Actinidia Kolomikta: the secrets of agricultural technology, reproduction

My favorite actinidia

In the autumn of 1990, she acquired 4 seedlings of actinidia kolomikta, of which 3 were female and 1 male. The seedlings were 2 years old, had a good fibrous root system. Our dacha was only 2 years old at the time. We chose a landing site along the fence on the southwestern side of the site. They planted at a distance of 1.5 m from the fence and also 1.5 m between plants. In the year of planting, the seedlings were covered with spruce branches for the winter. The seedlings overwintered well and in the first year they gave a good increase, and since this is a liana, we put a temporary support. More actinidia was not removed from the support and was not covered for the winter. On the 3rd year, a permanent support was installed, which is a wall of 4 vertical pipes 3 m high and 4 horizontal beams.

In the early years, they guided the vine along the support and formed bushes. We do pruning and shaping at the beginning of summer, after the end of sap flow. We cut off thickened or damaged shoots, shorten the unripened tops of growths. We do not dig in the plants, but sprinkle them with humus, since the roots are located close to the surface.

In the early years, fertilizers were applied - in early spring complex mineral fertilizer, autumn- superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ash.

Now, when our actinidia is a powerful wall of shoots intertwined with each other, about 4 meters high and at least 1.5 m wide, sparrows fertilize it. In spring and autumn, hordes of these birds settle in it. In the actinidia we set up two titmouses, in which sparrows also live. Birds do not touch the berries. The soil underneath became very loose. Actinidia Kolomikta loves humid air, therefore, especially on hot days, we water it by sprinkling, but not the leaves, but inside the vines.

In all these years, she never got sick. Honeysuckle bushes were planted in front of the actinidia, which shade it from below.

In the 3rd year after planting, actinidia began to bloom and pleased with the first berries.

Actinidia Kolomikta blooms from June 1 to June 5, when honeysuckle begins to sing. You enter the dacha and you feel a subtle, unique, exotic aroma. After flowering in male (mostly) plants, part of the leaves, most often from the top and on the sunny side, acquires a soft pink tone, eventually increasing to bright crimson. This unusual transformation greatly adorns actinidia and our garden.

In 2002, when the air was -7°C on May 13, the leaves and flower buds turned black and fell off. But after the frost, new leaves and color appeared. The crop was not affected.

This year, two buckets of excellent berries were collected from 3 bushes of actinidia, not counting the crumbled ones. Her only flaw- berries ripen gradually and crumble. Actinidia ripens in early September. We collect it in one go, scatter it in a dark, cool place, and the berries ripen in 2-3 days. Ripe fruits are sweet, juicy, tender, with a strong aroma of pineapple. Actinidia is good both fresh and frozen, we prepare compotes and “raw” jam.

In our garden, actinidia is the most beautiful and beloved culture.

Maya Georgievna Fedorkova , Samara

How to determine the sex of actinidia?

Somehow I bought several actinidia seedlings on the market. In the 4th year they bloomed. They bloom profusely, but there are no berries. Damage by pests and diseases is not visible. Liana is already four meters in height. What's the matter? Elena Stepanova, Samara.

Actinidia- the plant is dioecious (dioecious), represented by male and female individuals. It can be assumed that you grow vines of one sex, and for fruiting it is necessary to plant seedlings of the other sex.

How to determine gender, you ask? Only in the structure of flowers. In female plants, the flowers are solitary, with a large upper ovary, pistil and numerous stamens with sterile pollen. In males, they are located in the leaf axils in the form of inflorescences of 2-3 or more flowers with well-developed stamens and no pistils. Pollination occurs with the help of wind and insects. Several plants need to be grown on the site. The optimal ratio is at least 2 male copies for 5-7 female ones. If one male plant dies, the second will replace it.

Tamara Alexandrova Yudina , head department of horticulture

Rules for rooting Actinidia Kolomikta

The rooting process of actinidia proceeds relatively easily: cuttings, layering, dividing the bush; with and without stimulants. In the year of rooting, segments of shoots almost do not form increments: mostly 3-5, rarely 10 cm. A month later (in August) they form weak roots and give small increments. Immediately after rooting, having an unbranched root system, they are only 70-80% ready for transplantation. This means that out of 10 transplanted plants, only 7-8 take root in a new place. If we postpone the process of transplanting cuttings rooted in the first year until the natural fall of the leaves (in October), then this percentage increases to 90-95. 95 percent means that along with the 9 strong surviving plants, the 10th weakened one may or may not survive. When transplanted at the age of two (shoot growth up to 50 cm), almost all actinidia rooted in this way survive, by 98-100%.

In practice, this means: 9 - take root easily, 10th- having been ill, it also takes root, but it grows slower than the others in the year of planting. How better conditions when transplanted, the more likely the 10th weakened plant (and other similar plants that make up 10% of the rest) will survive.

What factors determine these conditions in the cold autumn winter period? To begin with, frosts down to -40 ° C after natural leaf fall are not terrible for actinidia. Only good drainage (from getting wet), an excess of organic matter and partial shade (from the sun) matter. In a relatively open sun, shading of the lower basal part of actinidia is mandatory. Depending on the soil conditions, these rules, even within the same Samara region, should be adjusted. For example, in the southern part of the region (the region of Samara, Kinel, Chapaevsk, etc., where heavy loamy soils predominate), drainage is needed. For this purpose, sand (preferably coarse-grained river sand) can be used, which is mixed with this soil and with well-rotted organic matter.- manure or compost (take equal parts). In the north (Tolyatti region, Kurumoch village, Semeikino village, Sokskiye dachas, etc., light loamy and sandy loamy soils predominate) you can do without sand. Here they are limited only to the introduction of organic matter (1 part of humus and 2 parts of soil). However, in such conditions of good natural drainage, soil moisture should be carefully controlled. A good result is given by systematic (2-3 times per summer) mulching (covering) of the root zone with any compost (from above, all this can be covered with sawdust). It is impossible to overmoisten, otherwise actinidia may die from wetting the root system.

Gennady Ivanovich Sobolev , Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Samara

Actinidia Kolomikta from seeds

Cold period of the year- nai the best time for stratification- seedbed preparation perennials. I will stop at one- perennial liana actinidia kolomikte.

