Underfloor heating electric under linoleum installation. Electric underfloor heating under linoleum: types, do-it-yourself device options and step-by-step installation. Nuances of design and calculations

One of the hottest home decorating trends modern apartments and cottages is the organization of local or general floor heating. The easiest way to implement such a scheme is to put an electric warm floor under the linoleum.

Advantages and disadvantages

Warm floors are considered one of the most convenient systems for organizing the main heating of a home. This is facilitated by several advantages compared to conventional water circuits. However, in most cases, underfloor heating plays the role of additional heating installed in certain areas of the home.

For example, it is much more comfortable when a bathroom, hallway or insulated balcony has a floor surface with a comfortable temperature for the feet. There are also economic considerations here, since the implementation of such a project will cost several times cheaper than with continuous laying of warm floors.

There are two types of systems of this type:

  1. Water. The contour consists of special thin tubes laid in the floor screed. Heated water is passed through them, which contributes to an increase in surface temperature. The cost of operating a water heated floor is minimized, since the water for its operation comes from the main heating system of the house. According to building codes, it is forbidden to equip apartments in high-rise buildings in this way, so they are used exclusively in private dwellings.
  2. Electrical. More versatile products, where a special cable or infrared film acts as a heating element. You will have to pay more money for such a floor, but it is easier to install and adjust: the control system here is more accurate and faster. For this reason, electrical circuits are more popular among the population than water circuits.

Finishing options for underfloor heating

Having decided on which kind of underfloor heating to use, you need to choose the most suitable finish for it. The most versatile material in this regard is considered ceramic tile, perfectly combining with any kind of warm floors.

However, as you know, not all rooms can be used. As an alternative, they usually consider the option with linoleum, which is characterized by low cost and ease of installation. However, since warm floors this coating does not fit as well as tiles.


The reasons here are:

  1. Low thermal conductivity. Because of this, floor heating loses its effectiveness in many respects.
  2. Weak heat resistance. Due to prolonged exposure to elevated temperatures, linoleum begins to lose its decorative and operational qualities. This is expressed in a change in color, deformation and swelling of its surface. In addition, phenol fumes, which are harmful to human health, begin to enter the air.

However, linoleum can be quite successfully combined with underfloor heating: the main thing is to choose the right kind of this material. For example, it is advisable to refuse the use of thick coatings that protect well from the cold. Too thin material is also not suitable due to poor wear resistance. In addition, all the irregularities of the base quickly appear through its surface.

Modern types of linoleum are usually marked with the appropriate designations, indicating the possibility or prohibition of use with underfloor heating. Suitable Properties for such combinations has the so-called. "Natural" linoleum, in the manufacture of which natural components are used that do not contain harmful substances. As for “non-natural” materials, their use is also allowed: the main thing is to observe in this case the optimal temperature regime. Underfloor heating usually has operating temperature within 25-28 degrees: if it is not exceeded, then there will be no danger for floor heating under linoleum.

Which option of underfloor heating under linoleum to choose

Warm floors powered by electrical energy are divided into two large groups:

  • Electrical cable. These systems consist of a heating cable equipped with a special mesh. Then the whole structure is poured with a cement screed. More modern modifications are mats with a cable already laid in them. During installation, they fit right next to each other.
  • Infrared film. The device of these products is fundamentally different from the previous ones. Outwardly, this is quite a complex system has the appearance of a thin (up to 1 mm) dark film. It is based on graphite heaters, sealed on both sides with thin polyester. System switching with electrical network carried out using special conductors made of copper and silver. To control the level of heating, there is a thermostat, which is part of the standard package of the film floor. One of the main advantages of infrared systems is the low consumption of electrical energy.

The room is heated with a film floor due to infrared radiation: in this case, a finishing screed is not needed. For its laying, it is necessary to prepare a rough base well: from above, heating mats can be decorated with a finishing flooring. The film system is the most convenient option for underfloor heating in combination with linoleum. Significant heating is excluded here, so you don’t have to worry about the safety of the decorative coating.

Due to the small thickness, such a film can be laid at any time, even if the renovation of the premises has been completed long ago. In this case, the floor covering is dismantled, followed by leveling the base. Upon completion of the installation of the film, the finishing material can be laid back. In this case, a significant rise in the level of the floor does not occur. It is important to remember about the high cost of such systems and high quality requirements for the work performed. The base for the infrared film must be perfectly aligned, as the presence of any defect can provoke its rupture.

