Climate technology and, in particular, split systems, which are habitually called air conditioners, help to survive the summer heat and stuffiness. The equipment is not cheap, but the worst thing is that for its installation it is required to pay an amount slightly less than for the equipment. Because many think about self-assembly. Installing an air conditioner with your own hands is possible, but there are many little things and features, ignorance of which leads to rapid wear of the equipment. Detailed step-by-step instruction will help you get things right.

Location selection

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands begins with determining the location of the equipment. Since split systems consist of two or more blocks, you will have to choose a place for both. In this case, it is necessary to take into account how cold air will spread in a house or apartment, as well as take into account technical requirements.

Let's start with technical requirements. When choosing the location of the indoor unit, we take into account the following requirements:

• from the block to the ceiling - at least 15 cm (for some manufacturers, at least 20-30 cm);
• to the wall on the side - at least 30 cm;
• to the obstacle against which the flow of cold air will break - at least 150 cm.

The outdoor unit is usually placed near a window or on an open balcony, if there is one. On a glazed balcony / loggia, installation on a fence (if it has sufficient bearing capacity) or next to a wall is possible. If you live on the first or second floor of a high-rise building, outdoor unit they try to put it above the level of the window - away from passers-by. On higher floors, it can be placed under a window or on the side.

If the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands is planned in a private house, a place is usually chosen based on the bearing capacity of the walls. If there is a ventilated facade, you can use a special mount or hang the unit on the plinth, if any.

When choosing the location of the split system blocks, you must also remember that in most cases the minimum and maximum distance between the blocks is normalized. Specific figures vary by manufacturer. For example, the minimum distance can be 1.5 m, 2.5 m ( different models Daikin) and even 3 meters (Panasonic). For some manufacturers, the minimum length is not regulated, that is, it can be any. In this case, you can install the blocks "back to back". Installers call this installation method a “sandwich”.

Slightly easier is the situation with the maximum distance between two blocks. It is usually 6 meters. It may be more, but then additional refueling of the system with freon will be required, and these are additional costs, and considerable ones. Therefore, they try to invest in the required 6 meters.

What you need for self-assembly

You probably know how much it costs to install an air conditioner by specialists. When asked where such prices come from, because the work is only 3 hours, they answer that very expensive equipment and its depreciation makes up a significant share of the cost. This may be true, but most of this equipment may already be on the farm. The exception is a vacuum pump, but many crews do without it, since a normal one really costs a lot, but a bad one is of no use.

Equipment

So, to install an air conditioner with your own hands, you will need the following equipment:

For an ideal installation, a vacuum pump is needed, but usually there is nowhere to take it and on tracks up to 6 meters they do without it.

materials

To connect and install two blocks of split systems, you will need the following consumables:

This is all that is needed to install the air conditioner with your own hands.

Installation procedure and features of the work

AT self installation split systems is nothing super-complicated, but there are a lot of nuances that can affect the durability and quality of the equipment. First of all, before starting work, you should carefully read the installation and operating instructions that come with the equipment. You compensate for the time spent by knowing exactly what and how to do with your air conditioner, because there are some nuances.

Start - mount the blocks

Before starting all work, it is worth looking for hidden wiring or heating pipes in the intended installation site. Getting into them at work is very sad. Further goes already actually installing the air conditioner with your own hands. You need to start with the installation of the indoor unit. On the selected place we place a plate for its fastening. The block must hang strictly horizontally without the slightest deviation. Therefore, we carefully approach the marking and fastening.

We apply the plate, set it according to the level, mark the places for fasteners. We drill holes, insert plastic plugs under the dowels, hang the plate and fix it with dowels. We especially carefully fasten the lower part of the plate - there are latches that hold the block, so they must be firmly fixed. No loopholes. Then check the horizontal position again.

Having estimated where the track will be located (it should go at an inclination of at least 1 cm per meter - for normal drainage installation), we begin to drill a hole in outer wall. We also drill the hole with a slope - again, so that the condensate normally leaves (the angle can be greater than that of the route).

The minimum hole diameter is 5 cm. If there is no drill of this size, you can make several holes of a smaller diameter, bring out not a common bundle of communications, but each tube / cable separately. In any case, it is better to drill two holes - one for copper and electrical cable, the second for drainage tube. It must be laid below the rest - so that it does not numb on communications in an emergency.

