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How to plant a fruit tree. Where to start your own and how to properly plant the first orchard. How and when to plant fruit trees

Once you have a plot and plan your future garden, think about its purpose and your own inclinations. Do you like to dig in the garden, work on the ground, or do you prefer walks around the neighborhood, barbecue, active games on fresh air. After all, it is on this that the principle of planning the site depends, dividing it into special zones and their ratio in size. The garden should be a comfortable and pleasant place for rest and work of the whole family. And here you have to follow certain rules.

Garden layout

After the site for the garden is selected, it is necessary to correctly orient it to the cardinal points and zone it. This is important to do to create optimal conditions for the growth and fruiting of trees and shrubs. With proper arrangement of plants on the site, you can provide them with sunlight or shade, protect them from wind, drying out of the soil. In addition, the thoughtful arrangement of plants relative to the entrance to the garden, outbuildings adjacent to its territory, and the source of water supply facilitates the work of the gardener.

The layout of the garden can be regular (geometric) or landscape. The regular layout is distinguished by symmetry and the arrangement of plants along geometric lines. All trees and shrubs should be placed at a certain distance from each other according to the scheme in the form of a square, rectangle, rhombus. Paths are laid between them. A staggered landing pattern is often used.

Square, rectangular and checkerboard planting patterns are suitable for regular shaped areas. Aisles in such a garden can be compacted - planted with other plants that do not require much light. If the site is narrow and long, then it is better to arrange trees and shrubs in a rectangular pattern. It is optimal for a small area garden. With dense planting, trees are arranged in rows every 8 m. A distance of 5-6 m is left between trees. Trees with a smaller crown (plum, cherry) can be planted between trees with a large crown. Berry bushes (gooseberries, currants) are located in the aisles. The distance from one bush to another is 1.25-1.5 m. Compaction of plantations with a rectangular arrangement of fruit trees is justified. Large trees (apple trees, pears) grow slowly in the first years and gradually occupy the space allotted for them. Less overall and durable will have time to give more than one crop during this time. Aging in plums and cherries is noted by the 20-25th year, and in berry bushes - from the 14th-16th year of life. When apple and pear trees grow, plum and cherry already cease to bear fruit in full force and they are uprooted. The placement of fruit trees in a square pattern is most often used on flat areas. The distance between the trees with this approach is the same on all sides. The chess layout of fruit trees is most often used in summer cottages. Trees are placed at the corners of the triangle at an equal distance from each other (Fig. 1). This approach allows you to plant 14% more fruit trees than with conventional planting. The chess planting pattern is suitable for a garden on terraces.

Rice. 1. Chess tree planting scheme: 1 - tall trees: 2 - medium and low trees

It is important to properly position in the garden fruit trees and shrubs by height (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. Types of trees by height: 1 - dwarf; 2 - medium height; 3 - tall

Distance between seedlings

If it is planned to grow apple trees in the garden on tall rootstocks, then a distance of 6-8 m is left between the rows, and 4-6 m between the trees in them. Apple trees on semi-dwarf rootstocks take up less space. Their rows are made with a distance of 5-7 m, and 3-4 m are left between plants. Rows for apple trees on dwarf rootstocks are placed at a distance of 4-5 m from each other. They stand 1.5-2 m between trees. Rows with pears on vigorous rootstocks are made with an interval of 6-8 m. The distance between trees in a row is 4-5 m.

Cherries and plums are planted in rows with an interval of 4 m, 3 m are left between the trees. The same trees of small-sized varieties are placed every 2 m in rows with an interval of 4-5 m. Chokeberry, currants, gooseberries are planted at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other, the rows are made 2-2.5 m wide.

Gooseberry bushes can grow up to 2.5 m in diameter. When planted in rows, bushes usually do not exceed 2 m in diameter. Gooseberries can be planted between seed fruit trees, leaving a distance of 1.5-2 m from them. As soon as the crowns of the trees grow so much that they close, the gooseberries are uprooted.

gooseberry in in large numbers planted in thin rows. The bushes are placed at a distance of 1.4-1.5 m from each other, and 2-2.5 m are left between the rows. After 5-6 years, the gooseberry bushes grow and the rows become continuous.

To quickly get a large harvest, sometimes 2 bushes are planted in one planting hole with a distance of 20 cm. During the first 3 years, gooseberries really give a bountiful harvest. In the future, the bushes grow strongly, oppress each other and quickly age. It is already difficult to plant them, as the roots will have to be severely damaged. Therefore, planting two bushes is impractical. A more rational combined landing pattern. Plants are often planted - every 0.75 m in a row, and between the rows they keep a distance of only 1 m. After 3-4 years, the bushes are thinned through one and 1.5 m remains in the rows between them. The bushes uprooted in autumn are planted in a new place. After 1-2 years, gooseberries are thinned out in a similar way again. This approach to cultivation allows you to get a decent harvest every year, even from young plants in a small area. Blackberries and raspberries take up less space. Their rows are made 2 m wide, and the bushes are placed at intervals of 0.6-0.7 m.

The effective life expectancy for horticulture and the scheme for planting fruit and berry crops in central Russia are presented in Table 1.

Table 1. Terms of operation and planting scheme for fruit and berry crops

In a landscape style garden, plants are placed randomly, following basic principles, to ensure that they optimal conditions for growth and fruiting. In such a garden, everything looks natural, there are more ornamental plants.

IN A LANDSCAPE GARDEN, FRUIT TREES ARE MOST OFTEN PLANT IN ROWS along parallel arcuate lines. Shrubs and flower beds are placed in such a way as to emphasize the beauty of the garden.

Windbreak plants can be planted on the north and east sides. They will protect more heat-loving fruit trees from strong winds. There you can place outbuildings or a residential building. However, they should not be tall and obscure the garden. One of the options for placing a garden, garden, house and outbuildings is shown in Figure 3.

Rice. 3. Layout of the site (N - north, south - south, unit of measurement - m): 1 - house, 2 - playground, 3 - toilet, 4 - shower, 5 - lawn, 6 - water tank, 7 - strawberries , 8 - vegetable crops, 9 - cherries, 10 - cherries, 11 - pears, 12 - medium-sized apple trees, 13 - grapes, 14 - gooseberries, 15 - currants, 16 - raspberries, 17 - apricots, 18 - sea buckthorn, 19 - plums , 20 - walnut, 21 - undersized apple trees, 22 - lilac

When planning a garden, the features of fruit and berry plants are taken into account - the need for light or shade, thermophilicity, resistance to drought, etc. Usually the tallest trees (apple trees, pears) are planted on the north side. In a southerly direction, shorter ones (plum, cherry), and then berry bushes (raspberries, currants, gooseberries) are placed. Next, a vegetable garden and low-growing berry plants (garden strawberries) are placed. With this approach, all plants receive enough sunlight (Fig. 4). Walnuts are located away from all fruit trees and shrubs. The best place for him is a place near the house.