As for the option with a cable electric floor, it is also often used together with linoleum. However, you need to immediately prepare for more complex and time-consuming installation work, which will entail a more noticeable change in the level of the floor. The fact is that in this case, in addition to the floor screed, it will also be necessary to lay insulation, vapor barrier and other layers. During the operation of the cable electrical system, it is necessary to adhere to a temperature regime that is comfortable for linoleum + 22-25 degrees.

How to lay a film electric floor

Description of technology, how to properly lay a warm floor:

  1. Drafting. This is especially important in cases where rooms of a large area are made out. It is recommended to lay only open areas with a heating film - it is not needed under furniture. In addition, the weight of heavy objects can cause system failure. The distribution of strips is recommended to be carried out in the longitudinal direction, which will reduce the number of butt sections. If there is electrical wiring at the base of the floor, it must be indented by 5 cm. Other sources of heating (oven, fireplace, radiator, etc.) must be removed from the film at a distance of at least 20 cm.
  2. Foundation preparation. All dirt must be removed from the rough surface, drops and defects must be eliminated. This is best done with a leveling compound. Further installation work it is allowed to continue only after the filling has completely dried. To improve the heating efficiency, it is desirable to decorate the base with a layer of thermal insulation, gluing the joints with special adhesive tape.
  3. Film laying. The main task is to correctly distribute it over the entire floor area. Almost always, this requires cutting the film into separate fragments: this operation can only be carried out along special lines applied to the surface of the material. If you cut the film in any other place, it will cause serious damage to it.
  4. Fixation. Having laid the strips of material according to a previously drawn up drawing, how to lay an electric floor heating, they must be well fixed. This can be done with adhesive tape, staples or regular furniture nails. There are special transparent areas for fasteners along the edges of the film: it is forbidden to do this in other places due to the risk of damage to the heating circuit.
  5. Network connection. Having fixed the heating strips, they must be connected to electricity. For this, special contact clamps are included in the product kit. They are connected to the system in a special way: each element is inserted into the gap between the layers of the film and is connected to a copper wire. Strong fixation of each clamp is carried out with the help of an eyelet, which must be riveted with a special tool. If it is not available, a conventional hammer can be used for these purposes: you need to act very carefully to avoid damage to the graphite inserts. Further, the contact clamps are switched by pliers with a copper wire in a protective sheath.

A special waterproofing material is used to protect the cutting areas. It is important to remember that individual sections of the infrared floor are always connected in parallel, not in series. For convenience, the wiring on the way to the power source is placed under the plinth.


  • The individual parts of the film must be separated by some space. The presence of overlaps is unacceptable due to overheating of the material. This usually ends with a quick system failure and damage to the finish.
  • The temperature regulator during the operation of the film floor is not recommended to be set above +30 degrees. If linoleum is laid on top of the film, then the optimum temperature in this case will be +25 degrees.
  • Mounting temperature sensors is allowed only after a complete power outage in the house. Voltage supply is allowed after the installation and connection of the device is completed.
  • When starting to test the IR film, it is recommended to conduct a thorough inspection of all areas of switching contacts. It is very important that the protective insulation is not damaged.
  • When decorating a large area with a heating film, it is important to take into account the total power of the circuit. If this parameter exceeds 3.5 kW, it is better to equip it with a separate power cable in order to avoid network overloads.
  • Due to the minimum film thickness, the patch areas usually rise slightly above the surface. So that this does not lead to a deterioration in the general condition of the floor covering, the insulation in these areas needs to be cut a little, leveling the height.
  • The optimal place for installing the temperature sensor is those areas under the film where there are no heating elements. To fix this device, tape is usually used.
  • The system may only be tested after it has been connected to the thermostat. After turning on the underfloor heating, it is necessary to check the wiring connections. If defects are found, they must be corrected. A sign of high-quality work of a heat-insulated floor is uniform distribution of heat on its surface.
  • After the warm floor under the linoleum is correctly laid, a vapor barrier material is laid on top of the film: it is also fixed with adhesive tape. Then you can proceed to the final design of the floor.

Linoleum laying

Linoleum is one of those materials that usually does not cause any particular difficulties when laying. As we are talking about roll coating, then before laying it is necessary to achieve its alignment. For these purposes, the material is rolled out indoors and left for several days. If the room has a warm floor, then it must be turned on: this will speed up the process of leveling the linoleum.


