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How to get the bountiful harvest strawberries (garden strawberries). Tips for growing strawberries.

Everyone loves strawberries (and rightly - garden strawberries), as they are perhaps one of the most delicious berries. And therefore it is grown everywhere, constantly applying new technologies to increase productivity. To receive good harvest you need to follow some rules.

To begin with, you need to pick up a site without shadows with a southern slope of 1-3 degrees (strawberries love the sun). Also level ground water should not exceed 80 cm. The site must be protected from the cold northwest winds that prevail in our country.

Strawberries, like most other crops, produce the most bountiful harvest on neutral soil - pH should be 5.5 (optimal), a minimum of 5, and a maximum of 6.5. An elementary analysis can be carried out as follows: the soil must be mixed in rain (distilled) water in a ratio of 1: 3, and a litmus test should be lowered into the resulting suspension. Red means acidic, yellow slightly acidic, green neutral, and a shift towards the blue spectrum indicates that the soil is alkaline.

Unfortunately, such an analysis will not give a sufficiently specific idea of ​​​​acidity, since the litmus indicator shows only shades of colors, not numbers. Better with this task, special portable instruments for measuring acidity are able to cope. The pH tester is a digital display and a long probe that is lowered into the soaked soil or solution. The analysis should be carried out in different areas. If the device shows increased acidity, it is necessary to carry out liming of the soil in accordance with the degree of acidity.

It is clear that without fertilizers there can be no talk of high yields of strawberries. Before planting, it is necessary to make humus from manure with the calculation of 5 kg per square meter and then carefully plant it into the soil. Also, even before planting, it is necessary to apply nitrogen fertilizers - 40-50 grams per square meter, and the same amount during the growing season. But it is advisable to first conduct a preliminary analysis, otherwise, with an overdose of nitrogen fertilizers, the development of the plant will go to the tops, and you will not see high yields. Also, before planting, you need to add superphosphates and magnesium fertilizers: 50 g and 100 g per square meter, respectively. Before planting, you need to apply 50 g of potash fertilizers per square meter, and the same amount of double feeding (with water) during the flowering period. To reduce costs, fertilizers should be applied in ribbons at the sites of future ridges, or locally at planting sites. It is also worth noting that the best predecessor of strawberries is potatoes.

If you plant strawberries in August-September, then the plants will have time to take root and successfully overwinter. And if planting is done in the spring, then you will need to cut the flower stalk, and you will receive the harvest only after a year. If the peduncle is left, the plant will be severely depleted and may die next winter.

Strawberries are planted in pre-prepared holes in the ridge, which should be raised about 15 cm above the general soil level. Before planting, it is necessary to water the hole with water, the roots should be in an upright position, and the root neck, “heart” should be at the level of the soil. Too deep planting will lead to rotting of the "heart", too high planting and exposure of the roots are also harmful. If the budget allows, then lay peat washers under the root. And if you plant seedlings of "your own preparation", then keep in mind that only the first two "daughters" along the tendril from the main bush will become strong and fertile, the rest can be safely cut off and sent to compost.

You can plant strawberries either in one or two rows. In the first case, there should be 70 cm between the rows and 40 between the bushes, and in the second, the distance between the bushes in a double row should be 20 cm. After rains and irrigation, the earth near the bushes will settle, and therefore it will be necessary to carry out hilling.

After planting, it is necessary to water each plant with 0.5-1 l of water. And in the future, also focus on this norm. It is advisable to water with settled and warmed water, and not immediately with cold well or from a well. It is usually possible to irrigate with a drip irrigation system or from a hose, under the root. But sometimes, at least once every two weeks, in the absence of natural precipitation, it is necessary to carry out sprinkling, and at night. But you can not water with sprinkling during the flowering period. There are no uniform norms for the frequency of watering, the main thing is to make sure that the soil does not dry out, but does not get wet either. You should increase the intensity of watering (up to 3 liters per plant) during the pouring of berries, and then during the ripening (redness) period, you need to reduce watering, otherwise the strawberries may lose their taste. And after harvesting, re-saturate the plants with moisture.

