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How to properly connect a thermostat to a warm floor. Do-it-yourself installation and connection of a floor heating thermostat. Installation and setup

Electric models of warm floors are suitable for almost any room. This heating has very few restrictions, in contrast to the bulky water plant, which requires the creation of a heating "pie". The manufacture of electric heating comes down to several stages: installation of a heating element and connection of an electric underfloor heating. If there are a lot of installation work step by step instructions, then, as for the connection - it is important to be extremely careful here. In most cases, this work is entrusted to qualified specialists. However, you can do it yourself. Do you want to know how? Read this article.

The process of connecting an electric underfloor heating always goes through a thermostat. The thermostat connection diagram is usually displayed on the product case. Therefore, you should not have any particular difficulties. It is worth noting that there are two ways to connect:

  1. Through an outlet.
  2. Through the electrical panel.

If the connection method is electrical switchboard, then the supply line must be equipped with an individual RCD. This will be protection against sudden power surges.

There are several types of thermostats, the most common are electronic and mechanical. The principle of their connection is almost identical. The product comes with:

  • Mounting box.
  • Terminals.
  • Temperature sensor.
  • Installation/Operation Instructions.

All this will be necessary for installation work. Special requirements for the choice of thermostat.


It is important that the maximum current drawn by the floor matches the input current in the thermostat.

Installation of this device does not require special skills. You need to determine the installation location, and then connect it to the heating circuit. To do this, a strobe is made in the wall and all the supply wires are laid in it, in particular, from the temperature sensor and the supply cable from the electric heating.

The wires of the heating element have their own marking, which is displayed in colors:

  • Phase - white, black or brown, always denoted as L.
  • Zero is blue, denoted as N.
  • Earth is green or yellow.

As for the cables coming from the mains, they are not marked in all cases. Therefore, to identify them, use an indicator screwdriver. If the light bulb lights up when touched, this is a phase.

So, the connection procedure has the following sequence:

  1. Connect the wires from the mains to the thermostat on pins 1 and 2. As a rule, such marking is indicated on the side of the device cover. At this stage, it is unacceptable to confuse the polarity. It is necessary to connect the phase (L) to socket 1, and connect zero (N) to socket 2.
  2. Next, you need to connect the cables coming from the heating circuit. In this case, connect the zero to socket 3, and the phase to socket 4.
  3. After that, there will still be free nests. Connect the temperature sensor to 5 and 6. In this case, polarity is not an important requirement.
  4. At the end of all these actions, check the thermostat for its serviceability. Turn on the device to the minimum temperature. Next, increase it to the maximum. If the connection is made correctly, you will hear the click of a closed circuit.

The wiring diagram may differ slightly. This will depend on the type of thermostat. Strictly adhere to the scheme indicated on the body of the product and you will succeed.

Two types of cable can be used in the device of heating mats: single-core and two-core. As a consequence, this is displayed on the connection process:

  • Single core cable. In its design there is one current-carrying wire with insulation white color and the other is grounding. The current-carrying wire must be connected to slots 3 and 4, grounding to slot 2.
  • Two-wire cable. In this case, the cable design includes several cores: zero (blue), phase (brown or white), ground (yellow-green). The connection of a two-core cable is carried out according to the main scheme. The only difference is that the ground is connected to socket 2. Zero from the mains is usually connected to it.

As you can see, the thermostat is the connecting link of the warm floor and electrical network. In some cases, you will need to install several of these devices. This is especially necessary if a warm electric floor will be laid simultaneously in several rooms. If you install one, and accordingly one temperature sensor, then in some rooms there will not be enough heat energy. The temperature sensor readings will be incorrect. In such situations, you can install a thermostat in each room where the heating circuit is laid. At the same time, a temperature sensor is installed, in combination with a thermostat. This will allow you to maintain a stable and comfortable temperature in all rooms.

The installation of two, three, or even more thermostats is justified in cases where the premises have different purpose. For example, a bathroom will require more heat energy, a different indicator for a living room, etc.

