Need for speed prostreet car comparison. Correct car setup in Need For Speed ProStreet. Damage and markers

16.05.2021

Genre: Race
Developer: EA Black Box
Publisher: Electronic Arts
Localization: Soft Club
Game site http://www.ea.com
Release date: November 13, 2007 in the US, November 23, 2007 in Europe
Platforms: XBOX 360™, PlayStation3®, PlayStation2™, Wii, Playstation®Portable, Nintendo DS™, PC-CD, Mobile

Game description:
The most expensive cars from around the world, breathtaking tuning, xenon light and unrealistic speeds - illegal racing has always attracted daredevils on the fastest masterpieces of the automotive industry. But over time, culture and fashion change. Fans of fast driving came out into the light and stopped hiding from the police: new competitions are officially held on special tracks in all parts of the world. The hobby of the "golden youth" has turned into independent view sport with its own rules, sponsors and champions.

The new part of the famous racing series Need for Speed changes after the races themselves. No more hiding from the authorities and taking risks in illegal races. Now the most dangerous enemy- not the police, but cunning and swift rivals. They act aggressively and at any moment are ready to cut the opponent's car or push it into a ditch, turning it into a shapeless pile of iron. The era of immortal cars is over! Any four-wheeled horse can be smashed to smithereens: literally everything crumples and falls off - the hood, bumpers, spoilers, roof, fenders, windows and even wheels. ProStreet is not just another episode of the series, it is a new level of realism and entertainment available to everyone!

Game Features:
The damage system will teach caution. Beware of collisions with other cars and hitting concrete blocks, otherwise you risk turning the chrome-plated beauty into a heap of useless trash. You can break, crush or tear off any part. After each race, you will have to repair the car, choosing between replacing old parts or restoring them - after all, new ones cost a lot of money.
Improved tuning system. The slightest change in the appearance of the car affects its behavior. Reducing the angle of the spoiler or the height of the bumper affects the aerodynamic performance. A standard car can be turned into a rocket that develops space speeds, but it will not be easy to cope with it.
Fine tuning of the engine. The motor is paid no less attention than the external details. It can be carefully adjusted to achieve the desired effect. From now on, it is the “stuffing” under the hood, and not ostentatious delights, that is the most important part of the car.
Licensed car park. You will meet many cars from the most famous concerns. Among them are the BMW M3, Mazda RX-7, Toyota Corolla GTS AE86 and Nissan GT-4 Proto. The game features models from two dozen famous manufacturers.
Cutting edge graphics. Models of cars are so similar to their real prototypes that the line between the game and life is melting before our eyes. Beautiful clouds, sky, spectacular sunsets and sunrises, spectators near the track and clouds of thick smoke escaping from under the wheels further enhance the sense of reality of what is happening.

Question answer

№1 Question: Where can I download music from the game?
Answer: http://www.nfs-zone.net/nfsps-soundtracks

№2 Question: Is there a demo (beta) and where can I download it?
Answer: There is. Mirror 1 , Mirror 2 , Mirror 3 , Mirror 4.

№3 Question: What cars are in the game?
Answer: Here full list: http://www.nfs-zone.net/nfsps-carlist

№4 Question: How many races are there in the game?
Answer: There are four in total:

- GRIP(Close Сircuit) - Closed circuit race (Or simply in the people - circles)
- Drift- Known since the first Underground! Skids, points - VICTORY! Drift mode will be different from that of NFS Carbon thanks to new physics.
- Drag- Race in a straight line from point A to point B with manual gear shifting (Drag)
- Speed challenge- It will take place mainly on long tracks. At high speeds, you will drive on straight, flat roads with almost no turns. But when you try to drive, the game will turn into off-road, as driving at such speeds will be very dangerous.

№5 Question: Does the game support DX 10?
Answer: NO. DX9 only

№6 Question: I heard that the game has a Russian language, how to activate it?
Answer: Download archive -> NFS ProStreet Lang Change(Unzip to game folder)

№7 Question: Where are game saves stored?
Answer: In the folder My Documents. Start -> My Documents -> NFS ProStreet

№8 Question: How to pass "Willy"?! Whatever I do, the car does not stand on the "rack"!
Answer: I need to buy a 1969 Dodge Charger R/T car. As a quick option: buy #3 quick tuning kits for power and grip - that's it.
As an alternative: engine, turbine, transmission, suspension, tires level 3, nitro 2nd.
Make settings in tuning: in the engine, the gas distribution phase to a minimum, H2O injection to the maximum, in the transmission, the first gear is 3/4, the rest are 1/4, do not touch the main one.
Advice from vk6666:
the best car for the "Wheelie" mode (in the Russian beaver translation "Willy")
this is a dodge charger r \ t with a maximum dvigla pack (I have a 4th level of turbine, nitra, and dvigla) I think the 3rd level of upgrades is also suitable, but I tried it on 4m, in "tuning" in the "engine" section, all parameters are set to " high", and we get a charger about 974 mares...
in gears, the setting of the first two is short, the third and 4 are normal
the last long one (this is 1/2 mile even better), 1/4 mile - do not lengthen the last gears
then - the car starts, we try to get into the Perfect shift, and we succumb to the nitro at the beginning of the 4th gear, and then we also switch to the green area ...
result: the whole track is on its hind legs, that is, according to game measurements, 409 meters (for some reason, and not 402), he personally scored 409 meters in 3 races in a row ...
advice from nighthorror
To win a wheelie - special costs not needed - enough:
Dodge Charger 1pc.
Engine level 2.
Suspension level 2.
Checkpoint level 3.
Turbine level 3.
Tires level 3.
Nitro level 1.
Next, pull the 5th gear to the maximum.
We adjust the suspension - the front axle is hard, the rear axle is soft.

№9 Question: How to remove PUNK BUSTER, which is installed and launched along with the game, taking away some of the resources (Only for the pirated version) so that the game does not break on the Internet?
Answer: Uninstall (for Windows XP):
1) Go to Control Panel -> Administrative Tools -> Services, find PnkBstrA and disable this service in properties
2) Go to the c ProStreet folder and delete the PB folder
3) go to Windows/system32 and delete PnkBstrA.exe, PnkBstrB.exe
4) Start -> Run -> regedit -> Edit -> Find -> Punk Buster, there are 2 partitions, delete them (this step is optional)
5) Restart the computer

№10 Question: is it possible, for example, to assign a car for a dredge as a drift car and vice versa?
Answer: each car can be assigned to any type of race: go into the garage, select a car from which you want to change the destination and press the number 2 (but after the change, all packages installed on the car are reset)

№11 Question: Does the game have a free life like most wanted, when freedom of movement + role-playing system and you can ride anywhere and anytime?
Answer: There is not. You can only ride on trails.

№12 Question: Does Need have For Speed™ Pro Street cheat codes and where to enter them?
Answer: Yes, I have. They must be entered in the career mode in the column code entry
mitsubishigofar- Adds a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution to the garage
zerozerozero- Adds a Volkswagen Golf GTi to the garage
worldslongestlasting- Adds a Dodge Viper SRT-10 to the garage
unlock all things- Adds to the garage: Nissan 240SX, Pontiac GTO, Chevrolet Cobalt SS and Dodge Viper (With tuning). Parts of the 4th level are opened in the store (after a reboot, they also disappear, but if you put them on a wheelbarrow, they will remain on the wheelbarrow)
For eternal money you need to download the trainer
collectorsed- Unlocks the options of the collector's version of the game, namely, adds five new exclusive cars:
Acura Integra LS 2001, Acura NSX 2005, Lexus IS350 2006, Audi RS4 2006 and Pontiac Solstice GXP 2006;
Adds four more racing weekends to the game.
After restarting, the code must be entered again.

