Gladiolus bulbs are moldy what to do. Gladiolus - preparation for planting, recommendations for successful cultivation. Gladiolus in autumn preparation for winter, care, use of fertilizers, technology and timing of pruning

03.04.2020

In the fight against diseases of gladioli, the main thing is prevention, prevention and prevention
.

It is easier to prevent a disease than to fight it later. The spread of diseases is facilitated by improper agricultural practices and ignorance of the basics of plant protection. Most gladiolus diseases are spread by fungal spores. With dense plantings and adverse weather conditions, diseases can affect all plantings within a few days. Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers can influence the development of diseases both positively and negatively. Excessive concentration of salts in the soil causes damage to the root hairs. Pathogenic agents easily penetrate through dead tissues.

During flowering, it is dangerous to overfeed gladioli with nitrogen fertilizers, as this increases the intercellular spaces in the root tissues, which also facilitates the penetration of fungi and bacteria into the plant. In autumn, with an excess of nitrogen in the soil, plant growth continues for a long time, which reduces the quality of corms.

Potassium increases the resistance of plants not only to diseases, but also to bad weather; copper, manganese and zinc also contribute to this. It must be remembered that nitrogen reduces the absorption of copper, and phosphorus reduces the absorption of copper, zinc and boron. Therefore, at the same time as fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, copper fertilizers should also be given. Due to the low demand for phosphorus and its negative influence on the digestibility of many trace elements, one should not get carried away with phosphate fertilizers.

There are agrotechnical, chemical and physical methods of disease control.

Agricultural methods

Improvement of the soil is greatly facilitated by crop rotation. For example, before gladioli it is useful to grow marigolds, calendula, nasturtium, mustard, parsley.

By purchasing new corms, you can bring any disease to your site. Therefore, it is necessary to provide for quarantine and disinfection measures. Corms before planting must be carefully inspected and only healthy ones should be planted - the rest should be destroyed.

Preventive soaking planting material in a 0.05% solution of copper sulfate or a strong solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes before planting helps to remove pathogens from its surface.

Planting at the optimal time increases the resistance of plants to diseases. With a delay in planting until the time when the soil temperature rises to + 10C, the development of the roots is delayed, and due to the nutrient reserves in the corm, increased leaf growth begins. As a result, oppression of the plant may occur and they are more easily affected by diseases.

Removing weeds, loosening and watering have great importance for prevention. Weeds not only deplete the soil, but also serve as reservoirs of infection. Loosening contributes to the destruction of the mycelium and improves air access to the roots. The lack of moisture weakens the root system, and gladioli are more affected by diseases.

Timely feeding increases the protective properties of plants. The term of digging up gladioli also affects the number of diseased plants for the next year. The later the cleaning is carried out, the more diseased planting material.

A baby for planting should be taken only from strong healthy plants, in which case the variety will constantly improve.

chemical method

For disinfection of planting material, soil and spraying of plants, substances toxic to pathogens and pests are used.
.

Chemical treatment is also carried out for prevention, assuming that pathogens may appear under these conditions. A toxic drug will destroy the spores before they penetrate the plant tissue.

To disinfect the soil during autumn digging, it is watered with a 2% solution of copper sulfate or a 1-3% solution of thiazon at the rate of 10 liters per 1 m.

Before planting, the corms are soaked for 15 hours in a warm solution of complete mineral fertilizers with microelements 20 g per 10 liters (but not more often than 1 time in 3 years), and then for disinfection for 30 minutes in a dark cherry solution of potassium permanganate or in copper sulfate solution (5 g per 10 l) or better for 18 hours in a solution of thiourea (CS (NH2) 2 - thiocarbonic acid diamide, thiocarbamide) - 5 g per 1 liter. Even diseased corms soaked in a solution of thiourea are cured.

Karbofos is used for preventive spraying against pests, starting from the end of June with an interval of 1-2 weeks, only 2-3 times per season (20 g per 10 l of water). If there are peonies in the garden, then they are treated with the same solution, as thrips passes from one culture to another.

For preventive and therapeutic spraying, starting from mid-June, spraying with a solution of copper oxychloride (5-10 g per 10 l) is used and the plants are treated every 4-5 days at least 3 times in a row.

To combat thrips, spraying with infusion of garlic (100-200 g per 10 l) is also used.

physical method

The physical method consists in the heat treatment of corms immediately after digging
.

Dirty corms should be washed, the baby should be separated, the roots and stems cut off. Pour corms hot water, temperature + 55C exactly according to the thermometer. After 5 minutes, drain the water and pour hot water (+55C) for another 10 minutes. Then drain the hot water and immediately pour cold water 10-12C, replacing it 3-4 times or flowing.

A sharp temperature drop helps to cure corms from fusarium, rot, scab, and has a detrimental effect on nematodes and thrips. Pour the treated corms for 30 minutes with a strong solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 1 liter). After that, dry the corms for 2-3 days at elevated temperature and ventilation, and then for 30 days at a temperature of 20-25C.