So, we learned how to connect electric floor heating. If you wish, you can deal with all the wiring diagrams. Below are a number of workflows that you can use to complete your task. We will also be interested in your personal experience especially when connected to electricity. This is a very responsible job, which means that you cannot make a mistake here. Share your experience by leaving comments at the end of this article.

Video

From the provided video material, you can learn more about how to connect a cable underfloor heating to a thermostat:

Scheme

From the provided schemes, you can learn more about the schemes for connecting an electric underfloor heating with your own hands:

The device of the underfloor heating system consists in the installation of heating elements under the floor covering and their further connection to a power source. This does not happen directly, but through a thermostat - a device that serves to adjust the temperature regime. Connecting a warm floor to a thermostat (thermostat) and electricity is a simple operation, so it can be done without the involvement of professional electricians. Moreover, caring manufacturers usually portray wiring diagram mounting on the housings of their thermostats. However, if you are a person who is completely ignorant of the wilds of electricity, some of the nuances may not be clear to you. We will try to take into account possible controversial nuances and describe the process of connecting the thermostat to the underfloor heating system in as much detail as possible - for dummies.

How does a thermostat work?

The thermostat is used to maintain a stable temperature in the "warm" system, as well as to turn on and off the heating mats (films). The device "reads" the temperature sensor readings and automatically turns off the power supply as soon as the floor heats up to the required limit. At the same time, he remains in working mode and continues to control the situation. If the sensor notifies of deviations in the temperature regime, the thermostat will again turn on electricity to the system and the floor will begin to heat up.

The most popular and reliable thermostats are mechanical and conventional electronic ones. More complex - electronic programmable. Despite the significant difference in their "stuffing", the principle of connecting thermostats is very similar.

The kit for the thermostat includes a temperature sensor, mounting box, terminals, installation and operating instructions

Installation and connection of the thermostat

The thermostat is usually mounted into the wall like a normal switch. For it, a place is chosen near the existing electrical wiring, for example, near the outlet. First, a recess is made in the wall, a thermostat mounting box is installed there, wires (phase and zero) of the mains and a temperature sensor are connected to it. The next step is to connect the thermostat.

On the side of the thermostat are "nests". The wires of the network (220V), the sensor and the heating cable are brought here.

It is useful to know that the wires that are connected when installing the thermostat are color-coded:

  • white (black, brown) wire - L phase;
  • blue wire - N zero;
  • yellow-green wire - ground.

Connecting a warm floor to electricity is performed in the following order:

  1. To "nests" 1 and 2 connect network wires with a voltage of 220V. Polarity is strictly observed: wire L (phase) is connected to pin 1, wire N (zero) is connected to pin 2.
  2. A heating cable for underfloor heating is connected to contacts 3 and 4 according to the principle: 3 contact - wire N (zero), 4 contact - wire L (phase).
  3. The wires of the temperature sensor (usually built into the floor, that is, determining the temperature in the thickness of the floor) are connected to "sockets" 6 and 7. The principles of polarity do not need to be observed here.
  4. Check the thermostat is working. To do this, turn on the -220V power supply, set the minimum temperature on the device and turn on the system of heating elements (by turning the knob or pressing the button). After that, the heating mode is changed to the maximum, that is, the thermostat is “programmed” to the highest temperature that is possible for it. Correct work the device will announce itself with a click, which will indicate the closure of the heating circuit.

Connection schemes may vary slightly, depending on the types and models of thermostats. Therefore, so that the user does not make a mistake, as a rule, all contacts are written on the device case.

When connecting the thermostat, follow the connection diagram shown on the device case.

Small differences in connection dictate the features of underfloor heating cables. According to their structure and number of cores, they are divided into single-core and double-core. Accordingly, there are some nuances in their connection schemes.

