Making a do-it-yourself slipway for body repair. Making a slipway for body work with your own hands Do-it-yourself slipway for an engine drawings

05.11.2019

How much will it cost to buy a slipway or leveling stand? At least 50 tyr. In this case, this slipway will be suitable only for work with light damage. For serious and complex work, you will need a stand or slipway with a much higher price, and it can be 10 or even 20 times higher than the price indicated above. I bring to your attention a small overview of the manufacture of a very powerful slipway with a budget that you yourself can determine. It all depends on the price of the metal, which can be purchased both at metal depots and at acceptances of ferrous metal. Basis 16th channel. Why 16th? Well, at least because the width of 2 welded channels allows almost any car to freely drive into it, and this is important, but in terms of strength, this slipway will give odds to any factory one.

The idea of creating a slipway was taken from the Internet, in particular from Vitaly Kakhovka. Dimensions 4.5 by 1.85. Why is this? Because it's normal size. And the point. One of the biggest advantages of this slipway is that it can be put in a standard garage, or any other room in which it fits. Unlike similar frame construction slipways, this slipway does not have the so-called “geese” (as in the photo), which increase the working area both in front and on the side by a sufficiently large distance, which does not allow using such a slipway in an ordinary garage.

For the manufacture of the slipway, 46 meters of the 16th channel were purchased. Moreover, half was found at the acceptance, which reduced the cost of it by several tyr. 20 meters was purchased at 25 rubles per kg. at the acceptance of black metal, and the rest was bought at a metal base at a price of 570 rubles per meter.

The channel was immediately marked and cut to size.

The length of the extreme ones is 4.5 m. The length of the middle ones is 3.76 and the length of the jumpers is 1.5 m. Then the channel was assembled into boxes and tightened with clamps. Tacked at the joints at several points. After welding 2 boxes of 4.5 meters each to eliminate the deflection on the boxes, they were again tightened with clamps and pieces of the 12th channel with holes had to be welded to them and the boxes were tightened with bolts. After that, the boxes were welded with tacks to each other, so that they would not be deformed during welding. Later they will be cut. After that, the boxes were scalded more thoroughly. Without special markings, by eye, with tacks of 4-6 cm in 10-20 cm.

After welding all the channels into blanks, in the form of boxes, half of the blanks are set aside. We lay out on the floor the outer contour of the slipway from boxes 4.5 meters long (namely, this length will be the slipway) and internal, more precisely perpendicular boxes 1.5 meters long. I set the horizontality with the help of a level, placing under the box the thickness of wood chips or metal scraps that was required. Also, before welding the first outer contour of the slipway, the diagonals were measured several times with a tape measure. After that, the boxes were welded (with tacks in the corners and in the center, as well as in inside corners and centers) between each other into a rectangle. Then this design was turned over 180 * and tacked from the back side at all corners. Then all joints were scalded thoroughly. After that, the first contour of the frame was again turned 180 * and scalded. After that, we proceed to the assembly of the inner part of the slipway. To do this, we have 2 boxes of 1.5 m each, the same as the outer boxes. We grab them to a long box, stepping back from the outer box 6 cm.

We do the same with the other side.

Why 6 and not 4 or 8? Don't know. I decided that less and more is not worth it. Yes, and longitudinal blanks - the boxes were already measured and cut off exactly for this gap, as it was intended. Then again we repeat the procedure for turning the future slipway 180 * and scald the lower part. Then turn over again and brew the upper part.

After that, we insert the inner longitudinal boxes and, also stepping back 6 cm from the outer boxes, we grab them in the newly welded transverse boxes.

