Do-it-yourself flight of stairs made of wood. Do-it-yourself wooden staircase: we understand typical designs for the second floor. Material requirements

08.11.2019

Building a staircase in a house is not an easy process, but it is doable. The main difficulty lies in calculating the angle of inclination and span parameters, because not only the ease of use, but also the durability of the structure depends on this. A durable and beautiful staircase to the second floor with your own hands is an opportunity to test your strength and gain experience for further home improvement.

First you need to decide on the type of staircase in order to make the calculations correctly. The most commonly used stairs in the house are wood, concrete and metal; According to the configuration, they are straight, rotary and screw. There are also combined designs of varying complexity.

Concrete products require a very strong base and a lot of time to manufacture, but they are the strongest and most durable. Installation of metal structures will not be difficult for those who know how to use welding, and wooden stairs Anyone who becomes familiar with the technology of this process in detail can make it.

A straight flight of stairs to the second floor is considered the easiest to install; it consists of small quantity parts, takes up little space, does not require complex calculations. Screw structures are used where there is little free space; They look very elegant, but are not always easy to use. Lifting something large and heavy up such steps will be problematic. Structures with several spans are more difficult to build, but they are ideal for houses where there is a large distance between floors.

Simple wooden staircase

A single-flight staircase consists of stringers, railings, treads and risers. The tread is the horizontal part of the step, the riser is the vertical part. Stringers are load-bearing structural elements that have special cutouts along the upper edge for attaching steps. Instead of stringers, bowstrings are often used - load-bearing beams with grooves for steps. Risers and railings are not mandatory elements, but for convenience and safety it is better when they are present.

The height of the stairs is equal to the distance between floors plus the thickness of the floors. To simplify the calculation of the length of the span and base, you first need to determine the parameters of the steps. If elderly people and children live in the house, optimal height The height of the steps is 15 cm; for the rest, a height of 20 cm will be more convenient. It is not recommended to make the riser even higher, since the rise will be too steep and less comfortable.

The width of the step is 20-30 cm, and here a lot depends on how much space can be allocated under the stairs. The wider the steps, the more space the structure takes up. When suitable sizes selected, you can calculate the number of steps and the length of the base. To do this, divide the height of the stairs by the height of the riser, round the resulting value to a whole number, and then multiply by the depth of the tread. For example, if the total height is 3 m and the riser height is 20 cm, 15 steps will be required:

3000:200=15

With a step width of 25 cm, the length of the base is 15x250=3750 mm.

Manufacturing technology

When the calculations have been made, you can begin to manufacture the staircase elements. Stringers require very dense solid wood, because they must support not only the weight of the structure, but also people. A template is cut out of thick cardboard, on which the cutouts correspond to the size of the steps, and the slope is equal to the angle of inclination of the stairs. At the ends of the stringers, grooves are cut for attachment to the base and upper ceilings, after which markings are made according to the template.

For further work you will need:

jigsaw;
sander;
building level;
anchor bolts;
drill;
hammer.

Using a jigsaw, protrusions are made on the stringers according to the markings, then they are processed on both sides with a grinder. Holes for fasteners are cut out in the floor beams or metal supports are installed. A support beam is installed on the floor of the first floor along the line of the lower step and secured with anchor bolts. After this, the stringers are installed, making sure to check the angle of inclination using a level. The stringers are secured at the bottom and top with anchor bolts.

The next step is making the steps. To do this, take dry boards with a thickness of 36 mm or more; their width should be equal to the width of the steps or be slightly larger. For risers, you can use boards with a thickness of 20 mm or more. The length of the blanks must correspond to the width of the stairs - from 80 cm to 1.2 m.

After trimming, each workpiece must be sanded to remove sharp cuts and irregularities. The process of installing the steps is very simple: the lower cutouts of the stringers are coated with wood glue and risers are applied, aligning them along the edges. They are secured with self-tapping screws and laid on top of the steps. Glue is needed so that the wooden elements do not creak under load.

Having laid all the steps one by one, they begin to install the railings. Railings consist of balusters and handrails; For the manufacture of balusters, square beams or shaped pieces of wood are used. Balusters are installed either on each step or every other step, depending on the slope and length of the span. Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners, which are often closed with special plugs for beauty. If the staircase to the second floor is located in the center of the room, railings can be installed on both sides.

The finished structure is sanded again and treated with an antiseptic primer. After this, you need to cover the wood with varnish, paint or other composition that does not form an overly smooth surface. If the steps are rough, this will increase their safety for household members. The coating is applied in 2 or 3 layers, with each layer being completely dry before applying the next.

In a spacious house with concrete floors on the second floor, you can make a concrete staircase. Most often, two types of structures are installed in houses - monolithic and combined, in which only the stringer is concrete. The second option looks more attractive and elegant. For the manufacture of concrete stairs You definitely need formwork and a very strong foundation.

During the work you will need:

edged board covered with film or waterproof plywood;
durable timber 100x100 mm;
knitting wire and fittings;
self-tapping screws;
concrete solution.

