank out of it (Fig. 11). For this purpose, the master cuts out the appropriate shape, cleans the edges, treats the surface, if necessary (for example, from rust).

Rice. 11. Device for marking bevels of spikes

After the marking lines are transferred, you need to shade the drop-down areas on the product, and also mark the gaps between the spikes so as not to confuse what to cut and what not. This is very useful when using a chisel. And then you can start sawing.

First, those areas where the slope is the same are sawn through, and then the part is turned over and its other edges are sawn. Periodically check on all sides that the blade is pointing correctly and that the cut does not need to be corrected. When grooves are cut, the chisel should only be held vertically, and the part at this time should be attached to the workbench in a strictly horizontal position.

First you need to make grooves with a chisel on one side of the board, approximately to its middle. Then you need to turn the board over and make grooves on its other side. First, according to the rules, it is better to make spikes, then start making grooves on another board. You can do it differently: first make grooves, then use them to mark the spikes on the other side of the board, the end. So you will not lose the marking lines on the dark wood material.

To connect the parts together, you need to clamp them tightly, always vertically. The cuts must be made so that they are parallel to the length of the board. Light beveling now to the right, then to the left is allowed. Before applying glue to the surface, it is necessary to process it with sandpaper, except for the edges, which should not be rounded.

Then you should connect the boards in such a way that the grooves and spikes cannot split. To connect parts made of wood, you need to use a mallet (Fig. 12). It is important to avoid direct impacts on a wooden product. It is worth using a separate bar in order to protect parts from damage and cracks.

Rice. 12. Using a mallet when connecting wooden parts

Upon completion of the connection of the parts with the help of spikes, you need to correct the errors with carpentry putty. It needs to be distributed over the cracks, and not over the entire area. corner connection. Therefore, it is better to take a chisel, and not a large spatula. It is better to press the putty in those places where correction is needed, and not in all in a row. Instead of a chisel and saw to cut through complex types of tenons, most carpenters today use specialized machinery. There are also certain types of cutters for cutting grooves. If you equip it with a special guiding device, you will get perfect grooves in the wood with a uniform distribution.

Figure 13. Prevention of slot splitting in a dovetail joint

  • 1 - bevels
  • 2 - additional bar

There are also effective ways in order to cut grooves using metal templates. They are used by attaching to a drill. To prevent the grooves from splitting, small bevels are made for the dovetail connection. They are performed along the edges on the inner area of ​​the spikes. The process of gluing the joint called "dovetail" must be done sequentially. It will also require an additional bar. It will help to properly distribute the load - only the connecting grooves will receive it. This will help prevent damage to the spikes (fig. 13).

Dovetail connections to the lock can be made different ways. Some craftsmen are attracted by the decorativeness of the repeating pattern. Performing all varieties of "Dovetail" is an interesting task for any woodworker

Through connection dovetail

Through "dovetail" is a traditional connection for articulation of the ends of boards from the array. It is widely used in drawer designs and furniture making. Electric milling machines and special devices are used for machine production of such joints.

Marking spikes

Set the cutting thickness gauge to the thickness of the wood.

Draw a line of spiked shoulders (“TAILS”) around the end of the spiked piece along all of its edges and on the sides of the socketed piece. Where the risks from the thicknesser can further spoil the appearance finished product, use a sharpened pencil and square.

Then mark the nests (or partitions between them). The size and quantity can vary depending on the width of the boards and the type of wood (softwoods require larger and less spaced studs than hardwoods). The appearance of the finished connection can be no less diverse. Approximately to give the product a good appearance spikes should be the same size and evenly spaced, but wider than the partitions between the nests.

Start by drawing a line with a pencil across the end of the workpiece at a distance of 6 mm from each edge, then divide and mark the distance between them into an even number of equal parts. Set aside 3 mm on each side of the marks and draw lines across the butt.

Mark the slope of the spikes on front side using a malka or a dovetail stencil. Mark the excess to avoid confusion later.

thorn cutting

Position the workpiece so that one side of each tenon is vertical. With the help of an award, cut out one of the side vertical edges of each spike. Stay close to the marking line on the out side and take care not to file past the shoulder line.

