Unusual Selyanka (unidentified dish). Selyanka fish or hodgepodge in a pan Selyanka in a pan recipe

08.09.2020

As far as I understand (I also read in specialized literature and on the Internet), the villager is the very familiar hodgepodge to us, and, according to some sources, the villager, as now both dishes were called hodgepodge - both soup and stew (fried in a pan) cabbage with some meat or other additives, although most experts still believe that the name "selyanka" referred specifically to the first dish, and where the name "hodgepodge" came from for the cabbage dish - no one seems to understand at all ...

Why "selyanka" in Russian in the 20th century suddenly turned into "hodgepodge" is a mystery over which linguists, culinary experts and culinary historians struggle, but never come to a common opinion.

Moreover, some linguists and historians plague that "hodgepodge" is new form the word "selyanka", which is historically more correct, while others, including the famous William Pokhlebkin, argue just the opposite - that "selyanka" is the originally correct name "hodgepodge" distorted by illiterate peasants, which is mentioned in Domostroy already in 1547 (!) year.

As for the “correct” recipe, for such old, I would even say ancient, dishes, the only correct recipe simply does not exist - in different areas and even in different families they have been made from time immemorial in different ways, taking into account local characteristics and preferences. I have posted on this site before. various recipes saltwort - . There are 5 recipes from different sources and at the very end - the sixth - the one by which I always make hodgepodge myself. It looks amazing, I highly recommend it.

However, there are more answers with recipes - look, read, maybe you will pick something for yourself ...
Bon appetit...

★★★★★★★★★★

Comments

Thank you! I saw this information too.
It would be interesting to try the villager cooked in a pan.

In my opinion, this is just the well-known stewed or fried cabbage (you can also take sauerkraut) with meat, smoked meats, mushrooms and other additives (in modern version- with sausages or sausage). I didn't see any other options. However, what kind of pan - there are pans that are in no way inferior to pots, you can cook in them ...

By the way, there are options for cooking hodgepodge when not only onions and tomato paste are fried in a pan, but also pickles and even olives with capers. This frying is called "brez" and the ingredients included in it are put into the soup not fresh or poached, but fried. The taste of such a hodgepodge is noticeably less spicy, less sour and less salty.

Look for example, this video - youtube be - maybe you like it? Or maybe this is just what you asked about - most of the hodgepodge is cooked in a pan ...

When stewing cabbage, you need to take a mixture of sauerkraut (3 parts) and fresh (2 parts).

Here for an amateur - different recipes there is...

If someone cooked, I would eat))

Okay, it's as simple as that:

There is a description of how I do it. But I do without potatoes, which is clear from the picture, and potatoes are just a more complete option. If you do not want with potatoes (it is better to put it on a plate next to it in the form of mashed potatoes) - just remove all mention of it from the recipe.

Well, or here - unprofessional livejournal.com- this is how Stalik Khankishiyev prepares this dish (photo and video) ...

What is a dish - "selyanka"?

Selyanka differs from hodgepodge, as it is a rustic dish.
Peasants cooked in a Russian oven. Offal was added to the villager, not delicacy meat.
The tongue, heart, lung, tripe, kidneys, liver and so on were used, everything that was at hand was added to such a soup to make it satisfying.
Be sure to cook with pickles, who added potatoes and cabbage, who grits. Of course, salted tomatoes were not added, and fresh tomatoes were preferred.
By-products, such as liver, contain many trace elements.
In our time, not everyone will eat such a rural village woman with all the offal, preference is for gourmet meat, especially since the tongue has become a delicacy.
And before there was no choice, the peasants lived in poverty, so they prepared a satisfying village woman. I myself heard about the Vologda village woman in my distant childhood from my ancestors.

Selyanka belongs to the old peasant dishes and is cooked on offal in a Russian oven.

b.
The link will only be opened to friends.
It was research and I do not pretend to authenticity and reliability, since I used old books, but there are practically no facts, because Today, although they cook a villager in a pan, this is an extremely simplified version.
When I wrote about the village woman, at that time I was talking on forums, including the Gastronome forum.
And I had the opportunity to arrange something like a survey.

Solyanka (not a villager) can now be called any white cabbage stewed cabbage- fresh, pickled, marinated, mixed with fresh and pickled, fresh with tomato, fresh with vegetables, fresh with vegetables and sausages or ham, even just fresh with bacon, onions and sweet paprika.
Based on the stories, I made up an idea about the distribution area of the concept of hodgepodge or selyanka in a pan, as a second course.
From Moscow to the border with Dagestan, in some places, a hodgepodge in a pan is prepared exactly and they call it a hodgepodge in the same way.
But personally, while lived at home I didn’t know hodgepodge in a pan, sauerkraut was stewed at home with meat and rice, carrots and onions ..
When I was young in Chita, I cooked simple stewed cabbage with potatoes in milk, but no one thought to call such dishes hodgepodge in our country, and I didn’t know about it until I got my hands on a book in the early 90s Gilyarovsky Moscow and Muscovites. »
And although there was not a word about a village woman in a frying pan, but it was about a hodgepodge-soup, the book, as it were, attracted the next work Melnikov-Pechersky novel in two books "In forests."
and "On the mountains.» And in the second part of the novel "In forests." I ran into that villager in the pan. Whenever possible, I began to pay attention to this name, to be interested in ..
And then this is how my first theme was written.
And the first village woman was cooked, but it was with meat. Then I cooked it a couple of times with lean fish and mushrooms .. My husband loves sauerkraut very much, so whatever I cook from it, he eats with pleasure.