To get berries in different periods, it is necessary to divide the site into quarters and plant an early, middle and late variety on them. You can apply another technique - place part of the beds in a more shaded area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden. Then the strawberries will keep up a couple of weeks later. There are also varieties that bear fruit twice: in spring and autumn. To increase the yield, you need to regularly trim the mustache, not allowing their length to increase by more than 8 cm, as they greatly deplete the plants. For mustache propagation, several mother bushes or old bushes growing on already depleted soil for several years in a row are used, intended for transplantation or removal.

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Tall blueberries will delight you with delicious juicy berries only when proper care. It is important to know how to plant blueberries in the country and properly care for them. She grows on acid peat and well-drained soils.

Choose seedlings with a closed root system. The phase of full fruiting begins from the age of 4, therefore, from a 3-year-old seedling, a good harvest can be expected already in the first summer after precipitation. The only disadvantage of such 3-5-year-olds is the high price.

First, try your hand at growing blueberries on inexpensive annual seedlings from a nursery in your area. Before planting blueberries, think carefully about where to place them. Choose a well-lit, protected from the piercing northern winds.

It is better not to plant blueberries under the canopy of trees. She is doesn't like shading. In addition, this tall plant, depending on the variety, grows up to 2 m in height, and its crown diameter is over 1.5 meters. Blueberries do not grow well in previously fertilized lands.

The ideal solution is to buy a special substrate for blueberries with a pH of 3.5-4.5. But you can organize excellent conditions for development and good fruiting on your own. To do this, you need to collect lowland black peat, mix it with the ground from coniferous forest and pine needles in a ratio of 2:1:1.

planting hole for blueberries 60X50 cm is needed, the bottom and walls are loosened. 50 grams of sulfur can be added to the soil mixture. It is needed to acidify the substrate. Instead, you can water the plant with a solution citric acid(three teaspoons per bucket of water).

Into the landing pit do not apply any fertilizer. Tall varieties blueberries should be planted at least 1 meter apart, preferably in checkerboard pattern.

How to plant blueberries from a container?

Watering is carried out as the topsoil dries, especially in the first year and during the laying of flower buds in July and August. Useful in hot summer spray with cold water.

Blueberries practically do not need fertilizers; in spring, you can fertilize 1-2 times with nitrogen fertilizer in a light concentration.

Many people love summer for the opportunity to go on vacation to the ends of the world, someone likes it for the warmth and sea breeze, and you love summer for strawberries! At first, you didn’t even feel the difference between store-bought strawberries and grown by your grandmother or mother in the garden in front of the house - it was very tasty, but always too small. The time has come, and you yourself have already decided to plant this berry on your site, harvest a rich harvest in order to feast on plenty and absolutely not worry about the presence of nitrates in it.

Spring is the most the best time for planting strawberry bushes, therefore, today we will discuss some of the features of growing a delicious berry, reveal the secrets of professionals to get a rich harvest and do not forget to report on the "pitfalls" that make it difficult to care for it.



Acquisition of several varieties of early, middle and late deadline ripening will allow you to enjoy your favorite taste from the beginning of June until late autumn with almost no interruption. Ask your neighbors in the country what varieties bear fruit well in your area. By the way, you need to be friends with your neighbors - as a novice gardener, they can give you not only valuable advice, but also hand over seedling bushes absolutely free of charge, as well as water the garden if you could not get to the dacha for a long time.

Strawberry cultivation and care

1. Choose a site for landing. The sunniest clearings on your site will suit strawberries - the longer the time it is in the sun, the sweeter the berries will be. The best predecessor for strawberries is potatoes. We refuse areas on the slopes, where the winds walk and moisture does not have time to soak into the soil, as well as those located in the lowland, where, on the contrary, water stagnates. Soil pH should be neutral.