The process is repeated one more time. We turn the slipway 180 * and scald. Then flip over again front side and boil completely. (The vertical walls were also scalded in a horizontal position, because I cannot weld the vertical seams with high quality). Why am I doing this? In addition, the slipway for a couple of days went up and down many times with a winch. Although, it was probably worthwhile to make something like a rotating platform on 2 bases before that. It would make it easier. Anyway. The slipway is welded. What slipway without legs? Nope, this is some kind of legless horse, and you won’t be able to fix anything on it. For the legs, I decided to use nuts, the largest I found in the store. I don’t remember, probably 24. Well, with them bolts, 15 cm long, for future adjustment of the slipway in relation to the horizon. The nuts were welded on the corners of the slipway.

We are starting to manufacture fixtures for attaching a car to a slipway, as well as for pulling and pushing.

I made the clamping jaws even before the start of welding the slipway. I can’t advise you to make just such ones, because I haven’t pulled a single patient on my “operating table” yet. I hope they don't let me down. I made them from 2 railway platforms for attaching rails to sleepers. Having cut it in half, I welded half of the old Soviet file on each. Camping welded dots on the inside, which I then turned into rhombuses with the help of a grinder. I decided not to weld anything on the outer part so that the thresholds of the car from the outside remain intact. I welded a plate onto the inner edge of the platform, approximately the thickness of the clamping jaw, so that when the jaws are tightened, the upper, clamping part does not warp, but evenly clamps the threshold flange.

For the manufacture of racks with clamps, on which the clamping jaws will be welded and on which the car will be installed, as well as devices for extracting, clamps and hooks, metal was purchased at metal acceptance with a thickness of 10 to 20 mm. For the manufacture of racks (let's call them paws), I used centimeter metal, cutting out from the acquired platform with a width about 20 cm and a length in width of 2 channels and a gap. i.e. 36-38 cm, as well as vertical racks, 30 cm high .

Transverse jib reinforcements were cut from the same metal.

After welding the 2nd vertical rack to the platform, I realized that it’s not worth cooking like that, because the platform itself bends from welding. Then I had to unbend the platform with a sledgehammer, putting it under the edges wooden blocks, and lower the vertical rack between the slipway boxes (although the slipway had to be lifted and placed on wooden logs so that the rack did not reach the floor). But to be honest, it didn't help much. I had to weld their lower platforms together with tacks, clamping them with clamps and only after that weld the transverse scarves. The remaining 2 paws were cooked immediately by welding them with tacks between themselves.

Then, from separately purchased KAMAZ (thickness 15 mm.) fragments and scraps of springs, upper clamps were cut, 20-25 cm long, with a slight offset from the center, holes for KAMAZ bolts were burned in them fixing the head to the cylinder block (16mm), i.e. what I could quickly find, durable and not subject to deformation and thread stripping. Pieces of the 12th reinforcement are welded along the edges, for the same purposes as on the clamping jaws, so that there is no distortion when clamping. I used 20 mm as mortgages (lower stops into which bolts are inserted). a metal strip with pre-existing holes in it. I just had to cut them into pieces. 8 for paws and a few more for amplifiers. (Later you will understand).

The next step was to weld the body clips to the uprights. I don't have a photo, but I'll try to explain.

At first, ready-made racks were bolted to the slipway, which was previously set on the level. I screwed them to approximately those places on the slipway, on which they will subsequently stand. Clamping all 4 paws, he measured one height with a level, to which the clamping jaws were welded, which were first tightened with clamps, tacked by welding, and then, after removing the paws from the slipway and laying them in a horizontal position, welded to the paws from all sides.

The dimensions of my paws are indicated above, the width of the jaws was taken arbitrarily, i.e. based on the availability of material, and as I already wrote, the clamps were made from railway platforms and welded file halves. Bolts for clamps at 16. Holes in the jaws, previously, temporarily tacked by welding at the ends to each other to maintain alignment, were drilled on a drilling machine. But once again I want to focus your attention on the fact that all sizes are arbitrary and were taken on the basis that there would be as little scraps as possible from the available metal. I think that sponges can and should be made with a width not less than mine, but better than a larger one. Bolts and, accordingly, holes for tightening the jaws may need to have more and their diameter should also be larger. And it is possible to use factory clamps (which are commercially available) even better, but this is again an expense.

