How to make a semi-arch of drywall with your own hands. How to make a drywall half-arch on your own? Gypsum semi-arches

16.03.2020

Starting a large-scale cosmetic or even overhaul with a complete change in the interior, the owners often want to bring to life many interior design ideas. One of them may be the transformation of an ordinary rectangular doorway into an arched one. If you figure out how to make a drywall arch, then it is quite possible to install it yourself.

The arch can affect the structure of the entire interior design solution, and an additional decorative overlay a certain style will set the design of the entire room.

Having studied detailed instructions for the installation of the arch, having prepared all the necessary materials and tools, it is quite possible to make an arch from a rectangular doorway in just one day.

It should be noted that an arch made using the same technology can transform not only a doorway, but also wider passages that divide large rooms into zones.

Materials and tools for the manufacture and installation of arches

In order to bring a bored doorway to a new state and get a neat aesthetic arch, you need to prepare the following materials:

Gypsum board GKL with a thickness of 9 ÷ 12 mm.

Metal galvanized profile or wooden beam for the manufacture of the frame.
Perforated metal corner for strengthening the joints of drywall planes. A fiberglass mesh is also quite suitable for this process.

Self-tapping screws for fastening drywall and perforated corners to metal profiles.
Gypsum-based putty - rough (starting) and finishing.

For installation, the following tools must be available:

Electric jigsaw and drill.
Ruler, construction square, tape measure and pencil.
Grinder or metal shears .
Screwdriver.
Construction knife.
Roller with metal spikes.
A flexible bar that will help create a smooth arch shape.
Spatula and grater for working with putty.
Sponge, water container, thick soft fabric(you can use an old terry towel).

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Taking measurements and preparing structural elements

Before starting the manufacture of arched elements, it is necessary to measure the opening, where the arch will be mounted. Its width and the desired vertical distance are measured, from top to bottom, on the side walls of the opening. These parameters will determine how rounded the arch will be.

In addition, it is necessary, starting from the thickness of the drywall, to determine the depth of its installation, since it must be fixed at the same level with the plane of the wall - it must be drowned deep into the doorway.

From the corners of the doorway, you need to retreat deep into the distance, which will be equal to the thickness of the drywall and make the appropriate markup by drawing the lines for installing frame profiles.
According to the obtained parameters of the size of the opening, with the help of a grinder or scissors for metal, segments of a metal profile are cut - two for fixing horizontally and four for fixing on the side walls of the doorway. They are installed along the previously marked lines, leaving room for drywall.

If the walls of the opening are made of brick or built of concrete, holes are drilled directly through the metal profile in the wall with a drill (perforator), where plastic dowels are hammered into which the fixing screws will be screwed.

On this structural element - the frame, drywall parts will be attached.

The next step is to mark and cut two drywall panels according to the previously obtained dimensions. They must fit exactly into the doorway between the walls.
Further, on these panels it is necessary to draw and then cut out two arched details from them. In this case, you need to act very precisely, since by making the wrong markup of the arc, you can easily get an ugly arch skewed to the side.
Curvilinear "trajectory" cutting, that is, the arcuate part of the arch itself can be marked different ways, and they are all equally accessible.

First way

The markup is done as follows:

- First, the panel is laid on a flat horizontal surface.

- Then, on the upper horizontal and on both vertical sides, the thickness of the metal profile, already fixed in the opening on the walls, is marked. Usually it is 50 mm. These points are used to draw straight lines parallel to the edges of the panel;

- To draw a semicircle, a pencil is taken and a piece of inelastic cord, which is tied to the pencil so that it rotates freely in this loop.

Homemade "compass" applies the necessary arc of the arch

A self-tapping screw is screwed in the center of the circle. Then a cord is attached to it, so that the sharpened pencil lead falls on the intersection point of the lines drawn earlier, parallel to the left and right edges with the bottom edge of the panel. It turns out a kind of compass, capable of drawing circles of the diameter required in this case.

The markup can be transferred to the second panel simply by copying from the first.