№13 Question: How to get rid of friezes during the game.
Answer: At the moment, only replacing the processor with a dual-core one helps in this. In some rare cases, friezes do not disappear on Core2Duo. People with single-core processors and Core2Duo owners who have friezes will have to wait for a patch that will fix this problem.

№14 Question: My races are not starting or the weekend is endlessly loading, what should I do.
Answer: This is caused by editing the registry entry into Russian. It is cured by rewriting back to English with

№15 Question: Are there any patches or updates to the game.
Answer: Yes, I have:
The patch for Need For Speed Pro Street is finally out today. It fixes a lot of bugs and adds a Lan Mode to the game in which you can play with your friends on-line.
The patch also adds previously inaccessible cars to the game (Bugati Veyron, Honda S2000, Seat LEON, Plymouth Road Runer...) and new tracks (Porshe test site in Leipzig, Tokyo Highway)
The patch size is 230MB.
List of changes and additions:
Gameplay fixes, glitches and game bug fixes!
Support for LAN mode (Ability to play on the local network)!
Promised Booster Pack (2 new tracks and 16 new cars)!
This patch is for the European DVD version of the game!
NFS Pro Street Patch v1.1 (Rest of Europe) 227.3 MB
NFS Pro Street Patch v1.1 (US - English) 228 MB (HKZonda, Reloaded, Vitaly)

№16 Question: After updating the game to version 1.1, codes are not entered
Answer: Need to download This little utility.
After patching the nfs.exe file (version 1.1), start the game, enter the following 4 cheat codes in the career:
SAAM-CE
- open Collectors Edition Pack (5 cars)
SAAM-BP1
- open Booster Pack 1 (7 cars)
SAAM-BP2
- open Booster Pack 2 (7 cars)
SAAM-UNL
- replaces cheat code "unlockallthings"

№17 Question: Where can I download saves for the game
Answer: NFS ProStreet Save 1.0
NFS ProStreet Save 1.1
NFS ProStreet SaveGame Unlock Cars - SaveGame with 178 cars

№18 Question: What should be done if something does not work, or there are departures in a car dealership for a Bugatti Veyron, or any other car?
Reply from vk6666:
1. install patch 1.1 for YOUR VERSION of the game.
2. We put this magic patch on it: PATCH
yes, it seems to be like it is "but CD" but in fact this archive contains 2 files: nfs.exe and a list of cars file, that is, now the cars are displayed correctly, the exe file no longer gives errors, BUT the codes do not work ... and then we put this miracle here:
3. MIRACLE in fact, it gives us the ability to use the new executable, here are the very codes (See above)

№19 Question: What are the "bosses" in Need For Speed™ Pro Street and how to win them
Answer from vk6666:
In the game, as you noticed, there are five "bosses", that is, "kings" of each type of race, plus one main one, for all types of races, and naturally everyone wants to defeat them, I offer some tips that allow you to defeat these gentlemen as best as possible faster:

1.Drag King (Karol Monroe)
everything is quite simple with this gentleman - he performs on a frank shed, namely on the Ford Mustang GT 2006, which has only 551 hp under the hood, respectively, if your unit has more than 700 horses - you will defeat him without straining like in half a mile, and in quarter-mile races, but how to win in Wheelie is written above. I’ll make a reservation right away - in this type of race he gains a maximum of 250 meters, and if you followed the advice for passing Wheelie, then 380-409 meters is guaranteed to you, which will give you an absolute victory.

2. Drift King (Aki Kamura)
there are also quite a few tricks here, but if you know how to make a continuous skid on the entire track, then this friend is also not afraid of you. car - Mazda RX7 1995, under 500 horses (very, by the way, clumsy)
He scores from 2800 to 3400 points on any track, i.е. you just need to do at least a little more - and your victory.

3. Grip King (Ray Krieger)
the first time you see him, there is a strong feeling that he either bought the rights, or his friends gave him ... his car is a BMW M3 E92 2008, about 500 horses.
he doesn’t know how to drive at all, moreover, if you scare him with unpredictable idiocy like nitro before the turn, and next to him, then he himself will also catch the roof. and if you don’t touch him, he often doesn’t enter turns .. moreover, in the races on the way to him you will come across a much more harmful rival - Rudy Chen on a Porsche 911 Turbo 2006, which copes much better with turns and straights, and if you defeated him, then the flu king is not terrible for you at all. The only thing to remember is that the tracks in competition with this king will be winding, and accordingly you need to take something like a Subaru Impreza, Mitsubishi EVO 9 or X, Lancia Delta, or any of the supercars tuned accordingly.
a small note: his car is a frank bucket of bolts, it is simply stupid to participate in circuit races on it - the car drives, plus it is clumsy. so sell it as soon as you win...

4. Speed King (Nate Denver)
car - Pontiac GTO 1965, if memory serves - about 700 horses.
this guy drives very well and very fast, almost never makes mistakes, but exactly what is practical: on two races of the Speed Challenge there is his favorite turn with cacti, where he flies every second race, i.e. if he did overtake you, and came to the finish line first (this turn is at the end of the track) - do not be shy, restart the race, and he will definitely glide into the ditch ..
and there are only 4 checkpoints on Top Speed Run - just turn on the nitro before each one, and victory is yours (first release the king forward so as not to interfere)

5. Showdown King (Ryo Watanabe)
this is the most harmful organism in the game, car Mitsubishi Lancer Evo IX MR-edition 2006 751 hp
drives very well, competes in all types of races:
a). Drag - there are two competitions with him, Wheelie and a half-mile drag along a rough track with a mountain in the middle, everything is simple with Wheelie, he gains no more than 200 meters, and the rest we look above, this is the easiest type of racing with him.
on a half mile drag you need to take a very stable car, or four-wheel drive (Lamborghini Murcielago LP640 2006 works well)
or rear-wheel drive, but then turn on the nitro after the exit from the hill, in 6th gear. otherwise he will lead, the "king" himself 2 out of three times catches the roof when passing the mountain, once he still levels out and arrives with a big delay (although once I saw that he still did not make a mistake, and drove as it should, the result he has 12.9 sec)
b) Speed is the most dreary type of racing (IMHO) because the track is full of ditches, and in order to overtake it, you have to drive very fast and carefully, which is not always the case with supercars.
possible options - in one of the 10 races, he catches the roof in a random place on the track, then we just drive to the end at low speed, and we win.
second: we are trying to overtake him, but we need a fast and stable car, which is achieved only by fine tuning.
third: we take any barge and not far from the start we try to dump it into a ditch - it usually comes out from the 5th time, well, then by 150 and slowly we reach the finish line ..
c) Grip - here it is also very strong - only a nimble and VERY fast car will help, with the shortest gears, and maximum brake pressure (done in the car settings) muscle cars will not work here at all, I personally went through this race on a Ford GT (the most maneuverable from supercars).
the tracks are all a mix of straights and 180 degree turns.
d) Drift - here we look at everything that I wrote about Drift King - he scores the same points. only port routes are the most inconvenient ..

№20 Question: Which cars are best for Drift, Drag, Grip and Speed.
Answer from vk6666:

So, I’ll make a reservation right away - we will talk about version 1.1 of the game, and about the most difficult game mode "King" with disabled "helpers", i.e. you can't make it harder.