Today I cooked a pickled cabbage selyanka with pickles, onions and spices.

Because the village woman was fish, she cooked it with hake fillet, because, relying on memory, which let her down, she couldn’t find anything more suitable in the freezer.))
In general, either fatty fish with a pronounced fishy taste or a mixture of oily and lean fish should go to such a village.

The recipe is very simple and I took it from the previous topic, i.e. close to those
that were found in old books, and not adjusted to modernity ..
Cabbage and fish I took equally.
But if there are a little more fish, then this is only for the benefit of the hodgepodge.

I already had pickled cabbage with carrots, so I didn’t add carrots.
So:

For 1 kg. cabbage
1 kg. fish fillet.
1 large onion.
5 medium pickles.
2 tbsp butter.
3 art. l. vegetable oils.
2 bay leaves.
3-4 peas of allspice.
Dry thyme to taste.
A mixture of peppers.
Aromatic salt.
1 teaspoon without a slide of sugar.
4-5 art. l. breadcrumbs,
I took a crumb from dry ground
bread that she baked herself.
Additionally, about 50 gr. melted
butter.
You can add some greens.

Cabbage must be drained from the marinade and, if necessary, rinsed, as
it may be too acidic. Put the stew for an hour and a half on the smallest fire, adding half a glass of water to it and adding vegetable oil.
During this time, you need to prepare the fish fillet.
I dried it slightly, sprinkled with lemon juice, sprinkled with fragrant salt,
It has everything - pepper, herbs and spices.
But salt very carefully, because. we already have salt in cabbage and cucumbers.
Then, after 10 minutes, she rolled the fish in flour and quickly fried it in vegetable oil on both sides.
20 minutes before the end of the cabbage stew, add chopped onion and diced pickles to it, Bay leaf, pepper, sugar, other herbs and spices.
Taste and season with salt if needed.
But in general, there is already enough salt in the village.
If you decide to add greens, then put it in the cabbage already when you collect the hodgepodge.
Drain the cooked cabbage from the remaining liquid.
To the bottom glass mold with a lid that I smeared with rast. oil, lay a layer of cabbage,
and it will be half of her, on him all the fish and the remains of cabbage to cover all the fish like a blanket.
Pour the top with plenty of breadcrumbs or just a crumb of wheat bread and pour melted (50 gr.) Butter.
Place the mold in the oven and turn it on at 200°C.
My mold cannot be placed in a preheated oven, but if your mold is ceramic or metal, it makes sense to turn it on in advance so that it warms up.
You need to bake the villager until it is browned on top.

I boiled potatoes for the village woman, which I seasoned with a mixture of butter and vegetable oil, grated garlic and fresh dill.
Still, we didn’t have lunch with Uncle Elistrat, as in the quote below, with cabbage soup and pies, geese and piglets ..)) one cabbage with fish would not be enough!))

Flipping through the first book the other day. Vlada Piskunova, in which there is a fish villager in a pan.
I thought about it and decided nevertheless to show it as necessary, because. Vlad cooked the village girl well
and in a modern way .. and I liked the recipe for the way he prepared the fish, putting it out in brine, and offered the fish affordable for any wallet.
The recipe is supplemented with mushrooms, carrots, tomato paste and olives.

I will show it as an example to enrich the villager in a frying pan.
Counting the products in grams that Vlad added in addition to cabbage and fish, it turns out that he took the same amount of vegetables as the fish part.

Selyanka fish frying pan.

Fish selyanka (hodgepodge) cooked in a frying pan is one of the most popular Moscow tavern snacks. For this villager, you can take any small-boned fish - catfish, sturgeon, pike perch, but it is better to cook from several varieties of fish at once, and you can use both fresh and salted. Salted fish in this case must be soaked and boiled in fresh water- it is no longer necessary to put it in the broth.

600 g fish fillet (sturgeon, catfish pike perch, salted cod, salmon)
100 g carrots
200 g sauerkraut
handful of olives, better varieties Kalamata|
1/2 onion
1 tbsp tomato paste
2.5 l. unsalted fish broth
150 g of salted mushrooms (honey mushrooms, mushrooms.)
mushrooms, whites, butter.)
fresh dill
allspice
(aka sweet pea)
Bay leaf
freshly ground black pepper
1 st. l. Sahara

There are no cucumbers in the recipe .. but the photo next to it shows 4 medium-sized peeled cucumbers.

Cut off the skin from the cucumbers and, if the cucumbers are large, remove the seeds. We cut the peeled cucumbers into small cubes.
We put the peel in a deep frying pan and fill it with two ladles of fish broth. Add bay leaf, a few Jamaican peppercorns. Cook over medium heat until reduced by half. Strain the beaten broth through a metal sieve.
Pour the boiled and strained broth back into a deep frying pan. Add salt and freshly ground black pepper, bringing the broth to a low boil.
We cut the fish into small pieces and lightly stew in the resulting broth, remove the pan from the heat and set aside so that the pieces of fish slowly reach readiness, saturated with the aromas of seasonings.
In another cast-iron frying pan, we pass the onion cut into thin half rings. Adding tomato paste and continue to pass.