Rice. 4. Illumination of trees and shrubs in the garden: 1 - with the correct arrangement of plants in height; 2 - with incorrect arrangement of plants in height

It is rational to place grapes along the fence on the south or southeast side of the site. Berry bushes can be isolated in a separate zone or planted between rows of fruit trees. On the north side, the most hardy species of fruit trees are placed. The most heat-loving trees (apricots, cherries) are planted in the center of the garden, in a place well lit and protected from the wind. You can plant them along the fence, from the side of the forest, near the wall of the house.

Trees should not create extensive shade in neighboring areas. So tall varieties they are planted at a distance of 3.4-4 m from the border with an adjacent plot, medium-sized ones - at a distance of 2-2.5 m. Smaller plants are planted near the house so that they do not obscure the windows. The free space between the fence and the trees can be taken by currants, raspberries, gooseberries. They can also grow well in the shade. However, 1 m should be left from them to the fence. It is not recommended to plant any trees and shrubs at a distance of 20 cm from the border with an adjacent plot.

When planting shrubs, it must be taken into account that they grow strongly and can interfere with the growth of other plants, so young shoots must be cut down. For the same reasons, it is better to plant raspberries, sea buckthorn, and currants away from other plants, in more remote corners of the garden. Lemongrass and actinidia are recommended to be planted near the house. With this arrangement, they will be protected from the wind. Creeping apple trees are planted only in areas covered with snow in winter. Without a snow shelter, they will freeze, so you can not place them in a windy place.

Plum, on the contrary, is planted where there is no large accumulation of snow. In high snowdrifts, her bark begins to rot in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe root collar, which can lead to the death of the entire tree. Usually, an elevated place is allocated for cherries. In order for plum and cherry to be well pollinated and bear fruit, it is recommended to plant them in 2-3 copies. different varieties. Currants, sea buckthorn, and chokeberry are planted in the sunniest place.

Blackcurrant prefers moist soil (loam) and sunny, wind-sheltered places, but can also grow in light shade. With strong shading, this shrub begins to bear less fruit. The soil with pronounced acidity for growing black currant is limed.

Red and white currants grow on light soils, do not tolerate shading. They are planted only in an open area with moderate humidity. These types of currants do not tolerate lowland areas and dry soil. Loose soil of any type with moderate moisture is suitable for gooseberries. It bears fruit well even on moderately acidic soils. At a high position ground water and stagnant water, the plant is affected by lichens and powdery mildew. The place for this berry bush is chosen sunny.

Strawberries need not only a site with the longest possible sunlight, but also protected from the wind in winter time. Strawberries grow well in one place for 3-4 years, after which they become smaller, often get sick and are affected by pests. Therefore, it is recommended to transplant it to another place.

The more in the garden various kinds and varieties of fruit trees and shrubs, the more likely it is to get a good harvest every year. If weather conditions are less favorable for one crop, they may be more suitable for another crop or variety. However, it is not recommended to plant apple and pear trees of summer and winter varieties nearby. It is better to select them according to close ripening groups, for example, summer and ripening in early autumn, winter and ripening in late autumn. Plants should also not be placed too close to each other. In this case, in a few years they will begin to be mutually oppressed and this will not be reflected in the best way on fruiting. In order to plan a standard plot for a garden and a vegetable garden, we suggest using the data in Table 2.

Table 2. Norms of planting area for fruit and berry crops per family of four

AT total 400 m2 is allotted for a garden on the plot. This is quite enough for a family of 3-4 people. 4 apple trees are planted in the garden, 3-4 plums and cherries, 2-3 pears, apricots and cherries, 1-2 trees are enough. Of the shrubs, black currants are most planted - 5-7 bushes. You can plant 2 bushes of red currant, gooseberry, sea buckthorn. There is a place for 100-150 strawberry bushes. If desired, you can allocate a place for grapes, chokeberry, shadberry, dog rose. In order for fresh fruits and berries to be available for the longest possible period, trees and shrubs from different groups should be planted according to their maturity.

IN DAMP AREAS WITH HIGH GROUND WATER, it is recommended to plant fruit trees and shrubs on bulk mounds. They are created by digging up the soil, which is thrown to the middle of the selected place and mixed with manure, peat, humus.

As trees and shrubs grow, the ratio free space and plantings, as well as light and shadow on the site will change. Low-growing crops may be shaded if this is not taken into account in advance. On relief terrain, rows of fruit plants pass from one slope to another almost parallel to each other. On a hill, they converge slightly, and at the foot of the hills they widen slightly (Fig. 5).

Rice. 5. Arrangement of trees in a relief area

After determining the style of the garden and drawing up a plan, the marking of the site begins. To do this, use a tape measure, cord and eker (a stake with a wooden cross to align the corners of the rows and beds). First, zones are determined for the placement of trees and shrubs along the boundaries of the site. In the designated places, pegs are driven into the ground and, if necessary, pull the cord. Then they outline the line of the longest row, measure the distances between trees or shrubs on it, and pegs are also driven in in their place. The placement of plants along the edges of the row is determined using an eker (Fig. 6). At correct markup all rows of trees and shrubs in the garden are rectangular, parallel and perpendicular to each other.

Video: site planning

adult orchard

Many gardeners are interested in me how proper fit fruit trees, taking into account their compatibility, how to place fruit and berry crops on your site so that they grow well and bear fruit. Like a small area of ​​a garden neighborhood different varieties and fruit tree species will influence each other.

In this article I will try to reveal the basic principles of organizing an ideal garden on the site., where all trees and shrubs are built according to the principles of harmonious neighborhood and vertical arrangement.

No "water", just useful concise information for beginner gardeners. General recommendations are given, but particulars, for example, how to plant apple trees, can be understood without problems.

An example of the placement and planting of fruit trees on the site

Planting trees in the country is a very crucial moment, however, the laying of the garden is always preceded by a large preparatory work. The assessment and selection of sites is carried out taking into account the suitability of the soil for planting, and the mistakes made in the future are already difficult to correct.

Our gardeners most often do not have to decide on the choice of plots - we cultivate what we have given. But it is important to know their features and, if possible, try to correct the shortcomings.

Poor soil for planting fruit trees

Undesirable for the garden pulverized, strongly podzolized soils, waterlogged, stony and dense clayey. Swampy, closed pits and hollows are completely unsuitable for laying a garden.

Dangerous for fruit plants areas with high standing groundwater. In such areas, the plants are short-lived. The roots of fruit trees, having reached the water, die from lack of air, then the ends of the branches dry up, and the skeletal branches begin to die.

Placement and planting of fruit trees - their compatibility on a plot of 4 acres

Groundwater level when planting fruit trees

When planting apple and pear trees, the groundwater level should be no closer than 2 m from the soil surface. Cherries and plums, which have less deep roots, can be planted at a depth of groundwater no closer than 1.5 m, and currants, gooseberries, raspberries - in the presence of groundwater no closer than 1 m.

Useful and harmful trees - neighbors of the garden

It has been experimentally established that if tree species such as oak, maple, linden, bird cherry grow near the garden plot, then fruit plants will grow well. But if alder, sedge grasses, horsetails grow in the vicinity - all this indicates swampiness and high acidity of the soil.