Connecting a two-wire cable to the thermostat

A two-core heating cable has two current-carrying conductors under a protective sheath. This type of cable is more convenient than a single-core design, since it is connected to the thermostat only from one end. Consider a typical connection scheme:

Diagram for connecting a two-core cable to a thermostat

We see that 3 wires are adjacent in one two-core cable: 2 of them are current-carrying (brown and blue), 1 is grounding (yellow-green). A brown wire (phase) is connected to pin 3, blue (zero) to pin 4, and green (ground) to pin 5.

The kit for the thermostat, the diagram of which we have just reviewed, does not include a ground terminal. With a ground terminal, installation is greatly simplified.

Two light green wires through the PE terminal are connected to the ground loop

Connecting a single-core cable

In a single-core cable, there is only one current-carrying conductor, usually it is white. The second wire - green - is the grounding of the PE screen. The connection scheme can be like this:

Scheme of connecting a single-core cable to a thermostat

White wires are connected to thermostat contacts 3 and 4 (both ends of a single-core cable), contact 5 is connected to a green ground wire.

Video example of installation work

As you can see, connecting a thermostat is one of the easiest steps in building a warm floor. You don't need seven spans in your forehead to deal with the simplest circuit, drawn on the body of the device, and follow all recommendations of the manufacturer. The only difficulty may be to ensure personal safety when working with electricity. Follow the installation instructions and remember that the connection of the thermostat must be carried out with the machine (circuit breaker) switched off.

The issue of heating your home has long become relevant. Now many users are moving to central heating on autonomous: electric and gas. Heating with electricity can be carried out using a boiler with heating system, in the form of interconnected batteries with a coolant, using convectors and using a warm floor.

Electric heating system

This type of heating has several advantages:

To create a comfortable microclimate, it is necessary to control the heat generated by the equipment. To do this, thermostats are used. Modern electric heaters have a wide variety: boilers, convectors, underfloor heating. Many of the heating boilers have a built-in programmer (daily, weekly) that can regulate the temperature in the room according to the program set by the user. But often there is a situation when a budget heater is purchased, the functions of which do not include temperature control. Basically, the built-in regulator only controls the media temperature. To control temperature regime room thermostats are used.

Types of thermostats

According to the constructive solution, 2 main categories can be distinguished:

  • mechanical thermostats;
  • electronic regulators.

mechanical device

As an example mechanical regulator you can bring capillary. It works on the principle of expansion of a liquid in a capillary when heated. When the set temperature is reached, the membrane acts on the contact, and it breaks the power supply circuit of the heater, disconnecting it from the network.

In order to understand how to connect a thermostat, you need to understand how the boiler circuit works. You can connect a thermostat not only to electrical equipment. Modern gas boilers can also be controlled by such a device. Consider the simplest example of the operation of the boiler. The signal from the media temperature sensor goes to the control relay heating device. When the set temperature is reached relay carrier is switched off. At the same time, the temperature in the room is not controlled in any way. When connected to the thermostat circuit, control over the operation of the heater is assigned to the thermostat, which monitors the set temperature in the room.

Figuring out how to connect a thermostat is not difficult. It is enough to look into the passport of the heater. As a rule, the manufacturer installs a jumper in the device circuit, instead of which you need to connect the regulator contacts.

Electronic regulator

This type of regulators is much more expensive than mechanical regulators and is much more convenient in terms of the functions performed. Such a device allows you to set and regulate the temperature of the room both during the day and for the week. There is an opportunity for savings. For example, electricity is much cheaper at night than during the day. This can be used when programming temperature cycles. In the absence of the owners of the house, install cooler temperature.

Being away for several days, it is permissible to keep an empty apartment at a temperature below comfortable, and before the appearance of the owners of the house, the thermostat will go to the elevated temperature mode specified in the program.

There are two main types of electronic devices:

  • thermostat wired;
  • wireless device.

The wiring diagram for a wired thermostat is the same as for connecting a mechanical device. Instead of a jumper, the device contacts are connected in the circuit. The regulator itself is carried out with the help of wires at a certain distance from the heat source and fixed in a convenient place. Thus, the control will be the temperature at the place of its fixing.