Unfortunately, it is not yet easy to purchase actinidia seedlings. However, it is not difficult to grow full-fledged plants from seeds. In addition, seedlings better adapt to local climatic conditions, unlike seedlings brought from other regions. Seeds require stratification.

I propose a method for its implementation.

Seeds of ripened berries should be poured into a nylon bag and placed in a 0.5-liter jar, half filled with well-washed, calcined in the oven and slightly (!) Moistened sand. Cover with a lid with holes and refrigerate (temperature from +2 to +5°C) for 3.5 months. Every 10-12 days, the bag of seeds should be taken out of the sand and ventilated. If mold appears, then rinse the seeds in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, sterilize the sand and continue stratification again.

Then sow the seeds in a box- a greenhouse to put on the south windowsill. The composition of the soil in the box: equal amounts of sand, forest land, well-rotted mullein and peat. Sowing depth 1-2 mm. Watering warm water 1 time per week. In the phase of 3-4 leaves, the plants should be gradually hardened, slightly opening the greenhouse.

Hardened seedlings should be planted in the ground in early June, after the threat of frost has passed.

Ryapolov I.D. , Kursk

Stranger Actinidia Kolomikta

For the broad masses of gardeners, actinidia still continues to be a curiosity. But it is not only tasty, but also a very valuable food culture. In addition to a set of vitamins, it contains a number of biologically active substances, including the enzyme actinidin, which promotes the digestion of meat and other products. The aroma of actinidia fruits may resemble strawberries, bananas, watermelons, apples, but most often- a pineapple.

In Russia, mainly actinidia kolomikta and its hybrids are cultivated. Why is this species so popular with us? Yes, because it is the most winter-hardy and unpretentious. But at the same time, its fruits are small, weighing 1.5-4 g (in cultivars- up to 7-8 g), are prone to strong shedding. Bushes of medium height, the yield is negligible.

Another type of actinidia- argument- is a very vigorous climber. It grows mainly in the Primorsky Territory and Sakhalin, in the climatic conditions of central Russia it freezes to the level of snow.

“Chicks” kiwi

Breeders thought about how to improve the nutritional and commercial qualities of actinidia fruits at the beginning of the last century. The result was the plant we all know well as the kiwi. By the way, the kiwi bird- emblem of New Zealand.

Actinidia breeding work was also carried out in our country, and they continue to this day. In Moscow, a number of varieties of actinidia kolomikta were obtained. The novelties were distinguished by rather large fruits with good palatability.

But even more promising were the works of the Kyiv scientist, candidate of biological sciences I. Shaitan. He conducted experiments on interspecific crossing of actinidia kolomikta, argutta and purple. New hybrid varieties- September, Kyiv hybrid, Kyiv large-fruited (anniversary), Purple garden, Curly. True, they turned out to be less winter-hardy than kolomikta, but in culture they also withstand frosts down to -30 ... 35 ° C. At the same time, they are distinguished by high growth vigor, large-fruitedness (fruit weight from 8 to 25 g), good taste and high yield. Today they are the most promising for cultivation in central Russia.

"Emerald" liana

In 1989, after stratification, I sowed the seeds of the Kyiv hybrid and Kyiv large-fruited. Of course, hybrids do not transmit maternal properties to their “children” during seed reproduction. However, the results made me happy.

Of the six plants, two turned out to be “muzhiks”, the rest, of course,- "young ladies". The males differed from others in their great strength of growth, gray shoots and dark green glossy leaves.

Of the four female vines, one has grown to be the tallest and most “prolific”. Berries are large (weighing 9-10 g), Green colour, with a strong smell of pineapple. I named this actinidia Emerald .

Another "sister" is very similar to the first, only the fruits are smaller. But the third one has berries weighing 14-15 g, green, with a pink tint. The flesh is also pink, with a taste reminiscent of pineapple. The bushes themselves, however, turned out to be less vigorous. The yield is very high, the fruits ripen a little later than other seedlings. I named this variety Super. The fourth “young lady” turned out to be even less vigorous. And her yield is lower than others. Berries weighing 7-8 g, bright pink, sweet, without aroma. This actinidia was named Ruby. In all vines, the fruits "keep well done." But when fully ripe, some of them still begin to crumble. However, with the exception of Ruby. This berry does not fall off at all, even after the plant sheds all the leaves. It is at this moment that it is best to harvest the rubies.

10 years later

It was not by chance that I indicated the year in which I sowed seedlings of hybrid actinidia. After all, more than 10 years have passed since then. It's time to take stock.

The first thing I note- creepers on my site never froze, despite low temperatures air in winter. True, I place plantings only in low-ventilated places in the garden, under the protection of buildings. Plants planted on summer cottages on the banks of the Volga, where in winter they blow strong winds freeze to the level of snow.

Actinidia tolerates summer heat well. But in very dry periods, her leaves may lose turgor. After all, the bulk of the roots of the plant is in the surface layer of the soil. Therefore, daily watering is required in the heat. It is better to spend them in the late afternoon, irrigating the crown and the near-trunk circle. It is also a good idea to mulch the latter with half-rotted leaf humus or other improvised material and shade it with shields. I install shields made of slate or picket fence 1-1.2 m high at right angles to each other in the direction from north to south. The soil is best watered by drip.

Actinidia, especially young ones, are quite sensitive to spring frosts. Due to the very early sap flow, their bark can crack in the lower part of the trunk when the juice freezes. To delay sap flow, shields that shade the near-trunk circle in summer are also left for the winter. In spring, the snow in the shade melts more slowly, and the vines will “sleep” longer.

Chunky "men"

When planting actinidia, it should be noted that this plant does not tolerate stagnation melt water: freezing in winter, they can damage the bark. Therefore, seedlings are best placed on a small, barely noticeable mound or slope (preferably northern).

hybrid actinidia- very vigorous climber. For normal development, it needs a strong support. For this purpose, you can use a trellis 2-3 m high, but it is not very convenient to harvest from it. It is better to grow actinidia in a gallery, the height of which should be optimal- with the expectation that when collecting fruits do not use stepladders. Instead of such a gallery, you can use a gazebo or a canopy over the parking lot.