Put in a pan with onions washed under running water sauerkraut, sliced cucumbers, pickled mushrooms, olives.
Wash down with fish broth and add a spoonful of sugar, mix and simmer without a lid over low heat.

A couple of times we will have to extend the fish broth so that the cabbage does not fry.
Cut the carrots into cubes and fry until half cooked in a separate pan.
Add fried carrots, finely chopped dill, pieces of stewed fish.
Add more broth, if necessary, and heat everything together.
Remove from heat, cover with a lid and let the villager stand in the assembled state.
10 minutes, after which it can be served at the table.

At first it seems that it seems like a lot of manipulations and dishes ..
But no more than when cooking the same borscht.
I think that there will be readers who want to repeat the peasant woman.
meat differs from fish in a set of meat products.
Kidneys are very suitable for cabbage, but you can replace them with heart, pieces of pork or beef meat, and the combined meat hodgepodge will be just as good as fish.
By excluding fish or meat, get a completely lean option.))

While I was writing the text, I remembered from Fedor eryv a topic about a villager, and with such an unexpected interpretation that I think it will be interesting for you to read it.

I will add already for completeness of the picture and his Kabkaba - Tunisian hodgepodge.
The recipe is great too.

And now I'm going to confuse you ..))
Here is a small dialogue about sbitna.
No, not about the old drink we are talking.)) About the fish dish.
From the comments:

- fish sbiten - a dish like a fish hodgepodge in a frying pan, cooked with pickles and pickled mushrooms. Vologda. Sbiten from collect, collect as I was told
and treated. Pike perch, asp and roach went to the sbiten. According to the story, both salmon and sterlet were added there. It was in the 10th or 11th year.

And of course, no one can forbid you to deviate from the recipe and enrich it with tomatoes, olives, mushrooms, celery, sweet paprika. Cook from a mixture of cabbage
and meat villagers and fish and completely lean!

And isn't the hodgepodge mentioned in the novel "Oblomov." Goncharova?

- And what's for dinner? - asks Oblomov.
- Sauerkraut with salmon, she said.
- There is no sturgeon anywhere: I went out to all the shops, and my brother asked - no.
Is it possible that a live sturgeon will come across - a merchant from the carriage row ordered,
- so they promised to cut off a part. Then veal, porridge in a pan ...
- That's great! How sweet you are to remember, Agafya Matveevna!
Only Anisya would not forget.
- What am I for? Do you hear it hissing? she answered, opening the door a little.
to the kitchen. - It's getting hot.

On request for quotes about hodgepodge in a pan, a number of links fell out, which eventually led here. This is the journal Science and Life, Sokolsky's culinary stories.
Those who wish to read the article in full, because. There are also old recipes.
I’ll just add quotes from there - I really want to keep them.)) But again, I still disagree with the emergence of the word “selyanka.” Why, I wrote in my first topic about it.

First of all, here is a quote: Melnikov-Pechersky "In forests." Totally, she's so good!

In the city, in a restaurant with Uncle Elistrat.

