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Do-it-yourself instructions for installing metal tiles. Step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles using special technology from a to z Do-it-yourself metal roofing installation

Metal tiles are produced on high-tech equipment from galvanized steel sheets. Sheets are coated with a primer, and then with a polymer coating. The polymer coating plays an important role in the characteristics of the metal tile - it is the texture, color, resistance to corrosion and weathering. The strength and rigidity of the metal tile is provided by the profiling method.

The main advantages of installing metal tiles:

  • durability, reliability, resistance to temperature extremes
  • long service life
  • Light weight, easy to transport and install
  • environmentally friendly building material
  • fire safety

A variety of color shades and a three-dimensional pattern give the metal tile an aesthetic appearance.

Metal roofing device

The truss system is the supporting structure of the roof. After the installation of this structure, the installation of the metal tile begins.

The device of the roof of the house from a metal tile.

Do-it-yourself metal tile installation instructions

How to cover a roof with a metal tile? You need to start with calculations.

Calculation of metal tiles on the roof

First of all, you need to do roof measurement using a long tape measure. Complex roof structures are broken down into individual sections and measured. The accuracy of calculating the required roofing material depends on the number of dimensions taken.

Further, each measured size must be divided by the width of the roofing sheet. It should be remembered that the metal tile is laid in an overlap. Therefore, only the useful width of the roofing sheet is taken into account.

Cutting metal tiles

For cutting, sheets of metal tiles must be laid on a flat, reliable base. Scissors suitable for cutting metal tiles:

  • cutting metal shears
  • cutting electric shears
  • scissors for metal lever.

In order to avoid the occurrence of corrosion, the places of cuts after cutting the metal tile must be treated with repair enamel.

Rules for fixing metal tiles

How to fix a metal tile? When installing the roof of a roof made of metal, apply special roofing screws up to 28 mm long. The self-tapping screw for a metal tile has a sealing washer and a hex head. A prerequisite for choosing self-tapping screws should be the color and service life exactly the same as roofing.

Self-tapping screws are screwed in with a screwdriver. A very important step is to catch the torque of the screwdriver. With insufficient screwing, the sealing washer of the self-tapping screw will not create a certain degree of sealing. If the self-tapping screw is excessively screwed in, the sealing washer is deformed, which threatens to weaken the fastening.

self-tapping screw must be attached to the bottom of the wave metal tiles. The rigidity of the upper part of the wave is not enough for a tight fit of the self-tapping screw with the sealing washer. At the top of the wave of the metal tile there is no junction area to roof structure. In this place, the self-tapping screw will simply crush the roofing sheet.

For one square meter of metal tiles, it is necessary to screw in 6-8 self-tapping screws. Roofing sheets are fastened together with shorter self-tapping screws.

Video instructions for installing metal tiles with your own hands will help you cover the roof.

One more detailed video on laying a roof from a metal tile with your own hands.

Valley installation

Functions of the valley when installing a roof made of metal:

  • protection of the joints of two slopes from atmospheric precipitation
  • reduction of rain and snow loads on roofing
  • improvement of the external aesthetic appearance of the roof.

The valley closes the space between the two roof joints. Distinguish between lower and upper valleys.

The lower valley is installed before the installation of the metal tile. Protects the under-roof space from moisture ingress.

The upper valley is attached over the sheets of metal. Serves mainly decorative element and gives the roof an aesthetic appearance. When fixing the upper valley with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to check that the middle of the lower valley is not damaged.

Valleys made of galvanized steel will extend the life of the roof.

Installation of a ridge on a metal roof for ventilation

warm air from interior spaces the house goes up. This contributes to the formation of moisture under the roof. To avoid such troubles, it is necessary to install the board on the ridge run. The board serves as a separator between the two halves of the roof. This is necessary so that the roof always gives off ventilation air from one side only. This function is performed ridge for metal roofing.

With the help of a ridge and a ridge board, the roof is designed so that each ventilation area discharges air into a separate channel.

Do-it-yourself installation of metal tiles must be carried out, observing all the above rules. Then for a long time it will not be necessary to repair and replace the roofing made of metal tiles.