1. Drift
in this type of racing, any car will suit you in principle, but I will still highlight a few models:
a) "Japanese" - a funny thing 1986 Toyota Corolla GT-S AE86 - cheap and effective at first
the 1998 Toyota Supra and 1999 Nissan Silvia S15 are also very good, just easy to drive and responsive cars.
b) "Americans" - here I want to note the 1971 Dodge Challenger and 1970 Plymouth Hemi Cuda - swing up to 868 and 960 horses, respectively, are very agile, and will pull you out of any turn (in general, like the supra) plus, due to the greater mass of the car, the specifics of control different from the "Japanese", but it's already "taste and color", for example, you can hold the brake and at the same time turn on the gas, winding the glasses around the corner of the skid and behind the smoke ... well, I note that I personally scored against the king of drift and Ryu Watanabe in two times more points on these two muscle cars. and my personal record is 7900 points for the track - on the challenger ..
and a small addition - there are two excellent barges - 1968 Plymouth Road Runner and 1967 Dodge Charger - this is better to use on tracks where the radius of continuous drift is very large - then these armadillos will shove with excellent speed along such turns, and continuous drift, as you know - the longer the better.

2. Drag
in this type of racing, almost all cars can be brought to mind, but I think we need to dwell on a few separately:
excellent solutions for a minimum of money, plus excellent stability throughout the route, this is undoubtedly
2006 Pontiac GTO
1967 Dodge Charger
1998 Toyota Supra
and in a separate article the expensive cheating car 2006 Pagani Zonda F - it has results for 402 meters on average 6.5 seconds, according to some statements it was 5.9 ... but this car costs money, and all records were set naturally on a full upgrade of the 4th level

3.Grip
The undoubted leader is the cheap and very frisky 1991 Lancia Delta Integrale Evo, which, at maximum buildup, gives only 421 hp, but at the same time you can defeat everyone and everything, including Mr. Ryu.
further - attention is deserved by such machines as
2008 Porsche 911 (997) GT2
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STI

2006 Ford GT
2006 Koenigsegg CCX
The McLaren F1 also stands out, which (with a full upgrade) can enter a 90º turn at a speed of 180 km / h ... the only minus of the McLaren F1 is its price.

these cars, with the shortest gears (done in the "tuning" section), stiff suspension and maximum brake pressure (all the same) - are simply ideal in handling and acceleration, which makes them excellent in this class of racing. But you also need to make one car for the "oval" track that you come across towards the end of the game - here any car that can be pumped over 800 hp is taken, its gears are pulled to the maximum, and sluggish steering is made - then on the oval you will be the first. and what to take - it's a matter of taste ..
but for perverts I can advise
two more models:
1967 Chevrolet Corvette C2 (Sting Ray)
2006 Chevrolet Corvette Z06
you can effectively take turns on them only with the help of a controlled skid, and not be afraid, but enter at fairly high speeds, but you still need to be able to do this, but acceleration after the turn is simply devilish (again, do not forget about short gears and the strongest possible brake)

4.Speed
all-wheel drive are good here and fast cars, as well as almost all supercars
I would especially like to highlight the following models:
2007 Audi RS4
1999 Nissan Skyline R34
2006 Lamborghini Murciélago LP640
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STI
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX MR Edition
2008 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X
2006 Ford GT
for their excellent stability.

who cares - I passed the king of speed and Ryu on a 2007 Audi RS4, and it was much easier than on my previous 2008 Porsche 911 (997) GT2 ..

and finally, a general comment about the two machines:
1. 2006 Bugatti Veyron 16.4 - no matter how cool she looks, no matter how tempting her 407 km / h is, this is just a show off, she will not be better in any of the classes of the above outstanding cars .. while she is not subjected to any what upgrade, except for the body shape and color. that is, neither tuning, nor improvement of the power unit, nor nitro is available to you ...
2. 2008 Nissan GT-R Proto - Upgradeable, Tuneable, but visual changes are locked. and even though it can be pumped up to 1400 mares, it is also not much better in terms of usability, but somewhere noticeably worse than the above cars.

Thanks to vk6666 and @_lex for help in creating the FAQ. Just recently I wrote this article for NFS Underground 2. I was asked to do the same for Pro Street.

So, there are four types of races in the game: flu (circle), high-speed races, drag, drift (skidding). Not only are separate cars desirable for each type of race, they are required by the game. Let's start with the fact that after each final it is desirable to buy cars. All main cars will be available after the second final. And finally, let's proceed to the selection of cars.

1. Flu. This is a classic racing in a circle, the main type in this game. For him, from the very beginning you will be given a Nissan 240SX. The car is not very fast, but at first it will go. Ride it and don't change it until they start making you, figuratively speaking, even the Cossacks, that is, when it becomes too slow. I can assure you, this will not happen until you pass the first stage. Further, after the first final, many good cars will become available. Among all, I chose the main leaders: Dodge Charger R / T, BMW M3 GTRE46 or E92, Nissan GT-R (There is also a Nissan GT-R Proto, but it is not available). As for the latter, he has good speed, but you need to have a certain skill to manage. In one of the weekends (qualifying) you will be offered a VW Golf GTI or Nissan 350Z. I would recommend the 350Z. Rides well and handles better. Then do tuning these cars. Pumped to the maximum, they are quite suitable to defeat the king of the flu.

2. Drag. These are races in a straight line, no turns, a quarter mile or half a mile. In the qualifying weekend of the first stage, you will be offered a Chevrolet Cobalt SS or Honda Civic SI. Take the Cobalt, it rides much better. Just like in the first case, soon it will become too slow, and you will have to change it. A rear-wheel drive car is desirable for a dredge. First, they tend to accelerate faster than full- or front-wheel drive. Secondly, in the game there is such a kind of dredge as "willie". You need to ride as much as possible. To do this, you need a rear-wheel drive car with parts at least the third level. Do not take it for bias, but I set the absolute (of all my) records on the Chevrolet Camaro SS. A quarter mile in 7.78 seconds, respectively, for a dredge, I advise him. You can also try Mazda RX-7 or Dodge Viper SRT10.

3. High-speed racing. In these crazy races at breakneck speeds, high speed and excellent handling are simply necessary. One of the cars that meet these requirements is the BMW M3 GT-R E46. You can also follow the example of the king of high-speed racing and take the Pontiac GTO (old). As an option, you can consider the Dodge Viper SRT10, but it will not be as good a choice as the other two. Well, if you don't like old cars and BMWs, take any Mitsubishi. The main thing is to pump the car to the maximum. If you bought a car for high-speed racing, pour all the money into tuning it. Splurge and you won't regret it.

4. Drift. These are drifts with the aim of scoring points. The one with the most points for a skid wins. In my entire driving history, the Nissan Silvia has become the best car for drifting. Who would doubt that I would recommend him. Even without tuning, this car is able to score up to 7000 points on various tracks. If you don't like the Silvia, get the 350Z. I can not advise anything else, these cars are the most and, moreover, inexpensive. That's what a drifter needs!

That's it. I hope that helped both beginners and experienced ones. Good luck on the roads!

Gambling https://www.site/ https://www.site/

Guides

Say hello to the eleventh game in the Need for Speed series. It just so happens that the odd games in this series come out as masterpieces - remember at least Porsche Unleashed or Most Wanted. These games are deservedly recognized as the best in the series. Their even brothers were much less fortunate - for some reason they always cause a lot of controversy and disagreement. Carbon, Underground 2 is a great example of a game where a good idea has gone the wrong way. Need for Speed Pro Street, to be honest, falls short of Most Wanted, but its very appearance is very important. You just need to figure out what are the shortcomings, and what are the prerequisites for the ideal Need for Speed.

