Penoplex refers to a new formation of a heat insulator, presented in the form of a plate of extruded polystyrene foam. Its main difference from conventional PPS is its higher density, strength and fire resistance. Its excellent thermal insulation properties can significantly save on space heating. In this article we will talk in more detail about the decoration of walls with foam plaster.

Pros and cons of facade insulation with foam plastic

The main advantages of the material:

• low thermal conductivity (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.03 W/mºK)
• resistance to compression and the ability to withstand mechanical loads, due to the homogeneous structure of the material, where evenly spaced pores increase the strength of the heat insulator;


• low water absorption (0.2 - 0.4% of the volume in 24 hours when fully immersed);
• withstands a wide temperature range: from -50 to +75 degrees;
• resistance to mold and decay;
• resistance to fire;
• good soundproofing qualities;
• light weight of the material - easy transportation;
• ease of installation, installation of plates is possible independently by one person. Standard sizes of penoplex: width 600 mm, length 1200 mm, thickness from 20 to 100 mm;
• versatility, the ability to insulate any building elements: walls, basement, foundation, roof, floor;
• safe, does not emit toxic substances;
• a long period of service, subject to proper use, not less than 50 years.

The disadvantages of the material include:

• low vapor permeability (0.007-0.008 mg/m h Pa). When using the material indoors, ensure good ventilation to prevent condensation and mold. It is also impossible to insulate aerated concrete without internal vapor barrier of the walls.
• high price - about twice as expensive as foam plastic and mineral wool.

Due to its heat-saving qualities and ease of installation, foam plastic has become widespread and is increasingly being used to insulate buildings, replacing conventional foam.

Can it be plastered?

Despite its moisture resistance, penoplex must be closed from atmospheric precipitation. In addition, it is necessary to create an attractive appearance of the building. Indoors, PVC and MDF panels are suitable for finishing this insulation. Outside the house, you can organize a ventilated facade of siding or wall panels.

It is possible to plaster penoplex both indoors and outdoors. This will be a universal finishing option. How to do this, and what is required for work, we will consider below.

Which mixture is best?

When choosing a plaster, one should take into account its features and climate conditions. Since the plaster must protect the insulation from mechanical, chemical and climatic factors, guarantee fire safety, increase heat and sound insulation characteristics, smooth out the unevenness of the base, giving the room an impeccable appearance.

There are such types of plaster mixes:

• Mineral. A mixture based on cement, sand, as well as plasticizers and adhesive additives. This is a good choice for use as a base coat for painting or decorative plaster . The solution is easy to apply, resistant to fire, moisture and mold. At the same time, it is inexpensive.
• Acrylic. Presented as a solution based on acrylic resins with mineral additives and dyes. Main advantages: a rich range of colors and textures, elasticity, strength, resistance to atmospheric precipitation and ultraviolet radiation. Creates a dense moisture-proof film.


• Silicone. Differs in high elasticity and durability. A versatile, high performance mix with a rich color palette and available as a ready-to-use mortar. The disadvantage is the high cost of the material.
• silicate the mixture is made on the basis of liquid glass, it protects well from frost, winds, humidity and temperature extremes. The composition has good vapor permeability, therefore it maintains a comfortable indoor climate. In work, it requires efficiency, because it quickly seizes.
• Silicate-silicone plaster contains a water-repellent additive, mineral fillers and coloring pigments. The technical characteristics include increased mechanical resistance and elasticity, resistance to atmospheric precipitation and good adhesion to the surface.

Let's summarize which of the plasters is better. To create protection against mechanical damage and for additional thermal insulation of the building, cement-sand-based plaster is suitable. But the plastered surface will be unattractive. Therefore, it will be necessary to additionally paint the facade or apply a layer of decorative plastering.

Of the above compositions, silicone will be the most durable, but also the most expensive. When choosing texture and color, only the customer’s opinion will be decisive, which finish is closer to him: “bark beetle”, “fur coat”, stone imitation or other types.

How to plaster outside and inside the room: a step-by-step instruction

The plastering process is not particularly difficult, but must be carried out in compliance with the technology.

To work, you will need tools:

Necessary materials:

Foundation preparation

1. Blow out the seams between the plates mounting foam;
2. After hardening, cut off the excess foam with a knife and rub with a grater;
3. Deepen the dowel caps. If it is not possible to drive them in, then you need to cut off the hat and hammer another dowel next to it, having previously made a hole under it;
4. At the end of the work, treat the walls with a deep penetration primer.

mesh reinforcement

Plastering foam

The application of facade plaster should be carried out under favorable weather conditions:

• air humidity - 65-70%;
• optimal temperature indicators in the range from 5 to 25 degrees above zero;
• no strong wind.

How to paint penoplex?

Plastered insulation, prepared for finishing, can be painted with any facade paint: acrylic, silicate, latex or water-based.

Sometimes penoplex is used not as a heater, but as a material for decoration. For example, on his sheets cut brick or stone masonry.

In this case, when painting, do not use paints with solvents. They will corrode the styrofoam. Acrylic or water-based formulations are well suited.

Let's summarize. Plastering foam plastic does not require much experience or special skills. But you need to remember about the use of reinforcing mesh and adhesive plaster solutions. Simple technology gives great possibilities for wall decoration and allows you to create a unique look for warm facades .

We hope this article was helpful to you. Leave your feedback and questions in the comments below.

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Mixture preparation

The construction market is rich in a huge range of a wide variety of materials, vapor-permeable plaster alone is produced by a number of manufacturers.

What facade plaster to choose? The most popular brands are Ceresit, Ecomix and Stolit. In any case, when carrying out work, it is necessary to use plaster from only one manufacturer, since the difference in the properties of the mortar from different manufacturers can be fatal to the entire finish.

Facade plastering on expanded polystyrene or other materials should be carried out strictly according to the instructions from the manufacturer - if in general the description of the process is found in many places, then specific numbers for certain cases are indicated in the official instructions.

Unless otherwise stated in the latter, then plaster mortar over the plaster mesh is applied in a lower concentration than indicated by the manufacturer of the product.

Different manufacturers may produce more than one mixture for finishing insulation. If there is one mixture in the set, then it is universal, if there are two of them, then one is needed for gluing the foam and installing the protective layer, and the second for gluing the foam to the base.

In what follows, we will consider only the universal mixture.

The calculation of facade plaster must be made from the fact that 1 square meter on average, it takes up to 4 kg of material for mounting the grid, as well as no more than 6 kg for the subsequent alignment of the planes of the walls.

We repeat that more accurate figures can be indicated in the instructions from the manufacturer. They can also vary depending on the thickness of the applied layer.

Building practice shows that the consistency of wet facade plaster should be slightly more liquid than indicated by the manufacturer. The recommended concentration will not worsen anything, but will increase the consumption of the mixture. In the process of preparing plaster for leveling walls, the mixture must be at such a concentration that it viscously flows down from the working tool.

How to apply decorative bark beetle plaster on the walls and facade of the building can be found in the relevant material.

Reinforcement of the surface of the facade and walls

The plaster reinforcing mesh is necessary so that the applied mixture is fixed on the heat insulator.

For materials such as polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam, it is recommended to use an alkaline mesh. It has a higher cost, but it certainly will not cause the plaster to collapse before the time allotted to it.

In the case of facade works, the mesh is usually applied with a density of 140 to 160 g/sq.m. You can also choose a higher density, in which case the plaster layer will only turn out smoother. There is only one limitation in this case - a dense mesh is inconvenient for pasting corners.

If on the planes the grid sticker does not raise questions, then when working on the corners, everything is a little more complicated. In addition, you should start from the corners.

First of all, you need to separate the strip with a long side of a meter and a wide side of 0.3 m. In the center, this strip is bent - after bending, there should still be a residual rib on its surface.

Then, using a suitable spatula, the plaster mortar is applied to the corners of the building - the thickness of the application layer (excluding the grid) should be about two to three millimeters. As the described process is completed, a mesh is attached to our wall, which is pressed with a spatula, and then carefully smoothed out with gestures down, to the left and to the right of the corner being processed.

After gluing the corners, they move to the planes of the walls. The mesh roll is cut into 1 meter pieces - this size is due to the fact that larger pieces are simply not very easy to glue - the plaster can dry out before you finish spreading it.

A 35 cm spatula should be used to apply the façade plaster mixture. The thickness (excluding dried layers) of the plaster is 3 mm, the width of the strip is 90 cm, the length is 1 m. At the edges, gaps of five centimeters should be left for gluing the borders.

After the above steps, the mesh is applied and smoothed from top to bottom, starting from the central part. It is important that the mesh is pressed into the solution, and not superimposed on top. To do this, you can use a little additional mixture.

After they have completed with one vertically oriented strip, without waiting for drying, they proceed to the next one, mounting the mesh elements with an overlap. Otherwise, the joints may not be glued. Near the corners, the joints are also glued one on top of the other.

After that, as the grid is completely glued, it is necessary to wipe it in an undeniable order. A similar method is also used in the technology of a wet facade on foam plastic, when the reinforcing mesh is rubbed with building mixtures and plaster.

This process is done using sandpaper and a plastic grater. And do not forget that the grout is done on already dried material. Grouting is done in a circular motion with a slight pressure on the surface. The direction of movement is counterclockwise. Do not use an emery cloth further if damp plaster has got into it.

Surface leveling for finishing

Now the entire resulting pie needs to be leveled. This process is done, oddly enough, again using the universal plaster mix that was used earlier.

Highly important point in this process is the completion of work on one wall without interruption.

Alignment is done as follows:

• A leveling compound is applied to a 35 cm spatula. You need to put it with the help of an additional small spatula.
• The mixture is distributed with uniform movements on the working wall. The thickness of the new layer of material is most often about three millimeters.
• The joints of individual sections should not coincide with the joints of the grid - place them the farther, the better.

Leveling grout and primer

Grouting in this case is performed in a similar way - in a counterclockwise circular motion. Only now the time to start grouting is more strict - you should not start the process earlier than 24 hours after the completion of the last layer.

In addition, this time you will have to work until now until perfect smoothness is achieved.

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How to choose

In order to choose plaster for penoplex, it is necessary to take into account a number of parameters that a particular product has. Capable of providing the best protection penoplex, but to obtain a high-quality result, it is necessary to take into account environmental conditions.