Despite the fact that it is quite difficult to cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, and the work requires special care in execution, it is quite possible to complete them without outside help.

Construction of a truss system with an insulated attic

Since the mass of the metal roof is large enough, the rafter system under it must withstand significant pressure. For roof beams, bars are taken in sizes from 100x50 to 150x50mm with a wood moisture content of 22%.

The step between them is selected from 60 to 90 cm. If the system was originally built under a different roof and the step between the beams is higher than indicated, a reinforcing crate is stuffed across the beams.

Installation of roofing films, battens and cornice strips must be carried out with extreme care, carefully choosing materials. The strength and durability of the roof itself depends on the correct construction of the roofing "pie". It includes not only a rafter skeleton, but also a system of thermal and moisture protection.

Vapor barrier and insulation

From the inside of the rafters, with the help of stainless staples or nails, a vapor barrier is knocked out. It prevents the internal moisture of the house from entering the loose layer of insulating material. On top of the vapor barrier film, between the rafters, a heater is laid, for example, VAL-FLAX (Teplolen).

A waterproofing layer is laid on top of it, retaining water, but passing water vapor.

Features of the installation of waterproofing

The waterproofing is rolled out horizontally, parallel to the eaves, starting from the bottom. Each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one. The overlap is 150-200 mm. Waterproofing is attached to the rafters with wooden counter-battens. Their dimensions are 25*50 mm. Planks are sewn with nails or staples. Waterproofing should not be strongly stretched, otherwise it will break from temperature changes in length. The amount of sag in the canvas is about 10mm.

Roof waterproofing should not touch the insulation. The gap between it and the waterproofing membrane is 3-5 mm. This design allows moisture to flow down the membrane unhindered, directly into the gutter.

Lathing, valley and cornice plank

A crate is stuffed perpendicular to the counter-rails. The extreme purlin, installed along the cornice line, should have a height of 10-15 mm higher than the others. It serves as a stop for the bottom step of the first row of metal tiles. The bar rests against the protrusion formed by the bottom row of the profile picture. Due to this, the protruding cut of the sheet is located above the gutter.

The second purlin is installed at a distance from the height of the metal tile step profile. It should fall on the bottom of the first step. For the second and subsequent purlins, a bar is taken from 25x100 to 35x100 mm. The edges of the prepared crate are leveled, and the hanging ends are cut off.

Installation of the cornice strip

The cornice strip is stuffed over the first purlin in such a way as to protect the frontal board from moisture. It is fastened with galvanized nails at a distance of 300 mm from each other. The release of the lower edge of the waterproofing is freely laid on the cornice strip.

Valley installation

The valley is a metal V-shaped profile for laying in places of an internal break in the connection of the roof slopes. The valley protects the joints of the slopes from moisture getting under the roof and onto the insulation layer. Consists of two elements: upper and lower.

Lower - is mounted before laying the metal tile at the fracture site. It is through this element that water from the roof flows into the gutter. The upper valley is installed on top of the tiles and serves for decorative purposes. Both are attached with screws. When screwing the upper valley, it is imperative to check that the self-tapping screw does not get into the central part of the lower one. Mounting step - 300-500 mm.

Roof installation always starts from the bottom row. The best way- if the height of the sheet is equal to or longer than the height of the roof slope. Then the roof surface is covered in one pass, and the number of connecting seams on it is minimal.

Features of the structure of a sheet of metal

The right and left edges of the tiles have different profile heights. This is done for a better fit of the metal when overlapping. The manufacturer always indicates which edge is installed under the bottom, and which one - on top.

  1. The metal tile for the roof is quite heavy, so the sheets are fed up with the help of ropes along inclined boards. At the same time, it is important not to bend them, so it is better to lift them on two ropes, in four hands, respectively.
  2. When installing metal tiles with your own hands, fastening is done with roofing self-tapping screws, equipped with sealing polymer gaskets. The color of the screw is matched to the tone of the roof. It is impossible to nail a metal tile with nails - they are gradually loosened, the sheet begins to vibrate and collapse in this place.
  3. The lower edge of the sheet is installed with a protrusion of 50 mm. Then the moisture flows from the roof directly into the gutter and does not fall on the wall of the building.
  4. The first two or three sheets are recommended to be pre-grabbed to the ridge for one screw. After leveling the bottom line and adjusting the relative position of the sheets, they are thoroughly reinforced with screws along the entire length. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the lower part of the profile wave, and in places of overlap - along the crest.
  5. 6-8 attachment points are needed per square meter of sheet. At the edges, along the eaves of the roof and at the ridge, the fastening is done through the wave. Along the overlap line - under each peppered crest of the pattern.