After reinstalling the workpiece in a vise, cut out the other side edges of the spikes. Place the workpiece in a vise horizontally and cut off the side run-off along the shoulder line. Remove the main excess wood between the spikes with an openwork saw.

Cut off the rest with a chisel or chisel with an oblique cutting edge, working from both sides to the middle to the line of the shoulders.

Nest marking

Rub the end face of the prepared workpiece with chalk and place it vertically in a vise. Lay the piece with the cut tenons in place, checking that the faces of the joint pieces match. Carefully line up the edges and shoulder line of the spikes on the chalked end and mark the shape of the spikes with a scriber or knife, then continue the lines to the shoulders on each side of the socketed blank. Mark the excess with a pencil.

carving nests

Place the workpiece vertically in a vise. Saw to the shoulder line at the angles marked on the spikes. Make a cut in the waste part so that it just touches the marking line. Remove the main part of the waste between the partitions of the nests with an openwork saw, cut the rest evenly to the shoulder line with a chisel or a chisel with a beveled cutting edge. Work from both sides to the center. Clean out the corners by holding the cutter under the corner of the inner edges of the sockets.

Connection assembly

Dovetail joints are made very precisely and only need to be fully assembled once. To check the fit of the parts, assemble the piece dry (without glue) and carefully cut off the excess in places that are too tight. Clean the inside of the parts before gluing.

Apply glue to both halves of the joint and use a hammer and a piece of wood to protect the surface of the product, tightly connect the parts. If you are working with a wide join, tap across the entire width to join the elements evenly. Remove excess glue before it sets. When the glue dries, clean the product with a jointer, working from the edges to the middle, so as not to chip off the end layers.

Dovetail corners

The angle of the dovetail should neither be too steep nor too sloping. Too much dovetail slope produces a weak short fiber at the corners, while too little slope can reduce bond strength. On a piece of wood, mark the bevel and install a bevel solution on it, or use a stencil or template. For hardwoods, the slope should be 1/8, and for softwood, it should be 1/6.

Decorative end-to-end dovetail connection

Graceful and neatly made through connections are pleasing to the eye and are often used in furniture designs. Decorative options are used to emphasize this property and demonstrate the art of the master.

The design of the connection complies with the basic principles of proportion and disproportion of the elements of the connection. The example shown here uses thinner than normal baffles.

Marking spikes

Along the entire perimeter of the end of the workpiece with spikes, apply a line marking the shoulders with a pencil or very lightly with a thickness gauge.

Continue the lines to the butt and mark the excess.

thorn cutting

Select the waste in the same way as with conventional dovetail through joints, using a tenon and openwork saw. Clean up with a chisel or chisel with an oblique cutting edge, working from the ends to the middle.

Nest marking

Rub the end face of the part with sockets with chalk. Cutting thickness solution, equal to the length(height) of small spikes, mark at the end the thickness line of small partitions between the sockets. Partitions mark on the detail with spikes using the tip of a saw or scriber. Continue the lines to the shoulder line on each side and mark the excess.

carving nests

Remove the bulk of the waste with an award (tenon) and an openwork saw and trim the shoulders with a chisel or chisel. To cut small partitions to size, press the workpiece on a flat board against a workbench or workbench.

Make a cut across the grain near the shoulder line. Mark the ends of the spikes. Carefully cut off the excess, working along the fibers. Then repeat the operation and stop at the line marking the shoulders (thickness gauge) and the thickness line. Apply glue and assemble the joint as you would a regular dovetail thru-lock.

Through connection beveled dovetail

Sometimes a through dovetail lock is combined with a beveled corner joint so that a chamfer with a figured profile can be made on the edge.

The depth of the bevelled part depends on the chamfer profile.

Marking spikes

Using a thickness gauge, mark a line of shoulders on both sides and the bottom edge of the spiked piece. Draw a bevel line on the top edge. From the top of the end, measure the depth required for the chamfer. Draw a line along the mark across the butt and around to the line of the shoulders. Make a faint mark with a pencil 6mm from the first mark and also 6mm above the bottom edge. Distribute the required number of spikes between these marks. Note the excess.

thorn cutting

Saw through the sides of the spikes and along the bevel depth line and remove the waste with an openwork saw. Trim the shoulder1 with a chisel or bevelled chisel. Leave the excess on the bevel for now.

