Metal primer for models. Primer for models. Why prime the model before painting? Applying the base tone

Experienced modellers recommend priming the assembled product before painting it. Such processing allows timely detection of surface imperfections and improves its adhesion. In the online store Arma-models.ru you can purchase Various types primers for prefabricated models.

Purpose and varieties

The ability to detect irregularities, chips, cracks, traces of abrasive is far from the only advantage of the primer. It is widely used in modeling:

• for uniform paint application,
• base layer shading,
• reduce paint consumption.

Some types are able to tighten small chips and smooth out roughness, such as fillers for scale models. When processing homogeneous plastic elements, a primer is recommended, but not required. However, when assembling products with photo-etched or different types resin cannot be dispensed with. She attaches various materials the same adhesion, due to which the paint holds equally firmly on all parts.

Primers for modeling are available in several forms:

liquid - applied with a brush or airbrush, their degree of viscosity can be changed using a thinner;

putties - used for grouting and eliminating minor imperfections;

aerosols - the easiest to use, do not require special tools, have good hiding power and are able to quickly process a large area.

Primers for models come in gray and white.

Pros Arma-models.ru

In our online store there is a large selection of models from the best Russian and foreign manufacturers, accessories for them and assembly tools. We have several dozen types of primers and putties.

We provide a lifetime warranty on all products. If a defect is found, you can change the defective product at any time.

Our products are available in all regions of Russia and outside the country. You can order delivery by courier or by mail, as well as independently pick up the goods from the pickup point.

We work daily and offer favorable conditions for both wholesale and retail customers. You can pay for the order in cash or cash on delivery upon receipt or transfer money from bank card or electronic account.

Without pretending to be a serious opus, nevertheless I would like to make a short digression into painting.
Let's talk about grouting first.

Introduction. Concepts. Kinds.

Priming the model is not necessary, of course, but, believe me, it is very desirable. Soil for a miniature is like a foundation for a house. The better it is, the better the miniature will be painted as a result. Although, of course, for the game you can often skip this stage, or rather, combine it with the next one - the main color, putting the color you need right away.

So, primer by overlay type can be divided into:
1. primer brush;
2. primer spray, spray, airbrush.

Primer brush has one undeniable advantage: You probably already have a brush and black (white, red, green...) paint. Therefore, nothing prevents you from taking and primed the model with the desired color. But right there and significant disadvantage- paint with such a primer holds worse (which was checked by me when washing thermoses from paint with acetone - those on which the primer was laid by hand peeled off literally after 1-2 hours, and those on which there was primer with a balloon did not peel off finally even after a day, so they had to be manually scraped off with a toothbrush). Hidden here and second minus- any layer of paint applied by hand will almost always be thicker than a layer of spray paint, so you initially already deprive the model of a certain detail, which, of course, is not essential for most plastic miniatures, because they simply lack the detail that metal miniatures have.

Therefore, if you still have a choice of what type to prime the model, do not hesitate and choose the second. Since many of us are just getting started with miniature painting, I would recommend priming with High Wax Spray. My personal experience with other primers has shown that this best option for a beginner, while, for example, automotive primer requires already some skill in working with a primer.

By flowers soil can be roughly divided into 3 types:
1. white;
2. black;
3. any other color.

Everything is quite simple here. If the model should be more bright colors, more saturated (most often, "good" units/models, e.g. high elves) - choose white. The same primer should be chosen if you do not lighten the model, as is customary in the classical school, but darken it (which French artists are fond of and which I will talk about later). It is worth noting here that different colors lay down differently on white and black soil, i.e. have a different degree of "coverage" (coverage), as well as slightly different tones, and this can only be found out using personal experience.

A number of people find white primer more professional. I personally consider the dispute about whether this is true or not groundless, but I want to note, based on personal experience, that white ground is more demanding on the skills of the artist, while black is more forgiving, because if you, for example, somewhere that if they missed it, didn’t paint it over or didn’t notice, then most likely the black primer will hide it, while the white one, on the contrary, will reveal it.