Second way

For the second method of marking the line of the arched arc, you will need a flexible plastic bar, a pencil and two pairs of hands.

- First you need to determine what height the curvilinear part of the arc will have at the highest point. To do this, the bar is applied to the door opening between the profiles fixed on it. One end of the bar must be attached to bottom edge of the profile, fixed on the left side wall of the opening, its highest point on the bend should touch the midpoint of the horizontally fixed profile, and the third touch point of the bar will be bottom edge of the profile on the right wall.

- At the last point of contact with the profile, a mark is made on the bar - it will determine the length of the very arc that will determine the curvilinear cut section.

- Further, the same is done on the drywall panel, where, just as in the first version, 50 mm are already marked along the edges. One of the masters holds the bar so as to align its beginning and the mark made with the lines, and the second one draws the border of the arched semicircle along it.

- Then, the marked area is cut with a jigsaw.

Third option

The third option is a template of an arched section made on hard cardboard according to the dimensions taken from the door. It can also be marked with a homemade "compass" made of cord and pencil.

— Ready template put on a drywall panel, outline its outline with a pencil, and then cut out the part to be removed with a jigsaw.

- The template will not allow you to make a mistake and the semicircle will be perfectly even.

The next step is preparing a metal profile for the curved parts of the frame, on which the lower part of the cut plasterboard panels will be fixed. To cut off the profile segment of the desired length, you can use the very flexible bar on which the mark of the length of the arc forming the arched vault is made.

You need to prepare two such segments of the profile. Then, cuts are made on them with metal scissors or a grinder, thanks to which it will be easy to bend the profile into an arc with the desired bending radius.

It should be especially noted that if the arch will have a small thickness, then sometimes one wide metal profile with made on German notches to secure German two panels on both sides. The profile must be recessed inside the arch to the thickness of the drywall used, since later the lower arch bar will be attached to this particular curvilinear part of the frame.

The rest of the elements will be in the course of the event. installation work- usually there are no special difficulties with them.

Installation of the frame base of the arch

Metal frame made of galvanized profile

Installation of the arch begins with the installation of drywall elements with cut out semicircles, which are fixed in doorway on metal profiles screwed into it.

To fix drywall use special screws and a screwdriver.

These elements are fixed on both sides of the doorway.

Further, a notched and bent metal profile is screwed from the inside of the cut out arched opening. When carrying out work, it is necessary to hold the profile with one hand, pressing it exactly in the shape of an arch.

This part is screwed first to one side, and then to the second.

The frame will not have the proper rigidity and completeness of the structure if it is not installed between the metal arched elements of perpendicular sections of the profile. They will connect the plasterboard walls of the arch to each other. These jumpers are installed in several places of the arched structure.

To fix the jumpers on the profile, self-tapping screws with wide caps and a sharper nose are used.

Installation of a wooden frame arch

If the manufacture of a frame from a metal profile seemed too complicated, then you can mount it from wood.

To do this, you need to prepare bars measuring 20 × 20 mm - to fix on drywall, and 30 × 30 mm - to fix on opening walls.
Further, an arch is marked on the drywall, cut out, and then screwed onto the inner surface of the element wooden bars with ends arranged in a semicircle.

A free space of 30 mm is left along the edges of the part, which will be occupied by bars installed in the doorway.
The walls of the doorway are marked in the same way as when attaching a metal profile, only instead of it bars 30 × 30 mm are fixed along the markings
Then, the prepared arched panel is applied to its “regular place” and screwed into the opening, to the wooden bars installed in it.

You can do it differently - fix the bars on the edges of the drywall, and then screw the finished stasis panel to the wall. But in this case, it will not be very convenient to work, especially when the second panel with the arch is fixed, since it will be difficult to climb between the two arched elements with a hand with a screwdriver.

Cable routing

Before proceeding to the manufacture and installation of the lower part of the arch, an electric cable is laid if the opening is provided with lighting.