To increase the final quality, it is advisable to lay a warm floor under linoleum on plywood or chipboard. fixation wood boards must be carried out very carefully, avoiding damage to the underlying IR film. Cable electric floor in this case is much more reliable. Linoleum is fixed on top of plywood with a special double-sided adhesive tape or glue. If a laminate is used over a warm floor, then it is better to put it on glue: this will increase the density of the coating and the uniformity of its heating. At the final stage, you need to install skirting boards that hide the wiring of the system and check the operation of the system again. This will allow you to choose the most suitable temperature regime.

Option to use a cable hearth for heating

In cases where a cable is used instead of a film electric floor, the installation procedure will be slightly different:

  • Before you properly lay the electric floor heating, a detailed plan for the location of the heating coils is drawn up.
  • All contaminants are removed from the surface of the base. If necessary - carry out its alignment.
  • Thermal insulation is being installed.
  • The mounting grid is laid and fixed.
  • Cable installation must exactly match the previously drawn up plan.
  • Connection of the thermostat and power supply is allowed only after the installation of temperature sensors.
  • After testing the system, it is poured concrete screed.
  • When the work surface is dry, you can start laying the finish coat.

The role of the heat-insulating material in this case is usually performed by expanded polystyrene plates or a material specially designed for cable underfloor heating. It has the appearance of a rubber mat, with bulges on the surface. Thanks to these protrusions, it is very convenient to fix the heating cable. In addition, it allows you to abandon the mounting grid. Temperature sensors must be installed at the same distance from the heating cable: their direct contact with the heating element or concrete screed is prohibited. A corrugated pipe case is often used as protection for the temperature sensor.


Film floor heating options are distinguished by a mass of positive consumer and technical qualities. They form the most favorable temperature background. They do not require a mandatory screed device, are easy to install, work perfectly in tandem with almost all coatings. You can arrange an infrared warm floor under linoleum with my own hands if you know the rules and subtleties of installation.

Infrared floor paired with linoleum

Affordability does not prevent linoleum from being a rather "capricious" coating. From heating, budget brands can warp, stretch or sit down. cheap material when the temperature rises, it can release toxins. Expensive representatives with an insulating backing nullify all attempts of heat to pass through them and reach the feet of the consumer.

Coating suitable for IR heating

Before the advent of film floors, the proximity of linoleum to "warm floor" systems required serious technical tweaks or was outright excluded. Direct cooperation with electrical or water circuits was only allowed for marmoleum - natural linoleum. Although serious claims are made against him for heat retention.

With the introduction of infrared heating systems, linoleum has joined the ranks of materials that allow you to arrange a "warm floor" under you. In addition, the manufacturers of numerous coatings have made significant changes to the formula, which ensured resistance to temperatures up to +35ºС and dimensional stability.

However, when choosing linoleum for laying on top of even an infrared heating system, you should carefully study the markings. It should indicate the compatibility of the material with electric underfloor heating. If the manufacturer's assurances turn out to be false - the coating will deteriorate from contact with the heating system, they must return the money for it.

You can get acquainted with good options and purchase linoleum on the Remontnick.ru website. They will advise you and help you choose what you need.

By the way, no one will compensate you for the losses that occurred due to a violation of the installation technology of the film floor. Lost funds will not be returned if the conditions for installing linoleum on top of infrared heating were not met. Therefore, it is worthwhile to deeply and thoughtfully familiarize yourself with the technological requirements for the construction of film systems.

Underfloor heating compatible with linoleum

The consumer is now presented with a wide variety of film heating systems.

There are options with a solid carbon heating element or with rectangular large segments. With their help, large health centers and public organizations. Mount such systems mainly in the screed.

In everyday life, the so-called striped films are most often used. The heat-releasing carbon in them is located in transverse stripes. The edges of the strips on both sides are clamped with copper and silver tires that provide energy to the elements, grounding and suppressing sparks. From the outside and inside, infrared heating systems are covered with a thin polymer film.

Depending on the function assigned by the manufacturers to the copper and silver busbars, film floors are laid up or down with the side with the copper strip. This technical point is indicated by the manufacturers in the instructions; close attention should be paid to it before laying a specific brand of infrared film.

Otherwise, the installation processes for all types of infrared underfloor heating are similar. They are carried out in stages with mandatory preliminary calculation, design and preparation before construction.

All types of film heating before laying linoleum require a protective layer of plywood, hardboard sheets, GVL or fiberboard 3-5 mm thick.

Nuances of design and calculations

Let us analyze the calculation procedure on a specific example of a Caleo brand film system device produced for laying linoleum. We take into account that this type of coating is used mainly in the arrangement of bathrooms, corridors, kitchens of high-rise and low-rise buildings reserved for winter Garden flights of stairs of private buildings and other similar premises.