Boards for formwork are chosen with a thickness of 3 cm, the thickness of plywood should not be less than 18 mm. All dimensions are calculated in the same way as for a wooden staircase, but the base must be as strong as possible. They start by assembling the formwork: boards or plywood are knocked down according to the drawing, observing the angle of inclination and preventing the formation of cracks.

The finished formwork is installed between floors and secured with wooden blocks. After this, reinforcement is laid out inside the frame, tying the transverse rods with wire. Wooden plugs are fixed at the places where the railings are installed, and then the formwork is filled with the prepared solution. The frame must be filled immediately, otherwise the solidity of the base will be broken.

When the concrete has set well, the formwork is removed, and the surface of the steps is periodically moistened to avoid cracking. You can begin finishing only after the concrete has completely dried and hardened. To make a combined staircase, pouring the stringer is done in exactly the same way, but the formwork is made much narrower and takes into account the installation of steps.

To finish a monolithic structure, wood, stone, tiles and other materials are used. When facing, you should take into account the weight of the material, because tiles and stone place a greater load on the base than wooden panels. Any steps can be attached to a concrete stringer; such a base combines especially well with wood.

For the manufacture and installation of straight metal stairs for the second floor you will need:

steel channel No. 10;
metal corners;
welding machine;
sheet iron;
file and grinder with a grinding attachment.

The channel is cut into pieces and a frame is assembled from them according to the size of the stairs. Corners are welded to the side edges of the frame at regular intervals equal to the height of the step. All corners should be parallel to each other. To make it easier to install the structure, the steps are welded after installation and fastening of the frame.

The upper ends of the frame are securely fixed with anchor bolts to the ceiling of the second floor, the lower ends are fixed to the floor. Next, the steps are welded from sheet iron and the railings are attached. Upon completion of assembly, the joints are ground with a nozzle or treated with a file, and then covered with an anti-corrosion primer.

This design takes up little space and looks more decorative. With a height of 2.5 m, you will need to make approximately 15-17 steps; the base diameter will be about 2 m. The most common way to install spiral staircases is to string trapezoidal or triangular steps onto the central axis. The narrow part is 15 cm wide, the wide part is 30-35 cm.

To make a spiral staircase yourself, you will need:

steel pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
pipe with a diameter of 55 mm;
wooden slats for the template;
corners for steps;
welding machine;
file;
primer.

The smaller diameter pipe is the central post, so its length should correspond to the distance between the first and second floors. For greater stability of the structure, it is recommended to concrete the stand at the base, first aligning it vertically. A larger diameter pipe is cut into cylinders about 25 cm long. The cuts must be made strictly perpendicular, otherwise the steps will not be aligned horizontally.

It is very important that the cylinders fit tightly onto the central pipe and do not form any backlash. If a tight connection does not occur, sealing rings will be required.

To make steps, it is convenient to use a template made from slats. Wood slats glued together so that the corners inserted into the frame form a step of the given parameters.

Each stage is welded to its own cylinder and carefully ground. After all the elements have been manufactured, you can begin assembling the structure. The steps are placed on the axle pipe, the angle is set and tightly welded to the axle.

The final stage is attaching the railings and finishing. Railings can consist of fittings, chrome-plated tubes, thin profiles; Forged railings look very elegant. All metal surfaces must be sanded, primed and painted.

In a similar way, a spiral staircase to the second floor is assembled from wooden steps. Wood blanks are made in the form of a trapezoid, in the narrow part of which a hole with a diameter of 50 mm is drilled. With the help of special seals, the steps strung on the axle are fixed on the central post. Next, the railings are installed, the wood is primed and painted, and decorated with decor.

Video - How to make a staircase to the second floor

Video - Do-it-yourself wooden staircase

Making a wooden staircase with your own hands is quite simple. However, there are a number of nuances on which the convenience and even safety of movement depends. I will tell you about all the intricacies of construction wooden structure so that you do not make mistakes in the process.

All work on the manufacture of stairs can be divided into two main stages:

Design;
Assembly of the structure.

Design

A staircase is a rather complex structure, so it is simply impossible to make it efficiently without a detailed design, especially for a beginner. The design process can be divided into three main stages:

Stage 1: determining the type of structure

All existing species stairs can be divided into two types:

Screw. The peculiarity of such structures is that they contain only winder steps located around the central pillar. It is advisable to use them if there is a minimum of space in the room.
Keep in mind that such ladders are inconvenient to use and also quite difficult to manufacture. Therefore, I would not recommend that beginners take on the construction of a spiral staircase;

Marching. These stairs have smooth flights of stairs. They are more comfortable and safe to use. However, keep in mind that staircases take up more space in the room.

Marching stairs, in turn, are divided into several subtypes:

Single march. Consist of one straight flight of stairs;
Rotary with winder steps. They may have several flights of stairs, between which there are turning steps (winder steps);

Rotary with landings. Level platforms are installed between the flights of these stairs. Such stairs are more convenient to use, but take up more space in the room;

"Duck step" The peculiarity of these stairs is the paddle-shaped steps, which are installed in pairs in the opposite direction. As a result, you can only stand on one step on one step, hence their name.

Such stairs are less convenient, but they can be very steep, i.e. the angle of inclination can exceed 40-45 degrees.