The contact ends of the cable are fixed to the metal profile approximately in the place where spotlights should be installed. It is best if the cable is enclosed in a plastic corrugated pipe– to avoid accidental damage to the insulation on the sharp edges of galvanized profiles.

When the prepared bottom strip of drywall is installed, it will perfectly cover all the ugliness of the wires.

Fabrication and installation of the lower plasterboard arch panel

When the frame and the front parts of the arch are installed, you can proceed to the manufacture of the lower strip, which will cover the entire unsightly appearance of the frame.

First, the full length of the arcuate bend of the arch and the width of the distance between the installed arched frame parts are measured with a tape measure.

The dimensions are transferred to drywall, and a rectangular strip of the required dimensions is cut out of it.

Next, the drywall strip needs to be bent into an arch, however, the material is hard and brittle, so it can easily be broken, ruining the part. In order for the process etc went smoothly, you can use two methods to bend this material:

1. The prepared part is marked along its entire length into transverse strips 50 mm wide.

Further, cuts are made along the marked lines, about half the depth of the drywall.
Then the part is carefully bent and immediately, without delay, is screwed to the metal profile, which is located inside the arched structure.

Video: simple drywall arch

2. The second method of bending drywall, in principle, is even simpler than the first, but it will take a little longer, since you have to wait for the material to take the desired shape.

First, a spiked roller is forcefully passed along the drywall strip, which pierces the top layer of cardboard with its sharp spikes.

If there is no such roller in the master’s arsenal, you can use a sharp construction knife - with it, cuts of 20 ÷ 30 mm in size are made on the drywall surface, at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 mm from each other, both in length and in width.

In the next step, the panel, on the side of the punctures, must be moistened with a sponge with water and leaned against the wall, setting the long side vertically.

After about 15 ÷ 20 minutes, the first results can be seen - the panel will begin to bend under its own weight. Then the part is wetted again and left for another 40 minutes.

It is possible, especially for the ideal bend of the arch, to knock down a structure from three boards with the letter P (a kind of conductor) with the dimensions of the place of the doorway where the arch will be installed. Then turn it over, setting it on the horizontal part.

Further, in the same way, having moistened the drywall part with water, it is laid on the legs of an inverted letter P, moistened side up. After 20 minutes, its middle will begin to sag inside the structure. Then, it is moistened again and left for 40 ÷ 60 minutes for complete subsidence to the horizontal bridge of the structure.

By the way, a similar method of bending a drywall strip sometimes allows you to make an arch without a frame at all, as shown in the attached video clip:

Video : giving bending drywall arch

Still wet drywall on a metal profile with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at a distance of no more than 100 mm from each other.

The next step is to cut holes in the designated places on this part of the arch, into which, after finishing, it will be possible to install Spotlights(if their installation is provided).

Having made holes, you need to pull the cables inside the structure to them, but they should not be completely pulled out of the holes, as the protruding ends of the wires will interfere with the finishing.

arch decoration

Having completed the installation of the frame and sheathing, you can proceed to finishing the arch with putty. Only by closing all the seams and recesses from the heads of the screws with a putty mixture and leveling it, you can get a neat arch.

The puttying process is carried out in three stages:

- the first layer evens out deep flaws;

- the second - displays even forms of the arch;

- the third layer is the finishing one, and with its help the ideal smoothness of the surface is achieved.

However, before taking on the putty, it is recommended to strengthen the corners of the arched openingspecial perforated corner, which will easily take any curvilinear shape.

Fiberglass mesh can be used in place of corners, but it will not give the sharp, even, and reinforced edge that corners can. The installation of the corner is carried out using self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at a distance of 150 ÷ 200 mm from each other.

Next, you can proceed to work with.

For work with drywall, an acrylic or gypsum-based putty is used, designed for interior work.

The acrylic composition can be purchased in ready-made pasty form, while the gypsum mixture is sold as a dry mortar. Mix it immediately before use. The best way to do this is with a mixer attachment, which is attached to a drill.

You need to know that you can not immediately knead a large amount of putty, as it seizes very quickly, so it must be prepared in small portions. There is always an instruction on the packaging of the building material, which must be carefully studied in order to find out the exact “life” time of the prepared composition and the complete drying of the plastered surface.