World of professionals

With light hand EA has moved the action of the game from the streets to the autodromes. You can immediately forget about the huge city from Most Wanted, and at the same time about the traffic and the police. We will not be allowed to smear another black-and-white sob on a monstrous truck with logs or a concrete mixer. ProStreet is a world of legal racing, fair competition and sporting spirit. It is not very clear what the word “Street” does in the title, because there are no streets, only polygons and tracks. Such a move looks at least strange. All games in the series had streets and roads general use and a chance to smash your iron horse against an oncoming truck or bus. What does the new game offer in return?

Many years ago

Almost eight years ago, perhaps the best game in the series, Porsche Unleashed, came out. Many, however, did not appreciate the work of the developers, believing that due to the bias towards realism, the entire gameplay was lost. All those who liked to touch the wall at a speed of 200-300 km/h got burned painfully, because in the fourth and fifth parts the player was punished financially for injuries. Eight years later, the damage model was returned to us - however, greatly simplified compared to the same Porsche. The car crashes, repairs cost money, but don't empty the player's pocket. The mechanism is surprisingly simple: let's say you accidentally hit concrete block at a speed of four hundred kilometers per hour. After a couple of pirouettes, you will find out that the cost of repairing a car is equal to your earnings for a couple of dozen (!) Races, but instead of money, local car mechanics accept some markers - prize badges, for which you can both eliminate minor damage and repair a shattered one according to all the canons car beyond repair. Tokens are issued regularly, and you can buy them for a ridiculous price. The choice is yours. If you are a fan of realism, pay only money for repairs, and if you are closer to the spirit of Most Wanted, markers are for you. Fortunately, the damaged car is not too different from the whole - except perhaps in appearance.

Step into the abyss

Recalling Underground 2 and U.R.L. - ring, for four or even six circles, you immediately remember the irresistible longing. Too long "survival" tracks do not really fit the spirit of the game, and in ProStreet they have finally been removed - circuit races are surprisingly dynamic. All types of competitions are built in such a way that the player does not linger on them. Drift tracks have shrunk enormously. Drag now does not aim to dodge an oncoming or passing car, but, on the contrary, forces the player to concentrate on precise gear shifting and maximum acceleration. The new kind competition, named "Speed Race", is the embodiment of the spirit of the series. All the tracks here are as smooth and even as possible, there are no sharp turns, so it is recommended not to lower the mark on the speedometer below 300-350 km/h. Harden your suspension, pump up your tires to the limit, and go for pure speed.

About sad

How much can you patch up the worn-out engine of the same, the first Underground? Initially, of course, it caused a storm of emotions. The owners of video cards with Shader Model 2.0 were especially happy. The game, of course, slowed down, but there were no such effects anywhere else. The crowning achievement was Most Wanted. The breathtaking sun reflecting off the wet asphalt, the roofs of the houses and the sides of the car - the picture in Most Wanted was magnificent. In Carbon, due to the exclusively nighttime driving, the game has lost most of the charm. ProStreet simply doesn't have that charm. Add to this not the best technical performance. For example, I did not notice much difference between 2x and 8x anti-aliasing, but the FPS dropped by about 20%. Shader beauties of previous versions are also not visible - but how I wanted to admire the play of light on the chrome sides of my Lamborghini!

The plot, oddly enough, also falls into the chapter "On the Sad" - it simply does not exist. If in the first games of the series this was forgiven, since the main goal - speed - was clear anyway, then in ProStreet the battle for the driver's crown looks unnatural. What for? Who is this strange man in the helmet? In the same Most Wanted, the player was simply not shown. The camera "out of the eyes" perfectly hid the character, everyone imagined themselves in the driver's seat, and everyone was happy. This technique has been used for a long time, and, to put it mildly, it is strange to see a mysterious figure without a face.

A few words about the main

Like it or not, ProStreet is a real, thoroughbred Need for Speed, you just need to see its virtues behind an unnecessary external husk. Many were waiting for a repeat of Most Wanted, but instead, EA conducted another experiment. The experiment is undoubtedly beautifully and tastefully designed, stuffed with cars and spare parts, but poorly corresponding to the spirit of the series. Perhaps this is a step towards a new Need for Speed, in which the developers will collect all the best from the entire series, and chop off the unnecessary and boring with a big ax. The main thing is that this step should not become the starting point into the abyss of oblivion.

	ADVANTAGES	LIMITATIONS
Fascination 9	diversity, no matter how strange it may sound in relation to racing	the lack of street tracks did not benefit the game
Graphic arts 8	perfectly licked car models	the engine is not wine, it does not get better from time to time
Sound 10	the best musical score in the history of the series	not noticed
Game world 7	bright and memorable style of play	no plot
Convenience 10	very convenient difficulty settings	No

Management and damage

Road

From the previous parts of the ProStreet series is very different. Particularly noticeable changes in the behavior of cars. In my opinion, the differences in the drive are now better felt, and the machines themselves differ not only in the “agility” parameter. Each car has its own stability and stability on the road. Try it for yourself in a BMW M3 E46 and a Dodge Viper after that. Both have rear-wheel drive, but the difference is felt instantly. Truly German rear-wheel drive from the front and you will not distinguish.

All cars in the game are equipped with ABS, SM and TC systems, which can be disabled at any time in the game menu (Options, Gameplay, Mode options). The anti-lock braking system (ABS) prevents the wheels from locking, so when braking the car does not carry where it is not needed and it can be controlled. Considering that most players do not have pedals to adjust the braking force, ABS should be left, as pressing the brakes on the keyboard will lock the wheels. Electronic system Stability Control (SM) assists the vehicle in cornering. This system adjusts the suspension on the fly and also prevents rollover. Useful, but not critical, you can turn it off for a thrill. The stability control system helps the car tenaciously stay on the road, preventing skidding and wheel slip. The computer can interfere with the engine at any time to maintain stability. In the game, stability control is better off, because the computer inside the cars has a very strange concept of "danger of slipping." You will simply lose speed where it is not necessary.

It is interesting: A hybrid of stability and stability systems was created by BMW, and it is called ASC + T (Automatic Stability Control + Traction). This system is designed to improve traction on icy or wet roads.

The time dilation mode has sunk into oblivion - that's where it belongs. To be honest, it was not very suitable for a computer. The fact is that the keyboard buttons have only two positions - pressed (on), not pressed (off). There are no half-presses at all, so the wheels of our virtual machine turn immediately to the extreme position, which leads to a huge loss of speed. Yes, and the need for it has disappeared - why slow down time on the circuit?

Opponents

The old schemes for dealing with opponents no longer work. Not only will you crash your car, but you will also lose speed. In ProStreet, you need to get ahead of opponents, as in circuit racing, playing on the difference in speed and passing corners as close to the inside as possible. Don't forget the "air tunnel" that is created behind the car. Attach to the tail of the nearest enemy and, gaining speed, overtake. This effect is achieved due to the fact that the car in front cuts the air masses, taking on air resistance.

In speed races, you can hustle, where going off the track is almost equal to losing. It is especially useful to push near trees, fenders and telegraph poles, as a broken car is eliminated from the race without the right to "reset".

It is interesting: you can hit the wall with a swing and go further, although in real life such a blow would destroy the engine cooling system and the latter would jam in a couple of minutes. However, at the same time, a coup on the roof is the end of the game.