The cart jumped along the cobblestone pavement, pitted along and at random with gullies and potholes, and soon the fellow countrymen reached the inn. Alexei could not refuse the annoying uncle Elistrat, he was not glad that he contacted him. Although he did not buy anything at the pier or at the bazaar, he did not sell anything, but Uncle Elistrat considered it necessary to rip off Alexei's magarych, sprinkle, which means his happy arrival in the city. There was nothing to do, Alexei had to treat his fellow countryman, he entered with Uncle Elistrat into the spacious, bright rooms of the hotel, on the occasion of the holiday and the market day, crowded with merchants. The chambers of Patap Maksimych, which until then had been a curiosity to Alexei, in comparison with these seemed like dark skunks. Chambers two sazhens high, pasted over with colorful, albeit heavily soiled wallpaper, bronze chandeliers with hanging crystals, mirrors, albeit dull, but rising almost to the ceiling, trippy, albeit smoky curtains on the windows, gilded cornices, a painted ceiling - all this is unusual for Alexei it seemed such a luxury, such wealth, that the thought immediately flashed in his head: “Oh, if I could get along with the deceased Nastya then, I wouldn’t conduct business as it happened with us, I would live in such mansions ...” All it seemed to Alexei a marvel: both a huge cupboard at the entrance, with many shelves lined with bottles and crystal decanters of multi-colored vodkas, and shiny copper basins a fathom across, filled with chunks of ice and sterlets still fluttering, and a lot of tables covered with dirty and always wet napkins, around which the sedate “guests”, dressed half in frock coats, half in various Siberians, kaftans, chapans and undershirts, sedately sat at tea. The unprecedented newcomer marvels at the low bows that he, a stranger, a stranger, is weighed by the portly clerks standing behind the buffet and the dignified owner himself with expensive rings on his fingers and with a gold medal on a tightly buttoned velvet waistcoat. He marvels at the motley crowd of lively, broken-down sex workers, who in white muslin shirts stand in a heap at a large table in the middle of the room and, vigilantly looking around the "guests", straighten their beards or wave the ends of the towels thrown over their shoulders. At the entrance of Alexei and Uncle Elistrat, they began to fuss, and one, evenly tearing himself away from a bunch of comrades, mercilessly shrugging his shoulders and waving his arms, led the “new guests” to an empty table, spread a clean napkin in front of them and, leaning on his side with his elbow, asked in a lisping voice, tilting blond head: - What will you order to regale? “First of all, get us, well done, four pairs of tea, but see that I have the best tea - flower ... Put a decanter on,” Elistrat said in a blunder. - What will be your grace's pleasure? Ryabinova? Leaflets? Pomerantseva? Al, maybe you want an all-Russian work? Uncle Elistrat wished for an all-Russian work, and in about three minutes the dexterous darling, straight off the chain, was already flying to his guests. With one hand he raised above his head a tray with cups and two teapots, in the other he carried a small tray with a decanter of refined and two voluminous glasses. Deftly throwing the trays one by one on the table, he went to the middle table, and there, akimbo on his hips, began to gaze intently at Alexei and Elistrat. Alexey went to the hotel reluctantly. If Uncle Elistrat had almost dragged him by force, he would never have crossed her threshold for anything in the world. From early childhood, he had heard enough from his father and mother and from the sedate peasants of his village that all these taverns and taverns were brought to ruin for young people, that there is ugly drunkenness and violent revelry from morning to night, that there is anyone who enters there, they will immediately rob and drink, and sometimes they will beat you off for no reason at all, and so, you live great. Old female cell-attendants, who lived in his parents' house to teach children to read and write, called the taverns tavern maids, appointed by the devil from the servants of the Antichrist for the sake of trapping Christian souls. In general, visiting such establishments Aleksei considered a shameful affair, and his heart was restless when he sat down with Uncle Elistrat at the helpful floor table allotted. But now he glances around - all respectable people are sitting, speaking sedately, a rotten word does not leave their tongue: they talk about trade, about the prices for transporting luggage, about the Volga shoals and rifts. Not far away, two men, sitting behind a village woman, are getting on with the business of supplying millet from Syzran to Rybnaya; one interlocutor is a wealthy shipowner, the other is a hoarder of tens of thousands of quarters of grain bread. All conversations are businesslike, worthwhile. Listening to them, Aleksey looks more cheerful, his soul becomes calmer, perhaps, even though thanks to Uncle Elistrat for bringing him to a place where smart people are, where you can learn a lot of good things. The foresters have finished their tea; the decanter of the All-Russian was entirely left to Uncle Elistrat. He was healthy for drinking - how he sat down, he got up like that: at least in one eye. “Well, fellow countryman, why don’t we have a little something to eat?” he asked Alexei, thinking of having a sweet meal and a good drink for a gift. "For me, perhaps," agreed Alexei. "Now it's time for dinner." Uncle Elistrat rapped his spoon on the rinsing cup, and tearing himself away from the middle table, the clerk ran up in the summer. “Pick up, well done, some dishes to the side,” Uncle Elistrat said to him, “and tell us to dress up a Moscow peasant woman, so that it was more peppery and sour.” Cabbage would not be spared. “What kind of fish will your ladyship’s villager need?” the darling asked with a touching smile, in a lisping, thin voice. “We know with what!” Uncle Elistrat answered with gravity. - With sterlet and fresh sturgeon ... Yes, so that the sterlet is alive, not dead - do you hear? Yes, let's mark it so that these dog children do not take it into their heads to cheat us. And, going up to a copper basin with fish, he chose a good sterlet of about eleven inches and marked the fish, hitting it twice with a knife on the head, and by the way, stabbed it in the side with a point. “It will be more correct,” Uncle Elistrat said. Here, after all, the people, oh-oh! he added, leaning towards Alexei. After all, they only sharpen folly and fool people. Take anyone - he’s cut out of a rogue, he’s been hit by a swindler! .. Inveterate people! with a machko, with a pepper... Do you understand?.. You would climb into your mouth yourself... Do you hear?.. They cook noble cabbage soup - you will swallow your tongue, - Uncle Elistrat continued, turning to Alexei. - Something else to chew, countryman ? - For me, everything is one, order, if you started, - Alexey answered. - Is it a goose with cabbage? And if there is a hunt, they will immediately tell a roast pig with porridge. Here, brother, besides bird's milk, everything is there that your soul does not want ... So, or no, I say, well done? he added to the sexual, again slapping him on the shoulder in a friendly manner, with all his might. - Is it possible to order a peasant woman? From the kidneys? asked Alexei, Uncle Yelistrat, who was familiar with tavern dishes. “Perhaps,” Alexei replied indifferently. - Go ahead! - Yelistrat shouted to the sexual man. - Yes, so that everything with a living hand ripens with me - immediately! .. A short-haired girl would not have time to braid! , yes, a goose with cabbage, and a roasted pig - he quickly went over the floor, counting on his fingers. - What sweet will your grace need? - Girls, what, did they come to you? Uncle Yelistrat laughed. deeper. Speak, and you, dear fellow, speak quickly. Alexei liked the dinner, and also liked the Madeira of Yaroslavl made from all sorts of things by the famous winemakers of the Sobolev brothers. But no matter how hungry, no matter how eager Uncle Elistrat was for other people's dinners, he could not overcome everything ordered. The goose remained almost untouched. Uncle Elistrat is fed up, but his eyes are still hungry, and therefore, hesitating a little, he took out a blue paper handkerchief from his bosom and, tying a goose in it, put it in his pocket - to feast on a sweet bite for the coming sleep. The floormen laughed. “Don’t you dare salt the pockets,” said one of them, apparently the largest, leaning on the middle table with his arms thrown back. - I don’t take stolen, paid ... Why are you grinning your teeth? .. Did you want it yourself? Uncle Elistrat snarled at him, slipping the remains of the pig into his pocket. “We are not a dog breed - you won’t surprise our brother with leftovers,” the larger one replied contemptuously and stepped aside with an even, slow step. “Yerikhons, blow you like a mountain! .. It would have twisted you from corner to corner,” Uncle Elistrat scolded, putting the remaining pieces of white and pecked bread and a couple of pickles in his pockets ... “Well, fellow countryman,” he turned to Alexei, stretching and unraveling the girdle - for bread, for salt, for cabbage soup we will dance, for pies we will sing a song! .. It's time, then, to snore a little. The belly has become like a mountain, God forbid to get to the yard. Alexei did not answer. At that very moment, the harmonious sounds of an organ, just brought from Moscow and something very expensive, spilled out from the next room ... The organ was extremely rare ... To listen to it, people of such a kind often went to that hotel to sit out for an hour or two among the black people they consider God knows what dishonor. The governor's wife herself, as rumors about the "wonderful orchestra" reached her, was inflamed with a desire to enjoy its sounds and on this occasion invited almost half the city to her evening. It turned out, however, that, despite all the efforts of the police chief and the mayor, it was impossible to transport the musical marvel to the governor's house. Then the order was given to the owner on such and such a day not to let anyone into the hotel, to smoke the rooms with Parisian spirits, to put wet napkins away from the tables, to cook fish soup from arshin sterlet, to boil three pounds of sturgeon, to add beluga caviar, sturgeon caviar, caviar directly from sturgeon, of the best Don balyks, invite a club chef to prepare the most delicate dishes from the master's supplies, of course, and freeze four dozen not Kashino and not bishop's, but real champagne. As for the fruits, they were not ordered to worry: the provincial leader from his suburban greenhouses promised to donate peaches, and plums, and apricots, and something else of that kind. The owner of the hotel, of course, was out of the money, but he was honored to host the “best audience”, whatever it was in the city, and with heartfelt tenderness, exactly to the holy relics, reverently kiss with thick lips to the soft, tiny, fragrant hand of Her Excellency. Bishops used to call effervescent wine, prepared like champagne from Astrakhan and Kizlyar chikhir in the cellars of the bishop's house in Nizhny Novgorod hired by wine merchants of the Makaryev Fair.