If, say, you want to quickly paint an army for a game and you have a predominant color, for example, the Blood Angels Space Marine Chapter is red, then you can easily can combine priming step models with the overlay of the main color, by purchasing a balloon with a red primer and covering the entire army with one color, working only then on the superimposed primer / main color.

In most cases, black primer is chosen, since, as already mentioned, it is more forgiving of inaccuracies in painting and easier to get started with this hobby, so I would recommend it. Using the original ground color as black, you can quickly and effectively paint your first miniatures with using easy and quick to master the techniques of "dry brush" and "spill" (glazing).

Spray Primer Technique

So, the basic rules for working with a primer like "spray"

1.The first and most important rule of spraying is to use a respirator and goggles. Of course, you can easily primer without these precautions (we are real men, yeah) and, most likely, nothing bad will happen, but if you use the spray all the time, it threatens you with at least inflammation of the nasal mucosa and eyes, and most likely, you will just burn them to yourself, which is fraught with loss of money for medicines, and not for delicious novelties from GV (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

2. Prime if possible on fresh air or in a well ventilated area. Nevertheless, the temperature should be close to room temperature (not lower than +10), because otherwise the soil will lay down in uneven spots and with strange "artifacts".

3. The primed model should ideally stand for a day so that the soil is completely dry. Can be left overnight (only please don't prime before bed in the room where you sleep, trust my experience).

4. Most likely, with highly detailed miniatures it will be very difficult to get into the deepest depressions with a spray jet, so later you will have to go through these places with diluted paint of the color you are priming.

5. Shake the can for at least 1-2 minutes before priming to mix the inside of the paint properly.

6. You need to prime in short, 1-2 second jets, without lingering for a long time on one miniature (if you are priming the whole squad at once) or on one part of the miniature. In the event that one pass was not enough, wait 10-15 minutes for the first layer to dry and go through again.

7. The jet must be started from scratch, because at first it goes ... mmm .. let's say, a "poor-quality" mixture of pigment and solution. Those. start priming from scratch, gradually drawing over the models.

8. Do not be afraid, squeeze the cap to the end - if you are too "gentle" with the can, instead of the necessary solution, mainly the coloring pigment will come out, which will fall "flakes" on the miniatures.

9. Priming should be from a distance of 20-30 cm. Not closer, so as not to "fill" the miniature with paint, and no further, in order to again avoid flakes.

10. Remember that the composition of the spray is different from the composition of ordinary paint in a jar, therefore, if points 5 and 9 are not followed, you can easily "burn" a plastic miniature.

I hope that all these warnings will not scare you away from spray priming, because by mastering these simple rules, you will reduce the time of priming your miniatures by several times, while raising the quality of painting to a higher level.

Little trick: If a metal miniature is covered superficially, without getting into the recesses, first with a car primer (I recommend the so-called "Shining Beauty"), and then with a primer, then the edges of the miniature will not peel off. Do not try to prime plastic with automotive primer! The concentration of solvent in the machine primer is much higher than in the primer, and you can simply melt the plastic with a couple of "puffs".

We are back in touch - your guide to the world of scale modeling!

The workflow for creating a model is quite subjective, and has distinctive features from different people. There are superimposed differences in life and professional experience, understanding of the work of different tools, and even some ideological aspects. In addition, age has a rather active influence.

We get used to doing something, and this habit can be impossible to eradicate. Or rather difficult. Even if we know that there are more progressive methods of work. After all, manufacturers of scale models, accessories, tools and modeling chemicals do not stand still.

HABITS IS HABITS

For example, someone primes their models. Some people don't do it at all. Some do it purely for specific purposes. At the same time, supporters of each method are trying to prove to each other the absolute correctness of their approach.

We will not give ourselves to the dope of fanaticism in any of the issues we are considering. And first of all, we will try to understand the reasons for the need for priming the model. Why they do it, and what effects they achieve.

