What seeds are better to buy for seedlings. How to choose the right seeds: the definition of quality. Avoid impulse purchases

09.03.2020

No one will argue that the basis of a good harvest is high-quality seed material. At least 50% of the success of the entire season depends on this. If you are trying your hand at gardening for the first time, then you will need to purchase the seeds (although, of course, you can also use what more experienced farmers - relatives or friends - will offer). But by the next year, you will come fully armed, leaving for the seeds those fruits that you liked the most and that you want to constantly have in your collection, looking closely at what is sold in specialized stores, reading the relevant literature and acquiring what seems most interesting. and promising.

You will learn on the pages of our website, but first you need to learn how to choose the right seeds in the store, what to look for first of all when buying them. Here it is important to choose not only the seeds, but also the seller, or rather the manufacturer. On the Russian market there are several well-established seed suppliers, whose names are on everyone's lips, that do not need advertising. Their material has been tested and conforms to the attached description. Therefore, it makes sense to dwell on more pressing issues.

Indicators of sowing and varietal qualities of seeds

When deciding which seeds to choose, you need to pay close attention to their sowing and varietal qualities.

Sowing qualities of seeds include:

purity (degree of contamination with impurities);
humidity (it should not exceed 8%);
germination energy (number of seeds germinated after a certain period of time);
germination (the number of seeds germinated after the "maximum allotted time");
the degree of infestation by diseases and pests.

According to sowing quality indicators, seeds are divided into classes I and II.

To determine the quality of seeds of popular horticultural crops, read the table below.

Table of seed quality indicators

Name of culture	Class	Germination	Class	Germination
Watermelon	I	95%	II	80%
Eggplant	I	75%	II	60%
Peas	I	95%	II	90%
Melon	I	90%	II	75%
vegetable marrow	I	95%	II	80%
Squash	I	95%	II	80%
White cabbage	I	90%	II	60%
Bow-batun	I	80%	II	60%
Carrot	I	70%	II	45%
Cucumber	I	90%	II	70%
Parsnip	I	70%	II	45%
Sweet pepper	I	70%	II	60%
Parsley	I	70%	II	45%
Tomato	I	85%	II	65%
Radish	I	85%	II	65%
radish	I	85%	II	65%
head salad	I	80%	II	65%
leaf lettuce	I	80%	II	65%
Beet	I	80%	II	60%
Celery	I	75%	II	50%
Pumpkin	I	95%	II	80%
Dill	I	60%	II	40%
Sorrel	I	80%	II	60%

As can be seen from the table, it is preferable to use class I seeds for sowing, which give a higher percentage of germination.

Varietal qualities of seeds are also of great importance. Their determination is carried out in seed farms, where the approbation method establishes how the crops correspond to the varietal description, etc. On this basis, a conclusion is made about the grade category according to GOST. AT Russian Federation a national standard has been developed - GOST 52171-2003 “Seeds of vegetable, melon crops, fodder root crops and fodder cabbage. Varietal and sowing qualities. General technical conditions". Seeds that have passed standardization are packaged and sold. If you do not know how to choose the right seeds for planting, purchase only the seed that meets GOST.

How to choose the right seeds in the store

When you come to the store, for obvious reasons, you can get confused: a large number of multi-colored bags act literally bewitching and makes you want to buy everything, well, or almost everything. But here lies the danger, because in a fit you can buy something completely different from what you need. How to choose seeds in the store in order to purchase high-quality seed? First of all, you should restrain your emotions and look at the matter from a practical point of view. Picking up a bag that attracted attention with a catchy name or unusual design Read the information on the back of it.

Before choosing seeds, see if the package says:

the name of the culture;
name of the variety or hybrid (a brief description of the characteristics of cultivation);
lot number;
weight or number of seeds;
name and number of the document confirming the varietal and sowing characteristics of seeds;
GOST;
expiration date of seeds;
name and address of the manufacturer.