You should choose the type of construction depending on the conditions in the room and your requirements. If space is limited, you can make a duck-step staircase, which requires a minimum of ground floor floor space. If pensioners or small children live in the house, it is better to sacrifice space, but make a turning staircase with landing platforms.

Stage 2: calculating the stairs

On at this stage you need to decide on such important parameters of the stairs as:

Number of treads;
Height of risers;
The angle of inclination of the stairs;
March length;
The area that the staircase will occupy on the first floor.

Any staircase should be comfortable and safe. To do this, when performing calculations, the following rules must be observed:

Step sizes. The height cannot be more than 190 mm and less than 160 mm. The tread width should not be less than 220 mm and more than 330 mm.
Keep in mind that all steps must be the same height and width, otherwise the staircase will be dangerous;
The number of steps in a flight of stairs. The most comfortable value is 11-15 steps. If there are more of them, it is advisable to divide the flight of stairs with a landing.
In addition, it is desirable that the march have an odd number of steps, so that a person finishes the descent or ascent with the same foot with which he began moving up the stairs;
March width. Must be at least 90-100 mm;
Railing height. At least 90 cm.

Calculation of the number of steps. Before you begin calculating the stairs, you need to measure the height between floors, as well as the area allocated for the stairs. For example, the height between floors, i.e. The height of the stairs in our case is 3 m.

Now you can start calculating the number of steps and the height of the risers. These two parameters are interrelated.

To calculate the number of steps, you need to divide the distance between the floor of the first floor and the floor of the second floor by the height of the steps. The latter can be anything within 160-190 mm. For example, let’s take a height of 180 mm, in which case the number of steps will be 300/18 = 16.6 pieces.

Since we need an even amount, we will adjust the height by dividing the total height by the number of steps - 300/17 = 17.6 cm. In fact, the staircase will have 16 steps, since the last step is the floor of the second floor.

Calculation of tread width. There is a formula for calculating a comfortable staircase - a + b = 470 mm, where:

a - riser height;
b - tread width.

From this formula we obtain the tread width 47-17.6 = 29.4. This size is well within acceptable limits.

Calculation of march length. Now all that remains is to calculate the length of the march, i.e. the length of its projection onto the floor. To do this, you need to multiply the width of the tread by the number of steps - 29.4x17 = 499.8 ~ 5 m.

Since the staircase will be quite long, it is advisable to make it rotary, consisting of two flights. In this case, the first flight will have eight steps, including the landing, and the second flight will have nine steps, taking into account the floor of the first floor.

The width of the platform should be equal to the width of the march, i.e. at least 90-100 cm.

If necessary, you can adjust the parameters of the stairs to suit the conditions in the room - change the height of the risers and the width of the tread. The main thing is that these parameters remain within acceptable limits.

Calculation of the length of a string or bowstring. The calculation of the stringer is carried out according to the Pythagorean theorem - the length of the stairs squared + the height of the ladder squared = the length of the stringer squared.

Stage 3: drawing up a drawing

Now you need to prepare a drawing according to which you will make the parts of the stairs. To do this, we will first consider the details that the design of a wooden staircase includes:

Kosour. The supporting beam on which the steps are laid. As a result, the stringer takes on the entire load when moving up the stairs;

Bowstring. It also represents a load-bearing beam. It differs from a stringer in the absence of cutouts for steps, as a result of which the treads are connected to the beam at the end.
To attach the treads to the string, notches are milled in it or bars are attached on which the tread is placed;

Steps. They consist of two elements - treads (horizontal board), riser (vertical board, which is located under the step). It must be said that the design of a wooden staircase may not have risers, especially if it is based on bowstrings.

What is the best way to make a staircase - on stringers or bowstrings? The design on bowstrings is faster and easier, since there is no need to make cutouts for steps, however, a staircase on stringers can withstand a greater load.

Making stairs

Let's look at how to make a wooden staircase with your own hands. This process can be roughly divided into several stages:

Stage 1: preparing stringers

The work is done like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. At this stage, prepare boards with a section of 40 x 300 mm.
	Preparing beams. Cut 40x300 mm boards to the length of the stringer according to design calculations.
	Marking the stringer. To apply markings, use a construction square. Use it to mark the location of the steps and risers, as shown in the photo. Keep in mind that the angle of the tread and stringer must correspond to the angle of inclination. To avoid making mistakes in your calculations, you can do the following: Fix the stringer in working position; Mark a trim line for the bottom of the board that will rest on the floor; Mark the first tread and riser with a square. When marking, use a level to ensure that the step is parallel. The distance from the cutting line to the first tread should be equal to the height of the step; Mark the remaining treads and risers, focusing on the markings of the first step.
	Cutting the stringer. Carefully make the cuts using a hacksaw, jigsaw or other tool. Follow the same pattern to make all the other stringers.

To ensure that paired stringers turn out exactly the same, use the first stringer as a template - attach it to the board and trace it with a pencil.