The first step is to finish the drywall joints and the main walls of the doorway.

The work is carried out with the help of wide and medium-width spatulas. One of them putty putty on the joint, and, as far as possible, smooth it out, comparing the surfaces of drywall and doorway.

Having closed the joints between the drywall and the wall in the doorway, you can immediately close the self-tapping caps on this part of the structure with putty. Carrying out this process, you need to remember that the surface must be perfectly flat, so it is necessary to achieve this particular effect. For this stage of work, you can use a metal trowel, which will immediately cover a large area.

The first layer closes the deep joints of drywall with the wall. Here it is very important to distribute the putty into all the recesses and chips, since it is necessary to bring the seams on the same level with the wall and the arched structure.

Do not apply too thick layers of material, as raw putty can quickly separate from the wall surface. It's okay, if necessary, instead of three, you can put four layers of putty - they will hold on much more reliably than two or three very thick ones.

Applying putty to all wide joints, before it dries, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh should be applied on top. This easy-to-use material can be purchased in any desired width, so strengthening wide gaps will not be a problem.

From the coil, the required length of the mesh is measured, and with the help of a spatula, this tape is then pressed into the putty, stretched and leveled.

The arched bend, trimmed on both sides with a perforated corner, must also be treated with a layer of putty, comparing the surfaces.

If the junction of two drywall planes on the arched opening is reinforced with a fiberglass mesh, then if necessary, it can be cut in some places, since it should lie on the surface perfectly evenly, without waves and folds.

When all seams are sealed and reinforced with reinforcing materials, the first layer is left to dry.
After it dries, it is necessary to go over the surfaces with medium grit sandpaper to level the dried putty. By doing this, you need to try to “knock down” all the sharp protrusions so that they do not interfere with further work. But, at the same time, the structure must be handled very carefully so as not to expose the reinforcing elements.

Aligned joints should be well cleaned of dust with a damp sponge.

Next, you can move on to the second thin layer of finishing putty, which should cover and level all surfaces.
After it dries, the entire structure is cleaned with fine sandpaper (with a grain of about 220).

Before applying the third layer, it is necessary to again carry out measures to clean all joints and smooth surfaces from putty dust.

Finishing layer must make the arch "clean"

The final coat should make the finish smooth. The putty is applied in a very thin layer, and in this case, a ready-made paste-like material made on an acrylic basis is best suited.

In the process of work, it is necessary to smooth out all the traces left by the spatula.

When finished, the structure is left to dry for at least 8 ÷ 12 hours. The level of dryness of the material can be determined by its color - it should brighten to pure white.
Next, there is a grinding process, and it is better to carry it out with a special grinding machine, on which fine-grained sandpaper (grain 280 ÷ 400) is fixed, and then a soft polishing cloth.

Grinding is carried out until the surface is perfectly smooth.

After the arch has been sanded, you can paint it if it was planned. After painting in the doorway, special built-in

Making and installing an arch is not so difficult process. The main thing is to figure out the little things, how each of the stages of work goes, and having understood all the nuances, you can purchase materials and get down to business.

Prices for popular types of putty

Putties

And for those who have already filled their hands, we can offer a more difficult task:

Video: monumental arch with columns

GKL is widely used in finishing work indoors. Due to the ability to bend the sheet under a certain impact, structures of various shapes are obtained, for example, a drywall semi-arch.

For the successful and high-quality completion of the task, certain devices and components will be required, but first you need to draw up a design diagram based on measurements and calculate the required amount of materials with a small margin.

To work you need:

GKL plates with a thickness of 9 to 12.5 mm. If it is planned to create a structure with numerous bends and tiered layers, then for rounded sections it is advisable to choose a special arched drywall with a thickness of 6.5 mm.
Frame details. The crate can be erected from a metal profile or wooden beam. The first option is more preferable, since it can also be subjected to simple processing to obtain the desired shape. In order not to bend the elements on their own, an arched profile is purchased.
Lighting: cable, LED lamps.
Facing. To create a single surface, you will need putty, a primer and a metal perforated corner, as an alternative to which you can use a reinforcing mesh.
Drywall screws for metal or wood profiles.