Standard arrangement of layers in a cake

The linoleum floor heating cake will include five mandatory layers, these are:

  • Heat reflective lining. The use of materials such as Izolon or Infralex is recommended. The use of thermal insulation with a polypropylene or lavsan metallized outer shell is allowed. It is forbidden to lay materials with an aluminum foil backing under the infrared floor.
  • Infrared film floor. The system includes longitudinal panels with striped carbon coating, at least one temperature sensor and thermostat. The panels of the film system are connected to the power source in parallel using the terminals and wires available in the factory kit.
  • Polyethylene. It is laid on top of the heating system after it has been assembled and checked. Plays the role of waterproofing infrared electric floors. Maximum thickness 2 mm.
  • Protective hard layer. It is made of plywood, hardboard or similar material. Required for underfloor heating with a flexible finish.
  • Linoleum. Only brands compatible with electric underfloor heating are suitable.

When designing, it is necessary to take into account that the direct infrared type film warm floor is not placed under furniture without legs or with low legs. It is unwise to heat objects that do not need heat supplies, but are capable of consuming an impressive amount of it.

But the insulating substrate and a rigid layer are arranged over all areas of the room in order to withstand a single high-altitude floor level. Waterproofing, despite its negligible thickness, is laid similarly over the entire area in order to prevent water from penetrating into electrical system during wet cleaning.

Drawing up a laying scheme

For competent design, it is necessary to draw up a plan or an elementary diagram with scaled real dimensions. A handwritten project will help you correctly calculate the footage of thermal film and related consumables.

The panels of the heating system, waterproofing and heat-reflecting substrate are attached to each other with one- or two-sided adhesive tape.

In addition to these nuances, the design must take into account that:

  • It is possible to cut the IR thermal film only along the lines indicated by the manufacturer. Cutting at an angle and the formation of figured panels are not allowed.
  • Laying is done in parallel stripes. It is not allowed to overlap one panel with another.
  • A gap of at least 3 cm must be left between low-standing furniture and the film floor. An equivalent indent should be left between the edge of the panels and the walls: it will ensure heat removal in case of overheating.
  • It is recommended to lay the cut strips of thermal film with a side overlap so that there is a gap of at least 1 cm between the copper busbars of adjacent panels. The specified arrangement will ensure uniform heating of the floor.
  • The panels of the heating system should be as long as possible in order to minimize the number of connection points.
  • The connection points must be located on the side of the wall on which the thermostat will be installed. This will significantly reduce the footage of wires required for connection.
  • The laying of wires must be thought out so that their main array is located under the plinth.

It should be remembered that when cutting the film floor into short lengths up to 1m, additional insulation and the use of additional terminal clamps will be required. Those. you will have to purchase a mounting kit in addition to what is included in the package.

In advance, you need to decide on the type of thermostat, which can be built-in or overhead. To install the built-in variety, you will need a corrugated polymer pipe, used when laying in a groove, for open wiring a plastic cable channel is required. Large areas or floors in adjoining rooms may require additional temperature sensors.

Additional electrical and insulation

If it is planned to connect several sets of film floor to one thermostat, then the power consumption is determined by adding the capacities of all elements. The wire for connecting parts of the IR floor to the thermostat is selected in accordance with the result.

It is necessary to purchase the cable required to connect the thermostat to the mains supply, as in the factory set, a wire is provided only for connecting film heating to the thermostat itself. It must be selected in accordance with the maximum power required for the functionality of the system.

Do not forget that electric underfloor heating is arranged with the obligatory inclusion of an RCD in the network with a response parameter of 30 mA, acting on the wiring for 100 ms. Would need circuit breaker category C, designed to protect the current-carrying branch of 10 A.

If other electrical appliances are connected to the automatic protection devices, their power should be taken into account in the calculations. For a film floor that consumes 2 kW or more, it is recommended to arrange a separate branch with its own machine.

Film floor cake installation

Suppose that after designing and calculating, we have purchased an infrared floor kit with the most suitable width and the missing components of the pie in the required quantity. It remains to find out in what sequence and how to correctly lay the film infrared floor under the finishing linoleum.

Substrate laying and heating systems

First of all, a heat-reflecting substrate is laid, the strips of which are glued together into a single sheet with adhesive tape. In large rooms with an area of ​​more than 20 m 3, it is recommended to connect the substrate with double-sided adhesive tape in order to exclude its movement relative to the subfloor. Instead of double-sided tape, fixing with a construction stapler is suitable.