Fruit tree compatibility - table

Compatibility table for planting fruit trees

Usually, various pome, stone, nut and berry crops grow in a small garden plot. Apples, pears, cherries, plums, raspberries, gooseberries, currants and strawberries are compatible with each other, which has allowed them to be grown together for centuries in a limited garden area.

Cushioned Landings - Error

A big mistake when placing fruit trees is dense plantings. For normal growth and fruiting, each fruit plant needs a sufficient amount of soil and air throughout its life. Therefore, it is initially important to distribute crops according to the area they occupy in adulthood.

Distance between seedlings when planting fruit trees

When establishing the distance between fruit seedlings during planting, it is necessary to reckon, first of all, with the width of the crown. The closing of the crowns of neighboring trees, and even more so the mutual interweaving of branches, worsens the illumination inside the crown.

As a result, premature death of overgrowing and fruiting branches inside the crown occurs. In addition, spraying, pruning and harvesting are significantly more difficult with closed, intertwined crowns.

Garden on the site: temporary compaction of plantings

It is possible to carry out temporary compacted plantings by placing currants, gooseberries, strawberries in the rows of young fruit trees. As the trees grow, the latter are removed from the aisles of the garden.

An excessive increase in the distances between berry bushes and fruit trees is also inappropriate, since the number of plants per unit area decreases, while the total yield of berries and fruits decreases.

Placement of fruit trees on the plot in height

Fruit crops have different winter hardiness, so their location must be arranged so that tall apple trees, pears grow on the north or northeast side of the site, do not shade other plants and protect them from strong winds.

In household plots where processing is carried out mainly manually, you can place an apple tree and a pear at a distance of 4-5 m from each other, and a cherry and a plum - at a distance of 2.5-4 m.

Pollination of fruit trees

In addition, the placement of varieties of each crop should be such that it promotes the best cross-pollination, or, as they say, the best cross-pollination. In fruit trees (apple trees, pears, plums, cherries), there are self-fertile and self-fertile varieties.

self fertile set fruits when pollinated by their own pollen, self-sterile- only when pollinated by pollen of another variety. Almost all of our fruit trees are self-sterile, and for normal pollination and fruiting, several different varieties must be planted.

Distance 20-25 meters

Observations have shown that between different varieties of fruit trees, which should pollinate each other, the distance should be no more than 20-25 meters. Keep this in mind when planting them. Pollen from one variety to another is carried by bumblebees and bees.

Cherries, sea buckthorn, raspberries give growth, so strawberries should not be planted in the immediate vicinity of them. In addition, raspberries and strawberries have a common pest - strawberry-raspberry weevil.

Lime on the ground - protection from ants. Grid on a tree - protection against rodents.

Proper placement of fruit trees on the site

Often a gardener has a question, how much and where to plant plants of a particular breed? Placing plants on the site is a personal matter for everyone. Most garden plots are of consumer importance, that is, they receive a variety of garden products to meet the family's needs for berries and fruits.

Some gardeners consciously prioritize one or another crop, such as strawberries, and receive a crop that exceeds their own needs for sale.

There are gardeners who are interested not just in the harvest of fruits, but in the cultivation of some rare breeds and varieties grown in an unusual way, such as grapes, walnut and etc.

How and when to plant fruit trees

Fruit trees have a long life. Mistakes made when choosing a place and soil for fruit trees appear over many years and, as a rule, are difficult to correct.

When choosing a site for a garden, consider terrain, soil conditions, groundwater level and the presence of perched water. In the conditions of Central Russia in adverse winters, even relatively winter-hardy varieties apple trees often freeze.

The results of overwintering to a large extent depend on the characteristics of the location of the garden.

AT winter period Air becomes heavier as it cools. On the slopes, it flows down. On flat ground, the air has nowhere to drain and it cools at night. In low places (closed valleys, depressions, cavities, "saucers") not only there is no outflow of cold air, but, on the contrary, additional cold air flows into them. cold air from the areas above.

Production experience shows that apple trees grow well and bear fruit on soils that provide free penetration of roots to a depth of at least 60-90 cm. Therefore, when choosing soil for a garden, attention should be paid to both the topsoil and underlying soils.

What soils are suitable

In the conditions of the Middle Belt, the most suitable for fruit trees are soddy-podzolic soils that develop on light loams and cohesive sandy loams, underlain at a depth of about 1 m by waterproof moraine loam.

Waterlogged soils and all soils with a high level of groundwater, or with long perched water in the spring months, are of little use for apple trees and other tree fruit species.

Soil cultivation methods

However, the cultivation of fruit crops on such soils is also possible with appropriate cultivation and microreclamation. The oldest and most common methods of cultivating soils are the construction of ramparts, the creation of hills, the use of ridges, the drainage of soils with open ditches, etc.

Shafts and hills are created in order to raise the root system of cultivated plants as high as possible above the groundwater level. With this method, as with no other, the soil is well warmed up and aerated, which increases its microbiological activity, and hence fertility.

Shafts are arranged in various widths - from 2.5 to 4 m. The height is also different and depends on the level of groundwater and the degree of waterlogging of the soil. Most often, it is 0.6-0.9 m. It is possible to arrange ramparts from existing soil, as well as from imported soil. The size of the shaft depends on the groundwater level in June. The upper edge of the shaft should rise above this level by 1.5-2 m.

A more acceptable way is to grow fruit crops on the hills

Hills are arranged in waterlogged places from the imported mineral soil of the humus horizon. The height of the mound should be 0.9-1 m, the width or diameter in the upper part is 0.5-0.6 m, in the lower part - 2.5-3 m. The larger the mound, the better, because as the garden grows the hill has to be enlarged.

Planting fruit trees in permanent beds

On excessively moist household plots, fruit trees are widely planted on permanent ridges up to 4 m wide. Excess moisture flows from the ridges into the furrows, and from the furrows into the ditches. The ridges are better warmed by the sun. Fruit trees should be planted in small holes equal to the size of the root system of the planted tree.

Soil drainage by open ditches

can also be used in the cultivation of fruit and berry crops. The most common and reliable way drainage of waterlogged soils - closed drainage from pottery pipes. But the high cost of this method does not allow it to be widely used in personal plots.

Benefits of planting trees on ramparts

The study and comparison of the root system of apple trees showed that the mass of roots, the zone of their distribution was significantly larger in trees on shafts than on a flat surface. A powerful root system ensures good crown growth and fruiting of trees.

Autumn planting of fruit trees on the site

Preplant soil preparation

Optimal conditions for the growth and development of fruit trees are created on soils rich in organic matter, with high moisture capacity and good gas exchange. It is very important not only to choose the appropriate site for the garden, but also to properly prepare the soil on it.

It is possible to cultivate the soil before planting fruit trees in future ordinary strips with a width of approximately 1.5-2 m. Organic fertilizers (manure, compost) are immediately applied to the entire area at the rate of 0.8-1 tons per hundred square meters.