Understanding the reasons always makes it possible to correctly apply this or that method in life.

There are several main reasons for priming models today ...

WHY PRIME THE MODEL

REASON 1

The first reason for priming a prefabricated plastic model is identifying deficiencies preparing the model for subsequent staining.

After all, after you have sanded everything, puttied it, processed it a hundred times and already think that the model is ready for painting, it is better to play it safe and carry out procedures for identifying these very surface imperfections. The fact is that some modellers (especially beginners) think that paint will hide a poorly finished surface.

If somewhere there are chips, cracks, roughness and irregularities after processing with abrasives, they begin to intensively fill the whole thing with paint.

ATTENTION

You can't do that , simply because you mess up the model. The paint will not hide the flaws, on the contrary, it will show them even more.

In order for the model not to be damaged after painting, the surface must be very prepare well . Then identify the remaining shortcomings. And treat the surface again.

Tamiya Surface Primer

The oldest and most proven way to do this is to apply a primer. As soon as it lies on the surface, all the most invisible, and therefore the most dirty, defects will manifest themselves. And there is no need to wait until the primer dries. Just wipe off the primer, re-treat the surface. Then apply primer again.

This process can be repeated over and over again. Until the desired result is achieved.

This method is somewhat expensive, and you can come up with some other options for identifying flaws. After all, it makes no sense to spend a good model primer on a model that you just want to assemble. And whether surface defects are visible or not is not so important. But if you need very good surface finish will have to be primed !

REASON 2

The second reason for priming a model is to choose the type of paint for the model, according to the degree of adhesion to the surface.

The trick is how the paint dries on the surface….

Roughly speaking, how does she sticks to the surface «…

For example, all enamel paints partially dissolve the underlying layer (plastic, paint), eat into it. Because they are very resistant to mechanical damage, it is difficult to tear them off the surface without damaging it.

On the contrary, water-soluble acrylics (especially polymerizable ones) have very poor adhesion to the surface. Especially polymerized ones. Those that do not dry out, but harden over the entire surface with a crystalline layer. That is why they are perfect for brush work, but do not attach well to plastic.

Ammo Mig Jimenez 2003 DARK YELLOW PRIMER

For example, my favorite acrylic-latex (water) Akan. Or the famous Japanese Tamiya water-soluble acrylic. If you look closely, all the in-house modellers at Tamiya production, who are filmed in the Tamiya Custom videos, make sure to prime the models before using this type of paint.

Therefore, it is desirable (if not necessary) to prime the plastic surface before painting. The primer, due to the properties obtained on its surface, significantly increases the adhesion of the paint, increasing its adhesion. It is for this, for example, that they prime when painting a car.

REASON 3

A primer is required when working with complex models (combination different types plastic, photo-etched, resin). All these materials have different adhesive surface qualities. Because the paint will stand on them in different ways. To avoid trouble - you need to prime.

REASON 4

A primer will allow you, in some cases, to reduce the overall thickness of the paint layers on the model. The fact is that the primer is a thing completely opaque , and when applied to the surface will completely hide its color. She herself has neutral colors. Usually these are variations of gray. Sometimes white.

This is very good - if the plastic is black or green. Even better - when the model uses plastic of different colors. Or, as mentioned above, your model is complex - there is photo-etching, resin.

You just apply one good layer primers - and the surface acquires a uniform texture and color scheme. After that, you do not need to apply several layers of the base coat of paint to completely remove the effect of the background.

G mr runt Surfacer by Gunze Sungeo

The most common variant of the model primer is gray. He is completely neutral. And it will allow you to easily apply any shades to the ground. That is why now the manufacturers of scale models mainly use gray plastic too.

Well, if it is necessary (winter dirty - white camouflage) application of light, white tones on the model - you can use a pure white primer.