Stage 2: frame assembly

Now we need to make the remaining elements of the staircase frame and install them. The work is carried out like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. In addition to the stringers for assembly you will need: Beam 70x70 mm or 100x100 mm; Boards 40x300 mm; Glass for timber (fastening element); Wood glue.
	Attaching the stringer to the wall: Fix the stringer on the wall in working position; Make sure the stringer is installed correctly. To do this, attach a level to the cutouts under the steps - they should be positioned strictly horizontally; Secure the beam with anchors or self-tapping screws (if the wall is wooden); Attach the stringer of the second span to the wall in the same way. To ensure that the beams are positioned correctly, it is advisable to mark the walls before installing them.
	Installation of the support column: Mark the location of the support pillar for the landing; Secure the post to the floor using a special glass and dowel nails. Step back 10 cm from the installed pillar (distance between spans), and install a second pillar on which the beam of the upper span will rest.
	Pole marking. Mark on the pole the junction of the second string. To do this, you can use a laser or water level.
	Installation of the second stringer: Treat the junction of the stringer with the post with wood glue. It is advisable to mill out the joint first. Connect the stringer to the post; Screw in several self-tapping screws on the back side of the post, having previously drilled holes for them.
	Installation of stringer of the second span. The beam is attached to the post according to the same principle as the stringer of the first span.
	Assembling the platform frame: If the platform is adjacent to the walls, fasten 40x300 mm boards to the walls at the level of the platform; If the platform is not adjacent to the walls, install additional supports and tighten them with slats, as shown in the photo example.

This completes the installation of the frame. If your staircase is straight and without a platform, then all the work on assembling the frame comes down to installing two stringers.

Stage 3: covering the stairs

The staircase covering is carried out as follows:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. At this stage we will need: Wooden boards 30x300 mm; Wood glue; Lining.
	Marking steps and treads: Mark the boards according to the dimensions of the treads and risers; If the treads have a rounded shape, apply markings using a pattern.
	Cutting out parts. Use a jigsaw or other tool for these purposes. In addition to treads and risers, you will also need boards for cladding the landing. Keep in mind that the tread should hang over the riser by an inch or two.
	Drilling holes: Mark the location of the screws on the parts; Drill the holes.
	Treating the joints of parts with glue. Use wood glue for this.
	Installation of steps and risers. Secure the parts with self-tapping screws.
	Covering the space under the stairs: Fasten the slats to the floor under the outer stringer, as shown in the photo; Cover the space between the floor and the stairs with clapboard. The boards are attached to the bottom rail and stringer, and are also connected to each other in a lock.
	Sheathing of the upper flight: Secure the slats between the stringers; Attach the lining with self-tapping screws to the stringers and cross slats.

Stage 4. installation of railings

Now you can begin installing the railings. It is better to buy ready-made balusters and handrails, since it is difficult to make them beautiful without the appropriate equipment. At the same time, their price is low - the cost of figured pine balusters starts at an average of 100 rubles per piece.

The process of installing balusters and railings looks like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. To arrange the railings you will need: Set of balusters; Handrails; Dowels; Painting glue.
	Installation of dowels under balusters: Apply markings on the treads so that all the dowels are located on the same line; Drill holes according to the diameter of the dowels; Coat the holes with wood glue; Hammer dowels into the holes.
	Installation of balusters. The instructions look like this: Drill a hole for a dowel in the lower end of the baluster; Coat the hole with glue; Place the baluster on the dowel; If the baluster is located close to the tread, it can be additionally “grabbed” with self-tapping screws.
	Preparing balusters for handrail installation. Trim top part columns at an angle equal to the angle of inclination of the flight of stairs.
	Attaching handrails to the outer posts: Treat the area where the handrail meets the posts with glue; Screw the screws from the bottom into the handrail obliquely so that they fit into the post, as shown in the photo.
	Attaching handrails to intermediate balusters. Treat the areas where the balusters meet the handrail with wood glue. Screw the screws diagonally into the balusters so that they fit into the handrail.

The process of making a wooden staircase is almost complete. Now all that remains is to do the finishing touches.

Stage 5: finishing

Typically, in the process finishing Do-it-yourself wooden stairs are covered with varnish, stain or impregnation. This operation is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustrations	Description of work
	Materials. For finishing you will need: Wood putty (matched to the color of the wood); Paintwork.
	Puttying: Remove any dust and dirt from the surfaces you will be filling; Fill the recesses of the screw heads with putty, as well as small cracks and other defects in the wood, if any; Immediately level the surface using a narrow spatula; After the putty has hardened, you need to clean its surface with sandpaper.
	Sanding: Sand all smooth surfaces using a sander; Handle areas of complex shape with sandpaper.
	Removing dust. Vacuum the surface of the stairs or wipe with a damp cloth.
	Varnishing: Apply the varnish in a thin, even layer using a brush; After the surface has dried, reapply the varnish; Upon completion of varnishing, the surface should be polished. It is advisable to coat a wooden staircase with matte varnish or impregnation. If coated with a glossy varnish, it can be slippery and unsafe for movement.

As you can see, the stairs to the second floor are made quite simply, so to make them it is enough to have basic skills in working with wood.

Conclusion

We examined the process of making a staircase with all its main nuances and subtleties, and now you can get to work on your own. I recommend watching the video in this article. If you encounter any difficulties during the work, write comments, and I will be happy to help you.

Modern cottages and private houses require the presence of 2 or more floors, and the topmost of them can be either residential or non-residential premises. In any case, a ladder is required.