If any of the above is missing, this should cause you some concern, as it is the first sign that the contents of the bag may not meet all the requirements for product quality. As a rule, a responsible producer who cares about his reputation does not hide anything, on the contrary, he tries to interest the potential buyer as much as possible both by listing all the advantages of a given variety or hybrid, and by brief, but quite comprehensive information about when to sow seeds for seedlings, through how long it can be transplanted into open or closed ground and other useful information.

Now you know how to choose good seeds, and if nothing left you in doubt, the proposed culture fully meets your wishes regarding the ripening period, color and size of the fruit, then you can safely go to the checkout and pay for the purchase.

The choice of seeds in packages that exists today can confuse even an experienced summer resident. Growers offer many varieties and hybrids, beautifully packaged, with promising names. How to deal with this a wide range and buy seeds right?

Our portal has already told you how to collect and save seeds on your own. However, not all owners of gardens and orchards are engaged in this painstaking work. Many people prefer to buy ready-made seeds to save time or just try new varieties, update their beds, try their hand at growing interesting crops.

First rule when buying seeds in packages - planning. Spontaneous purchases, of course, are not excluded, maybe the seller will convince you or the description of the variety on the package will turn out to be very attractive. However, it is better to decide in advance what exactly you need: tomatoes early variety, cucumbers for canning, late cabbage, fragrant night violet and so on.

Second rule- Purchases are best done in specialized stores. There are several good reasons for this:

Specialized retail outlets cooperate with many manufacturers that have their own breeding nurseries and laboratories. Much less likely to purchase a fake, and more choice.
Sellers will be able to give detailed advice, talk about the features of a particular variety, provide information about the manufacturer.
Such stores strictly monitor expiration dates, labeling, and properly store bags of seeds.

Third rule- carefully read the information on the package. To clarify, before delving into what is written on the bag of seeds, inspect the package itself. It must be intact, durable, of high quality, without damage even to the top layer. Now let's find out what the manufacturer should tell us:

Information about yourself. Not only the name, but also contact numbers, e-mail - the buyer should be able to contact the manufacturer.
Expiry date, packaging date, crop year.
The name of the plant, including Latin, according to the State Register.
Short description varieties, rules for planting seeds, features of agricultural technology. It is clear that you can’t write much on a small bag, but the most important nuances and characteristics of the crop must be specified.
The number or mass of seeds. If the mass of seeds is indicated on the package, then you can roughly imagine how many of them there are in pieces. For example, in 1 gram of small seeds of lettuce, carrots, parsley, celery - 600-1000 pieces. Medium-sized seeds, such as peppers, tomatoes, cabbage and onions, will have about 150-400 pieces in one gram. Large seeds, like beans or zucchini, are no more than 10 pieces in 1 gram, and melons, cucumbers, radishes, parsnips - up to 100 pieces in 1 gram.
Seed lot number.
Compliance with GOST, TU, OST. Such instructions indicate that the seeds have passed all the necessary checks and meet the approved standards.

It is important to know that first generation hybrids are referred to as F1, first generation varietal seeds S1, mother form or sterile analogue - A.

Advice! Choose seeds from different manufacturers and different varieties. So you will be more likely to get good harvest, even if in one of the packages the seeds show low germination.

Fourth rule- do not buy seeds back to back, let there be a small supply. In this case, if your carrots did not sprout well, you can re-sow the seeds of the same variety.

Fifth Rule- you should be especially careful with exotic and imported seeds, you can check whether such a variety is exactly in the State Register, otherwise it may turn out that the "Giant Celery Eggplant" simply does not exist. For imported seeds, the date should be checked especially carefully - they are often expired.

Do not store seeds purchased this season for a long time. Firstly, they need special storage conditions, and secondly, in the second year, germination may become worse, and new varieties will appear on the market. By the way, experts advise buying seeds in bags in winter, when freshly harvested crops of the last harvest go on sale.

Choose the right seeds and let the result of your spring labors please the whole family!