Ready slipway in front of you.
Well, that's all for today. Next time I will tell you how to make different devices and devices for stocks.

РќСЂР°РІРёС‚СЃСЏ

Types of stocks

There are four types of structures in total, each of which is used in certain conditions. Some types of equipment can be made independently. How are the slipways used today characterized?

Rolling

Differ in a possibility of use for restoration of a body of the most various cars. The devices available on the slipway allow you to fix the car without flanging the thresholds. Rolling equipment is compact, so it can be used in a limited space - that is, it makes sense to make a slipway for body repair with your own hands to install it in the garage. The disadvantage of this equipment is that it cannot be used in the presence of distortions and changes in the geometry of the body.

floor standing

It assumes the presence of a rail along which retractable devices move. This design helps to carry out repairs of varying complexity, as the mechanisms move to any point on the slipway.

Advantages of outdoor equipment:

relatively low cost;
operational installation;
small footprint;
ease of manufacture: you can make a floor slipway for body repair with your own hands;
if necessary, you can remove the retractable devices and use the floor (the rails are on the same level with it) to accommodate equipment or other purposes.

The downside is the inconvenience of measuring individual elements of the body and its overall geometry.

frame

It uses a metal frame on which the machine is fixed by means of chains. Despite the fact that such stocks are used when correcting not too severe damage, structurally frame equipment is more complex. The fixation of the body at the desired height and in the required position is carried out by means of clamps, and the deformed part is straightened by chains connected to a power hydraulic device.

To simplify lifting, auto frame slipways are often used in conjunction with scissor lifts.

The advantages of these designs:

access to the car bottom and various elements located below;
the ability to perform body work at different heights.

Frame stocks do not take up much space, however, serious deformations cannot be corrected with their help, since the number of exhaust points is small. Therefore, it makes sense to use such structures during straightening and other simple damage.

Stages of manufacturing a slipway

The most popular platform or frame structures. This is due to the simplicity of their manufacture, compact dimensions and relatively large functionality. Finding suitable drawings on the Internet today is not difficult. The best way- measure the finished factory slipway and focus on its design. Here the main requirement is the dimensions, which must correspond to the area of \u200b\u200bthe workshop or garage. The recommended dimensions of the slipway are 4.5 × 1.85 m. Externally, this is a structure where one frame is inserted into another.

Necessary tools and materials

It will take welding machine, hydraulic device, grinder, drill with drills, spray gun or paint brushes. From the materials you need to purchase:

profile pipe 40 × 80 mm (calculate the length in accordance with the drawing, taking into account the jumpers) with a thickness of 4 mm;
metal for making scarves (thickness 4 mm);
clamping devices (you can buy factory ones, but if this is not possible, then how to make them yourself will be described below);
bolts, nuts;
primer;
regular or powder paint.

First, the outer frame is welded from the profile, then to finished construction attached to the inner frame. It is necessary to boil from above and below, turning the structure over. Do not forget to use kerchief reinforcements at the corners of the structure to increase its rigidity. If you have doubts about the strength of the frame, weld a pair of cross beams in the middle. When the frame is ready, it is necessary to attach legs to it from below in order to adjust the horizontal position of the device. To do this, you can use bolts 15 cm long and nuts 24, which are welded at the corners of the structure. If you wish, install wheels instead of hardware - you get a mobile slipway. This makes sense if you have a perfectly flat floor or you put the structure on rails that are in a strictly horizontal position.

Devices for fastening the body to the slipway

If it is not possible to purchase ready-made clamping clamps, then they can be made independently from the railway platforms, through which the rails are attached to the sleepers. Cut each one in half and inner part weld metal, which, using a grinder, cut into rhombuses. Leave the outer side as is, so that when installed on the thresholds of the car, their outer side is not damaged. Weld a 4 mm thick plate on the inside as well. This is necessary so that the clamping part evenly fixes the threshold and does not warp.