A wireless device does not require wires. This device consists of two parts:

  • room thermostat (freely portable);
  • receiving device.

The receiving device is installed directly next to the heating device and is included in the circuit in the same way as a wired system. Room thermostat can be located anywhere in the room - where the air temperature will be controlled. You can put it on your bedside table and freely control the temperature. Communication between these two elements occurs through radio waves.

Underfloor heating control is available in the same way. To connect the thermostat to several convectors located in separate rooms, you will need to apply a different scheme:

  • control of all convectors through one starter;
  • control of each heating device separately.

In the first case, you need a starter. It will be controlled by a single thermostat: all appliances will turn on and off at the same time.

In the second case, thermostats will be needed in an amount equal to the number of heating devices. Each of them will control one convector. This option is much more expensive, since the cost of each regulator is far from small, it varies within the selected option according to the principle - the better, the more expensive.

Hello, dear readers of the Electrician's Notes website.

I planned to make a warm floor in my bathroom at the beginning of November. After reading a lot of reviews and suggestions on the forums, I opted for the Thermomat heating mat, or Thermo for short, from a Swedish manufacturer.

The heating cable TVK has two cores with a cross section of 2.8 (mm) in double Teflon insulation. The inner sheath is made of aluminum foil (shield), and the outer sheath is made of PVC, which gives the cable additional strength and tightness, as well as uniform temperature distribution along its entire length. The cable is attached to a plastic reinforcing mesh of a certain size.

This is how it all looks.

This heating mat is also convenient in that it can be installed directly into the layer of tile adhesive. It turns out "thin warm floor". And according to the manufacturer's instructions, it can even be installed on old tiles.

The size of my bathroom is modest, so I chose a TVK-130 heating mat kit worth 3528 rubles. Here are its characteristics:

  • heating cable brand - TVK
  • operating voltage 230 (V)
  • the size plastic mesh 0.5x2 (m)
  • heating area 1 (sq.m)
  • power 130 (W)
  • resistance 407 (ohm)
  • maximum heating temperature up to 90°С

Nourishing connecting wires(made of copper) have a cross section of 1.0 (sq. mm) and a length of 3 (m). They are also called "cold" because they are not heating, but only connect the TVK cable to the thermostat.

  • phase L - brown
  • zero N - blue color
  • shield grounding PE - green-yellow

This kit also includes a piece of corrugation for laying a temperature sensor (temperature sensor), which comes with a thermostat. There was no thermostat in this kit, so I had to choose it separately.

How to choose a thermostat for underfloor heating

I chose the simplest mechanical thermostat TR-110 from the National Comfort company.

Its cost was 1499 rubles.

It was possible to buy an electronic one, where there are many functions, an LCD display and the possibility of programming, but it will be more expensive in price, and I don’t need so many “bells and whistles” in the bathroom. Another thing if I used it in a water heating system.

By the way, the warranty for TR-110 is 2 years from the date of purchase.

Here is a check for all purchased floor heating equipment:

Total, 5000 rubles.

Purpose and technical data of the thermostat TR-110

TR-110 is required to maintain the set temperature (from +5°C to +45°C) of the heated floor surface in the bathroom, kitchen and other rooms. This happens with the help of a temperature sensor that comes with it in the kit. In fact, this is an ordinary thermistor, in which, depending on the temperature, the resistance changes in one direction or another.

Technical data:

In terms of switching ability, it suits me, because. the power of the warm floor is only 130 (W) or 0.6 (A).

If your underfloor heating load current exceeds the maximum load current of the thermostat, then you need to use a contactor.

Installation and installation of a thermostat

First of all, it is necessary to determine the place of installation of the thermostat. I already had a socket installed in my bathroom, so in order not to lay a new line, I decided to install the thermostat just below the socket and connect it with a cable from it.

Then, between the outlet and the thermostat, I made a power cable for the TR-110 thermostat.

In my case, a VVGng cable (3x2.5) was laid from the apartment shield to the outlet. This line is protected circuit breaker 16 (A) and RCD 25 (A), 30 (mA). Therefore, to power the thermostat, I laid a cable of the same brand and section - VVGng (3x2.5).