Many gardeners believe that actinidia does not need pruning or shaping. From my own experience, I have found that this is not the case. In the absence of annual pruning, fruitful vines quickly go to the periphery of the bush, and perennial wood is exposed.

Forming and pruning actinidia is similar to that of vigorous grapes, but much easier. In autumn, after the end of the growing season, broken, underdeveloped and thickening branches are cut out. All annual shoots are cut to 50-70 cm, since all the fruit buds of the plant are located within this length. Keep in mind that actinidia cannot be cut in the spring. Otherwise, she will “cry” bitterly, that is, sap will flow from the wounds.

Pruning actinidia also depends on its gender. "Men" are circumcised more than "women". As a result, the bushes become shorter and stockier. The main purpose of such pruning is to provide female vines with pollen in sufficient quantities. For the same reason, “muzhiks” are planted separately from females, at a distance of 5-10 m from the latter. And preferably from the side where the wind blows. So that, therefore, he helped actinidia multiply. One male liana will pollinate 3-5 female ones.

The best way to propagate varietal actinidia- green cuttings. At the same time, all varietal characteristics are preserved. Plants begin to bear fruit at 4-5 years. Lignified autumn cuttings do not take root. By sowing seeds, you will receive seedlings with completely new properties. Sometimes they are superior to the mother, but more often- yield to them. For sowing, only seeds of the last harvest are used, which must undergo a 2-month stratification. Germination is high, but about half or even slightly more seedlings will male. "Peasants" at first can be recognized only by more intensive growth. More reliable information about gender can be obtained only after 5-6 years, during the flowering period. Male plants bloom, as a rule, a year earlier than female ones. And their flowers are collected in large brushes. Whereas on the female lianas the flowers “sit in splendid isolation” or in pairs or threes. In the center of such a flower is the future green ovary.

Pineapple flavor

Actinidia Kolomikta- very tasty and useful berry. It is better to eat it raw to avoid loss of vitamins and nutrients. You can also make raw jam from its berries.

I do it like this. I lay out freshly picked fruits in 1-2 layers on a baking sheet. There they lie for a day or two until fully ripened. Then I wash them, cut off the stalks and tails. I put a small amount of berries in an enameled cup, knead them well with a wooden pusher. I transfer the liquid mass into an enameled basin. I'm taking the next batch. When everything is mashed, I add sugar (1-1.2 kg per 1 kg of berries). Mix everything well and leave for a day for complete dissolution of sugar. I keep it in the refrigerator.

Raw jam from actinidia Kolomikta is very pleasant to the taste, besides it has a strong pineapple aroma. So, you have a chance to pleasantly surprise your family and guests by serving this dish to the New Year's table.

Olga Pavlovna Andrianova , Saratov

Each type of actinidia has its own specific seasonal rhythm. Vegetation different types starts and ends at different times. The duration and timing of the growing season vary depending on the region, the nature of the weather conditions of the current and last year. Differences in the timing of the onset of individual phenophases in different years in one region is 2-10 days, in different regions within a month.

The beginning of the vegetation of actinidia is easily detected by a strong sap flow, called "weeping". This happens, as a rule, in mid-April, but can come much earlier (in the last decade of March) or later (at the end of April). Sap flow coincides with the beginning of thawing of the soil. The intensity of the outflow of juice is quite high, which is detected when the stem and branches are mechanically damaged. In the forest, sap flow in actinidia occurs faster than in culture. Thus, the duration of sap flow in the forest was on average 17 days for actinidia kolomikta, 20 days for actinidia arguta, and 21 days for actinidia polygamy. On the plantation, respectively, 20, 25 and 28 days.

The buds open 15-20 days after the start of sap flow. From the kidneys, completely or almost completely immersed in the tissue of swollen leaf cushions, a green cone appears. The appearance of this cone occurs through a hole in the leaf cushion, resembling a needle puncture in actinidia kolomikta and actinidia arguta, and a pinhead in actinidia polygamy. The exit of the green cone of leaves from the leaf cushion means the beginning of the bud break phase. This happens in the first decade of May and lasts for 2 weeks. The full phase of bud break from leaving the leaf cushion to full deployment lasts 3-3.5 weeks.

Full foliage of actinidia occurs at the end of May. At the same time, the phases of the beginning of budding and shoot growth begin. In the axils of the leaves at the base of the growing shoots, one can notice slowly increasing small green spherical buds.

Late spring frosts during the period of full leafing in some cases cause great harm to plants. Even a short-term drop in temperature to -1-1.5 ° C during this period leads to slight wilting of the leaves, which disappears with an increase in temperature. Stronger frosts (up to -3.5 ° C) can cause, along with the darkening of the leaves and short-term wilting of the shoots, the complete death of the buds. The division of vines according to the duration of growth of vegetative shoots during the growing season allows us to attribute actinidia kolomiktu to vines with a short growth period (60-100 days), and actinidia argutu and actinidia polygamus to vines with an average growth period (101-150 days). The duration of growth of shortened shoots is usually 4-6 times less than that of elongated shoots, and is 20-25 days for actinidia of all types. The growth of shoots stops when the tips of the shoots dry up by the end of summer. Continued growth of shoots for the next year occurs due to lateral buds located under the shrunken part of the last year's shoot.

The value of lignification of vegetative and mixed shoots by the end of the growing season is 75-100%, generative - 90-100%. The division of vines according to the growth rate of vegetative shoots makes it possible to attribute actinidia argutu to vines with the largest increment (over 4 m), actinidia kolomikta and actinidia polygam - to vines with a relatively small increment (less than 2.5 m). The growth rate of generative shoots in actinidia is small, differs slightly and amounts to 10-25 cm.

Actinidia flowering begins rather late, in the second decade of June, its duration is 5-10 days. At this time, the possibility of frost is already excluded. Actinidia kolomikta blooms first, June 20-25, then actinidia arguta, July 10-15, the last actinidia polygamum, July 20-25. Male flowers bloom first, after 1-2 days - bisexual. The flowering phase lasts about a week.

Actinidia growing in the forest bloom a week earlier than in cultivation. The entire period from the beginning of sap flow to the beginning of flowering is also shorter by a week, which is associated with a faster flow of sap flow in the forest.