In areas where continuous plowing is carried out with manure incorporation, this is impossible. Large landing pits are dug here (up to 1-1.5 m in diameter, up to 80 cm deep). Then the pits are approximately three-quarters filled with the upper, more fertile layer of soil.

Soddy soil is taken first from the edges of the pit, and then from the row spacing. At the bottom of the pit, 50-100 g of the active substance of phosphate fertilizers, 10-15 kg of humus or peat compost are added. In any case, fertilizers are well mixed with the soil.

When introducing peat into the pits it must be remembered that peat passes water through it very slowly and poorly. Therefore, if dry peat is poured into the pit, it will remain dry for a long time, sometimes years, when watered from above. So it is necessary to bring into the pits either already sufficiently moist peat, or water the peat in the pit even before planting trees and be sure to shovel it for uniform moisture.

Planting seedlings

The earlier the seedlings are dug up in the fall, the longer will be the period favorable for the new formation of roots when the aerial parts are at rest. However, digging up seedlings too early is not good, since by this time the tree will not accumulate reserves, and it will not finish maturing tissues.

Unripened fabrics retain water much worse and suffer greatly from freezing and drying. Therefore, seedlings should be dug out in the fall as soon as the maturation of the aerial parts ends.

Late autumn planting of an apple tree, less than 20-30 days before a strong drop in soil temperature, that is, later than October 15-20, gives poor results. The consequences of winter damage to late transplanted trees can be observed in plants even during subsequent years (worse growth, late fruiting).

Transplantation of mature trees

With such a transplant, it is important to ensure a sufficiently tight fit of the soil to the roots of the transplanted trees. Usually, the developing roots and small roots of the plant push the soil particles apart, coming into close contact with them.

In transplanted trees, small "lobes" are not preserved. The tree's need for water at this time is especially great. Careless planting often leaves air-filled voids between the main skeletal roots, causing the roots to become moldy.

Landing is convenient for two, when one holds the tree, and the second gives the earth, which the planter carefully stuffs under the roots and between them. After the earth is filled between the roots, the planter gets into the pit and tramples down the earth thrown by the second worker with his feet.

At first, the tree has to be lightly held by hand. In order to avoid breaking the roots, the earth is trampled from the edges of the pit to its middle (the heels should be directed to the edges of the pit, and the worker should be facing the tree all the time).

The compaction must be such that the planted tree cannot be pulled out even with some force.

It is also necessary to ensure proper planting depth

Too shallow planting leads to the exposure of the roots after the soil settles and to their drying. If planted too deep, especially in heavy, clayey, poorly ventilated soils, the trees will also suffer and grow poorly.

The tree must be planted at such a depth that, after precipitation, its root collar coincides with the soil surface. The root neck of a tree is the place where the trunk passes into the root. You can determine it by changing the brown color of the trunk, which has greenish tones in its composition, into an orange-yellow color of the root.

When landing, remember that the main skeletal roots will thicken greatly in the future. If you leave them bundled, and even more so twisted, intertwined, they will further interfere with each other. To avoid this, the roots must be straightened when planting.

In very strong winds, especially after heavy rains or watering, transplanted trees may fall under the weight of the crown. The larger the transplanted plants, the higher the risk. Therefore, when transplanting fruit trees older than two years old, a stake is firmly driven into the bottom of the pit and a tree is tied to it.

When planting, high soil moisture is required

If the soil is moistened to a great depth and the trees are transplanted in rainy weather, they do not need to be watered. Pour water when watering should be closer to the edges of the pit to avoid scours at the base of the tree. When the water is completely absorbed into the soil, holes are made around the trees in case of further watering.

The level of groundwater occurrence has a great influence on the choice of horticultural crops. If they are closer than 2 m, then this place is unsuitable for apple trees on vigorous rootstocks and pears. Cherry, plum and apple trees on dwarf rootstocks feel satisfactorily when the water level is no closer than 1.5 m, berry bushes - up to 1 m.

If the water reaches 0.5 m, then only garden strawberries can be grown. If the water is close, but you still want to have fruit trees, then you can plant them on ridges or mounds.

In order to make the most of solar heat, longline plantings of horticultural crops are recommended: in the south of the site - low strawberries, then currants and gooseberries, then stone fruits; in the north - the tallest: apple and pear.

At the southern walls, where the plants receive additional heat, which is reflected by the wall, the most heat-loving plants are planted - grapes, cherries, apricots. Dessert varieties, in which the main thing is appearance, taste and aroma, also require the sunniest places.

Crown and trunk care

The trunk and main skeletal branches of the tree are nutrient conductors. They should evenly thicken and match each other. Their uniform thickening depends on the state of the cortex. A diseased, rough bark compresses the conductive vessels, which prevents the supply of nutrients from the leaves to the roots and vice versa. The layer of dead bark makes it difficult for cambial cells to divide. In addition, dead bark is a haven for pests.

Dead bark, mosses and lichens are removed from the stem and main skeletal branches in autumn, better in cloudy weather. Metal scrapers and wire brushes are used for cleaning. On young trees, boles and bases of skeletal branches are rubbed with coarse burlap or straw bundles.

Before cleaning, a film is laid under the tree

The bark is first cleaned with scrapers, and then with brushes. After cleaning, the bark, mosses and lichens are burned, and the stem and crown bases are whitened with lime mortar (1.5-2 kg of lime, 0.5 kg of clay and a little mullein are taken for 1 bucket of water). When whitewashing, special attention should be paid to the places where the skeletal branches leave the bole, where pests usually hibernate and there are foci of fungal diseases.

Fertilizer for young fruit trees

In the first years after planting, the trees either do not produce fruit at all, or produce few of them. At this time, the crown of the tree is laid. The gardener's attention should be directed to ensuring good shoot growth. It is desirable that a powerful crown be formed in the shortest possible time. During this period, special attention should be paid to good (but not excessive) nutrition.

Enrichment of the soil with minerals

There are a number of methods for enriching the soil with phosphorus, potassium, and organic matter. First, the top layers of the soil are filled with nutrients trunk circle (around a tree) with a radius of 2 m.

Phosphorus, potash and organic fertilizers are applied in increased quantities along it. This work must be completed quickly - in three or four years. During this period, it is desirable to bring the potassium content up to 15 mg on heavy soil, up to 12 mg on medium soil, and up to 8 mg per 100 g of soil on light soil. The amount of available phosphorus on all soils is up to 12-15 mg. These figures are approximate.

The amount of fertilizer needed would be better set depending on the initial fertility of the soil. The less one or another nutrient is contained in it, the more it is necessary to make the corresponding fertilizer. And vice versa. If there is no soil analysis data, it can be recommended to make 15-20 g / sq.m of the active substance of phosphorus and potassium, i.e. 50-70 g / sq.m of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium chloride.