Gardeners do not have winter holidays. Harvested, tidied up the site - and start preparing for the new season. Plan future plantings and go for seeds. You should seize the moment to acquire them before the start of the spring hype, slowly, with feeling, really, with arrangement. After all, among the many influencing the harvest in the garden, seeds are crucial.

What you need to know about seed quality

The quality of seeds of vegetable and flower crops is determined by sowing and varietal indicators. Sowing include: purity (the degree of contamination with impurities), humidity (should not exceed 8%), germination energy (viability) and - the most important indicator - germination (the number of germinated grains after the maximum allotted time). As well as the degree of infestation by pests and diseases. All of them are determined in specially equipped laboratories and are expressed as a percentage. Then these data are indicated on each batch of seeds entering the wholesale warehouses for further packaging and sale.

Seeds with sowing rates below the norms established by GOST should not go on sale.

No less important are varietal qualities. They are installed in the fields during the flowering of crops by testing. Varietal purity is determined by the ratio of the number of plants typical for a given variety to the total number of plants of the cultivated crop (in percent). As a result, the grade category is established in accordance with GOST. Seeds with a grading category below the standards established by GOST should not be sold as varietal seeds.

Note

To purchase seed as much as you need, you can use these calculation standards. For 10 square meters of area it is necessary: white cabbage - 12-15 g, tomato and pepper - 2-3 g, cucumber - 6-8 g, pumpkin - 3-4 g, watermelon 2-3 g, melon 1.5- 2 g, black onions - 6-10 g, garlic - 500-600 g, carrots - 4-6 g, parsley - 8-10 g, table beets - 10-12 g, radishes - 17-23 g, potatoes - 2.5-4 kg, beans - 90-150 g, spinach - 24-60 g, dill - 30 g.

Secret materials

The guarantee that the seeds of each tested batch correspond to sowing and varietal qualities is confirmed by a certificate issued by a special state body, without which the sale is impossible. Everything seems to be under control, and we, the buyers, have nothing to worry about. But in reality it turns out not quite so.

On a note:

Sowing qualities of seeds strongly depend on storage conditions. They should wait in the wings in a dry and cool place. Ideal air humidity is not higher than 10%, constant temperature - from 0°С to +5°С (differences are not allowed).

In accordance with current legislation Russian Federation, the buyer has the right to demand, and the seller, upon first request, is obliged to provide documents confirming the varietal identity of a batch of seeds or planting material as well as their quality. However, it is not so easy for an ordinary buyer to see the original certificate. This document should be stored at the seed warehouse (base). At the point of sale, packaged seeds are accompanied by a summary certificate for them, which is already issued by the seller himself. And the owner, as you know, is a gentleman. It is clear that he is responsible for the accuracy of the data entered in the certificate. But painfully profitable business - the sale of seeds. Therefore, reliable data on the quality of seeds are sometimes turned into secret materials or are replaced by more advantageous ones.

On a note:

The seed certificate must contain information about the quality of the seeds sold, the year of harvest, as well as the date of the last germination test and its validity period.

Therefore, when going to buy seeds for seedlings, remember:

It is safer to purchase seeds from manufacturers with a good reputation, whose brands have been on the market for a long time. Seeds cannot be faked, but they can be replaced with expired, spoiled or off-grade ones. It is unprofitable only for well-known manufacturers to stain their name by selling fakes.
Not a guarantee, but at least - there are chances for seeds to match when the company package contains: the name, address and telephone number of the seller; name of culture, its variety; standard designation; lot number; weight in a bag (in grams or in pieces); the expiration date (shelf life) of seeds indicating the day, month and year.
If you persist and you still get a certificate, then by comparing the batch number and variety name with the data in it, you will find out the germination and energy of seed germination, the validity of the document.
At the same time, please note that the certificate usually indicates laboratory germination and germination energy.
Their real (field) value is usually lower by 10-20%. Therefore, having bought celery with 45% seed germination, you will actually see 20-25 seedlings out of 100 pieces in the garden.
The expiration date indicated on the package (for example, until 12. 2014) means that after its expiration it is forbidden to continue to sell the seeds according to the law. Some companies, in addition to the expiration date, may also contain the packing date (for example, 11/07/2013). The expiration date for seeds packaged in paper bags is set from the date of packaging of the current year to the end of the next year. But if the package is double or metallized, then the shelf life in this doubles and lasts from the date of packaging of the current year until the end of the second year of implementation.