If two units are mounted back to back, the hole must be strictly aligned (measure on your own unit where the connection ports are)

Then install the brackets for the outdoor unit. If we are talking about a high-rise building, you will need climbing equipment and skills to work at height. This block must also hang strictly horizontally, so we also use the level when marking the holes. When mounting the brackets, we install fasteners in each hole, no matter how many there are - this is a prerequisite. Standard fasteners - anchors 10 * 100 mm. More is possible, less is highly undesirable.

After the brackets are fixed, expose the outdoor unit. We also fix the block in all the fasteners that are. This is the only way to ensure that it stays in place under any conditions.

Laying communications

Two blocks are connected by an electrical wire, two copper tubes. Also, a drainage tube is brought out through the wall. All these communications must be properly selected, connected, laid and fixed.

Copper tubes

We start with copper pipes. One larger diameter, the other smaller. Dimensions are indicated in the instructions for the air conditioner. We cut off a piece of the required length with a pipe cutter, process the edges from burrs with a special tool, straightening and leveling the cut. Use ordinary saw undesirable, like a file to remove a burr - there will definitely be sawdust inside the pipe, which will enter the system and quickly destroy the compressor.

Heat-insulating tubes are put on the prepared pipes. Moreover, the thermal insulation must be continuous and pass inside the wall as well. The joints of the pieces of thermal insulation must be glued with metallized tape, achieving a very tight fit of the edges. The quality of thermal insulation is important, since condensation will form on the non-insulated sections of the pipes, and it can drain inside the wall, causing frozen streaks, destroying the wall.

Copper pipes wrapped in thermal insulation must be passed through a hole in the wall. Before that, it is imperative that the edge that will be inserted into the wall be carefully sealed so that dust does not get inside the pipe (or it is better to plug both ends securely immediately after cutting and leave the plugs before starting the connection). This is very important point as the dust will quickly damage the compressor.

Cable and drainage

The situation is simpler with an electric cable. Each wire is terminated with special lugs, installed on conductors that have been stripped of insulation and crimped with tongs. The prepared cable is connected according to the diagram, which is in the instructions.

On the indoor and outdoor units, above the ports for connecting copper pipes, there is a removable plate, under which there are connectors for connecting the cable. Before you start installing the split system yourself, remove the plates, consider what and where you need to connect - it will be easier to work later. Especially with an outdoor unit.

Connecting the drain pipe is generally simple: it is connected to the appropriate outlet on the indoor unit and led out through the wall. The length of this tube should be such that it ends at a distance of 60-80 cm from the wall. Laying the drainage pipe should be done with a slope towards the exit to the street. Slope not less than 1 cm per meter long. More is possible, less is not.

The tube must be fixed every meter so that sagging does not occur in it. Condensation then accumulates in them, which may end up on your floor or on furniture. When you pass the tube through a hole in the wall, it is also better to muffle it with something.

Indoors, pipes and cables are usually wrapped with metallized tape into a single bundle. Then they are fixed to the wall in several places, a plastic box is attached on top. Usually it is taken in white or a color suitable for finishing.

If you wish, you can hide all the tubes in the wall - gouge the track in the wall, lay it there and, after checking the performance, wall it up. But this is a rather risky option, since in order to repair something you will need to disassemble the wall.

Connecting blocks

Here, in general, there are no special secrets. The communications stretched through the hole in the wall are connected to the appropriate connectors. There are no problems with connecting the cable - connect the wires of the same color to the terminals that are already connected to them. In this case, you can't really go wrong.

If the height difference in the installation of blocks exceeds 5 meters, it is necessary to make a loop to catch the oil (we lay it in this way copper pipes) dissolved in freon. If the drop is lower, we do not make any loops.

Drainage

There are two ways to divert drainage from the split system - into the sewer or just outside, out the window. The second method is more common with us, although it is not very correct.

Connecting the drain tube is also easy. To the exit drainage system indoor unit (a tube with a plastic tip at the bottom of the unit), the corrugated hose is easily stretched. To keep it secure, you can tighten the connection with a clamp.

The same is the case with the drainage from the outdoor unit. Exit it at the bottom. Often they leave everything as it is, and the water just drips down, but it's probably better to put on a drainage hose too and take moisture away from the walls.

Outdoor Unit Drainage

If not a hose is used, but polymer pipe, it will be necessary to select an adapter that will allow you to connect the outlet of the air conditioner and the tube. You will have to watch on the spot, because situations are different.

When laying a drainage pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns and certainly not to allow sagging - condensate will accumulate in these places, which is not good at all. As has been said more than once, the tube is laid out with a slope. Optimal - 3 mm per 1 meter, minimum - 1 mm per meter. Throughout it is fixed to the wall, at least every meter.