Complexity

Due to the new difficulty system of the game, I decided to attribute it to management. Previously, this parameter reflected only the behavior of enemy vehicles and the frequency of all sorts of unpleasant accidents, such as drifts, air strikes and civilian vehicles popping out of nowhere. In ProStreet, the complexity was renamed to “assistance level” (Assist), and there are only three of these levels: “beginner” (Casual), “racer” (Racer), “king” (King). On the "newbie" everything is simple. You can forget about the brakes, because the car herself reduces speed in turns, and does it extremely delicately, without resorting to the brake pedal. The revs drop, the speed drops, and you calmly go through the turn. You won't even notice that kind of help if you let off the gas before the maneuver. Computer opponents are more like lost tourists - they do not resist and calmly let you go ahead.

The "racer" level is somewhat more difficult. The car is more obedient, although it still shamelessly slows down in corners.

It is interesting: I wondered for a long time how this BMW M3 can drop speed from 250 to 100 in less than a second, but I attributed it to wonderful German pads. But a few races on highways sobered me up. As soon as the computer slowed down several times without my knowledge, I realized that there are no magic pads.

This phenomenon is very annoying in speeding races, because the computer wants to slow down (and you can’t prevent it) at the most unfortunate moment. Turning off the stability control systems slightly saves the situation, but the effect is still noticeable.

And finally, the last level is "king". This is real hard. Don't expect help from a computer guardian; everything depends on you.

Damage and markers

The damage model has been greatly simplified compared to the fourth and fifth parts. There are three levels of weakness of the iron horse.

Light damage. Slight impact on the chipper, wall or enemy. Driving characteristics are reduced slightly.
Strong damage. Hitting the corner of a concrete wall at 250 kilometers per hour. Significantly reduces the driving performance of the car, which, however, does not interfere with winning the race.
Damage incompatible with life. After the inscription "Totaled" the race ends. That's it, there is nothing to ride on, so there is a repair and restart ahead.

You can smash the car to smithereens, but until you go beyond the level, you will not notice a difference in dynamics. On the other hand, light damage does not necessarily affect driving performance. If you just scratched a door or fender, there will be no loss.

So, we figured out how to take damage. Now let's figure out how to restore ward cars. Let's start with the fact that it is necessary to repair the car. Broken cars can only be used in one competition. There are two types of repairs - for money and for markers. There are two types of markers: the first type removes minor and serious damage, the second restores the machine after complete destruction. These valuable pieces of paper are issued after the end of the "racing days", besides, they can be bought. Buying markers, however, is useless, since with reasonable use they are quite enough. Just don't fix your car between rides. Wait until the cost of damage exceeds the earnings from one race, and then use the marker. In addition, you can drive a damaged car “all the way”, and then repair it. In the later stages of the game, it's even easier - eliminate damage for money, the cost of which is less than the price of the marker.

There is also a third type of markers - it has nothing to do with repairs. Such a marker drops out randomly, it can be exchanged for any car from the store.

Competitions

racing days

It would seem that there is still something new to come up with? It's racing! But no, EA invented or modified.

Firstly, now the races are now combined into "race days" (Race day). To pass the "racing day", you need to score a certain number of points, a certain amount of money is supposed to win, and let's not forget the lottery. Remember the markers in Most Wanted after defeating a blacklisted member? There is something similar here, only instead of paying off the police, you can win repair markers or spare parts for cars.

But after the victory, the competition does not end, there is a "second victory", called "dominance". For it, even more money is given and an additional chance to win something useful in the lottery.

Part of the competition takes place on cars provided by sponsors, and the winner can take one of his choice. On the one hand, it is convenient that someone else's car can be beaten as you like, it will still be repaired for free. On the other hand, you cannot customize the provided machine, so you will have to get used to its behavior “on the go”.

Races and points

So, in order to win "race day", you need to score a certain number of points. These points are awarded for winning (or losing) a race, and each type of competition has an additional modifier. For example, in drifting, drift points are added to the total. In addition, an additional bonus is due for the “clean” passage of the race, but it is insignificant and can be neglected.

This is the advice: do not repair the car between races. Between light damage and their absence - one touch. And between light and heavy - a whole abyss of blows and grinding. If during the race you have not reached the level of breakdown, then at the end of the race the prize for the “clean” passage of the track will still be credited.

Races are divided into four types: lap, drift, drag and speed. Each species (except drift) is divided into several subspecies. Let's look at them in more detail.

Circuit racing includes:

Circle (Grip)- normal arrival on the ring road. Whoever came to the finish line first, he won.
Circle with division (Grip Class)- eight participants are divided into two groups so that the engine power is in the same range. Cars from another group have nothing to do with the player and just get in the way on the track.
Sector Shootout- The route is divided into four segments. Starting, you start the timer, but instead of time points. When you cross the sector line, current points are added to your account. If you break your own or someone else's record, points are added again. In addition, the owner of all four sectors is one-time plus 500 points.
Time Attack- the usual circuit race, only the lap time is taken into account. All opponents also ride with you, but start a few seconds earlier. If you can outrun them, you are guaranteed to win.

Optimal car: with all-wheel drive. The fact is that front-wheel drive cars are not very powerful, while rear-wheel drive will contribute to skidding in corners - unless you have pedals or a joystick to smoothly adjust the fuel supply.

Additional modifier: target time. If you pass the track faster than the developers expect, you will get extra points

Drag includes:

Drag classic 1/4 mile (1/4 mile Drag)- conventional 402-meter drag. The winner is the one who puts the best time of arrival. In other words, the opponent on the right (or left) is only for beauty, because you are chasing time.
Drag 1/2 mile (1/2 mile Drag)- the extended version of the drag allows you to apply nitro twice, which is what you need to use. Otherwise, it does not differ from its classic counterpart.
Wheelie competition“Willie” is movement on two wheels. In our case, only the rear wheels are taken into account. This is the essence of the competition. You accelerate, turning the nose of the car up to the sky, and drive in this position as much as you can. Naturally, in order to compete in this form, you need a rear-wheel drive car, and a separate one is better.

Before each race, whether it's a classic or a wheelie, you are offered to warm up the tires. It is necessary to keep the engine speed in the specified zone in order to achieve optimal temperature and therefore better grip on the road. In fact, there is no special effect from this - most likely, this is only to maintain the atmosphere.

It is a myth: Tires don't warm up like that. From such warm-ups, the rubber simply burns out, remaining black spots on the track. Road grip only gets worse as the tire wears out and becomes "bald".

It is important: do not forget that the dredge takes into account the temperature of the engine. If you don't change gear for too long, causing the tachometer needle to dance in the red zone, the engine will seize up. However, this is not damage. Overheating equates to a false start.

Optimal car: for a dredge, you should choose a car with the best combination of power / speed. Popular American muscle cars like the Chevrolet Corvette 67’, for example, are only good in movies. A lot of power, little sense.

Any rear-wheel drive car will do for a wheelie, although many choose the Dodge Charger R/T. Don't be fooled by screensavers! "Willie" is great on the Zonda, you just need to remove the downforce and maximize the grip.

Additional modifier: target time. Each race is given a target time, and if you complete the course much faster, you will get extra points.

Speed racing includes:

Speed challenge- a greatly simplified analogue of the sprint, but it did not become worse from this. Even the sharpest turns here are passed at a speed of at least three hundred kilometers per hour. A pleasant competition, where, however, it is very easy to shake the car beyond recognition.
Competition for the best speed (Top speed run)- analogue of "Speeding" from Most Wanted. Only the speeds have become higher, and the tracks are smoother. To pass this type of races, I recommend setting the level of assistance to the "king".

Optimal car: rear or all wheel drive. There are no sharp turns, so there is no need to be afraid of drifts.

Additional modifier: target time. Here the target time is the easiest to beat, sometimes it is possible to improve the result even by a whole minute!

drift endowed with varieties. In fact, this is the same race as in the first Underground, but now it has become more like reality. It's really hard to make drifts, there are no multipliers, there are no reward points on the edge of the track either, and so on. But hits and damage only affect the prize for "purity", and nothing more.