Making racks, or paws, and upper clamps

You will need steel 1 cm thick. Cut out rectangles 200 mm wide and 350 mm long. Weld vertical racks 300 mm high to the resulting platforms, do not forget about triangular reinforcing braces made of the same metal. For the manufacture of upper clamps with a length of 200 - 250 mm, it is best to use fragments from KAMAZ springs 1.5 cm thick. You need to burn holes in them for mounting bolts.

As the latter, use hardware that secures the cylinder head with a diameter of 16 mm. These are strong enough products that do not allow thread breakage. Weld 12 mm reinforcement from the edges - it will guarantee the absence of distortions when fixing the body.

Clamp welding

Align the frame strictly on the level to ensure its horizontality. Further:

attach the uprights to the frame with bolts and nuts;
set the height with a level: paws should be on it;
focusing on it, weld the clamping clamps.

The last stage is the cleaning of the structure from rust, primer treatment, followed by painting.

Here you can use factory hydraulic devices or a home-made mechanism. In any case, the capacity should be 1.5 - 2 tons. To fasten the pulling structures, use an overlay made of a channel and installed on the frame of the slipway. So that the pulling mechanism and chains can be placed at any point, drill holes in the frame around the entire perimeter of the structure.

If you prefer homemade design racks, it is better to use a tower device. Although it is heavier than other varieties, it provides uniform traction over the entire height.

Such a rack can be placed in close proximity to the body, while the power cylinder does not interfere during operation (the rod comes out from behind).

Using a standard hydraulic pump is not the best solution. It is much more reliable to make such a unit from a jack with a lifting capacity of 8 tons. You will have to upgrade the central cylinder, replacing it with a suitable tube. This is necessary to increase the volume of the poured liquid by 300 - 400 ml. In the upper part of the jack, near the fitting, make a breather (you can use a grease gun bent at 90 degrees). And to make it more convenient to work, instead of a bypass bolt, which requires a key, install a “butterfly” that is turned off by hand.

On our forum, and on the forums of our auto repair friends, questions constantly pop up on the manufacture of a slipway for body repairs in your garage. Many try to make it with their own hands, but sometimes new knowledge, solutions are required. possible errors and you have to seek help from your colleagues.

Usually, two versions of home-made stocks are considered: mobile and stationary (concrete floor).

In this article, I tried to compile useful information from our forum, including: tips, drawings, photos for making a slipway and give an impetus to those who are not yet fully confident in their abilities and are afraid to start making it on their own.

Mobile homemade slipway

Here is such a slipway made by our forum member Yevsey.

The design of the light and mobile Finnish slipway Autorobot micro A was taken as a basis.

The main materials used in the manufacture of steel channel No. 10 and No. 12.

Below in the photo are the main nodes of the slipway.

Swing lock
crossbar crossbar
crossbar crossbar
power tower power tower

An important detail of the slipway is the grips of the rapids, a kind of vise. For their manufacture, sheet steel with a thickness of 16 mm was used. Threshold grip width 150 mm, tightening bolts 12, and bushings 14 mm. The springs were used from the classic Vase valves. "Sponges" of captures are made of a rasp on metal.

To work with this slipway, hydraulics from a set designed for 10 tons are used.
Here is such a chain lock located on the draft tower (boom) of the slipway, as well as how the threshold grippers work.

Staple at work:

But actually the scheme itself with the dimensions of the slipway.

To simplify the work, special coasters were welded with the arrival of a car on them in front or behind, and it became easier and much faster to bring the slipway under the belly of the car.

This design of the slipway has the ability to put a fixture to pull down. To do this, you need to upgrade it a bit by placing a sliding roller under the chain links.

Cons and pros of this do-it-yourself slipway design. It may be worth considering them if you repeat this or a similar design.

