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Blacksmith forge blueprints. Do-it-yourself blacksmith forges: the principle of operation, tips. Horn from a propane torch

Just for you. In this tutorial, I will tell you how to make a powerful mobile forging furnace. With this furnace, you can easily perform metal forging, the temperature here is more than enough. And, of course, now there will be no problem with steel hardening. And if you wish, if you come up with a forge, with the help of this device you can completely melt aluminum and other metals with a not very high melting point.

The stove is powered by coal, and in order to heat it up to the desired temperature, you will need a forced air supply. For these purposes, the author used a small electric compressor. It can be powered by a battery, so we do not need an outlet. Directly the place of burning is made of a metal barrel, also suitable gas bottle. And the frame in which the compressor and battery are installed is made of boards, it is simple and practical. So, let's consider in order how to make a forge furnace.

Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- ;
- copper or others metal pipes, as well as corners;
- tap;
- boards;
- plastic brackets for pipes;
- self-tapping screws, bolts with nuts;
- steel barrel or gas cylinder;
- steel corner;
- aluminum corner;
- foil;
- glue (to glue the foil);
- heat-resistant sealant;
- heat-resistant paint.

List of tools:
- drill;
- drilling machine;
- Bulgarian;
- vice;
- gas-burner;
- screwdriver;
- welding;
- a hacksaw for wood or a cutting machine.

Forging Furnace Manufacturing Process:

Step one. Frame assembly
To assemble the frame, we need boards. We cut them into the desired pieces, and then assemble the frame with self-tapping screws. If desired, glue, sealant, and so on can be applied to the joined surfaces. I note right away that the original design was redone, as there were problems due to high temperature. The frame is made only for equipment, and the furnace itself was made of metal in the future.
To strengthen the structure, the author pulled it together with long bolts and nuts. They will also serve as a support for pallets.







Step two. Fastener for
To install the compressor, we will make an adapter for it, into which the bow will be inserted. To make it, we need a board, as well as a drill with special nozzles. In the end, we just need to cut a “washer” out of wood.
We fix the made washer in the right place of the frame with the help of self-tapping screws.








Step three. Collecting pipes
To transport air to the destination, the author decided to use copper pipes. It's not very a good option, since copper transfers heat well, so the length of the pipes should be maximum. Otherwise, heat can reach the compressor and melt the plastic. Pipes can be used metal, and you can simply bend them into the desired length of the coil. The author assembles the desired design, soldering is used to connect the parts.








Step four. Making a battery clamp
We will power the system from a battery, so to install it, you need to make a clamp. For these purposes, we will need an aluminum plate. With the help of a vise and a special nozzle, the author forms it in the form of the letter "P". However, this can be done with a regular vise or even pliers if you have a good eye. Drill holes for fastening the clamp with screws to the base.
We drill holes at the base, on the other hand, the author installs nuts. That's all, now the clamp will be very convenient to tighten using the screws.










Step five. Finishing the frame with foil
Initially, the author planned to install several pallets on a wooden case, on which coals would burn. And to further protect the wood, he glued it with foil. Now, even if the coal falls from the pallet, the wood should not catch fire, and the foil itself works as a heat shield.








Step six. Installing the stuffing
First of all, we install pipes; plastic holders were used for their fastening. This is not a very reliable option if the pipes get very hot. We also install a compressor, for its fastening the author used an aluminum corner.
At the end, we fix the battery, earlier we made a clamp for it from an aluminum plate.










Step seven. The final stage of assembly and testing (first attempt)
Now we will install pallets into which we will pour coals, the author has two of them. We drill a hole in the pallets and insert a steel pipe that will supply air to the furnace. The pallets are in a hanging state, they rest on two bolts installed across the frame.












That's all, now the oven can be tested! We fall asleep coals and kindle with a burner or liquid for ignition. The oven worked perfectly, but there were problems. The pallets heat up so much that they burned the foil under them, and the heat also began to burn the wood. As a result, this design collapsed, and it was decided to redo it.