Nest marking

Draw a light line of shoulders with a thickness gauge on both sides of the socket piece. Mark the bevel line on the top edge. Rub the butt with chalk and mark the nests (partitions) and the bevel on the workpiece with spikes. Apply lines of spikes on the end and on the sides up to the shoulder line, and up to the bevel line - only on the inside. Note the excess.

Through connection with a rebate in the dovetail lock

The manufacture of a box with a dovetail joint, having a bottom inserted into the fold (sample) along the lower edge of the walls, requires some modification of this corner joint in order to avoid gaps in the lower corners. This is achieved by shifting the position of the cleat shoulder, which closes this gap.

Marking spikes

Use a thickness gauge to mark the shoulders on the sides and across the top edge. Also draw a line of fold depth along the inner edge, across the butt and along the front side to the line of the shoulders with a reims. Mark the inner side of the part with sockets at the same gauge setting.

Reinstall the thickness gauge if required and mark the seam width on the edges of both parts of the connection. Make one pencil mark on the spiked workpiece 6mm below the planned seam depth and another 6mm from the opposite edge. Between these marks, mark the position of the spikes. Draw a line across the intended chamfer edge on the spiked part to match the seam on the slotted part and mark the waste.

Nest marking

Using a thickness gauge, draw a line of shoulders on both sides of the part with sockets. Rub the butt with chalk and mark the nests on the spiked part with a scriber or a sharpened pencil. Note the excess.

Beveled dovetail connection

The design of this dovetail is completely hidden by the bevel and is often referred to as a hidden dovetail or hidden lock. This connection is used for fine work and requires careful and careful execution. The parts to be joined must be of the same thickness and cut to length. Spikes can only be marked by sockets, which are cut out first. Marking and Grooving Set the cutting thickness gauge to the thickness of the workpiece and mark a line of shoulders across the inside, working from the butt.

Using a scriber knife and bevel, mark the bevel on each edge between the gauge line and outer corner. Set the thickness gauge to the width of the overlap and mark the seam.

Mark the end from the outside, and the depth line of the fold from the end. Cut off the excess seam and smooth the surface with a shoulder planer. Start marking the nests by drawing a line with a thickness gauge (parallel to each edge) from the shoulder line to the overlap. The distance should not exceed 6 mm from the edge.

Mark the width and position of the nests at the end between the lines drawn by the thickness gauge. Make a cardboard template for the dovetail and press it against the side of the overlap so it doesn't move out of position. Continue marking to the shoulder line and mark the excess with a chisel or chisel.

In this case, the saw may cut into the overlap a little. Cut off the excess bevel. Set the workpiece vertically and cut off with a chisel or chisel the main part of the waste from the overlap bevel.

Trim the bevel with a shoulder planer. Use a beveled stop to help guide the planer correctly.

Marking and cutting

Follow the recommendations for making a part with nests up to and including cutting the fold. Place the spiked part on the workbench with the inner side facing up. Place the part with nests vertically so that its inner side is flush with the marking line of the thicknesser. Mark the nests with a scriber (partition). Continue the lines to the butt and mark the excess.

Cut off the excess bevel. Then saw through hundreds of studs and cut the waste between the studs and between the end studs and bevel shoulders. Finally, cut clean and bevel the overlap as you would with the nested part. Test assembly before gluing.

Inclined dovetail connection

This compound is used to make rigid joints. This is not an easy task, as it is difficult to visualize, difficult to mark, and all the edges of the parts are at an angle, which requires careful cutting. The blanks must be of the same thickness and allowed along the length and width. It is necessary to make a drawing in projections, according to which the dimensions of the workpieces are calculated before marking the connection.

Execution of the drawing

Start with a side view of the frame joint at ready-made. Specify the thickness of the wood, and the dotted line - the initial dimensions of the workpiece. Draw a vertical projection (plan) under the side. Then project the side view onto a horizontal plane.