Types of decorative plasters for interior decoration, photos and other data can be seen in this article.

1. Of minerals, it has a number of properties useful in construction. It is moisture resistant, not subject to weather influences, it is conveniently and evenly applied during painting, fungal and moldy lesions do not form on it. Manufacturers were able to achieve this effect using a combination of cement and polymers. Works great in wet areas.
2. Acrylic is very moisture resistant and elastic, and also well resistant to the sun's rays.. Localized such plaster is best used on walls that may be subject to deformation, or in rooms with high humidity.
3. silicate. The most effective variety at the moment, which not only has high resistance to moisture and elasticity, but also has antistatic properties, high steam throughput, resistance to precipitation weather manifestations. This type of plaster is well suited for both interior and exterior exterior finish penoplex.

What types of plasters exist for interior work and other data can be found in this article.

The service life of each type is different. Mineral plaster is not resistant to deformation. It should be borne in mind that the surface plastered with a textured mixture will be the most stable, the smoother the plaster layer leaves, the more it will be subject to deformation and less durable.

How to use warm plaster for interior work can be found in this article.

The video tells about the plaster on foam:

About what is better to make walls with plaster or drywall can be found in this article.

Necessary materials

For facing a wall covered with foam, you will need several types of material:

• Reinforcing mesh. For each square meter of coating, 4 kg of material is needed.
• Spatulas large and small.
• Emery grater for leveling the mesh layer.
• For priming, you will need a roller with a short pile surface.

How to use silicone plaster for the facade can be found in this article.

If desired, the last layer of plaster can be shaped with a porous sponge to create irregularities in the decorative plan. Any tools, spatulas and rollers can be used - only the builder's imagination leaves limits. However, this step is not required. In some cases, it is preferable not to paint the plaster, some mixtures cannot be painted at all. You can find out whether it will be possible to arrange the purchased plaster by reading the instructions on the packages.

What is the consumption of bark beetle plaster per 1 square meter can be found in this article.

Application

The step-by-step process of applying plaster on penoplex has the following algorithm:

1. First of all, you need to prepare the plaster mixture itself. To do this, you need to use the instructions from the manufacturer on the product packaging, but in order to save material, you can make the mixture a little more liquid than the instructions suggest - this will not affect the quality of the coating.
2. The next step is to fix the reinforced mesh on the wall. You need to start from the corners of the wall, applying the mesh and fixing it with a mixture. From the edge of the wall, you need to move forward, evenly distributing the mesh and plaster with a spatula. The recommended layer of plaster for fixing is 2 mm.
3. Now you need to completely smooth the mesh and hide it under a layer of plaster. Now you need to move from the center to the edges of the wall. Adding plaster is necessary just enough so that the metal is completely hidden.
4. The next step is to level the plaster layer. To do this, it is necessary to wipe the surface with emery, but only completely dry. Another plaster layer is applied on top, up to 3 mm thick. After several days of drying, it must also be rubbed with an emery grater.
5. Now you need to carefully prime the dried and worn surface. The most important thing at this stage is to carry out all the work carefully, avoiding the appearance of streaks on the wall. Excessive layer compaction will lead to a long drying time and severe unevenness on the wall surface.
6. The last step is the finish coat. With small squares, the wall is filled with a uniform plaster layer, of the same thickness over the entire surface. If desired, a surface texture is created at this stage, or the entire surface can be completely smooth. However, as mentioned above, a smooth plastered wall has a much lower resistance to external damage. After the finish layer has dried, the wall can be covered with paint or varnish, at the discretion of the developer.

Do-it-yourself textured plaster from putty video and other data can be found in this article.

On the video - foam plaster outside:

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Features of penoplex

Synthetic foam products from polystyrene have been made for a long time, for more than 70 years. Penoplex differs from traditional plates in production technology, in which extrusion is used. Blowing agents are initially added to the polymer, which ensures an even distribution of cavities throughout the mass. As a result, after extrusion, a structure with closed microscopic cells is formed, the size of which does not exceed 0.2 mm.

The main qualities of the plates are as follows:

• low density;
• light weight;
• well-defined ability to retain heat;
• minimal tendency to absorb moisture.

With all its advantages, the material requires increased attention due to its high flammability and poor vapor permeability. It is necessary to use penoplex correctly, taking into account the obligation to ensure good ventilation of the walls and the need for especially strict adherence to fire safety rules. To protect against external influences, plaster is applied to the foam.

Why plaster

Plastering is a necessary part of finishing work, allowing you to safely invest in thermal insulation without fear of its destruction in the future.

External plaster protects the facade from wind, precipitation, which can damage the material. The internal plaster layer on extruded polystyrene foam can serve as an additional decorative finish.

Penoplex is a durable polymer, however, with strong local mechanical loads, dents can form on it, due to which cracking on the sheets is not excluded. If the coating is plastered, its impact resistance will increase, an additional layer of protection of the synthetic board from the action of UV rays will appear.

The heat-insulating coating of foam sheets has joints, which are usually sealed with mounting foam. To form a perfectly flat surface, protect the seams from aging, plaster must be applied on top of the sheets and seams.

Necessary tools and materials

In order for the case to be argued easily and quickly, you need to think through everything in advance, collect the necessary materials, aids, and tools.

There are different brands of plaster mixes, primers that have a similar basic composition, which does not exclude the presence of small features in the nature of impurities. To finish the wall, the room as a whole, it is advisable to stock up on a sufficient amount of material from one manufacturer. This will eliminate the possibility of incompatibility of mixtures, they will be ideally combined with each other in work.

Advice! Prepare in advance devices for mixing the plaster mixture. There are many options: from the usual long wooden spatula or spatula to a drill with a special nozzle. Pick up good, comfortable spatulas with an ergonomic handle that allows you to easily move them around the plane.

To improve the adhesion of foam plastic with a paste-like mass of plaster, the surface is treated with a metal brush or a spiked roller. Roughness will improve adhesion, ensure reliable adhesion of the composition to the insulation.

Finishing the outer corners requires special perforated corners and levels to check the correct installation. Be sure to buy a reinforcing mesh, without which all work loses its meaning. In some places, you will need glue to fix it. Study the composition, recommendations for use in advance. To grout the surface, you need to purchase a plastic grater with sandpaper. The final finish is conveniently carried out with a roller with a small dense pile.

Types of mixtures

Stucco on foam plastic for the facade requires strength, it should not change under the influence of precipitation. There are compositions for universal and narrowly targeted purposes. When choosing, all possible types of coating loads should be taken into account.

Multifunctional tools

The universal composition can be used at several stages of finishing work. With such plaster, you can fix the penoplex to the wall, then fix the reinforcing mesh on the outside on the sheets. With a universal mixture, you can not only plaster, but also pre-prime surfaces. The tool costs a little more than the compositions of a strictly directed action. The higher price is offset by the possibility of multifunctional use.

Mineral Remedies

Popular with craftsmen is the cement mixture, which includes sand and a small amount of polymer filler that improves the fixing of the material on the surface. Often such plaster is called mineral because of the predominant amount of inorganic components. The mixture must be prepared in accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturers, which often contain instructions on the need to add PVA glue to the mass. If the accompanying documents do not specify the introduction of additional components, there is no need to do this yourself. Some plasters contain gypsum and stabilizers. Such mixtures are very plastic, stick to foam more slowly.

If there is not enough money to purchase ready-made plaster, you can make the compositions yourself from two components:

• cement and lime;
• clay and lime;
• clay and cement;
• clay and plaster.

This is not the best solution, especially since the type of clay is fundamental to the quality of the plaster. With the right clay, quality cement and slaked lime, the mixture can turn out to be quite successful. Mineral compositions can be plastered facade insulation outside and putty penoplex inside the room.

Acrylic

Mixtures based on acrylic polymers are intended primarily for finishing areas located in areas high humidity, high mechanical loads. The cost of polymer plasters is more than mineral compositions, but the greater resistance to external influences justifies the difference in price. Acrylic plaster masses have great elasticity, which makes it easier to work with them.

silicate

A successful combination of properties is demonstrated by silicate plasters, which do not contain polymer additives, therefore, they are not electrified. Silicates pass steam well, do not collapse under the influence of atmospheric moisture, and do not undergo microbiological destruction. This is the most acceptable mixture with which you can plaster both external and internal walls. It is enough to correctly process the surfaces once and you can not have problems for many years. Silicate material is environmentally friendly, does not contain harmful impurities, guarantees the cleanliness of the adjacent airspace.

Notable Manufacturers

On the domestic market of plastering materials, products from different manufacturers are presented. The following three brands are most widely used:

• "Ceresite";
• "Ecomics";
• "Stolit".

There are imported products and mixtures of other domestic companies, the characteristics of which are always indicated in the attached instructions.

Ceresit products are presented in a large assortment, including all types of plaster: silicate, silicone, acrylic, cement. The products have good performance characteristics, are easy to use due to elasticity, and are durable.

Ekomiks plasters can be used for outdoor work or for interior walls. The compositions are characterized by environmental safety, resistance to moisture. Work on finishing facades using plaster of this company should be carried out in the warm season, at temperatures not less than +7 ° С. Mixtures can also be used to eliminate defects: chips, cracks, deformations on old surfaces covered with plaster for a long time.

The range of the company "Stolit" is represented by compositions based on cement, to which stabilizers and modifiers are added. Due to this, the plaster has high heat resistance, does not react to elevated and negative temperatures, and is well attached to the foam.

Solution preparation

Recommendations for the preparation of mixtures available for sale are contained on the packages and in the accompanying documents. When buying, you can get additional advice about the features of the funds, the specifics of their preparation.

At self-manufacturing plasters should remember the main points. The components taken in accordance with a specific recipe must be well sieved and mixed. It is advisable to check the stickiness of the mass before starting work. If the plaster adheres strongly to the trowel, it will be difficult to apply. In this case, the amount of filler should be increased. If the mixture does not stick at all, you need to increase the amount of astringent additives. By sampling, the average fat content of the mixture should be selected, because with excessive viscosity, the plaster layer may crack after drying. Insufficiently sticky mixture is not very convenient to use, forms a layer with little strength.