End plate

Such a bar is screwed to the end board. The latter should protrude above the roof lathing to the height of the profile according to the pattern of the metal sheet. The top and side plank is attached to the end board. At the joints, the overlap of adjacent elements should be from 7 to 10 millimeters.

The chimney bypass is made of metal to match the color of the roof tiles. Usually the outline is made of 4 elements - right, left, bottom and top. Depending on the design, it can be a simple top or bottom.

In the first case, the bypass is laid under the tiles. Its design provides for a special groove that diverts water to the drain. The places where the apron is attached to the pipe are covered with a special sealant with a high level of heat resistance, for example, Loktite, Henkel, Macroflex.

The upper contour is laid on top of the roof tiles. The place of contact with the chimney must also be sealed, as well as top part(to prevent water from entering the tile profile). It is advisable to sew the bypass apron to the chimney with metal dowels.

Ridge rail installation

The ridge strip of the roof is an important element of the ventilation of the under-roof space. It protects metal and wooden elements from moisture and is a very important condition for the long life of the roof. Under-roof air, heated by the heat of the roof, naturally rises from the eaves to the ridge.

There it goes outside through technological ventilation gaps. Manufacturers of metal tiles offer various designs ridge elements and give their recommendations for their installation. The fastening of the roof ridge is done with self-tapping screws in increments of 300-400 mm along the crests of the sheet profile waves. The overlap of adjacent ridge strips is 7-10 mm.

Outcome

Work with metal roofing is considered one of the most expensive. Therefore, many owners of private houses cover the roof on their own. Do-it-yourself assembled metal tile roof will thank the owners with reliability and many years of trouble-free service.

If you do not decide on an independent installation and entrust it to a specialist, then the knowledge gained will allow you to control the process and the skills of the workers, which as a result can become a guarantee of the quality of your home in the future.

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

Drawings and diagrams of a metal roof

crate

For reliable fixation of the roofing, you will need to prepare a strong and reliable crate. It consists of wooden planks, determines the slope of the roof. For optimal drainage of precipitation, it is recommended to install rafters with an angle of more than 14-15 degrees. Additional jumpers must be installed between the three extreme boards. This will give the gable roof structure greater strength and protect against strong gusts of wind.

The next step is the laying of a vapor barrier material. Izospan vapor barrier has proven itself quite well. The material allows for real quality installation roofs made of metal, excluding the accumulation of moisture under the roof and the destruction of wood elements.

Before mounting the counter-lattice, it is necessary to prepare the used bars and boards. You will need to cover the elements with an antiseptic to maximize the service life. Then the bars are attached directly to the rafters.

Step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles

Proceed to the installation of metal tiles should be after installing the brackets. They are exposed under the level, attached to the bottom board.

Gutters are installed on the brackets, a dropper is mounted.

The dropper is closed with waterproofing.

1. The first sheet of metal roofing is lifted (work starts from the edge), fixed in the upper part.

2. The sheet is screwed to the boards using roofing screws (along the entire length and width).

3. The second sheet is lifted, it is superimposed on the first (enough overlap for 1 strip). Fixed in the same way.

4. The rest of the sheets are being laid, up to the edge of the roof.

5. Work according to a similar instruction is performed for the second side of the roof.

The next step is to install the skate.

For its even location, it is necessary to pull the thread between the gables.

Completion of work

In addition to information on how to mount a metal roof, the contractor must remember the need for high-quality closing of the end walls of the roof. For work, you will need to use OSB boards. They are lightweight and ideal for construction. frame house. It is necessary to mount the plates from the inside - the attic.