REASON 5

The primer makes it possible to shade the base color of the paint. This capability is based on the principles described in the previous paragraph. You specifically choose the color of the primer so that it can add depth and dimension to your model. Your task is to apply subsequent layers not completely transparent.

This is possible when working with an airbrush, by diluting the paint with a solvent. Or special liquids that increase the transparency of the paint. Such, for example, are in the range of materials for acrylic-latex AKAN.

REASON 6

The primer has another unique property. True, it is inherent only in some, single types of primer material. They can partially remove surface defects. Tighten chips and roughness, giving the surface a smooth working look.

FINDINGS

To prime or not to prime - everyone decides for himself. It all depends on the goals you are pursuing. Or just from your workers, objective or subjective , preferences. But the fact remains that even with a sufficiently high level of development of the quality of model chemistry in the primer there's a meaning .

I consider myself to be a modeler who uses a primer. But not in all, but only in some cases. 72nd scale aircraft often do not require a primer, although this depends on the type of paint. For example, if I work with AKAN acrylic urethane enamel or series 6 paints, there is no need for a primer.

But if you make a model of the 48th or 32nd scale, and even with acrylic-latex AKAN, then you definitely cannot do without a primer.

In order to decide whether you need a primer in the workflow or not, try applying it in all the cases described above. Not only at different stages of building a model to achieve different effects, but also at different scales. As my experience shows - large models (1/48) love padding.

That's all for today!

Good luck to you!

And great models!

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It's time to master the technique of painting prefabricated models. To begin with, we recommend taking a simple, inexpensive model with a low level of complexity, in which there are few small details. And for painting we will use acrylic paints as they are easy to use (diluted with water or alcohol, have almost no harmful odor). After assembling the model you have chosen, you must proceed to the next step.

Preparing for painting

In addition to the airbrush, we need:

• various brushes;
• acrylic paints (since they are convenient for example);
• several clean glass jars;
• syringe;
• pipette;
• napkins.

Before painting the surface of the model, it must be properly prepared. This is done to keep the paint stronger. The easiest way is to wash the model in soapy water and let it dry.

Priming scale models

Due to the fact that we chose acrylic paints for painting, we need to prime the model. For these purposes, Tamiya Surface Primer L (Grey) is perfect. In order to use it, you need to shake the can for 7-10 minutes, take it to the side of the model and spray at a distance of 20 centimeters, let it dry for 30 minutes.

Preparation before painting

Before applying the paint to the surface of the model, it must be diluted to the consistency of milk. There is also a pre-prepared paint for airbrushing. After the paint, you need to adjust the compressor. As a rule, experienced modelers recommend setting the pressure - 1.5-2.0 atmospheres. Pour the paint into the tank and close the lid. Do a few test sprays on paper. Make sure the paint is applied evenly, without streaks or splashes.

Scale model painting

Position the model so that it is convenient and accessible to you. Very good for this turntable. If not, then use the newspaper in several layers. Sometimes when painting it is convenient to hold the model in your hand. Yes, it is possible, but it is better to use a rubber glove for this. Firstly, you will not leave greasy stains from your fingers, and secondly, you will not paw with your fingers where you have already painted it and it is more convenient to keep it in a glove (does not slip).

After positioning the scale model, take a pre-set airbrush and apply a coat of paint evenly. The airbrush must be held perpendicular to the surface and constantly moving. First open the air valve, then gradually add paint little by little. If suddenly you need to temporarily stop painting, then turn off the paint supply - the air supply remains open. Subsequent layers of paint are applied only after the previous layer has completely dried.

Please note that this article does not describe various ways tinting model a, only the method of basic coloring in one tone is described.

End of painting

After you have finished painting the model, it is necessary to drain the remaining paint into a storage place and ALWAYS rinse the airbrush. Not washed airbrush - common cause its breakdown!

Safety

Acrylic paints, in comparison with other types, are the safest. But there is another fact - sometimes alcohol, ammonia and other solvents are present in the composition of paints. For this reason, it is recommended to paint the model in a well-ventilated area.