Most dangerous diseases gladioli

Signs:
spots of dark color quickly spread along the corms of gladioli. When they are cut, blackened vessels are observed inside. Diseased bulbs grow slowly. The plant develops very poorly, and its leaves quickly turn yellow and dry out. The roots on the corms die off and the flower dies.

Control measures:
landing of gladioli in the old place is carried out after 4 - 5 years. We regularly mulch and drain the soil. We stop fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Dry the dug out flower bulbs thoroughly. Before sending for storage, we immerse them for 5 minutes. into water (50 - 55 degrees), and then dry the planting material well.

In the spring, before planting in the ground, we process it with 0.2% foundationazole. In autumn, we treat the soil with 3% metam (carbation). The consumption of this product is 5 l / 1 sq. m.

2. Septoria, botrytiosis, dry and penicella rot

Signs:
with these fungal diseases, all parts of the plant are affected. Spots of different colors appear on the leaves of gladioli. Bulbs of diseased plants also change. All of the above fungal diseases most often affect flowers in rainy and cold weather. Heavily thickened plantings are also subject to them. It provokes the development of fungal diseases and the introduction of an excess amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers and organic matter into the soil. All of the above diseases of gladioli are easily transmitted through contaminated soil.

Control measures:
we dig out diseased specimens of flowers and destroy them. Storage, containers for bulbs are disinfected with 5% copper sulphate or 4% formalin. Dry the planting material well before sending it to storage. Before planting on flower beds, gladioli are treated with 0.2% foundationol. In the process of plant growth, we spray them with 0.5% copper oxychloride.

3. Mosaic

Signs:
pale green spots of various sizes appear on the leaves of gladioli, and the petals of the flowers become variegated.

Control measures:
specimens of flowers affected by such a viral disease are burned.

4. Scab

Signs:
dark sores are visible on the corm of the gladiolus.

Control measures:
We use the same remedies that are intended for the treatment of fungal diseases.

Among the most common pests of this type of flowers, the following are of particular danger:

1. Gladiolus thrips

A small insect (1 - 1.5 mm) is almost black in color. Its light-colored larvae feed on the juices of the plant. These insects infect bulbs in stores where the air temperature exceeds 10 degrees. In hot weather, they multiply in huge numbers. When the temperature drops environment pests move to the lower parts of the gladiolus.

Signs:
the bulb acquires a “burnt” (rough) surface, silvery spots form on the tissues of the plant and the buds curl. At first, the bulbs become covered with a sticky coating and lighten, and by spring they become dark and shriveled. A sign of the vital activity of thrips are yellow strokes (rupture of gladiolus tissues when insect eggs are laid) and dark dots (waste products). From damage, the flowers fade, lose their color and die.

Control measures:
if the number of pests is very high, we make an early cut of the stems of the plant. We burn all the affected gladioli, and dig up the soil. We disinfect corms by immersing them for 5 minutes in water (50 degrees) and spraying with a 0.4% solution of karbofos. The processed planting material is dried and stored by sprinkling them with chalk. We periodically review it and remove the affected corms. When thrips are detected, we place the planting material in paper bags. In a large bag with 1 kg of gladiolus bulbs, we put 15 pcs. naphthalene tablets and leave them there for 1.5 months. We ventilate the disinfected bulbs and store until spring, like the rest of the planting material.

Before planting, all bulbs of plants with suspected pest infestation are discarded and destroyed. We pickle corms with 0.2% foundationazole with 0.2% karbofos. In the process of growing flowers, every decade we process them with 0.2% karbofos. We plant these flowers in the same place only after 4-5 years. To prevent the appearance of thrips on flowerbeds with gladioli, we plant tagetes or calendula.

Signs:
diseased plants noticeably lag behind in development. The stems and leaves of flowers turn yellow and wither. Most often, an onion mite attacks bulbs that are not peeled from old roots and scales. This insect, 1 mm in size, is pale - yellow color lives on the remains of vegetation, and penetrates into the bulb through its bottom. During storage of planting material of gladioli, brownish dust appears on it. Affected bulbs rot and dry out, turning into rotten remnants. When planting planting material infected with pests is planted in the soil, it and other bulbous flowers become infected.

Control measures:
in the process of development of gladioli, we discard specimens with yellow leaves, and spray the rest with 10% karbofos. After digging up the flowers, we destroy all the remnants of vegetation. For 3 - 4 years, we do not place gladioli on areas of land affected by ticks. For storage we send corms thoroughly cleaned of scales and roots. Immerse them for 5 minutes in water (50C), and then disinfect them in a 0.5% solution of karbofos.

These are the larvae of all click beetles (Elateridae). Wireworms can be distinguished from larval species of other insects by their rigid body. They usually reach 1-4 cm in length.

The wireworm gnaws out the middle of the gladiolus shoots if there is not enough moisture in the soil for it, in which case the plants die. If there is a lot of wheatgrass on the site, then there will most likely be a lot of wireworm too. The wireworm loves to eat wheatgrass rhizomes.

Do not plant gladiolus after perennial plantings strawberries, where many click beetles and their larvae accumulate.

