Products from the substrate under the laminate - cheap and very beautiful! Even a child can make chrysanthemums from isolon General considerations for laying

Such bottle-houses, of course, are not new. They are made by many, using all sorts of different materials: putty, various plastics, fabric, leather, etc. etc. After one job, I still have a lot of pieces of cork backing under the laminate - well, don’t throw it away !!!

Cork underlay - sold in building stores in rolls and sheets. In rolls - thinner and cheaper, easy to model, economically consumed.

I found an already empty (alas!) bottle from under "COINTREAU" - brown glass, an interesting shape, it seemed to me that it was possible to make a house so ... alien.

I cut "bricks" from the remnants of the cork sheet, glued it on the glass, leaving room for windows and doors.

Frames and doors - from frozen Eskimo shelves, steps, "tiles" on the roof - from cork, cut many, many tiles and glued them with an overlap. I glue everything with a sticker "Moment-universal transparent".

Then I paint and decorate. I just paint with acrylic white paint - the walls of the house, tinting the "bricks" along the edges for completeness of perception. The cork is painted very well, it becomes like a stone.

I also glued the "door" (from popsicle sticks), painted it to match the color of the old tree, painted "hinges" and "door ring".

I painted the “roof” for a long time: first with red acrylic paint, then for a long time I stained it with brown and black. It turned out to be an old tile. And like a pipe. The lid is screwed on.

Here is the "house" from all sides:

And then I was inspired by something and made another jar in the same way:

In this case, you can pour into a jar, pour into a bottle.

A trifle, but nice ...

Choosing the right underlay for your laminate flooring is very important during renovations. The lining material protects the panels from the negative factors associated with the interaction of the concrete floor and fiberboard. Underlayment under the laminate insulates the coating and extends its life. The choice of this material is a serious and responsible task, the importance of which cannot be underestimated, because durability and appearance laminate is 90% merit quality installation, where the most important thing is to correctly choose the substrate. The choice of substrate must be made based on what kind of base the laminate will be mounted on, what are the parameters of humidity and temperature, whether there are differences in the floor and what kind of laminate will be laid. This is so serious that laminate manufacturers even have the right to refuse to consider a claim for deterioration in the quality of the flooring if you used the “wrong” underlay. Types of substrates for laminate Cork Lining material made from compressed cork oak chips. It has the following features: high level sound insulation and perfectly retains the temperature, but at the same time "does not like" humidity. It is used when installing laminate in dry rooms where waterproofing is not required. The cork substrate is not suitable for rooms with fresh screed and areas located above the bathrooms, but it can be used in apartments of "panel" houses. Laying this material requires preliminary surface preparation. The floor must be even, otherwise the laminate will deform over time. Polyethylene (isolon) Artificial material for preparing the floor surface for the installation of laminate. It has the following characteristics: the advantages of polyethylene are low cost and reliable protection against moisture. The thickness of the foamed isolon is 2-3 millimeters, but under the pressure of the finished fiberboard coating, it decreases several times, compensating for uneven floors. This type is used in wet areas to protect against moisture. Polyethylene creates a reliable water barrier that prevents the destruction of the laminate. To ensure the result, it must be laid with an overlap of at least 25 mm. Styrofoam The production of expanded polystyrene lining material is widely developed in Russia and the CIS. It has the following characteristics: it is used for rooms in which a serious load on the floor is foreseen. Hard synthetic material has a low leveling ability, so it must be laid on a perfectly flat floor. One thick layer of extruded polystyrene foam backing will keep moisture out of the room and provide impressive thermal insulation. When burned, this material releases toxic fumes. Tuplex High-end elastic sheet material for floor compensation, sound insulation and heat retention. It has the following characteristics: technical specifications Tuplex is in many ways superior to similar products from Leroy Merlin, Arbiton, Izoplat, Izoshum and Pleneks. Comparison of material properties showed that Tuplex is less toxic, and at the same time more durable. The elastic structure will allow you to lay the substrate in hard-to-reach places. After installation, the material will retain its structure for several years, providing reliable protection from negative factors. Coniferous Natural spruce material, which is environmentally friendly and provides the maximum level of thermal insulation. If you do not know which substrate is better to use under the laminate on concrete floor in a dry room, pay attention to this option. It has the following characteristics: coniferous lining will provide a high level of protection against extraneous noise. With it, an electric underfloor heating will heat the room delicately and evenly. The average thickness of the substrate under the laminate will compensate for minor defects on the surface so that the finished plane is even. How thick should the underlay be? There is a myth among the people: the thicker the substrate under the laminate, the better. And some even put it in two layers to achieve even greater sound insulation and warmth. But here lies one important negative point: such a substrate under a point load (for example, from a standing heavy object or person) can compress too much, and the boards can even break, unfortunately. So, even if the substrate is a little thicker than 3 mm, then over time the connections of the lamellas may be damaged, because the laminate is not designed for deflection when a person walks. And here are the consequences: the boards bend, the locks wear out quickly from this and large gaps appear, from which the floor then does not just creak - it “rumbles”. How smoother ground, the thinner you can take the substrate. But still, it is necessary to take into account the level of its rigidity.
When laying the underlayment, the most important thing is to avoid matching its seams and the seams of the coating. You need to lay the sheet lining in a checkerboard pattern, not overlap, but fix it with masking tape. The rolled substrate must be laid with an overlap on the walls, on the next strips already without an overlap - only with adhesive tape fixed. Do you understand why? The overlapped joints will simply create an uneven surface on which it is no longer possible to lay the laminate. Successful installation of flooring depends on the quality of the finishing material, and on whether the lining under it was correctly laid, which performs whole line useful features and has good technical characteristics.