Freon circulation system

It is somewhat more difficult with connecting copper pipes. They are carefully laid out along the walls, avoiding kinks and creases. For bending, it is better to use a pipe bender, but you can get by with a spring one. In this case, sharp turns should also be avoided, but in order not to bend the tubes.

The ports on the outdoor unit look like this. Same on the inside.

From the beginning, we connect the tubes in the indoor unit. On it, we twist the nuts from the ports. As the nuts loosen, a hiss is heard. It's nitrogen coming out. This is normal - nitrogen is pumped in at the factory so that the insides do not oxidize. When the hissing stops, take out the plugs, remove the nut, put it on the tube, and then start rolling.

rolling

First, remove the plugs from the pipes and check the edge. It should be smooth, round, without burrs. If the section is not round during cutting, use a calibrator. This is a small device that can be found in the forehead shop. It is inserted into the pipe, scrolled, aligning the section.

The edges of the tubes are carefully aligned for 5 cm, after which the edges are flared so that they can be connected to the inlet / outlet of the blocks, creating a closed system. The correct execution of this part of the installation is very important, since the freon circulation system must be airtight. Then refueling the air conditioner will not be needed soon.

When flaring, hold the pipe with the hole down. Again, so that copper particles do not get inside, but spill out onto the floor. In the holder, it is clamped so that it sticks out 2 mm outward. That's right, no more, no less. We clamp the tube, put the flaring cone, twist it, applying solid efforts (the tube is thick-walled). The flaring is finished when the cone goes no further. We repeat the operation on the other side, then with the other tube.

If you have not rolled pipes before, it is better to practice on unnecessary pieces. The edge should be smooth, with a clear continuous border.

Port connection

We connect the flared edge of the pipe to the corresponding outlet, tighten the nut. No additional gaskets, sealants and the like should be used (forbidden). For this, they take special tubes made of high-quality copper so that they provide sealing without additional funds.

You need to make a serious effort - about 60-70 kg. Only in this case, the copper will flatten out, squeeze the fitting, the connection will become almost monolithic and precisely sealed.

The same operation is repeated with all four outputs.

Vacuuming - why and how to do it

The last stage, which ends with the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands, is the removal of air and moisture, argon residues from the system. During installation, humid air from the room or from the street fills the copper pipes. If it is not removed, it will enter the system. As a result, the compressor will work with a greater load, it will heat up more.

The presence of moisture also adversely affects the performance of the system. The fact is that freon, which is filled with air conditioners, contains a certain amount of oil to lubricate the elements from the inside. This oil is hygroscopic, but saturated with water, it lubricates the insides less effectively, and this leads to their premature wear.

From all this it follows that the system will work without air removal, but not for very long and with possible shutdown due to overheating (if there is such an automation).

There are two ways to remove air from the system: using a vacuum pump or some amount of freon released from the outdoor unit (it is charged at the factory and has some excess freon - just in case).

The "puff" method

On ports outdoor unit unscrew the valve plugs (in the photo they are indicated by arrows).

We will carry out operations with the lower port (larger diameter), which sticks out perpendicular to the body. Under the cover there is a socket for a hexagon, we select a key that is suitable in size.

Under the cover is a valve with a hexagon socket

Next, with this key, turn the valve 90 ° for one second, return it to its previous position. We let some freon into the system, it created excess pressure. We press a finger on the spool, which is located on the same port. By this we release a mixture of freon and gases located there. Press for literally seconds. Part of the mixture should remain so as not to start a new portion of air inside.

You can repeat 2-3 times, no more, the second time you can turn the valve located above. With a track of 2-3 meters - you can 3 times, with a length of 4 meters - only two. Freon is not enough for more.

When the air is practically removed, we screw the plug onto the outlet with the spool (filling), open the control valves (under the hexagon) completely, launching the freon into the system. We coat all joints with soapy foam to make sure that they are airtight. You can run.

Vacuum pump

This operation requires a vacuum pump, tube high pressure, a group of two manometers - high and low pressure.

Without opening the valves on the control valves, we connect the hose from the vacuum pump to the inlet with the spool, turn on the equipment. It should work 15-30 minutes. During this time, all air, vapors, nitrogen residues are drawn out.