Many gardeners confuse this indicator with seed germination. But these are completely different things.

Therefore, if you bought tomato or cucumber seeds in the spring and they proved to be productive with excellent taste, and at the same time they also had excellent germination, then at the end of the season you can buy them for the next one, even if the seeds expire, for example , in December this year.

For reference

In 1 g of seeds of pumpkin, zucchini, beans, beans, peas, watermelon, there are from 1 to 10 pieces; cucumber - 40-60 pieces; table beet - 50-90 pcs., tomato - 250-300 pcs., sweet pepper - 160-180 pcs., eggplant - 150 pcs., radish - 100-120 pcs., cabbage - 250-300 pcs., parsley and carrots - 800-900 pieces, lettuce - 600-1000 pieces.

But the seeds of parsley, dill, celery, parsnips, sorrel, asparagus, remontant strawberries, asters quickly lose their germination.

Therefore, they must be bought from a new crop (obtained in the fall), they usually still have a characteristic smell. At the same time, keep in mind that most companies before the new year are post-harvest refinement of seeds, determining their quality, paperwork. They usually go on sale in late January - February.

We choose a seed variety to be with the harvest

Breeders, working on the creation of new varieties and hybrids, achieve their maximum adaptability to certain climatic conditions. Before they are allowed for use, newly bred varieties and hybrids are tested for 2-3 years at specially organized sites, where they are evaluated for yield, early maturity, suitability for processing, taste, resistance to pests and diseases, etc.

A variety or hybrid that has shown the best results in all respects is approved by the State Variety Testing Commission for zoning in a region with similar natural and climatic conditions.

A cultivar may fail the test because it is not suitable for machine harvesting, or is not succulent, or has fruits that are too large. For example, varieties of eggplants and peppers, watermelons and melons, zoned in the middle lane, not so long ago did not exist at all. Imagine if summer residents were waiting for those to appear. As they say, who does not take risks, he does not eat eggplant.

What you sow is what you reap

AT last years more and more hybrid seeds appear on the shelves. Outwardly, except for the F1 icon in front of the variety name, their packages are no different. But the price of hybrid seeds is much higher.

So that you know

A not entirely correct opinion has developed that it is impossible to get good seeds from F1 hybrids. Yes, sometimes they do not produce them at all or the seeds do not ripen. Quite often, however, F1 hybrids produce good seeds. But subsequent generations turn out to be quite “diverse” and in their properties can be more like grandparents, while losing the high yield that distinguished the first generation F1.

A common variety is a group of plants of the same species with common characteristics. Varietal seeds are obtained as a result of free self-pollination or cross-pollination of plants. The harvest from them can also be heterogeneous: greens of different lengths, cabbage heads of various sizes, and tomatoes differ in brightness of color.

On a note

Get hybrid seeds every time anew, crossing maternal and paternal varieties or lines. "Daddy" and "mother" are specially selected so that they are guaranteed to produce very productive children: even in size, fruitful, resistant to disease. The designation F1 indicates that this is the first hybrid generation resulting from such a special cross.

The most important feature of the variety is its ability to retain all its positive and negative properties in the next offspring.

So which is better: varieties or hybrids?

Hybrids have many advantages, but they usually require a special cultivation technology: high soil fertility and mineral nutrition, greenhouses or film shelters, and, if necessary, special plant formation. Only then will all their virtues be revealed.

Varieties, as a rule, are less whimsical, resistant to many diseases, grow normally and give a good harvest without film shelters.