Ivan Bunin. "Snowdrop."

And now the father sits down, taking off his hat, opening his sheepskin coat, and immediately
orders several servings, - a village woman in a frying pan, bream in sour cream,
fried saffron cod, - requires a decanter of vodka, half a dozen beers and invites
at the table of acquaintances: some red-haired men in sheepskin coats, some
dark-haired philistines in chuykas ...

A. P. Chekhov "Lady with a dog."

The bank employee “Gurov, who has lived in Yalta for two weeks already”, found that “there is a lot of untruth in the stories about the impurity of local customs”, nevertheless, through a short time started an affair with an unfamiliar married woman, and upon returning to his native land, he plunged into Moscow life with pleasure: “He was already drawn to restaurants, clubs, dinner parties, anniversaries, and he was already flattered that he had famous lawyers and artists and that in the Doctor's Club he plays cards with the professor. Already he could eat a whole portion of the village woman in a pan ... "

Novel N. S. Leskova "Nowhere."

Pretty owner of lovely blue eyes ok, Sister Feoktista, who “was a widow for the third year, how she went to a monastery,” recalled how “after getting married, she became heavy” and in great post when “in the house it was like in a monastery, besides they didn’t cook anything mushrooms,” she wanted a village woman: “Feoktista wiped away the tears that filled long eyelashes her big blue eyes, and continued: - On the most passionate Tuesday, I thought about the village woman with the fish. Here I am dying, I want a village girl with stellate sturgeon, and nothing more. My husband came from the shop, went to bed, and I tell him this about my desire. "What are you, she says, a fool, what days! People now eat little bread, and what are you thinking? Pray, she says, more, everything will pass."

Goncharov I.A. "Oblomov."