If you are making repairs in the entire apartment, then it is advisable to lay a separate supply line from the apartment shield for a warm floor with a copper cable with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm. This line must be protected by a circuit breaker 16 (A) and RCD 25 (A), 30 (mA).

For the concealed laying of the supply wires of the TVK-130 heating cable and the corrugation with a temperature sensor, I made a vertical strobe in the wall from the floor to the thermostat socket.

It remains to hollow out a channel (continuation of the strobe on the wall) in the floor at a distance of 30-50 (cm) into the heating zone for laying a corrugated tube with a temperature sensor. We immediately leave it in the channel.

Then you need to spread the heating mat TVK-130.

To do this, we will remove all debris, sharp objects and dust after chasing, prime the old floor surface ( concrete base- screed).

Carefully place the heating mat on the floor surface in such a way that the temperature sensor is located at the same distance from the heating cable, and fasten it to plastic brackets.

Then we apply tile glue to the grid and lay the tiles. According to the instructions, the total layer (tile adhesive + tile coating) should not exceed 2 (cm).

On the case of almost any thermostat, a diagram of its connection is shown. My case is no exception.

The temperature sensor (thermistor) is always connected to terminals 1 and 2. The polarity does not matter.

The voltage 220 (V) of the thermostat power supply is supplied to terminal 6 (phase L) and terminal 5 (zero N).

I hope you know how to find the phase of the power supply. If you forgot, then read the article about or.

1. For two-core cable

In my case, a two-core TVK cable is used. Therefore, we will connect it to the thermostat according to the following scheme.

We connect the brown wire (phase L) to terminal 3, the blue wire (zero N) to terminal 4, the yellow-green wire (screen grounding PE) to terminal 5.

Here I ask you to pay attention to the fact that the screen of the heating cable is supposed to be zeroed. If in your apartment, then the screen should not be grounded, but grounded. Otherwise, if you have an RCD installed in your shield, then it will be.

Unfortunately, this thermostat does not have a ground terminal (PE), so you need to connect the screen of the TVK cable to the PE conductor of the network using. And lay the connection itself in the free space of the socket.

On some models of thermostats, a PE ground terminal is already installed, which greatly speeds up the installation process.

2. For single core cable

If you use a single-core heating cable, then its wires (usually white) are connected to terminals 3 and 4, and the yellow-green wire (PE screen ground) to terminal 5.

Here is a similar situation with the zeroing of the screen of the heating cable. Read the explanation for this just above.

To install the thermostat in the socket, you need to remove the “wheel” of adjustment and bend the two latches. Thus, you will remove the front part of the regulator. Lead the rest into the socket and fix it with screws around the perimeter.

How to use the thermostat TR-110

On the outside of the thermostat are:

  • switch
  • "wheel" for setting the desired temperature
  • red on position LED

The switch has two positions. If “0” is set, then the thermostat is disabled, if “1”, then the thermostat goes into operation and monitors and maintains the set temperature of the heated floor surface.

Just the same, with the help of the “wheel” the required temperature is adjusted according to the applied scale.

When the red LED is on, it means that the thermostat has turned on the heating system.

How it works? Everything is simple. We set the temperature on the regulator to 26 ° C. If the floor surface temperature is less than 26°C, the thermostat switches on the heating cable. As soon as the surface temperature reaches 26°C, the thermostat turns it off.

In this way, both comfort in the bathroom and energy savings are achieved, due to the fact that the heaters are not always on.

P.S. That's all. Thank you for your attention. If you have any questions about this material, then ask them in the form of comments or by personal mail.

Everyone who starts a renovation in an apartment wants to make the perfect flooring, and new technologies contribute to this in many ways. All materials are now available and varied. These are numerous types ceramic tiles, laminate, parquet, or self-leveling floor with a 3D effect.