Reinforcing mesh installation

Before applying a layer of plaster, foam plastic must be strengthened with special nets. Polymeric cellular fabrics with a density of at least 140 g/m2 and not more than 160 g/m2 are best suited for reinforcement. The general rule is that the smaller the cells, the better the reinforcing properties. A high-quality mesh with suitable characteristics helps to level and strengthen the surface of the foam.

Note! If cement-based plaster is to be used, the mesh must be inert to an alkaline environment.

Reinforcement must start from the corners. To do this, cut strips from the grid, the width of which should not be more than 35 cm, and the length is determined by the length of the corner. The strip is folded in half along the length, the composition for fixing is applied to the penoplex and the mesh is pressed against it.

Similarly, the reinforcement of the entire wall is performed. First, a layer of fixing mixture (plaster) is laid, then the mesh is pressed against it, smoothed and made sure that it is fixed. The reinforcing fabric should be overlapped, because areas not covered with a polymer mesh will stand out noticeably against the general background. On top of the cellular coating, a thin layer of fixing mixture is applied, which ensures its snug fit, strong fixation.

Grouting and leveling

High-quality wall decoration cannot be carried out hastily. The reinforcing layer must be completely dry before starting the next stage of work. Knocking may be needed for final drying in winter, in summer it is enough from 4 to 6 hours. When the coating is completely dry, before it can be plastered, it is necessary to carry out a thorough grouting of the surface.

This physically demanding job is done with an emery-coated plastic float. The grout is carried out in a circular motion over the entire area until the surface becomes evenly rough.

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Features of insulation and materials used in the work

Very often there is a question - is it possible to plaster penoplex without preliminary preparation? Everything is simple here - if you do not follow the technology, then the coating will most likely fall off in a couple of years. But if you do everything right, then the plastered surface will last a very long time.

Most often, insulation is used outside buildings, less often - indoors. This is due to the fact that the penoplex almost does not allow evaporation and, when used from the inside, the dew point can be inside the wall, which negatively affects its strength.

The choice of plaster

If you decide to do the plastering with your own hands, then you need to choose the composition for finishing. There are currently three main options:

• Mineral compositions. They are made on the basis of cement and have a number of advantages: low cost, durability and good resistance to weathering and moisture. This is the most popular variant of plaster mixtures, which is used most often. The composition is versatile, it can be used both for gluing a reinforcing mesh and for finishing the surface, but there are also separate options with fillers for decorative finishes.

• Acrylic based formulations. Most often used for finishing and may have different structure. They are durable and have good moisture resistance, most often sold in ready-made in plastic buckets. A significant disadvantage is the high cost, this option will cost much more than the first, moreover, such mixtures cannot be used for gluing the mesh.

• silicate mixtures. An excellent option for facades, characterized by high elasticity and resistance to moisture. On the surface, a moisture-proof layer is obtained, which at the same time has good vapor permeability from the inside. Most often, the compositions are sold ready-made and have fillers in the form of pebbles or other materials, it all depends on the texture that is obtained during finishing.

• Silicone based formulations- most modern solution. The coatings are reliable and durable, they are not afraid of moisture and do not crack over time, since the layer is elastic and stretches under deformation effects and temperature changes. The only negative is the high price, this is the most expensive solution to date.

Work materials

In addition to the plaster composition, you will need a number of other materials:

Illustration	Description
	Dowels for thermal insulation. Used for additional fastening of the material on the wall. Even if you have glued the sheets securely, be sure to install additional fasteners before plastering them. It will eliminate surface deformations. The length is selected according to the thickness of the insulation, the fasteners must protrude at least 50 mm.
	facade mesh. It is used to reinforce the surface and create a stabilizing layer that is resistant to cracking and improves the adhesion of the plaster to the smooth surface of the foam. The mesh density must be at least 160 grams per square, when choosing, check whether the cells are even and whether the material is stretched.
	Facade primer. It is applied on the first leveling layer to improve adhesion and strengthen the surface. Use only special compounds that are weather resistant.
	Mesh corners. To strengthen the corners of the building and the edges of the openings, you need a special corner with a grid. Usually it is made of plastic, therefore it has excellent moisture resistance and does not collapse under the influence of water.

The working process

Let's figure out how to do the job right:

Illustration	Description
	Surface being prepared. First, the sheets are fastened with dowels, if this has not been done before. There must be at least 2 fasteners per sheet if it has been securely glued before. Secondly, the plane is checked, if there are protruding sections, then the wall surface is leveled, it is most convenient to use a special grater or planer to quickly remove excess material. The smoother the surface, the easier it is to plaster. If there are noticeable gaps between the sheets, it is easiest to fill them with mounting foam. The protruding parts are cut off after the composition dries.
	Preparing a solution for a leveling layer. Most often, an adhesive composition is used for work, with which the penoplex was glued. It is most convenient to work with a drill or a special mixer, a power tool significantly speeds up the workflow, in addition, the quality of the finished composition is much better than with manual mixing. The proportions of the components will be prompted by the instructions on the package, follow its recommendations.
	Work is done like this: A piece of mesh is cut off, the length should be 10-20 cm more than the height of the wall. Work begins from any site, the grid is located vertically, after which a layer of glue approximately 3 mm thick is applied to it. The mesh should be pressed into the surface and firmly adhere to it. You can do otherwise: first, apply glue to the foam with a notched trowel, and then press the mesh and level the surface with an ordinary facade trowel.
	Corners reinforced with corners. To do this, the elements are cut into pieces of the desired length, after which they are slightly seized with glue, and then completely tightened with the composition.
	Excess mesh at the bottom is cut off with a construction knife. This results in a perfect match and there is no need to accurately measure anything in advance.
	The first layer rubs off. No need to wait for the surface to dry completely. The work is done 2-3 hours after applying the composition, the grater allows you to remove small flaws and bring out the plane. After leveling, the walls are primed, it is most convenient to apply with a roller. Usually one layer is enough, which dries from 1 to 4 hours.
	Finishing is done like this: The plaster mortar is prepared as recommended in the manufacturer's instructions on the package. If you have a ready-made composition, then before using it must be thoroughly mixed. Decorative plaster is applied as prescribed by the instructions. Different variants distributed in different ways, it all depends on the type of composition and texture that you want to get in the end. If necessary, after the coating has dried, the walls are painted. But it is easier to use a color composition to simplify and speed up the work.

Today, the issue of home insulation is quite relevant.

Styrofoam and foam plastic are very popular for keeping warm in the house. These materials are made from extruded polystyrene.

They are used for thermal insulation of walls both indoors and on the facade.

Penoplex insulate the foundation, basement, floor, ceiling, roof.

Expanded polystyrene is a unique material whose history begins in France in the 30s of the 20th century.

It is used as a heat-insulating and structural material. They are used both in construction and in aircraft and shipbuilding.

This insulating material has many advantages:

• Excellent thermal insulation characteristics;
• High moisture resistance;
• Withstands severe frosts (up to minus 40 degrees);
• Environmental friendliness;
• Long service life under observance of operating conditions;
• Affordable price;
• Easy to handle and install.

Why plaster insulation

Despite the many advantages, the insulation also has disadvantages:

1. Subject to mechanical stress;
2. Under the action of sunlight is deformed.

Therefore, this material itself needs protection from the effects of various environmental factors. And foam plaster is required. Most often, plaster is used for this. What mixture is suitable for plastering this insulation? Let's try to figure it out.

Choose the composition

For facing foam plastic, several types of plaster are used. All of them differ in component composition and are characterized by certain properties. So, there are such types of solution:

• Plaster based on mineral components;
• silicate mixture;
• Acrylic plaster.

mineral mix

So, the mineral composition is made from cement and various polymer additives. Such plaster is characterized by high resistance to moisture, resistance to fungus and mold. The price of such plaster is quite affordable. Due to the elasticity of the mixture, it is easy to apply on the treated surface. This is a great option for protecting insulation.

silicate mixture

The silicate composition has unique properties. In the production of such plaster, liquid glass is used, which gives the solution excellent abilities. Thanks to these components, the plaster adheres perfectly to the surface, becomes durable after drying, and is not afraid of water and moisture. Therefore, it is used both for interior decoration and facades.

Acrylic plaster

Acrylic plaster is used to finish the surface, which is exposed to moisture and the sun. All this is possible due to the components that are present in the composition of such a mixture. So, where the cement mortar does not cope with the task, the acrylic mixture will come to the rescue. And the cost of such a solution, of course, is higher.

Manufacturers of building materials offer the consumer a large selection of plasters. Various mixtures from Knauf and Ceresit have proven themselves to be excellent.

Plastering penoplex

Foam plaster has a certain technology. If these steps are performed correctly, we will get excellent results. So the order is:

1. We prepare the solution
2. Installation of reinforcing mesh;
3. Surface grouting;
4. Padding;
5. Surface leveling;
6. Grout.

Preparing the mixture

The first stage of our work is the preparation of the mixture. It is necessary to prepare the solution, following the instructions in the instructions. For the processing of expanded polystyrene, craftsmen use both universal mixtures, with which they glue the insulation segments to the wall and apply on top, and narrow-purpose mixtures.

Usually, the manufacturer indicates the consumption on the packaging. But the average can be calculated using the formula:

• When reinforcing, you need about 4 kg of the mixture per 1 square meter;
• For leveling - 6 kg per 1 square meter.

These figures also depend on the thickness of the plaster layer: the thicker the layer, the greater the consumption.

Advice from the master: To glue the reinforcing mesh, make the solution thinner than indicated on the package. And for alignment - the solution should be in consistency like jelly.

Reinforcing mesh installation

The use of a reinforcing mesh for foam plaster is a prerequisite for a high-quality finish of the insulation. Otherwise, after drying, the solution will crack and fall off.

We begin to fasten the reinforcement from the corners and slopes. To save on mounting corners, you can make such profiles from the grid with your own hands. We cut off a strip about 35 cm wide and bend it in the center along the entire length. Next, we apply the solution to the surface and apply our workpiece, slightly pressing into the mixture. And so we do with all corners. After that, glue the mesh over the entire remaining surface. At the same time, as if drowning our grid in the solution. We glue the strips overlapping each other - about 5 cm. We smooth the grid from the center to the bottom, and from the center - up.