Cons and improvements:

There are only two thresholds and there is no height adjustment.
The lock for turning the boom horizontally: there was iron 5 mm, you need at least 10-15 mm.
During the operation, weak points began to come out, which were strengthened.
The length of the telescopic boom is, in principle, redundant, so you can make it shorter.
How to hook the car to the thresholds from below with these grips, if they do not have flanging, for example, a BMW-type car? To do this, you will need special adapters that cost quite a lot of money (there are homemade options).

Pros:

Both a plus and a minus can be considered the mobility of the slipway and the ability to turn it in different directions, but in a small garage, there will be a problem with movements.
On the other hand, not every car repair requires the use of a slipway, and in this case it can simply be rolled out of the garage. And for a small garage, it will be more practical to make a stationary slipway (we'll talk about it a little lower).

In general, beauty, the car stands dead on the slipway, the hydraulics pull exceptionally easily, as if you are not pulling iron, but cardboard or paper. Before that, I used an ordinary winch, so I can compare and say that this is heaven and earth. The slipway has established itself as a real hard worker, its rating is 5 plus, it is very mobile and reliable.

As one of the options for a small homemade slipway for use in the garage, below in the video from Boris AvtoDok, where he talks in detail about his design.

In the second video, the errors identified already during the work, how he corrected them and what alterations he made.

Stationary floor slipway in the garage

And now, we have smoothly moved to a stationary slipway, or, as it is also called, a floor one.
Here is a statement by Yevsey, the author of a do-it-yourself mobile slipway and which we talked about in the first part of our article:

If I had originally built this garage for body repair, then I would have viewing hole I concreted the channels for its entire length, and to these channels I made the anchor fastening of the grippers to the thresholds of the car. And the traction boom would also be attached to anchor fasteners.
I would also put channels or rails into the walls, that is, I would weld a kind of cage so that it would be possible to pull in any direction simultaneously in several directions. Then I think it would be possible to undertake repairs of any complexity.

What is the most important thing in a slipway? The most important thing is that you can securely fix the car and even then it can be pulled in any direction, of course, if the slipway design allows.

I can’t offer drawings for such a slipway, because. I don’t have my own, but for every master, if the slipway is not purchased, but made with his own hands, then he made it according to the principle of his vision of the situation (tasks to be solved, source materials, garage sizes, finances and other “Wishlist”).

Basically, these are channels welded and embedded in concrete with a cut for fastening various fixtures (threshold grippers, “tower”).
Some car repairmen make a whole cube from channels throughout the entire volume of the garage. Such a kind of slipway allows you to pull the body in any direction and at any angle. Of course, this solution is the most convenient, but very expensive.

The design of a homemade floor slipway in a video from Ivan from Nizhny Novgorod. Video in three parts.

Part one - general design and budget.

Part two - Benefits.

Part three - Drawings and full alignment.

If you are going to make a floor slipway with your own hands, then approach this issue thoughtfully and purposefully. Throw a sketch depending on the size of your garage and the intended work, decide on the list of necessary materials, think about how and where you can save.

It will not be superfluous to familiarize yourself with various designs homemade slipways, which can be found on the Internet abound. And take the best from them, taking into account the mistakes and shortcomings - learn from the mistakes of others!

A modern slipway for car body repair is the most effective equipment for correcting a frame that has received mechanical damage during an accident and other collisions. Recently, traffic accidents are becoming more and more frequent. As a result, all cars, including even those that have been in a minor accident, need body restoration. We will find out what are the features and advantages of slipway equipment, as well as how to make it yourself.

Varieties of stocks

ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline!

There are 4 main types of body repair tool. There are, as a rule, the following varieties of this machine.

Equipment called "frame stand".
Floor type of slipway equipment.
Rolling type of slipway.
Platform type of slipway.

The frame stand is almost the most popular and common type of equipment when we are talking on the execution of finishing manipulations on the body. Not a single type of restoration work in a professional workshop can do without this stand.