Initially, the contractor will need to take measurements and make markings on the slab, according to which it will be cut. First of all, the side parts of a triangular shape are harvested. After their installation, the lower and upper parts are adjusted. It is important to consider that in the attic you need to leave a hole for the subsequent installation of the window. As soon as the last parts of the plates are installed, the assembly gable roof ends. For a detailed study of all the stages described, from the fastening of the insulating layer to the moment of closing the end walls, it is recommended to additionally view the attached photo and video tips.

Do-it-yourself metal tile installation video


For country houses and private buildings, an excellent and inexpensive, but at the same time, metal roofing has become an attractive option. Specifications profiles allow the roof to withstand frost, sun, water and wind. At the same time, the imitation of natural tiles noticeably ennobles the building. About how to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands and what features the laying of a metal tile carries in itself, we analyze in the article below.

Before proceeding with the installation of a roof made of metal tiles, the technology of which, in principle, is not complicated, several important requirements must be taken into account:

  • So, the laying of metal tiles should be carried out on slopes, the slope angle of which is not less than 14 degrees.
  • If the length of the roof slope is less than 6 m, then it is possible to lay the material in continuous sheets, avoiding horizontal overlaps. If the length of the slope exceeds 6-7 m, then you will have to cut the sheets across and assemble the roof covering in two rows with horizontal overlaps, which is desirable to avoid.
  • If there is an old coating on the roof, then it must be dismantled.
  • The fastening of the metal tile begins from the side opposite to the prevailing wind direction in the region. So they assemble the roof with their own hands according to the technology.
  • The installation of a roof made of metal tiles (fixing the sheet) is always carried out in the depressions between the waves in those places where they are adjacent to the beams of the crate.
  • In overlaps, a profile sheet is attached to each recess.
  • The very first bottom sheet of the profile is fixed with self-tapping screws above the protrusion of the profile (above the imaginary tile). That is, towards you. Such a metal tile installation will allow the entire roof to withstand significant wind loads.
  • The remaining profile sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws under the profile bend, that is, in the direction away from you. This place is the most rigid in the metal tile sheet and, in addition, in this way, the caps of the fasteners are located in the shadow of the protrusions, which means they are less visible from the ground.

Important: before roofing works the evenness of the roof slopes should be measured diagonally. If there is a skew, then the roof can be leveled with the help of a crate, otherwise the metal tile installation of which is carried out will form an uneven coating.

Calculation of material for roofing

In order for a roof made of metal tiles to be assembled quickly, and most importantly without downtime, it is necessary to correctly calculate the amount of coverage. To do this, you need to measure the length of one slope and its width. The width of the overhang is divided by the useful width of the profile sheet (minus 5-10 cm for overlaps). Thus, the required number of sheets for one slope is obtained, provided that its length does not exceed 6 m. If the slope is larger, then the amount of% by which the length of the slope exceeds the 6-meter value is added to the obtained value. In this case, the fastening of the metal tile will be carried out in two horizontal rows.

The device of a roof from a metal tile demands high-quality and exact installation of a lathing under it. Since the frame is the main skeleton that contributes to the durability and strength of the roof. In order for the device of the roof under the metal tile to proceed correctly, you need to act in this way step by step:

  • First, cornice overhangs are mounted along the edges of the roof rafters. They are the main element in the crate, since they will take on the main (fixing) load from the entire coating. The overhang is made from a board with a section of 100x50 mm. It is nailed along the edge of the rafter legs.
  • Now a waterproofing material (membrane coating) is laid over the entire roof. At the same time, if the device of a roof made of metal tiles passes through a complex structure (hip roof), then the waterproofing is first laid on the valleys, and then horizontal rolls of the coating are rolled out over all the slopes. The joints are glued with waterproofing tape SP1.
  • As soon as the waterproofing is laid, proceed to fixing the counter-lattice. For its installation, a bar with a section of 5x5 cm is used. All bars are stuffed strictly along the rafter legs. The distance between the overhang and the counter-lattice beam is closed with a special ventilation mesh, which will prevent the penetration of birds into the under-roof space.
  • Holders for the drainage system are installed on the mounted bars of the counter-lattice. Each of them must be bent with a bend so that the drain forms a slope of 3 mm per linear meter.
  • Then we fill a beam along the eaves, which will be slightly higher than the boards of the main crate. Such an element will act as a fixation for the lower profile of the metal tile.
  • On the gables, a plank is installed with pre-marked markings. The markup should have a marking pitch equal to the height of each tile on the profile sheet. Nails for the control cord should be driven into the marks. At the same time, it is important that the markings have a protrusion of 5-7 cm for the overhang of the roof by a third of the width of the drain channel. Do-it-yourself installation will be accurate.
  • A control cord is pulled along the installed marking bars on the gables. And already on it boards of a counter-lattice with a section of 32x100 mm are stuffed. The evenness of the crate is checked by a level.
  • Next, the marking beam is dismantled and the wind board is stuffed along the gables. It should rise somewhat above the boards of the main crate and eventually become flush with the laid metal tile.
  • It remains to install the drip and fix the pre-assembled gutter system.