You need to choose what suits you best. Personally, hybrids do not always suit me. palatability especially for tomatoes. Things are simpler with peppers and eggplants: both varieties and hybrids are tasty. But I don’t particularly chase after the latter, since I often harvest pepper seeds myself, choosing from the fruits I like. And if I buy, then only something new or exotic. BUT hybrid varieties eggplants other times come across very heat-loving, and even without pinching and garters, they don’t particularly indulge in productivity.

But I sow cucumbers, cabbage, zucchini and sweet corn mainly with hybrid seeds. Moreover, I prefer bee-pollinated hybrids of cucumbers. No matter how anyone praises parthenocarpics, greens with black pimples and seeds inside are tastier and healthier. And for salting - what you need. Parthenocarpics, if good, are only for the first salads, until the bees fly.

Even high-quality seed material cannot be a 100% guarantee of strong seedlings if you do not know the intricacies of growing seedlings. Igor DUNICHEV, a reader from Kaluga, tells about his experiences, observations and conclusions on working with seeds and seedlings.

Do I need to remove the shell from the seeds?

No matter how correctly we sow, often seeds during germination bring cotyledons to the surface, from which the seed coat has not been shed. Left on the seedling, it can lead to the death or significant stunting of this plant. So, we need to help him get rid of this shell. But how? After all, sometimes she sits very tightly. In the specialized literature, it is recommended to drop water on a dry shell. It will soften and peel off easily.

In fact, if you try this, you will see that the drops will either run off or dry up after a few minutes. And the shell will sit firmly on the plant. If you try to remove it by force, you can cut off the cotyledons, and then you will have to say goodbye to the plant.
My advice is simple. The earth in the cup, where such a defective seedling appeared, should be poured with plenty of water and put in a plastic bag. 100% humidity is created in it, the seed coat is completely softened and after a few hours it is painlessly shed. In the worst case, you need only the slightest effort to release the seedlings.

Is it worth it to help the sprout?

There are seeds that really need scarification (damage to the shell) in order to germinate. But here are the tips to carry out this operation in relation to, for example, some pumpkins I consider simply harmful. The seeds of these crops should germinate on their own.
I can compare this process with birth - a baby experiences stress during natural childbirth, which helps him quickly adapt to new living conditions. The experiments that I conducted on pumpkin crops fully confirmed this law of life: sprouts that sprouted without scarification turned out to be stronger.

Which soil is best

It is very important to take into account the concentration of salts (fertilizers) in the soil. For young plants, the amount of fertilizer should be small: no more than 50-150 mg / l. Many gardeners are surprised at how poorly their seedlings develop, or even die. And did they look at the labeling of bags with soil when buying? After all, seedlings have a very thin
a root that is not ready to use soil saturated with salts of fertilizers. Therefore, for different cultures, at different stages of vegetation, I add the appropriate amount of fertilizer.

Is it permissible to add earth from the garden to the composition of the soil?

We have to hear negative answers. I cannot agree with this. The main argument of opponents is the presence of diseases in such a land. But if you grow seedlings in sterile soil, and then plant them in a garden bed, where they will encounter hitherto unseen bacteria and other chemical composition soil, the stress will be so strong that adaptation will be difficult. Therefore, young plants should gradually prepare for life in the garden.

How to increase germination?

Seeds of some crops (pepino, naran-hills, etc.) germinate for a long time: from 7 to 30 days pass before pecking. And when sowing seedlings in the soil, you can
1 and don't wait. To ensure germination, I use a special germination.
For sowing seeds I use plastic jar, on the bottom of which I put a napkin white color. After moistening it, I sow the seeds, close the jar with a transparent lid and put it in a warm place. After pecking the first seed, I place the jar under a fluorescent lamp. Every day for 10-20 seconds I open the lid to ventilate and moisten the drying paper. Until the full disclosure of two cotyledons, I keep the seeds in conditions of round-the-clock illumination. And after opening them, I dive the plants into seedlings in 4 * 4 cm cups.