Then the pump is turned off, the pump valve is closed but not disconnected and left for another 15-20 minutes. All this time it is necessary to observe the readings of manometers. If the system is tight, there is no change in pressure, the pressure gauge needles froze in place. If the arrows change their position, there is a leak somewhere and it needs to be fixed. You can find it with soap suds and tighten the connection (usually the problem is at the point where the copper pipes are connected to the outlets of the blocks).

If everything is fine, without disconnecting the pump hose, fully open the valve, which is located below. Some sounds are heard inside the system - freon fills the system. Now, with gloves, quickly twist the hose of the vacuum pump - a certain amount of ice freon can escape from the valve, and you don’t need frostbite. Now we completely unscrew the valve at the top (where a thinner tube is connected).

Why in that order? Because when filling with freon, the system is under pressure, which quickly closes the filling port when the pump is disconnected. That's all, the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is completed, you can turn it on.

In fairness, it must be said that such an operation - vacuuming - is carried out only in Russia and neighboring countries. In the same Israel where air conditioners work all year round, do nothing of the sort. Why is a matter for thought.

It was necessary to install air conditioning from the leading place of residence. Air conditioning 3kv, LG. Inner block 98x30x30 cm, external 70x65x30 cm. The length of the route was 5.5 meters. The work took about 3 hours, namely, the assessment of the work to be done, the calculation of communications, marking, chasing a wall of about 2 meters, making holes for communications, installing the route, soldering the connections, hanging the outdoor and indoor units, connecting to the power grid, cleaning, foaming the holes in the wall , commissioning, tool assembly, writing a contract and drinking a cup of coffee))). The price was 5000 rubles for work, 6500 rubles for materials. From the materials they used ~ 11 meters of fashionable tube, ~ 6 meters of cable, 1/2 package polyurethane foam, ~ 4.5 meters of a pipe for draining water, ~ 11 meters of tubular insulation, brackets for an external unit, mounting bolts, a coil of electrical tape, about 10 dowels and bolts, maybe something else has not been taken into account. Of the tools, they had a professional puncher in the amount of 2 pieces, a gas soldering iron, a box with pliers, screwdrivers, etc., several boxes with special tools for installing air conditioners, a ladder, bags with consumables and other little things. Two young guys worked, judging by the conversation with them, they know electricians well. Bottom line: If some hidden malfunction or defect does not come up, then I will definitely recommend the master to others.

Grade 5+

Very satisfied with the work of the master! Arrived quickly, did everything right and took a small fee for his work. I had to diagnose and fill the air conditioner, before looking for a master here at profi.ru, I turned to a company that deals with air conditioner maintenance. I found them on the Internet. I told the manager that I needed to refuel the air conditioner, they told me that such a service is included in the full package of services along with washing, cleaning and diagnostics, the price of a full service with refueling is 3000 rubles. I agreed to these conditions. Two young people arrived and started a flurry of activity, about ten minutes later they reported that the air conditioners were not charged, but only washed and cleaned. For three thousand. And since we had almost run out of freon, another master would come and fill us up for another three . Like this! I refused their services..Immediately after that I made an order for a pro. Dmitry responded, came and did all the work, along with refueling, 4 times cheaper. Thank you for your professionalism and honesty!

Grade 5+

Korotkova, m. Pionerskaya, Slavyansky Boulevard

Services of the order: Gas station of the conditioner.

I say from the bottom of my heart, people with professional skills, decent, punctual, competent. Well done, they installed the air conditioner very well. I had to decide technical problem and decided. Thanks a lot. I recommend it to anyone and everyone who decides to install an air conditioner. Respect.

Grade 5+

Reading time ≈ 13 minutes

The microclimate in the house is not only convenient, but also good for your health - you can maintain different temperature. But installing a split system with your own hands is of interest to many - it is cheaper to do the installation yourself than to invite masters, although this is not always correct. First of all, experts will do the installation according to the instructions, but if you are confident, you can do it yourself.

What is a split system

Split system before installation

To begin with, let's define what a split system is, so as not to get confused in the definitions - for some reason it is distinguished from a conventional air conditioner, and rightly so. There are several types of SLE:

• On the wall 1.5-9.0 kW.
• On the floor 4.0-13.0 kW.
• On the ceiling 4.0-13.0 kW.
• With channels 5.0-18.0 kW.
• Cassette systems 5.0-14.0 kW.