Among distinctive features frame stand can be distinguished by its compactness, because it does not take up much space compared to analogues. Also, it is this type of slipway equipment that is considered very comfortable to use and provides many-sided opportunities.

What is a frame stand? This is special installation, which successfully returns the shape of body elements to their original structure. Without this machine, it is practically impossible to imagine body repair work.

The floor type of slipway equipment is a reliable and high-quality equipment. Its use is justified due to the speed and simplicity of installation work.

This type of slipway equipment is installed on a flat area, and then fixed with special anchor bolt fasteners. No additional installation work is required.

A rolling machine is needed for light body work. In this case, the force exerted by the equipment does not exceed 5 tons.

The sliding type of slipway equipment is not fixed to the floor, it can be easily and quickly used by lifting the car onto the machine. All this can be done by one person. The ideal machine for leveling spars, door pillars and other body parts.

As for the equipment, a hook with 2 fixing points, clamps of 5 and 6 tons, a pneumohydraulic pump with a pedal, stands, etc. should come with the rolling slipway.

The dimensions of a conventional slipway are 350 cm long, 220 cm wide, 20 cm high. The mass of the machine is about 400 kg.

The platform slipway has reliable system fixation. Thanks to this, it is possible to stretch the body in different directions, applying at the same time different forces.

DIY manufacturing

Realizing that the slipway effectively replaces physical strength in stretching, Russian body repair enthusiasts came up with a homemade version of it.

The principle of operation of standard slipway equipment is clear: a car is attached to the frame. The main thing is a reliable fixation, because a positive result of the case depends on it.

High-quality slipway equipment is not cheap. Often for this reason, many amateurs decide to make this machine with their own hands.

First of all, the manufacture of a slipway at home involves the calculation of the necessary components. A drawing is made, the required stock of materials is calculated. The basis of the slipway is a tetrahedron made of an iron profile with a section of 50x50 or 70x40. As for the length, 200 cm is considered optimal, and the width should be equal to the wheelbase of the car.

A stiffener made of a similar material - a metal profile, is welded in the middle of the platform. Then, as mentioned above, the calculation is carried out, and the amount of the required metal is ordered at the special base or is found in another way.

The slipway is also equipped with good hydraulics. In this case, a kit that can withstand a load of up to 10 tons is suitable.

Depending on what the slipway will be (mobile or stationary), it is equipped accordingly. The stationary slipway should not move, therefore it is not equipped with wheels. A mobile slipway, on the contrary, in addition to wheels, must also be equipped with a device for storing the machine in a vertical position.

The assembly process is carried out by welding. This means that welding skills are a must.

Here's what to do:

Assemble a rectangle from the profile, and then reinforce in the middle with additional material.

Note. Homemade slipway can be assembled at the request of the future owner. It is likely that he will want to strengthen the machine longitudinally or transversely. So definitely give advice on this occasion does not seem possible.

Heights are welded at the corners of the machine, preventing the car from running off the slipway;
Clamps are installed on the longitudinal sidewalls of the frame;

A power rack is installed in the form of the letter “G”, which can easily move and be fixed anywhere in the frame.

It remains only to paint homemade machine, equip it with components for repair and start operating.

In the video, a home-made body repair installation

You can learn more about the work of the body slipway and its capabilities from video and photo materials, as well as from other publications on our website.

Many motorists would like to know how to make a slipway with their own hands. After all, the car body breaks down quite often, and each time you don’t want to take the car in for repairs at all. You can make a slipway for body repairs yourself if you follow some simple rules and a certain sequence of work.

Why is a frame slipway convenient?

In total there are 3 main types of stocks. These are frame, platform and floor fixtures. Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages. Platform slipway is very convenient for large vehicles. This device is placed on the ground, a car is driven on top of it and fixed with special clamps from all sides. But here it is necessary to understand that the efforts that need to be made to repair the body can be both small and significant.