Winter cold should not relax summer residents and gardeners. It's time to clean up your seed piles, temporarily acting not so much as the father (mother) of your seeds, but as an impartial alien uncle-auditor...

And then, after all, summer residents will choose to land best seeds carrots and tomatoes, and store them together with the dead 8-12 years ago in one container. And then what. by April? Green mold grows in lush color in pumpkin and cucumber seeds, white worms come out of artichoke and scorzonera seeds, and red worms come out of carrot seeds. The natives of cilantro seeds are already jumping on the walls.

CONCLUSION: store seeds of different collection periods in different containers (preferably in polypropylene) and even in different rooms; after all, pests can jump some eight or nine meters - just spit, they are all right with a scent. Time to put them in the trash!

Yes, and outwardly good seeds, incomplete and slightly damaged, often form weakened plants that give low yields. When immersed in a solution table salt(40 g per 1 liter of water) they float within 4 minutes (except for tomato seeds, they require an hourly check). For sowing, seeds that have settled to the bottom are used after washing with water in a strainer.

To prevent fungal diseases, all seeds must be treated either immediately before sowing, or 3-4 months before it.

Seeds of radish, cabbage, pepper, eggplant are placed in gauze bags and immersed in water with a temperature of 50-52°C for 20 minutes. Then they are “blanched” for 2 minutes in cold (14-16 ° C) water, scattered in a thin layer on paper and dried to a state of flowability so as not to reduce germination (experiment with cabbage with caution, treated seeds are not stored for more than a year!).
The cabbage variety Slava is good, but vascular bacteriosis can finish it ahead of time. Therefore, for prevention, its seeds are kept for an hour in garlic juice, diluted with water 1: 3, followed by drying.

It is useful to treat the seeds of tomatoes and cucumbers with a solution of methylene blue (or ethacridine from a pharmacy) during the day at 18 ° C. 1 g of "blue" dissolved in 4 liters of water is enough to disinfect a glass of seeds. After processing, the seeds are dried, but not washed! Also, do not wash the seeds of tomatoes and carrots when processing Kalanchoe juice (6 hours at room temperature for umbrella and about a day for tomatoes). When soaking for 6-8 hours, micronutrient fertilizers practically do not enter the dormant seed, so do not rely on this procedure too much. Only zinc and vitamin B1 are important at the moment.

Take 0.5 g of zinc sulfate and one ampoule of vitamin B1 (thiamine chloride) and dissolve them in 0.4 liters of boiled water. In such a solution, immediately before sowing, the seeds of tomatoes, peppers and eggplants are kept for 16 hours, then dried and sown, dusted with YuKA-2.

You can simply pour 10-12 g of seeds on the bottom of a half-liter jar and “toss” 4-5 mashed cloves of garlic to them. Without access to air, garlic will kill all surface infections on cabbage seeds in 1.5 days.
Seeds of carrots, onions, beets for the prevention of dry and black rot are heated in water at 52 ° C for 15 minutes, as mentioned above for other types of vegetables, but in this case the seeds can also be stored later.
Beans for protection against anthracnose (pod spotting) are disinfected for 20 minutes in water at 47°C.

Plants of the pumpkin family, of course, are too early to pickle now, they quickly lose their germination capacity from dampness. But for mid-April, keep in mind that it is better to warm them up for three days at 52 ° C, but not on the battery, where the temperature can go off scale, but in the kitchen, closer to the ceiling.

As a reward for its gifts, even the most fertile land requires payment in the form of hard work. However, what a disappointment when all the efforts made respond with a fruitless emptiness. Often the root of the problem is unsuitable planting material. Today we will tell you how to choose seeds and not regret it.

The right approach to choosing seeds begins with planning future plantings and marking the land. This is necessary in order to protect yourself from rash purchases and subsequent reflections on where to define a spontaneous purchase. This is especially true for those for whom gardening is a hobby. Farmers, for whom the land is a source of subsistence, tend to be more responsible in organizing planting work.