But in addition to the decorative properties, one should not forget about the physical ones, for example, stepping on a cold tile after taking a hot bath is unpleasant. Therefore, the quality floor covering lies not only in its beauty, but also in a comfortable temperature.

Types and principle of operation

There are two main types of underfloor heating:

  • water;
  • electric.

Water heated floor is not common among apartment owners of ordinary multi-storey buildings, because such a re-equipment of water supply systems in many areas of our country is prohibited by law. Most often, the installation of a water floor is recommended to be carried out in private homes. where it will undoubtedly be the most profitable and safe for consumers. Pipes for such laying are used, as a rule, metal-plastic or polyethylene.

Electric underfloor heating is convenient for users in that, using it with a temperature controller, you can save electricity and make its temperature as comfortable as possible for yourself.

Nowadays, a two-zone regulator is often used, which can control the temperature at different warm floors located in adjacent rooms.

The electric floor is represented by several varieties:

Cable underfloor heating

The most economical among electric underfloor heating. Sold in hardware stores in the form of coils, stacked with a snake on a special reinforcing mesh. Subsequently, it is poured with a concrete screed. The cable is energized and generates heat.

The heating resistive cable is of two types:

  • single core;
  • two-core.

The most commonly used is the last, two-wire. The reason for this is electromagnetic radiation, it comes from a single-core electrical cable more than from a two-core one. This is due to the fact that two current-carrying wires radiate two vortex fields, which are at least partially offset by each other. And since the influence of electromagnetic fields on the human body adversely affects its functioning, it turns out that two-core cable is safer for our health. The use of single-core mats is advisable outside the living space.

Heating mats

The thickness of the heating core is only 3 mm, which allows you to lay the floor both dry (directly under the laminate) and wet (for example, in the adhesive layer of the tile). The price of heating mats is higher than for a simple cable underfloor heating, but they also have more advantages: installation is simple and the mat heats up faster, because the cable is closer to the surface.

Film infrared floor

This is a thin flexible thermal film, which consists of heating elements (carbon or bimetallic) along the edges of which copper tires are located, and electricity. Differs in completely dry installation and keeps within a laminate, a carpet, a parquet, a tile. The heat generated by the infrared floor is evenly distributed, which is different from simple electric floor heating based on a heating cable.

Wiring diagram

Installation and configuration of electric underfloor heating - enough simple task. The main thing is to correctly position the heating elements, connect the system to the thermostat and to the power source. Following the recommendations, you can properly install underfloor heating with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialists.

Regardless of the type of underfloor heating being laid, it is necessary to prepare a thermostat. You need to connect it to the network, think about whether it will be powered by an electrical panel or from an existing outlet. As a rule, the connection diagram is already shown on the thermostats, which facilitates the installation procedure. It is also necessary to cut a ditch in the wall. There, in the future, it will be necessary to carry out two corrugations: in one of them there will be a temperature sensor, and in the other - the power wires of the heating cable. Only after carrying out these activities, you can begin the direct laying of the warm floor.

When connecting the cable floor, it is necessary to lead the two ends of the power cable to the thermostat (the connecting sleeve is subsequently poured with a concrete screed).

The simplest and effective way cable laying is a serpentine, but any other method can be used, as long as the cables are not crossed.

Next, you need to install a temperature sensor, it should be placed in a special plastic tube. It will be possible to check the cable underfloor heating for operability only after complete drying concrete screed. It is necessary to connect the wires that feed the entire system, the power wires for the heating cable, as well as the temperature sensor wire.

The principle of laying a thermal mat is similar, you just need to correctly calculate the power per square meter. After laying the mat, it is poured with a thin layer of concrete screed or tile adhesive and a decorative coating is laid on top. Do not use thermal insulation, as it will lead to overheating. The coupling is also located inside the screed.

The scheme of laying the infrared film floor differs from the previous ones only in the use of a special substrate based on a foil film. It allows you to reflect infrared rays in the right direction.

Installation and setup

From the point of view of saving energy resources, installing a water floor is the most effective. The management of all pipes of closed systems is carried out by the so-called system of combs (collector) of the warm floor. It is a distribution unit in which all pipes of closed heating systems converge.