For the installation of a drywall arch, the same set of materials is used as for the installation of conventional boxes, but, among other things, a flexible or arched profile is needed here

List of tools:

To process the GKL and create a frame, you will need a construction knife, an electric jigsaw, a hand saw, a drill, a screwdriver, metal shears, nozzles (crowns), bits, files and drills.
To mark surfaces and details, you will need a tape measure, a square, a meter ruler, pencils or a marker.
For subsequent cladding - a container, a set of spatulas, a grater, a grinder or a hand bar, brushes.

The GKL arch does not require an unnecessarily expensive and complex tool, a standard set is enough

A needle roller may also be required to bend the elements. It is taken into account that the devices are selected depending on the chosen technology.

Frame installation

Creating a crate:

The arched profile is mounted simply and quickly, but it is quite expensive, so many craftsmen prefer to make arches based on notched PN profiles, while wooden structures are used extremely rarely.

In the form of a semi-arch, it looks much more impressive if the design is wide, high and provides free passage. But this may require an expansion of the available space, which needs to be agreed.

On a note! If the opening is ready, then the profiles are mounted with a small recess from the edge, equal to the thickness of the gypsum board.

Drywall preparation

Further procedures are also performed by hand and are divided into two stages.

Drawing a semi-arch

The most correct process can be done using a template from fiberboard or HDF.

Step-by-step instruction:

To reduce costs, the structure can be divided into two parts. From the straight section, dimensions are pointwise taken to the middle of the frame, where a mark is made with a marker. The data obtained is carried over to drywall scraps, from which details are cut out.
The second part is created using a template: for this, a fiberboard fragment is fixed according to the mark from the center to the edge. The height of the fixed part must match the end of the bend.
An arc pattern is created along the inside.
The element is removed, the desired shape is cut out and transferred to a drywall sheet. With the help of an electric jigsaw, the excess is cut off.
The second part is also created according to the template.

To create straight sectors of the arch body, a standard sheet with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used.

You can also draw a semi-arch on drywall by a large number measurements, but this method is rather complicated, because the design may have a smoother or sharper bend, which is not always possible to calculate.

On a note! If it is assumed that there is a backlight, then a cable is laid and areas for reaming are outlined.

Leaf bending

Such a procedure is necessary to obtain the lower contour of the future semi-arch. You can bend the GKL plate in different ways, which are selected depending on specific situation. For convenience, the opening space is also divided into two parts: the straight section is made solid, and the curving section is processed.

Cutting with a knife or cutter. This option allows you to get almost any degree. A piece of drywall is cut to the desired size, its wrong side is divided into parallel lines in increments of 1 to 5 cm perpendicular to the length. V-shaped grooves are cut with a knife, reaching the front of the cardboard, but not damaging it. An alternative is milling to a depth equal to the thickness of the sheet minus 1–2 mm.
Bending with needle roller and water. Such a procedure is most often performed according to a template, but if you are careful, you can bend the part immediately along the contour. To do this, the wrong side is repeatedly rolled by the tool until it acquires a perforated appearance and is wetted. But water is applied without excess, so as not to damage the structure of the sheet. After 15 minutes after processing, the drywall slab can be bent to the desired shape.

It is possible to bend the GKL by the dry method much faster, but the wet method of bending gives a higher quality, because after drying, the performance characteristics of the sheet become the same

In the complete absence of experience in carrying out such work, it is recommended to experiment on scraps.

GKL installation

The assembly of the structure is not difficult:

A base is mounted on the frame, creating the outlines of a semi-arch. Fasteners are carried out on self-tapping screws, which are recessed flush with the surface. Marks are made to determine the location of the fixtures.
Further, according to the dimensions taken from the resulting structure, the part is cut out and bent.
Based on the selected method, a radius is created, the element is fixed to the screws.
Cut holes for light sources.