Step eight. Making a furnace from a cylinder
The author cut off the part of the frame on which the pallets were located. It was decided to make the furnace more reliable. As a result, a metal barrel was taken as the starting material, a gas cylinder is also suitable. If you use a balloon, do not forget to clean it well of the contents, there are a lot of instructions and recommendations on the Internet for this, otherwise everything can end in an explosion and serious injuries.










First of all, we clean the balloon from paint, for this the author uses a grinder with a suitable nozzle. Next, cut off the bottom of the balloon at a suitable height. At the end, we cut a “window” in the workpiece through which you will use the oven.

Step nine. Manufacturing of mounting brackets
To attach the oven to wooden structure with a compressor, you need two corners. We cut the corner to the desired length, bend the edges at the desired angle. Also, to strengthen the connection, you will need two steel plates.

Drill holes in the corners and plates for fastening parts with self-tapping screws. In addition, the author welded pieces of pipes to the corners, resulting in excellent legs.












Step ten. We make a "tray" for the furnace and install
The pallet is needed so that coals burn on it, to which air enters from below, these are a kind of grate. For these purposes, we need sheet steel, and it should be as thick as possible, since thin steel will quickly burn out from high temperature. From steel, you need to cut a circle of such a diameter so that it can go inside the furnace as tightly as possible.

In blacksmithing, a forge is used to warm up and heat up metal blanks before heat treatment. The operating temperature in this device rises to 1200 degrees. By design, the device can be stationary and mobile (that is, it can be placed directly in a specially equipped forge or transferred to a place convenient for work). For industry, the equipment is equipped with various devices; for domestic use, the hearth is made in the simplest version.

Features of a household blacksmith forge

Due to the high cost of melting plants, not every user can buy such equipment for special purposes. For household needs assembling a gas forge with your own hands is easy subject to the correct determination of the form, power and structure of the pressurization system. A simple household forge for artistic forging or casting from non-ferrous metal can be assembled from several fireclay bricks and sheet steel.

Making a horn at home for working with ferrous metal is not difficult. Craft the simplest design it is possible from a metal container, in the side of which it is necessary to make a hole for a gas burner. The fuel supply system can be assembled from a piece of pipe and a coupling; long bolts are suitable for the support structure under the tank. The lining of the gas chamber is carried out by filling a solution of alabaster or gypsum, sand and water.

The horn must be equipped with a protective cover, a ceramic tube or a suitable bottle. After lining and drilling a gas supply hole, the device is installed in a convenient place, but at a distance from flammable materials. The advantages of the design include the ability to move the furnace, adjust the degree of heating of the workpiece, which is especially convenient when working with different forging materials.

The principle of operation of the installation

Before proceeding with the assembly of the thermal installation, you need to understand the principles of operation of a homemade forge for forging metal to simplify the design of the furnace for home use. The operation of the device is based on the energy yield during the combustion of a mixture of carbon and oxygen, the percentage of metal release in molten form. During the smelting process, carbon stops the oxidation reaction of the metal, the constant blowing of gas into the fuel quickly increases the temperature in the hearth.

The process of heating metal requires certain skills and specific knowledge. It is not enough to assemble a mini-horn with your own hands, you need to learn how to control the supply of oxygen to the fuel, the volume of which should be no more than 95%. If the workpiece overheats, carburization of the metal occurs, the steel becomes brittle, turning into cast iron.

When developing a drawing of a future forging tool, special attention should be paid to the type of energy substance that affects the design of the hearth. By type of fuel for the furnace is:

  • gas (butane, propane);
  • liquid (diesel oil, fuel oil);
  • solid (charcoal, coke);
  • mixed (gas-liquid).

Depending on the planned work and the size of the workpiece, the thermal furnace can be with an open or closed hearth zone. The home master should remember that household gas can be used in the hearth only after preliminary purification from sulfur by the method of “running” through liquid naphthalene. Products made of metal heated by a gas burner cannot be used as loaded parts.

The main requirement for the security of the wizard is the installation of a powerful forced ventilation system, even if a household soldering machine that runs on bottled gas is used for the forge device. The device will allow you to manufacture decorative elements interior and exterior in own garage.