Attention! If you smell paint, it means you are breathing its vapors, take measures to protect yourself (change or ventilate the room, use a respirator, etc.).

And in conclusion, I would like to say that working with an airbrush requires constant work with it. The more often you do this, the better your models will be painted. You can also find more information on painting scale models both on our site () and others.

>> >> Painting scale models for beginners

Hello everybody.

I'm just starting modeling. I've wanted to for a long time, but never got around to it. A friend gave me a model of the brig "Purkua Pa?" ("Star"). Now I'm collecting.

Actually a question. Faced with the fact that acrylic paints (acquired the "Star"), not the first time lie flat on the ground. I read on the Internet about the soil. Everything seems to be clear, but the word "acrylic primer" confused me (here is a link to the article: http://www.wargames.ru/sections.php?op=viewarticle&artid=1754). Can someone explain if this is ON acrylic, or primer UNDER acrylic?

Do not judge strictly for a maybe stupid question. I didn't find an answer when I searched...

Thanks in advance.

Paints, varnishes, primers, pigments and more on the a-model website

Yes! Because by covering your work with low-quality paint, you risk ruining everything in the bud. Agree, it will be a pity for the time and effort spent on assembly, not to mention the fact that the paint will have to be washed off, and this is again time. scale models and accessories "A-model.RU" recommends that you thoroughly study the properties of paints and competently approach the question of what paints for models you should buy.

A few words about paints used by modellers

Any of pigment, binder and solvent. Some manufacturers use a variety of additives to improve certain paints. Basically, modelers use the following types of paints:

Acrylic. Among her positive qualities especially noted is the rapid drying, the possibility of dilution with vodka. Thinner for acrylic paints can serve even plain water. Acrylic paints are almost non-existent bad smell. To negative qualities"Acrylic" can be attributed to the fact that it does not "stick" to unprimed surfaces in the best way. Accordingly, for better adhesion, the model is first primed. Also, some acrylic paints can change their properties to a large extent in the process of drying on the surface painted by them. From our experience, from all "acrylic" we recommend you first of all Vallejo paints;

Enamel. Enamels dissolve with white spirit or turpentine. Enamel paints for modelers are glossy and matte. At correct selection and mixing, enamels are capable of very accurately conveying the authentic coloring of the technique. Of the advantages of enamel, it is worth pointing out their relatively slow drying, which makes working with them more convenient, especially when painting with an airbrush;

Tempera. Such paints are made using adhesive substances. Their use in modeling is not common. Sometimes miniatures are painted with temperas;

Oil. Oil paints similar in many respects to enamel. They can also be diluted with white spirit or oil. You can find them in art stores, not model stores. Oil paints are not used to completely paint the model. However, they are well suited for creating a variety of effects (aging equipment, rust, various weather influences, etc.).

What else does a modeller need to have in his arsenal besides paints?

When the model is assembled, sometimes it is necessary to hide inconsistencies in the seams, and here models come to the rescue. Painting models can take place in several stages with the imposition of more than one layer. acrylic painting, as we said above, often the model needs to be primed. Therefore, make sure that you have a primer for models on hand. At the final stage, modellers often use model varnish and pigments. Those substances from which paints are produced and are pigments for models. They are useful for giving the appearance of scuffs, rust, traces of soot, soot and dirt on the body or tracks of equipment.

You can also choose paints for models at reasonable prices in our online store!

For beginners in modeling, paints of the lower price category are quite suitable. Let's say it can be paints Modelist, or paints for models Zvezda. These are the most common domestic paints, the purchase of which will not be too expensive.

Mr Color paints are a little more expensive. With their relatively high price, imported products, such as Vallejo paints or Humbrol acrylic paints, may even be more profitable. In general, if you have already gained experience, feel that you are ready for some serious painting work, then we recommend that you pay attention to acrylic paints for models from higher price categories!

And our store A-model.RU is ready to give you the necessary recommendations and offer best options paints, pigments, primers and putties.