How it works

The SCR consists of two parts - a compressor, which is usually placed outside under a window, and an indoor unit that supplies cold air to the room. The compressor contains freon, which cools this air - this air comes from the street ( supply system). In addition to cooling, there is a solenoid in the indoor unit, which can also blow hot air.

outdoor unit

The outdoor unit is mounted on brackets

The outdoor unit is located in an open space - the facade of the house, an open balcony, a roof. In office buildings, the outdoor unit can be mounted on flight of stairs, in the lobby or in the hallway. These two units are interconnected by a freon pipe, as well as a condensate drain pipe. There is also a compressor, a four-way valve, a receiver, a fan and a winter collector control system, which is driven by a capacitor motor. The four-way valve is connected from the indoor unit through the power cable coming from the unit in the apartment. There is also a compressor on the outdoor unit, which removes the noise in the room. The indoor unit is slightly noisy - it is 24-25 dB and this bothers some people.

Block in the apartment

Block in the apartment, fixed to the wall

The indoor unit can be located in any part of the room - ceiling, walls, floor (depending on the type of ACS). The system is controlled remotely (remote control) is required. Modern air conditioners are equipped with a filter to clean the air from smoke and / or dust. Heating and cooling of the room varies from 10 to 30⁰C. The remote control display contains information on which you can adjust the system in the desired mode - this is air temperature, three degrees of discharge force and turbo mode. For domestic use apply wall options, and floor and ceiling in offices, enterprises, in public places.

The electronics of this unit controls all parameters:

1. Allows you to control using the remote control, fixes the desired temperature and air flow.
2. Records the temperature of the air that enters the evaporator and measures the temperature of the air in the room.
3. When the set temperature in the room is reached, the compressor turns off, and turns on when the maximum allowable conditions change by 3-5⁰C.
4. The temperature is maintained by adjusting the rotation of the fan in the indoor unit, as well as the rotation of the compressor. If the evaporator is turned off, a large number of condensate in those nodes that are not designed for this. This may cause water to seep through indoor unit into the room.
5. The remote control provides tongue control (blinds), which gives direction to the air flow.
6. Prevents premature start.
7. Controls the temperature of the block outside.
8. Follows a timer that can be set to a specific time.

Space heating

Modern air conditioners can heat the air that enters the room. This happens when the four-way valve is switched, which changes the direction of the air supply. It is controlled by a solenoid at a voltage of 220 V, which comes from the inside. During the heating function on the outdoor unit, it is formed, which must be discharged. You should not heat the SLE house at a negative temperature outside - this can lead to freezing and defrosting, which is tantamount to a breakdown. It is better to use heating at temperatures above 0⁰С.

Cooling in the cold season

The SLE has a winter set that allows air conditioning in closed-type rooms where there is intense heat release - server rooms, workshops, and the like. During cold air blowing, the outdoor unit heats up, so it cannot freeze. This kit includes a fan control controller - it turns it on in condenser mode during heating, and also heats the condensate drain pipe.

High temperatures

For R10A freon, there is a critical heat point - this is 72⁰C, therefore, Maximum temperature outside should be no more than 45-50⁰C. For R22 freon, the maximum block temperature is 96⁰C, therefore, the permissible ambient temperature is 65-70⁰C - this allows you to install such units in hot shops, attics and garages. Such high temperatures can be in metal attics, in MAAFs and other metal premises.

When the temperature outside is very high, the unit works with pressure drops and more freon is required. This factor makes the compressor work more intensively and pump the maximum amount of freon, which leads to its electronics turning off. Conventional SCRs are designed for temperatures no higher than 40⁰C. If the air conditioner in the house or apartment is located on the sunny side, then it is recommended to install a visor on top when installing split systems with your own hands, which will protect the unit from the sun.

For non-standard operating modes, the capacity of the capillary channel is reduced, and this provides a significant pressure drop at the inlet and outlet with a smaller amount of freon pumped. Since there is less gas in the system, it is not liquid that passes through the capillary channel, but gas with liquid - it turns out that the circulation is significantly reduced and the air conditioner retains its ability to work in non-standard conditions. Under normal temperature conditions, such drops are harmful to the air conditioner, and it quickly fails.

Multi systems

Multi split system

If the ACS is equipped with several units, then it will already be a multi system - it means one unit outdoors and several units in the building. Such equipment is very convenient for offices, shops or a large residential building. It is noteworthy that in such a situation, the outdoor unit can be combined with several different systems, on the floor, not on the wall and on the ceiling. Of course, such units are more expensive - there is an additional controller to control desired modes and fan compressors.