2. We apply fertilizer. Humus and nitrogen fertilizers are best applied a few days before planting. Under each bush it will be good to lay a peat tablet.

3. We make out a bed. The height of the beds above ground level should be 10-15 cm for easy weeding and cleanliness of the berries when harvesting.

4. Planting strawberries. In the garden, it is necessary to make holes for each bush, the distance between them is about 30 centimeters. Pour water into each hole and plant the roots vertically, lightly sprinkling them with earth. Watch the core of the bush - you can not fill it with earth or dig in. Pour the soil with water between the beds at the rate of at least 1 liter per bush, periodically loosen the soil and wait for the harvest.



Underwater rocks:

Spring planting of strawberries requires the mandatory removal of flower stalks in the year of planting, since she needs strength to form a good bush;

Strawberries do not like weeds - you will have to ensure their timely removal or plant bushes on spandbond (non-woven covering material);

Mustaches grow on strawberry bushes at great speed - you have to constantly cut them off;

Birds and slugs can harvest for you - the most cunning and nimble will be able to feast on the sweet berry, so you have to try to be the first in time.

Selection of planting material




It is better to buy seedlings, since growing strawberries with seeds is a rather troublesome and time-consuming process, and you will receive a harvest at best in a couple of years. Plants should be with shiny, leathery leaves, rich green. Make sure that they are free of spots, dots and not shriveled, as these are diseased bushes. Choose seedlings with a well-developed core - so you can get a rich harvest. Study strawberry cultivation videos on the Internet, as sometimes it is better to see once than to hear and read a hundred times.

There is another very important point to increase productivity and palatability strawberries - mulching. Use humus or peat, straw, sawdust or dry grass as mulch and you will provide strawberries with constant top dressing and retain moisture.



A huge plus of mulching:

Protection against infection with gray rot;

Increase in productivity up to 40%;

Reducing the ripening period to two weeks.

May the beautiful strawberry always please you in your garden or vegetable garden with summer sweet, juicy and such healthy berries, and garden work brings only pleasure!

Raspberries are a favorite berry of many gardeners. It is valued not only for its amazing taste and aroma, but also for its unpretentiousness in cultivation and care. Experienced gardeners it is recommended to plant raspberries in the fall, when the survival rate of seedlings is highest.

Pros and cons of planting in the fall

Raspberry seedlings are planted both in spring and autumn. But landing in the fall is preferable for a number of reasons:

• autumn weather is optimal for good rooting of seedlings;
• raspberries planted in autumn next spring grow well green mass and give the first harvest;
• a large selection of different varieties;
• with the advent of autumn, there is more free time for planting raspberries.

Remontant raspberries are planted according to the same rules and terms as simple ones.

minus autumn planting is that it is necessary to plant raspberries about a month before the first frost. Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the weather forecast and not be late with the landing dates.

Selection of raspberry seedlings

Choose healthy seedlings that match the declared variety.

1. Do not buy seedlings in spontaneous markets. Purchase them from nurseries or specialty garden stores.

Purchase raspberry seedlings from nurseries or specialty garden stores.

1. A healthy seedling has 2 to 5 shoots. What length and thickness they are does not matter, since when planting they are shortened by 10–35 cm.
2. Pay attention to the base of the seedling - there should be replacement buds from which young shoots will grow (at least three).
3. If the root system is open, then it should be well branched and quite powerful. Roots should be elastic. Dry and rotten roots are a sign of poor-quality seedlings.

Pay attention to the root system of a raspberry seedling: the roots must be elastic, at the base of the seedling there must be replacement buds

1. Do not buy seedlings whose roots are wrapped in plastic wrap. Even in healthy-looking seedlings, due to prolonged waterlogging, the process of decay may begin in the root system.
2. It is best to buy seedlings grown in containers (closed root system). The roots are not damaged during transplantation, the substrate has all the necessary nutrients, and such plants can be planted at any time from spring to autumn.