  • We cut the thermal film according to the instructions of our own project.
  • We try on the "pattern" to the place of future installation. If necessary, we trim, slightly change the width of the lateral indent and the gap between the walls and the heating system.
  • Having decided on the position of individual panels, we proceed to the assembly of the warm floor.
  • We lay the panels of the warm floor strictly with the copper bus down.
  • We isolate the bare contacts of the panels from the edge opposite to the connection side. We simply seal the cut sections of the silver and copper bus with bitumen tape so that contact with the external environment of both metal strips is completely excluded.
  • We install the contact clamps on the current-supplying strip of thermal film. To do this, we slightly peel off the polymer shell in order to insert one side of the clamp under it, and place its second side on top of the copper bus.
  • After checking the correct installation, we fix the clamp with force with pliers.
  • In accordance with the described scheme, we equip all contacts of the film floor with clamps on the side of connection to the thermostat.
  • We connect the strips with wires so that the phases are connected to the phases, and zeros to zeros. To do this, the package includes wires of two different colors. We remove the insulation from the connected ends of the wire and put them two or one at a time according to the design scheme into the clamp.
  • We isolate the connection points reinforced with pliers with two pieces of bituminous tape on both sides.
  • We connect the circuit to the thermostat.
  • In a convenient place, we install the temperature sensor with its convex side down and connect it to the thermostat. We glue it from below with bituminous tape. The sensor of the system under the linoleum must be positioned so that movement along it is excluded or the least intense.

The infrared floor heating system is assembled, the final work on arranging the contour and laying the finishing material remains.

The final stages of the IR floor device

In order for individual parts of the system not to stand out under the coating and not be subjected to undesirable mechanical stress, they should be “drowned” in an insulating substrate. To do this, we cut out "windows" and "trench" in the heat-reflecting layer under all the convex details: temperature sensor, contact clamps and wire routes.

Next, we test the operation of the film floor by connecting power to it. On the thermostat for the control check, set the value to + 30º C. We check the operation of each contact and the safety of the insulated points with a screwdriver indicator or a similar device. After making sure of the normal functionality of the infrared system, we cover it with polyethylene and lay a hard protective layer.

If necessary, a rigid layer assembled from plywood, GVL, hardboard, etc. fasten to the rough base with self-tapping screws so that the fixation points pass through the transparent edge of the film floor. It is more convenient to work with material that has a joint chamfer along the edge.

Do not forget that the infrared system needs to "breathe". Therefore, a gap of 1-2 cm should remain along the perimeter of the hard flooring, which, after the finishing coating is installed, is closed with a plinth.

We glue the double-sided construction tape used in laying linoleum to the constructed and fixed rigid subbase, and lay the finish coating itself.

Visually, the essence of the device of an infrared warm floor for the further laying of linoleum will be demonstrated by the video:

Calculation scheme and one of the options for laying an infrared film floor:

An overview of the film heating systems offered for sale, proven in practice:

There are not too many rules for the construction of infrared floor heating systems with linoleum as a topcoat. However, each of them must be observed in the name of the long service life of the film version. It is worth using a thermal film from a trusted manufacturer, and select components only of the same brand.

Modern market building materials offers a huge range of different linoleum floor coverings. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, which should be considered when choosing a particular material. A warm floor under linoleum should be chosen very carefully, as improperly selected material can cause certain problems.

Linoleum for underfloor heating

The thickness of the coating significantly affects the quality of thermal conductivity, but at the same time, a thin coating does not hide the imperfections of the floor on which it lies. Each existing unevenness will sooner or later make itself felt, therefore, before laying thin linoleum, it is recommended to withstand at room temperature during the day. If you use a warm floor under linoleum, then the exposure time should be increased. Linoleum is placed on the floor (without fixing), after which the heating system is turned on.

Fixing linoleum with mastic

We should also talk about fixing linoleum on the floor. In such cases, the use of double-sided tape or adhesive mastic is recommended. When using underfloor heating, mastic should be given, as it is able to provide a more uniform thermal field.

When choosing linoleum for a warm floor, you need to pay attention to some points that are an indispensable feature of any good quality flooring.

First of all, there must be a high thermal conductivity. In addition, there must be high resistance to discoloration and fading, as well as resistance to deformation resulting from exposure to high temperatures.