Marking and cutting ends

Cut the blanks to length and width, as shown by the dotted lines in the side view. Set the bevel to the angle of inclination X. Mark this angle on the inside, working from the angle of the connection. Cut off the ends at this angle of inclination. Set the second bevel at the U angle. Mark it on the edges, measuring from the outside.

Connect the marks on the edge to form a guide line for chipping the beveled edge. In fact, the bevel should be checked perpendicular to the edge during the planing process to get the true bevel angle. With the workpiece in the vise with the end in a horizontal position, carefully plan the end bevel on each workpiece.

Marking and cutting connection elements

Mark the spikes on the front side of the spiked part. First measure the thickness of the material on both sides of both blanks, measuring at the beveled ends. Connect the lines on each edge of the spiked part. With a small one attached to the end corner X, mark a line from the inner lower corner along the edge of the spiked part.

Make marks 6mm below the top edge and 6mm above the bottom. Calculate and mark the shape and position of the spikes between these marks. Then, by attaching a cardboard stencil to the square, mark the spikes on the outside.

Mark the slope of the stud ends at the slanted end of the studded part. Use a bevel set at an X angle. Hold the bevel block so that it is located in a parallel plane with respect to the end. Using a square and dovetail stencil, mark the spikes on the inside. Note the excess. Carefully cut out the spikes exactly according to the marked corners. Place the workpiece in the vise at an angle so that it cuts vertically.

Mark the end of the part with nests along the cut out spikes. Rub the end with chalk so that the lines from the scriber are more clearly visible. Lay the spiked part on the end so that the edges and inner shoulders match, and draw around the spikes. Using a bevel set at an X angle, draw parallel lines from each tenon to the line of the shoulders. Mark the excess, then use a saw and a chisel or chisel to carefully remove it according to the markup.

Can be beveled on long edges both before and after gluing. In both cases, use a bevel set at an X angle to check. Sloping sides can create difficulties when gluing. If during assembly you pound the connection with a hammer to fit the elements into place, use a piece of wood as a spacer to protect the parts from damage.

The main requirements for any prefabricated wooden structure are: reliability, durability and aesthetics. To solve these problems, a wide variety of docking methods have been developed. One of them is the dovetail.

This connection is formed by spikes on one part and cut teeth on the second. Both elements have the shape of an isosceles trapezoid, reminiscent of a swallow's tail. At proper preparation they are precisely engaged, forming a reliable design.

Connection application

This fastening method is used in various areas where it is necessary to obtain a reliable fastening of two parts or to assemble a whole structure. For example, in mechanical engineering, dovetail studs are used to fasten blades on a disk in various compressors, in individual units of metal-cutting machines, and in optical devices to ensure accurate linear movement.

This type of fastening is most widely used in construction and furniture production.

In construction during assembly wooden houses at the ends of the fastened logs, dovetail elements (teeth and grooves) are made. It is advisable to use it for a connection beam having rectangular shape. The dimensions of the groove and spike determine the reliability of the entire future structure.

In addition, in construction it is used in the production of various joinery products:

  • window frames;
  • windows, vents and transoms;
  • doorways and doors themselves;
  • interior partitions, arches, various recesses.

For rough connections, a scale of 1:5 is applied. It provides reliable contact especially for large parts. This scale is acceptable for soft woods. In hardwood structures, a scale of 1:8 is usually used. This contact looks more aesthetically pleasing. When choosing this parameter, it must be taken into account that at a small angle of inclination, under the influence of external load or internal stresses, the structure may disperse. Therefore, it is fixed with wood glue. When setting a large angle, the lower part of the spike is reduced, which can lead to its destruction.

Making a dovetail with your own hands

The use of a dovetail mount allows you to get beautiful and reliable homemade designs from wood. Making a dovetail is easy. However, for the production of high-quality teeth and grooves, it is necessary to have certain skills in carpentry and have the necessary tools.