Wiring for built-in lighting is done before the sheathing of the GKL structure, and, as a rule, the wires must be tightened into a plastic or metal corrugation

The result should be a semi-arch, which will require only puttying work.

Finishing

For the final cladding, a dry or ready-mix is used. Procedure:

The primer is being processed. Particular attention is paid to cut edges.
The composition is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions.
The recesses at the joints are first smeared.
A perforated corner or reinforcing mesh is applied along the edges, the elements are firmly fixed with a stapler.
Putty is applied to create a uniform and even surface.

The arch cladding technique is no different from the standard GKL putty

In the future, the semi-arch can be painted or finished with various moldings and overlays.

Arched structures in the interior have been at the height of fashion for many years: they allow you to beautifully decorate the doorway in those places where it is not possible for some reason to put a door. The most common options for using drywall semi-arches are inside residential premises. Such arches and semi-arches will become a worthy decoration of a doorway or part of interior partition in the living room, will be convenient in the kitchen or in the corridor - in those places where the daily traffic is high enough, and add charm to the interior design. The ease of working with drywall, the main material for a semi-arch, allows even beginners to make such a design with their own hands.

What is a semi-arc? This is a design that, like the classic arch, is basically a circle, but if half a circle is taken to make an arched vault, it is quite logical that only a quarter is needed for a semi-arch.

Important: GKL has a small thickness (up to 6.5 mm), which allows it to be easily bent to create curved parts. In the absence of GKL, you can use GKL ceiling plasterboard.

Often a semi-arch is a variant of covering an opening with one rounded corner, while the second can remain straight. The fillet can be based on the diameter of the circle for a classic arch fitted into the opening. Another option is a semi-arch, created on the basis of a circle of a larger diameter than the width of the opening, then the rounding of the corner will be small.

To create a semi-arch with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

Sheets of arched drywall (GKL);
Profiles for drywall installation: guide 27x28mm and ceiling 60x27mm;
Putty on drywall;
Reinforcing tape (serpyanka);
Acrylic primer;
Putty for interior work;
Protective arched corner (plastic or aluminum);
Drywall self-tapping screws 25 or 30 mm long;
Dowels-nails for mounting guides (size 6xch0 or 6x60);
Profile seal.

The amount of materials is calculated depending on the size of the opening and the shape of the semi-arch.

In addition, a special toolkit will come in handy:

Knife, painting for cutting drywall (you can use a jigsaw);
Roulette;
Water or laser level;
Metal shears for cutting profiles and corners;
A hammer;
Perforator;
Screwdriver;
Spatulas.

Making a semi-arch is a simple and inexpensive process, but it requires care in measurements and accuracy in calculations.

It is with this that all work begins on the creation of a semi-arched vault in the opening:

We take measurements from the opening;
We plan the shape of the semi-arch and calculate the amount required material;
We make a pattern (template) for cutting curvilinear elements;
We clean the opening from the remnants of the old finish (remove the trim, remove the old putty and plaster);
Using a tape measure and a level, we mark the places where the arch profile guides will be attached.

After all the preparation work has been completed, you can proceed directly to the creation of a profile frame and cutting drywall.

Step-by-step production of a semi-arch with your own hands from drywall

The first step in the manufacture of semi-arches is the fastening of guide profiles. They are mounted on the sides of the doorway at a distance from the edge equal to the thickness of the drywall sheet on both sides: this way the edges of the semi-arch will not stand out relative to the wall. You need to fasten the guides with a dowel-nail in increments of about 40 cm. Then, if there is a sealing tape for the guides, we fix it on top. We measure the arc of the future semi-arch with a tape measure. We cut off the guide profile of the same length and make notches on its sides every 5-6 cm along the entire length - it will serve as the lower guide arch.

After that, it is necessary to draw an arc of the desired size and diameter on a drywall sheet, and make a second similar part in a mirror image according to the template - they will be attached on both sides of the opening.