Raspberry seedlings grown in containers, the best planting material

I prefer to buy seedlings grown in containers. Such seedlings do not have regrading, they are convenient to transport. Well, in my opinion, that there is no need to rush to land in open ground- in the container, the seedling feels great. All the seedlings bought in containers have taken root well.

How to plant raspberries in autumn

In order for seedlings to successfully overwinter, it is necessary to observe the terms and rules of planting.

Landing dates

Depending on the climatic conditions of the region and on the raspberry variety, the optimal planting dates are chosen.

The main condition is to plant seedlings 20–30 days before the onset of frost. Different regions of Russia have their own landing dates:

• in central Russia, raspberries are planted from early September to October 20;
• in the southern regions, landing is carried out from mid-September to the last days of October;
• in the northern regions, you need to have time to plant raspberries in early September or transfer the planting to spring time.

These landing dates are indicative. The weather is changeable, and each autumn can be different from the previous one. Carefully follow the weather forecast and choose the timing of planting seedlings this year.

Site selection

Raspberries in one place grows up to 10 years. Therefore, it is necessary to select and prepare a site according to certain rules:

1. Plant raspberries in a sunny spot. In the shade of trees, the berries will be small and the yield will be low.
2. In winter, a frosty wind can destroy raspberry stems, and in spring it can knock down the ovaries. Therefore, plant it along the fence or along the buildings on the south side.
3. Raspberries grow well on fertile loamy and sandy soils.
4. The plant is moisture-loving and does not like drought, but without stagnant water. The soil likes well-drained and breathable.

Step-by-step instruction

Having chosen a site, proceed to planting seedlings. As a rule, raspberries are planted in two ways:

• bush;
• trench.

Bush method

With this method, raspberries are planted in pits.

1. Dig planting pits, where the depth and diameter are 40x40 cm. The distance between rows is 1.8–2 m, between adjacent pits is 0.7–1 m.

Plant raspberries according to the scheme: between rows - 1.8 m, between adjacent plants - 0.7 m

1. Add a bucket of manure or compost to the hole.
2. Mix the excavated earth well with mineral fertilizers: 20 g of potassium sulfate, 30 g of superphosphate and 250 g of wood ash and fill the hole halfway.
3. Straighten the roots and place at the bottom of the pit. Deepen the root neck by 2-3 cm.

Deepen the root neck by 2-3 cm

1. Fill the roots with the remaining soil, slightly lifting and shaking the seedling so that the earth evenly fills the voids between the roots.
2. Firm the soil around the seedling with your hands and water well.
3. Cut off the top of the seedling, leaving a shoot 20–30 cm long.
4. Mulch the planting site with sawdust, leaves, plant debris, etc.

With the bush method, a raspberry seedling is planted in a hole

trench method

This method is more labor intensive. But it allows you to get a higher yield, since the nutrients are evenly distributed throughout the raspberries.

1. Make a mark with two pegs and a rope. Dig a trench 40–50 cm wide and 40 cm deep.

Dig a trench 40–50 cm wide and 50 cm deep

1. Lay a nutrient layer at least 10 cm high at the bottom of the trench. This can be rotted manure mixed with the ground, branches, fallen leaves, weeds and other organic debris. This layer, decomposing, will be the source of nutrition for raspberries for 4-5 years.

Lay a nutrient pad at the bottom of the trench

1. From above, pour a layer of excavated garden soil or peat 10 cm high. Thanks to this layer, the process of decay of organic matter will be accelerated and it will protect the roots of the seedlings from contact with decaying residues.
2. Start planting seedlings in the trench, keeping a distance of at least 40-50 cm. Gently straighten the roots and cover the seedling with soil. It is more convenient to plant raspberries in a trench with a partner: one person holds the seedling, the other pours the earth.

It is more convenient to plant raspberries in a trench with a partner

Compliance with the terms and rules for planting seedlings in the fall will allow you to plant raspberries, which will give a good harvest for many years.