The generative period of development from the beginning of flowering to the full ripening of fruits in each species of actinidia passes at the same time in the forest and in cultivation. Thus, for actinidia kolomikta and actinidia polygamy in the forest, this period was 82 days, for actinidia arguta - 88. On the plantation, this period increased to 83, 85 and 90 days, respectively.

After flowering, the perianths of the male flowers fall off (completely, without breaking up into lobes). Pedicels that remain on the shoots for some time also dry up and fall off. In bisexual flowers, the petals fall off alternately and separately and the fertilized ovary is exposed. In the absence of fertilization, the ovary stays on the shoot for 1-2 weeks, withers and dries up, and then completely separates from the shoot with the pedicel.

Ovary in actinidia, despite small size, is clearly visible in the flower, as it has an upper open position and a bright White color. After flowering, its white color turns into greenish, which makes the ovary difficult to see.

The fruiting phase of all actinidia is quite extended - 60-80 days, but ends before the autumn frosts. For actinidia kolomikta, the shortest period from flowering to the first ripened fruits, 55-60 days, is required, the longest period is required for actinidia argute, 70-75 days. Full formation of fruits in actinidia kolomikta in the last ten days of August, in actinidia arguta in the second decade of September and in actinidia polygamy in the third decade of September.

As it ripens, which lasts another 3-4 weeks, the color of the fruit changes, becomes darker, becomes transparent, and in actinidia polygamy it becomes yellow. Light longitudinal stripes are indicated on the surface of the skin. Inside the fruit, these stripes correspond to partitions between the seed chambers. The fruits become resiliently soft, the seeds turn brown. The beginning of fruit ripening is noted when 10% of the fruits enter this phase and lasts 1.5-2 weeks until the mass ripening phase.

Ripening of actinidia fruits begins in the third decade of August. Mass ripening occurs at the end of fruiting. The first, long before the onset of autumn frosts, the fruits of actinidia kolomikta ripen; their maturation is uneven and lasts 3 weeks. Having reached full ripeness, the fruits fall off. At the same time, the stalks remain on the plant for some time, then dry out and also fall off.

Fruit shedding can be avoided by harvesting them early (in the solid state) from the plant. In a ventilated room in the shade, they will ripen in 2-3 days and from a solid state they will pass into an elastically soft and soft one. During this period of ripening, the fruits do not lose quality and do not differ in taste from those ripened in nature. A longer ripening period, up to 12 days, drastically reduces the quality of fruits, their taste and aroma are lost, the fruits become watery and turn from a solid state into a pasty one. Actinidia fruits are highly susceptible to various odors, therefore, for their ripening, it is necessary to select a clean, dry and ventilated room. If these conditions are not observed, the same unpleasant transformations occur with the fruits as with too long a period of artificial ripening.

Under the conditions of industrial cultivation of actinidia on plantations, an extended fruiting period makes it difficult to sell the crop, so it is necessary to introduce varieties with the shortest possible fruiting period. For breeding on household plots it is advisable to use varieties with a long fruiting period. At the same time, fresh actinidia berries can be consumed for a longer period as they ripen.

The yield depends to a greater extent on the place where the vine grows. A bush of the Michurin variety Pineapple in slightly shaded growth conditions yields up to 5 kg, and in an open area a maximum of 2 kg. When translating these figures into an area of ​​1 ha, the yield of actinidia kolomikta is 1.5-2.5 t/ha. At the same time, some creepers, having a high yield in one year, give a lower one in the next, or vice versa. In addition to fluctuations in the size of the crop, there is a pronounced periodicity in the harvest, which is mainly inherent in vines that have a tendency to higher yields.

The fruits of actinidia arguta begin to ripen at the end of September, a month later than that of actinidia kolomikta. Unlike the fruits of actinidia kolomikta, they are larger, denser to the touch, firmly attached to the stalk. Sometimes its ripe berries are kept on the shoots not only until frost, but also until snowfalls. This happens especially often if actinidia arguta wraps around conifer tree and the fruits are under the protection of its crown. Frosts damage only fruits hanging outside the crown of the support tree. The fruits of actinidia arguta can be harvested unripe at the beginning of the ripening phase and left to ripen for 3-4 days, spreading in a thin layer in a place protected from sunlight.

The yield of actinidia arguta is much higher than that of other types of actinidia. According to literature data, in the conditions of the Far East, its maximum fruit yield is 15 kg per vine and can reach 50 kg in some cases. One large wild-growing specimen of actinidia arguta, growing on the territory of Gorzelenkhoz of Artem, had about 20 stems 2-4.5 cm thick, branching over an area of ​​40 m 2. Annually for a number of years it yielded at least 50 kg. In 1956, 150 kg of fruits were obtained from him.

Actinidia fruits are harvested as they ripen, but, as a rule, 3-5 days after the onset of ripening, in the presence of 10% of ripened fruits. With an average yield in fairly dense thickets, one person collects up to 30 kg of fruit per day.

Actinidia polygama bears fruit the last of the wild-growing actinidia. This happens in the third decade of September - the first decade of October. Damage to unripe fruits by frost leads to a change in their elasticity and color. They become flabby, darker, dull, retain an unpleasant bitter burning taste, and are inedible. The same taste and appearance have fruits that are harvested unripe for ripening. Natural ripening of fruits occurs only in some years with a later onset of frost. Well-ripened fruits are dark orange, soft, fresh-sweet, having lost the burning-bitter taste characteristic of unripe fruits of this species.

Actinidia polygamum bears fruit almost annually. Fruit yield averages 1-2 kg per vine. The age of entry into the fruiting phase of actinidia ranges from 3-4 years for vegetatively propagated plants to 4-5 years for seedlings. The frequency of fruiting by years and the annual fluctuation in the size of the harvest of individual plants are noted.

The end of the growing season, which is indicated by yellowing and falling leaves, occurs in Actinidia simultaneously under natural conditions and at different times under introduction conditions. In Primorye, actinidia leaf fall begins simultaneously in late September - early October after the first autumn frosts. Premature fall of foliage is noted only in dense thickets of lianas. During the period of leaf fall, they are the first to acquire autumn color and the leaves fall in shading conditions, the illuminated leaves remain until frost. In the conditions of the north-west of the country and the Central Non-Chernozem region, leaf fall in actinidia kolomikta begins long before the onset of frost, usually in September, and ends in October; in actinidia arguta, a few days after the autumn change in leaf color, their fall begins, which ends in mid-October; in actinidia polytama, leaf fall also begins a little later than the autumn change in leaf color (in mid-September) and ends at the end of October.