It is quite difficult to independently make a reliable interfloor or attic staircase from concrete or metal structures, which cannot be said about a wooden one.

Even a novice master can assemble it.

From this article you will learn what types of wooden stairs there are, what are their differences, what material is used to make the spans. In addition, each of you will be able to make a wooden staircase to the second floor yourself - in the article we will provide approximate calculations and photos.

Types and types of structures

There are several species wooden staircase designs:

Marching stairs. They are easy to manufacture and convenient to use, but require a large area of the room. A flight of stairs can be placed along the wall or mounted in the middle of the room;
. Usually located in limited space. Since the structure's capacity is very small, it is better to move through it one at a time. Spiral staircase(if you build it yourself) it will cost much less than other structures, and will last about the same;
Combined stairs. Can be used in the construction of a private house, if the layout allows. Most often, flight stairs are made with a screw element.

Types of structures wooden stairs are the following:

Stairs on pain– the steps are attached to huge hanging bolts (balusters);
stairs on the bowstrings– the flight of stairs is mounted end-to-end to the beam with special cutouts on the inside;
stairs on stringers. Stringer is an inclined beam on top of which steps are attached.

What kind of wood can a staircase be made from?

Material selection for depends on the preferences of the owner of the house or apartment, the characteristics of the tree and the cost of it. Various breeds have their advantages and disadvantages:

Maple. A staircase made from this type will be the strongest and most durable. Color – light brown. The disadvantage of a maple staircase is its high price.
Larch. The color of the structure is golden yellow or dark yellow with brown veins. Great tolerates impacts external factors. A larch staircase will be strong and solid.
Oak. The peculiarity of oak stairs is that the older they are, the darker the shade.
Spruce. The most popular material due to its low cost. Spruce wood has a uniform structure and light shade.
Pine. Due to the low density of wood, it is very easy to process. An additional advantage of pine is low cost material. The disadvantage of a pine staircase is its short service life. It is best to install a pine staircase in the country house where it will be used seasonally.

Pros and cons of wooden stairs

Wooden stairs have their advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at them.

Positive sides:

Low cost of building materials;
environmental friendliness of wood;
ease of processing;
possibility of DIY installation;
light weight;
aesthetic appearance.

Disadvantages of wood:

Low strength compared to concrete or metal stairs;
tree - natural material and it tends to deteriorate and change. Therefore, after some time, preventative work may be necessary;
fire hazard of the material.

Materials for making stairs

For installation of stairs to the second floor You will need:

Bars for steps;
beams for risers (leg supports);
boards;
beams width 30 - 40 mm;
beam for stringer – 50*240 mm;
screws, self-tapping screws;
wood glue;
building level, square, tape measure;
handrails and, but it is better to purchase them at a hardware store.

Staircase calculations

If you decide to make a wooden staircase with your own hands, think over the nuances of the design: determine its dimensions, calculate the number of steps and supports. It is important to initially imagine what function the staircase will perform: connecting the floors or leading to the top of the attic. (You can read information about insulating the attic yourself).

Draw diagram It’s also easy to do it yourself. Most often, a straight flight of stairs is made. It connects the first floor with the second, and reaches a height of several meters. For convenience, the angle of inclination of the structure should be equal to the value in 30-40 degrees.

Note! Wooden houses give significant shrinkage in the first two years after construction, so the angle of inclination may change.

So, for your convenience, we will provide basic calculations elements of the staircase (using the example of a wooden one) standard designs:

Base length - 3.5-4 m;
flight of stairs - 2.5 m;
width of steps – 30 cm;
height of steps – 15-20 cm.

Necessary calculations

1. We define height of the stairs. Average value from ceiling to floor – 250 cm. TO given value need to add thickness interfloor covering. Its average 35 cm. We get:
  250+35=285 cm

1. calculate number of steps: divide the height of the stairs by the height of the steps. It is better to take the last value (i.e. the height of the steps) as average - 17 cm. We get:
  285 cm/17 cm =16.76

The value is rounded up. Total we get 17 steps.

1. define step width. It is believed that the permissible tread width (flat facing part of the step) can range from 22-40 cm. In Russian practice, to calculate the width of the step and rise (risers), the formula is used: a + b = 47 cm, Where A- riser height, b- step width. We get:
  47-16.67=30.3 cm

The value is rounded to 30 cm. - this is the width of the step.

1. The width of the flight of stairs must be a multiple of the width of the step. In our case, this value can be equal to 60 cm, 90 cm, 120 cm. etc.
2. calculate length of stairs. The length of the staircase is equal to the product of the number of steps and their width. We get:
  17*30= 480 cm

calculate stringer length. We make calculations according to the Pythagorean theorem: the sum of the squares of the legs is equal to the square of the hypotenuse. That is A²+B²=C². In this formula:
A– height of the stringer,
IN– length of flight of stairs,
WITH– stringer length. We get:

230400 + 81225 = 311625
The root of this number is 558.23 cm. Can be rounded to 560 cm.

Advice! If it is difficult to make geometric calculations, you can draw a staircase on paper on an appropriate scale and measure the angle and length of the base.