The reproduction of the wireworm on the site contributes a large number of weeds, so they need to be removed, as well as deeply loosen the soil.

In different places of the site near the gladioli, potatoes, carrots, beets cut into pieces are laid out as a bait, larvae bite into them. Periodically, the bait is taken out and the wireworm is destroyed.

Also, for the prevention of wireworms, metaphos powder is added to the soil (5-8 g per 1 m 2
).

Wireworm fight

There are no chemical means of dealing with wireworm today, there are preventive measures. You can list such measures, they help reduce the number of wireworms:

Digging up the soil in late autumn, before the first frosts.
Remove weeds, especially wheatgrass and fireweed.
Reduce the acidity of the soil - add coal ash, mineral fertilizers, slaked lime.
The soil needs to be loosened. It is convenient to loosen potatoes between rows.
Apply mineral fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, ammonia water).
When digging up the soil, destroy worms, pupae and beetles.
Helps liming the soil. When digging, add lime, egg shells, chalk, etc.
Make baits for the larvae.
Increase the content of nitrogenous compounds in the soil. You can plant legumes. No wonder potatoes are often planted along with beans - this helps.
Spill wells or grooves when planting potatoes with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water, 0.5 liters of water per well).
It helps to add dry onion peel when planting to each tuber - an old folk way.
In autumn, spread straw or manure around the site in heaps. With the first frosts, burn these heaps.

To destroy the wireworm, there is the drug Bazudin.

Lure crops of oats, corn, barley can help. Soak the seeds in an insecticidal solution. We sow two weeks before sowing potatoes or together with potatoes, between rows. Plants soaked in special means solutions give poisoned seedlings, the worms die from eating them.

If you have a lot of jars, you can try this method. In glass 0.5 l jars we put pieces of chopped raw potatoes (a little, at the bottom of the jars) and bury them in the area in shady place to the neck. About 10 cans need to be buried per hundred square meters. Then periodically (every 2-3 days) we go and collect beetles, put fresh bait. Banks can be kept all summer long - adult click beetles are well caught in them.

To catch the larvae, we put pieces of chopped potatoes on sticks, bury them in the ground (depth 10-15 cm). The ends of the sticks remain above the ground so that the bait can be found. Every couple of days we dig out the baits, collect the larvae from them, and bury them again.

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Should the bulbs of gladiolus, which were stored in the hut, have a moldy bottom, should they really be thrown away? and got the best answer

Answer from tatyana savchenko SIBERIA[guru]
Just moldy? And to what extent? Anyway, don't rush. Do not try to rinse or soak (you will only make it worse - the bulbs will immediately start growing) or cut something. Wipe the bottom very carefully with something like a disposable handkerchief and lay it out for several hours on paper in front of the battery. Lay bottom up. Drying time depends on the temperature of your batteries - from 4-5 to a day. After that - the bulbs in paper bags, these bags in polyester bags, and they are already in the refrigerator. Check again after a week. If necessary, repeat the procedure. The summer of 2009 turned out to be super rainy. I have already taken out my bulbs 5 times for additional drying (although not moldy). It's just for you for the future - during the winter you need to pull them out a couple of times for additional drying. In normal years, for 1-2 hours, well, but in such years as 2009 more often

Answer from Äleita[guru]
I used to keep it in a shoe box in my apartment! It is necessary to process Maxim in the fall!

Answer from sorbowed[guru]
I agree with Jan...

Answer from Darina freestyle[guru]
Before putting in the refrigerator, look at the corms and dry them. In order not to suffer with a storage container, buy once a special plastic box with a lid that has an air outlet. For some, this is done by evacuating air with a special pump, but it is more convenient for those who press the lid and the air comes out, it is important that air does not get back into the container. Buy Polyphepam adsorbent at the pharmacy and pour it on the bottom of the container. Fold the corms there and close it by pumping out the air. I store gladioli in such a container in the refrigerator for a month, then I dry both the gladioli and the adsorbent. Corms do not disappear and do not get sick. You can also store callas and cannes and begonias. It is important that the corms are not wet and air them periodically.

Answer from Yotepan Nikolaychuk[guru]
Clean, treat with a solution of potassium permanganate, dry. After a month, you can germinate (to be sure)

Answer from Zhanna S[guru]
I have the same problem.)
If it's just mold, don't throw it away.
I offer this option.
Cause:
poorly dried corms or storage in conditions of high humidity.
Decision:
- Dry the corms if they are damp;
- Carefully, so as not to damage the bottom, clean it from mold;
- Wipe with a cut clove of garlic or activated charcoal (pharmacy can be used).
- Wrap in newspaper, then in a paper bag.

Answer from Larisa Kulakova[active]
I immediately wash the roots in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, then plant them in disposable glasses for ripening. Only instead of earth I take sand. As soon as the snow melts, I immediately plant it under the film. And always with flowers. In the refrigerator I store not in a bag, but in glass jar, covered with gauze, so the bulbs almost do not deteriorate.

Answer from Vasin's love[guru]
Take advice: - do not suffer and buy new ones, otherwise only time and worries ...