Autumn frosts most often damage the shoots of actinidia polygamy, since the shoots that appear late do not have time to become woody. The shoots of actinidia kolomikta and actinidia arguta suffer less from frost: these species end their vegetation earlier and have more conditions for the timely preparation of shoots for winter.

The total duration of the period of active life of actinidia from the beginning of sap flow to the end of leaf fall in all species under conditions of natural growth is the same and close to 180 days, in the north-west it is 180-190 days, in the Central Non-Chernozem region (Moscow) 155-175 days.

The total duration of the period from the beginning of bud break to the beginning of the ripening of actinidia fruits is 105-160 days and differs in individual species of this plant: in actinidia kolomikta - up to 110 days, actinidia arguta - 140 days, actinidia polygamy - more than 160 days.

The duration of the period from the beginning of sap flow to the full ripening of fruits, depending on growth in the forest or in culture, differs slightly: in actinidia kolomikta in the forest and on the plantation, it is 147 and 152 days, respectively, in actinidia arguta 173 and 175 days, in actinidia polygamy 182- 183 days.

All actinidia berries are similar in shape and taste, and may vary in color and sugar content. But the berries of all types of actinidia are very useful in terms of the content of vitamin C and trace elements.

But they love to use them not only for the content of vitamins, but also for their resemblance to exotic ones. Therefore, they are consumed fresh, but with a large harvest they make blanks in a cold way.

Actinidia kolomikta berries

Kiwi fruits are emerald green, oblong, large, the size of a large gooseberry and weighing up to 4g. Kiwi berries are very sweet with a sugar content of 4.4%, acidity of 2%, with a pleasant smell of pineapple, although they look like kiwi, ripen in August. In the nature of the Far East, the fruits of actinidia are more similar in taste to gooseberries, which is why the locals call it the Far Eastern gooseberry.

Actinidia arguta

Motherland Far East of our country, China, Korea, Japan. Powerful tall liana with a thick trunk and shoots up to 20 meters, frost-resistant. In nature, such a liana lives up to 100 years. It blooms in early summer, the flowers are large, kiwi fruits up to 3 cm long ripen in September, have a bright pronounced taste pineapple. Actinidia arguta has a high yield, in some years it is possible to collect up to 50 kg of fruit from one creeper. The berries of actinidia arguta are dark green in color with a strong and delicate aroma, have a pleasant sweetish taste, sometimes cloyingly sweet taste. Sugar they contain up to 12% -16% with an acidity of 3%. Dried berries of actinidia arguta resemble raisins.

Actinidia polygamy

When mature it is bright orange. They are also sweet, they contain up to 8-9% sugar with an acidity of only 1.5-1.6%. But it's only as sweet when it's ripe. The unripe fruits of actinidia polygamy have a burning bitter taste, have a burning sensation like a hot pepper. The superiority over the fruits of other types of actinidia is that the fruits of polygamy contain 1.5 times more carotene than blackcurrant, in addition, they contain a large amount of vitamin C and trace elements.

actinidia chinensis

Chinese actinidia (chinensis) or kiwi, a cultivated plant in China, came to us from there. It has hairy leaves and fruits. The fruits are pubescent, green, large, outwardly reminiscent of kiwi, but the taste is the same as that of actinidia kolomikta. The fruit must be peeled when consumed.

Harvesting actinidia berries

The ripening of actinidia fruits is not simultaneous, which allows them to be consumed fresh longer. But on the other hand, it also creates inconvenience when harvesting these fruits, and it is also possible that the fruits fall off quickly. Also, the fruit is not subject to long-term storage, quickly deteriorate. Therefore, it is necessary to collect fruits in a timely manner, choosing ripe ones from vines and immediately process them or use them fresh. Of course, fresh actinidia berries will bring more benefits, but if there are too many of them, then actinidia blanks can be made.

Actinidia is harvested only in a cold way without heat treatment in order to preserve as many vitamins and nutrients as possible.

Actinidia juice

Juice from actinidia is isolated in a cold way, you can use a small press to squeeze. The berries are very juicy, so the juice stands out easily and there is almost no squeeze left. Juice must be pasteurized in an enameled container under a lid, heated to 80 degrees. Quickly pour into prepared jars and seal tightly .

Actinidia sprinkled with sugar

To harvest actinidia berries for the future, they must be washed and dried, then put in a jar, sprinkled with sugar at a rate of 1: 1. Keep refrigerated.

Cold actinidia jam

You can make cold jam from actinidia fruits. To do this, the berries must be crushed and mixed with sugar at the rate of 1: 1.5. Put in jars and seal with paper. Keep refrigerated.

Actinidia jam

Actinidia berries are very juicy, so the jam is larger, it will resemble a “five-minute” or compote. The berries should be washed and put into a bowl for cooking jam, covered with sugar. Put 500 g of sugar per kilogram of berries, let stand until the juice stands out. Then bring to a boil and cook for 15 minutes. Pour hot jam into prepared jars and seal.

Actinidia belongs to the genus of tree vines and the Actinidia family. Under natural conditions, this vine can be found in the Himalayas, in Southeast Asia and on Far East. China is considered to be the birthplace of actinidia. As many people know, the closest relative of actinidia is kiwi, but kiwi does not grow with us, it freezes, which cannot be said about actinidia. At one time, around 1910, Ivan Vladimirovich Michurin literally fell in love with actinidia. He was engaged in this culture all his life and praised actinidia so much that he considered such crops as gooseberries and grapes to be secondary and requiring replacement with actinidia.

Currently, actinidia is grown mostly in private sector gardens. There are no industrial plantations occupied by this crop in Russia. In culture, you can often find types of actinidia - argut, polygam, Giraldi and kolomikta, as well as a hybrid. Most of the space is occupied by actinidia kolomikta, because this species is characterized by high winter hardiness and relative undemanding to growing conditions, it is also grown in the center of Russia and actinidia arguta and polygamous.