If there is only fruit and berry or some other ready-made mixture, it contribute at the rate of 250 g / sq.m. In addition to mineral fertilizer, it is necessary to give organic - 4-5 kg/sq.m. When applying organic fertilizer, the dose of potassium is reduced by one third. It would be better to compost mineral fertilizers (or, in extreme cases, only mix) with organic ones.

Fertilizer is applied annually for digging in the fall

When the top layer is enriched with phosphorus and potassium (approximately in the fourth year), the site in this place is deeply (by 22-25 cm) dug up. In order to damage the roots less, when digging, the shovel is placed along the radius of the circle, and not across.

The upper layer filled with fertilizer should be placed down, where the roots of the tree will then develop, and the lower (poor) layer up. In the future, the inverted lower layer will not be difficult to enrich with nutrients by applying fertilizer in the usual doses - 6-7 g / sq.m of the active substance.

Some amateur gardeners improve the soil around a tree in one go:

first, fertilizers are applied continuously, as indicated above, then around the tree (a little further than the periphery of the crown) they dig a groove 35-40 cm deep and about 50 cm wide. This is done completely (in a ring) or intermittently so as not to disturb part of the roots.

The grooves are covered with soil from the arable layer, taking the missing soil from the row spacing. Phosphorus, potash, and organic fertilizers are added to the soil intended for backfilling the groove. The amount of phosphorus, potassium and organic fertilizers per 1 sq.m increase by 2-2.5 times.

Plot layout 24 x 40 m from Ideas for Your Home

Site plan 25 x 40 meters

Video tips for garden planning and planting fruit trees

In conclusion, I propose to look at the advice of an expert at the Greensad garden center on planning a garden plot.

With the acquisition of a land plot, the owner has to deal with the zoning of the territory. Now there are many specialists in this field who, with the help of professional techniques, can create beauty. The layout of the garden can be done independently, if you familiarize yourself with the features of this work. After all, on the site you can plant not only trees, but also shrubs, vegetables. More information about the design of the territory is described in the article.

Training

The garden should be located in the open sun on a site with a high presence of groundwater. It should not be laid in a lowland, where cold air and water will flow during the spring flood.

After an external inspection of the territory, the following work should be planned:

  1. Cleaning the territory from old stumps, wild shrubs, stones, other debris.
  2. The area needs to be dug deep.
  3. Needs to be watered for weeds to emerge. After germination, you need to perform deep cultivation and level the site.
  4. In parallel, you need to give the soil to the laboratory to determine the physical condition and type of soil, chemical composition. This is required for further care: use of fertilizers, irrigation, other agrotechnical procedures.
  5. Based on the results of the analysis, it is necessary to introduce the necessary doses of fertilizers and other ameliorative components for autumn processing. Without these data, fertilizer is undesirable.

What is important to consider before planning?

Before planning a garden, you need to take into account some of the nuances:

  1. What area can be allocated for an orchard. Trees with spreading crowns need a distance of 4 square meters. m.
  2. Terrain relief. A flat area or a gentle slope is suitable for an orchard, there is cold air in the pits, a lot of moisture, these areas are unfavorable for fruit trees.
  3. Analysis of soils of the territory. Fruit crops have a strong root system, fertile soils are needed to ensure good food. Stony, clay, sandy soil is not suitable for the garden area. The proximity of groundwater has a negative effect on the growth of trees.
  4. The presence of light and heat. Fruit trees need the necessary amount of light and heat, as their growth slows down in the shade. Terrain with strong winds will not be entirely suitable, as it interferes with proper pollination, dries out the ground, damages crops and breaks branches. Partial protection against it is a high fence or green spaces.

Layout features

Garden planning begins with paper diagrams. If there is a house on the territory, planning should be carried out from it. A diagram of the site, the contours of the object and other buildings, as well as places where there are trees are applied to the paper. This area is protected by trees planted around.

If the land is not built up, a site for building a house is applied to the scheme. The layout of the garden suggests the presence of a front garden. Housing should face the street, in front of it is located part of the land for the front garden. Its size is determined by the area of ​​the territory.

On a small front garden, you need to plant flowers, berry bushes, on a large one - decorative and fruit trees, flowers. Large fruit plants - apple trees, pears - it is advisable to plant in the northeastern part. Between them should be cherries and plums.

Plan

In order to have the correct layout of the garden and vegetable garden, you need to create sketches of the site. In the plan, you need to indicate the buildings, the approximate location of the remaining objects. It is necessary to mark the holes for planting bushes and trees. They should be planted at a distance so that they do not shade as they grow.

Closely spaced bushes and trees do not grow well, moreover, this leads to diseases of horticultural crops. Fruit trees have a powerful root system, it should develop freely. If there are wild shrubs, stumps that should be uprooted on the territory, all work must be done and the wood residues must be burned. The ash must be left in a dry place, it will be required to obtain fertile beds.

The layout of the garden on the site should be such that the trees do not obscure neighboring plots. To date, beds of the original form are fashionable, for example, a pizza garden. In this case, the rest are located in the center from the round beds in the center. Raspberries, blackberries, berry bushes that bear fruit and shade are planted near the boundaries of the site.

What crops to choose?

When planning an orchard, you need to decide on the types of plants. It is necessary to choose trees and shrubs that grow well and bear fruit in the area. For the middle lane, pears, apple trees, plums, cherry plums, and cherries are selected. Cherries and apricots grow better in warm regions.

From berry bushes, you can choose currants, gooseberries, blackberries, raspberries. Planning a garden on 10 acres is much easier than with a large area. With a small area, it is preferable to place shrubs around the perimeter. On the vegetable beds it is necessary to plant crops that grow close to each other: cabbage, cucumbers, peas.

Popular types of layout

The garden planning project will create original plot. There are currently 4 designs available:

  1. Rectilinear. This option is not only beautiful, but also simple. This location allows you to restore order in the area. This type of design allows you to get the effect of reducing space.
  2. Circular arrangement. To get it, you need skills in landscape design. This design will allow you to create an orchard and flower beds, and it is more difficult to use it for a vegetable garden.
  3. Diagonal. In this way, you can arrange a garden plot of 15 acres and above. With the help of a diagonal orientation, a visual volume is obtained. It allows you to arrange the location of different areas.
  4. Creative option. There are no specific rules here. Usually it contains elements of other types. It is used for areas with a special configuration.

Each layout option is original in its own way. Before implementing the project, it is necessary to draw it on paper. If land is purchased with some buildings and plantings that you do not want to remove, then they must be marked first.

Communications

The layout of a personal plot, garden, orchard is not complete without communications equipment. Systems facilitate the operation and maintenance of the territory, improve functionality. They will create additional conditions.

To organize a garden plot, drainage systems, sewerage, organization of the passage of a gas pipeline and water supply are required. A well, septic tank or well is also required. These engineering objects must be located at a sufficient distance from each other. There must be a street lighting system. Electrical wiring must be carried out at a depth of 70 cm. Laying should be done before planting plants and arranging garden paths.