In addition, you need to choose seeds based on the characteristics environment, namely:

climatic conditions;
soil composition;
locations and also individual characteristics landing area.

This means that one should not ignore the zoning of culture, falling for the bait of a beautiful image. The plant is able to reveal its potential only under conditions determined by competent specialists, thanks to long-term tests. The same rule applies to exotic specimens. The discrepancy between the microclimate and the nuances of care can lead to disappointment.

It is advisable to seek advice on the selection of suitable seeds from more experienced neighbors in summer cottage. First, the similar composition of the land and general conditions will make these tips as relevant as possible. Secondly, you can personally observe the growth and yield of certain plant varieties.

The purchase of planting material must be justified not only by the above factors, but also by:

the appointment of the future harvest;
its quantity;
indicators of keeping quality;
taste value.

How good the choice turns out to be depends on the purpose of growing, whether for personal use or for sale.

Video "Selection of seeds and planting seedlings"

From this video you will learn how to choose the right seeds and plant seedlings.

Packaging quality

Making a specific purchase like seeds is partly like a lottery. This can be justified by the fact that the buyer does not actually see the product itself, and also cannot look into the future. Therefore, such acquisitions are often based on trust in the manufacturer's reputation.

The main factor responsible for right choice seed, is the packaging. The first thing you should pay attention to is the quality of the material and printing work. The paper must be thick and intact, and images and inscriptions must be clear. In addition, the packaging must provide the consumer with the following information:

name, logo and contacts of the manufacturer;
the name of a variety identical to that in the lists of the state register;
a description of the representative of the culture, as well as an indication of the main agrotechnical requirements for planting and care;
the number of seeds. Indicated in pieces or grams;
product batch number;
abbreviation of compliance with state standards;
packaging date and expiration date.

Speaking about the shelf life of the material, it is worth clarifying that this is rather a guarantee of germination that the manufacturer gives for his products. So, some seeds may be suitable for planting for ten years. At the same time, some summer residents, in order to save money, purchase expired goods and reanimate them with stimulants.

Where is the best place to buy

Specialty stores are always the main source of quality products. This also includes online stores belonging to the main trading network. Such establishments are distinguished by increased quality control of products, as well as necessary conditions for its storage.

In addition, the owners of agricultural networks directly cooperate with seed suppliers, and also have the necessary documentation containing information on the quality characteristics of the product. The big plus of specialty stores are their employees. Competent consultants will help you choose the right seeds that meet the requirements of the client.

It is advisable to bypass the market, as street vendors are not able to provide the conditions necessary for storing goods, which is common cause his damage. In addition, there is a high probability of acquiring material for sowing, which at best will produce the wrong variety at the end. As an exception, there may be verified market points, which are premises equipped for specific trade.

hybrid seeds

Hybrid plants are characterized by the fact that they take the best from their "parents". In addition, these are the only crops that allow you to collect a uniform crop, consisting of fruits of the same color, size and shape. The fact that the direct heir of several varieties will grow from the purchased seeds is indicated by the “F1” mark on the package. Sometimes the letter “S” can be found on the bag, which says that the contents are elite products.

The disadvantage of hybrids is that they require the systematic purchase of seeds of a favorite plant, since preparing home stocks for planting is a waste of time.

Germination test

Purchased products are often subjected to testing to determine whether the effort for a new batch of planting material is worth the effort. There are several ways:

Fast. The seeds are placed in water. At this stage, part of the contents of the bag remains at the bottom, and the rest pops up. Seeds that are on the surface are considered marriage.
Long. A dozen test seeds are placed on a wet cotton pad and covered with the same one on top. The experimental material is placed near the heater. A week's wait will show the actual result.