The main differences between the types of actinidia

Actinidia kolomikta (Actinidia kolomikta) - a liana up to ten meters long with a trunk diameter of only 2-3 cm. Variegation is clearly visible: the tip of the leaf changes color from snow-white at the beginning of summer to bright crimson at the end. The flowers of this species are very fragrant. Fruit weight up to 6 g.

Actinidia acute, or Actinidia arguta (Actinidia arguta) - this is the most powerful vine, can grow up to three tens of meters. In perennial plants, wild nature trunk diameter reaches 20 cm. The plant is dioecious (male and female individuals grow separately). The fruits reach a mass of 6 g, ripen towards the end of September.

Actinidia polygamous (Actinidia polygama) - reaches a length of five meters. Stem diameter 2-3 cm. Fruit weight up to 3 g. Often confused with actinidia kolomikta, but polygama is less winter-hardy.

actinidia giraldi (Actinidia arguta var. giraldii) - similar to actinidia argut, but has larger and more palatable fruits. In nature, these plants are extremely difficult to find.

Actinidia purpurea (Actinidia arguta var. purpurea) - named for the purple color of the fruit. The main disadvantage is that it is practically not winter-hardy. The fruits are maroon, weighing about 5.0 g.

Actinidia Hybrid- This is a hybrid of arguta and actinidia purpurea. It turned out a winter-hardy hybrid with large fruits.

Currently, actinidia: Giraldi, purple and hybrid in plant taxonomy are considered to be subspecies of Actinidia arguta (Actinidia arguta)

Description of actinidia

As we already know, actinidia is a liana, it has bizarre leaf blades, usually thin and leathery, very interestingly colored. At the beginning of summer, about a third of the leaf at the tip is white, as if immersed in white paint, during the season this place turns pink. Scientists have found that in this way actinidia attracts pollinators to its flowers, which, by the way, have a unique, simply magical aroma (especially in actinidia kolomikta), somewhat reminiscent of the smell of jasmine, but only more “sweet”. The stems and shoots of actinidia are quite thin, they require mandatory support, otherwise they will spread along the ground, thicken and lose their decorative look. The buds of actinidia are interesting, they are hidden in the scars of the leaf blades and turned down with the tip.

Boy or girl?

Actinidia is a dioecious plant, that is, one plant can have both male and female flowers, like sea buckthorn flowers. Therefore, in order to get a crop, representatives of both sexes of actinidia must be planted on the site. There are, however, individuals that have both male and female flowers, but it’s not worth the risk, it’s better when choosing planting material trust the professionals. You can understand what gender the actinidia seedling is in front of you, only during the flowering period, by carefully examining the flowers: female specimens usually do not have stamens, while male specimens do not have a pistil. There are, however, female flowers that have stamens, but they are poorly developed, have sterile (non-viable) pollen, while the pistil is much better developed.

Actinidia flowers are formed in the axils of leaf blades. During the flowering period, it is not always possible to notice the flowers, they seem to be hidden under the leaves. Sometimes, in order to see a flower or make a spectacular shot, you need to lift part of the vine. The flowering of actinidia is quite long, but it depends on the weather: if it is hot, then the flowers delight the eye for no more than a week, if it is cool, then the flowering is brighter, the aroma is strong, and it lasts 10-12 days. After pollination, the ovary begins to develop, which eventually turns into small actinidia fruits. elongated shape and most often a rich green color.

The fruits of actinidia ripen towards the end of summer - the beginning of autumn, when fully ripe they soften and can be eaten. The taste is reminiscent of something between kiwi and strawberries, sometimes there is a pronounced strawberry aroma. Each berry is a storehouse of vitamins and minerals, but there is especially a lot of ascorbic acid in the fruits of actinidia - up to 3000 mg%, which is close in terms to rose hips.

Planting actinidia

Actinidia can be planted both in spring and autumn, but given the southern roots of this plant, it is still preferable to do this in spring. For planting, we recommend choosing actinidia seedlings in the nursery that are at least two years old, the fact is that one-year-olds take root rather poorly and the older the seedling, the better. Ideally, it is better to buy a seedling with a closed root system that is three or four years old, the chance that it will take root is maximum in this case.

After you bought an actinidia seedling, you need to choose for it a good place for landing. It is better to choose the most open and well-lit place, even, without depressions and depressions, with a level ground water no closer than one and a half meters to the surface of the soil. Ideally, if on the north side of the actinidia plant the wall of the house or the fence will protect. Of course, you need to choose a place with the possibility of installing supports in the future, that is free space should be quite a lot. Considering the advice of professionals, you should not plant actinidia near large trees, such as apple trees, because the powerful root system of the tree will consume most of the moisture and nutrients from the soil and inhibit the vine. Actinidia can be planted next to shrubs, no one will be harmed by this.

As far as soil type is concerned, perfect option- this, of course, is loose, nutritious soil, with plenty of moisture and a neutral reaction.

Spring planting actinidia

So, spring is the best time to plant actinidia. Be sure to do this before bud break, otherwise the seedling may not take root. Before planting, the soil in the selected area must be dug up to a full bayonet of a shovel with a selection of weeds and incorporation into the soil of 2-3 kg of well-rotted manure or humus, 250-300 g of wood ash and a tablespoon of nitroammophoska. When the soil is ready, you can start digging planting holes. You need to dig them in accordance with the planting pattern, and it is determined by what kind you plant. If you place actinidia arguta on the site, a very vigorous liana that is by no means modest in size, then you can leave a meter and a half or better two free area between the pits, and if you plant actinidia kolomikta (polygam, Giraldi, hybrid), which grows less actively than arguta, then you can leave the meter. In the event that you decide to wrap a gazebo, a wall of a house or a fence with a liana, then you can plant the plants a little more often, leaving 75-80 cm between them. friend.