As such a coating, you can use multi-layer PVC linoleum, which goes well with almost all types of underfloor heating. It has a huge number of colors, can decorate the interior of any room. Of course, in addition to the advantages of this material, there are also disadvantages, the most important of which is the inability to use it at too high temperatures.


The most popular way of heating is a warm electric floor under linoleum, which is divided into cable and infrared types.

Cable and infrared underfloor heating under linoleum, reviews of which will allow you to more accurately determine the desired type of heating, cope with the task at the highest level. However, it is worth noting here that when combining them with linoleum, materials should be selected very carefully, since they must transfer heat well and be resistant to high temperatures.


Linoleum with a large thickness (with an additional heat-insulating layer) can slightly reduce the level of return from a warm floor. For this reason, the use of such linoleum is not always effective. The ideal option will be the use of a warm floor under linoleum, which has a small thickness and high resistance to mechanical and chemical stress.

An ideal solution that suits almost any type of flooring is an infrared floor heating system.

Infrared underfloor heating under linoleum completely transfers heat through the floor covering, and also provides high-quality ionization of the air in the room.

For information on how to choose a warm floor, read the link.

Underfloor heating under linoleum - installation and installation

  • First you need to determine the configuration and area of ​​​​the floor area, which will be heated in the future. Measurements should be taken only in those areas where objects will not be located. household appliances or furniture. The IR film must be placed along the entire length of the room, which will avoid too many connection points for the installation wires. If there is electrical wiring inside the floor, then it should be at a distance of about 50mm from the IR film and insulated from the floor or wiring with heat-insulating material. There must be a distance of at least 200mm between heat sources (pipes, ovens, fireplaces, etc.) and the IR film.
  • Then you should start preparing the heating elements, for which the heating film is cut along the cut lines along the heating strips every 250 mm. It is forbidden to cut the film along any other lines. Contact clamps are installed on the finished heating elements. In those places where current-carrying copper strips and a two-layer film pass, the wire tip is installed in such a way that it is located on the contact strip inside the thermal film. Then an eyelet is inserted into the hole, which must be riveted with a special stapler or hammer.
  • The cut lines of the contact strip are insulated on both sides using a waterproofing strip. Protected copper wires with a cross section of 1.5 sq. mm. brought to the tip and clamped with pliers. After that, the junction of the copper bus and electric wire with a tip on both sides must be insulated with a waterproofing strip. Parts of the heating film must be connected in parallel to each other, and the highest total power of the heating elements that are connected to the thermostat must not exceed 3500W.
  • When connecting the heating system, it is imperative to take into account the presence of other electrical appliances, which may also be connected to this network.
  • In the event that the total power of the heating system is more than 3500W, it is advisable to connect it using a separate electrical wiring, which is protected by a separate auto switch. In addition, the connection of heating devices should be carried out using a magnetic starter.

  • Then it is necessary to lay the thermal insulation with a reflective layer and fix it with adhesive tape.
  • Heating elements are laid on the thermal insulation with copper strips down. They should be laid in such a way as to avoid contact between adjacent strips. The heating elements are attached with adhesive tape, a stapler or furniture nails, which will minimize the likelihood of the bands moving during the laying of the coating.
  • Attach the heating elements only through the transparent rim located on the sides of the element. The heating element should be approximately 5mm away from any feed section of the element, which also includes the copper busbars. The wires should be arranged in such a way that the main ones are under the plinth. In those places where the contact strips are isolated and there is a thickening of the system, cuts are made in the thermal insulation in order to level the surface for the final coating.

  • Then you need to carefully inspect the system, as well as check the reliability of the insulation and fastening of the wires. After that, it is necessary to measure the resistance of the heating strips. If there are sources of a possible short circuit in the system, they should be eliminated, and then a second performance test should be carried out.
  • Using adhesive tape, a temperature sensor is attached under the cut line (where there is no heated section of the film). Heating elements and a sensor are attached to the thermostat.
  • Then you need to turn on the thermostat and leave it for a few minutes. Lean your hand against the heating element - the film underfloor heating under the linoleum should emit heat at a pleasant temperature.
  • After that, the infrared film is covered with a vapor barrier material, and the joints are fastened with adhesive tape.