I don’t know about you, but I like chrysanthemums because they are very unpretentious in their care. And, these are the flowers that combine the warm breath of summer and the initial frosts of autumn. In the fall, I usually dig a couple of roots from the flower bed and plant them in pots and continue to admire the flowering for a long time.

For those who do not have the opportunity to admire the grown beauty, I offer a master class on making very natural-looking isolon chrysanthemums with my own hands.

So, to make such a composition, we need:

Corrugated paper white and green

Wire

hot gun

Nylon threads №20

Cardboard for making templates

Polish for hair

So let's start the process.

We cut out a rectangle 8X40 cm from the isolon. (By the way, we draw rectangles along the isolon with a pen, because the pencil does not draw on it. We cut it out along the inside of the line so that the line is not visible). Now on the side of 8 cm we make a mark in the middle and connect this point with one of the corners of the opposite side. Cut along the line. It turns out the detail as in the photo.

Cut the beveled edge into thin strips with scissors. Do not cut to the edge of about 1 cm.

Cut the ends of the straw at an acute angle. In this form, the petals will look more elegant.

Spread the edge of the part with glue and twist.

To make the stem, you need to wrap the wire with corrugated paper. Make a small loop on one side.

We put the stalk in the middle of the resulting flower blank, so that the loop is invisible.

We tie the base of the flower blank with a nylon thread. Thus, we will ensure that the flower opens.

Cover the base of the flower with a sepal. It can be cut from the same isolon or from corrugated paper. Glue it to the base of the flower with a hot gun.

Cut out the leaves according to the pattern. Isolon stretches well, therefore, slightly stretching the edges, we give the leaves a beautiful shape. We glue them with a hot gun to the stalk.

We decorate the middle of the flower with sparkles and sprinkle with hairspray.

That's it, your chrysanthemum is ready. It remains to do by analogy as much as you need.

Get inspired and create. Good luck!!!

Thanks for the master class Morgalyuk Olga

Master class from the series "Crafts from non-traditional materials". Theme: painting "White Lady"

Rose
This flower is the most beautiful!
It can be white or red
May be yellow or pink
Like a perfume fragrant at the same time.
Only now the twig pricks with thorns.
What flower? Guess yourself!
Svetlana Dzhus
Author: Morgalyuk Olga Stanislavovna, teacher of additional education, MKOU DOD "CDP", Kushva.
purpose: the master class is designed for children aged 10-12, as well as teachers of additional education, and is one of a series of master classes on working with non-traditional materials.
Purpose: gift making, interior design.
Target: To make a picture in a frame with roses from isolon.
Tasks:
- create conditions for mastering theoretical knowledge and practical skills in working with isolon;
- develop creative thinking;
- cultivate perseverance, patience, accuracy.
Visual aids: finished works from isolon.