How to choose seeds for seedlings

One and critical factors that have a huge impact on the yield is the quality of the seeds. But the difficulty lies in the fact that it is not immediately possible to make out which are good and which are not. Each gardener has his own secrets, but we will tell you a few more tricks. You can buy seeds in the supermarket, and in a specialized chain store, and even in the market. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, but the main thing is reviews about the product and the seller. You can find out from familiar summer residents, or you can look on the Internet, or better, all at once. But even with good reviews there are mistakes and you can get on a low-quality product.
To avoid such a fate, be careful and consider the following factors: buy only in places you have checked, and even if another store has opened, where it is cheaper, it is not worth the risk. If suddenly you decide to buy expensive seeds in the store, then be sure to keep the receipt so that in case of marriage you can return them. be sure to check the quality certificates before buying. And forget about embarrassment and inconvenience. Remember that this is your legal right. Do not forget about studying the information that is indicated on the package: Look not only for the expiration date and storage conditions, but also read what is written in small print. Pay attention to the ripening period, in this case it is better to give preference early dates. The markings on the packaging can also be useful to you. F1 are first order hybrids and F2 are second order hybrids. Do not be afraid of these names, because hybrids do not carry anything terrible in themselves. Although these are artificially bred seeds, they have nothing to do with genetically modified products. Moreover, such seeds give an excellent yield and are resistant to diseases. However, next year you will not collect seeds from them. In order not to fall into the ruse of manufacturers, be aware that sometimes the high cost of seeds is not justified. An example of this is pelleted seeds or seeds on a ribbon. Although they make it easier to land, their price is sometimes significantly overestimated.
Hardening and planting seedlings
Dragee seeds do not need any pre-treatment before planting. But ordinary seeds are better to harden before planting. This will provide you with good germination, protect against pests and diseases, and also increase resistance to weather conditions.
Harden the seeds of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, zucchini. They need to be soaked for 5-7 hours until swelling at a temperature of 20 degrees, and then put in the refrigerator for 6 hours (not in the freezer!), and do this for five days in a row. Instead, the seeds can, on the contrary, be heated in the oven - at a temperature not exceeding 60 ° for three hours. There are other ways to prepare seeds for sowing - each summer resident chooses his own. If you refuse to harden the seeds, do not forget to soak them overnight in water before sowing to speed up the seed spitting.
The soil can be purchased, or your own, according to the opinion of many experienced summer residents this is not so important. But in both the first and second cases, it is necessary to carefully check it for the presence of various small plants, they should not be.
And before planting seedlings, it is necessary to prepare the soil. Place it in a wide container, pour boiling water with potassium permanganate and leave it for 3-4 days. Planting seeds should be done as follows: Some gardeners sow seeds in ordinary soil, in juice bags. You can also use yogurt cups, peat pots or cubes. It is necessary to plant a maximum of 2-3 seeds in a glass, otherwise you can only make it worse. It is better to start feeding in a month. To do this, use a liquid complex fertilizer. It is better to fill the soil not to the top, but leave 4-5 centimeters from the edge and add earth as it grows.

Seedling care and planting in the ground

Picking seedlings is carried out at any time, but most often this is done when the first leaf appears. Weak plants in a common container are best cut off, leaving strong ones. Do not forget about the regular loosening of the soil. Thanks to this, you will be able to provide plants with oxygen, as well as protect against the development of bacteria. And to avoid such a misfortune as a “black leg”, sprinkle the soil with ash.
Remember to only turn the pots towards the light so that the plants do not stretch to one side. In other cases, for growing strong seedlings, additional lighting is indispensable. As a light source, it is easiest to use fluorescent lamps or LEDs. Seedlings should be watered only with settled water, in which there is no chlorine. Two weeks before the proposed planting in the ground, start hardening the seedlings: take it out of the warm room to the balcony for a couple of hours, then put it back. After a week, the seedlings can "stay" on the balcony for 4-5 hours. This procedure will speed up flowering and fruiting. The timing of planting seedlings in the ground depends on the specific location and weather conditions.