Before planting, prepare actinidia seedlings, carefully inspect them, if you notice broken shoots, then remove them. Dip the roots in a mash of a mixture of clay and nutrient soil in equal proportions. Further, when the places of future holes are marked, they can be started to dig. The size of the pits usually depends on the volume of the root system of the seedling, if the actinidia seedling is small and there are few roots on it, then there is no need to dig a large hole at all. The main thing is to dig it in such a size that the roots fit freely in the hole, there is room for drainage from expanded clay, pebbles or broken bricks at the base, a couple of centimeters in a layer, and for a couple of kilograms of a mixture of nutrient soil and humus in equal proportions, with the addition of 45-50 g of ammonium nitrate, 120-130 g of superphosphate and 50-100 g of wood ash. Next, you can pour about half a bucket of water into the hole and install a seedling on nutritious and moist soil, carefully straightening the roots. It remains to fill the hole with soil, making sure that the seedling of actinidia (more precisely, its root neck) is at the same depth as before that it grew in the nursery, compact the soil, pour a bucket of water on it and mulch the surface with humus with a layer of 1 centimeter.

After planting for about a month, you need to shade the seedling from direct sunlight and protect it from cats, they love the scent of actinidia and can literally eat the seedling.

Autumn planting actinidia

The subtleties of planting actinidia here are the same as in spring, the main thing is to have time to place a seedling on the site before the start of frost for 15-20 days.

support for actinidia

When the actinidia seedling lives on the site for two or three seasons, it will definitely need a support, of course, you can install it immediately or plant a seedling with the expectation that the vine will cling to an existing support in the form of a house wall, fence and other things. If we talk about artificial support, then it can be absolutely any form - such as an arch or pergola, or just a pair of pillars with three or four rows of wire stretched between them, on which vines will gradually be thrown and tied to it with ordinary twine.

Actinidia Care

Caring for actinidia is nothing very complicated. At their core, these are standard processes: loosening the soil, removing weeds, watering, fertilizing, pruning, sheltering, harvesting.

Soil loosening

It is desirable to loosen the soil under actinidia in the first 3-4 years after planting the seedling, then the vine will grow and the need for loosening will disappear by itself. At the initial stage, it is necessary to loosen the soil after each heavy rain or watering in order to prevent the formation of a crust.

Weed control

You need to fight weeds for four or five years after planting, later on in the bite zone, weeds can simply be mowed.

Watering Actinidia

Actinidia loves moisture, but moderate, it is impossible to overmoisten the soil in any case. Do not allow the soil to dry out too much. Watering is desirable to carry out in a drought, pouring 2-3 buckets of water under the plant. He loves actinidia and swims, about once a week you can water it well by sprinkling in the evening, moistening the maximum of the leaf surface. The main thing is to try not to water during the flowering period, this can impair pollination.

Top dressing actinidia

Top dressing of actinidia not only allows shoots to grow and develop normally, but also increase productivity, as well as drought resistance and winter hardiness of the plant. In the spring, it is advisable to feed actinidia with nitrogen, phosphorus and potash fertilizers. You can use both nitroammophoska (a tablespoon for each plant), and individual elements - 25-30 g of nitrogen, 18-25 g of phosphorus and 12-20 g of potassium. It is desirable to carry out the second top dressing as soon as the ovaries begin to form; nitrogen fertilizers are needed here in minimal quantities, 16-19 g is enough, but phosphorus and potassium can be more - 20-22 g for each plant. The final time in the season, actinidia can be fed after harvesting, this is approximately mid-September. Nitrogen fertilizers cannot be applied during this period, you can add a tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium salt under each bush. It is better to apply fertilizers dissolved in water, if you apply dry, then first loosen the soil and pour it with water, and then mulch with humus with a layer of 1 centimeter.

pruning actinidia

Actinidia grows quite actively, especially on nutritious soil, so it can begin to thicken. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to periodically prune the actinidia, which is appropriate to start from the fourth year of the seedling's life on the site. Actinidia pruning is best done in autumn, after leaf fall. There are no clear instructions here, you just need to visually inspect the trellis, find out which shoots compete with each other, interfere, thicken each other. If you notice dry shoots, then they must be cut out immediately. If you see unripened shoots with green tips, then it is better to pinch them, so they may have time to ripen.

As soon as the vine reaches the age of 12-13 years, you can start rejuvenating pruning. To do this, it is desirable to cut the actinidia strongly, leaving only parts of the increments 30-40 cm long from the ground. Anti-aging pruning of this degree of strength should be carried out only in late autumn.

Harvesting Actinidia

If you do everything right, then actinidia will begin to produce crops from the age of three, sometimes it can bear fruit a year later. Of course, at first it will be just a few berries, then the yields will begin to grow and reach their maximum by the age of six or seven, and with systematic anti-aging pruning, the vine can bear fruit for several decades.

On good, nutritious soil, with plenty of moisture and good care, actinidia will produce from one bush up to six tens of kilograms of delicious fruits. The fruits do not ripen at the same time, sometimes, in order to harvest the entire crop, it is necessary to carry out up to five collections. You should not rush and pick the first ripe berries of actinidia, you can wait a little and harvest in two or three doses, but you should not delay too much, very overripe berries may begin to crumble. The first fruits of early varieties actinidia usually ripen in mid-August, the latter can be found on vines at the end of September. Immediately after harvesting the entire crop, the liana can be fed, suitable for this is either wood ash in the amount of 250-300 g under a bush or a tablespoon of potassium salt and superphosphate under a bush.

Preparing actinidia for winter

Actinidia kolomikta is a completely winter-hardy crop, in the southern regions it tolerates winters without problems, but if you grow a different species or live in more northern regions, you will have to cover the actinidia. To do this, around the end of October, when stable cool weather sets in, the vine must be removed from the supports and carefully laid on the ground. After that, the vines need to be covered with dry leaves or spruce branches. To cover actinidia, you can use any covering material such as lutrasil. The main thing is to be sure to provide protection from mice; for these purposes, you need to put poisoned baits under cover or next to it. It will be possible to remove the shelter in the spring, when a stable positive temperature is established, in the center of Russia - this is the month of April.

Reproduction of actinidia

If you want to propagate a varietal plant with the preservation of all its cultural characteristics, then only vegetative propagation methods must be used. This can be reproduction by layering (usually arcuate), as well as green or woody cuttings.