The sequence of self-manufacturing of such a connection is reduced to the following list of operations:

  1. Production of markings for future spikes. Before marking, determine the number of teeth (this value depends on the geometric parameters of the workpiece). With the help of a thickness gauge, a line of so-called shoulders is drawn. Marking is done on all four faces. Using a special template, markup is applied on the end and side surface. To avoid errors when sawing, the areas to be removed are marked with a special marking or color.
  2. Cutting spikes. It is advisable to fix the part to ensure the accuracy of the cut. If it has large dimensions and weight, it is necessary to ensure its immobility and only after that proceed with cutting. First, cuts are made to the value of the marked shoulders. The main condition for the work is to maintain the perpendicular position of the saw with respect to the surface of the butt. To prevent the saw from drifting to the side, experienced carpenters use various guides, such as a carpenter's square.
  3. Removing gaps. This procedure is performed in two ways. In the first case, a manual or electric jigsaw is used. The second uses a chisel and a hammer.
  4. Markup of elements. Produce the marking of the angles of inclination of the teeth and grooves. The amount of this slope depends on the selected ratio. To obtain the same angles, a piece with sawn spikes is used as a template.
  5. Sawing grooves. This procedure is similar in manufacturability to the process of removing gaps. To obtain high-quality results, it is necessary to ensure the fixation of the part and accuracy when cutting. Particular attention should be paid to the removal of the allowances provided.
  6. Preliminary adjustment and assembly of the structure. This operation is necessary to check the accuracy of the manufactured spikes and grooves. With the help of pre-fitting, it is possible to identify possible defects. This will allow them to be eliminated or measures taken to ensure reliable fastening. Fitting should be carried out carefully without unnecessary effort and distortion, so as not to break the teeth. They should slide into the spikes smoothly. If necessary, grind with sandpaper.
  7. Final assembly and gluing of the structure. After checking, glue is applied to the contact surfaces of the teeth and spikes. Glue is chosen depending on the weight and dimensions of the product. Modern manufacturers offer enough wide range of such products (various chemical composition, for different types of wood, conditions of use). To ensure reliable bonding, the parts are fixed with clamps and left to dry completely.

Tools and materials

The dovetail mounting method is used when self-manufacturing wooden products on the industrial enterprises. The possibilities of the home workshop are limited, so for quality workmanship for such fastening, the following tools and equipment are required:

  • saw with fine teeth (usually a back saw is used);
  • jigsaw;
  • chisel (it is desirable to have several with different widths of the cutting edge);
  • a hammer;
  • marking tool ( ready-made templates, thickness gauge, joiner's square);
  • construction pencil (sometimes a marker is used);
  • carpentry knife.

If the workshop has power tools, they will facilitate the solution of the task. May be useful: an electric drill, a jigsaw or a vertical saw with fine teeth.

To make the connection, you can use a manual milling cutter. In addition, if a permanent assembly of wooden parts is planned, special devices are developed that allow marking and serve as guides when cutting.

In furniture and woodworking industries, teeth and grooves are cut on special machines. These include:

  • lamellar milling cutter;
  • milling machine with nozzles;
  • a special machine for the manufacture of dovetail fasteners;
  • industrial patterns.

Making a dovetail with a router is much easier and faster. The machine allows you to maintain the specified dimensions with a high degree of accuracy.

Connection design nuances

When designing dovetail elements, the following characteristics must be considered:

  • size and weight of each part;
  • type of wood;
  • the scope of the future design (it will help to take into account the applied loads and internal tensions of the wood);
  • the number of required grooves and teeth;
  • their shape and geometric dimensions (length, angle of inclination, base size);
  • spacing between teeth.

Taking into account these nuances will allow you to get a strong and durable mount. For the correct execution of the dovetail connection, the drawing must be made in accordance with established norms and rules. Too much a large number of elements to increase strength. This leads to a reduction in the size of each tooth, which can cause it to break during installation. In addition, it significantly increases the difficulty in manufacturing and leads to an increase in manufacturing time. Therefore, established ratios are used, for example 2:1 or 3:1.

After carrying out the preparatory work, it is imperative to carry out a preliminary check of the accuracy of the engagement. If mistakes were made, it is necessary to adjust each element (thorn or groove). After eliminating all the shortcomings, they begin to glue the parts.

State standards

The main standard that establishes the rules for the manufacture of fasteners for wooden parts is GOST 9330-2016. It specifies the dimensions of the teeth, grooves, dowels various types assemblies. The standard provides diagrams with samples of such fasteners. The rounding rules and symbols used in the drawings are indicated.