The comb performs several functions at once:

  • Reduces the supply water temperature. The temperature of the warm floor should not exceed 45 degrees.
  • Provides the necessary heat in the room, controls the flow in each circuit. For this purpose, flow meters are provided in the collector, they are responsible for the flow of water.

The installation of a cabinet with a collector occurs relative to the height of the finished planned underfloor heating. The collector without a cabinet is recommended to be located at a height of at least 1 m from the floor level.

Also, the system often requires the inclusion of a three-way valve to control the flow of water. It is its presence in the system that makes it possible to supply water of a stable temperature to the underfloor heating wiring. There is a thermostatic box on the valve, which allows you to regulate the heating at the outlet. The mixing of water takes place between hot water coming from the boiler with the liquid coming back from the system, which gives maximum savings.

Thus, the circulation in the system looks like this:

  • Hot water from the boiler enters the collector.
  • Then it enters the three-way valve, if the water temperature is higher than desired, then the valve opens to allow the cooled water to enter.
  • Inside, mixing takes place until the temperature reaches the desired level.
  • The valve closes.

As for electric underfloor heating, in this case you will have to be puzzled by the choice of a thermostat and set it up correctly, they are:

  • with manual or electronic control;
  • with and without programming.

Most simple thermostats- mechanical, controlled by a swivel wheel. They have a significant drawback - increased energy consumption, because in this case it is easy to forget and leave the warm floor on.

Electronic thermostats - controlled by pressing buttons, the desired temperature and the current one are displayed on the LCD screen.

Electronic programmable thermostats have the same appearance as simple electronic ones, but are supplemented with the function of turning the floor on and off at a certain time and even depending on the day of the week (weekday / weekend). The use of such devices is not only convenient, but also helps to save a considerable amount of electricity if programmed correctly.

The only problem for some users may be the difficulty of programming such a thermostat. To do this, manufacturers include enough detailed instructions for use, adjustment and adjustment.

The electronic thermostat is connected according to the scheme indicated by the manufacturer on the case. There are indications near the terminals intended for one or another wire: two terminals for the floor temperature sensor, three for the power cable (phase, zero and ground) and two for the heating cable of the warmest floor (2 wires are used for a two-wire, for a single-core, respectively , one).

When working with the installation of a thermostat, do not forget about the observance of elementary safety rules:

  • The room should be de-energized.
  • The operating temperature of the thermostat is from -5 to +40 degrees.
  • Cleaning must be carried out without the use of harsh chemicals.
  • It is worth checking the operability of the thermostat only after the completion of the work; you should not start if the device is disassembled.

Manufacturer rating

To date, the choice of underfloor heating systems in stores is quite extensive. In this regard, it can be difficult to choose from such a variety a really high-quality product that meets all the requirements.

Therefore, it is necessary to consider the main manufacturers and compare the features of their products:

  • Devi- a manufacturer from Denmark, representing cable underfloor heating. This brand has an undeniable plus: service centres"Devi" are found in almost all major cities of our country, so in the event of a problem, you can always call a repair specialist who will help solve your problem. The warranty for underfloor heating from this manufacturer is 20 years, and the cost of their systems is often lower than that of competitors. Devi also produces high-quality thermostats, so many give the brand a well-deserved first place.

  • "Teplolux"- Russian manufacturer, which became the leader in the domestic market of underfloor heating in 2010. The manufacturer gives a guarantee of 25 years, the price of this product is very pleasant, and the range is quite wide. Teplolux produces ultra-thin heated floors, and mobile, and many others designed to create comfortable conditions.
  • Energy is a British manufacturer that initially established itself in its homeland, and subsequently in other countries of the world. Its advantage over other manufacturers is the environmental friendliness of materials. Also, "Energy" thermomats are considered one of the most economical both in terms of power consumption by cable and in terms of the cost of the equipment itself. The manufacturer's warranty is 20 years.