Applying plaster

Next, we move on to grouting the surface. To do this, use a plastic grater with an abrasive strip. This operation is done after the plaster is completely dry. If it's hot outside, it will take a couple of hours. Well, if it's damp and cold, then you have to wait a day. We make movements with the tool in a circle counterclockwise.

After that, the surface must be primed. The primer promotes good adhesion of the finish coat and the surface. Now let's start leveling the surface. To do this, we need two spatulas - large and small. With a large spatula, evenly apply the plaster to the surface. The layer thickness should be about 3 mm.

After the solution has dried, we proceed to grouting. You can do this work in a day, not earlier. We rub the surface to a smooth state.

Often during the repair the question arises: how to paint penoplex without plaster. Masters advise the following: given the features of this insulation, you can paint with mineral paint, water-based emulsion or a composition based on liquid glass.

How and how exactly to plaster penoplex? Do I need to use it for interior decoration in a living room? Is a preparatory primer of the heat insulator required? In this note, we intend to answer these and other questions.

Insulation inside foam.

Distinctive characteristics of the material

First, let's start getting acquainted with the main features of a heat insulator.

What is penoplex? This is the only company under which extruded polystyrene foam is made. From a more common material for us - polystyrene - it is important that it stands out only for its great rigidity.

Interesting: we will immediately disperse one of the myths that are around the material for insulation by the diligence of managers. The thermal insulation properties of foam plastic do not stand out in any significant way against the background of foam plastic. The difference is practically within the limits of inaccuracy, and it is explained by a decent number of tightly closed air cells in the material configuration.

Compare the heat conductivity of non-pressed (styrofoam) and extruded (styrofoam) polystyrene foam.

The properties of foam directly follow from the raw materials used in its production and the structure of the material.

• Rigidity is greater than that of polystyrene, but not happy. A thin plaster layer on its plane requires reinforcement: otherwise, the very first bruise will become the center of a network of cracks, they very quickly lead to peeling of the coating.
• The material is vapor permeable, although to a lesser extent than polystyrene.
• Polystyrene releases poisonous and volatile styrene even with a fairly low heat.. If so, when warming inside, he asks for reliable isolation from the living room.
• The adhesive properties of its plane will somewhat lose to the adhesive features of the foam.

Raw expanded polystyrene is a flammable material; but in the manufacture of penoplex, flame retardants are added to the raw materials, which makes it self-extinguishing.

materials

So, how is the material of interest to us for insulation plastered?

The answer depends on which side of the capital-type wall the insulation layer is placed on.

Warming inside

For finishing inside, you can safely use putties and gypsum plasters. in particular, from the assortment of the German company Knauf, which is widely represented on the domestic market, Rotband plaster mixture and Fugenfüller multifunctional putty are used. Both compositions are vapor permeable and have good adhesion to concrete, brick and other porous surfaces.

In the photo - plaster based on gypsum Rotband.

But is the adhesive parameters of foam plastic enough for good adhesion with them?

Where no mechanical loads are planned, plastering directly on the insulation is allowed. But with wall decoration at the level of human growth, balcony railings, etc. it is better to play it safe: in such cases, the penoplex is pre-primed with adhesive primers with the addition of sand (Betokontakt from Tikkurila, Ceresit CT 19).

They will give the weakly absorbent plane the roughness we need for our purposes.

What is used as reinforcement? Basically, a mesh based on fiberglass with a mesh of 5x5 millimeters and a density of 140 g/m2. The cost of sq.m. similar material will be 15-20 rubles.

Warming from the outside

Gypsum perfectly performs its duties in the dry air of the living room, but high humidity and even more so rain are contraindicated for it. For external insulation cement-based compositions are used.

Note: ordinary plasters on cement base it is strongly not recommended to apply on penoplex. In this option, special adhesives for expanded polystyrene are used (for example, in the choice of Ceresit, this is a plaster-adhesive mixture CT 85). The use of cement tile adhesive is permitted.

Glue for expanded polystyrene from the Ceresit company.

Priming with adhesive primers in this option is quite possible, but is not considered simply mandatory: the cement milk enters the insulation material deep enough to guarantee a strong adhesion.

How is plaster reinforced? Fiberglass mesh, but not the first one that came across, but alkali-resistant. The instruction is due to the fact that cement is a pronounced alkaline environment: a simple mesh will simply dissolve in it.

Also: the plastered surface both in the middle of the room and on the outside is primed for painting or facing with any other option with acrylic primer.

Technology

So, how to plaster penoplex with your own hands?

1. Joints between heat insulator panels are filled with foam. The squeezed out remnants of the foam are cut off after it hardens. To close joints with plaster means to make cold bridges; it is also undesirable to leave voids: in suitable places, the plaster will be very easily squeezed through, and it is also necessary to remember about heat transfer due to convection.

Joints between panels are filled with mounting foam.

1. When facing with gypsum, the foam is finished with adhesive primer. Work continues after it is completely dry.
2. The mixture - gypsum or cement - is diluted according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

It is necessary to pay attention: it does not depend on the composition of the plaster, the dry mixture is poured into the water of the required volume, and not the water is poured into the mixture. In another option, it will be quite difficult to get rid of undissolved lumps at the bottom.

1. We cut off a strip of fiberglass mesh about a meter long. It is quite difficult to stick a larger area at a time: the glue dries very quickly.
2. We apply a medium plaster mixture (width 30-35 cm) with a spatula to a heat insulator area approximately 90x90 cm in size. Thickness - about 3 mm. We intentionally leave the edges of the fiberglass mesh unglued: the strips should overlap.
3. We press the mesh into the glue and level it from the center to the edges. We repeat with the next section.

The mesh must be completely pressed into the adhesive layer.

1. When the entire wall is glued, and the glue is completely dry, rough sanding of inevitable flaws is best. The work is done manually, plastic or wood grater with mesh for sanding.
2. We apply a covering layer of 3 mm, which is completely hidden by the reinforcement. After drying, the cons are again overwritten.
3. Prime the surface for a clean finish.

For the finished cladding, vapor-permeable water-based paints, tapestries (of course, in the middle of the room) or textured plaster for decorative work are used.

Textured plaster will equip the plastered surface.

Conclusion

As you can see, the technology of work does not require any special skills and extensive experience in construction work. More personally about how to plaster penoplex, tell the video in this article. Good luck!

tooran.com.ua

Plastering technology

The technology of foam plastering consists of several stages. What are these stages, let's look at below.

Mixture preparation

For foam plaster, many experts recommend using a special mixture. Its consumption for gluing the mesh and leveling the walls will be 4 kg per 1 sq. meter and 6 kg per 1 sq. meter, respectively. In order to knead the mixture, it is recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions, which are indicated on the package. Please note that some manufacturers may vary slightly.

Applying the first layer of plaster

First of all, a mesh should be fixed to the foam, in order to better adhere the plaster to the foam. The mesh must be used for outdoor facade work with a density of at least 140 g per 1 m². First of all, the grid must be applied to the corners, if you do not have corners specially designed for this purpose. To apply it, cut a strip of mesh at least 30 cm wide and about 1 m long. The cut strip must be folded exactly in the middle to make a rib. In the next step, apply plaster with a layer thickness of 2 mm. After applying the plaster, press the mesh with a spatula and smooth it from top to bottom.

After you stick the corners, grids, you need to repeat the procedure with the rest of the wall. Apply the plaster on the wall, put a grid on top of it and smooth it with a spatula from top to bottom. Make sure that the mesh is well pressed into the plaster mixture. If necessary, apply an additional layer of plaster over the mesh. The joints between the mesh strips must be well glued together, for this reason it is recommended to overlap them.

Applying a leveling layer of plaster

After the plaster has dried, it should be grouted with an emery cloth or a plastic float. After the grouting procedure, the entire surface of the wall must be leveled. To do this, a leveling mixture is laid out on a long one and applied to the surface with a thickness of not more than 3 mm.

After you have applied the leveling mixture, it must be rubbed in the same way that was used when grouting the plaster mesh. But it is recommended to perform the grouting procedure no earlier than 24 hours after applying the second layer of plaster. When grouting, try to achieve the most even surface, since it is on it that decorative plaster will subsequently be laid.

It is important that before you start applying decorative plaster, the wall must be carefully primed. It is recommended to do this with a short pile roller, as it does not leave streaks on the surface of the wall.

fine finish

On the last step fine finishing of penoplex with decorative plaster is carried out. To do this, using a spatula, decorative plaster is applied in an even layer on a small area. And only after that, with the help of a sponge or a grater, a decorative texture is formed. Depending on the temperature and humidity of the air, the drying time of the plaster may vary. It usually exceeds 72 hours.

It is also worth noting that the drying time depends on the type of plaster used and it is noted in the instructions on the package. After the plaster has dried, it can be covered with a protective varnish or various facade paints.

Now let's look at a few tips that will help you avoid possible troubles:

1. If you are plastering penoplex near the doorway, it is recommended to bring the solution a little “flush”.
2. If after plastering the wall you have a little solution left, you do not need to smear it on the dried wall, as over time the new layer may move away from the old one. This is due to the temperature and thickness of the plaster layer.
3. The optimum temperature for applying plaster ranges from +10 to +20. degrees Celsius.

strourem.ru

Sable fur coat for home: characteristics of penoplex and its advantages

Penoplex is a heater manufactured in a special extrusion plant that appeared in America more than 50 years ago. The material is produced in plates of different thicknesses, outwardly resembling foam. It is perfect for the insulation of buildings, both outside and inside, as it has a number of advantages. He demonstrates excellent specifications, such as:

• Durability;
• wear resistance;
• environmental friendliness;
• security;
• density;
• compressive strength;
• moisture resistance;
• frost resistance;
• resistance to decay;
• biological passivity;
• ease of installation (here is the article);
• soundproofing;
• low thermal conductivity;
• resistance to the harmful effects of chemical factors;
• the possibility of plastering, staining, pasting;
• unattractiveness for rodents (they do not tolerate this material, although there are exceptions).

Penoplex is ideal for wall insulation from the street and indoors, foundations, floors, ceilings, roofs. For such a luxurious fur coat, your home will say: “Thank you”!

Plastering to be or not to be?

Plastering is a type of finishing work involving the application of a mortar consisting of binders - cement, lime, sand, gypsum mixtures, to create a flat and smooth surface.