Assembling the stairs

Before you begin assembling the stairs to the second floor, you need to decide place for installing stringers(supporting structure of a flight of stairs). Installation stairs (in our case, a marching structure) includes several stages:

1. Installation of stringers. We fasten the lower part of the stringer with a support beam. From above we cut the stringer into the ceiling beam.

grinding stairs, coating with a protective composition.
varnishing And painting. To do this, use a roller or brush. Paint over need a ladder in 2-3 layers, each subsequent layer must be applied after some time so that the previous layer has time to dry.

Cost of a finished staircase

Those who decided to buy ready wooden staircase or make it order, should be aware that the cost will depend on the complexity of the design and the type of wood.

For example, the most common design of a flight of stairs with a turn 90 degrees pine will cost 60-80000 rub.., from birch – 100,000 rub..,made of oak – 150,000 rub..

You can order a wooden staircase in a specialized store or on company websites. Manufacturing On average it takes up stairs 5-10 working days.

It’s up to you to make a wooden staircase yourself or order it from specialists. Self-installation It's not a quick process, but it has its advantages. First of all, this saving cash and visual Quality control building materials.

This is how to make a wooden staircase with your own hands video.

Let's consider such a simple and unpretentious thing that is found in every home like an attached wooden staircase. Many people make it themselves, and almost everyone has encountered a situation where it failed.

Most makeshift stairs are unsafe. It’s good if the crossbar comes off and your foot slips onto the next one below. But in many cases, falling from a height can cause serious injury. To prevent this from happening, let's look at how to properly make a ladder with your own hands from wood.

What are the parts of the stairs called?

To make it easier to cover the topic, we will present the generally accepted terms that denote its details.

There are only two of them:

the rungs on which we step or grab with our hands are called steps;
the long bars to which the steps are attached are bowstrings.

Attention. It is more correct to climb the stairs holding your hands not on the steps, but on the bowstrings. Although a ladder is used by one person, many fire escapes have the same design. When in an emergency situation several people move up the stairs one after another, the one who holds on to the bowstrings does not risk falling, because his hands will be crushed by the one above.

Why are most stairs done wrong?

Almost every wooden staircase is constructed as follows:

Find bars and slats or even poles of a suitable cross-section.
Cut the material to size.
Everything is knocked together with nails.

The worst option is shown in the photo above; usually everything looks more beautiful. This is a dangerous and wrong approach. The nail holding the step in place can break down from time and corrosion, or be forced through the wood, causing the joint to fail.

Fastening with several nails or using screws or through bolts with nuts does not save the situation. Also, if the section is chosen incorrectly, or the material is defective, then the step or string, especially on a long staircase, may break.

Requirements for stairs

Wooden stairs used in production must comply with regulations.

Here are the names of several of them:

SNiP 12 – 03 – 2001: Occupational safety in construction.
POT RM-012-2000: Rules for labor protection when working at height.
GOST 24258 – 88: Technical specifications for scaffolding means.

Let’s not invent anything new; we will apply them to our home construction. Our wooden extension ladder, drawings and materials for it, and assembly method will fully comply with them. Let's list the main requirements.

Material requirements

Steps and strings of stairs must support a weight of at least 120 kg.
Elements of stairs are made from pine, as a last resort, the steps can be made of hardwood (birch, beech, ash, oak).
Fiber inclination of more than 7% is not allowed.
The wood must not have any defects violating its strength characteristics - cracks, knots sawn along the axis, curls, resin pockets. Bowstrings should not have core tubes.

Staircase elements are made from solid pieces of wood. As an exception, manufacturing from planks glued along the entire length is allowed. At the same time, the laminated veneer lumber should not be inferior in strength to solid wood, and should not have delaminations and swelling at the joints.

External surfaces must be sanded and not have any irregularities or burrs.

Design requirements

Wooden stairs are not made longer than 5 meters.
On the upper outer edge of rectangular steps, a chamfer of at least 2 mm in size must be removed.
The strings must be tied before the first and after the last step, as well as every 2 meters in length, with steel ties with a diameter of at least 2 mm on nuts and washers.
The minimum cross-section of steps is 2x4 centimeters.
The step pitch is no more than 0.35 meters.
The steps and strings are assembled into a tenon. It is allowed to connect with metal fasteners, with the steps deepening into the grooves selected in the staircase array. When assembling into a tenon, glue that is resistant to moisture is used.

Safety requirements

There should be no protruding wooden or metal elements; all parts are buried flush.
If the ladder rests on the ground, then a frame with metal spikes is installed at the bottom of the strings to prevent slipping. For the same purpose, for working on hard surfaces (concrete, parquet, ceramic tile) rubber shoes or pads are installed at the bottom.
When supporting the upper part of the ladder on pipes or similar parts, metal hooks are installed at the top to ensure reliable fixation and prevent tipping.

If you meet all these requirements, then your ladder will be reliable - but be sure to also carry out a test (we will talk about the method below). But if you have the desire and ability, you can additionally carry out a design calculation.

Calculation of staircase strength

We will try to make our calculation instructions understandable even to people without technical education who are not familiar with the basics of strength of materials and theoretical mechanics. We present the terms, but this is so that it is clear to specialists (or so that they do not swear). Simply, take your measurements for calculation. We perform the following steps.