Download GOST 9330-2016

Dovetail joinery was created centuries ago before the advent of reliable adhesives and affordable fasteners. This traditional way connecting two wooden parts is still in demand today. It is used in box structures and in the manufacture of furniture. We will talk in detail about all the features of this carpentry connection, the intricacies of its design and how to create manually and mechanized methods.

Dovetail is not only aesthetics

It is widely believed that today, in an era of affordable quality glue and cheap fasteners, the use of a dovetail is more of an aesthetic whim. This judgment is only partly true. Undoubtedly, all possible variants of this tenon connection are very expressive, testify to the skill of the carpenter and are able to decorate any project. But the dovetail, in addition to beauty, also has important functional advantages.

The compound resists the natural deformations of wood well, without losing structural integrity. Due to this quality, it is advisable to use it in large parts, especially in solid wood products in the manufacture of furniture and drawers.

Using a dovetail, you can choose the optimal strength of the connection: this is affected by the total number of spikes and the angle of the lug. Another feature that increases mechanical strength is a large bonding area.

Anatomy of a dovetail

The connection consists of two parts. At the end of one of them, wide trapezoidal "dovetails" are carved, on the other - narrow reciprocal spikes. The spike on the edge is called half or one-sided due to the presence of one bevel instead of two.

What should be considered when designing a connection?

When designing a dovetail, a number of points are taken into account that will affect both its strength and appearance.

The distance between the spikes and their size determine the strength of the connection.

At equal intervals (ratio 1:1), the mechanical strength is the highest. But this configuration is rarely used. Since, due to the large number of elements, the manufacture of the part takes a corresponding time. The chance of making mistakes that cause a loose fit is also higher. Typically a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio is used. In these cases, the strength of the connection remains the same high.

When joining wide parts along the edges, additional spikes are made with small gaps. This solution helps to effectively deal with warping of wood.

This is an important parameter that determines the mechanical characteristics of the joint. If the angle is too small, the lock will not lock and the mount will turn into a regular spike connection. If the angle is too large, during assembly, the narrowed part of the dovetail may split and the spike will fall off.

For soft wood, the dovetail angle is made steeper, as it is more prone to crushing and deformation under the influence of loads. The optimal ratio is 1:6. For hardwood, the angle is made less steep - 1:8.

The design principle of the dovetail shape is shown in the drawing.

How to make accurate markup?

When making a dovetail with your own hands, marking accuracy is of paramount importance. For its application, traditionally, a bevel and a square are used.

A more practical and convenient device for these purposes is a special template. Such markers come with different angle indicators, and are designed for soft or hard woods.

Making a dovetail with your own hands

To make a dovetail manually, you will need the following set of tools:

INSTRUMENTS

  • marking thicknesser;
  • Malka or a special marker;
  • joiner's square;
  • edge saw;
  • carpenter's chisel and mallet;
  • marking knife or pencil.

Cutting out the connection begins with the preparation of the part with spikes. This is important as it will be used for dovetail markings. In order not to get confused in orientation, temporary markings are made on the parts, marking the front and back sides, top and bottom edges.

We mark the line of shoulders on all four faces with a thickness gauge. Having decided on the number of spikes, using a special template, we apply markings, first on the end, and then on the face of the part. For the convenience of subsequent work, we mark the areas that will be removed.

The same procedure can be performed using a bevel and a carpenter's square.

With a back saw, we make even cuts to the shoulder line marked with a thickness gauge. We hold the canvas strictly perpendicular to the end; we saw with uniform movements without jerks. To prevent the saw from being pulled to the side, a small carpenter's square can be used as an impromptu guide.

Waste between spikes can be removed in two ways:

The first is with a jigsaw. In this case, the main part of the waste is removed, and small residues are carefully cut and cleaned with a chisel.

Choosing waste is not much more difficult using a single chisel. Having fixed the part on the workbench, we remove the wood in layers, as shown in the diagram.

  1. Dovetail markings

We use the spiked part as a template for marking the dovetails. Aligning the end of the first part with the shoulder line, we apply the dovetail markings as shown in the photo. For convenience, we shade the waste sections.