Such systems come with one or more compressors. In the case of a single compressor, the SCR indoor unit transmits information to the outdoor part of the unit, which determines the operation mode of the compressor. Systems with several compressors usually have two or three units. In such a situation, a separate compressor, a separate four-way valve and a separate capillary tube are installed on each unit. The compressor of the outdoor unit detects the signals of all indoor units and sets the operation of the fan and compressor. Such air conditioners are both inverter and non-inverter.

Air conditioner maintenance

Due to condensate, both the indoor and outdoor units become clogged within two to three years, so they need to be cleaned - inside this is done with hot steam, and outside they are washed with water. Thus, fungal mold is removed along with dust. Without cleaning the unit, its efficiency can drop by half, and sometimes even more. Especially a lot of dust accumulates on the outdoor unit due to cars and trees. The filters on top are of little help and serve more for advertising than cleaning.

air conditioner requirements

Video: Installation work

Do-it-yourself installation of a split system is, in fact, not difficult and you can watch the process on the video, but several factors should be taken into account:

1. In no case should the air conditioner be located near heating devices, for example, above a radiator - this greatly increases the consumption of electricity, which you have to pay for.
2. There should be no debris in the system, as it can damage the vacuum pump.
3. Boiling freon can evaporate even through a micro-slit, therefore, during installation, the unit should be checked for tightness.
4. The outdoor unit must be located lower than the indoor unit. Otherwise, it is fraught with an overexpenditure of electricity and a thermosyphon effect.
5. Heating the outer part of the SCR also causes an extra waste of electricity.
6. The drainage tube can only go down, without loops bent up. Such bends serve as a collection of debris and fungal mold.
7. Do-it-yourself installation of split systems without a vacuum pump does not lead to anything good - the compressor will drive freon, which will cause air overheating and oil deterioration, which will damage the compressor. Too much expensive pleasure It's often easier to buy a new one.

air split

There are two separate blocks: evaporative (in the apartment) and compressor-condensing (outside). Although modern units work not only to cool the air, but also to heat it, it turns out that freon condenses in the inside of the unit, and evaporation occurs in the outside, which is why they are called so - internal and external.

Toolbox

Installation of the air conditioner is best done during repair work in home

It is most convenient to carry out installation work during repairs in the apartment, since you have to drill holes in the wall, and this is a lot of dust. To install the unit, you will need tools such as:

• with standard set of drills and hole cutter ø 50 mm. With this cutter, you will have to drill the main (bearing) wall for the output of tubes.
• Magnet for detecting the presence of reinforcement. And in concrete walls she is a must.
• Bulgarian, but a pipe cutter is better for cutting pipes - be sure to blow the pipe after that so that there is no copper chips left.
• To expand the pipes, you will need a scraper, since tightness cannot be achieved with improvised means. In addition, it is impossible to clean the ends with a file or needle file so that sawdust does not get into the middle.
• Bicycle or car pump for tightness control.
• Vacuum pump - needed for evacuation before refueling the unit.
• Ammeter-voltmeter (possibly a phase indicator) for connection to a network of ≈220 V.
• Manometer for checking pressure.

Installation work

Bracket outdoors fastened with anchor dowels

The most difficult thing is to fix the brackets on the wall from the outside of the house - this is usually done below the window so that there is access to the outdoor unit. It should be fastened with anchor plastic dowels ø 14-16 mm - two pieces for each bracket. Some are mistaken and buy metal mollies, but there is an umbrella-type dowel and it will not hold in a solid wall. Such an installation can be done from a telescopic tower, but it will be expensive, so it's easier to bend over the window and drill holes, but first you need to make marks with a pencil. To prevent the hole from going astray, first drill with a thin drill ø 5-6 mm, and then take ø 14-16 mm

The outdoor block must be below the indoor

As a rule, it is not recommended to install the outdoor unit yourself without proper experience - it is dangerous not only for health, but also for life.

But if you have construction experience in high-altitude work, then you can mount it. You can, of course, install it on a balcony or loggia, if they are not glazed - if the unit is indoors, it will overheat. The most important thing is to fasten the brackets well, but if you are afraid of heights, then it’s better not to take on such work, but to invite a specialist - they have experience working at heights, so it’s better to pay, but not risk it.

But first you need to determine the place where the indoor unit will be located, in order to then install the outdoor unit relative to it. It is most convenient when they are nearby - you do not have to add copper pipes - they are expensive. Then you make a hole in the wall with a cutter, but if the walls are concrete, then it is best to punch the hole with a chisel so as not to break the crown on the wire.