Yes, it's all clear. But why do you need foam plaster? It's simple, the outer layer:

• Protects the insulation from the destructive effects of mechanical, thermal, chemical and climatic factors;
• guarantees fire safety;
• improves heat-insulating and sound-proofing properties;
• smoothes surface imperfections;
• gives the room a beautiful look.

So is it possible to plaster penoplex? Naturally. Even necessary.

Plastering mixes: types and benefits

Decorative plaster is used for facing foam plastic. She happens:

• acrylic;
• mineral;
• silicone;
• silicate.

acrylic blend

Acrylic plaster is an artificial polymer raw material, it contains a mineral filler, coloring pigments, various additives, acrylic mixtures. The composition is distinguished by the richest color gamut, the widest choice of textures, a reasonable price and excellent technical characteristics - it is elastic, durable, vapor-permeable, moisture resistant, etc.

Mineral composition

Facade mineral plaster is a sales leader. The mixture consists of crushed granite or marble, Portland cement, lime. The components give the plaster excellent technical characteristics. However, the color palette cannot boast of an abundance of shades. Well, it's inexpensive.

silicone compound

Silicone-based plaster is ideal for both facades and interior walls. It is durable, safe, biologically inert, strong and odorless. In addition, it is indispensable when working with the cellular structure of foam. It is also represented by a wide range of colors and a huge variety of textures. But its price bites.

silicate composition

Plaster based on liquid glass is not afraid of fungi, microbes, snow, rain, frost, heat, dirt. It does not succumb to the vagaries of climatic, chemical, thermal, mechanical factors. However, the color palette is scarce, but the price is acceptable.

Each composition is good in its own way. Do not forget that properly plastered walls, insulated with foam plastic, will delight the eye for many years!

postroibanu.ru

General information

Penoplex is a good heat and sound insulating material. True, contrary to the claims of many sellers, its thermal insulation qualities do not exceed the characteristics of foam. Of course, there is a difference, however, it is within the margin of error.

The advantage of penoplex is that it is stronger. However, at the same time, its surface is smoother, which requires a special approach to plastering. In particular, the use of a reinforcing mesh, an adhesive primer of the "concrete contact" type, and a special adhesive composition as a plaster is required.

You can often hear from home craftsmen that they successfully plastered foam plastic with ordinary plaster and without a grid. However, most often this work has to be redone. Even if the composition seizes on such a surface, it will very quickly begin to crack and peel off, so it’s not worth the risk.

Plastering technology

The process of plastering penoplex includes the following steps:

• surface preparation;
• reinforcement;
• applying decorative plaster and painting.

Let's take a look at all these steps below.

Training

So, before plastering penoplex, you must perform the following steps:

1. First of all, it is necessary to fill the gaps between the insulation plates, which may appear during its installation. To do this, you can use mounting foam or special foam for insulation systems, for example, Ceresit CT-84. The cost of a spray can (850 ml) is ~ 600 rubles;
2. then you need to make sure that the surface pasted over with foam is flat. To do this, you can use the long rule and the building level. All protruding areas should be rubbed with a special grater.

At this stage, it is often necessary to deepen some of the umbrella dowel caps below the surface of the insulation. If you can’t hammer them, you need to cut off the hat with a clerical knife and drive in another dowel next to it, having previously drilled a hole under it;

1. at the end of the work, the surface of the insulation must be primed with the composition "Betonkontakt", for example, from manufacturers such as Ceresit, VIOLUX, Feidal or others. On average, the price of a primer is 700-1000 rubles per 15 liters.

Before application, the composition must be shaken and poured into a flat container. Then it is necessary to moisten the paint roller in the liquid, wring it out slightly and apply the primer on the surface in an even layer, avoiding streaks and accumulation of liquids in certain areas;

1. after the surface has dried, the primer is applied again.

Advice! If there are sufficiently wide gaps between the foam sheets, they can be filled with fragments of insulation.

This completes the process of preparing the foam for plastering.

Reinforcement

The next step is reinforcement, which is performed in this order:

1. before plastering the foam, you should cover the dowel caps and other recesses in the heat insulator;
2. then you need to stick aluminum perforated corners on the outer corners. The glue used is the same as for gluing the mesh - Ceresit ST 83, Glims KF, KREISEL 210 or others. The cost of the compositions is on average 350-600 rubles per bag of 25 kg;
3. then it is necessary to cut the fiberglass reinforcing mesh, taking into account the fact that the canvases are glued overlapping each other by about 10 cm, and also with a twist at corners of about 10 cm;

1. then an adhesive composition with a thickness of about 3 mm is applied to the surface. It should be slightly thinner in consistency than the manufacturer recommends. A fiberglass mesh is immediately glued to the treated area using a wide spatula or bevel.

It is more convenient to work from top to bottom. At the same time, a small section of the wall needs to be treated with glue so that it does not have time to grab before gluing the mesh;

1. after gluing the mesh, another layer of glue is applied to the surface, which is leveled with a wide spatula. In fact, it performs the function of rough plaster.

Advice! If the fiberglass mesh is stiff enough that it cannot be neatly folded at the corners, then liquid glue should be applied to the folded area, as a result of which the fabric will become more elastic.

Finishing

As a rule, wall insulation is carried out from the outside, so the instructions for finishing the penoplex look like this:

1. first of all, two layers of primer are applied to the surface again;
2. then, using a wide spatula or malka, after the soil has dried, decorative plaster is applied;
3. when the plaster begins to set, it is rubbed with a small one;
4. after the decorative plaster has dried, most often the surface is covered with water-dispersion facade paint.

This completes the process of plastering foam plastic with your own hands. I must say that sometimes insulation is performed indoors. In this case, after reinforcement, ordinary putty is applied to the surface, and then decorative trim, for example, wallpaper is pasted or walls are being painted.

Conclusion

As we found out, the process of filling foam plastic is quite simple. The main thing is to have some skills in working with tools such as a spatula or malka, and also follow the sequence described above.

The video in this article contains additional information on the topic of foam plastering. If after reading the material you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments, and we will be happy to answer them.

www.nashaotdelka.ru

Do I need to plaster

The structure of the foam plastic makes it a rather rigid material, but it is not enough to withstand the installation of exterior trim. Under mechanical action, it is easy to wash it, which will reduce the insulation layer. With prolonged heating of the foam, which consists of polystyrene granules, the emission of harmful substances may begin. In this case, the plaster will provide an additional layer of foam that will prevent this process. Continuous exposure to ultraviolet rays paired with changes in temperature and humidity can render the insulation unusable without it being properly finished. A layer of plaster will additionally protect the foam from the possibility of fire when exposed to a fire source from the outside.

How to plaster

Manufacturers who are engaged in the manufacture of adhesive compositions for gluing foam plastic also made sure that it was released special blend for plastering. Facade plaster for foam plastic can be purchased from the manufacturers Stolit, Ceresit and Ekomiks. On the packaging of each product, instructions are given on what proportions should be for plastering foam. It is necessary to follow these instructions in order for the mortar to gain the required strength. For mixing, it is better not to use improvised means, but to use a mixer, it will achieve high uniformity. For different tasks, the adhesive must have a different consistency. When installing the mesh, its density should be higher, and when leveling, lower.

Preparatory stage

The surface of the insulation is very smooth, so before plastering foam, you need to do some preparatory work. The first step is to carefully examine the seams of the penoplex. During installation, it had to be filled with adhesive. If this has not been done, then it is necessary to walk and seal them with foam. An excellent option would be Ceresit CT-84, but regular polyurethane will do. This is an important step, if it is not followed, then the finish may crack over time due to the presence of voids. The next step is to monitor the evenness of the plane. The wall should not have drops and protrusions. To verify this, you need a rule with a length of 3 meters. It must be rearranged to different points, observing the differences.

If there is a protruding fungus, then it is necessary to try to drown it by tapping. If it is impossible, you will need to cut off his hat and hammer another next to it. If there is a convex part of the insulation itself, it is necessary to clean it with a grater. To increase the adhesion of the adhesive to the insulation, you need to make it a little rough. To do this, you can use various improvised means. Simply put, it needs to be scratched. Before plastering the penoplex, a primer is applied. It must be shaken well and poured into a convenient container where the roller can fit. The application layer should be such that there are no drips. After the first layer dries, another one is applied.

Mesh installation

An important component that can give the required rigidity to the insulation is a special mesh. Therefore, it must be fixed before plastering foam. It is necessary to purchase one that has sufficient resistance to the effects of various building materials. The cells in it should be as small as possible, since such a grid has a high resistance to mechanical stress. In addition to the foam mesh, you will need metal corners that are mounted on outside corners. First of all, glue is applied to the caps of the foam mounts, they should not interfere with the process.

For adhesive application, you will need a wide trowel and a notched trowel. Using a conventional spatula, the surface is covered with an adhesive composition. Its layer should be no more than 3 mm. Penoplex must be completely covered without gaps. After that, it is necessary to walk along the plane with a notched trowel. It will remove excess glue. The mesh is cut depending on the length and height of the surface to be plastered. It is applied to the glue and pressed into it a little with a conventional spatula. To do this, the spatula simply needs to be carried out from above. The solution that was applied to the penoplex through the cells will be pressed through and form a homogeneous mass, covering the mesh from above.

Individual mesh strips are laid without gaps. Between them there should be an overlap of at least 10 cm. It will be more convenient to work if no more than one meter of the composition is applied at a time in width. Metal corners for puttying will simplify the process of processing corners. If their use is not planned, then you will need to cut off a strip of mesh with a width of 30 cm. It bends exactly in the middle to form a rosary angle. After that, it is applied and recessed into the composition. After covering the entire surface, you must wait for it to dry completely. A video of gluing the mesh can be viewed below.

After drying, the surface is grouted. To do this, you will need special half-wires, on which sandpaper can be fixed. In a circular motion, which will be directed counterclockwise, it is necessary to process the entire wall. For personal safety, it is better to use goggles, gloves, and a respirator that will prevent dust from entering the respiratory tract. The next step in the external plastering of foam plastic is the application of a leveling layer. For this, the same composition is used on which the mesh was glued. The layer is also no more than 3 millimeters, and you need to work with a straight spatula.