The technique that I suggest you master, we invented empirically in the classroom with children. Children are little explorers, they check everything by touch. Studying the properties of isolone in the classroom, we found that the material is stretched, forming an interesting edge.

PROPERTIES OF ISOLON
Isolon is a technical fabric that serves for warming and insulation. It comes in different thicknesses: from 0.2 cm to 1 cm, the width of the material is from 1 m to 2 m. Sold in hardware stores, the price is relatively low. The color scheme is not very diverse, the main colors are white, green, yellow, red. Now there is an isolon with one side coated with foil, which gives certain effects. This material does not burn, but only melts; sufficiently strong in tension; it is well cut with scissors and a cutter, which allows you to cut a thin pattern on it; when strongly stretched by hands, it breaks, and if it is not stretched too much, then a wavy edge is obtained. It sticks together badly, only with the help of a thermal gun. You can also connect with a stapler or sew. Can be dyed acrylic paints. It is well stored in a roll, if stored in a bent state, it forms a scar. If stored for a long time in the sun, it may turn yellow.

Materials and tools.
To work with isolon, you will need the following materials and tools:
template cardboard, ball pen, scissors, thermal gun, frame, packaging mesh for the background of the picture, hairspray, cosmetic gloss, spray paint.

Step by step process work.
1. Cut out stencils for flower petals and leaves from cardboard. The petal consists of the upper part and the stem: template No. 1 - 1 pc., No. 2 - 5 pcs., No. 3 - 5 pcs. (patterns 4 and 5 for larger flower)

2. Transfer the stencils of the petals to the isolon and circle with a pen (the pencil does not draw on the isolon, the marker is smeared).

3. Cut out the circled details (the details must be cut along the inside, otherwise the line from the handle will be visible, which makes the work sloppy)

4. Stretch the edges of the upper part of the petal, I called this technique “stretching”. Do not pull too hard so as not to tear the workpiece. But if your edge is a little torn, do not worry. This will give additional volume to the petal.

5. We start the assembly from the middle of the flower, to do this, smear the lower edge of the first petal with glue and twist.

6. Glue 5 small petals (pattern No. 2) in a circle, smearing the leg with glue. Attach the petals according to the scheme.

7. Glue 5 petals (pattern No. 3) in a circle, smearing the leg with glue. Attach the petals according to the scheme.
flower in ready-made looks like this.

8. For the composition we need 3 rose flowers. Run two more similarly to the first flower: using templates No. 1; 2; 3; 4 in the second flower and templates No. 1; 2; 3; 4; 5 in the third flower.

9. Transfer the leaf stencils to isolon and circle with a pen.

10. Cut out the circled parts (don't forget to cut along the inside!). Stretch the edges of the leaves (neatly!) The result is such leaf blanks.

11. The scraps that you have left when cutting can be used. For example: if you stretch one edge of the strip, you get an interesting decor element, and if you cut a circle in a spiral, you get a curl. These details can be used in the design of the work.

12. For the composition you need three rose flowers, three leaves and decorative elements.

13. Sprinkle the finished flowers with hairspray and, until it dries, sprinkle with glitter and fix with varnish again.

14. Paint the finished frame with spray paint. Glue the mesh onto the frame from the inside using a heat gun. You can use wallpaper for the background.

15. Glue fragments of the picture onto the grid using a thermal gun. First attach the leaves, then the flowers and decor. When composing a composition, it is important to remember the basic laws of composition: the law of integrity - the indivisibility of the composition and the law of contrasts. To compile this panel, I suggest using asymmetry, which will help to give the work dynamism and lightness.

16. Finished painting.

Most popular flooring, which is used in the repair of apartments, is a laminate. One of the reasons for its wide popularity is its extreme ease of installation. Thanks to her, the owner of the apartment can lay the laminate on his own without sacrificing quality. The details of this work are discussed below.