Forum of modellers

Hey

Yes, ground Little will help. Better from a can. If you adapt to it, you will be able to prime the model even with small details (junk on the fenders, etc.) without blurring.

I bought a white Tamiya, which is in a can. I tried priming with a brush. Can't apply straight. So, IMHO, it's better to buy a can right away. Even professional modellers who have an airbrush primer with a spray can.

I have not tried others under the brush. But I think the result would be the same.

By the way, I'm pretty good at applying Zezdovsky acrylic directly to the plastic. Not perfectly smooth, but normal for BTT. Since then tinting and weathering will hide most of the sins. Here:

I work like this:

With a good brush along the surface I apply the first layer of acrylic. I take the paint straight from the jar, without diluting it. It will lie poorly covering the surface and a little uneven.

As soon as this layer has dried up quite a bit (!) - I take a drop of paint from the jar, I liquidly dilute it with water on the palette. And with this composition I already cover the surface across (!). And with a brush I sort of level the first layer.

I'm waiting to dry. I repeat the process until the surface is painted evenly and evenly.

Important to remember:

The brush should be good (columns, for example). For large ones I use a flat one, for details and hard-to-reach places - a round one. The brush number depends on the scale. I do BTT 1:35, I have round #3, flat #4. Well, there are others.

Acrylic must be shaken very well before application so that there are no lumps.

If, when painting, there are still small lumps of pigment on the surface, or hair from the brush gets in, or a speck of dust, etc., you can carefully pick them up with a needle / brush.

Paints, primers, thinners, pigments for models modeller, star, tamiya. glue, solvents, brushes for models in st. petersburg

All radio-controlled models are capable of gaining fairly high speed. As a result of this, they, like real aircraft, and other equipment, can be damaged. Most and most often, paint and varnish are damaged, but cracks and chips often also occur on the material of the case itself.

Such damage is not critical for the model and does not affect its performance, however, it appearance will be corrupted. Today, a wide range of primers, paints, varnishes, adhesives, solvents and other technical fluids are used to eliminate emerging defects.

Purpose of liquids

Each technical fluid has its own purpose:

• Putty is used to level the surfaces of various external elements of radio-controlled models. This allows you to hide dents, chips, as well as bumps resulting from peeling paint.
• Primers are applied under a layer of paint or varnish and provide their best adhesion to the material of the model.
• With the help, you can easily and quickly attach the missing element, and the quality of the adhesives allows you to practically restore the initial strength to the product.
• Paints make it possible to restore the brightness and beauty of the model, and varnishes provide a unique shine.
• The function of solvents is to remove layers of paint, and with the help of a thinner, you can easily dilute other liquids, giving them the desired consistency.

Benefits of using technical fluids

The use of technical fluids allows you to independently cope with almost any damage to external elements, as well as quickly restore the integrity of the model. In doing so, you:

• You get significant financial savings. You do not have to go to a specialized workshop, which would cost much more than buying glue or paint.
• Spend much less time on repairs, because repairs can be carried out in just a couple of hours.

Primer: modelers forum: prefabricated scale models - scalemodels.ru

^ramjagerMember

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 1970 4:00 am Post subject: Primer Probably meant for spraying. But I prime myself, and for a long time, with an automobile intended for plastic, such a liquid. ^GalContributor

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 1970 4:00 am

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 1970 4:00 am Post subject: PrimerI use 650 thinner^MaxLove to chat

Age: 34

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 1970 4:00 am Post subject: Primer......how long does Tamiya primer take to dry???^Michael_XIIIroot

Age: 34

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 1970 4:00 am

Age: 37

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 1970 4:00 am Post subject: Primer

Age: 28

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:08 pm Post subject: Who hasn't used Humbrol soil?? In the catalog of paints, they have it under No. 1 ^ Basilisk I love to chat

Added: Tue Sep 05, 2006 12:17 pm Post subject: Primed with AG-10 primer, solvent 650, RDV, 646. An interesting property is observed - ordinary plastic (hard) eats mercilessly with a thick layer, with a similar one on plastic from Amodel (soft , low pressure casting technology) this is not observed, it almost does not eat at all, but the paint holds up well.

Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 7:53 am Post subject: We sell Revell primer. Bottle 25ml - 130 r. Worth taking?

Last edited by GoNzA on Tue Dec 05, 2006 6:10 am; edited 1 time in total^wie

Age: 33

Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 3:37 pm Post subject: I'm interfering in your topic, for which I apologize! What can you say about the AKAN primer? are there any specifics to use?

THANK YOU ^AlexanderForum frequenter

Age: 51

Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 9:39 pm Post subject: From what I have tried the best of the branded ones - Revell for airbrush - a bottle with an orange label, the primer is white, matte, the texture is thin and dries from strength to an hour, diluted with acetone, 647, 650 and better native solvent for airbrushing; Tamiya primer in aerosols - bleed into the airbrush or the one in the bottle, diluted with the same, but ideally, again, native Laquir Thinner from Tamiya; Well, Mr Surfacer 1000 and 1200 from Gunze can be considered ideal - you can dilute everything mentioned above, but the ideal solvent for them can be considered Gunze T101 Mr.Color Thinner or T106 Mr.Color Leveling Thinner - these are just super for Tamiya. The disadvantages of all this are clear - it all costs a lot and getting products from Gunze can be difficult. But given the small size of these materials and the highest quality - I want to recommend. By the way, many automotive primers do not "eat" polystyrene, but an experiment is needed here. Some of my colleagues were delighted with the white Testors primer - it dries for a long time, grabs tightly and semi-matte. Bourgeois have been squeaking from the Alclad II soils lately - but I honestly haven’t tried it yet and have only read about their quality. They put them not only under Alclad metallics, but also under regular acrylics and enamels.^sam-blakeContributor

Posted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:58 pm Post subject: Check out the discussion on the friendly forum:

http://clubtm.borda.ru/?1-7-0-00000003-000-10001-0^dimonMember

Age: 43

Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 4:31 am Post subject: Let me share an old "grandfather's" recipe. I've been using it for 20 years since I bought an airbrush. red) and acetone, we mix all this stuff in a ratio of 1: 4 (respectively), and leave it to settle for five days, or maybe for a week. and you need glyftal. Gently, without shaking, drain and go! Keeps any paint dead! Up to some acrylics.

By the way, it is not difficult to check the performance: a properly prepared soil should stick for about thirty minutes like an adhesive layer of adhesive tape. And it is advisable to blow it out within this period

Added after 4 minutes 8 seconds:

Yes, by the way, this primer allows you to apply silver powder directly on it, followed by polishing after drying.

Posted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 12:44 pm Post subject: Are GF-21 and GF-021 different primers? And then on the market you can find exactly GF-021. The smell (and everything else) is very reminiscent of PF paint.^AlexyContributor

Age: 33

Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 9:24 pm Post subject: Of course, I didn't look specifically, but this particular GF never came across to me

Where to look for it? In construction stuff?^dimonUser

Age: 43

Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 6:58 am Post subject: GF-21 just doesn't exist, there is exactly 021. (I wrote it wrong in a hurry, call me!) In any car shop there is a 100-gram container, the brand is not always indicated by the manufacturer, ask how red-brown is it, the good old minium! Regarding acetone: I don’t know how it is in other cities, but try to look for acetone from Vershina, today from this manufacturer it most corresponds to the guest, and so far it’s “leftist” haven't come across yet.^Sapien2Went in a couple of times

Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 6:49 pm Post subject: BODY primer Many people on this (and not only this) forum advise using BODY car primer.

Can you please tell me which primer should I use?

In my hometown I saw for sale only liter jars with numbers 992 and 969. I didn’t pay attention to aerosols, maybe it’s worth using them? ^