Final stage

After a day after applying the leveling layer, it is necessary to repeat the grouting procedure. You should not wait too long for this process, because the composition will be quite solid and the task will become more complicated. At the same time, you should be careful that notches form on the plaster for foam plastic during the grouting process. After grouting the plaster, which is applied to the facade along the foam, it is necessary to prepare the surface for further finishing. To do this, the plaster is covered with a primer. His choice will depend on how the foam will be finished further. If desired, cover the surface with water-based paint for exterior finish you will need a primer that will bind all the grains of sand, forming a perfectly flat surface.

If the plans include the presence of bark beetle or another type of finish, then the primer composition should contain quartz additives. They will contribute to the perfect fixation of the finish. It is necessary to apply a primer on the plastered foam insulation so that there are no drips. With proper surface preparation, there will be no difficulties with the finishing of foam plastic. The composition is mixed with water in the required proportions. After that, it is applied with a spatula to the wall. Its layer will depend on the size of the constituent grains. Grouting or finishing is done with various tools. The bark beetle pattern, for example, is given by the direction of movement of the trowel.

The final layer after drying can be covered with paint or a protective layer that will prevent it from cracking. Interior decoration produced according to the same algorithm, but the finishing layer can be, for example, tile. It must be glued with special glue. It is advisable to choose the same manufacturer as the glue that was applied to the foam. Or be sure that the different compositions will interact well with each other. You can watch the finishing video below.

bouw.ru

Mixtures for the facade, and glue for polystyrene foam (aka foam) - https://goo.gl/rmTVxf
How to plaster penoplex!
New about expanded polystyrene, it is especially important to read the pinned comment in the discussion ... A few issues ago, we told in great detail how to install foam sheets (extruded polystyrene foam) on the walls inside our Brezhnevka. Now we are in a hurry to your computers with video No. 91 with a sonorous name - “How to plaster penoplex”!
I want to draw your attention right away, friends, that the title in the case of this new video is more of a slightly conventional meaning. After all, it will be more like smearing a reinforcing fiberglass mesh (aka Strobi) onto a foam plastic (modified foam plastic), and then puttying it with special glue for foam plastic and advanced polystyrene foam. But the name "How to plaster penoplex" personally seems to me better reflects the essence of what will happen on the blue screen. So it's right!
The gist of the video is simple:
- inside or outside the premises-house you want to plaster penoplex - the technology is one.
- we will also show how to plaster polystyrene foam (extruded polystyrene) (with special glue and a wide spatula).
- also consider small tricks of such plaster.
Max and I know how to properly plaster the mysterious penoplex on the Strobe grid, and you just have to find out today!

Our entertainment and finishing channel-finding "PiK", has already shot the second video about foam plastic, the brother of foam plastic - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5wB…
We know how and how to fix the extrusion foam, now we will learn the basics of its plaster in the VK group - https://vk.com/guysstone
Kraftool facade spatulas for foam insulation outside the facade - https://goo.gl/mW8Ur9

But if you want to take an in-depth course on how to plaster penoplex, both outside the room and inside your house, then watch another video:
№10 How to prime the walls (including after the installation of penoplex) - https://youtu.be/EbtnCkju8TE
No. 59 How to plaster walls (the option with plaster on lighthouses is also suitable for foam plastic) - https://youtu.be/RpzQN3jwwrY
No. 87 How to fix the penoplex before plastering on the Strobi reinforcing mesh - https://youtu.be/YrD-SJ2kPJE

Okay YouTube! How to plaster penoplex is no longer a problem, and how to plaster it is not a question!

How to plaster polystyrene!
A few issues ago we told in great detail exactly how to carry out the installation Penoplex sheets (extruded polystyrene) on the inside walls of our brezhnevki. Now, however, we hasten to you in computers with video No. 91 with the sonorous name - "How to plaster penoplex"!
Just I want to draw your attention, my friends, that the name of the case with this new video is slightly more conventional meaning. After all, it is more likely to fix fiberglass mesh (aka STROBE) on penoplex (modified polystyrene), and then plastered it on a special adhesive for foam polystyrene and advanced.

www.youtube.com

How to plaster penoplex?

To begin with, let's figure out what mixtures are used for plastering foam. Most often, universal mixtures of such leading manufacturers as Ceresit, Ecomix, Stolit are purchased for this purpose. We prepare the mixture, strictly following the instructions, the only nuance that should be taken into account is the consistency. For gluing the plaster mesh, the consistency of the mixture should be slightly thinner than the manufacturer recommends.

For the leveling layer, the mixture is made so liquid that it practically flows off the spatula. Approximately 4 kg of the mixture per square meter is consumed for gluing the mesh. The leveling layer requires 6 kg of mixture per square meter.
When your solution is ready, you can go directly to the plastering process itself.

Stucco on foam, process

Wall plastering is a process that consists in starting the walls and leveling them with wet mixes. The process itself can be divided into several stages.

Stage one. Training.

At this stage of work, a thorough grouting of the penoplex should be carried out in order to avoid any bumps and depressions and bumps. Do not rush, because the success of the whole process will depend on how well you do your job.

Second phase. Bonding plaster mesh - reinforcement. This is a very important step, and if you skip it, then in the future the layer of plaster applied directly to the foam, without the use of a facade mesh, will be subject to various cracks and will be short-lived.
On the prepared surface of the foam, we apply a layer of adhesive mixture, no more than 2–3 ml thick, and glue the mesh on it.

Do not forget about some of the nuances that are very important when performing the work of this stage:
- press the mesh into the applied universal composition should be no more than half, while the entire surface of the grid should be completely immersed in the adhesive mixture. The mixture should be applied in stages. Usually this is done in strips no more than one meter wide (standard width of the facade mesh);
- the facade mesh should be glued only on a fresh composition, while it should be trampled down with a smooth spatula;
- the strips should be laid overlapping each other. The allowance must be made at least 10 cm. Particular attention should be paid to gluing the corners, from which it is advised to start work on reinforcement. In order to glue the corners correctly, take a strip 30 cm wide and about a meter long, bend it in half to form a clear ridge in the middle, and in this state, attach it to the corner and press it into the adhesive.

Fourth stage. After your reinforcing layer is completely dry, you need to take care of grouting over the entire surface of the facade mesh. To do this, you need to arm yourself with a plastic grater with an emery cloth.

It should be rubbed in a circular motion, without applying special efforts for this. The direction of movement is counterclockwise.

Fifth stage: apply a leveling layer. For this purpose, the same universal mixture is used as for reinforcement. The mixture is applied with a spatula, evenly distributing it over the entire surface. The thickness of the layer in this case should not exceed three millimeters.

Sixth stage. Finalization
This stage is the final in the process of plastering foam. It consists in grouting the entire surface. This should be done in the same way as grouting the reinforcing layer, and also only after the leveling layer has completely dried. Here it is important to remember the drying time of the mixture.
Grouting should begin at the end of one day. In the cold season, you can give additional time. It is also not worth delaying the process, since usually at the end of four days the mixture can harden so much that it will simply be impossible to grout.

After you completely wipe the surface of the walls, the plastering process will be completely completed and you can proceed to the next type of work - puttying.

Is it possible to putty penoplex?

Putty is the finishing of walls with the help of special putty mixtures. Most often, acrylic or powder putty is used for these works, designed for facade work.

What are finishing putties?

All putties of the Ceresit brand have proven themselves most well, but if you trust another manufacturer, you can also use putties from another company. Putty should be selected based on the surface on which it will be applied. For puttying walls, there are both powder mixtures and pasty ones. Mixtures in the form of a paste, in turn, are divided into acrylic, adhesive, silicone, latex, oil and combined. For penoplex, acrylic putty and powder have proven themselves well.

When choosing a putty mixture for facade work, first of all, you need to pay attention to the binders in it, and how these substances are of high quality. Depending on the quality of the binder, putty can be very resistant or, conversely, unstable to various weather conditions: cold, damp, heat, frost.
So, for example, if you later plan to paint the facade, then you can use a good quality Ceresit CT-225 putty, which is a good base for painting and has such qualities as frost resistance, impact resistance and moisture resistance. By choosing a high-quality putty, you can be sure that over time your finish will not crack or crumble.

Also, when choosing a putty for your facade, consult with the seller so that he can help you choose the one that is moisture resistant and is not afraid of temperature changes, otherwise you will simply waste money and time on outdoor work. It is important to remember that those putties that are intended for interior work are completely unsuitable for the facade, so you should not save money so that you do not have to redo the work.

The process of applying putty on the wall. Putty preparation

If you decide to use powder putty, then first you need to dilute it. To do this, draw water into a bucket (a little less than half) and carefully pour in the powder, stirring continuously with a mixer. The consistency should be approximately the same as mashed potatoes.
After the mixture reaches the desired consistency, it should be left for 5 minutes in a calm state, and then beat again and you can get to work. Acrylic plaster is applied to the wall immediately without prior preparation.

The process of applying putty on the wall

To apply putty, a very wide spatula should be used, on which the mixture is placed with a small, narrow spatula that fits freely in a bucket. When finishing, it is very important that each new section of the finish merges with the previous one, previously puttied. The joints should be almost imperceptible, so if you are not confident in your skills, then it is better to invite a specialist for this work, who will do everything quickly and efficiently.

Before applying putty, do not forget to treat the wall with a special primer, which will give additional waterproofing. The layer of applied putty should not exceed 5 ml, after it has completely dried, the entire surface should be grouted. Rub should be done in a circular motion counterclockwise, using an abrasive mesh. Do not forget that grouting should be done no earlier than 3-4 hours after applying the mixture. Having finished grouting, it is necessary to apply a primer again, this will help get rid of dust particles located on the surface of the walls and make the surface of the facade perfectly even.

Upon completion of the drying of the primer, the next process of work begins - painting.

Is it possible to paint penoplex? What to paint?

The finish of the insulation will be more durable and aesthetically beautiful if it is subjected to the staining process. But be careful: not all putties benefit from staining, so read the instructions on the packaging of the applied putty.
In the instructions, you should probably find all the answers to your questions: is it possible to use paint, and what composition should the paint have in order to ideally fit your putty. When choosing a paint, the chemical characteristics of the insulation itself should also be taken into account, since not all paint is suitable for foam plastic. Only if you choose the right paint, taking into account all the nuances, your facade will be durable and of high quality.