In conclusion, it remains to fix the drywall and the bottom rail into the opening.

This can be done in two ways:

We first fasten the sheets of drywall with self-tapping screws to the already mounted profiles, and then, gradually bending, we fix the lower guide profile to them;
You can initially fix the guide profile to the bottom of the drywall arc, and then the entire assembled structure attach to the side profiles in the opening.

Both methods will require some skill, but at the same time they will allow you to carefully fix drywall construction in the opening.

How to make a drywall semi-arch with your own hands: we bend drywall

There is very little left before finishing work: you need to fix the bottom strip of drywall in the semi-arch. The end strip is cut out of drywall with a length equal to the length semi-arch arcs, and the width is equal to the depth of the opening. To attach drywall to a curved surface, it must be bent.

This can be done in several ways:

For a slight bend, you can use the "dry" method - install the strip on supports and lightly load in the middle with a small weight until the drywall takes the desired shape;
You can apply notches on the inside every 10 centimeters and gradually bend the strip with your hands, immediately fixing it with self-tapping screws on the profile;
The most common is the “wet” method: moisten the inside of the strip with water using a wide brush and set it at an angle so that it bends under its own weight.

Important: a strip bent in a “wet” way can be immediately screwed onto self-tapping screws, or it can be left to dry if it is bent in the desired arc.

Now it remains to process the semi-arches and carry out finishing work.

Final processing of drywall semi-arches

To start, the junction of drywall sheets should be pasted over with reinforcing tape. It is attached to the primer and immediately covered with putty on drywall. The edges of the arch and the finished opening are trimmed with protective corners. For straight lines you can use plastic corners, and finish the arc itself with aluminum.

It is worth fixing them on liquid nails or putty, carefully adhering to the surface. You can even "plant" the corners on the screws in some places for reliability.

After installing the corners, the entire surface of the semi-arch must be primed, and then covered with putty in several layers. After that, finishing work continues in the same way as with ordinary walls: cleaning, sanding and coating with paint, wallpaper or other types of finishes.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a drywall semi-arch (video)

A plasterboard semi-arch is beautiful and comfortable. It gives lightness to the opening in the room, visually raises the ceiling and fills the space with light. Mounting it is quite simple and inexpensive. Observe the accuracy in measurements, the sequence in installation and carefully fasten all the elements - and the finished semi-arch will please the eye for a long time.

Examples of plasterboard semi-arches (photo of interiors)

Semi-arch - a curvilinear overlap of the opening with one rounded corner. May have different types: represent both a quarter of a circle (half of a classic arch), and be part of a circle of a much larger diameter, up to a slight rounding of one corner.

The plasterboard arch perfectly emphasizes the contrast of the room, goes well with the reliefs of the room, multi-level plasterboard ceilings, and decorative walls.

The semi-arch is very conveniently made of drywall: the design is light, inexpensive and easy to install even with your own hands.

This type of arch is considered the most stylish option, suitable for both very narrow and very wide openings. This form of arch is quite effective for dividing into interior zones, while it does not take up much space and does not "weight" the opening. Light more freely penetrates from room to room, which visually makes both zones more spacious. Next, we will describe how to make a plasterboard semi-arch on our own, with our own hands, without involving specialists in these works.

Necessary materials and tools

First you need to think about the shape of the arch and take measurements to calculate the amount of material needed. It is advisable to make a template with your own hands, which will not allow you to make mistakes in the calculations and preparation of materials.

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To complete the semi-arch, you will need the following materials:

GKL (special thin arched drywall 6.5 mm, but it is permissible to use a cheaper ordinary ceiling GKL);
rack and ceiling guide profiles (PN 27x28 mm, additionally PP 60x27 mm);
sealing tape;
putty for drywall joints;
sickle for joints (reinforcing tape) or paper tape;
"dowel-nails" 6x40 or 6x60;
metal screws, preferably MN 25 or MN 30, are taken for a frequent step of attaching drywall to the profile;
acrylic primer;
protective arched corner made of plastic and aluminum for straight sections;
primer, putty.