Suddenly the hostess, frightened, ran up to him.
- You have a guest! - she said.
- Who: Tarantiev or Alekseev?
- No, no, the one that dined on Ilyin's day.
— Stolz? - Oblomov said in alarm, looking around, where to go. - God! what will he say when he sees ... Tell me that I left! he added hurriedly, and went into the room with the hostess.
Anisya incidentally arrived in time to meet the guest. Agafya Matveevna managed to convey the order to her. Stolz believed, only surprised that Oblomov was not at home.
- Well, tell me that I'll come in two hours, I'll have dinner! he said, and went nearby to the public garden.
- There will be dinner! Anisya conveyed with fear.
- There will be dinner! Agafya Matveevna repeated in fear to Oblomova.
“We must make another dinner,” he decided after a pause.
She looked at him with a look of horror. She had only fifty kopecks left, and there were still ten days left until the first day, when her brother gave out the money. Nobody lends money.
“We won’t have time, Ilya Ilyich,” she remarked timidly, “let him eat what he has ...
“He doesn’t eat that, Agafya Matveevna: he can’t stand soup, he doesn’t even eat sturgeon; She also doesn't take lamb in her mouth.
- You can take the language in the sausage! - suddenly, as if by inspiration, she said, - it's close here.
- It's good, it's possible; Yes, order some greens, fresh beans ...
"Beans eight hryvnia a pound!" She stirred in her throat, but it didn't come out of her mouth.
“All right, I’ll do it,” she said, deciding to replace the beans with cabbage.
- Tell the Swiss cheese a pound to take! he commanded, not knowing about Agafya Matveevna's means, "and nothing else!" I'll apologize, I'll say that they didn't wait... - Yes, if I could have some broth.
She was gone.
- What about guilt? he suddenly remembered.
She responded with a new look of horror.
“We must send for the Lafitte,” he concluded coolly.

Since the days of early kitchen_nah-a, the most inquisitive culinary minds have tried to understand what it is. The prevailing version now is that the village is the common name of the saltwort. For starters, here is a paragraph from Wikipedia:

Solyanka (originally selyanka) is a dish of Russian cuisine, soup on a steep meat, fish or mushroom broth with spicy spices. There are hodgepodges three types: meat, fish and mushroom. The base of the hodgepodge is sour-salty-spicy due to the addition of components such as salted cucumbers, olives, capers, lemon, kvass, salted or pickled mushrooms. Solyanka combines the components of both cabbage soup (cabbage, sour cream) and pickle (pickles, cucumber pickle). Fried boiled meat goes to meat hodgepodges various kinds, corned beef, smoked meat and sausage products. In fish hodgepodges - boiled, salted, smoked red fish (sturgeon). There are a lot of spices in all hodgepodges: pepper, parsley and dill.

And Pokhlebkin: " Selyanka. Wrong, distorted, but rooted since the 19th century. in cookbooks and menus, the name of hodgepodges."

However, I still doubt that everything is so simple.

In support of this, I will give a few more quotes, as well as a simple recipe that I know from life in Eastern Siberia.

1)
"In Kadnikovsky district, the mother-in-law was preparing a village woman that day: she broke about 20 eggs and poured them into a bowl, poured in a glass of milk and put butter, mixed everything thoroughly and put it in the oven. It turned out a dish that looked like an omelette."

“In Nikolsky district, birds were also little eaten, but if they wanted to treat guests with something special, they prepared a village woman from chickens. To do this, they cut the chicken into pieces and put it in a frying pan. They also poured a glass of unleavened milk there, broke about a dozen eggs , put a few tablespoons of oil, salt and stewed for a long time. The village was the favorite treat of the youth.

Russian North: ethnic history and folk culture. XII-XX centuries. (http://www.booksite.ru/localtxt/nor/thr/uss/index.htm)

2)
Here, for example, is a very simple recipe for a village woman (Vologda region).
Finely chopped boiled potatoes are poured with a mass of beaten eggs, milk and hemp seed crushed in a mortar. Salt and put in the oven in a clay bowl. Some people put white crackers instead of potatoes. On top, a beautiful crust is obtained. Previously, the peasant woman was cooked only in the oven. Now there are gas stoves in the houses, so sometimes, for speed, the village woman is made in the oven.(http://nax.maiapart.com/3812306.html)

A quote from Selvinsky, cited in the book "Russian Cuisine in Exile": "In the village - olives from Greece and Viennese sausages, but the village is truly Russian food."

4)
nedzume

The villagers of the Vyatka region, who do not know Dahl's dictionary and the Internet, call scrambled eggs a villager. I heard this many times and in different villages.

I don’t know why, but all my numerous mothers-aunts, originating from the Vyazemsky district and born from 1904 to 1921, called “hodgepodge” cabbage fried in a pan with onions, or lean, or in better days with sausages or Tambov ham.

6)
tanya_gurina

My grandmother is from the Vologda region. In their village, a villager was essentially called an omelette, it was prepared either from river fish or from poultry in a dish with high edges. Baked in the oven. Sometimes potatoes were added. By the way, this is not everyday food, they were made only for the holidays.

7)
And finally, Dahl:<селянка> - kind of scrambled eggs with white bread.

Most often, people in their memories mention something similar to an omelette. This is quite similar to what I had to meet in the Krasnoyarsk Territory (near the city of Lesosibirsk) and in Northern Kazakhstan (near the city of Derzhavinsk).