Paint selection

Some facade paints can destroy foam, so the choice should be made, guided primarily by the physical and chemical characteristics of the insulation and paint.

What colors should not be chosen?

Such paints are not suitable for penoplex, which contain the following substances: benzene, toluene, xylene, acetone, coal tar and polyester tar, gasoline, kerosene, drying oil.

When painting penoplex, in no case do not use solvents such as acetone, kerosene, gasoline, white spirit, all these substances practically corrode the insulation.

Paints intended for foam
1. Mineral paints. They include lime and cement, which are absolutely safe for insulation, and therefore they can and should be used. Mineral paints do not contain any of the harmful substances, so that the finish of the facade of the building will not suffer at all.
2. Facade material containing silicate glass at its core. The composition of this material also does not pose any threat to the finishing of the building and, of course, to the insulation.
3. Water-based paint for exterior work. Paints of this category are also not prohibited for penoplex, the only thing to remember when choosing a water-based paint is that it should be designed specifically for facade work, only in this case it will be highly resistant to moisture and other weather influences.

Water-based paints have the following advantages:

- one of the most significant advantages is their environmental friendliness. They are completely safe for the human body, so no additional precautions are required when working with them;
- the surface covered with them has increased resistance to aggressive environmental factors;
- have a water-repellent effect;
— have resistance to pollution;
- low water absorption, this advantage is also a very significant factor when choosing paint for foam;
- a large assortment colors, which makes it possible to paint the facade of the house in any color and shade;
- low cost. Thanks to this advantage water-based paints become more in demand
- the ratio of price and quality is also a decisive factor when choosing a paint.

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Features of penoplex

Synthetic foam products from polystyrene have been made for a long time, for more than 70 years. Penoplex differs from traditional plates in production technology, in which extrusion is used. Blowing agents are initially added to the polymer, which ensures an even distribution of cavities throughout the mass. As a result, after extrusion, a structure with closed microscopic cells is formed, the size of which does not exceed 0.2 mm.

The main qualities of the plates are as follows:

• low density;
• light weight;
• well-defined ability to retain heat;
• minimal tendency to absorb moisture.

With all its advantages, the material requires increased attention due to its high flammability and poor vapor permeability. It is necessary to use penoplex correctly, taking into account the obligation to ensure good ventilation of the walls and the need for especially strict adherence to fire safety rules. To protect against external influences, plaster is applied to the foam.

Why plaster

Plastering is a necessary part of finishing work, allowing you to safely invest in thermal insulation without fear of its destruction in the future.

External plaster protects the facade from wind, precipitation, which can damage the material. The internal plaster layer on extruded polystyrene foam can serve as an additional decorative finish.

Penoplex is a durable polymer, however, with strong local mechanical loads, dents can form on it, due to which cracking on the sheets is not excluded. If the coating is plastered, its impact resistance will increase, an additional layer of protection of the synthetic board from the action of UV rays will appear.

The heat-insulating coating of foam sheets has joints, which are usually sealed with mounting foam. To form a perfectly flat surface, protect the seams from aging, plaster must be applied on top of the sheets and seams.

Necessary tools and materials

In order for the case to be argued easily and quickly, you need to think through everything in advance, collect the necessary materials, aids, and tools.

There are different brands of plaster mixes, primers that have a similar basic composition, which does not exclude the presence of small features in the nature of impurities. To finish the wall, the room as a whole, it is advisable to stock up on a sufficient amount of material from one manufacturer. This will eliminate the possibility of incompatibility of mixtures, they will be ideally combined with each other in work.

Advice! Prepare in advance devices for mixing the plaster mixture. There are many options: from the usual long wooden spatula or spatula to a drill with a special nozzle. Pick up good, comfortable spatulas with an ergonomic handle that allows you to easily move them around the plane.

To improve the adhesion of foam plastic with a paste-like mass of plaster, the surface is treated with a metal brush or a spiked roller. Roughness will improve adhesion, ensure reliable adhesion of the composition to the insulation.

Finishing the outer corners requires special perforated corners and levels to check the correct installation. Be sure to buy a reinforcing mesh, without which all work loses its meaning. In some places, you will need glue to fix it. Study the composition, recommendations for use in advance. To grout the surface, you need to purchase a plastic grater with sandpaper. The final finish is conveniently carried out with a roller with a small dense pile.

Types of mixtures

Stucco on foam plastic for the facade requires strength, it should not change under the influence of precipitation. There are compositions for universal and narrowly targeted purposes. When choosing, all possible types of coating loads should be taken into account.

Multifunctional tools

The universal composition can be used at several stages of finishing work. With such plaster, you can fix the penoplex to the wall, then fix the reinforcing mesh on the outside on the sheets. With a universal mixture, you can not only plaster, but also pre-prime surfaces. The tool costs a little more than the compositions of a strictly directed action. The higher price is offset by the possibility of multifunctional use.

Mineral Remedies

Popular with craftsmen is a cement mixture, which includes sand and a small amount of polymer filler, which improves the fixing of the material on the surface. Often such plaster is called mineral because of the predominant amount of inorganic components. The mixture must be prepared in accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturers, which often contain instructions on the need to add PVA glue to the mass. If the accompanying documents do not specify the introduction of additional components, there is no need to do this yourself. Some plasters contain gypsum and stabilizers. Such mixtures are very plastic, stick to foam more slowly.

If there is not enough money to purchase ready-made plaster, you can make the compositions yourself from two components:

• cement and lime;
• clay and lime;
• clay and cement;
• clay and plaster.

This is not the best solution, especially since the type of clay is fundamental to the quality of the plaster. With the right clay, quality cement and slaked lime, the mixture can turn out to be quite successful. Mineral compositions can be used to plaster the facade insulation from the outside and putty foam inside the room.

Acrylic

Mixtures based on acrylic polymers are intended primarily for finishing areas located in areas of high humidity, high mechanical loads. The cost of polymer plasters is more than mineral compositions, but the greater resistance to external influences justifies the difference in price. Acrylic plaster masses have great elasticity, which makes it easier to work with them.

silicate

A successful combination of properties is demonstrated by silicate plasters, which do not contain polymer additives, therefore, they are not electrified. Silicates pass steam well, do not collapse under the influence of atmospheric moisture, and do not undergo microbiological destruction. This is the most acceptable mixture that can be used to plaster both external and internal walls. It is enough to correctly process the surfaces once and you can not have problems for many years. Silicate material is environmentally friendly, does not contain harmful impurities, guarantees the cleanliness of the adjacent air space.

Notable Manufacturers

On the domestic market of plastering materials, products from different manufacturers are presented. The following three brands are most widely used:

• "Ceresite";
• "Ecomics";
• "Stolit".

There are imported products and mixtures of other domestic companies, the characteristics of which are always indicated in the attached instructions.

Ceresit products are presented in a large assortment, including all types of plaster: silicate, silicone, acrylic, cement. The products have good performance characteristics, are easy to use due to elasticity, and are durable.

Ekomiks plasters can be used for outdoor work or for interior walls. The compositions are characterized by environmental safety, resistance to moisture. Work on finishing facades using plaster of this company should be carried out in the warm season, at temperatures not less than +7 ° С. Mixtures can also be used to eliminate defects: chips, cracks, deformations on old surfaces covered with plaster for a long time.

The range of the company "Stolit" is represented by compositions based on cement, to which stabilizers and modifiers are added. Due to this, the plaster has high heat resistance, does not react to elevated and negative temperatures, and is well attached to the foam.

Solution preparation

Recommendations for the preparation of mixtures available for sale are contained on the packages and in the accompanying documents. When buying, you can get additional advice about the features of the funds, the specifics of their preparation.

When making your own plasters, you should remember the main points. The components taken in accordance with a specific recipe must be well sieved and mixed. It is advisable to check the stickiness of the mass before starting work. If the plaster adheres strongly to the trowel, it will be difficult to apply. In this case, the amount of filler should be increased. If the mixture does not stick at all, you need to increase the amount of astringent additives. By sampling, the average fat content of the mixture should be selected, because with excessive viscosity, the plaster layer may crack after drying. Insufficiently sticky mixture is not very convenient to use, forms a layer with little strength.

Reinforcing mesh installation

Before applying a layer of plaster, foam plastic must be strengthened with special nets. Polymeric cellular fabrics with a density of at least 140 g/m2 and not more than 160 g/m2 are best suited for reinforcement. The general rule is that the smaller the cells, the better the reinforcing properties. A high-quality mesh with suitable characteristics helps to level and strengthen the surface of the foam.

Note! If cement-based plaster is to be used, the mesh must be inert to an alkaline environment.

Reinforcement must start from the corners. To do this, cut strips from the grid, the width of which should not be more than 35 cm, and the length is determined by the length of the corner. The strip is folded in half along the length, the composition for fixing is applied to the penoplex and the mesh is pressed against it.

Similarly, the reinforcement of the entire wall is performed. First, a layer of fixing mixture (plaster) is laid, then the mesh is pressed against it, smoothed and made sure that it is fixed. The reinforcing fabric should be overlapped, because areas not covered with a polymer mesh will stand out noticeably against the general background. On top of the cellular coating, a thin layer of fixing mixture is applied, which ensures its snug fit, strong fixation.

Grouting and leveling

High-quality wall decoration cannot be carried out hastily. The reinforcing layer must be completely dry before starting the next stage of work. Knocking may be needed for final drying in winter, in summer it is enough from 4 to 6 hours. When the coating is completely dry, before it can be plastered, it is necessary to carry out a thorough grouting of the surface.

This physically demanding job is done with an emery-coated plastic float. The grout is carried out in a circular motion over the entire area until the surface becomes evenly rough.

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How to plaster Penoplex? List of tricks and actions

High-quality and fast installation of systems:

After performing insulation work, the question often arises of how to plaster Penoplex. For those who are not in the know: this is the name of the material, which is extruded polystyrene foam and differs from the usual polystyrene almost only in increased rigidity. The remaining characteristics of the material are almost the same: it does not rot, does not absorb water, has low thermal conductivity and is used mainly for external thermal insulation. However, from a technological point of view internal insulation generally illiterate and permissible only in the most extreme cases, which does not prevent people from often warming themselves from the inside.