Optimal car: I advise you to choose a front-wheel drive car for drifting. Machines of this type are better controlled during a skid.

Additional modifier: skid points. They are added to the total. Drift - The best way break records.

1 2 All

Over the thirteen-year history of the development of the Need for Speed series, one pattern was noticed: every second part of the NFS, as a rule, turned out to be much worse than the previous one. The pranksters called it the "curse of even-numbered episodes". If we take as an example what happened to the famous race after the release of Underground - namely, Underground 2 and Carbon - then the smile turns into a grimace. Every year we ended up in the same type of city, drove the same cars and did the same thing with them: screwed bumpers, dressed up the body with vinyls. The Underground idea was slowly dying - and the eleventh part of NFS, ProStreet, was simply forced to become something new.

Do not be surprised. This is not another arcade game from EA with fantastic controls. In fact, EA has created a completely new genre: street racing simulator. A hybrid of stylish body kits and airbrushing "Fast and the Furious" and harsh romance of circuit racing settings adjusted to the millimeter.

But don't tell that to producer Michael Mann. His EA Black Box team, responsible for NFS: Most Wanted, wants to keep ProStreet as far away from Fast and Furious as possible. This game is not a continuation of the series, but a significant deviation from the traditional course. A completely new direction.

Welcome to our races

At the next corner, the speed advantage will put us ahead.

The odious 1200 forces of the "Zonda" make it invincible in almost all types of races.

What is the first thing we all like to see in racing? Of course, a realistic damage system. So, now we will see dents, burst tires and torn bumpers in abundance. In the previous parts of the game, this was pretty lacking, it must be admitted.

For some, it's just another good game in the collection, but for esports players, it's a new battlefield. For the first time, the NFS series lit up at the championships in 2002. The history of cyber competitions began with Hot Pursuit 2, but it was from the time of Underground that this racing series was tightly registered in most major tournaments, along with such bison as Counter-Strike, Warcraft III and Starcraft. Need for Speed is presented at the World Cyber Games, Europe Cyber Games, ASUS Open, Russian Championship, Moscow Cup, Russian Cup, ClanBase Open - the list is long...

Racer Arsenal

Now let's figure out which devices are best used to control your virtual car.

Steering wheel

The steering wheel in any part of the NFS is usually the optimal manipulator. In addition to ease of use, the wheels also win hundredths of a second (and at the Pro level they decide a lot) due to the smoothness in turns. On sale there is a great variety of different steering wheels; prices range from fifty to several thousand dollars. Consider the best steering wheels that have proven themselves in NFS.

Logitech MOMO Racing Wheel

Reliable Logitech Formula Force EX.

Affordable Logitech MOMO Racing Wheel.

A time-tested veteran, it has been produced for more than a year. This handlebar is most common among riders due to its affordability and reliability. MOMO has six convenient programmable buttons, the steering wheel rotates 240 degrees, the mounting system tightly fixes the steering wheel at three points, the steering wheel with rubber coated provides a comfortable grip and precise control, the gas pedal quite clearly allows you to fix the acceleration of the car.

Logitech Formula Force EX

Kind a budget option MOMO. Interesting features include a unique steering wheel molding technology that ensures no seams and eliminates the use of screw connections, so you can grip the steering wheel without creaking, crackling or bending. It is worth noting that the steering column switches on this manipulator are the most convenient. Small in size, they allow very precise and fast gear changes. There are situations on the track when you need to drop from fifth or sixth gear to first or second; a striking example is the last hairpin turn on the Bay Bridge track from NFS: Most Wanted or a hard cutoff on the official WCG 2007 track - North Broadway from NFS: Carbon.

Logitech G25 Racing Wheel

The dream of any virtual racer. With a deep range of settings, this wheel is perfect for any racing game.

The G25 rotates 900 degrees (i.e., like in a real car, 2.5 turns), has a six-speed shift lever separate from the steering wheel, with reverse pressure activated, there is a convenient option for switching the gearbox from manual mode to sequential transmission mode .

Accelerator, brake and clutch pedals are made of stainless steel, which gives them additional reliability; Separately, I would like to note the gas pedal - never before has the dosage of the accelerator been given so easily.

Top Logitech G25

Keyboard

As a rule, most players use the keyboard. Achieving significant results on the keyboard is very problematic - or rather, almost impossible, since using the keyboard, you will lose an average of 0.75 - 1 second per circle due to the sharpness of the wheels. Handlebar riders win those nuggets with smooth turns and subtle fuel control. In NFS, a gap of 0.75 - 1 second is approximately 50-80 meters, and this is a serious advantage.

Gamepad

The gamepad is a good alternative to the steering wheel, but will require more practice to get stable on the track. Its obvious advantage over the steering wheels is only one - the size, with the gamepad it is much easier to drive around the various championships. good options will become Logitech Dual Action and Logitech Rumble Pad2.

Logitech Dual Action

This gamepad features two high-precision analog sticks with digital buttons for smooth 360-degree control. Quick Plug-and-Play connection allows you to immediately start playing, and this is a big plus, since in the championships 15-20 minutes are given to set up equipment and vehicles.

High-precision Logitech Dual Action.

Logitech Rumble Pad2

Old but still alive model. Appeared about two years ago, but is still relevant. The buttons are pressed easily and distinctly, they have a fairly large stroke (more than 1 mm). Shifts, however, are a little tight. The hats of analog sticks are large, with a rubber finish and practically do not slip when playing. The body is entirely made of rough, pleasant to the touch plastic.

visual tuning

Don't forget to warm up your tires!

External tuning is one of the few components that have not changed much since the previous parts. This, unfortunately, is not very good. Just like in Carbon, you can choose from three body kits, hoods, spoiler, roof buckets, wheels, etc. The number of parts remained almost the same, but now they can be modified. All changes in the autosculpt mode affect the characteristics of the car, namely the maximum speed and downforce. All body work is carried out in a wind tunnel, where you can immediately see the impact of all changes. This is very convenient when creating a car focused on a specific class of racing.

The paint system of the car has also changed a bit, but the categories like “flags”, “tribal”, “unique vinyls”, etc. have been preserved. The number of maximum layers has increased, now there are thirty of them. Note in brackets that there were only four of them in the first Underground.

To install the vinyl on the other side of the car, now you do not need to move it through the entire body, as there are key places from which the sticker can then be moved and changed (twisted, enlarged). All vinyls will be open from the very beginning, which is undoubtedly a plus.

Lamborghini has all-wheel drive, which means it holds up best on the track.

Knurled blackness - this is the trajectory of the track.

As in the previous two parts, by pressing the corresponding button, the photo mode is activated. You can still rotate and zoom the car, as well as upload photos to the EA server. Personally, we would like settings for brightness and contrast, shutter speed and focus. But the developers promise that in addition to the photo, the characteristics of the car will also be published (maximum speed, acceleration from 0-100 km / h, hp).

Tuning, in comparison with the previous parts (except for Porshe), has stepped forward a lot. If you want, change the stiffness of the springs and dampers, reduce or increase the ground clearance, adjust the engine and turbocharging control unit, and if you wish, create the necessary downforce on the front and rear axles of the car. It takes a lot of time and effort to set it all up correctly and get a good fast car. In addition, the tuning process is purely individual, since everyone feels the car and controls it differently. Someone likes cars with "blurred" handling, when the car seems to skid on a turn; some gravitate towards sharp and responsive steering, while others need balanced handling altogether.