For those who are interested, I will show a map where these places are marked with asterisks.

However, in my case, the village woman was still more like a soup.

So, for every 600 ml of milk you will need one egg, salt to taste and black pepper. This is already the necessary basis, which can be supplemented with fish, mushrooms, potatoes or poultry. For the demonstration, I chose potatoes and chicken. Onions are not put in such villagers.

I peeled and crumbled the potatoes, and cut the chicken into small pieces at the joints. Whisk milk with eggs, salt and black pepper.

Approximate proportions:
100 grams of potatoes,
150 grams of chicken (for me, the village woman is tastier if the skin is removed from the meat),
1200 ml milk
2 eggs,
a teaspoon of salt
a teaspoon of black pepper.

I put all this in a deep cast-iron frying pan and sent it to the oven heated to 120 degrees for 2 hours.

Here's a picture of what happens over time. It really does look like an omelet. But the impression is deceptive.

This is such a mysterious dish that was born by a folk genius!
Try it somehow, it's really delicious.
To increase the amount of broth, you can add a little water to the milk.

It is difficult to say when the villagers appeared in our country. In the XVIII century. and even in XIX in. so called the second stew with pickles and vegetables. There were villagers made from sauerkraut, but they were also cooked as second courses. Modern peasant soups began to appear on the pages of cookbooks in XIX in.

A lot of controversy was caused by the appearance of this popular dish. Most culinary specialists, and now linguists, believe that it is more correct to say "selyanka" and not hodgepodge, as is customary in restaurants. This is confirmed by the connoisseur of old Moscow V. Gilyarovsky.

The basis of the villager is a brez. To prepare it, cut into half rings onion, sauté it with fat, add tomato puree and sauté all together. This mixture is called brez. This name comes from the fact that onions are sautéed, usually with fat removed from the broth, which is called brez. Pickled cucumbers are peeled, coarse seeds are added, a little broth is added and stewed. For any villager, the main thing is concentrated broth (fish or meat). Brez, poached cucumbers are added to the broth. It turns out the liquid part of the villager. The main products, spices are placed in it and boiled.

For meat villagers, boiled meat, kidneys, ham, sausage are cut into slices and brought to a boil. For a fish village, pieces of fish are placed in the liquid part of it and boiled for 10–15 minutes. In addition, capers, olives or pitted olives are added to the villagers, but this is not necessary. The peasant woman is served on the table with chopped greens, lemon slices and sour cream. All villagers cook the same way.

No. 360. Villager meat team. Prepare as described above. Depending on the set of products, there can be: a meat villager (with any meat), a team (with a set of sausage, ham, meat, poultry), a villager from poultry, a villager from a failure (tongue, beef kidneys, heart, udder). Served with greens, sour cream.

For the liquid part of the villager for 4 servings: onion 200–250, pickled cucumbers 200, tomato puree 100, butter, margarine 60, broth 1.5 l (optional: capers 50–60, olives 100), lemon, sour cream.

Meat set for the villager meat: meat (beef, pork)

500-600; for the peasant woman of the meat team: beef, meat veal 200, ham 100, sausages, sausages 100, kidneys 100; from poultry: chicken with bones 600–700; from failure: beef tongues 200, kidneys 250, heart 200, udder 150.

No. 361. Village meat home. Homemade villager differs in that they first put sliced \u200b\u200bpotatoes into chicken broth, cook until almost cooked, then boil the villager, as usual (put a brez, cucumbers, etc.).

No. 362. Fish villager. As with any village woman, it is important for fish that it be based on concentrated broth. The fish is cut into boneless fillets. Heads, fins, tail are well washed, poured cold water and cook the broth. If possible, then along with the waste, fish trifles are also boiled. The broth is filtered, pieces of fish are put into it, boiled until cooked (10-15 minutes after boiling), the fish is taken out. The selyanka is cooked on the broth in the same way as the meat one (they put a breeze, seasoning, cucumbers, etc.). When serving, put pieces of fish. Can be cooked from different varieties fish (sea bass and pollock, small fish and mackerel, etc.), but you can cook a delicious village from one type of fish. Served with greens, a slice of lemon.

No. 363. Villager of the Don. Previously, this village was cooked with sturgeon fish. The broth was boiled from the heads, it was released with pieces of sturgeon fish, pulp from the heads, cartilage. However, the main feature of this village woman is not in this, but in the set of products. Carrots, onions, parsley (root) are cut into circles or stars, sautéed with butter or margarine, tomato puree is added and sautéed together. Pickled cucumbers are cleaned from seeds and skins, cut into slices and stewed. Brez (vegetables with tomato), stewed cucumbers, spices, salt are put into the boiling broth, boiled 10–15 minutes, put sliced \u200b\u200bfresh tomatoes, pieces of boiled fish and bring to a boil.

Various fish 500–600, carrots 100, parsley 60, pickled cucumbers 200, onions 150, fresh tomatoes 200, tomato puree 100, butter 60 (capers, olives, lemon), broth 1.5 l.

Dancing from the stove to the computer!!