Making a stove from a blowtorch

When making a forging forging with your own hands, you need to install a blowtorch in a recess, along the perimeter of which lay fireclay bricks with a grate. When laying refractory bricks, it is necessary to observe the distance between the enclosing elements in order to ensure the entry of air masses into the combustion chamber. The angle of the blocks relative to each other building material determined by the master.

Charcoal or coke is poured into the recess, equipped with bricks on the grate, a pipe is put on the blowtorch, which is brought under the grate. The blank for forging is placed in the gap between brickwork, coal concentrate is ignited from below. To remove smoke, a probe, tent or chimney is installed above the grate.

Solid propellant forge device

The simplest model solid propellant device for a private forge is an outdoor open oven, which does not require the installation of a ventilation system. The construction of the structure provides for the pouring of reinforced concrete base, at the heart of the structure it is necessary to lay a wall brick. The table is set at a comfortable height, a hole for the blower is left in one wall.

The mountain hearth is laid out from fireclay bricks supported by steel corners; a cavity for the grate is left in the middle part of the structure. A chimney or a probe will help to ensure sufficient draft in the hearth, the air supply system is mounted at the final stage construction works. The installation of an electric fan in the chimney or the installation of bellows will help to strengthen the draft.

In a home forge, a container for hardening parts and a gas-air chamber are not mandatory elements. They can be useful in the case when, in the process of working with damask steel, it is required to carry out thermal or shock hardening. In the gas-air chamber is carried out:

  • drying and heating of oxygen;
  • filtration of oxygen from condensate and impurities;
  • mixing air with filler substances for steel alloying.

To melt precious metals and create an alloy of non-ferrous metals, it is necessary to make a crucible from a heat-resistant material. Made in the form of a cap, the device allows you to increase operating temperature in the oven without the risk of overheating the workpiece and the formation of soot.

Home forge on gas

For the manufacture of a simple home forge on gas, you can use parts from an old bicycle. If on lathe to turn the "asterisk" from the gearbox, the device can operate on butane or propane, heat closed small-volume horns. An important condition for using a portable design is the ban on the operation of the burner with acetylene, since the high temperature of the flame can burn the former "asterisk", and the furnace will simply explode.

It is not difficult to assemble such a device, while a home-made forging forge is not much inferior to industrial ones, but it is much cheaper. The main thing is to observe the safety rules in the manufacture and use.

Do-it-yourself forging has not lost its relevance at the present time. To give the metal plastic properties, it is necessary to heat it. The blacksmith's forge successfully copes with this task. Its main function is to gradually increase the temperature at which the metal can be forged. The forging temperature is about 1200 0 C. There are several types of horns, each of which can be purchased at a specialized store, but in order to save money, you can make a horn with your own hands.

There are 3 classifications of forges for forging with your own hands:

  • by design features;
  • by fuel used;
  • depending on the size of the surface.

Depending on the design, closed or open forges are distinguished. Depending on what fuel is used for the hearth, there are hearths operating on fuel oil, coal and gas hearths. Small, medium, large structures are distinguished as the basis for dividing furnaces by surface size.

The use of coal-fired forges is an outdated forging procedure. This is due to a number of disadvantages of this type of fuel.

Coal heats the hearth unevenly and requires significant consumption. A coal-fired device has a low efficiency.

In terms of application, furnaces operating on fuel oil are also becoming obsolete. But this type, if not used in industrial volumes, can be successfully used at home.

Making a gas forge does not take a lot of time.

In this case, it is enough to take steel scraps and 6 fireclay bricks.

Forge structure

Any homemade forging forge should include the following components:

  • duct;
  • valve;
  • crucible;
  • firebox with grate;
  • umbrella;
  • chimney or gas outlet (depending on the type of hearth);
  • window for feeding blanks;
  • air drainage;
  • hardening bath;
  • horn table;
  • air chamber;
  • forge tent;
  • gas chamber.

Making a forge with your own hands

It is recommended to make forges of a closed type. They are made up of constituent parts: masonry (lining), support frame and racks, chimney, hearth, fan and damper. To create a homemade forge, you will need the following materials:

  • profiled metal-roll made of steel;
  • coating;
  • steel in the form of thick sheets;
  • sheet steel for exterior finish;
  • steel chimneys;
  • refractory brick.