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Of the tools it is desirable to have:

electric jigsaw (knife for cutting GK, clerical knife);
aluminum rule;
roulette;
a hammer;
perforator with a drill;
screwdriver;
grinder (metal scissors);
level;
spatulas.

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Work order

by the most the best option for bending is the so-called arched drywall (GKLA). This special variety has a smaller thickness (6.5 mm), due to which it has greater plastic properties.

The opening should be cleaned of the old finish. If the fastening will be carried out to the wall, then with the help of a level, a plumb line and a tape measure, outline the places for attaching the guides. Where it is planned to attach the arch, it is not necessary to finish the surfaces, but the plaster or putty done will only benefit.

On both sides of the opening, two guides are attached, stepping back from each edge by a distance equal to the thickness of the GK sheet, in order to create a smooth surface without protrusions beyond the wall after fastening. Under them across is a horizontal profile with a slightly curved lower edge, since the surface is assumed to be inclined here. Then the profiles are attached to upper part opening at the same distance from the edge. Thus, the guides will make up the perimeter of the arch, and the thickness of the frame will be equal to the thickness of the wall minus double the thickness of the drywall.

Fixing to the wall is done with dowel-nails in increments of up to 400 mm. The profile is connected to each other with special bolts. Special self-tapping screws are taken for mounting drywall to the profile, usually MN 25 or MN 30. It is advisable to glue all profiles with sealing tape.

A sheet of drywall is taken at the desired height and width of the opening, the necessary arc is drawn on it, which then needs to be cut with a jigsaw or a knife for cutting the HA. There will be two such details, in mirror image. It is convenient to draw an arc using a flexible long plastic nut or take other types of similar material that can serve as a pattern. Asymmetry simplifies the task of forming a semi-arch.

Curved guides are being prepared for the lower edge of the arch: along a segment of the guide profile, which is equal in length to the arc of the arch, cuts are made with a grinder or metal scissors at a distance of 60-65 mm along the back and side faces along the entire length. This approach will allow you to gently bend the profile. If the width of the opening is large enough or the depth (i.e. wall thickness) exceeds 25 cm, and the curvature of the arc is large, then additional jumpers may be needed, which are made from the ceiling profile, based on the width of which (60 mm) the incision step was taken, in Otherwise, incisions can be made at a smaller distance (50 mm each).

First, fix the cut drywall parts on the previously installed guides, then attach the curved guide to them on weight.
Immediately attach curved guides for the bottom edge to the parts cut out of drywall, and then attach everything together to the opening.

In order to attach the lower end strip of the arch, it must be slightly bent. There are different types of actions for this. To give a slight curvature to thin arched drywall, you can use the so-called dry method, when the strip is placed on supports and slightly loaded. This is more suitable for full arches of the "modern" or "romantic" type. Too much force should not be applied, as drywall can simply break. Another dry method, more appropriate for drywall semi-arches, is to apply notches to the inside of the end plasterboard strip every 5-10 cm, which will also allow you to bend it with your own hands at the desired angle, screwing each part with self-tapping screws.

If the semi-arch involves lighting, then it is fixed immediately after all profiles are fixed.

The wet method is more commonly used, which is suitable for any curvature, however, significant curvature in semi-arches is not so common. Drywall from the wrong side should be slightly moistened with water, evenly applying it with a brush, and placed at an angle - then it will begin to sag slightly under its own weight. You can lightly walk on the dampened drywall with a spiked roller. Quickly enough, the strip will become suitable for work, bending as it should. In this case, you can bend the strip in the shape of an arch and leave it in a fixed position until it dries, and then screw it on. If you already have experience working with this material, then you can immediately bend it with your own hands in place onto a firmly fixed frame, fastening it with self-tapping screws as it bends and moves forward. By the way, the sheet bends better across than along.

Sometimes they make up a long strip of several smaller ones, but this forces the use of jumpers at the joints, and also adds the hassle of processing extra seams. A solid strip looks much more impressive and requires less attention during processing.