Recreation area

If the territory has been divided into an orchard, it is necessary to determine a place to rest. Even in a small area, you can place a modest, but harmoniously inscribed gazebo. It should be beautiful and comfortable. In large areas, it will be possible to create a summer kitchen, a swimming pool, an observation deck and so on.

The list of ideas is limited only by the possibilities of the area and the desire of the owner. But in any case, the recreation area should be in a comfortable place, not interfere with other areas. It is preferable to remove it from economic blocks and communications.

Planting hole preparation

The layout of a small garden and a large plot requires proper planting. And this must be done according to certain rules. The garden should be planted in the fall. It is necessary to dig a planting hole according to the scheme, prepare fertilizers for the soil.

The pit will be of approximate size, since the final version is set on the size of the root system, which depends on the age of the seedling. The approximate size of the pit is 60x60 if the seedlings are 2-year-old, and for 3-year-olds it can be increased to 70x80 cm.

Soil preparation

Near each pit, mix the top layer of earth with humus and peat. In the spring, before planting, 1 glass of wood ash and slaked lime and 200 g of nitrophoska are added to the mixture. Everything should be thoroughly mixed. Seedlings must be purchased from trusted manufacturers.

Acquisition and preparation of seedlings

Landing must be done in the spring. During the growing season, seedlings grow stronger. Young trees get used to a new location during the warm period. You should not buy seedlings from unfamiliar sellers. It is advisable to do this in farms that are engaged in their cultivation. Then it is more likely that a zoned variety will be purchased. It is necessary to inspect the acquired seedling. You should not take it if it has dry roots, a crooked trunk, cracks in the bark.

Landing

There are rules for planting seedlings. 1-2 days before that, they must be soaked in horse wine or another growth stimulant. Then you need to prepare a container of clay talker with root, planriz or phytosporin. Other biofungicides used for tank mixes are also suitable.

2-3 weeks before planting, you need to fill up part of the soil mixture with a cone in a hole. During this time, the cone will settle and the seedling will be correctly placed in the hole. It must be dipped into a mash, inserted into a hole, straightened the root so that there are no creases. 2/3 of the hole is filled with soil mixture.

It is necessary to fill a bucket of water. After soaking, you need to fill in the rest of the soil mixture or soil. You should drive a stake and fix the seedling with a figure eight to the support. A loose seedling will break off small roots.

The subtleties of landing

During planting, you need to check the correct depth of the root neck. With deepening, the tree dries out after 5-10 years. With light sandy soils, it is advisable to deepen the root neck a little into the soil - by 10 cm. For seedlings that form roots or shoots, deepening will not interfere with the proper development of the plant. Such cultures quickly rebuild the root system.

In self-rooted seedlings, the root collar should be in the area of ​​the planting hole or 2-3 cm higher. And in the vaccinated, the grafting site is 4-8 cm above the root collar. Beginning gardeners often confuse these places. It is necessary to pay attention to planting, because with errors the tree quickly dies.

If the root neck is correctly determined and the seedling is planted so that it is 4-5 cm above the soil, then the tree is planted correctly. It is necessary to compact the kidney near the landing. At a distance from the trunk with a radius of 30-50 cm, you need to make a roller 5-7 cm high and pour 2-3 buckets of water.

The root neck should be 2-3 cm higher than the soil. If necessary, you can add soil after watering and mulch with a layer of fine mulch. If live seedlings are purchased and the planting is carried out correctly, then after 2-3 weeks the first leaves will appear.

Definition of the root collar

  1. In a young seedling with a damp cloth, you need to wipe the lower region of the trunk and root. The root neck can be established by the transition from greenish to light brown.
  2. In adult seedlings (3-4 years old), you need to wipe the lower area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe trunk with a wet cloth and, after drying, scrape off the bark with a knife. If in the expansion area the shade of the subcortical layer is green, then this is the stem, and if it is yellowish, then the root part. The place of color transition is considered to be the root collar.
  3. In some seedlings, the place of departure from the trunk of the upper lateral roots is clearly visible. This will be the root collar.

What is forbidden to do when landing?

  1. Apply semi-rotted manure, only humus with soil.
  2. Water often a small amount water. This dries out the soil.
  3. Use cold water for irrigation.
  4. Fertilize the plants the first year.
  5. After planting, mulch the near-stem area.

What do you need to do when landing?

  1. Seedlings should be whitewashed with a solution of chalk with clay, biological products from diseases and pests.
  2. Insulate the target with burlap, paper, lutrasil.
  3. The netting will protect the trunk from rodents.
  4. After a snowfall, trample down the snow near the trunk.

Thus, the layout of the garden involves competent zoning of the territory. It should have trees, shrubs, an area for recreation. It is also necessary to properly plant plants in compliance with all norms. Then it will turn out beautiful garden created according to the rules of landscape design.

The cost of good seedlings is incomparable with the mental and material costs that arise in the event of the death or poor growth of young plants.

Therefore, before planting trees with your own hands, it is important to learn a few rules regarding which seedlings to choose, when and how to plant pears, cherries and apples on suburban area.

How to choose seedlings of fruit trees before planting?

In order for the trees to grow quickly, not get sick and bear abundant fruit in the future, you need to buy seedlings in specialized outlets or in nurseries. Zoned seedlings that were grown in the same area where they are going to be planted will take root much faster than their counterparts brought from coastal regions.

What to look for when choosing fruit tree seedlings for planting

Groundwater at their summer cottage

  • for vigorous trees with long roots, the depth of groundwater in the territory should not exceed 3 meters;
  • semi-dwarf ones are planted in the ground, the underground waters of which rise no higher than 2.5 m;
  • saplings of dwarf trees, with a superficial root system, need a plot with groundwater located at a level above 1.5 meters.

Soil quality

Picking a landing site at random is a mistake. Seedlings will develop poorly and will enter fruiting time with a great delay. If we talk about the addictions of fruit plants to soil conditions, then apple trees develop well on sod-podzolic, forest gray and chernozem soils of light composition with a neutral reaction. Pears love moist slightly podzolized soils, sandy loam and loam. Cherries are medium and light loams.

illumination

Fruit trees need good lighting. The more sun the plants receive, the larger and sweeter their fruits will be. Based on this, seedlings are planted on the southern (less often southwestern) side of the site, in a place protected from the winds.

The area of ​​the land

The area allotted for planting apple, pear and cherry trees is chosen after calculating the sum of the heights of all trees. That is, if they grow in the garden different cultures 5 m, 4 m and 3 m high, then they need to be planted from each other at a distance of 6-9 m. branches, interfering, fraying and shading each other.

Age of tree seedlings

The best option for planting will be a tree that is not yet 2 years old. How to determine the age of a seedling? The absence of branches on the trunk will help to identify such a seedling. Gardeners do not recommend purchasing plants with branches, overdried roots, with growths on the stem and leaves.

Grafted and own-rooted seedlings

Ask the seller what kind of seedling it is - grafted or own-rooted! Pears and apple trees must be grafted. Plums and cherries are much rarer.