About choosing and buying laminate flooring

A huge selection of all kinds of colors and patterns is another reason for the popularity of laminate flooring. Manufacturers are constantly expanding their range. Even for the most sophisticated design ideas, there are two or three suitable options colors and patterns.
When choosing a laminate, pay attention to the following nuances:
Thicker material is more durable. The thicker the laminate, the higher the profile of the locks, and, therefore, the adhesion strength of the elements.
Laminate with a chamfer around the perimeter of the elements is preferable. It looks more natural. In addition, the chamfer masks small gaps that may appear during operation.
Some varieties of laminate are sold with the backing already glued. Such a laminate absorbs the sound of footsteps better and is somewhat easier to install.

Foundation Requirements

Laminate is a very "democratic" material. It can be successfully laid on old coatings: on parquet, linoleum, ceramic tiles, plank floor and, of course, on the concrete floor. The main requirement is that the base must be even. Most laminate flooring manufacturers recommend that the curvature of the floor should not exceed 2 mm when measured with a meter stick.
It is important that the base is dry. If you are going to lay laminate on a newly made cement screed, be sure to make a vapor barrier: cover the entire floor surface with polyethylene with an overlap of 30–40 cm.

We prepare tools and materials

In order not to waste extra time on work, all the necessary materials and tools should be at hand:
Sufficient laminate and underlayment. Please note. That some of the material will go to trim.
Plinth, connecting elements for it and fasteners.
Electric jigsaw and 2-3 replaceable files for it.

Hammer, small pry bar or nail puller.
Tape measure, square, pencil or marker for marking.

General considerations for installation

Be sure to read the instructions for laying laminate flooring. General principles work for all types of laminate is the same, but when working with different types laminate has its own nuances. Pay attention to which direction - from left to right or right to left - you need to collect rows. Find out how the elements are connected along the short side.

All types of laminate are laid in a "floating way": the material is not attached to the base. With changes in humidity, the material "breathes" - its geometric dimensions change. To compensate for these changes, a gap of 8–10 mm is left around the perimeter of the room between the wall and the laid coating. It closes with a plinth.
Usually the rows of laminate are arranged along the rays of light from the window. Nevertheless, you can lay the laminate in the transverse direction and even at an angle of 45 degrees. Often, but not always, laying laminate flooring starts from the wall in which the door is located or closest to it.
Taking into account all these considerations, we determine where we will start laying and get to work.

Working process

1. On a cleanly swept floor base, spread the first row of the substrate. (If a vapor barrier is required, we spread it first, and put the substrate on top.)

2. We collect the first row. We cut the last element in the row to length and put it at the beginning of the next row. Having fully assembled two rows, we check their straightness with a stretched thread.
3. Make sure that the distance between short joints in adjacent rows is at least 30-35 cm. If necessary, start the next row with a longer or shorter element.

4. We continue laying. When 3-4 rows are ready, we arrange a deformation gap between the laid coating and the wall. It is convenient to use small pieces of laminate, sawn from scraps.
5. As necessary, spread the substrate and continue laying. We make sure that there are no gaps between the elements. We eliminate them with gentle blows of a hammer, necessarily through a spacer made from trimming the laminate.

6. Laminate elements in the last row have to be cut to width. The room may not be rectangular. To cut the part to the desired width, mark the cut line “in place” as shown in the figure.

7. To insert elements last row into locks without slots, use a pry bar or a nail puller.
8. Having finished laying, install the skirting boards. Laminate packs require very careful attitude. It is easy to damage the locks and not even notice it. If this does happen, the damaged elements can be used around the edges so that the chipped parts go to the trim.

To reduce chipping along the cut when cutting laminate, use special files with a reverse tooth, as in the photo, or mark and saw the laminate from the back side.

Carefully check the cleanliness of the grooves in the locks: the slightest speck - and a gap will appear at the junction. On a light laminate, the gaps are especially noticeable.
To cut holes for heating pipes, use a narrow file for a figured cut. Fill the gap between the laminate and the pipe with parquet sealant in the color of the laminate.
Laying laminate in a room of 18–20 sq. meters requires no more than 4-5 hours. One person can handle it.
The floor is ready for use immediately! You can bring and live.