By the way, the assurances of advertisers and sellers that the use of "Penoplex" is more effective than foam plastic are somewhat dishonest: their thermal insulation characteristics are almost the same, the difference can be safely attributed to the area of ​​​​permissible errors. The material only benefits from less brittleness.

How to plaster "Penoplex" and what to use at the same time, depends, first of all, on the location of the heat insulator: from the outside or from the inside.

Why plaster over insulation?

The need for the process is explained by the similarity of the characteristics of "Penoplex" and foam.

• Despite the higher rigidity, it remains insufficient. Without strengthening the surface, an accidental dent will give a whole web of cracks that will provoke peeling of the insulation and weakening its thermal insulation properties.
• Polystyrene when heated (even without burning) begins to release styrene - volatile and poisonous. The plaster protects the "Penoplex" from overheating and the accompanying decomposition.
• The material is not very resistant to weather influences, like its analogue - polystyrene. Changes in temperature and humidity, coupled with exposure to ultraviolet radiation, can disable it in one season.
• The seams between the sheets of insulation may well become cold bridges, and only solid plaster can eliminate this possibility.
• As for flammability: polystyrene foam itself ignites with ease. However, during the production of Penoplex, flame retardants are added to it, as a result of which the material becomes self-extinguishing. However, flame retardants do not protect against the release of toxins.

What will be needed?

In any case, both for external and internal insulation, during plastering, a reinforcing paint mesh will be required. For external work, a variety resistant to alkalis is purchased; when carrying out internal work, this is not a prerequisite.

From the inside, "Penoplex" can be safely plastered with gypsum compounds. Most often, for these purposes, mixtures produced by Knauf are used - Rotband plaster or Fugenfueller universal putty. The adhesive qualities of these compounds are usually sufficient for reliable adhesion to the surface. However, at the height of human growth, it is better to prime the walls with Betonokontakt from Tikkurila or Ceresit CT 19: increased mechanical loads are likely here.

Gypsum is not used outside - it is hygroscopic and not waterproof. However, the usual cement mortars You can’t work on Penoplex: cement corrodes the material. You will have to buy a special glue for polystyrene foam or cement-based tile.

In this case, a primer is not necessary: ​​the compounds penetrate into the slabs to a sufficient depth and provide a high degree of adhesion.

After graduation plastering works re-priming is carried out for the final, finishing finish.

Stucco technology according to "Penoplex"

• The seams between the individual plates are blown with mounting foam. It is not necessary to seal them with plaster mixtures: they will become the cold bridges already mentioned. Leaving it unsealed is also not worth it: heat loss will be provided by convection, and voids can be squeezed under external influence.
• After hardening, excess foam (bubbles) is cut off with a knife flush with the surface, and all of it is rubbed to smooth out scuffs and bulges.
• The plaster mixture is diluted. Do not forget: the powder is added to the water, and not vice versa, otherwise the plaster will turn out to be heterogeneous.
• Approximately a meter wide wall is covered with a composition 2-3 mm thick. The height of the treated area should be such that you can easily glue a piece of mesh at a time: it is mounted only in a fresh composition.
• The mesh is cut off along the height of the smeared surface, applied to the wall and pressed so that it is completely immersed in the plaster. Smoothing is carried out from the center to the edges.
• The next piece of mesh is overlapped; the entry of one half to the other should be at least 10 cm.
• After reinforcing the entire wall, a break is taken to allow the adhesive layer to dry. In summer, 2-3 hours are enough, in cold weather or when high humidity better to wait a day.
• The dried reinforcement is rubbed with a grater made of wood or plastic with a grinding mesh, in circular motions, without excessive zeal and with equal pressure.
• After processing the entire surface, the final plastering is carried out. Its layer is the same 2-3 mm. You can use the same composition with which the paint grid was glued, you can apply a special finishing plaster.

After the final drying of this layer, the wall is rubbed again to maximum smoothness, cleaned of dust with a soft brush, vacuum cleaner or dry sponge and primed under the selected finish coat. At this stage, special care must be taken: some paints can destroy Penoplex by penetrating through the plaster, especially if it is applied with an insufficiently thick layer or has a gypsum base. Paints containing drying oil, benzene, xylene, toluene, acetone, polyester and coal tar, kerosene or gasoline are categorically not suitable.

When painting, it is also impossible to use the most common solvents, such as the same gasoline with kerosene or white spirit. Facade water-based emulsions, silicates and mineral paints based on cement and lime are suitable for painting plastered insulation. In principle, between how to plaster "Penoplex" and plastering any other surface, the difference is not too great. It is important to choose the right compositions for work and without fail to carry out reinforcement. The insulation protected by a plaster layer will last at least 10 years, and with timely renewal of the top coating and restoration of damaged plaster, it will last all 20.

Penoplex is a popular material used for thermal insulation. Its main advantages are high strength, density and water absorption. Used for thermal insulation of walls and floors country houses. The plastering process has its own characteristics, knowing that all work will be carried out efficiently and quickly.

Required fixtures and materials

To plaster thermal insulation material, would need:

• putty;
• mixture for plastering;
• putty knife;
• grater;
• scissors;
• reinforcing mesh;
• capacity;
• gloves;
• roller;
• sponge.

Surface priming

Compared to classic plastering, the thickness of the soil when finishing foam is 2-3 mm. Its main purpose is to mask the results of reinforcement on the surface and prepare the surface for the final cladding.

It is necessary to apply a primer to the penoplex after the first layer has set and a rough cleaning of the wall with sandpaper has been completed. And although stripping is not a mandatory procedure, it helps to reduce the amount of adhesive required for surface treatment. At temperature regime 20 degrees and medium humidity, the leveling primer layer is distributed after 6-12 hours. The curing speed depends on the absorption of the material by the walls. It is necessary to apply a primer of a thicker consistency than when attaching a reinforcing layer

Solution preparation

It is best to apply ready-made store mixes to penoplex. For wall cladding, the consumption will be 6 kg per 1 m2 and 4 kg for fixing the mesh. When mixing the solution, you should strictly follow the instructions on the package.

For gluing a plaster mesh, it is necessary to use a mixture of a slightly thinner consistency than indicated by the manufacturer. To level the layer, the mixture is diluted so that it literally drains from the spatula.

Sticking plaster mesh

When plastering foam, an important step is the reinforcement of the plaster with a mounting mesh. Without this process, the dried layer will crack, and after a while it may completely fall off.

It is advisable to purchase a mesh designed for external work on the facade, which is made of plastic that is resistant to alkaline environments. Otherwise, the reinforcement will be adversely affected by the cement mixture. The mesh density should be in the range of 140-160 g/m2. This indicator affects the smoothness of the layer and the ease of application of the material, which is extremely important for inexperienced craftsmen.

Procedure

Processing corners and slopes. Special mounting brackets are suitable for corners. But you can use a piece of a regular mesh, after bending it so that the edge is clearly defined.

Mesh preparation for walls. Cut off pieces from the roll, the length of which will coincide with the height of the wall, and the width is 60-100 cm. In this case, you should focus on the convenience of work in order to quickly glue the strips until the mortar sets. Spread the glue using a spatula, the width of which matches the width of the mesh pieces.

Mesh sticker. Attach the grid to the leveled plaster. To do this, you need to attach a strip to the upper edge, fix it with hand pressure and smooth it with a spatula, starting from the center. In order for the leveling to go as high as possible, a trowel is used, performing wide circular movements.

Using a similar procedure, you need to glue the subsequent strips of mesh on the foam until the entire surface of the outer walls is processed. The edges of the pieces are recommended to overlap each other by 5-10 cm.

If, in the process of smoothing the mesh with a spatula, “gaps” appeared in the resulting layer, then it is necessary to add an adhesive mixture to these places.

It is only necessary to wait until the applied plaster dries (in case of strong heat, the drying time will be about 2 days). Then take a grater with an emery cloth, put on a respirator and goggles. With smooth movements in a circle, start processing the applied layer, moving counterclockwise. The grater should be lightly pressed against the surface of the foam.

When troweling still slightly damp plaster, the grater's emery cloth must be changed frequently.

Plaster surface

At the final stage, roughing is performed - applying the main layer for leveling.

Procedure

Using a narrow and small spatula, you need to put a cement mixture on a wide spatula and distribute it over the surface of the foam in the form of even vertical strips. In this case, it is necessary to place the joints of the leveling compound in the middle of the strips of the reinforcing mesh. Then the joints will not seem thick.

For high-quality smoothing of the layer, a rule and a trowel are suitable. The thickness of the plaster on the penoplex is 3-5 mm. To check the evenness use the building level.

The layer should dry out, it will take 1-4 days. At this time, you need to wipe the rough plaster with sandpaper, by analogy, which was used to process the reinforcing layer.

The longer the leveling layer dries, the higher the strength of the plaster will be. If it is dried out, it will take more effort and material to grout the wall.

At the end of all the work, the walls will have to be beautifully decorated. Paint can be used for this. It's simple and inexpensive option, but it will not give the plaster additional protective properties, while reducing the life of the thermal insulation and will not last long.

The simplest and most interesting outwardly are facade plasters: "fur coat" or "bark beetle". The peculiarity of these materials is that the composition contains large particles, due to which an unusual texture pattern is formed on the surface. The sale of such material is carried out in finished semi-liquid form in plastic container. Consumption will be 1-2 kg per 1 m2 with a layer thickness of 2-5 mm.

The final stage begins with the application and distribution of the mixture over the surface of the wall. Next, you need to form a relief. For these purposes, special graters are used, but experienced builders create the texture with such improvised materials as a sponge, a hard brush, or a crumpled plastic bag.

It is important to ensure that the pattern is the same over the entire surface of the wall. If any plastered area differs in color, then this can be masked with a layer of paint. But differences in the relief pattern will be noticeable even on a painted wall.

Conclusion

The foam plastering process is a simple process that even an inexperienced master can do with his own hands. The main thing in this matter is to fix the material with high quality so that the structure does not deform. At this stage, beginners will not be hindered by the help of a specialist, since he is the most basic, and the rest of the work is done alone. In addition, it is worth using materials of proper quality, in order to avoid problems in the process of plastering and extend the life of the structure.