Solyanka (originally selyanka) is a dish of Russian cuisine, a soup on a steep meat, fish or mushroom broth with spicy spices. There are three types of hodgepodges: meat, fish and mushroom. The base of the hodgepodge is sour-salty-spicy due to the addition of such components as pickles, olives, capers, lemon, kvass, salted or pickled mushrooms. Solyanka combines the components of both cabbage soup (cabbage, sour cream) and pickle (pickles, cucumber pickle). Meat hodgepodges are fried boiled meat of various kinds, corned beef, smoked meat and sausages. In fish hodgepodges - boiled, salted, smoked red fish (sturgeon). There are a lot of spices in all hodgepodges: pepper, parsley and dill.
And Pokhlebkin: "Selyanka. Incorrect, distorted, but rooted since the 19th century in cookbooks and menus, the name of saltwort."
However, I still doubt that everything is so simple.
In support of this, I will give a few more quotes, as well as a simple recipe that I know from life in Eastern Siberia.
1) "In Kadnikovsky district, the mother-in-law was preparing a village woman that day: she broke about 20 eggs and poured them into a bowl, poured in a glass of milk and put butter, mixed everything thoroughly and put it in the oven. It turned out a dish that looked like an omelette."
“In Nikolsky district, birds were also little eaten, but if they wanted to treat guests with something special, they prepared a village woman from chickens. To do this, they cut the chicken into pieces and put it in a frying pan. They also poured a glass of unleavened milk there, broke about a dozen eggs , put a few tablespoons of oil, salt and stewed for a long time. The village was the favorite treat of the youth.
Russian North: ethnic history and folk culture. XII-XX centuries. ( http://www.booksite.ru/localtxt/nor/th r/uss/index.htm)
2) natalyushko Here, let's say, is a very simple recipe for a peasant girl (Vologda region).
Finely chopped boiled potatoes are poured with a mass of beaten eggs, milk and hemp seed crushed in a mortar. Salt and put in the oven in a clay bowl. Some people put white crackers instead of potatoes. On top, a beautiful crust is obtained. ( http://nax.maiapart.com/3812306.html)
3) vv_novikov(Mordovian cuisine)
Let's start with God help. From the SELYANKI, perhaps. And she, guys, is hot and rich! She, guys, is fragrant! I dip the spoon, scoop up the meat. And a bay leaf comes across. Hello bay leaf.
Our village woman, out of humanity, is not bloody. In general, they say, it is necessary to do with blood, with unwashed liver. Then the taste is different and the smell is special. But we are not worse at all, it's a pity it ended quickly. And cooking is easy. We cook for forty minutes good pieces of heart, brisket and liver, toss potatoes and chopped onions, salt. And four and a half minutes before readiness, we select drool and courageously throw greens into the saucepan. And then we take a deeper cup, a bigger spoon and work, work http://vv-novikov.livejournal.com/863367.html
4) nedzume The villagers of the Vyatka region, who do not know Dahl's dictionary and the Internet, call scrambled eggs a villager. I heard this many times and in different villages.
5) abugaisky I don’t know why, but all my numerous mothers-aunts, originating from the Vyazemsky district and born from 1904 to 1921, called “hodgepodge” cabbage fried in a pan with onions, or lean, or on better days with sausages or Tambov ham.

6) tanya_gurina My grandmother is from the Vologda region. In fact, they called an omelet a peasant in their village, it was prepared either from river fish or from poultry in a dish with high edges. It was baked in the oven. Sometimes potatoes were added. By the way, this is not everyday food, they were made only for the holidays.

7) Dahl's:<селянка>- a kind of scrambled eggs with white bread.
And a quote from Selvinsky, cited in the book "Russian Cuisine in Exile": "In the village - olives from Greece and Viennese sausages, but the village is truly Russian food."
Most often, people in their memories mention something similar to an omelette. This is quite similar to what I had to meet in the Krasnoyarsk Territory (near the city of Lesosibirsk) and in Northern Kazakhstan (near the city of Derzhavinsk).
And in Kazakhstan Akmola - Tselinograd (nowacetana)- solyanka was called stewed cabbage with sausage and meat.

However, in my case uh, villager yet more like soup.

So, for every 600 ml of milk you will need one egg, salt to taste and black pepper. This is already the necessary basis, which can be supplemented with fish, mushrooms, potatoes or poultry. I chose potatoes and chicken. Onions are not put in such villagers.

Peel the potatoes, cut into cubes, and disassemble the chicken into small pieces. Whisk milk with eggs, salt and black pepper.
Approximate proportions: -100 grams of potatoes, -150 grams of chicken (skins can be removed), -1200 ml of milk, -2 eggs, - a teaspoon of salt, a teaspoon of black pepper. You can add your favorite herbs, I have Provence.

Fry the bird in a pan, then transfer it to the form in which we will bake. Pour milk with a beaten egg, and put in a hot oven at 160g for an hour and a half. Watch that it doesn't burn.

The fact is that egg and milk proteins partially precipitate, and partially float to the surface, where they form a film that prevents the liquid from evaporating. And inside this capsule you get a real, very fragrant soup with a clear broth.
This is such a mysterious dish that was born by a folk genius!
Try it somehow, it's very simple, but quite tasty.
To increase the amount of broth, you can add a little water to the milk.