Preparing the initial data

We determine what our wooden extension ladder will look like with our own hands; it is not necessary to make drawings; sketches (sketches or, as engineers call them, “kroki”), which will have all the dimensions, are enough. We get a section of steps of 3.5x5 cm, length 50 cm. Section of strings 4x9 cm, length 240 cm.

For pine at a humidity of 15% (average value under normal operating conditions), the tensile strength is taken to be 100.8 kgf/cm2 (10.08 MPa). If other breeds will be used, this value can be found in reference books or on the Internet.
The modulus of elasticity of pine wood is 100,000 kg/cm2.
We accept the load that we will apply during testing and that is required by the standards (the average person is much lighter) - 120 kg.

Calculating the steps

We calculate the gross moment of resistance; for this we multiply the width of the section of the step by the square of its height and divide by six: 3.5x5 2 /6 = 14.58 cm 3.
We calculate the maximum bending moment. To do this, divide the static load (weight) by eight and multiply the resulting number by the difference between the double length of the step (50 cm) and the subtracted length of the section on which the load is applied (this section is equal to the width of a person’s sole 10 cm): x(2x50-10)=1350 kg x cm
We determine the design bending stress by dividing the maximum bending moment by the gross moment of resistance: 1350/14.58=92.59 kgf/cm2.

The resulting value is 92.59 kgf/cm2, less than the tensile strength of pine wood 100.8 kgf/cm2, which means the step will withstand.

Calculating the bowstrings

For bowstrings, the load is applied pointwise, at the place where the step is attached, and we also take only half the weight of 60 kg (two strings).

We calculate the gross moment of resistance: 4 * 9 2 /6 = 54 cm3.
We calculate the maximum bending moment: = 3600 kgf x cm.
We determine the design bending stress: 36000/54 = 66.67 kgf/cm2.

It also turned out to be less than 100.8 kgf/cm2, which means our bowstrings will not break. It is also advisable to additionally calculate the deflection; for steps it is insignificant in any case, but for bowstrings it is important.

To do this, we calculate the moment of inertia cross section. It is equal to the width of the section multiplied by the cube of the height and divided by 12: 4x9 3 /12 = 243 cm4.
According to SNiP, it should be greater than that determined by the formula: . In this formula: P - applied load (60 kg), L - length (240 cm), E - elastic modulus - 100,000 kg/cm2. We consider = 108 cm4.

243 cm4 is twice as large as 108 cm4, which means the deflection of our bowstrings complies with SNiP.

Making a staircase

Once we have determined the requirements for a safe ladder, determined its dimensions and even calculated it, we can begin manufacturing. We will need a minimum set of materials, the price for which is also low.

Beam for steps and strings.
Wire for ties or, better yet, long studs with ready-made threads.
Nuts and washers.
Rubber shoes, pieces of rubber or ready-made parts for forging the lower part with spikes. If hooks are needed on top, then so are they.
Screws.
Glue for assembly.
Drying oil and paint.

You can also get by with a minimal set of tools, especially if we already have the timber of the required section, but it’s more convenient if there is a circular saw and a planing machine. We need:

Equipment for marking - pencil, ruler, tape measure, square.
Hacksaws for wood and metal.
Plane.
Mallet or rubber mallet.
Chisels and chisels, or better yet milling machine for wood.
Drill.
Spanners.
Dies with a collar.
Sandpaper.
Brushes for applying glue, drying oil and paint.

Let us describe the manufacture of a wooden ladder with our own hands according to the operations:

We process the workpieces to the required section.
Using a plane or machine we make their surface smooth.
We mark the required length of the bars, and if our staircase narrows slightly at the top, take into account that the steps will be of different lengths.

We cut the material to size.
We mark holes (if assembled into a tenon) or niches (if assembled with notching) for the steps in the strings. At the same time, if we are going to install the steps into a tenon, then there are two options - cutting them into the bowstring over the entire cross-sectional area (easier and faster) or making a slightly smaller tenon (more labor-intensive).
If we plan to embed steps into a tenon not with the entire cross-sectional area, then we prepare tenons for them. This is the most labor-intensive and time-consuming process. It is necessary to remove material from the step bars strictly in accordance with the shape of the holes on the strings; the process becomes more complicated if the staircase has a variable width (tapers at the top). The easiest way to do the job is to use ready-made holes on the bowstrings as templates. Be especially careful with this operation; the tenon must fit into the hole without play.
We join the steps with strings. If we make a cut into a groove, then we install them in the grooves and fasten them with screws or nails. For reliability, we use two fasteners for each joint. Additionally, you can coat the joint with glue. If we assemble it into a tenon, then we immediately install the steps into one string (with glue, in addition you can also use a nail or screw, the main thing is that it does not split the material). Do not place blades, fabric or other material for a tight fit. If the tenon fits in with a gap, then we redo it. When the steps are glued into one string, we join them to the second string in the same way.
After joining the steps with the strings, we drill holes for the ties, and their diameter should match the diameter of the wire or pins. Having drilled them out, using a drill with a diameter equal to the size of the washer, select a hole on the outer sides of the bowstrings to recess the washer and nut. Its depth is equal to the sum of the thickness of the latter.
Cut the pins or wire to size for the ties. Using a die, cut a thread on the wire from both ends, turning it into a hairpin.
To prevent corrosion, we paint or varnish the studs. This must be done in advance, because this part of them will be hidden in solid wood. At the same time, we do not touch the thread.
We install the ties in place. We place a washer under each nut. We tighten, controlling the force, so as not to push through the wood and not to create excess pressure on the steps (the main task of the ties is to prevent spontaneous spreading of the bowstrings).
Using a hacksaw, remove the protruding parts of the studs. We carry out the same operation with the ends of the steps. Additionally (not metal, of course) the joints can be processed with a plane.
We install rubber shoes or pads, spikes and, if necessary, hooks. We fasten them with screws.
We finalize the surfaces with a plane and sandpaper (if possible with a sander), you can use a scraper.
We cover the surfaces with varnish or paint; the wood can simply be varnished.