  1. Sawing "dovetails"

We make cuts with a back saw. We clamp the workpiece in a vice at an angle, so that the marking lines are not at an angle, but vertical. This will increase the convenience of work and allow you to make a cut more accurately.

We cut not strictly along the marking line, but next to it, so as to create a small margin for subsequent trimming of the connection. We saw smoothly, without jerks, we stop at the line of the shoulder.

Having made all the cuts, we remove the waste between the “dovetails” with a chisel. This process is similar to stripping spikes, except that the master is faced with the task of carefully and evenly trimming the left allowance.

We cut out the shoulders. We saw off the waste with a small allowance, then cut it with a chisel to the marking line.

  1. Dry assembly and connection fitting

Before gluing, dry assembly is carried out to check the tightness of the fit. We insert the part with spikes into the dovetails and carefully knock it out with a mallet. To avoid breakage of spikes and tails, cover the connection with a piece of wood that will spread the blows.

Spikes and tails should fit snugly together. In the correct connection, light tapping with a mallet is enough to assemble. If the connection is too tight, the parts are disassembled, the problematic thickening is determined and very carefully cut with a chisel.

The glue is applied in a thin layer on all contact surfaces of both parts of the box joint. assembled structure pull together. To distribute pressure over the entire joint area, wooden blocks are placed under the jaws of the clamps.

Details of box connections are always made in several copies. You can streamline your workflow by stacking blanks and sawing the entire series in one go.

How to make a dovetail with a router

For mass production of parts with such a lock, it is advisable to use mechanized methods. Most the best option in this case, it is the use of special templates, in which one side is intended for milling "dovetails", the second - for creating spikes.

Dovetail templates require the use of two different bits. The first is a conical cutter for cutting trapezoidal dovetails. The second is a straight wood cutter to create spikes.

The part with the "tails" is positioned in such a way that its edge is located strictly in the center of the slot. We install the second part (with spikes) flush on the reverse side. For an accurate fit of two blanks, we use a carpenter's square.

We fix the assembled structure in a horizontal position, clamping it with clamps or in a vice.

  1. Dovetail milling

For convenience, we mark the waste part with a pencil. We set the desired overhang of the cone cutter and cut out the gaps between the dovetails.

On the corresponding side of the template with a straight cutter, we cut out the spikes along the entire length of the part.

Cutting off excess spikes. We release the clamps and move the template so that each spike is in the center of the slot.

We mark the extra elements and cut them off with a milling cutter.

Detachable fastening of parts using the “dovetail” method is carried out by installing a trapezoidal spike, cut at the edges of another element, arranged on one side of the workpiece, into the groove. The type of connection of parts is used in many structures that require the creation of a rigid one-piece frame: small arms, furniture production, mechanical engineering, wooden capital construction.

After the drawing is drawn up, the dimensions of the dovetail are selected individually. The master proceeds to perform preparatory operations, during which the frame and sled take part. The material used in the process of solving the problem with loaded nodes can be steel, cast iron, bronze. In other cases, connection types can be made from light non-ferrous metals and plastics. The surface of the product is processed with a profile cutter with finishing with a scraper or a polishing disc.

Before you make a dovetail with your own hands, you should create a drawing, the dimensions of which must withstand the allowable operational loads. When making a cut, it is necessary to correctly select the angle of inclination of the sides of the trapezoid, the standard value of which is 45 0, 55 0 and 60 0. The connection by the selected method is applied in the system:

  1. canopy of small arms;
  2. metalworking machine;
  3. optical device;
  4. "In the paw" and "frying pan" in wooden housing construction.

To positive properties technology includes high structural strength. The application of the method allows you to fasten elements without nails, screws, self-tapping screws and chops.

Application of the method with wood

The wooden spike and the mounting groove must have an identical shape and be connected into a tight tight knot. The dovetail connection, the drawing of which is intended for different products, helps to form a T-shaped and angular fastening of boards, beams or logs without overlaps at the installation sites of internal partitions. The technology of assembling wooden structures allows using for interior partitions construction material smaller diameter. If necessary, protection from wind and drafts, the corner joints of the structure of the capital structure are sealed with jute fibers.