Important: before installing the crate, all wooden elements must be treated with antiseptics and flame retardants to prevent decay.

Advice: at the junction of the metal tiles to the pipes, in the valleys and along the edge of the wind board, it is desirable to make a continuous crate.

Cutting and preparation of coating sheets

If you do not know how to make a roof from a metal tile and at the same time want to install a metal tile with your own hands, then first of all you need to understand how roof fragments are prepared. First of all, you need to learn that in most cases the length of one sheet of coating is enough for the entire length of the overhang. That is, here it is necessary to lay the roof of metal tiles exclusively in vertical rows. If there is a need to cut the material, then this is done with special electric scissors, but not with a grinder. At work diamond disc the profile sheet will be very hot, which will lead to damage to the polymer protective coating a few cm down from the cut point. And when it is peeled off, the metal tile sheet will corrode. In addition, sparks from cutting tool can damage the polymer on the rest of the sheet. Therefore, this roofing technology is incorrect.

It is worth knowing that the weight of the roof is only 4-4.5 kg / m2. That is why the technology of roofing from metal tiles allows you to lift the roof covering in the amount of several sheets at the same time. They are stacked and lifted to the roof along the rails installed from the ground up.

Important: if you want to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands, then remember that it is forbidden to work in windy weather, since the roof sheet has a large windage. Such an incorrect installation of the profile can lead to both injury to the master and damage to the roof. This guideline principle should be followed to cover the roof safely.

Laying metal roofing

Important: for those who do not know how to lay a metal tile with their own hands, the instruction should know that before starting the installation of the roof, the roof must be grounded. Since the metal profile conducts current very well.

Advice: if a metal tile is being installed on a hipped roof of a house, then the installation of the profile starts from the top peak of the slope on both sides of it. In other cases, a metal roof is laid from below, from right to left, according to the principle of laying standard slate. Such roofingwill be durable.

  • Step-by-step instruction says that the first sheet of the coating is laid end-to-end with the wind bar and the supporting cornice beam. Having grabbed the sheet with self-tapping screws in two or three places, it is carefully leveled. And then tightly fixed with fasteners. There should be 6-8 self-tapping screws with dense rubber washers per 1 m2 of roofing. At the same time, along the edges of the crate, the profile is fixed through each wave.
  • When joining sheets vertically, it is necessary to ensure that the drip grooves are covered with an overlap of the next adjacent profile.
  • All self-tapping screws must be screwed in with a screwdriver at low speeds of the cartridge.

Installation of metal tiles in the valley

If you don’t know how to cover the roofs with metal tiles with your own hands on complex configurations, cover the sloping roof of the house, then you need to lay the coating from the valley. This roof element is assembled like this:

  • On both sides of the valley, a timber is stuffed with an indent from the corner of 10-15 cm.
  • The plastic strips of the valley with an overlap are stuffed onto the timber. All joints are sealed with tape. Such a technology for covering the roof with metal tiles will be correct.
  • And only after that they lay the metal tile. At the end of the work, the valleys, as a rule, are covered with decorative strips in the color of the coating. Lay them also with an overlap, from the bottom up.

Tip: now you know how to cover the roof with metal tiles. However, you cannot do the job on your own. At least to speed up the coating workmetal tile roofshands get someone's help.