Our ladder is ready, but in order to be sure of its reliability, you need to test it.

Video in this article:

Ladder test

In production, this operation is carried out with each staircase after production and every six months (it’s not a bad idea to do this at home), especially since the operation is not complicated.

The ladder is installed at an angle of 75 degrees (plus or minus five), this is its working position.
In the middle of one of the steps of the middle part, a static load of 120 kg is applied (a load is hung). Moreover, it should be suspended through a rigid pad covering 10 centimeters of the width of the step (simulating the load from the foot).
Inspect the stairs.

If there is no loss of strength and no damage is visible, the ladder is considered to have passed the test.

Advice. In production, the test results are recorded in a special journal. It indicates the test date, inventory number, unit affiliation and the date of the next test. The record is certified by the signature of the responsible person. Please take this into account if you are responsible for the safety of your subordinates at work.

I hope in our article we have given a comprehensive answer to the question - how to make a wooden ladder with your own hands? A staircase made in accordance with our recommendations will be truly reliable and safe. Enjoy working on it.

A wooden porch is considered optimal solution for your home. A wooden porch is relatively inexpensive and easy to manufacture compared to porches made from other materials. But very often people wonder, how to make wooden steps for the porch of a house with their own hands?

And this matter has its own nuances that must be taken into account during design and construction. Let's talk about this further.

Open.

This staircase design does not have risers

This design creates a feeling of airiness and stairs.

Closed.

This staircase design has risers.

This design involves steps that are closed in height.

Straight staircase. This type of staircase has the simplest shape and standard steps.
Winder staircase.The steps have an uneven tread size.

Radial. This type of staircase has round steps; they increase in length relative to the central axis.

Calculation of steps

grinding machine;
a circular saw;
pencil;
ruler.

The thickness of the boards for steps should be from 30 to 40 millimeters.

We make steps from wood

Do-it-yourself wooden steps for a porch, cut out according to a template, apply it to the board and trace it with a pencil. Only after this the identical steps are cut out with an electric saw.

After completion of the work, a wear-resistant coating is applied to the finished steps. Then they begin to assemble the ladder itself.

Steps for an outdoor porch made of wood can be attached:

to the stringers;
to the bowstrings;
pain. This is the most the hard way which requires a certain skill.

When assembling a staircase with your own hands, it is best to use the first two methods of attaching the steps.

Attaching steps to stringers

Attaching steps to stringers suggests a number of options for:

Attaching the steps to the string

If you attach the steps to a string, they fixed in the following ways:

Using wooden blocks;
Using metal corners;
In deep grooves. The steps for the porch are sealed with glue at the joints.

Wooden steps on a metal staircase

Installation of wooden steps on a concrete staircase

Concrete stairs are a reliable and durable structure, but not very beautiful appearance. Wood cladding allows you to give the structure an excellent decor.

But in this case, the product turns out to be quite expensive, twice as expensive as one made entirely from solid wood.

Before making a porch with wooden steps, it is necessary to correctly calculate the stairs, including the dimensions of the wooden boards in the overall dimensions of the structure.

To facilitate installation, it is necessary to carefully prepare the formwork.

Features of installing steps on concrete base are as follows:

The frame should dry well. Due to high humidity, the raw composition may begin to deform and crumble after drying;
After manufacturing, the ladder should remain undisturbed for preferably 90 days;
After complete drying, the structure is faced;
All irregularities and distortions are leveled with a screed. If unevenness is too large, self-leveling mixtures are used;
The surface is thoroughly cleaned and primed;
Sheets are glued on, which will allow for final alignment. concrete surface and provide moisture-proof insulation. The plywood is glued using a special mastic and fixed with dowels;
Wooden steps are installed. To connect the tread and riser, grooves are cut out in each part;
Installation of steps begins with the first, lowest riser. To fix it on the floor, bolts are screwed into the end of the step so that they protrude 6 cm;
Hats are cut off;
Places for installing bolts are marked on the floor;
Holes are drilled and filled with epoxy resin;
The risers are fixed;
On top, on plywood pre-coated with glue, a tread is placed with the next riser attached and fixed with self-tapping screws and glue;
A weight is placed on the step until the glue hardens.