The autopsy showed

Not enough strength at "Audi", bypass on a straight line.

Let's move on to disassembling the insides of our iron horse. The tuning screen evokes nostalgia for Underground 2. Do you remember that crazy amount of settings and details? Something similar awaits us in ProStreet. The developers have slightly eased the task of tuning compared to U2, removing the options for installing individual parts on the engine and suspension.

But before we get into the actual fine-tuning of your supercar, let's take a look at what affects what. After testing all the performance packages, we made the following conclusions. It turns out that Tier 3 performance packages aren't always better than entry-level packages. Since the tracks are different - high-speed, with an abundance of hairpins and chicanes - you need to select packages depending on what result you want to get, whether it is maximum acceleration or maximum speed, excessive or insufficient steering sensitivity.

It is interesting: A chicane is a series of tight, winding turns (usually in the shape of an S) on a road used in auto racing and on city streets to deliberately slow cars down. They are usually located at the end of long straights and are therefore the best places to overtake in modern racing.

And yet what is responsible for what? Let's go through the ingredients...

Engine performance packages affect overclocking and require adjustment.

Transmission affects acceleration and top speed and, like the engine, requires fine tuning.

Turbocharging (Forced Induction) affects acceleration dynamics. It is configured in conjunction with the engine.

Suspension affects speed performance and control. There are a lot of settings options, so that everyone can customize the control of any car for themselves.

Brakes affect the control only at the moment of braking. Settings as such are not required, the effect on the behavior of the machine is not too great. It is better to slow down by downshifting and reducing the fuel supply.

Tires affect acceleration and handling. Surprisingly, for the first time in long time different tires affect the behavior of the car in different ways - now it's not just "turns better" or "turns worse".

Nitric oxide (Nitrous Oxide) has an effect only at the time of its use, the packages differ in the number of cylinders (from one to three).

Body.As far as exterior tuning is concerned, details such as rims, roof air intakes, seats and frame do not affect performance. But combined body kits (Body kits) and spoilers (you set the values in the autosculpt mode) can significantly affect aerodynamics and handling.

There are four levels of detail and four levels of power, stability and vehicle aerodynamics. If you put the engine, turbo and transmission at the same time in the third level, this will give the overall performance of the fourth level. But the fourth level of details is something like unique details in the previous parts. At LAN championships such as WCG, ECG, ASUS CUP, these details are likely to be banned. We advise you to use them only to squeeze everything out of the car and defeat opponents in network mode.

Having picked up the necessary performance packages and tested the car at the factory settings, you can safely move on to fine-tuning “under the hood”.

mechanical heart

Suspension

As tests have shown, there are only two settings that affect the acceleration dynamics. These are the clearance (ride height) and the stiffness of the front and rear springs (spring rate). If you move the sliders to the left, the car will cling to the asphalt, and this is fraught with a loss of speed. If you move the slider in the opposite direction, acceleration will be worse due to a decrease in downforce. These settings need to be selected separately for each track - that is, find the minimum value at which the car does not touch the road, but does not “dangle”.

A very important point is the adjustment of the clearance, otherwise called "ground clearance". Too high values of this parameter lead to a deterioration in cornering stability (due to the “wing” effect, the air flow lifts the car), and too low values \u200b\u200bcause a change in the suspension geometry and poor handling (too low landing and high downforce require filigree control, otherwise, instead of turning you will fly off the track). But it is worth remembering that for better aerodynamics, it is necessary that the car be streamlined, that is, the rear of the car must be higher than its nose.

Since there are quite a lot of parameters in the suspension settings, we will analyze each one separately.

Front\Rear Shock Compression Rate (Soft—Stiff)

The compression ratio of the front / rear shock absorbers (soft—hard)

A softer suspension will absorb bumps in the road at the expense of handling. We set the maximum rigidity, since we have racing tracks, not city tracks. In addition, the rigid suspension prevents body roll when turning.

Front/Rear Shock Rebound Rate (Soft—Stiff)

The elasticity of the front / rear shock absorbers (softly—hard)

The speed at which a shock absorber returns to its original state after compression. We put on the most rigid position. The shock absorber absorbs part of the energy of the spring vibration and prevents the car from “loosening” in different directions. Soft suspension is good off-road, and we need maximum rigidity.

Front\Rear Spring Rate (Soft—Stiff)

Front/rear spring rate (soft—hard)

A soft spring is needed for a comfortable ride. She will calmly “eat” the bump, and the body will not get hit. The softer the suspension, the more inconspicuous the bumps, but the worse the handling and stability. The car will “talk” in different directions, and the behavior on the road will be unpredictable. Therefore, make the suspension as stiff as possible. Yes, this is a risk - the very first bump can lead to an uncontrollable skid, but this is irrelevant on the track, since the canvas is licked to a mirror shine.

Ride Height (Low—high)

ground clearance (low—high)

It is important that the clearance matches the suspension settings. The higher the car is raised, the higher its center of gravity and, therefore, the stronger the rolls when turning. In addition, there is a very high chance of rollover. The tighter the car, the lower the center of gravity and the more precise and responsive the handling. In addition, the low landing provides better aerodynamic qualities.

Front\Rear Roll Bar Stiffness (Soft—Stiff)

Anti-roll bar (softly—hard)

The anti-roll bar prevents the vehicle from rolling in a turn. Of course, a machine is not a pendulum. The swing here is barely noticeable, but very important. The fact is that the suspension of the car is designed so that the tire is parallel to the road. In a turn, the car rolls (along with the suspension, of course) and the contact area of the tire with the road decreases, which means that traction also decreases. The stiffness of the stabilizer should be set to three-quarters to improve cornering stability, but not to risk it, because an excessively stiff stabilizer can make the car behave unpredictably.

Front\Rear Tire Pressure (Low—high)

Front/rear tire pressure (low—high)

Tire pressure is an extremely important parameter for a racing car. The formula is simple: at high pressure, the car seems to fly over the road. Top speed and acceleration are better, but grip is worse. If the pressure is low, the contact area of the rubber with the road is larger, which means that the grip is better, but the speed characteristics are worse. The best option is to make the pressure lower in the driving wheels, and higher in the driven ones.

Camber (Positive—negative)

Camber (positive—negative)

Camber is the angle between the vertical and the plane of rotation of the wheel. Simply put, if you look at the wheel from the front (with the wheels level), the level position is neutral camber. If the top of the wheel sticks out, it is negative camber; if the lower one is positive. Negative camber is used only in circuit racing on the oval, and even then only on the inside wheels, so that the contact of the tire with the track is maximum.

Positive camber improves handling, because the car seems to cling to the road, but the tire wears out quickly in this position of the wheel, and the maximum speed decreases. We conclude that the convergence should be set closer to the "plus", but not far from the neutral position.

Toe (Positive—negative)

Convergence (positive—negative)

Convergence - the angle between the direction of movement and the plane of rotation of the wheel. Positive convergence is when the wheels are directed inward, and negative convergence is outward. Negative toe improves handling by providing sharper steering feedback. Positive increases stability on the road. The setting depends on the specific track, but in general it looks like this: if there are a lot of high-speed turns on the track, it is better to give preference to stability. And if there are more slow, tight turns, try moving the slider to a negative position.

Caster (Positive—negative)

Pivot tilt (positive—negative)

Increasing the tilt of the kingpin increases the stability of the machine on the trajectory and the speed on the straight line at the expense of poor controllability. The deterioration is insignificant, so put it in the extreme right position.