Installing the Mounting Bar for the Indoor Unit

The mounting plate for fixing the air conditioner should be inserted strictly according to the level and fixed with plastic dowels. Here, anchors are no longer needed - you can get by with dowels ø 6 mm and self-tapping screws 90 mm long. I was not mistaken - it is 6 mm dowels that are needed for fastening so that the screw does not tear out of the wall. If the walls are soft, then you can drive two screws into one dowel - this is much stronger. Of course, it will be difficult to tighten two screws with a screwdriver, so it is better to use a screwdriver or an electric drill.

Assembly of pipelines

The tubes are cut with a meter excess so that there are reserves for bends. The tube must be bent very carefully so that it does not crack anywhere. Although wrinkles should also not be allowed - such a deformation will impede the flow of refrigerant, and this in turn will cause an overrun of electricity. The best thermal insulation is a pipe made of foamed polyurethane - it will last a very long time, but foam rubber will not last even one season. Flanges are put on the ends and only after that do the flaring. The threads on the flanges must be turned towards the end of the tube in order to screw them to the fittings. New air conditioners have fittings of different diameters, so it will be impossible to mix up the ends. But there are assembly instructions in the passport, so you can constantly peep.

For drainage, it is best to use metal-plastic ø 16 mm, since corrugated plastic quickly crumbles under the influence of precipitation and temperature changes. If a thread is not provided for drainage, then it can be connected with heat shrink by heating it with a soldering iron or over an open fire - with matches or a lighter.

In order to connect the indoor and outdoor units, a multi-core cable with a core cross section of not 1.5 mm is used - there are terminals with names. The names of the terminals may not match, and then you have to understand according to the instructions that are in the passport. The wire is also packed in a pipe made of foamed polyurethane, and then all communications can be wrapped with tape. This pipe is pushed into a 50 mm hole, which is pre-made in the wall.

To check the sealing, use distilled water heated to evaporation and with a solution of laundry soap (it can be grated). To continue, remove the nipple from the outlet and pump water from the pump - if bubbles appear on the thread, then tighten the nut slightly. After completion, the soap is wiped with a wet cloth or sponge. The nipple is put in place and air is pumped out with a vacuum pump, which will remove dust and moisture. This must be done for a long time of 40-60 minutes - the moisture will be removed along with the air. The system is pumped with freon from a cylinder through a pressure gauge - the required pressure is indicated in the passport.

Video: Installation work on installing a split system

Now it remains only to test the unit - this can be done from the remote control or the start button on the indoor unit. If testing does not start, you will have to call a specialist, since the guarantees will no longer be valid. When starting the test, the shutters should open and cold air should come out. Blinds are adjusted to the desired position from the remote control.

Conclusion

If something does not work out with the installation of a split system with your own hands, and this is usually an outdoor unit, then you will have to call the master or hire a telescopic tower. But it concerns multi-storey buildings- on the first floors and in the private sector, problems usually do not arise.

Installation tips. Where is the best place to install an air conditioner?

Before as buy a split system in Krasnodar, it is desirable to determine the place where you will hang it.

It is technically possible to install an air conditioner in a room absolutely anywhere, however, for its high-quality work, without the risk of failure, there are certain rules and some nuances that must be observed during installation.

In this article, we will try to describe in as much detail as possible the most common errors during the installation process, as well as give recommendations on how to correct installation air conditioner, in order to avoid unforeseen problems in the future.

1. Install the indoor unit of the split system at a distance of at least 10 cm from the ceiling. Because the air conditioner takes its cooling/heating air from inside (not outside), the short distance from the ceiling to the top of the ceiling (where the air intake grille is) can make it difficult to recirculate the air. In this case, firstly, the air conditioner will not be able to produce enough cold / heat, and secondly, it will work for wear, which will lead to a quick failure of its compressor. That is why it is forbidden to put various objects on the air conditioner and cover it upper part. If you are installing an air conditioner under renovation, take into account the possible lowering of the ceiling level (stretch ceilings, plaster ceilings, etc.).

2. Do not mount the indoor unit of the split system above cabinets, shelves, chests of drawers if the distance from them to the lower edge of the indoor unit is less than 70-100 cm. Firstly, this causes dust accumulated on the top surface of the cabinet to be blown off every time the air conditioner is turned on. Moreover, the close location of horizontal surfaces leads to the creation of a circulation of the air flow, which leads to a decrease in the efficiency of the air conditioning system. The flow from the air conditioner is drawn back into the air intake, the air exchange in the room deteriorates, the air conditioner, taking in cold air, begins to "think" that it is time to stop its work, because the temperature sensor is located at the flow inlet.