Profile rolled metal is used for the manufacture of support posts, frames and dampers. The coating used must be strong enough to withstand the action of fire. The same requirements apply to thick steel. It must also be well protected from high temperatures and fire.

Manufacturing of the hearth support frame

At the first stage of arrangement of the hearth, it is required to make its support frame. First of all, a place is chosen where the forge itself will be located. It is important that the structure itself is located near the wall of the room, not adjacent to other rooms. Otherwise, the master will have a problem installing the chimney and fan.

According to safety requirements, the hearth should be located 1 meter from the main wall. It is important that the wall itself does not consist of materials that can easily ignite.

Installation of the support frame involves the use of drawings and diagrams. It is necessary to compare in advance the dimensions of the future hearth and the dimensions of the workshop in which it is supposed to be installed.

For the manufacture of racks, steel grade 09G2S is used, which contains less than 2.5% of alloying elements (, chromium, nitrogen). Such steel is low-alloyed, which is expressed in its strength and speed of welding.

The support legs for the frame are welded. After the frame is ready, holes are made in it, through which parts of the outer finish of the hearth will be attached in the future.

Making vaults and hearths

The vaults of the forge, that is, his top part must be made of materials capable of withstanding very high temperatures. It is on the vaults that the entire load will fall. Dinas and chamotte are the most widely used materials for arches.

Dinas is one of the highly refractory materials. It can withstand temperatures of the order of 1790 0 C. Dinas contains a significant proportion of silicon dioxide. Therefore, this material has a milky color. Forges, which are based on dinas bricks, are particularly durable. For this reason, dinas is considered one of the most expensive horn materials.

Chamotte is made taking into account the requirements of GOST 390-79. Chamotte, which meets the requirements of the specified GOST, and ordinary brick are quite similar in appearance. However, the brick wears out quickly and begins to collapse at a temperature of 1000 0 C. High-quality fireclay bricks should have low porosity. Such a brick should have a milky cream color, and its weight should be at least 5 kg. Most often, fireclay bricks of the ShA, ShPD brands are used.

The masonry for the hearth should contain the following elements in proportions:

  • dinas or fireclay in crushed form (40% of the total);
  • refractory clay (60% of the total).

The chimney, like the fan, is laid out in strips of steel around their entire perimeter. Masonry (lining) together with the damper are made according to a similar mechanism as the vaults. The masonry is additionally covered with sheets with rigid ribs, which allows it to retain heat. The oven itself will not give too much a large number of heat to the outside, while increasing the rate of internal heating.

When all the work is done, the master needs to dry the forge. Then you need to check the fan, after which you can proceed to a trial check of the operation of the forge. If the design is working properly, then you can start forging metal.


Blacksmith masterpieces have always enjoyed special love and popularity. And if there is strength, desire and opportunity, then you can always engage in this profitable craft within the territory of your private home. Moreover, a home-made brick horn turns out to be very simple to do on your own.

Purpose of equipment

In any forge workshop, the forge is used for a number of important operations - to heat the metal immediately before forging, to cement it, or to do other heat treatment operations. Even outside the production hall, it allows you to get temperatures up to 1200 degrees. The most amazing thing is that such equipment can be made by yourself - in its simplified version, it can be assembled in about thirty minutes, using only six fireclay bricks and a few pieces of steel. At the same time, both temperature and quality indicators of the heating process itself will meet the requirements for fine art forging and even melting.

Horns are divided into open and closed. In the first version, the source is heated in a special space-chamber.

For the second type, fuel will be poured directly onto the grate itself, and air will be supplied from below (it is convenient to work with large workpieces on it).

How will homemade equipment work? The operation of any (both industrial and home) such equipment is based on the principle of a chemical reaction that gives the combustion of carbon. This element is capable of literally “greedily” wanting to recombine with oxygen (which was noted in metallurgy). Ores of iron and other metals are oxides and their compounds. When heated, oxygen goes to carbon, and the metal begins to stand out in a free form.