A classic example of using the connection of elements is a drawer of a furniture set. The electric carpentry equipment used in the construction of the tenon and groove system for a hand router allows the interlacing of tenon elements using the natural resistance of the articulation to the force applied to the front of the product during extension.

The connection, the drawing of which is drawn up for each item individually, can be performed in different ways.

Most of the craftsmen working in furniture production and housing construction prefer the method of end-to-end connection of joints because of the decorativeness of the repeating pattern. Preparation of elements is carried out on a milling machine with a special device.

Marking the connecting spikes

The preparation of the material for connecting the tongue and groove with your own hands according to the template is carried out after marking the “tails” with a thickness gauge, pencil or marker on the sides and edges of the part with sockets or partitions. The dimensions and number of elements depend on the type of material, the width of the board and the way the spikes are arranged. To give decorative look the connection lines of the spikes must be of the same size, located at the same distance from each other.

Before starting work on the machine, the material is equipped with markings across the workpiece with a deviation of 6 mm from the edges. The rest of the board must be divided into an even number of spikes, measure 3 mm from each side of the marks, draw a marking line perpendicular to the end. Using a stencil or bevel, apply the contours of the slope of the spikes for the dovetail joints.

Cutting trapezoidal spikes

To form the connecting elements, the box blank is placed in a vise in such a way that one side of the spikes is located vertically. On the side face of each spike, cuts are made that do not reach the shoulder line, the workpiece is reinstalled, and other side faces are processed in a similar way. After that, the part is fixed horizontally, the lateral waste is cut off at the level of the shoulders. Excess wood between the spikes must be removed with an openwork saw.

Marking and sawing out the landing nest

For accurate marking of the seat, the workpiece is placed on a carpenter's table in a vice in a vertical position, the end of the board is rubbed with chalk to obtain an imprint on the part with the spikes already cut. With the help of a special device, the edges, the line of the side shoulder shoulders are aligned in the form of spikes and the end of the workpieces with nests.

After finishing preparatory work you can begin to form a groove at the corners of the workpiece next to the shoulder line in accordance with the spike markings. The cut, for which the thorn groove cutter for a hand router is used, should be made in the waste part of the board so that the groove is parallel to the marking line. Excess wood between the partitions of the nest is removed with an openwork saw, cleaned with a chisel or chisel with a beveled edge. The movement of the tool should be directed from the edges to the center.

Assembly of connecting joints

For the production of products, the connection of parts of which is carried out by the dovetail method, almost all types of wood, plywood, and plastic are used. A feature of the method is non-separable technology with the use of fasteners (carpenter's glue). Checking the accuracy and fitting parts is carried out after:

  1. preliminary "dry" assembly of the final product;
  2. removal of excess material;
  3. cleaning or sanding tight spots.

The adhesive is applied to the adjoining sides of two pieces of wood. For a tight connection of the parts of the structure, a hammer and a wooden gasket are used to protect the product from accidental damage.

After tapping the joint along the entire line, it is necessary to remove excess glue, the product is sent to dry, followed by cleaning with a jointer in the direction from the edge to the middle.

The shape and solution of the angle of cut

Standard bonding angles should not be sharp or obtuse. The large slope of the milling cut promotes the formation of short fibers in the corner. Insufficient slope of the groove reduces the strength of the connection of the elements. To solve the problem, experts recommend using bevel markings, templates or stencils. For hardwood, it is necessary to choose the optimal cut slope, which should be 1/8, for soft wood, the slope is milled by 1/6.

Decorative connection of elements

A neatly made grooved dovetail can serve as an additional decoration for household and office furniture. Design options for furniture design allow you to emphasize the beauty of wood and appreciate the skill of a specialist. The selected type of assembly of the product corresponds to the indicators of the standard proportions of the structure.

A feature of the "dovetail" is the possibility of cutting a log or beam into a half-tree in the shape of a trapezoid with corner fastening of parts. In wooden construction, the method of connecting beams using the “radical tenon” method is often used, when two elements are spliced ​​with a rectangular tenon and a groove of a similar shape. Sawing parts for connection is carried out with a cutter according to drawings, diagrams and dimensions.