How to tell if a seedling is grafted or not? If the inoculation was done by the kidney, then the stem of the seedling will be slightly twisted (another sign - look for a noticeable fine on the trunk). There are no signs of vaccination - it means that they are trying to deceive you!

The best option is to buy seedlings in a container or with an earthen clod that completely covers the root system. So that the roots (the standard of tree quality) of freshly dug up plants do not dry out, they are planted within a couple of days after purchase. Fruit trees in containers are planted at any time convenient for the summer resident - from late autumn to early spring.

When should a tree be planted?

The timing of planting fruit trees is determined taking into account the biological characteristics of the variety and climatic conditions. Apple and pear trees are planted in two terms: in early autumn and early spring.

Planting trees in spring

Spring planting begins from the moment the last snow melts and ends ten days before bud break. For planting apple trees, cherries and pears, a natural product is used as fertilizer - fresh manure. They put him in the bottom of the pit. When the seedlings get used to it a little (after about a week), growth activators are introduced into the soil.

Planting trees in autumn

The survival of fruit trees planted during the rainy season (the time of biological dormancy of plants) is almost 100%. Loose, moisture-saturated soil and relatively warm air temperatures contribute to the stable survival of fruit seedlings. It is interesting that when plants are planted in the fall before the onset of frost, the seedlings, before they go into hibernation and stop growing, have time to give young roots. The roots in a snowless winter will be protected by a layer of organic matter and mulch. The material was prepared for the site www.site

Planting trees in winter

Winter plantings are relevant when we are talking about the big ones. Young seedlings of fruit trees are not planted in frozen ground.

Planting trees in summer

During the hot period, extensive evaporation occurs through the leaves. Short roots lack moisture and do not grow. Seedlings planted in summer are doomed to death.

How to plant trees on the site?

Step-by-step instructions for self-planting seedlings - recommendations for beginners

1. Soil preparation

The laying of the future orchard begins with the preparation of the soil. The site is cleared of weeds mechanically or by means of herbicides. Preplant cultivation is carried out - they plow deeply and fill the soil with mineral and organic fertilizers.

2. Preparation of holes for planting trees

If the planting of fruit trees is planned in the spring, then the soil and pits begin to be prepared in the fall. To do this, a square-shaped pit 50-70 cm deep is dug under each seedling, with sides from 1 to 1.5 m. Cut branches, old leaves, compost, tops and so on are laid in the pit. From above they are covered with earth and left to rot until spring planting.

For autumn planting pits are prepared in a month. At the bottom, for good drainage, put crushed stone, a layer of broken bricks and coarse river sand. Then the planting pit is filled with rotted manure, peat and complex mineral fertilizers using a layer-by-layer method. From above, fertilizers are covered with soil mixed with humus, 5-10 cm thick.

Soil is poured into the pit in the form of a cone.

3. Planting seedlings in prepared soil

After the soil has settled, a stable wooden stake is hammered into the center of the pit. A reliable support will not allow the wind to shake the young plant and will not allow the formation of voids between the soil and the roots.

The day before planting, broken twigs and roots are removed from the seedlings, they are renewed, slightly pruned to healthy tissues with secateurs.

Planting Trees - Rule #1

The root neck of the seedling should be above the soil level. Significant deepening of the plant stem into the soil leads to decay of the bark and further death.

It is quite easy to determine the root neck on the trunk - this is the border of the transition of the bark of a tree from greenish to milky brown.

When landing, the top of the earthen cone should rest against the base of the trunk. The roots are carefully straightened along the slope and covered with soil, focusing on the root collar. It should be 5-6 cm above the ground surface.

While falling asleep with black soil, the tree is shaken a little so that the voids between the roots are filled with soil. Otherwise, they may dry out.

Near the trunk, the earth is slightly compacted with a foot and watered with a weak stream of water with the expectation of 3 buckets per tree. Waiting for the soil to settle a little. Water again and compact well.

After watering, the roots may stick out a little from the ground. They will go into the ground in a few days.


Planting a tree from a container


Planting a seedling with an earthen clod


Tree care after planting

In the first two years of life, young trees require a lot of attention. Moderate regular watering and top dressing, loosening and weed control are important. In dry times, the soil must be carefully loosened after each watering or occasional rain.

You can not ignore the mulching of trunk circles. Rotting mulch (cut grass of cereals) performs several useful functions at once:

  • provides good aeration of the root system;
  • protects the earth from drying out;
  • does not allow weeds to germinate;
  • protects against freezing of the soil in winter;
  • provides seedlings with organic nutrients;
  • prevents the appearance of soil crust.

Excessively moist soils do not mulch.

For the winter, the trees are insulated by tying the trunk with burlap or coniferous branches.

The first pruning of young trees is carried out in the second year of life.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees with your own hands - tips

How to plant an apple tree?

Early varieties of some apple trees may bloom in the first spring. But they are not yet developed enough to form a full-fledged crop in the fall. Therefore, for good survival, the buds are cut off even before they bloom. In the second year (provided that the plant develops without problems), a couple of dozen flowers are left on the tree.

Among the most easily adaptable varieties of apple trees, there are: Moscow Pear, Antonovka Ordinary, Summer Striped, Cowberry, Dessert Isaeva, Gift to Grafsky, Cinnamon New. Good varieties: "Chinese Kerr", "Arkadik", "Oval", "Medunitsa" and "Candy".

How to plant a pear?

Most pear species known to summer residents do not impose special requirements on exposure and soil composition. But it is better to take root and grow pear trees rich in humus, loose soils and well-lit areas. Young plants do not tolerate drought. In the early years, they need to be watered abundantly and often. Pears begin to bear fruit at the age of 3-8 years.

As a result of hybridization of species, specialists in the field of breeding have bred a huge number of interesting varieties. Among the popular ones: "Pear Klapp's Favorite", "Pear Lada", "Nectar Pear", "Cathedral", "Allegro", "Dibrovskaya", "Beauty Chernenko".

How to plant cherries

The fruiting of cherries largely depends on the place of planting on the site. Incorrect selection leads to poor growth and poor yields. The root system of cherries, located close to the surface, is sensitive to drought. Therefore, loosening after watering is done very carefully.

The gardens of our country are dominated by local varieties, winter-hardy: "Oktava", "Purple", "Kent", "Shubinka", "Rossoshskaya black", "Rusinka", "Vole", "Youth", "Robin", "Prima" , "Turgenevka", "Lyubskaya", "Zhukovskaya", "Generous".

Planting a tree with your own hands - video

How to grow a tree from a seed?

Well-ripened seeds are washed and soaked in a stimulating solution for three days (the water is changed daily). Plant immediately in the fall. For planting in the spring, they are stored in the freezer for several months for the purpose of stratification.

Keep in mind that trees grown with your own hands from seeds grow very tall. Indeed, unlike the cultivated fruit species that all nurseries offer, they are not initially grafted onto a dwarf stock.

Where to start building your garden? How to properly arrange trees and shrubs in the country?