3. The air flow must not be directed directly at people. When working in the cold, the temperature of the air stream from the air conditioner is 7-15 ° C lower than the ambient air temperature in the room. If such a stream blows on a person for at least a few tens of minutes, poor health is subsequently ensured. As a rule, air is directed so that it passes between workplaces or where people are least likely to be. In the bedroom, you often have to make a choice on which wall in relation to the bed to hang the air conditioner. Most often, people are afraid to place the indoor unit over their heads and mount the unit on the wall to which their feet are facing. If it is not possible to remove the unit from the bed as much as possible and direct the air in the other direction, it is better to mount it overhead. Cold air at the same time, it will blow not on the head, but on the legs, which are usually covered with a blanket.

4. Do not install the air conditioner indoor unit above a heat source (such as a radiator). Because of the flow warm air rising up from the heat source, the air conditioner will think that it is not cooling the room enough, and will work for wear, as a result of which it will quickly fail. In addition, excessive heat may cause the plastic casing of the indoor unit to be deformed.

5. Do not install the air conditioner in a place where air circulation will be difficult (for example, behind curtains, etc.). The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back with the same temperature with which it "came out". The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate is set and turn off.

6. The indoor unit of the split system must be installed strictly according to the level. This is necessary so that the moisture condensed on the heat exchanger can be freely removed to the outside through the drainage system. If the indoor unit is installed with a significant skew (±3-4 mm is allowed), there is a possibility that water will accumulate in the drain pan and periodically flow out of it directly onto your floor.

7. It is not recommended to install the air conditioner in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly operating.(e.g. drill, drilling machine). High-frequency vibrations can knock down the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.

8. Try to install the indoor unit so that the length of the refrigerant pipe is as short as possible. Firstly, a long route increases the cost of installation, and secondly, it reduces work efficiency. Moreover, if you decide to lay the track in a box, then a long box through the entire wall greatly spoils the interior.

9. If possible, run a separate power cable to the air conditioner. To any, even a low-power air conditioner, it is necessary to carry out a separate electrical wiring and put a separate machine in the electrical panel. Because the old wiring may not withstand the load and it will ignite. Be especially vigilant if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, the wiring is not designed for the loads from the use of powerful electrical equipment.

1. Do not install the outdoor unit on a glazed balcony or loggia because heat dissipation will be very difficult. Installation is only possible if the windows can be opened wide. In this case, it is necessary to pay attention to the operating range of outdoor air temperatures. The upper temperature limit for different air conditioners is not the same and ranges from 40 to 46 C.

2. The outdoor unit should not cause inconvenience to your neighbors(noise, dripping condensate).

3. Try to place the outdoor unit in such a way that the sun's rays fall on it as little as possible. Direct sunlight can cause protective shutdown appliance due to overheating.

4. Locate the outdoor unit in such a way that during operation, the heat removed from the room can be freely discharged into environment (For example, do not install the outdoor unit where the prevailing wind is directed towards the air conditioner, otherwise the normal operation of the fan will be disturbed).

5. Do not place the outdoor unit in close proximity to the canopy of trees. Leaves and fluff from poplars clog the heat exchanger, moreover, during gusts of wind, branches can get into the equipment, damage the fan or heat exchanger fins. If, nevertheless, your house is all buried in greenery, then you need to cut down some of the branches located next to the air conditioner.

6. It is forbidden to install outdoor units on the ground and in those places where they can be soiled with mud, covered with snow, flooded with rain or sewage. Blocks must be installed on a special stand.

7. It is forbidden to install outdoor units in places where there is a possibility of leakage of explosive gases. In particular, this applies to the air conditioning of the first and second floors, where gas pipes gasified buildings.

8. When placing the outdoor unit on the ground floor, install it in a special protective grid. This will prevent theft and acts of vandalism.

9. Take care of the condensate drain. Most often, condensate is discharged to the street. In this case, the flowing water should not fall on the wall of the building. Condensate discharge to the sewer is preferable, but expensive. If you plan to install a block above the sidewalk, then this is the only acceptable option.

10. Do not install the outdoor unit on a weak base, for example, on a wall made of hollow bricks or thin metal. The fragility of the supporting structure almost always causes excessive noise, the elimination of which takes a lot of effort and money. Yes, and the air conditioner can simply fall.

If you need high-quality installation (assembly) of split systems in Krasnodar, the specialists of the company website will help you with this