Steering Response Ratio (Loose—Stiff)

Feedback steering wheel (free—hard)

This value adjusts the steering sensitivity. Stiff steering helps to clearly pass a series of sharp turns, but at high speed any inaccuracy will lead to loss of stability and make the car uncontrollable. At speeds above three hundred kilometers per hour, a wrong move will cost you a car.

It is important: learn the trajectory and run around the track at standard suspension settings. Once you hit a stable time barrier, you can begin to analyze what can be improved and start changing the chassis settings. Only in this way will you feel the results of all those changes that you will make.

Tires

Tire settings do not affect speed. Higher level packages improve starting acceleration, but more speed is lost in corners (apparently due to different traction). Depending on the route, the necessary packages should be selected, so there are no specific instructions. Try and check.

Engine

For all engine parameters, the optimal position, as in the previous parts of the game, is +10, that is, all the power falls on maximum speed. No wonder, because it is at maximum speed that the whole race takes place.

Nitrous (Nitro)

Nitric oxide has only two parameters - pressure and injection force. We set the maximum pressure and the highest injection level. Both parameters regulate the increase in speed and power of the engine. Too high a value can lead to slipping and loss of control, too small - to the fact that the nitro will burn out, and you will not even notice it.

Gearbox (Drive train)

Unlike the Carbon, here the gearbox setting is logical: short gears give quick acceleration and, accordingly, a low top speed. Long ones allow you to gain more speed, but the tachometer needle gets to high speeds much longer. Start running the track at the factory settings of the box, and having understood at what speeds it is best to take turns on the track, select the gear ratios.

It is important: for a quarter-mile drag, we recommend this setting: make the first gear longer to get into the ideal zone at the start; the second and third are set as short as possible. We make the fourth gear the longest, on it you just need to turn on the nitro. A half-mile drag is almost the same, but you can use nitro twice, which means you need two long passes. The second and fourth are just right.

Brakes

Brake settings do not affect speed, but with the third level package the car is faster than with the factory one. What caused this is not clear. Standard lottery Need for Speed.

A little practice

In drafting, there is a danger that the pilot in front will suddenly apply the brakes.

Since there are collisions between cars in the game, it is necessary to correctly calculate the strategy for the start and subsequent race. In other words, we either, knowing the tactics of the opponent, get ahead from the start and try not to lose the advantage in the first half of the circle, and in order to consolidate the gap until the end of the race, we play on defense; or we skip the opponent forward and try to immediately settle down behind. If you take a position exactly behind the enemy car, a draft is activated - a system for calculating the air cut and the resistance of the car body. As soon as the distance between you is within 0.1-0.5 seconds, you will be able to pick up speed one and a half times faster due to reduced air resistance. This needs to be played. Wait until the enemy has used up the entire supply of nitric oxide. He won't get far from you because of the draft, but you will have nitric oxide left for a lightning-fast winning spurt.

Need for Speed is not circuit racing. Tactics and styles are born right on the track here, so don't be afraid to improvise, the game is conducive to this.

The correct setting of the machine provides only a quarter of the total time, everything else is a verified trajectory of movement. Therefore, the key point, of course, is experience. So don't waste your time and practice more. Only in this way can you achieve significant results.

Suspension- As tests have shown, there are only two settings that affect the acceleration dynamics. These are the clearance (Ride height) and the stiffness of the front and rear springs (Spring rate). If you move the sliders to the left, the car will cling to the asphalt, and this is fraught with a loss of speed. If you move the slider in the opposite direction, acceleration will be worse due to a decrease in downforce. These settings need to be selected separately for each track - that is, find the minimum value at which the car does not touch the road, but does not “dangle”

A very important point is the adjustment of the clearance, otherwise called "Ground clearance". Too high values of this parameter lead to a deterioration in cornering stability (due to the “Wing” effect, the air flow raises the car), and too low values \u200b\u200blead to a change in the suspension geometry and poor handling (too low landing and high downforce require filigree control, otherwise, instead of turning you will fly off the track). But it is worth remembering that for better aerodynamics, it is necessary that the car be streamlined, that is, the rear of the car must be higher than its nose. Since there are quite a lot of parameters in the suspension settings, we will analyze each separately.

Front\Rear Shock Compression Rate (Soft - Stiff)
Compression ratio front/rear shock absorbers (Soft - Hard)

Front\Rear Shock Rebound Rate (Soft - Stiff)
Elasticity front/rear shock absorbers (Soft - Hard)

Front\Rear Spring Rate (Soft - Stiff)
Front/Rear spring rate (Soft - Hard)

A soft spring is needed for a comfortable ride. She will calmly “eat” the bump, and the body will not get hit. The softer the suspension, the more inconspicuous the bumps, but the worse the handling and stability. The car will "Chat" in different directions, and the behavior on the road will be unpredictable. Therefore, make the suspension as stiff as possible. Yes, this is a risk - the very first bump can lead to an uncontrollable skid, but this is irrelevant on the track, since the canvas is licked to a mirror shine

Ride Height (Low - High)
Clearance (Low - High)

Front\Rear Roll Bar Stiffness (Soft - Stiff)
Roll Stabilizer (Soft - Hard)

Front\Rear Tire Pressure (Low - High)
Pressure in Front\Rear tires (Low - High)

Tire pressure is an extremely important parameter for a racing car. The formula is simple: at high pressure, the car seems to fly over the road. Top speed and acceleration are better, but grip is worse. If the pressure is low, the area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the road is larger, which means better grip, but speed characteristics are worse. The best option: in the driving wheels, make the pressure lower, and in the driven ones - higher

Camber (Positive - Negative)
Camber

Camber is the angle between the vertical and the plane of rotation of the wheel. To put it simply, when looking at the wheel from the front (with wheels level), the level position is neutral camber. If the top of the wheel sticks out, it is negative camber; if lower - positive. Negative camber is used only in circuit racing on the oval, and even then only on the inside wheels, so that the contact of the tire with the track is maximum. Positive camber improves handling, because the car seems to cling to the road, but the tire wears out quickly in this position of the wheel, and the maximum speed decreases. We conclude that the convergence should be set closer to the "Plus", but not far from the neutral position

toe (Positive - Negative)
Convergence (Positive - Negative)

Convergence - the angle between the direction of movement and the plane of rotation of the wheel. Positive toe is when the wheels point inward, and negative toe out. Negative toe improves handling by providing sharper steering feedback. Positive increases stability on the road. The setting depends on the specific track, but in general it looks like this: if there are a lot of high-speed turns on the track, it is better to give preference to stability. And if there are more slow, tight turns, try moving the slider to a negative position.

caster (Positive - Negative)
Kingpin tilt (Positive - Negative)

Steering Response Ratio (Loose - Stiff)
steering feedback (Loose - Rigid)

Engine
For all engine parameters, the optimal position, as in the previous parts of the game, is +10, that is, all the power falls on maximum speed. No wonder, because it is at maximum speed that the whole race takes place.

Nitrous (Nitro)
Nitric oxide has only two parameters - pressure and injection force. We set the maximum pressure and the highest injection level. Both parameters regulate the increase in speed and power of the engine. Too high a value can lead to slipping and loss of control, too small - to the fact that the nitro will burn out, and you will not even notice it

Gearbox (Drive train)
Unlike the Carbon, here the gearbox setting is logical: short gears give quick acceleration and, accordingly, a low top speed. Long ones allow you to gain more speed, but the tachometer needle gets to high speeds much longer. Start running the track at the factory settings of the box, and having understood at what speeds it is best to take turns on the track, select the gear ratios.

Brakes
Brake settings do not affect speed, but with the third level package the car is faster than with the factory one. What caused this is not clear. Standard lottery Need for Speed