The garden has always been considered wonderful decoration any home. And one of the wonders of the world - the Hanging Gardens of Babylon - was a truly magnificent and unique creation. These gardens were maintained around the clock by several thousand slaves. Now gardens are planted mainly in order to provide themselves with berries and fruits for the winter. It is very important to plan the garden correctly, since on a small plot of land you want to place as many various trees, shrubs, berries, etc. as possible. The yield of fruit trees depends on various factors, and therefore, when placing trees on a plot, it is necessary to take into account not only natural conditions, but also the biological characteristics of each type of fruit crop.

❧ The Mesopotamian king Gilgamesh of Uruk (early 3rd millennium BC) was famous for his gardens. The courtyards were shady and had many flower beds. Fruit trees in the gardens abounded with a variety of exotic varieties. Surrounded date palms pools were located. Bulls, lions, ostriches and monkeys were bred in enclosures in the far corners of the gardens.

So, for example, when placing trees on a garden plot, it must be remembered that different cultures present different requirements to the light. Exist general rule for planning plants in their summer cottage. Plant height should increase from south to north. In other words, vegetables and strawberries should be planted in the southernmost part of the site, and apple and pear trees should be planted in the northern part. In the middle of the site, medium-sized breeds are placed, such as cherry, plum, as well as a variety of berry bushes.

In addition, when planting various fruit crops in your summer cottage, you should pay attention to the fact that in the future, when the trees grow, they do not shade neighboring garden plots. When planting trees on the site, follow certain rules - for example, the distance from the trees to the boundaries of the site should be at least 3 m. And at a distance of 1 m from the border (fence), you can plant several bushes of raspberries, currants or gooseberries. These cultures feel good even with partial shading.

Among other things, you need to place plantings on the site in such a way that they do not interfere with the movement of air. If the area is too densely forested, then this will interfere with the outflow of cold air, which in turn will lead to difficult wintering conditions for trees. It often happens that in densely planted areas, trees and shrubs die from frost even in not the most frosty winters.

There are two main styles of garden planning: regular (or geometric) and landscape (or natural).

With regular garden planning, plantings are placed symmetrically with respect to the main axis of the composition, while the straightness of rows and paths is also observed, and the same distances between trees of the same species are maintained. In this case, you can choose a scheme for planting fruit trees, both square and rectangular, or even place trees in a checkerboard pattern on the site. Trees planted in a checkerboard pattern make good use of sunlight. If the site is located on a slope, then the f direction of the rows should be done across the slope. The square scheme is suitable for areas that have a square or almost square shape. Rectangular placement is suitable for areas that have an oblong configuration. There is also a variation of the rectangular scheme. It is characterized by wide-row dense planting, and in contrast to the rectangular scheme, trees are planted more densely in rows, but a fairly large space is left between rows.

If you prefer natural style when the plants grow as they wish, then the second style of planting is suitable for you - landscape. Using this scheme, you can place plantings on your site in any way you want. Trees and plants arranged in a free-style yard make the yard more inviting. In addition, the use of landscape style provides for the widespread use of a variety of ornamental plants. Landscape style is very well suited for those areas that have natural bumps, small slopes and depressions, etc. All these features of the relief can be used to create an interesting landscape composition in your garden.

Thinking over what fruit trees you will plant on your site, you should pay special attention to the apple tree. In Russia, the apple tree is perhaps the main fruit crop, which is unpretentious to weather conditions and gives a rich harvest.

When choosing varieties of fruit trees, one should take into account the fact that a certain variety of any species can be grown on the site only on the condition that trees of other varieties grow in the neighborhood at a distance of no more than 50-70 m. Otherwise, pollination and fruit set will not occur in trees of the same variety.

When choosing berry crops, you can pay attention to berries such as garden strawberry, colloquially called strawberries, black, red and white currants, gooseberries, and raspberries. Strawberries are good because they reproduce easily and begin to bear fruit in the second year after planting. Currants, especially black currants, are very rich in vitamins, and therefore several bushes of this crop should grow in every garden plot. Raspberries also grow quite quickly, so if you want to get a crop of berries in the shortest possible time after breaking up the garden, then start with these crops. And if we talk about volumes (harvest), then the richest harvest is harvested from redcurrant and gooseberry bushes.

❧ Scientists have found that fruit trees that grew near heating mains develop faster and better, unlike trees of the same species and varieties that grow in other places. I wonder if it is possible to grow a garden that will produce a rich harvest in a short time if a root heating system is installed?

When planting a variety of berry crops on a garden plot, it should be remembered that they can be placed under trees only when the seedlings of fruit trees have just been planted and are still very small. As the trees grow, berry bushes should be removed from under them, as this makes pest and disease control more difficult. If any buildings are planned on the site, then it is better not to plant fruit trees or shrubs too close to the buildings. Over time, as crops grow, they can make it difficult to approach buildings, and even a low building will shade trees or shrubs, stunting their growth.

When planting fruit trees, pay attention to the fact that it is best to plant trees of each crop separately. This is necessary to optimize the control of pests and plant diseases. Since it sometimes happens that the timing of spraying trees of one species coincides with the fruiting time of other species. Considering that on the garden plot all work on the care of fruit trees is carried out manually, it is possible to leave the aisles not very wide.

Planning a garden personal plot, you should think carefully about all the points associated with planting fruit shrubs and especially trees, because the garden is laid once and for many years.

When planning a garden, consider the following:

❧ what species of fruit bushes and trees are suitable for a given climatic region;

❧ In order not to make a mistake with plant varieties, it is best to estimate their yield in advance. This will help determine the number of seedlings;

❧ If you want to get rich harvests, you need to take into account that the placement of nearby trees of different varieties of the same ripening period will ensure cross-pollination during the flowering period, which in turn will serve as a guarantee good harvest further;

❧ it is best to find out information about the compatibility of different varieties of fruit trees and shrubs, since the proximity of some crops can lead to a decrease in yield;

❧ in order to avoid problems with the placement of trees on the site, you can first create a planting scheme on the plan. Draw a site plan on paper, cut out circles of the desired diameter from another sheet of paper, which will indicate shrubs and fruit trees. So, for example, an adult apple tree of the Antonovka variety has a crown diameter of 3 m on average. This means that when planting apple trees of this variety, it is necessary to calculate at what distance fruit trees of other species or shrubs can be planted from them;

❧ It is useful to know that, as a rule, a very good microclimate is created on the southwestern side of any building, which is expressed in long-term illumination and protection from cold winds. And this means that temperature regime here it will be the most optimal for heat-loving plants;

❧ if in your area groundwater lies close to the soil surface, then use this circumstance to your advantage. On a site with a close location of groundwater, you can plant shrubs or plant a garden on it;

❧ when planting a new garden in place of the old one, it is necessary to remember about crop rotation. If you plant a young apple tree in place of an uprooted one, then it will grow poorly.

The best option is to plan ahead for planting in the garden. But if, in addition to the garden, buildings are also planned on the site, then, of course, the garden should be laid out after the construction work is completed. Otherwise, the equipment will crush the newly planted trees and raze the strawberry plantation to the ground.