Reproduction of actinidia arcuate layering

This method of propagating actinidia is quite simple and guarantees a small amount, but high-quality planting material. Proceed to reproduction in this way in the spring, immediately after the blooming of the leaf blades. It is necessary to choose the longest, youngest and well-developed shoot (shoots) of actinidia, then tilt it with the top of its head to the soil and pin it with a wooden or metal corner. The place of attachment itself must be covered with soil, with a layer of 12-14 cm, after which it is abundantly watered (3-5 liters of water), the mound formed from the shoot must be mulched, it can be sawdust, or it can be humus. The main thing at the same time is that the top of the shoot itself should not be covered with soil. Further, during the growing season, you need to water the soil near the actinidia bush and moisten the mulch, as well as fight weeds. The layering, which will certainly appear from the maternal shoot, bent over by us, must be separated, trying not to damage the young roots and planted in a permanent place. This is best done in the spring.

Propagation of actinidia with green cuttings

This method of propagation of actinidia is the most effective in terms of obtaining planting material, however, it requires the obligatory presence of a greenhouse covered with a film. Usually, young growths are cut and cut into cuttings 12-15 cm long around mid-June, although the dates, depending on the region, may shift in one direction or another. Actinidia cuttings should preferably be cut in cloudy weather and in the morning, when they are saturated with moisture. Try to cut the cuttings so that each has three buds and a couple of internodes. Ideally, the lower cut should pass directly under the kidney and be oblique, at an angle of 45 degrees, but it is better to make the upper one a couple of centimeters above the kidney, it can be either even or oblique. After that, you need to remove all the leaves except for a pair at the top or one if they are very large. You can not remove the leaves, but cut them in half. When the actinidia cuttings are ready for planting, they can either be soaked in a solution of any growth stimulator (roots and the like), or planted in a greenhouse without soaking. In the greenhouse, by that time, it is necessary to prepare the soil, which should consist of equal parts of humus, sod land and river sand. At the base of this mixture, you need to put drainage, in the form of expanded clay, a couple of centimeters thick. On top of the mixture, you need to pour river sand 2-3 cm thick and moisten it well. It is in this mixture that the actinidia cuttings will be buried. It remains only to water the soil well and plant the cuttings, deepening by 2-2.5 cm according to the 5x5 cm scheme. Next, you will need to monitor the soil moisture in the greenhouse, it will have to be watered often: in the heat 6-7 times a day, and in cloudy weather - 4-5 times a day. It's great if you have the opportunity to install automatic watering in the greenhouse, if not, then it is advisable to water from a watering can with a nozzle that has the smallest holes and use settled water at room temperature. Usually, by autumn, a full-fledged root system is formed on actinidia cuttings, but it is not advisable to dig them out of the greenhouse in autumn. The greenhouse needs to be opened, already independent plants should be insulated with dry leaves and left until spring. In the spring, actinidia cuttings with roots should be carefully dug up and planted on a bed with loose and nutritious soil according to the 10x10 cm scheme for one more season, for growing, after which two-year-old actinidia seedlings can be planted in a permanent place.

Reproduction of actinidia by lignified cuttings

This method is used less often, because lignified cuttings take root worse, but it also gives a positive result. The harvesting of lignified actinidia cuttings, unlike green ones, should be carried out not at the beginning of summer, but almost at the end of autumn. After harvesting cuttings 12-15 cm long, like green ones, they must be placed vertically in boxes and covered with river sand. The cuttings should be stored at a low positive temperature of + 2-4 degrees. If there is nowhere to store, then Actinidia cuttings can be cut before planting, that is, in early spring, as soon as the snow melts, but it is strictly necessary before the start of the growing season. Next, the cuttings in the spring should be planted in a greenhouse with the same mixture as for green cuttings, but they should be watered much less often - usually once a day. In autumn, actinidia cuttings should form roots, it is also better to dig them out and plant them in a garden bed for growing in the spring.

Varieties of actinidia

The State Register currently has 44 varieties of this wonderful crop. First of all, you should pay attention to the novelties, these are actinidia cultivars: Dachnaya (2016), Kivaldi (2016), Krasna maiden (2017), Monty S (2016), Solnechny (2016), Hayward Russian (2016) and Allison (2016) .

Let's take a closer look at these varieties.

Variety of actinidia "Dachnaya"- obtained from actinidia arguta, it is very winter-hardy and does not require shelter in the center of Russia. Leaf blades do not have variegation. The weight of the fruit is about 9.7 g, the maximum reaches 13.6 g. The fruits are green in color, elliptical with a skin of medium thickness. The taste is pleasant, but the acid is felt, so the score of the tasters is 4.7 points. The fruits practically do not crumble. Resistant to pests and diseases.

Actinidia variety "Kivaldi» - more suitable for the North Caucasus region. Has no variegation. Requires pollinators. The fruits are very large, up to 101 grams, dark brown in color, elliptical in shape, densely pubescent and have a thin skin. The taste is pleasant, the tasters are rated at 4.8 points. Alas, it does not have winter hardiness.

Variety of actinidia "Krasna maiden"- obtained from actinidia polygamous. Strong variegation of leaf blades. Fruits weighing up to 5.7 g, their color is orange, the shape is cylindrical, the skin of the fruit is thin. The taste is without signs of acidity, but fresh, that's why the tasting score is 4.6 points. The variety does not require shelter, is resistant to pests and diseases.

Actinidia variety "Monty S"- this variety is weakly winter-hardy and is more suitable for the North Caucasus region. The fruits reach a weight of 85 g, they are brown in color and obovate, strongly pubescent and thin-skinned. Fruit shedding is absent. The taste is very good - up to 4.9 points. Pollinator varieties are required.

Variety of actinidia "Sunny"- a variety from actinidia argut, it is winter-hardy enough to do without shelter in the center of Russia. It is a good pollinator, does not produce fruit itself. Variegation is absent. Quite winter hardy. Does not get sick and is not affected by pests.

Actinidia variety "Heyward Russian"- designed for warm regions of the North Caucasus. Variegation is absent. Fruits weighing up to 135 g, brown in color, elliptical in shape, pubescent and have a thin skin. The taste is pleasant, although the acid is felt, it is estimated by tasters at 4.7 points. Requires a pollinator variety.

Actinidia variety "Allison"- suitable for warm regions of the country. Variegation is absent. Fruits weighing up to 66 g, brown in color, pubescent and have a thin skin. The taste is pleasant, with strawberry aroma, tasting score 4.7 points. Requires a pollinator variety.