The mounted warm floor is covered with Izospan thermal insulation
  • Fiberboard or plywood sheets are laid on the vapor barrier material, which are attached to the primary screed with screws and carefully aligned. Plywood sheets are attached only through a transparent rim located along the cut lines of the IR film and the sides of the element. The element should not be attached closer than 5mm from any feeding areas of the elements.
  • Further, on a warm floor under linoleum, the price of which will be lower than, for example, under a laminate coating, linoleum material is laid in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Linoleum is one of the most affordable floor coverings. Because there are probably so many different options on color scheme, by properties, by cost. Only the main groups of this coating are five: natural, rubber (relin), alkyd, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), nitrocellulose. In each group there are materials with and without a base. In this case, the base can be either natural - fabric, jute or felt, or synthetic - fiberglass, polyester, foamed PVC, etc.

Linoleum for underfloor heating

There are really a lot of varieties of linoleums, but not every one of them can be used in heated systems. Definitely you can not take a coating on a felt or "shaggy" jute base, the material with the main one on foamed PVC is also not suitable. These materials have a high degree of resistance to temperature changes (that is, they will not transmit heat well).

All the rest, in principle, can be used. But with one limitation: do not heat them above 27 ° C. This is the boundary temperature at which the coating behaves normally. Further heating will only lead to negative consequences: harmful substances will begin to be released, the coating may crack, warp (go in waves), lose, change color. Therefore, we either withstand this temperature, or lay special heat-resistant linoleums specially designed for heated floors. They have a special marking: pictograms are applied to them. You will see some of them in the picture.

Due to temperature restrictions, underfloor heating with linoleum can only play the role additional heating, but not the main one: that is, radiators or other heating appliances required.

Of all these groups, the most suitable coating is natural linoleum (also called marmoleum). Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is a little worse for heating - it can smell unpleasant when heated. The rest, although they can be used, do not give the best results: alkyds do not conduct heat well, rubber ones are rarely used for housing, because they feel best at low temperatures, nitrocellulose resists well in a humid environment, but quickly catch fire.

So, which linoleum is suitable:


But coatings of both types cannot be taken on a "hairy" or foamed basis. Most the best way- thin and dense. But then even the slightest flaws in the foundation will be visible. This is what the topcoat experts say (watch the short video).

Despite the fact that it seems: the choice is small, in reality, sellers will offer dozens, even hundreds of options. Only one online store of semi-commercial vinyl linoleums has more than 500 pieces, of which more than half are compatible with underfloor heating. There are among them famous brands like the German Tarkett or IVC, but there are domestic or less well-known ones. But your task is to find those offered specially (look for pictograms).

What type of heating is better to use with linoleum

If the coating is chosen correctly, then it is compatible with any heating element. It is important only during operation to withstand the temperature regime, to have a perfectly even base. The mode (not higher than 27 ° C) is easy to withstand if installed, and it is provided in any systems - in cable, and in infrared. flat base you still have to do it - pour the screed, or install plates during a “dry” installation.

There are several more options that can be installed quickly without a tie: these are cable mats from the Danish company Devi (Devi) - and similar heaters from the German company Thermomat TVK-130.

Mat for underfloor heating Devidry (Devi) outwardly resembles a rug, but it is a real heater: a heating cable and a layer of foil are hidden between two layers of foamed polymer for better heat transfer. "Termomat" Thermomat TVK-130 has a completely different look: a cable is fixed between two layers of reinforced foil. And this shiny finish also fits under linoleum. The laying technology here almost to the smallest detail coincides with that described above.

Cable mats for "dry" laying under linoleum

These three options can be used immediately after installation: there is no need to wait. All other methods provide for a screed device, and therefore at least 28 days must pass after laying - during this time the screed will seize. You can't turn on the heater before. By doing this, you will not speed up drying, but damage the electric heater itself and cracks form in the screed.

Under the linoleum in the screed can be laid: any type,. The underfloor heating pie for any of these heaters looks the same:


Metal mesh can play another role: it can serve as a grounding element. To do this, the grid elements are connected (it is better to solder the conductors, but it is quite possible to twist them in several places with bare copper wires), and one of the wires is connected to the ground bus. If the elements of electric floor heating have protective shells, it is enough to connect them to the corresponding bus on the same thermostat and nothing else needs to be grounded. Then you can put not a metal, but a polymer mesh. But if there is no shell, then metal grid required.

  • The last layer of the "pie" is a screed. Usually it is a cement-sand mixture with the addition of a plasticizer. But, if you want to have better thermal conductivity, use special blends for underfloor heating. They are more expensive, but have more suitable characteristics. There should be enough solution so that there is a layer of 2 cm above the cables or mats. The minimum layer above the water heating pipes is 3 cm (and preferably 5 cm). Another thing to pay attention to is to perfectly (or almost) align the screed. Linoleum behaves well on flat surfaces. In the presence of even the smallest irregularities, it is deformed. And in the case of warm floors, it turns out even worse: air accumulates in these places, which expands when heated, which leads to the appearance of bubbles and swelling of the coating. Therefore, it may be worth using self-leveling compounds for pouring. This will ensure a smooth surface.