However, you need to ensure that the metal itself does not burn out - overexposed, it will simply become overdried (this is, for example, cast iron).

That is why it is important to regulate the flow of air into the furnace. And this cannot be done without a properly built structure.

How the bugle works

The industrial apparatus has somewhat different homemade device. Before proceeding to self-manufacturing such a product, you need to study its basis:

  1. Through a nozzle (otherwise called a tuyere), air enters the chamber space.
  2. Refractory bricks will maintain the necessary thermal power.
  3. The grates will hold the used fuel above the air chamber.
  4. A source of fuel will be loaded into the forge nest.
  5. Another brick will form the frame of the device.
  6. A fan supplies air to the crucible.
  7. The overall frame is usually made of metal.
  8. Air chamber.
  9. Ash pan.
  10. Air pipe.
  11. Casing.

Of course, in order to comply with all of the above, an ordinary person does not have enough knowledge and means. But a more simplified version is quite realistic to install on its own.

Horn made of bricks: a simple closed option

A temporary forge is easily built from available improvised means. For this you will need:

  • six refractory bricks;
  • soldering lamp;
  • homemade grate (grate) made of steel strips with a thickness of at least 3 mm.

All work must be carried out in a pre-designed fireproof place. The correct sequence of steps is as follows:

  1. The bottom "layer" of bricks is laid (two pieces).
  2. Then two cut drainpipes are laid on them, on which a grate is placed in such a way that a gap is still visible between it and the bricks from below.
  3. On the grate, you need to slightly bend the transverse rails - this will help them capture the flame of a heated blowtorch and already direct it straight up.
  4. Two side bricks are laid (these will be walls).
  5. On them, similarly to the lower ones, a pair of the remaining upper ones will be located.
  6. Coke (coal) is poured onto the grate and a blowtorch (already heated) is placed in front of the mountain itself. From its flame coals flare up and further burning is supported. Now it remains only to find the optimal direction for the flame, so that the output has a very high temperature.
  7. For safety reasons, it is better to shield the blowtorch from the hot forge with some screen made of non-combustible material.

Parts manufacturing

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The working surface will be a table - that is, the base of the hearth, where it will place the hearth with fuel. It is on it that metal blanks are heated. This design is usually very heavy. It is easy to make: for example, you can make a metal cover in 4 mm steel sheet.
How is the grid made? You can “adapt” an old cast-iron skillet for this (only before that you need to drill a few holes with a 10 mm diameter). Alternatively, a wheel rim is also suitable.
After completing work with the grate, we adjust it by inserting it into the hole in the table. To better “fit”, the brick can even be slightly filed (after soaking it in water). The height of such a table can be chosen arbitrary, but it is better to do this at the level of the master's belt.

Gas options

Is it possible to replace coal (usually coke) and a blowtorch with some other analogues? For example, it could be a gas burner. In industry, yes, it is easy for the simple reason that the monogases used there are specially designed for such purposes (they consist of a specially selected mixture). But household gas will not give optimal air heating in use, which can heat the metal. Moreover, in household burner there is an admixture of sulfur, which can simply “kill” all the operational properties of the metal (for the reverse process, everything will have to be remelted). It also "poisons" steel and sulfur from wood.
Of course, this can be fought. Only ways are somewhat "exotic":

  1. Pass gas from the cylinder through a container with naphthalene before feeding it to the burner.
  2. Heat parts that are not very responsible and subject to stress with such a gas (these can be any decorative art elements of forging).

How to use "homemade"

homemade brick horn

An additional supply of air blowing can be provided using a foot drive (usually mechanical). It can be replaced with both a fan and a vacuum cleaner. As for the latter, it can be said that it is important here that the speed controller be present and make little noise.
The brick horn is almost ready. Now it is important to learn how to use it correctly:

  1. The forging itself will begin with pouring fuel onto the grate area. Although many blacksmiths act on this basis: the blanks are placed on the coals themselves, and another layer is added on top (this allows a vault to form inside the coal and create the necessary enormous temperature).
  2. Wood fuel is still allowed, but for this you will have to install one ring on the forge (height 15 cm and diameter 20 cm). A vertical cut is made inside the ring and the same on the other side.
  3. So as it burns wood waste will fall down, and in the lowest part the optimum temperature will be set for working with a metal product. If you plan to work with large workpieces, it is better to increase the working surface - for this it is enough to make a special removable table of the required size from the corners.
  4. An extractor hood will also need to be installed above the blacksmith's mini-workshop - such a box can either be purchased or made independently.
  5. The workpiece selected for forging must be buried in already hot coal, where it is aged to about a light orange color (this is an indicator that the temperature has also approached about a thousand degrees). It is impossible to hold blanks for too long - this will only worsen their mechanical properties and make the metal too brittle.
  6. For forging, a hammer weighing up to one kilogram is used. You need to work in special protective glasses - this will prevent hot scale from getting into your eyes.
  7. As an anvil, you can use any massive metal thing - a sledgehammer or even a piece of rail.

Homemade forge will even help to make welding- only in this case, the parts must be heated to white heat (and this is already a temperature of at least 1300 degrees) and overlapped. But for this, it is better to use low-carbon steel materials.
On such equipment, you can even solder. For such parts, they are preliminarily wired and coated with borax (or flux) and then sent to the furnace to be heated to a temperature of 900 ° - this will be seen by the orange color of the metal. It remains only to bring pieces of brass into the soldering places and wait until they spread along the seam.
With the help of such homemade equipment you can make grates, fireplace tongs, decorative door and gate hinges, and even a candlestick. The assortment will depend only on the desire of the master behind the mountain.
For a more detailed disclosure of the topic, we recommend watching a video on making a simple forge:

I am fond of blacksmithing and already long time I wanted to bring some of it to my suburban garage. After watching several thematic videos, I understood what to do, but did not find any step by step instructions on this topic, so I decided to write down for you how to make a forge forge with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself mini-forge assembly time from start to finish is about an hour and a half.

Step 1: Gathering the necessary things

You will need:

  • Can
  • wooden block
  • Pipe connector - 1.5 * 5 cm
  • Two L-brackets
  • Two wood screws to secure the brackets to the wood block
  • A pair of small metal screws with washers and nuts to secure the jar to the brackets
  • Sand
  • gypsum
  • Large bag for mixing plaster and sand
  • Conventional propane torch with spiral gas nozzle
  • Protective glasses
  • Fire extinguisher - just in case

Step 2: Preparing the Jar

Drill two holes about 1.5 cm from each edge of the jar.

On the opposite side of the holes, about 2-3 cm from the back of the jar, drill a 1.5 cm hole for the pipe connector, at a slight downward angle.

Step 3: Screw the Brackets to the Wood Block

Measure the distance between the holes in the jar and screw the brackets to the tree accordingly.

Step 4: Attach the jar to the brackets

Secure the jar to the brackets using screws, washers and nuts.

Step 5: Insert a Pipe Connector into the Jar

Just screw it inside, everything should look like in the photo: link. Try to think over the position of the tube so that when the burner fire begins to flow through it, it does not rest against the walls of the vessel, but smoothly exits the tube and twists in the jar - this will increase the efficiency of the melting installation.

Step 6: Create the Heat Resistant Filler


Mix gypsum and sand in equal proportions, add enough water to achieve the consistency of wet clay. We used a 350 ml plastic mug and in our experience for a large tin we advise mixing 3 mugs of sand and gypsum and adding 1 - 1.5 mugs of water to the mixture.

You need to work very quickly, as the mixture begins to instantly set and harden.

Stuff the jar 3/4 full, and then poke a hole in the middle with a radius of about 4 cm (for example, using a spoon), leaving walls about 2 cm thick. Choose a wider cavity at the back (bottom) of the jar to create a better zone heat retention.

Use the back of a spoon or other thin object to clean the protruding pipe connector from the sand/gypsum mixture. Clean all surfaces with a damp cloth and let the mixture stand for about 30 minutes.

Later I came up with the idea that you could stuff the pipe connector with paper, and to create a hole in the jar, use a toilet paper tube and stuff heat-resistant mixture around it, and then all the paper would just burn on the first calcination.