Answer from Osfalia[guru]
disinfect with potassium permanganate, cut off rotten places, sprinkle the cut with ashes

Answer from Vesta[guru]
I had this too. Remove the onions from the refrigerator, wash the bottoms with soap and water and treat with Maxim. Dry for 5 days (preferably in a cool place) and put it back in the cold. And you don't have to cut anything. You cut out the roots and nothing will grow.

Answer from Yovetik[guru]
I asked about the same thing last year. They advised to cut, process with brilliant green and dry. I did so. I planted it and nothing grew: - (I'm worried about mine again. The summer was damp - I wonder how the bulbs will survive?

Answer from 3 answers[guru]

Hey! Here is a selection of topics with answers to your question: Do the gladioli bulbs that were stored in the x-ke have a moldy bottom, can they really be thrown away?

Gladiolus in winter: how to store at home, how to save, care

In order not to accidentally cut the tuber with a shovel, it is driven into the ground at a distance of 20 cm from the tuber. When digging, you can help a little with your hands, supporting from below, so as not to lose the children.

This is a great planting material for next season. After digging, each is shaken off the ground and folded according to the variety. When the excavation has come to an end, the stem is shortened on all tubers to a height of 20 cm.

Of those dug out, it is worth removing those that are clearly affected by the disease or badly damaged by worms or larvae.

Gardeners, explaining how to properly store gladiolus bulbs, assure that the quality of their drying depends on the safety of tubers in winter by more than 50%.

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Often, fan heaters are used for this, other similar devices - the temperature during drying should be at least 26-30 degrees.

The main thing for the preservation of gladiolus bulbs in winter are:

Temperature. From 4 to 8 degrees of heat.
Good ventilation. Excess moisture - dangerous enemy tubers, provoking their decay and disease.
The usual places for storing bulbs are cellars, refrigerators. Some use electric cellars, which are sold in specialized stores. They are equipped with thermostats, and temperature control during their use is greatly facilitated.

Clean paper is laid at the bottom of dry boxes, the bulbs are sprinkled with sand or ash. Some growers add dried mint or garlic cloves (which should be renewed once a month) on top for extra protection.

The boxes are transferred to a well-ventilated basement; with a sharp drop in temperature, a warm blanket can be thrown over the bulbs for a short time.

Some sort dried tubers into specially prepared bags (or just old stockings) and hang them in garlands and cellars or on loggias.

Answering the question of how to properly store gladioli bulbs in a city apartment, experts advise an ordinary refrigerator.

Corms survive the winter well in the vegetable compartment in paper bags or plastic bags.

In the latter case, do not forget about ventilation - make holes in the cellophane for breathing, and always pre-wrap the bulbs with paper - by its appearance you can control the moisture content of the tubers.

On a note!

If wet spots form on the paper, the storage conditions are not suitable!

Bulb bags are sometimes also filled with a clove of garlic.

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When storing bulbs and gladiolus babies, check their condition monthly. At the first sign of the appearance of rot, fungus or sprouts, immediately adjust the storage conditions; discard diseased tubers, never keep them with healthy ones, and in the spring you will receive quality planting material for your garden.

Gladiolus in autumn preparation for winter, care, use of fertilizers, technology and timing of pruning

How to prepare gladiolus bulbs for winter - instructions

Now gladioli are divided into classes. The class depends on the size of the peduncle. Peduncles are miniature, giant, small-colored, medium-colored and large-flowered.

Gladiolus in autumn: preparation for winter, care, use of fertilizers, technology and timing of pruning

Autumn care for gladioli: preparation for winter, pruning, applying fertilizers for autumn feeding

Digging up skewer bulbs starts towards the end of September. Only warm and sunny weather is suitable for her. When digging in wet weather, there is a risk of not noticing a large number of small onions. After a successful wintering, they can disrupt the purity of the hybrid gladiolus variety.

For digging bulbs, use a shovel or fork with wide and flat teeth. This is due to the fact that over the summer a lot of young children form around the mother bulb. To capture them all, you need to retreat from the stem in a circle of at least ten centimeters. It is best to pull out dug bulbs by the leaves.

It is obligatory to sort the bulbs by size and variety. Healthy specimens no more than 4 years old, rounded, in which the height and width are approximately the same, are subject to storage. Flat bulbs should be sorted and replaced with grown children. Of these, the largest specimens are left, which bloom before the small ones.

How to protect planting material from pests

Rinse bulbs in cool running water. Then hold them for 2-3 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate or liquid laundry soap. This will prevent the development of various diseases in the future. You can also use special preparations.

You can use another option for processing bulbs. To do this, dilute 20 g of chlorophos in a bucket of water and dilute 10 g of potassium permanganate separately in another container in a liter of water. In each solution, it is necessary to hold the corms for up to 20 minutes.

Tips are the only problem with gladioli. They can climb under the scaly layer of the bulb and calmly overwinter in it. Tips affect both children and adult plants. Insects develop instantly in heat, so you need to be extremely careful not to let the planting material die.

Just in case, it is worth treating the bulbs with special preparations. Inta-vir has proven itself well, 1 tablet is taken per 10 liters of water. The bulbs are soaked for 30 minutes in a solution, and then dried for 7 days.

If you fail to find this drug, then you can process the bulbs with plain water heated to 60 ° C. Processing time - 10 minutes, then place the bulbs in cold water with a temperature of 12 ° C, and then dry them well.

Another effective way, with which you can get rid of pests - buy a powder to fight cockroaches and just sprinkle the bulbs on them. After 1 month, it is desirable to repeat the treatment. To do such a manipulation or not - decide for yourself.

There are few pests attacking gladioli, but they exist. The main enemies are slugs. They eat away the soft parts of the leaves, because of this, the decorative effect and appearance colors. In addition, slugs gnaw tubers, which leads to the death of plants.

These pests attack mainly those beds that are overgrown with grass. To avoid this, weeds are recommended to be removed regularly and in a timely manner. Along with their removal, these pests can be controlled with the help of special preparations, for example, Thunderstorm or Meta.

The best folk remedies for pest control:

salt;
mustard powder;
dark beer.

Mustard powder and table salt help well. These funds sprinkle the soil and the plants themselves. Their consumption depends on how densely the flowers are planted in the garden, and in each case it is selected individually. Salt and mustard burn the delicate skin of slugs, therefore they are a serious obstacle in their path.

Another pest that gnaws on gladiolus tubers is the bear. She is also very dangerous for these flowers, because she is able to destroy them. If there is a bear in the soil, growing gladioli will be a rather difficult task. It is better to deal with it in advance.

Against this pest there is an excellent folk remedy It's a dark beer. The best means of dealing with the bear has not yet been invented. To use it, you need to pour any dark beer into an ordinary glass, bottle or deep plate and bury it in the garden in such a way that the neck of the bottle, the edges of the glass or plate barely peek out over the garden. Better if they are slightly recessed.

The smell of beer medvedka smells a mile away. She comes to this smell, climbs into the container, as if into a trap, but she can no longer get out. After some time, in such a homemade trap, she dies.

Many flower growers love gladioli and have been growing them for more than one year. And in this article they give their proven advice to novice gardeners. Beautiful buds in summer can be seen in many areas. How abundant the flowering will be, what the size of the buds will be, depends on the preparation and germination of the bulbs.

It is important to know the timing of when to get gladioli out of the refrigerator for germination. You should also correctly determine the temperature of the soil: the most optimal is 8.. 10 degrees. Usually the soil warms up so much in April or May, so the flowers begin to germinate 15-20 days before the soil warms up.

When do you need to get gladiolus bulbs for germination from the refrigerator?

From the refrigerator (basement), gladioli are taken out for germination 2-4 weeks before planting. This must be done in the last days of March or the first days of April. Properly prepared in the fall, gladioli will turn into high-quality planting material in the spring.

During storage, the bulbs look like this:

As soon as the gladioli are taken out of the refrigerator, they need to be prepared:

carefully inspect, remove dry husks, sort, throwing away diseased, shrunken or softened heads;
if the bulb is slightly affected, the defect can be removed with a knife, but the cut place must be anointed, for which brilliant green, iodine, crushed coal are used;
in order to disinfect the gladiolus bulbs well, strengthen the roots, saturate them with moisture, they must be kept in an antibacterial solution (potassium permanganate, karbofos, boric acid) for several hours.

per 1 liter warm water vitriol - 0.3 g, boric acid and potassium permanganate - 0.2 g, cobalt nitrate - 0.1 g.

Prepared bulbs should be placed in a germination box and left at room temperature. You need to spread them evenly, sprouts up. It is desirable that they lie in a row. Gladiolus will germinate in about 2-3 weeks.

1 week before disembarkation, cutting should be carried out, and the corresponding places should be disinfected, sprinkled with charcoal, and dried.

When a sprout of 6-8 cm appears, the root tubercles or roots swell, which means that the bulb has sprouted well, and it's time to plant it in the ground.

The soil should be light, loose. Bulbs should be planted at a distance of 15 cm or more.

When gladioli bloom, you need to carefully inspect their buds and remove wilted ones in a timely manner. In the same place, flowers can grow for a maximum of 2 years, then you need to change the location.

Gladiolus corms overwinter well both in an apartment and in a private house. Of course, you need to take into account a few "nuances", otherwise all the efforts of an amateur grower will be reduced to zero.

FIRST ACTIONS AFTER DIGGING

Excavated corms of gladioli should be thoroughly washed from the ground. I usually finish digging in the first decade of October. This year the gladioli sat in the ground much longer. I dig out gladioli only with garden pitchforks. I wash all corms (with roots) from the ground with water from a hose or in a bucket of water. I immediately cut off the stem, leave a low stump, then bring the gladioli into the house. In order not to confuse the varieties, I put the corms in different containers, in which I put tags with the name of the variety.

In the house, I wash all the corms again. Then I put them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (or Maxim) for 30 minutes. After that, I take the corms out of the solution and lay them out to dry until the next day. Once again I check the condition of the planting material. Already more thoroughly. All problem areas are perfectly visible on the “skin”, slightly colored with potassium permanganate. I store healthy corms, even with small flaws, separately from the entire collection. After all the sanitary treatments, I put the gladioli according to varieties in cardboard boxes. right size. I put open boxes on kitchen cabinets. It's warm and dry there. I immediately mark the date when the corms need to be taken out and put away for winter storage in a cool place. This will happen in 30 days.

HOW AND WHEN TO REMOVE ROOTS AND OLD MOTHER CORNS?

I experimented a lot before I came to the conclusion that it is better to remove the old shriveled corm with roots not immediately, but after about 1 - 2 weeks. The dried lower part is removed easily and quickly, leaving a clean bottom without any notches on the upper replacement bulb. It makes no sense to drag this out until the end of drying. I leave the covering scales.

For storage of other types of plants that do not winter in the open field, read the article Storage of tubers and rhizomes in winter.

STORING CORS IN A COOL PLACE

In a private house, there are more suitable places where you can keep corms until spring. These are dry basements, storerooms and other premises where the air temperature is kept within plus 5 - 8 °C. There, planting material can be stored in cardboard boxes or in nets (stockings, stockings) hung from hooks. The main thing is that all the time there is a low positive air temperature. Planting material packed in a plastic bag is less likely to remain healthy. If the basement (cellar) is flooded with water, and at the same time the humidity of the air rises greatly, then the corms must be urgently removed and dried, and then a new storage place should be found for them.

In apartments or rooms, finding a suitable place is more difficult. In this case, the refrigerator comes to the rescue. Corms are placed in boxes of cookies, chocolates, tea, etc., which are wrapped in several layers of newsprint. We need paper, not plastic bags. Packages are kept in the refrigerator in boxes designed for storing vegetables. Paper can be fastened with tape or tied with a rope. It is better if the inside of the boxes is lined with paper napkins or paper towels. Under such conditions, corms breathe, stay dry and never get moldy. In polyethylene, they run the risk (with a high degree of probability) of sweating, getting wet, moldy, etc. Of course, I check the condition of the planting material several times during the winter. Some amateur gardeners dip corms in molten paraffin before storage. They consider this option more reliable. I was told that gladioli are well preserved if their corms are pollinated with wood ash before storage.

It's easier with kids. I usually put them in toothpaste boxes. If it is important for me not to confuse the varieties, then I first wrap the bulbs in paper napkins or paper handkerchiefs, on which I write the name of the variety. I store until spring in the same cool places where adult corms are located.

WHAT TO DO IF MOLD APPEARS ON CORMS?

Moisture is the most common cause of mold. Either the corms were not dried well, or moisture penetrated during storage. Such planting material must be washed with a sponge with any detergent. Tar or laundry soap works well. The mold must be washed off, the corms must be disinfected and all rotten places cut out. Slices can be processed with greenery. After that, the corms are well dried in a dry, warm place and packed again for storage. Of course, the old bags and boxes that contained gladioli are no longer used.

A few years ago I read an article where the author suggested warming up in hot water spoiled (moldy) planting material. The appearance of the article coincided with an unpleasant event: that year ground water. The paper has absorbed moisture, which has led to mold on some of the corms. Those gladioli that were cleaned of it, washed, disinfected, dried and repackaged, did not suffer at all. Treated with hot water (everything was done "according to the instructions") were not in the best condition. They lasted until spring, but later I rejected them.

In winter, gladiolus corms stored in storage need periodic inspections. It is necessary to immediately carry out a series of preventive and therapeutic measures if there is any suspicion about the condition of the planting material.

DICHLOFOS AGAINST TRIPS

Corms of gladioli can be affected by thrips. At storage temperatures above +10°C, thrips become very active and begin to greedily feed on corm juices. If the disinfection of the planting material was not thoroughly carried out in the autumn before storage, then the gladioli are at risk. All "doubtful" corms are placed in plastic bags and dichlorvos is sprayed inside. A tied bag with gladiolus corms is left for the whole day. Actellik treatment also helps.

Traditionally, garlic is considered the best remedy for thrips. For any suspicion of the presence of thrips, the corms are placed in a bag with chopped garlic. The package is tied, and after a day the corms are taken out, dried and stored.

In gladioli, there are fungal, viral and bacterial diseases, as well as physiological diseases of a non-infectious nature. Some pathogens are carried by ornamental pests. Currently, about thirty diseases of flowers and bulbs are registered, as a result of which the plants do not bloom, and in some cases die. That is why it is very important to do regular inspections of decorative plantings, as well as to carry out preventive treatment and timely treatment.

infectious diseases

In the conditions of backyard floriculture, several of the most dangerous for ornamental culture and common infectious diseases are most common:

caused by pathogenic soil fungi fusarium with It is protected in the soil for about five years, therefore it belongs to the category of the most harmful. If contaminated soil or planting material is used during planting, then at the stage of active growth, the aerial parts of the plant turn yellow and dry, starting from the lower leaves. At the next stage, the roots die off, and dry brown spots are clearly visible on the affected bulb. To prevent damage, it is necessary to observe crop rotation, dry the bulbs thoroughly and pre-plant them with Maxim or a 3% solution of potassium permanganate. Already faded plants and the soil around them are recommended to be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid;

sclerotinia also caused by soil fungi that remain viable for more than fifteen years. Plants grown in shading, on humus-rich, acidic soils are most often affected. The first signs of damage are manifested in yellowing and browning of the leaves, which then rot. Affected bulbs lose their scales, dry out and turn black. As a preventive measure, the soil is limed with dolomite flour and the soil is treated with a Bordeaux mixture. It is not recommended to apply fertilizer such as fresh manure during the pre-planting preparation of the site, and all diseased plants and planting material must be destroyed;

botrytiosis belongs to fairly common fungal diseases, and affects plants in the presence of damp and cool weather, as a result of which the leaves become covered with small brownish spots. Characteristic is the appearance of watery spotting on the petals and sagging flowers. When the pathogen spreads to the stem part, the whole plant and corms rot. For prevention, the ornamental culture is sprayed twice a month with a solution based on Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate. Planting material before storage should be treated with the drug "Maxim" or "Fundazol", and then dried thoroughly;

septoria Plants grown in areas with poor, heavy soils with a high level of acidity are most often affected. The disease manifests itself in the appearance of brown spots with a black center and edging. Then the corm is affected, on the surface of which growing spots are also formed, as a result of which the planting material acquires a black color and becomes very hard. Used to protect ornamental culture Bordeaux mixture and other fungicides. Plants affected by a fungal infection must be removed from the site in a timely manner;

bacterial scab- a real scourge of a flowering crop grown on too wet and stagnant soil, represented by clay, limestone or peat. The first sign of the disease is rotting of the neck of the plant and yellowing of the inner leaves. On the corm, oval brownish-black, shiny and smooth spots are formed. To minimize the risk of damage to gladiolus by bacterial scab, it is necessary to pre-plant the bulbs in a solution of 3% copper or iron sulfate;

bacterial cancer does not occur too often, but can cause the death of both the gladiolus and the flower crops adjacent to it. As a result of damage by soil bacteria, growths of various sizes and shapes form on the root system of an ornamental plant. All diseased plants must be immediately destroyed, and the soil and neighboring crops should be treated twice with fungicides;

Insect pests - vectors of infection

Careful cleaning measures, high-quality disinfection of garden tools, timely and competent control of viral infection vectors can significantly reduce the likelihood of gladiolus infection with viral diseases, and also makes it possible to obtain the maximum lush flowering and planting material of high quality characteristics.

Be sure to periodically spray gladiolus from thrips and diseases alternate use of solutions of copper sulfate and copper oxychloride, diluted at the rate of 20 g per bucket of water. In the presence of a very strong spread of pathogenic microflora and yellowing of the leaves, it is possible to spray the gladioli several times with a solution based on copper oxychloride, diluted at the rate of 30 g per bucket of water at room temperature.

Noncommunicable diseases

Such damaging factors most often include burns of foliage and flowers, which the plant can receive as a result of treatment with too high doses of fertilizers or fungicides. In addition, non-infectious diseases can result from a lack of boron and are manifested by twisting or cracking of the leaves, as well as iron deficiency causing chlorosis. In this case, it is necessary to feed the plants with complex fertilizers, but considering that the excessive application of nutrients is no less dangerous.

It is also important to remember that growing in too wet areas can cause the death of the root system. Such and similar symptoms of trouble can be eliminated by correcting soil conditions, melioration and following the rules for growing and caring for gladioli. If the bulbs become moldy or rotted during growth, then it is important to provide the ornamental crop with the right growing conditions. If the bulbs become moldy during storage, then you need to adjust the storage mode.

To get guaranteed abundant annual flowering of gladioli, It is imperative to adhere to several rules and recommendations:

it is important to observe crop rotation, since it is not recommended to grow gladioli in one place for more than two years;
after gladiolus, it is best to grow volatile annuals, represented by marigolds, nasturtium, mustard or calendula, which will reduce the number of pathogens of fungal infection in the soil;
it is impossible to grow an ornamental crop in unventilated areas where the development of pathogenic microflora can be observed;
for the purpose of prevention, it is recommended to spray gladiolus plantings with garlic infusion prepared from 50 g of chopped garlic and five liters of water;
in the autumn, it is advisable to disinfect plants and soil with a solution based on potassium permanganate, diluted at the rate of 3 g in five liters of warm water;
a good result is obtained by mulching plantings of ornamental crops with pine needles and sphagnum;
in the autumn period, it is necessary to remove all plant residues from the flower garden, as well as deep digging of the soil.

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Compliance with the correct agricultural practices, planting norms and terms, as well as the proper preservation of planting material, contribute to the cultivation of healthy and strong ornamental plants that perfectly resist any disease.

Gladiolus corms have low frost resistance, which is why this crop has to be grown as an annual, digging up for the winter. Even compliance with all winter storage conditions does not always allow you to save gladioli, so preparing for planting is the most important stage in growing them in a summer cottage.

Preparing gladioli for planting in spring

Watercolor-delicate and solemnly bright, simple and terry, one-color and variegated - in total there are about two hundred species of this plant in the world. Caring for them does not require special skills, with the exception of preparing gladioli for planting:

External examination and cleaning of dry integumentary scales. The beginning of pre-planting processing, which allows to reject all shrunken, damaged and rotted bulbs.
Sort by size and/or grade.
Disinfection. Treatment with bactericidal and fungicidal preparations (both chemical and natural origin). It is necessary for the destruction of spores of pathogenic fungi, pest larvae.
Germination. Helps to achieve early and friendly flowering.

What to do with gladioli after winter storage?

Gladiolus, which are being prepared for planting in accordance with all the rules, must undergo a thorough inspection. This stage helps to sort out all the bulbs that have not survived storage - rotten, dried, deformed. If the degree of damage is small, you can try to save the onion by cutting out the defect with a clean, sharp knife and disinfecting the cut with brilliant green, ash, iodine, activated charcoal or potassium permanganate. It is better to throw away specimens completely covered with brown spots.

Insufficient humidity and high temperature in the storage can lead to partial drying of the planting material. There is no need to be afraid of this, valuable bulbs can be revived. What to do if the gladiolus dried up during the winter? Short-term (30 minutes) bathing in water with the addition of hydrogen peroxide (1 tablespoon per liter), soda (1 teaspoon per liter) or solution will help save them. Produce it immediately before landing on the garden.

When to germinate gladiolus in spring?

Depending on the region in which gladiolus is grown, preparations for planting can start both at the beginning and at the end of April. The deadline for its implementation is determined by the fact that in open ground bulbs should get after it warms up to a temperature of at least + 10 ° C (April-May). It is recommended to get the tubers from the winter storage no earlier than 3 weeks before the planned planting. Earlier germination of gladiolus tubers after winter can negatively affect the quality of flowering and plant resistance to open ground conditions.

How to germinate gladioli before planting?

After inspecting, cleaning and culling the seed, they begin to germinate the gladioli before planting. To do this, the bulbs are simply laid out in a warm and dry room in one layer. You can use for this purpose a spacious cardboard box or pallet. An important condition for the proper germination of gladioli is a sufficient amount of sunlight. At the same time, direct rays should not fall on the bulbs themselves.

Unlike other plants, gladioli, which were properly prepared for planting, produce small (up to 5 cm) sprouts and do not form roots - they simply swell root tubercles, no more. Do not germinate the bulbs on a damp cloth or in the substrate. The resulting roots can break off during planting, and stunted shoots will significantly increase the time of acclimatization in the open field. And such “seedlings” will take a lot of space in the apartment.

If gladioli sprouted ahead of time?

After digging out of the ground, gladioli are at rest. Its natural duration is small - only 40 days. It can be artificially extended by right conditions storage (+10°C, 60-70% humidity). As soon as this regime is violated, the bulbs begin to grow. What to do, gladiolus began to germinate, and is it still very far from planting them in open ground? It is necessary to dry them and place them in a place with a low temperature (+ 5-7 ° C), for example, on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.

How to process gladiolus bulbs before planting?

Preparations "Fundazol", "Maxim" - soak for 40-55 minutes in a 3% solution.
Strong (dark cherry) solution of potassium permanganate - soak for 1-2 hours.
(5 grams) + potassium permanganate (1 gram) per 1 liter of water - soak overnight.
Garlic solution (100 grams of garlic juice per 1 liter of water) - leave for 2-3 hours.

Diseases of gladiolus bulbs

Even among the most caring and carefully observing all the rules of care for amateur flower growers, gladioli begin to degenerate over time: the flowers become smaller and the flowering is shorter. This is due to diseases and pests of gladioli, deeply affecting the corms and eventually spreading throughout the site:

Fungal diseases (fusarium, rot, scab). Occur as a result of the spread of fungal spores in the area. Causes them to appear high humidity and dense landings. In the initial stage of the lesion, the bulb does not stand out externally, but develops poorly and does not give a flower arrow.
Viral diseases. The pathogens are spread by sucking insects.
Pests (thrips, ticks). They feed on the juice of corms, weakening and depleting them.

The following measures help save gladioli from damage:

Careful preplant sorting and processing of bulbs. Do not plant corms with the slightest signs of damage (stains, mold, etc.). It is better to propagate gladioli with children, which are easier to disinfect.
Compliance with crop rotation. Do not plant gladioli in the same place for more than 3 years in a row.
Regular weeding. In addition to weeds, it is recommended to ruthlessly remove gladioli from the garden that have signs of a viral or fungal infection: spots and deformations on the leaves, rot, etc.

Gladiolus bulbs are moldy - what to do?

Mold on gladioli appears as a result of non-compliance with storage conditions (excess moisture, temperature changes and stagnant air). In most cases, it affects the surface of the integumentary scales without affecting the body of the bulb itself, and is easily peeled off during preparation for planting. If mold is found during winter storage, then the tubers must be treated with a strong solution of potassium permanganate or any antifungal drug, dried and removed until spring in a cool, dry place