After the screed has dried (at least 28 days under natural conditions), the coating can be applied. .

Many owners of apartments and private households on personal experience made sure that the heating of housing using the system floor heating much more comfortable than traditional room heating with radiators. Very often in houses and apartments linoleum is laid on the floor. Let's see how to lay a warm floor under linoleum, depending on its type.

Laying underfloor heating under linoleum

Regardless of the source of heating - water or electric, there are general rules laying underfloor heating under linoleum. Heating elements are laid on an area free from plumbing and bulky items. Heating system mounted with thermostats to prevent the floor heating temperature from exceeding 28 degrees. Underfloor heating electric under linoleum can be performed in two ways: with a screed device under linoleum and laying hard slabs under linoleum, that is, without a “wet” process. Under an electric heater must be laid thermal insulation material, which reflects heat and directs it upwards. It is desirable to use the material rolled with a coating of metallized lavsan film or polypropylene. Attention! Do not use material that has a reflective aluminum foil coating. Under linoleum, experts recommend using a lining with a soft layer, for example, isolon 3-5 mm thick.

Stages of installation of a warm floor under linoleum

  • Surface preparation - remove all unnecessary and level out irregularities.
  • Thermal insulation - so that the floor directs heat only upwards, a rolled thermal insulation with a reflective coating should be spread under the heating element
  • Laying an electric heating film - mark the film, cut along lines where there is no graphite layer, lay it out with a 10 cm indent from the wall, avoid stripes overlapping
  • Connection of heating elements - connection of a warm floor is carried out through a thermostat, the maximum area of ​​connection to a thermostat is 15 m2
  • Installation of protective material - according to its characteristics, linoleum belongs to the type soft materials and under external influences, it bends, can damage the infrared film, therefore, rigid sheets of glass-magnesite or gypsum-fiber sheets are laid on top of the heating and vapor barrier film
  • Laying linoleum - PVC canvases cut and laid out around the room should be in a free position for a day, then the canvases are fastened with double-sided tape, and if gaps form between the canvases, then they should be filled with special glue

Laying electric underfloor heating under linoleum

An electric underfloor heating with an infrared heating element is able to consistently provide the proper temperature, which is optimal for linoleum flooring. According to a special marking on the film, it is cut into strips of the desired length. To minimize the number of connection points, it is recommended to cut the film into strips of such length that they can be laid along the long side of the room.

Laying a water-heated floor under linoleum

After organizing the main layers under the water floor - the subfloor, the hydrobarrier of the insulation and the vapor barrier, they begin to lay the heat reflector. Then piping is performed from a single pipe in increments of 20 - 50 cm. The pipe system is filled with a screed, the layer of which above the pipes should be min. 45 mm. The screed is aligned with the beacons. After drying, I lay linoleum on an absolutely smooth surface.

The difference in the installation of underfloor heating

Electric heating for underfloor heating under linoleum is possible in two heating formats - cable and film infrared. The scheme of installation of the heating cable is identical to the laying of pipe wiring. The film format is the laying of a rolled film heater. Installation of electric heaters is easier and faster than for a water coolant.

Linoleum for warm water floor

To cover the heated floor, polyvinyl chloride multilayer linoleum is used. The power indicator of a warm floor under linoleum should be no more than 150 W / m2. This power provides heating of a floor covering to the recommended temperature of 26 - 28 degrees Celsius. Floor surface to be laid on roll material must be perfectly clean, as random grains of sand will eventually appear on the surface of the coating. High quality synthetic multilayer linoleum is a great flooring option. And yet the ideal coating is linoleum made from natural ingredients.

Advantages of a film underfloor heating under linoleum

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A universal solution for heating a room with linoleum flooring is an infrared warm floor. It provides a gentle floor heating mode, does not adversely affect the texture and performance of multilayer linoleum. Installation of heating strips is so simple that even a beginner in construction can handle it by following the instructions.

Infrared radiation is perfectly perceived by the human body. According to doctors, it not only contributes to the well-being of people, but also helps to cure many diseases. This fact becomes a weighty argument in favor of installing an infrared heated floor under linoleum.

underfloor heating film under linoleum

Warm floor under linoleum video