The floor slipway also has rails on which special exhaust devices for the body can ride. In fact, this is very convenient, because you can even get to the most inaccessible place and fix a very deep dent in the body.

But the most common is the frame slipway. It is very similar in structure to the floor. Only on it you need to put the body, freed from the chassis. By means of a special chain with a lever, even a very deformed body is leveled.

It is the frame fixtures that are the best option for the garage. At the same time, making such a slipway with your own hands will not cause any special difficulties for a man. It is not even necessary to use complex drawings. It will be enough just to measure the place in the garage where it will be possible to install such a device.

At cost, even the manufacture of one frame slipway may be cheaper than body repair at a service station.

Materials and tools for work

To make a slipway for car repair with your own hands, you need to immediately take care of necessary materials and fixtures. Then the process of work will go quickly. So, before work, it is necessary to purchase the following materials:

a channel made of durable metal, the thickness of which must be at least 5 mm;
several unnecessary, but thick pieces of metal to increase the rigidity of the structure;
electric puncher, a set of thick long bolts;
clamps and clamps for subsequent fixing of the car;
reinforced metal chain, pulling mechanism;
nuts, welding machine, oil paint, reinforcing columns.

During the acquisition of materials and tools for work, special attention should be paid to the quality and dimensions of the metal channel. It should be borne in mind that strips will be needed to decorate the slipway around the entire perimeter, as well as transverse strips, which can serve as additional stiffeners. In this case, one should not forget about the columns.

The procedure for manufacturing a frame slipway

First you need to make a drawing with your own hands. This is not difficult at all if you focus on existing examples. When constructing the simplest drawing of a slipway for body repair, it is necessary to take into account not only the allowable dimensions of the future structure, but also take into account the location of some fasteners and clamps.

Work begins with the assembly of the main frame of the slipway. To do this, you must first strengthen both the longitudinal and transverse profile. This is where pieces of thick unnecessary metal will be needed. They just need to be well welded to the ends of the profiles, due to which the slats will be somewhat thicker in these parts.

To the profile that will serve as a cross beam, you must immediately weld the corners, and drill holes for the bolts in them. You need to try to do everything as evenly as possible so that later there are no distortions. The parameters for such holes are selected individually in each case, which largely depends on the brand and dimensions of the existing car.

The longitudinal profile should also be reinforced with corners with holes for bolts and pieces of waste metal. At the same time, it is important that the height of the rack remains at the level of 25 cm. This is the most convenient parameter for subsequent body repairs.

Now all parts for the slipway should be cleaned with a metal brush, primed and painted oil paint. Such measures will reliably protect the fixture in the future from corrosion and damage, as a result, the slipway will serve for many years.

Now you need to assemble the main frame of the slipway. To do this, first the transverse and longitudinal strips are interconnected by means of bolts and nuts, and then racks are also installed on top of such a horizontal structure. For fixing them, M4 type bolts are best suited. They will be able to withstand almost any traction.

Now it is necessary to install the structure made in this way in a permanent place in the garage. It is very important that she does not stagger. At the same time, it is also necessary to take into account that the car must enter the slipway freely, without any problems and restrictions. It is advisable, if the slipway does not stand evenly on the surface, to weld small thin pieces of metal to the bottom of the frame in the right places. After all, it is useless to put something under the mechanism, because this will not give a result.

Finally, in the places pre-planned according to the drawing, all the necessary grips and the chain should be securely strengthened. After the design is once again tested for strength, if it is level, you can safely proceed to repair the car body.

So, the process of making a do-it-yourself frame slipway for a garage is considered. Such a home-made slipway is reliable and convenient enough to eliminate almost any dents on the body. And additional clamps and fasteners will securely hold the car in the position necessary for a complete repair. At the same time, you do not have to spend extra money on expensive car body repairs from specialists.

More related articles: