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Drawings of sailboats for modeling. How to make a ship out of plywood with your own hands? Setting the sails on the model

Frigate Scarlet Sails

Step-by-step instruction

manufacturing

CHINESE JUNK

CHINESE JUNK
So we got to the most important part of the site.
I will give you approximate sizes.
since I made the ship by eye and did not pay much attention to the size. I didn't write them down exactly, but there are some. I will not torment you with marine terms, because I myself am not strong in them, but I will write in a generally accessible language. Well, you know the basic terms. Such as deck, mast, yardarm, keel. Here we will begin our work with the keel, but first we will do some preparatory work. We take a sheet of veneer and lay it on some kind of plywood or board, and smear it well with glue. We fix with buttons so that the sheet does not curl up when it dries. Getting to the keel, length 45 cm
the height of the front part is 12 cm, the back is 8 cm. If the dimensions in height are more than anything terrible, you can always cut off the excess. After the keel has been cut out, we will process it with sandpaper a little. We will remove the gloss, and if there is a texture coating, then we will remove it completely.
Spread glue on one side and leave to dry. You can spread with two, whichever is more convenient for you. While everything is drying, we are marking the edges of the ship. We make one blank template. The width of the rib is 16 cm, the height is 6 cm. The depth of the slot for inserting the keel is 1.5 - 2 cm. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the veneered keel. Next, we proceed to the veneer of the keel. Who doesn't know how it's done
I tell. The veneer is cut into strips slightly larger than the width of the keel. We turn on the iron at full power, but so that the veneer does not burn during veneering. We put the veneer on the keel and smooth it with an iron until it is completely glued. We cut off the excess veneer and clean it with sandpaper stuffed on a bar.
After the keel has been veneered, we will make the deck and we will make the rest of the ship's ribs. The length of the deck is 45 cm, the width is 16 cm. We measure 15 cm on one side, this will be the beginning of the rounding of the bow. We measure 11 cm from the back, this will also be the beginning of the rounding. The width of the back of the deck is 4.5 cm. Photo 5 shows the deck. Now we begin to trouble with the rest of the ribs. Since our keel is curved on the inside, the height of the ribs will naturally change in relation to the inside of the keel to the deck. I'll try to explain the best way to do it. Myself
I understood only when I made the fifth ship. And so let's get started. We lay the keel on a piece of fiberboard as shown in photo 1. We mark 8 cm from the front as well as from the back. And we draw stripes on the keel. It should go something like this
rear side 8 cm, front 5 cm. On the front of the keel we make a step to stop the deck (photo 5). Next, try on the deck, cut off the excess, and turn the keel to the top. We find the lowest point between the keel and the deck and set the first rib. Immediately make marks on the keel and on the deck where you install the ribs. We make the next edge. It will be installed at the beginning of the rounding of the front of the deck.
The width of the rib is 16 cm. We measure the height from the deck to the keel, taking into account the slot. Example. The width of the rib is 14 cm. The height from the inside of the keel to the deck is 3 cm + the depth of the slot is 2 cm and that is 5 cm. Next, we take the first template blank. We lay on the rectangle of the future edge, combining upper part and upper right corner. We outline along the contour. We do the same with the left corner. The workpiece height will change but the main configuration of the rib
will remain. We also do the back part and one edge between them. After that, we make the ribs of the bow of the model. The approximate distance between the ribs is 3 cm. The same is true from the back. After the ribs are ready and fitted, we glue them, let them fix and glue the deck.
When all this is done, we make inserts between the ribs around the entire perimeter. Next, we clean everything and make bevels on the ribs from the bow and rear of the ship. After that, we cut a piece from the veneer sheet to the size of the central part of the ship, coat it with glue, let it dry a little and glue it with an iron. We proceed to the most time-consuming work, veneer the bottom of the ship with stripes. I have them
the width is 6 mm. We take the prepared sheet of veneer and cut it. After the strips have been cut, it is necessary to process the edges, clean out the burrs and small irregularities. Glue stripes in the central part
ship one to one to the bow and to the back of the ship with an overlap. Preliminary prayers with fresh glue of the place of gluing. Here's what we got. Now we will clean everything up and proceed to the manufacture of additional decks. The front part of the deck starts from the beginning of the rounding and protrudes by 3 cm. The width of the bow is 9 cm. The width of the part from the rounding is 16.6 cm. After gluing, it will be processed, rounded and will be equal to the width of the main deck.
The back part also starts from the rounding, it is equal to 16.6 cm, protrudes by 4 cm. The width of the back part is 9.5 cm. The additional decks are now glued in the current order (you can also glue them with an iron).
We glue the front of the deck first. Then we fan it. After that, we veneer the main deck before rounding and installing the back of the additional deck. Next, glue the back. It can not be veneered as it is covered with deck superstructures. The decks are glued, rounded off and we proceed to the manufacture of the sides of the rear of the model. We cut off two strips 4 cm wide. You will determine the length yourself. Starting from the point of curvature. The back of the board has a deployed
angle 105 degrees. After the strips are cut out, we make cuts on them in the place where they will be
bend along the contour of the deck and smear with glue. The glue has dried, we begin to veneer. We cut two strips of veneer in width and glue them with an iron, while bending them along the contour of the deck. The side boards are done, but since they need to be deployed, we carefully grind them at an angle, trying them on to the deck. Then we glue them. Making the back of the board will not be difficult for you. Next, we move on to
deck superstructure at the rear of the model. The photo shows how it looks. The superstructure deck configuration must be integral. A little explanation for the photo. Side
the pads should be 1.5 cm longer towards the back of the model. After we made the deck, we make an insert with windows and other inserts in the openings for the stairs. When we have all the inserts ready and fitted, we glue them to the deck and then glue the deck itself. The deck was glued and after that we veneer it. Next, we make the following sides of the deck superstructure and an insert with windows. The back of the sides will no longer be deployed, but at a right angle. After the last deck was made, glued and veneered, we make
final boards. With the rear deck superstructure finished, we move on to the bow of the model. We also do the front sides with
angle of 115 degrees. They also start from the beginning of the additional deck. The boards were installed and glued. We proceed to the manufacture of an insert with windows and top platform. Top platform dimensions. Length 15 cm, (excluding the balcony) the width of the front part is 12 cm. It protrudes 6 cm. The back part of the platform is slightly wider than the sides by about 7-8 mm on each side. After we made a platform and an insert with windows, we glue them. Then we veneer the site. Next, we make the sides of the central part of the model. Cut off 2 strips, veneer them on the inside, mark
cannon ports and cut through them. The port size is 1.5 cm by 1.5 cm. The gap between the ports is also 1.5 cm. The ports are 5-6 mm above the deck level.
With the sides finished, we proceed to veneer the outer part of the ship. After veneering the ship, we make ladders. With the ladders finished, we move on to the railing. Strip mode 4 mm wide. We veneer them from three sides, glue them 1 mm away from the edge, sawing them down. Next, we mark them out and drill holes for installing pilasters under the railings themselves. After that, we make the railing ourselves. The same strip mode but only the edges are veneered. A little trick. The photo shows that the corner pilasters are slightly higher than the rest. This is to make marking easier.
They drilled a hole, tried it on a pilaster, marked the rest of the points for the pilasters. Once all railings are in place. Cut off the excess, clean and
veneer. We do the same in the bow of the ship. Next, we veneere the edges of the sides of the ship and clean the entire ship. We proceed to the marking and installation of masts. The length of the masts is up to you. The diameter of the mast at the bottom is 10-12 mm. At the top 4-5 mm. To be able to drill a hole for installing a flagpole from a toothpick. The ship is completely ready and we proceed to its staining. We fix those parts that you consider necessary. Finished with the stain. We make 2 additional fastenings for ropes (photo 24) and two blocks for raising the sails (photo 25). It remains to varnish the model, make the sails, and then install them. For sails, we need material, a piece of drawing paper for a pattern, wooden round skewers and the nearest workshop for tailoring and repairing clothes. I hope you cope with the manufacture and installation of sails.



Sailing ships are divided into frigates and battleships. The most powerful three-masted ships are battleships, which are characterized by displacement, armament and crew strength.

This class of sailboats dates back to the seventeenth century, with the advent of artillery (cannons), able to conduct a linear battle (simultaneously from all onboard guns from the side line).
In an abbreviated version, they are called "battleships".





Drawings of models can be downloaded for free, on the website or from other sources.

In May 1715, the Russian cannon battleship 3rd rank Ingermanland (64 guns) was launched from the Admiralty shipyard in St. Petersburg. Peter I himself took part in the development of his drawings. The battleship had impressive dimensions for that time: length - 52m; width - 14m; hold depth - 6m. Peter's golden standard flew up from his mast. This ship was long time flagship of the Russian fleet.

Ship ranks in the sailing fleet:

  • The first rank is a three-decade or four-decade, the largest sailing ship(from sixty to one hundred and thirty guns).
  • The second rank is three-deck (a ship with three decks) (from forty to ninety-eight guns).
  • The third rank is two-deck (from thirty to eighty-four guns).
  • The fourth rank is two-decker (from twenty to sixty guns).

L "Artemise



L "Artemis was a cannon frigate of the French fleet. The class of the frigate Magicienne, weight 600 tons, 32 guns on board, of which 26 were twelve-pound long guns and 6 were six-pound ones. The frigate was laid down in Toulon in December 1791. It had a length of 44 meters 20 centimeters .

Frigates were called military one-deck or two-deck three-masted ships. They differed from battleships in their smaller size. Their purpose is a cruising service, reconnaissance (long-range), a surprise attack on an object with the aim of further capture or destruction. The largest models were called linear frigates. According to statistics, more frigate models are downloaded for free than battleships.

You can create a model of an old ship yourself without buying finished structure for assembly. In order for the result to turn out to be of high quality, you will have to show a lot of patience and perseverance.

materials

To make a historic ship with your own hands, prepare:

  • plywood or cork;
  • thin strips of wood, bamboo or rattan;
  • wood glue;
  • paper;
  • pencil.

In this model of the ship, not plywood, but cork wood was used as the basis. The choice was due to the ease of working with the material. Unlike plywood, where you need a saw for cutting, with cork everything was done with a simple sharp knife. You can also take thin strips for work from any material, they just need to bend well. Joiner's glue should not be replaced with either hot or even super glue.

Step 1. On paper, you need to draw the main details of the future ship. You can also print them if you find layouts suitable for you on the Internet. Please note that your ideas may change slightly during the course of work. This is not critical if you just want to build an old-style ship, and not repeat an exact copy of a particular ship.

Step 2. For convenience, work with the ship was divided into several parts. The ship itself was also assembled. Most of the time was taken by the manufacture of the central part of the ship. Then the front, back and deck parts with the mast were made.

Step 3. First of all, according to the already existing sketches, make the skeleton of the ship. Be sure to make sure that all of its edges are symmetrical. If there is a slight deviation somewhere, correct these flaws. Check that the ribs are exactly at an angle of 90 degrees when attaching.

Step 4. After the skeleton is ready, start decorating its side parts. To do this, glue a long rail along the center line of the side part. Focus on it further when you glue the rest. Reiki is better to stick in stages to make your work easier. Apply enough glue, but make sure that it does not flow down the slats. Fasten the rails additionally with clamps, leaving them in this form until the glue dries completely. After the glue has dried, remove the clamps and continue gluing the rails in the next section.

Step 5. All places where gaps form between the rails, work with epoxy. All the details of the ship, as soon as you are ready, cover with varnish for wood.

Step 6. After the main work, proceed to the finish. You can hide all possible aesthetic flaws at this stage. To do this, carefully glue the rails over the places with obvious defects to hide them. From rattan, you can make a horizontal line that emphasizes the smooth forms of the ship. The base of the ship is ready.

Step 7. Masts must be made from wooden rods and small flat pieces of wood. There will be two masts in the ship. Adjust the rods in advance to the calculated dimensions. To attach the masts, cut out two pieces of wood measuring 4 x 2 cm. Drill holes in them for the mast rods. From small rods, make a reinforcing lattice and assemble the entire structure completely.

Step 8. Make a template for the deck of a ship out of paper and build a deck part from wooden strips based on it. After letting it dry thoroughly, drill holes for attaching the masts. Insert and glue the masts. From plywood, make the side rails of the ship.

Step 9. Glue the wooden strips on the front and back of the ship in the same way. They need to be glued on the side and in the deck part, and rods and handrails should be made from pieces of plywood. All parts are fastened with carpentry glue. Do not forget to raise the back of the ship with steps.

In modeling, plywood is the most popular material. This is due to high quality indicators, as well as ease of operation. Plywood sheets are very easy to cut, quite simply processed. Using a suitable scheme (drawing), you can make ships out of plywood with your own hands.

Plywood is a versatile material that is easy to cut and process. different ways, therefore, it is with plywood patterns that it is recommended to start your acquaintance with modeling.

Building a ship on your own is quite an interesting activity. But in order to start performing complex models, you need to practice on easier ones.

Materials and tools

To create stucco patterns on board the ship, you need to prepare your own composition from which reliefs can be formed. For the solution, it is necessary to prepare the following tools and materials:

  • wood dust;
  • PVA glue (on average, one ship model can take about half a liter of glue);
  • plasticine to create small irregularities and patterns;

Materials and tools that are used during ship modeling:

Birch plywood will ensure a minimum number of chips when sawing.

  • plywood of the required thickness;
  • Super glue;
  • sandpaper for surface treatment;
  • kapron thread;
  • jigsaw for cutting parts;
  • construction knife;
  • mast wood. It is better to use pine, as it is much easier to process;
  • dye;
  • small brushes;
  • Chinese sticks;
  • fabric for sails;
  • a thread;
  • pencil ruler.

Modeling wood should be soft, not fibrous. The most popular option is cedar, linden, walnut. All wooden blanks must be perfectly smooth, without knots and damage. It can be used as additional element to create decorative pieces. Also, wood can be used to create the main elements of the model, such as the deck, hull.

Plywood in modeling is the most demanded material. In such a direction as modeling, birch or balsa plywood is most often used. This is due to the fact that these types of wood practically do not give chips during sawing. To make a boat out of plywood, you need to use sheets with a thickness of 0.8-2 mm.

A simple diagram of a plywood ship model.

Veneer is a sheet material, very thin, made of precious wood. In most cases, veneer is used as facing material. They paste over products that are made of inexpensive material.

Fasteners will perform not only the main task of fastening parts, but also perform a decorative role. To create a boat model, you need to prepare thin chains (several sizes can be used), laces, threads, copper or brass studs. In order to transfer the drawing from sheet to plywood, it is best to use tracing paper and a pencil. So the drawing will turn out detailed. Glue must be used to fasten the plywood parts. Fine detailing can be made by metal casting, use polymer clay or independently prepare a solution of wood dust and PVA glue. After complete drying, such a mass is very durable, and it can be painted in the desired color.

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Preparatory work

If you are modeling a plywood ship for the first time, it is recommended to purchase kits in which all the details are already cut and processed. But its cost can sometimes be quite high. Therefore, with great desire and diligence, experience can be gained in the process of assembling your ship. Modeling, like any other type of work, necessarily begins with the preparatory stage. The first thing to start with is what kind of ship will be modeled. To begin with, it is worth looking at various drawings and finished works, this will greatly facilitate the choice of model.

Having studied the drawing completely, it is worth checking the presence of all necessary materials and tools to get the job done. Modeling ships is a jewelry business. It takes a lot of time and perseverance.

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to make paper or cardboard templates for all the details. After that, they are all transferred to plywood. At this preparatory stage of work can be considered completed.

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Parts manufacturing

In order to make all the details, cut them out of a plywood sheet, you must use the appropriate tool. You can use a manual jigsaw for work, but if possible, it is better to use an electric model version. Using the second option will significantly reduce the time to manufacture all the elements. This is especially true for the smallest details.

Sawn blanks are processed with a file, removing chips and burrs.

In order to cut the part, a hole is made in the plywood into which the jigsaw file is located. It is worth cutting out all the details very carefully, while observing all the contour boundaries, since inaccurately cut details can then ruin appearance the entire ship. Each sawn workpiece must be processed with a file from the ends. In the process of such cleaning, it is necessary to remove a small part of the chamfer where chips and burrs have formed. When cutting, this moment cannot be avoided.

It is necessary to assemble the ship when all the details are cut out and the ends are processed. This will allow you to do assembly work without being distracted by cutting out the missing parts.