A failed outlet is one of the most unpleasant situations for the owner, since it requires almost immediate intervention. To repair any outlet problems, you can call an electrician or apply own hands. The second option is more economical, but without knowledge in electrics it is more dangerous. Do you agree?

We will tell you how to replace or repair an electric point with your own hands. We have a detailed description of the work process. Taking into account our recommendations, even a person who is ignorant of the intricacies of electrical installation will be able to cope with this matter.

For a visual perception of information, we have attached useful diagrams, photo collections and video instructions to it.

Each person in his life faced situations when, when turning on a household appliance, incomprehensible things began to happen.

Among them, a strange crack, a slight haze or a bright flash, after which the light in the room completely disappears. A signal about the presence of malfunctions is also a melted body and unpleasant feeling burning smell.

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The main cause of malfunctions in the operation of sockets, in particular sparking, is an illiterate installation of the device.

Outlet malfunctions are detected when the rules for connecting the device to the wiring are violated, for example, when connecting copper and aluminum without an adapter

Due to the excess load when connecting devices with a power higher than the permissible value, overheating occurs over the wiring cross section and, as a result, fire

Malfunctions are also observed if the outlet was connected to old wiring with damaged insulation or too much insulation was removed from the wires for installation.

Connection quality is a guarantee of normal operation

Violations of the rules for connecting the device to the network

Fire situation due to overload

Breakage and damage or wear of conductor insulation

Together with the outlet, in such cases, the fuses of the device may be damaged, the wiring may be damaged, and even the microcircuits of household appliances may burn out. In most cases, you can protect yourself from the consequences of a short circuit thanks to automatic protection in the electrical panel.

But it’s not worth hoping and relying on it 100%, because. the machine, by analogy with other devices, tends to wear out and burn out.

If malfunctions are detected in the outlet, it is imperative to immediately remove the load by disconnecting the household appliance from the mains and proceed to troubleshoot and solve problems.

Regardless of the cause of the malfunction, you should immediately take measures to eliminate the source of damage and replace the socket

To make sure that the socket is really damaged, the first step is to connect an electrical appliance to it, in the correct operation of which there is no doubt.

If a normally functioning lamp, for example, does not please with normal operation when connected to this point, measures must be taken to eliminate the breakdown.

A melted outlet must be replaced. In case of reflow due to insufficient technical capabilities, the device with the required characteristics is changed

Initial inspection of the outlet

There are several options to determine the type of fault in the connector. The very first is a visual inspection of the front of the outlet for external defects.

Since the front side of the socket is made of plastic, there is a possibility of cracks during operation. More serious damage can include traces of soot or melted connector holes.

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The sparking of the socket often leads to melting of the contacts and polymer parts of the plug, which, as a result, is fraught with a fire.

If no spark occurs when the plug is inserted into another outlet, then the reason is really in the outlet.

Mismatching the size of the plug and socket can loosen the contacts, which invariably leads to the need for replacement or repair

To ensure the normal operation of devices, the plugs of which do not fit the sockets, it is necessary to use adapters

Plug melting due to electrical outlet sparking

Checking the correct connection to another outlet

Loose contacts due to plug mismatch

Adapter to the outlet to extend its working life

Reflow sockets have three main reasons:

• The load current is greater than the capacity of the device or wiring. When a power flow flows through a narrow channel for it, its density naturally increases. As a result, the load increases, then overheating occurs. In such cases, the socket must be replaced with a new device with suitable characteristics.
• The insulation of the conductors in the connection area to the socket mechanism is broken. The reason lies in the non-compliance with the installation technology of the device, in cuts and damage to the insulation due to awkward actions. You need to change the melted socket for a device with equivalent characteristics, not forgetting to remove damaged wires.
• Contact problems. They could simply oxidize or weaken. The problem is solved by stripping or pulling up.

In addition to visual problems with the output, there are a couple of ways to determine the problem with the connected device. Let's consider them below.

A common cause of a blown outlet is mechanical damage contacts. Most often this is a consequence of inept installation.

Looseness of the contact system

In the case of any outlet, you can find two plates of copper. They have semicircular bends for a female plug. The principle of operation of these plates is quite simple. When connecting a household appliance to the mains socket, the plates strongly clamp the edges of the plug.

Accordingly, after many cycles of unplugging and reconnecting the plug to the connector, the plates can bend away from each other. This will cause the fork to hold looser each time.

A loose screw does not allow the sockets to hold the plug of the appliance well, so the brass petals must be moved

As one of the options for correctly diagnosing problems, you can take a plug from any household appliance and insert it into the connector only halfway. If the cord does not fall out, then the probability that the contact remains intact is very high.

The second way is to connect audio speakers or a lamp to an outlet, after which you need to move the plug. If interference occurs in this case, it is necessary to replace the socket as soon as possible, since the copper contact plates inside have simply bent.

The light from the lamp began to blink or completely disappeared when the fork was moving - this sure sign the need to replace the socket

Detection of this kind of malfunctions will allow you to correct the breakdown in a timely manner, spending much less time and money on it, as well as avoiding accidental fire.

A fairly common case of damage and subsequent malfunction of the power socket is incorrect handling of the plug of household electrical appliances. With careless handling of equipment, you can incorrectly pull the wire of the device and trouble will occur when the socket, together with the plug, simply falls out of the wall.

Differences between the two electrical standards

The joint operation of sockets and plugs of two standards at a load of a couple of tens of watts is a perfectly acceptable practice. But, when the power of the consumed electric power increases, even up to the requirements recommended by the manufacturer, differences in designs and parts can lead to failure of the mains sockets or plugs.

Thicker electrodes at the European standard plug push the brass petals much more apart in the socket of the Soviet-style socket. The springs are stretched, and this, in turn, gradually causes increased heating of the contacts.

Moreover, the standard socket does not have recesses in the case as on the euro plug. The plug is not fully inserted into such a socket, which can lead to unpredictable contact with the electrodes or a short circuit.

No more tension

An equally common option for failure of the outlet. When you connect any household appliance, nothing happens, it does not work, because there is no voltage. This is confirmed by checking with instruments equipped with an indicator. It's most likely a broken power cable.

Preparing to repair an outlet with your own hands

After conducting a visual inspection and finding out the exact causes of the malfunction, preparations for repair can begin. First of all, we tune in to work, stop panicking, worrying and being nervous. Decisiveness and calmness are the main weapons needed for a successful repair.

This must be done carefully so as not to accidentally touch the live fragments with your hand. Thus, you can completely de-energize the room. It is also important to check the presence of voltage in the outlet that needs repair. This is done with an indicator screwdriver.

Socket repair tool kit

In order for only good impressions to remain after the repair, it is necessary to have a set of improvised tools for all occasions.

Repairs are much easier to carry out with tools such as:

• indicator screwdriver to determine the phase, the presence of voltage in the mains;
• Phillips and flat screwdrivers;
• pliers or pliers;
• vinyl tape for insulation;
• sharp knife;
• soldering iron (in some cases).

One of the important points is that the handles of pliers, screwdrivers and other tools used must have an insulating coating or be rubberized. This will prevent accidental electric shock.

Do-it-yourself socket repair

After checking the voltage, it's time to start the repair. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the bolt, which is located in the center of the connector. This allows you to remove the outlet cover and gain access to the filling. Checking the status of contacts. If copper has a greenish tint, this is a sign of oxidation, if gray or black, it is an indicator of poor contact.

Veins can be distinguished by color. The most popular way is: zero - blue cable, phase - red / white, ground cable - green-yellow

How to fix such an outlet? For example, when the contacts are dark in color, they need to be cleaned. For this, a needle file is usually used, but you can use sandpaper. There are situations when the metal in certain places has become much thinner, and through holes appear on the contacts themselves. In this case, the socket must already be replaced.

Tightening loose contacts

After removing the socket from the wall, it is necessary to tighten all fasteners, screws and contacts with a suitable screwdriver. If the wire or terminals have an uncharacteristic color, soot, you can use a sharp knife and clean them to shine.

Heavily charred wires must be replaced with a new piece or simply cut off (with a sufficient margin of length). Any twists must be insulated with vinyl tape. The socket, the contacts of which are destroyed, cannot be repaired and requires a complete replacement.

Usually the plug enters the electrical outlet under a certain pressure. This is ensured by well-adjusted contacts. If not, then we are working on solving this problem.

After that, you need to check how securely the wires are connected directly to the outlet. We tighten them if necessary, but not much. They should not twitch and fall out. Each bare wire that is connected to the outlet must be well wrapped with electrical tape.

The spacer "antennae" of the socket, stuck into the installed plastic socket box, will be able to firmly hold the socket from popping out for a long time

What to do when the whole outlet is walking from side to side? The solution to this problem is quite simple. It is necessary to tighten the set bolts located on the left and right. If they are well and correctly tightened, then the socket will sit in its place.

Connecting a new outlet

First of all, a power wire is connected to the contacts. To do this qualitatively, you need 5-10 mm from the core through which the current will flow. The bare part of the wiring must be put into the terminal and pressed well with a screw.

Do not be too zealous when tightening the screw, otherwise this will lead to the fact that the wire will be transferred, and in the worst case, it will break.

You can connect the wires in two ways: quickly or securely. A reliable connection means that the ends of the stripped wires will be bent into a ring of small diameter (4–5 mm). Only after that they must be brought into the terminals and tightened. Quick connection provides easy connection, no twisting.

A reliable way of connecting contacts requires much more time, but is compensated by a number of advantages, for example:

• contact is stronger;
• the degree of heating of the contact is much less, since the area of ​​​​contact of the wire with the current-carrying contact is much higher.

Connection is slightly different from installation without it. The wire, most often green, is connected to the ground terminal. Before connecting, make sure that given vein is indeed a ground wire.

A wire with several cores can also be tinned before connection. You can use a soldering iron for this.

The next step is to install the device in the socket. The working part is installed after the complete connection of all wires. Installation takes place at the same level as the wall, without distortions and protrusions. All wires must be neatly twisted and hidden in the socket.

Fixing the socket in the correct position is carried out using special clamps. They can be adjusted with screws. If you twist them, then the paws will fix the socket from the inside.

If your outlet does not have paws, then this is a new type of device, which is equipped with clamping screws. The last step is screwing the cover.

You can screw the cover after the successful completion of the installation of the socket, the working part must be tightly screwed into the socket

Restoration of a socket that fell out of the wall

A malfunction of this kind is not the most pleasant reward for careless use. household appliances.

To get out of this situation, you can use the two most common options: short-term or long-term:

• The first method involves twisting the petals much more than usual. This will allow the product to stay in its place for some time and serve faithfully.
• A durable method requires significantly more time, as well as the availability of tools and new fixtures.

The main reason for the outlet falling out of the wall is, just, non-working petals. The solution in this case will be the modernization of the seat.

The need to repair the outlet often appears. The device can loosen in the fasteners, sometimes a short circuit occurs, and a number of other troubles happen. It is quite possible to repair the outlet with your own hands, if you strictly follow the recommendations.

Signs of a failed outlet

Some malfunctions of sockets in the apartment are safe and easily fixed, others threaten damage to electrical appliances or are generally dangerous to human life. The reason may lie in the wrong, poor-quality installation of the electrical outlet, and in the wear and tear of the old device.

Most often, the fastening of contacts deteriorates in the product, which begin to stagger, weaken. The wires in the house are often made of aluminum, which is highly ductile and can quickly lose strength. As a result, contacts begin to stick poorly. Repairing the socket in this case is simple: you need to strengthen the contacts by pulling up. If copper wire runs through the thickness of the walls, this problem is minimized or completely absent.

A more serious nuisance that requires intervention is the loss of the device. The product may fall out if the contacts were not fixed in time. The electrical outlet is able to get out of the wall a little or fall out.

Other possible signs of a device malfunction:

• bursting, chipping off the decorative cover;
• jumping out of the socket;
• burnt power wire.

Sometimes outwardly the device does not look broken, but when turned on, the appliance does not work. The electrical outlet may spark, smoke, or malfunction, smell like burnt plastic, and become hot. All these are signs of a malfunction, such a product needs repair.

When self-repair of the outlet is possible

Before replacing the product, it is important to soberly assess the severity of the breakdown and your skills. If the problem is serious, it is better to de-energize the apartment and call a specialist.

It is quite possible to fix contacts yourself, correct other minor violations. With experience, it is quite possible to carry out any repair yourself.

Outlet Inspection

To begin with, it is important to carefully examine the place of the future repair. This is necessary to identify the cause of the breakdown and determine the scope of work.

Visual inspection can provide useful information. If cracks or chips appear, the fault is a poor-quality socket or its improper operation.

Soot, melting, heating of the device occur for the following reasons:

• too high voltage electric current in wiring;
• violation of wire insulation when connecting - cuts, damage;
• oxidation or severe loosening of contacts.

If the contact system is loose

Any electrical outlet is attached with screws on the front side. If you unscrew the outer box of the product, you can see metal plates inside - contacts that have bends for plugging in the plug, and when the device is connected, they squeeze the plug.

Gradually, the plates weaken, bend in different directions. To clarify the problem, you can insert the plug of the lamp into the socket. Next, you need to move the plug: if the light starts flashing, the contacts will definitely move away.

Different electrical standards

Despite the indicated power of wiring and electrical appliances, many use devices with a higher load on sockets. When the standards for the use of electricity do not match, the design of the devices does not match the wires in the house, both the sockets and the devices themselves may fail.

The device can break down due to the constant pushing of equipment with a Euro plug into an unsuitable outlet - the springs are stretched, the metal contacts are bent. If the plug is not fully inserted into the socket, it may even cause a short circuit.

No voltage

Sometimes devices do not start working after being plugged into the outlet. If you take an indicator screwdriver, it will not show the presence of voltage in the network. Usually this means disconnecting the wire. The device will have to be removed, the wires connected again.

Consider the connection diagram according to the color of the wires:

• phase - red;
• zero - blue with white;
• grounding - yellow-green.

All work must be carried out only when the electricity is turned off: this is done by turning off the machines in the shield.

First you need to remove the electrical outlet, then do correct installation new product according to the scheme. Then you need to tighten the screws on the protective cover.

After turning on the electricity, you should test the device for 5 minutes by connecting any device. Normally, there will be no strange sounds inside the electrical outlet, there will be no smell, the plastic will not heat up.

Measures to prepare for repairs

Repairs should be made only after preparation for it. Even to fix the most minor problems, you should turn off the power to the apartment and make sure that the circuit breakers are turned off. After a power outage, you should check the voltage in the network with an indicator screwdriver - it should be absent in the phase.

What is needed for repair

Every electrician has a tool kit. If a complete set no, then its individual components will have to be purchased to repair the electrical outlet.

In addition to the indicator screwdriver, you will need the following materials and tools:

• flat screwdriver;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• pliers (pliers);
• insulating tape (vinyl);
• sharp knife for stripping wires.

For some breakdowns, a soldering iron may come in handy.

Important! The best electrician's tools are those with rubberized handles.

Carrying out repairs

When the preparatory activities are completed, you can dismantle the outlet. To do this, unscrew the central bolt, remove the decorative cover.

After that, you can proceed to inspect the contacts. If they change color to black or brown, you will have to change the entire outlet. The greening of the plates means their oxidation - such contacts can be cleaned with sandpaper or a sharp knife. If the contacts are thinner down to the holes, the socket must also be urgently changed.

Pull-up contacts

When there are signs of loosening of the contact plates, the actions will be as follows:

1. Remove cover from socket.
2. Carefully remove the device from the recess in the wall without damaging the wires.
3. Tighten the screws with a screwdriver.
4. Cut the charred wires with a sharp knife.
5. Isolate the places of twists with tape.
6. Put the product in place.

If the contacts are too damaged, you should play it safe and buy a new electrical outlet. When the contacts are simply unbent, they can be bent by gently pressing with a screwdriver.

Installing a new outlet

The need to install a new electrical outlet often arises. First you need to disassemble the old socket, and then do the following work:

1. Remove the insulation from the wires by 1 cm.
2. Bend the bare wires with rings of 0.5 diameter.
3. Connect the wiring in the wall and the wires of the socket in accordance with the diagram, clamp it with screw terminals.
4. Once again, make sure that the ground wire is connected correctly (not to phase or zero, but to the ground wire).
5. Plug the electrical outlet into the socket (the device should not stick out of the wall, be skewed, crooked).
6. Gently bend the wires, hide in a glass.
7. Fix the electrical outlet itself with the clamps on the sides or with special screws.
8. Screw on the decorative trim.

When the socket fell out

Usually the cause of such a problem is improper operation of appliances and pulling the plugs by the cord. To prevent this from happening, the rosette petals are screwed tighter. But even this method does not always protect the device from damage if it is carelessly used.

Some put a piece of sandpaper or linoleum under the petals, then such methods are short-lived. It is better to carry out a complete repair by buying a high-quality socket box. The new electrical outlet will last a long time without complaints.

Tools and materials for repairing a dropped outlet

For work you will need:

• new socket;
• dry gypsum or cement, alabaster;
• sharp knife;
• putty knife;
• primer;
• mounting tools.

Socket restoration work

After turning off the electricity in the apartment, you need to remove the old outlet. If there is a metal glass, it must be replaced with a plastic one. If the device is in a concrete niche without a glass, you will have to deepen it and also install a new socket box that matches the shape. You can expand the niche with a perforator, a chisel with a hammer.

Next, you should dilute the alabaster or gypsum to the state of a thick slurry, fix the socket in concrete or drywall, planting it on the mixture. The wall must first be moistened with a primer, and the wallpaper around should be pasted over with paper tape. After 10 minutes, the glass should be leveled, excess gypsum should be cut off with a spatula. After fixing the socket box with the screws located on it. Then you can mount a new outlet.

An outlet is a device that is used all the time. In some places of the house or apartment, it even accounts for several connections during the day. In addition, depending on the power of the connected household appliances, a considerable current load falls on the outlet. No wonder that sooner or later, but there comes a time when it begins to show signs of malfunction.

It is by no means impossible to ignore even insignificant, it would seem, “symptoms” of abnormal work. What seems like a trifle now can turn into serious consequences tomorrow. What to do - call an electrician? It is possible that for some homeowners who are completely unaware of the basic issues of electrical engineering, this is the best option. But if there are certain concepts, and “hands grow correctly”, then you can carry out repair and restoration work on your own. In this publication, we will see how to fix the outlet on our own.

Main outlet malfunctions

First of all, let's figure out what signals can indicate that the outlet needs urgent repairs.

• An appliance that is plugged into a power outlet suddenly stops working or does not function properly. For example, lighting fixture flashes, the fan starts and then stops, etc. In this case, no other symptoms of a malfunction are detected.

To make sure that the matter is really in the outlet, and not in the equipment connected to it (there may be, for example, malfunctions of the plug or power cord), you can conduct "testing". For this purpose, a multimeter is suitable, which is set to alternating voltage (ACV ˃ 300 V). In the presence of voltage, the device should show this by its value in volts.

If the tester is “silent” or the voltage readings are clearly unstable, then the problem most likely lies precisely in the outlet.

It is clear that not every home has a multimeter (although it never hurts to have one). And the usual indicator screwdriver in this case may not give an objective picture. So, for example, it is able to show the phase, but this does not mean at all that everything is in order with the outlet. True, the absence of a phase will immediately indicate a problem. But after all, the problem may be in the conductor or on the contacts of zero. How to check in this case?

To do this, some device is connected to the outlet, in the performance of which the owner is 100 percent sure. And best of all, it should not be any complicated electronics - power surges can “kill” it. The optimal solution is a cartridge with an incandescent lamp, to which a piece of power cord with a plug at the end is connected.

To make such a “tester” on your own, which, by the way, can still be used for cutting later, is a matter that does not require large costs and time. But the picture is obtained objectively. The presence of voltage is immediately visible, and by the evenness of the glow, the absence of blinking or flickering, one can also judge the degree of reliability of the contacts in the socket.
If there is no voltage, or it is unstable, repair is indispensable.

• The second sign that requires an immediate response. The device connected to the outlet works normally, but the “aroma” of burnt insulation was clearly drawn from the outlet.

This may be a symptom of the "beginning of the end". Most often this happens if the load connected to the outlet exceeds the allowable load. The wires leading to it begin to heat up, and from here it is already one step away from a serious accident.

Thus, you should immediately “detect” what specifically was connected to the outlet at the time such a sign appeared. A common reason is that a tee or extension cord is connected, and to it is a whole “garland” of devices, the total power of which for some reason does not bother the owners.

If the problem is eliminated when the total load is normalized, then most likely the socket is working. And from the owners only prudence is required in its further exploitation. And if the load is not initially seen as excessive, you will have to figure it out further. But in any case, the outlet will have to be at least “inspected”.

• The third group of signs, or rather, already clear signals that far from everything is in order with the outlet. This includes not just the smell that has appeared, but the smoke rising from the outlet. The work is accompanied by sparking, which is manifested both by characteristic crackling and light flashes. The body of the outlet obviously heats up, and sometimes to such temperatures that the plastic begins to “float”.

Any load should be immediately removed from such an outlet - it is already very close to a fire hazardous situation. And repair work should start without delay.

There is no or intermittent power loss at the outlet

So, there are no alarm signals - no smell, no heating, no melting, no sparking yet. But there is no voltage on the outlet, or it appears in fits and starts. If this is not observed on other outlets, then the matter is most likely a break (break) in the wiring. There are, however, other "exotic" cases when this is due to the marriage of the mechanism of the outlet itself. But here the repair will not do - you will have to change it completely.

So, it remains to determine where this break occurred.

To do this, the line is de-energized, and then the outlet is dismantled. This operation, by the way, is similar for almost all repair cases. So we won't repeat ourselves.

Dismantling the outlet

Dismantling is carried out in the following sequence:

1 - using an indicator screwdriver, you should once again make sure that there is no phase in the socket, and there is no danger of electric shock.

2 - the screw holding the socket cover on its body is unscrewed. In some models of sockets (for example, in double ones), there may be two screws, and sometimes even three. It's easy to understand.

3 - the socket cover and the decorative frame are removed if the design is collapsible.

4 - two screws are unscrewed (not completely), which release the locking tabs that rest against the walls of the socket box.

5 - if the socket is installed in a modern-type socket, then two self-tapping screws fixing its support are completely unscrewed.

6 - after that, the socket mechanism can be carefully removed from the socket. Usually, at this stage, an initial inspection is immediately carried out - often malfunctions are already visible to the “naked eye”. For example, when a wire is pulled out of a socket, it simply pops out of the terminal socket.

7 - the next step should be to remove the wires from the socket terminals. But here an important remark must be made. And it primarily applies to those cases where the outlet has a ground contact.

The problem may be that wiring is not always done with wires with color-coded insulation. According to the rules, there should be a blue conductor at zero, and yellow-green on the ground loop. The phase can have different colors, but different from zero and ground. But if all the wires are the same color? And this is very common, especially in old houses where the wiring was once done with a three-wire wire in ordinary white insulation. To confuse the places of zero and phase - usually will not cause a big problem. But connecting the wrong ground is a dangerous business.

Therefore, in such cases, before disconnecting the wires from the terminals, it is necessary to remember their location. And in order not to rely on memory, which can fail, it is better to immediately mark the wires - stick strips of plaster on them and sign them.

After that, the screws in the terminals are loosened, and the stripped ends of the wires are removed from the sockets.

8 - the end result of dismantling: an open socket box with wires sticking out of it.

The wires should be spread apart. After that, you can turn on the line and check for voltage, but, of course, not at the outlet, but directly on the wires. An indicator screwdriver will help identify the presence - this check is often enough (50 to 50). A multimeter or a simple "tester" with a light bulb will show if there is an operating voltage.

Finding a broken wire

It is likely that there was a break in the wire right in the socket. This is a fairly common occurrence if the previous installation of the outlet was done carelessly. And especially if aluminum wiring is suitable for the outlet.

Often, even visually, you can determine the location of the cliff. Here, the insulation may have an area of ​​darkening or even through damage, a clear fracture may be noticeable. But if there are no visible signs, then the wires are probed with fingers for a shift and a break - and it is not difficult to find the place of the break under the insulation. So you should check all the wires suitable for the outlet.

The damaged (broken off) section of the wire is completely cut off. You can immediately cut the oxidized or burnt end of the second wire. Usually they are left about the same length - it's easier to install.

And by and large, it would be useful to cut off the ends that were previously clamped in the terminals, even if they seem to have no damage. With a secondary clamping - they may well break off. This is especially true for aluminum.

At the remaining whole ends, the insulation is stripped, approximately 10 mm. Now you need to spread the wires to the sides, then turn on the machine on the shield, and again check for voltage. If there is no voltage, then the problem will have to be looked for elsewhere. This is either a malfunction on the shield, or a break in the hidden wiring.

But, as a rule, the result is positive. That is, the reason (wire breakage) was found and eliminated, it remains to install the socket in place. And for this again line is obligatory de-energized!

Extension of wires remaining in the socket

But here a new problem often arises - the remaining length of the wires is often not enough to connect to the outlet terminals. So they will have to be lengthened.

For this, two segments of a single-core copper wire section 2.5 mm². Their length should be such that, after connecting with the ends sticking out of the wall, they come out of the socket by about 80 ÷ 100 mm.

How to make a secure connection?

twists

One of the simplest, as it may seem, ways to connect wires are twists. However, with them everything is not so clear.

• If a copper wire comes out of the wall, then you can twist it, and then solder it for reliability. After that, the twist is carefully insulated (with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing).

• For high-quality, reliable twisting, special wiring caps can be used. They have a dielectric housing in which a metal cone-shaped insert with spiral threads is placed. This design feature provides the tightest clamping of the conductors when twisting, reliable contact between them.

What to do if aluminum wires are included in the socket? - is strictly prohibited. This connection becomes a potential site for sparking and ignition. Copper and aluminum have mutual chemical influence on each other, which does not contribute to reliable electrical contact. In addition, the difference in the conductivity of the surface oxidized layer of these metals is very significant. Add to this also a different coefficient of linear expansion during heating - and there can no longer be any talk of any reliability of the connection.

Twisting of such conductors is possible only with their preliminary tinning, and with subsequent soldering of the connection. But this is easy to say, but in reality everything is much more complicated. For soldering aluminum it is necessary to use special compositions. Yes, and without the experience of performing such operations, too, can not do. So this option is hardly worth considering.

Maybe build up a short aluminum wire with a twist with the same aluminum piece? Also not an option. It is better to use a copper conductor to connect to the socket terminals. This will be discussed below.

To complete with twists, we add that this is far from always possible in the case under consideration. Once we are talking about building a short wire left in the socket, its length is often simply not enough to make such a connection. After all, it is necessary, well, at least a minimum of 20 ÷ 25 mm of stripped wire, and at the same time that at least 10 ÷ 15 mm at the entrance to the socket remain in its insulation - for the subsequent isolation of the connection (sorry for the tautology). Yes, and contriving in the cramped space of the socket to perform high-quality twisting with a short wire is a difficult task, and sometimes not at all feasible.

Sleeve connection with crimping

Connection by crimping using special sleeves. The contact, when properly executed, is very reliable, designed for high current loads.

There is no shortage of such sleeves in our time - they are widely represented in stores. Moreover, you can also purchase special GAM sleeves designed for reliable connection of copper and aluminum wires.

These sleeves not only provide a specific coating for each of the conductors. The required section transition is also taken into account - 2.5 mm² copper to 4.0 mm² aluminum, 1.5 mm² to 2.5 mm², etc. That is, the difference in the permissible current load is also taken into account.

Sleeve connections are very easy to insulate with heat shrink tubing. That is, they seem to be a very good option for building wires. If not for a few "buts".

First: for a quality connection, you cannot do without a specific tool - special press tongs. It is clear that they are usually available only to professional electricians.

Second: when connecting a short wire in a cramped socket box, it may simply be impossible to start the press tongs and perform high-quality crimping of the sleeve.

Using spring terminals

These terminals are of two main types.

• Ordinary, with a flat-spring contact mechanism. When a conductor protected from insulation is inserted into the hole, the spring bends around and creates a tight contact with its surface. Moreover, this contact does not weaken over time, as is often the case with screw terminals that require periodic tightening.

Many terminals have a transparent case, which allows you to visually track how the wire enters it. In addition, when the wire is stripped correctly (the length of the stripped section is usually indicated on the terminal itself), the beginning of the insulation enters the terminal block housing. That is, additional operations to isolate the connection are not required - another obvious convenience.

Such terminals are often called disposable. Indeed, after inserting the wire all the way, the spring no longer allows it to come out back. With a great effort to pull it out, of course, it is possible, but the spring may be deformed. So it's best not to reuse them.

Naturally, such terminals are designed for a single-core wire. If, for one reason or another, the extension is stranded, then its stripped end must be tinned, or a terminal lug is pressed onto it.

Perfect for our task and special series terminals, the sockets of which are filled with special contact paste "Alu-plus". This composition, without worsening electrical contact prevents electrolytic corrosion. That is, durable reliable contact is provided in any combination of copper and aluminum wires.

Such terminals are usually eloquently marked on the package "Al Cu". We can recommend the following series of such products (designed for two or three plug-in wires, which is enough to repair the outlet): 2273-242, 2273-243, 773-302, 273-503; 224-122.

• The second type of terminals is more versatile. The main difference is that the spring pressure is provided by a special lever. That is, if necessary, the switching unit can be disassembled, and then, using the same terminal, again ensure reliable contact.

Before connecting the wires, the locking levers rise up, perpendicular to the body. Then the stripped wires are inserted one by one into the terminal sockets, the levers are lowered - and the connection is ready.

The use of similar terminals (disposable or universal) is seen optimal solution if it is necessary to build up the wire after removing the broken or burnt section. If you continue to operate the outlet in normal mode, without overloading, you can not worry about the quality of such a connection.

In principle, the repair work is over. A break (kink) in the conductor was found, the wires for connecting the outlet were extended and prepared for installation. If the socket mechanism itself does not have any damage, then you can tighten the stripped ends of the wires in the socket terminals and install it in place.

And only after the complete assembly of the socket housing on the wall, with the cover closed and fixed, you can turn on the power lines on circuit breaker and check the functionality of the outlet. If everything is done carefully and correctly, the problem will disappear.

But what to do if the wire broke off in such a way that there is a very short end, to which it is impossible to “hook” with any of the listed methods? Miracles do not happen - we can say that the owner was unlucky. In the future, this is the opening of hidden wiring, its extension or replacement of the entire section from the junction box, followed by the installation of a socket box and finishing the damaged area of ​​the wall. Nowhere to go...

Further consideration of other problems with the outlet will go a little faster. Some key questions have already been dealt with - they will simply be repeated, that is, it will be mentioned which operation should be performed.

From the socket there was a smell of burnt insulation

Such a symptom should immediately prompt the owner to take action. Perhaps nothing serious has happened yet, and all problems are fixed on early stage.

First of all, the outlet is opened.

Immediately you need to carefully examine the wires suitable for it. Quite often it happens that the reason lies precisely in them. Specifically, when laying the old wiring, wires of insufficient cross section were used, which, under increased load, begin to warm up themselves and emit a characteristic smell.

Sometimes I had to deal with cases when an aluminum wire with a cross section of only 1 mm² came up to the outlet. What kind of load are we talking about here? That is, the socket itself, with its terminals and contact groups, easily transfers the passing current, and does not have any traces of damage. But on the wires - a noticeable darkening or even charring of the insulation. But you can be sure that sooner or later this will lead to melting of the outlet itself.

What to do?

By and large, it is necessary to change the wiring to a normal copper cable, designed for an adequate load. That is, this large-scale, laborious, but necessary stage must be included in the plans for future repairs.

What cable is required for high-quality wiring in the apartment?

This is an extremely important issue, and it is extremely dangerous to tackle it from the standpoint of “doing minimal cost". We are talking directly about the level of safety of living in a house or apartment. Recommendations are given in a special publication of our portal.

It is clear that this is a matter of the future, and the socket must be brought into a safe working state, as they say, here and now.

First of all, the burnt sections of the wires should be cut to a “healthy” place. Further, they are cleaned, if necessary (and this happens most often), they are lengthened.

After that, the stripped wires are tightly tightened in the terminals, and the socket, in principle, can be installed in place.

But! So that the situation does not repeat itself before the radical replacement of the wiring, it will be necessary to take measures, so to speak, of an administrative plan. That is, remember it yourself, and instruct all your household members about the inadmissibility of including an excessive load in one outlet. Up to the point that, having previously inspected all the other sockets, paint and label with tags which one can be intended for. Well, do not delay with a major replacement of the wiring ...

Crackling, sparking, heating, socket melting

Here the situation may be the opposite - there are no problems with the cable part, but on the outlet itself there are clear signs of darkening, burning, melting of plastic or even metal contacts.

Although - this is not a dogma. The reason may again lie in the broken wire. Electrical contact seems to be provided by touching the ends of the broken conductors. But such a section, even with a slight load, begins to heat up strongly, spark, and a fire may occur. So it is better to audit the wires in any case. How this defect is detected and “treated” has already been discussed above.

If everything is in order with the wires, the reason is in the outlet itself. Usually it is quite easily localized by visible signs - burnt insulation and contacts, melted "marks" of an electric arc on conductive parts.

So, what are the main causes of this extremely dangerous malfunction?

• Loose contact at the socket terminals. This leads to an increase electrical resistance in this section of the circuit, which leads to its heating. In addition, if the contact is so weak that a gap is formed, even if it is very small, conditions are created for the electric arc to jump. This is just the same spark and audible crack. And the temperature of this arc is already calculated in thousands of degrees, with all the ensuing consequences.

If problems are identified at an early stage, that is, there is no insulation melting on the copper wire yet, then you can simply tighten the contacts with a screwdriver. A check must be carried out - the reliability of the connection is controlled by pulling force.

Why was it said specifically about the copper conductor? Yes, because ideally it should be suitable for the socket terminals, and not aluminum. And there are two important reasons for this:

• The terminals often have brass fittings. And about the undesirability of physical contact between copper (the main component of brass) and aluminum has already been mentioned above.
• Aluminum itself is extremely ductile, almost no elasticity. That is, under the constant squeezing effect of the terminals, it gradually “floats”. Contact is deteriorating - and what's next, we already know. Such joints require regular tightening. But this is also a "double-edged sword." The terminal will sooner or later change, bite the aluminum conductor, and it will be even worse.

So, if it is an aluminum wire that fits the outlet, it is advisable to immediately make the transition to copper in the socket. How this is done is described above. And already the copper wire will be connected to the socket terminals.

If the insulation is still melted on the wires, then these affected areas are cut off. That is, a clean conductor, without signs of burning, must be connected to the terminal. If necessary, lengthening is performed (see above).

If there are traces of soot on the terminals themselves, they must be cleaned. This soot very seriously reduces conductivity, increases resistance, and it is necessary to get rid of it. This can be done with fine-grained sandpaper (P200 and above). It will not leave deep furrows, and will clean off dirt well. Immediately before installing the wires, it will also be useful to treat the terminal parts with alcohol - it will remove the remaining dirt and a possible fatty layer.

After carrying out these preparatory measures, the ends of the wires are clamped in the terminals. And after checking the quality of the connection, the socket is installed in place.

All of the above is possible if the area of ​​the detected defect has retained its integrity and has not been deformed. In the same case, when the plastic "floated" under the influence of high temperatures, you will have to change the outlet. Moreover, if the melting touched not only the mechanism, but also the outer cover, repairs will no longer help here, since the guaranteed safety of operation of the outlet can no longer be achieved.

• The second common cause is poor contact between the pins of the plug and the spring contact groups of the socket. In most modern sockets, these groups are paired brass plates with a given configuration. Due to the springy properties of the metal, the pins of the plug are crimped on both sides.

The spring qualities of the plates gradually decrease on their own - simply due to the frequent use of the outlet. Well, if overheating was once allowed, then the metal is also released, that is, it loses its elasticity. And over time, contact between the pins of the plug and these groups becomes weak, which is often accompanied by sparking and heating.

As a temporary measure, you can try to tighten these contacts with a screwdriver, try to give them their original shape. True, it must be said right away - the durability of such repairs is no longer guaranteed. If the plates have already experienced such a deformation once (especially with overheating), then after the “recovery” they, with a high degree of probability, will soon become unreliable again. That is, when carrying out such repairs, one should keep in mind the upcoming prospect of replacing the outlet.

By the way, sockets with spring contacts look much more advantageous in this regard. They provide a constant tight clamping of the pins of the plug to the current-carrying surface, and last much longer. Another thing is that finding such outlets for sale is not an easy task.

Another problem with this area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe socket is that there are often traces of exposure to an electric arc on the brass contacts. And this is both carbon deposits and swollen tubercles of molten metal, which interfere with the tight fit of the plug pins to the contacts.

Such a defect is eliminated by stripping, but it is better not to bring it to this. BUT common cause the formation of an arc in this place is the connection to the sockets of the plug of the device, which is in the on position. At the moment of touch (especially when connecting a device that creates a considerable starting load), an arc jumps that can leave these marks. So the problem is solved again more by the “administrative” method - learn for yourself and teach your loved ones to connect devices to sockets only when they are turned off. And it is also necessary to pull out the plug only after turning off the load.

• Finally, the third reason may lie in the design of the outlet itself. This is either an obvious marriage - there are broken or seriously damaged conductive parts. Or - low-quality cheap stuff, in which all the problems are inherent. I had to meet with sockets in which the connections of current-carrying parts were on barely deployed rivets, and dangled even before installation. That is, sparking and a fire hazard situation are practically guaranteed.

Repair is useless here - only replacement. And when choosing a new outlet, you should give preference to proven, reputable brands. Buying "what is cheaper" is again soon returning to old problems, if not worse.

Unstable position of the outlet on the wall

M The mechanism of the socket can stagger in the socket, and when the plug is pulled out, it can come out of it. And sometimes the socket itself falls out of the wall. As already mentioned, many people clearly do not give a damn about such a “trifle”. And absolutely in vain.

Not only is it inconvenient, ugly and, in the end, very dangerous, since current-carrying parts can open. It is precisely because of this instability that loosening of contacts in the terminals, breaks or breaks of wires often occur. Well, what happens next - has already been said above.

So, such a defect cannot be left without attention. What's more, it's very easy to remove. The tables below show several options for solving the problem.

Example one

The socket was installed in an old "Soviet" metal socket, typical for old-built houses. It is kept in it only due to diverging ears, which is clearly not enough for its stability. Moreover, it will not be securely held, which the owner plans to deliver.

Although the installation of a new socket is shown, the method is fully applicable to restore the stability of a previously installed in the same metal socket.

So how is this problem fixed?

Illustration
	This outlet, which has become obsolete, will have to be replaced with a new one. The old socket boxes did not imply fastening the socket support with self-tapping screws. This means that in order for the new one to hold securely, the socket box will also have to be updated.
	Always, without exception, work begins with checking the presence of a phase. Opening the outlet - only when the power line is turned off.
	The screw is unscrewed and the cover of the old outlet is removed. Very often, these "veterans" are kept on the wall only by several layers of paint or wallpaper.
	The screws holding the spacer ears in the spread position are unscrewed.
	The socket mechanism is removed, then the terminals are untwisted, from which the wires are pulled out. The removed socket is retracted to the side.
	The socket has been removed. The aluminum wires are clearly visible. If necessary, the cavity of the socket box is cleaned of debris, and the surface of the wall around it is cleaned of the interfering remnants of the old finish.
	It is a great success that the modern plastic one with an outer diameter of 68 mm fits perfectly into the old metal socket. Admittedly, it needs some work.
	So, it is necessary to cut off all the elements protruding on the body. For example, mounting protrusions on the sides. This can be done with a knife, metal shears, or even side cutters (nippers).
	Depending on the location of the wires suitable for the outlet, the desired hole is cut and broken out for inserting them into the box.
	The plastic socket is a bit big in depth. Therefore, you can measure the depth of the nest with a screwdriver, and then cut off the bottom.
	In this state, the new socket will be ready for installation in the old metal one.
	The plastic socket is inserted into the old one, so that the wires enter the hole cut for them in the wall.
	Little effort is...
	... and the socket perfectly fell into place.
	And you can finally fix it tightly with the help of ordinary self-tapping screws with a press head, 16 mm long. Three points of such attachment, approximately evenly distributed around the circumference, will be enough.
	Naturally, the self-tapping screw should be screwed in on the section of the entire wall of the plastic socket, that is, not through the intended windows for passing wires. When screwing in a self-tapping screw, it passes through the plastic wall, and then it is perfectly fixed in the metal wall of the old socket box. So, the first screw is screwed in ...
	... then, on the opposite side - the second ...
	... and completes the commit third from the bottom. In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe passage of wires, of course, self-tapping screws are not screwed in.
	As mentioned above, leaving aluminum conductors for direct connection to an outlet is not worth it, even if their length is sufficient. It is better to build them with copper wires. These Wago Alu-plus series 2273-242 terminals will be used. They will provide reliable contact between copper and aluminum conductors.
	Two pieces of single-core copper wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm² are being prepared. Length - so that they protrude from the socket after connection by about 80 ÷ 100 mm.
	The ends of the segments are stripped (the stripping length is usually indicated on the terminal. In this case, 11 mm). Then they are wound up to the stop in the terminals. You should start from here, so as not to once again disturb the aluminum wiring, which is much easier to damage.
	Blackened ends are cut off aluminum wiring. If there are none, then it is still necessary to cut off those sections that were previously clamped in the socket terminal - they are already weakened and unreliable.
	The edges of the wires are stripped to the same length as copper ones, and they are also alternately inserted all the way into the terminal sockets.
	It should turn out something like this.
	Then the aluminum conductors must be carefully bent so that the terminals are at the very bottom of the socket. Here they will remain - nothing will disturb them anymore.
	You can proceed to the installation of the outlet. The stripped ends of the copper wires are alternately inserted into the socket terminals ...
	... after which the terminals are tightened with a screwdriver.
	Further, the wires are carefully selected with an "accordion", approximately as shown in the illustration. The socket mechanism is inserted into the socket box, immediately aligning it vertically-horizontally by eye.
	Self-tapping screws are baited, which will fix the socket in the socket.
	If necessary, check the position of the outlet using building level, correct. Next, tighten the screws that will open the stubborn tabs-clamps. And, finally, the mechanism is finally fixed by tightening the fixing screws to the end.
	It remains to put on and fix the socket cover with screws.
	Well, then - you can turn on the machine and check the outlet for operability. And there is no doubt about the stability of its installation with this method of fastening.

Example two

It is similar in many ways to the first. And here the socket, which is very poorly held in the metal socket, is actually being put in order.

But only if the walls are a reinforced concrete monolith, the self-tapping screws may not be completely screwed in. So, another method of fixation is used.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	It is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of this socket - when pulling out the plug, it constantly tends to fall out of the socket. After disconnecting the power line and checking the absence of a phase, the socket is dismantled - in the usual manner. The inside of the old socket box is cleaned of accumulated dust and dirt. The walls can be wiped with alcohol to degrease.
	For repair, such a plastic socket will be used. This model, however, is designed for installation in a plasterboard wall, but it costs nothing to simply remove the presser feet with screws. It is quite possible to immediately purchase an ordinary socket box - this will not affect the technology of its installation in these conditions.
	A "refinement" of the socket box was made - the bottom part was simply cut off from it. A “fitting” and fitting is carried out - the new one should fit snugly into the old one, without interfering with the incoming wires.
	The next step is to apply "liquid nails" glue to the outer walls of the plastic socket.
	The new socket box, smeared with glue, is carefully inserted into the old one.
	It is immediately aligned vertically-horizontally. Landmarks - holes for self-tapping screws.
	When the plastic socket is completely immersed in the metal socket, excess glue will come out at the edges. Very good - it means that the glue has filled everything free space between them.
	The surplus that comes out is picked up with a cloth. And then the learned "design" is left alone for a day - the glue should fully grasp. True, for this time, for safety reasons, the bare ends of the wires should be insulated.
	After a day, you can put the outlet in place. The line is de-energized without fail. The ends of the wires are brought into the terminals and tightened into them. The socket mechanism is inserted into the socket.
	Self-tapping screws holding the socket on the socket are baited. It is worth noting that many electricians recommend immediately changing those self-tapping screws that come with the socket box to longer ones, 3.5 × 35 mm. So the final fixation of the outlet will become more reliable.
	The position of the outlet is aligned according to the level - this allows you to make arcuate cutouts under the screws. And then - the screws are tightened, which will open the locking lugs. The question is often asked: is it really necessary, because fastening will be provided with self-tapping screws? So, it is better to apply both fixation schemes - the stability of the installed outlet will only benefit from this.
	After that, the fixing screws are finally tightened.
	It remains to put on and fix the cover with a screw ...
	... and the socket is ready for use after switching on the power line. Even with very tight pulling of the plugs, the socket will not budge.

Example three

Builders or finishers "cheated", and a normal, in fact, socket box simply does not stay in its nest in the wall. That is, when you try to pull out the plug, it falls out along with the socket.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The socket box was initially poorly fixed in its nest on the wall. Because of this, the outlet constantly falls out. We eliminate this shortcoming. After disconnecting the power line and checking the absence of a phase, the socket cover is removed.
	Here it is - the socket mechanism, falling out along with the socket box with little or no serious effort.
	Loosen the two screws securing the spacer lugs. After that, two self-tapping screws holding the socket on the socket are unscrewed.
	The socket mechanism is pulled out, and then the terminals are loosened, and the wires are pulled out of them.
	After that, the socket box itself is removed from the nest. The ends of the wires, so that they do not get dirty with the solution during further operations, can be sealed with electrical tape.
	There may be remnants of the old solution in the nest. They should be carefully removed, but so as not to accidentally damage the wires and the integrity of their insulation.
	The socket box will be fixed on the alabaster. To ensure good adhesion, the nest is moistened with water using a spray bottle.
	Wires are threaded into the hole in the socket, and he himself is temporarily inserted into the socket.
	A solution is being prepared - the alabaster is diluted with water. It is necessary to act at a pace, as the composition seizes very quickly. The solution is applied to the back and side of the socket box, which is then inserted into the socket. An approximate vertical and horizontal alignment is immediately carried out - they are guided by the holes for the mounting screws.
	The end of the socket should be exactly with the plane of the wall. This is easy to achieve with this simple device- a piece of timber or a flat board.
	Having pressed the socket box with a board along the plane of the wall, all the gaps remaining along the circumference are filled with divorced alabaster. In the example shown, the wall is bare. But if it has a finish, then, of course, the area around the outlet must be covered, for example, with masking tape.
	Excess mortar is removed with a spatula. The surface around the socket is leveled. If the solvent gets inside the box, it is immediately cleaned out of there.
	Alabaster sets very quickly. So after a maximum of an hour, you can return the outlet to its place.
	After such a repair, the socket box will never be pulled out of the wall.

* * * * * * *

So, the main problems of sockets and how to fix them were considered. If you have to deal with such a thing for the first time, you should not shake in advance with fear. There is nothing supernatural in repairing an outlet. But the main thing is that all actions, except for the voltage check that precedes the repair, should be carried out only with a de-energized line. About this repeatedly, and already, probably, intrusively mentioned above in the text. It's okay - read it again, and in the course of work - once again make sure that there is no phase before proceeding with repair operations.

Complement the information content of the video article on the same topic:

Malfunctions that occur during the operation of electrical installation products in a house or apartment are not uncommon. Frequent mechanical forces that occur when turning on and pulling out plugs of electrical appliances lead to weakening of electrical contacts, loosening of the socket housing in the wall, which in turn can cause fracture and burning of wires, overheating of contacts and burning of the plastic housing. In this article, we will tell the readers of the site how to fix the outlet if it fell off the wall, sparks or does not work at all.

We prepare the tool

In order to repair the outlet with your own hands, you may need the following tools:

• screwdriver with voltage indicator;
• , at home, a sharp knife is suitable;
• insulating tape;
• pliers.

It should immediately be noted that it is strictly forbidden to repair a live outlet (without de-energizing an apartment or house). Before starting work, be sure to turn off the machine in the shield that protects the socket group!

Crackling is heard in the socket

In this case, the device needs to be repaired. To do this, remove the outer cover and carefully examine the insides. Cracking indicates a periodic violation of electrical contact and spark breakdown of the gap that occurs in this place. Contact can be broken in several places:

Often a situation arises when a broken or burnt-out wire after a short circuit turns out to be too short. In this case, when repairing, you can. The best way to do it is as follows. Cut the second wire to the same length and strip. Take two pieces of copper stranded conductor several centimeters long and solder them to the wiring, after stripping the ends. Put pieces of a heat-shrinkable tube of a suitable diameter on the repair sites and gently warm it with a lighter.

This is one of better ways repair, but can also be repaired with an insulating tape, and the connection can be repaired with a twist. Then, strip the ends of the flexible wire and connect to the terminals. This repair method is good because the flexible conductor fits very comfortably in the socket, and its further breaks are excluded.

How to restore pressure contacts is described in the video:

How to fix loose terminals

You can find out more in detail, and what to do in this case, from our separate article!

Plug and housing get hot

This symptom indicates that a significant occurrence has occurred at the connection point. This happens, as a rule, for the following reason. At one time, when there was a weakening of contact, repairs were not made. Over time, in a place of poor connection, under the regular influence of a small electric arc (accompanied by crackling), carbon deposits grow, which, being a poor conductor, heats up strongly when an electric current passes through it.

The crackles disappear, but the contacts get very hot. When the process is strongly started and traces of melting or burning are visible on the outer plastic, it is most likely impossible to repair the socket if it has burned out.

Having opened the cover, you can make sure that the threads of the screws of the clamping terminals are burnt and the screws are “sticky”, and the copper contact plates have greatly changed color and, of course, have lost their elasticity. In this case, it is impossible to repair them yourself. If heating attracted attention earlier, the device can be repaired by cleaning the parts from a small deposit and stretching the contacts.

There is no voltage in the socket

First of all, you should make sure that it is the outlet that needs to be repaired. To do this, you need on suitable wires.

If it is absent, then the fault must be sought closer to the power source. In this case, it is necessary to check the ends of the wires coming out of the wall for a break, as described above, if necessary, repair. Outlet malfunctions can be easily determined visually - this is either a burned-out conductor, or a break or burnout of the contact plates. Depending on the nature of the damage, repair or replacement of electrical accessories is carried out.

The video below clearly shows how the voltage is checked by the indicator:

Checking the voltage at the sockets

The mount loosened and the case fell out

The fastening of modern electrical installation products is carried out by a spacer mechanism consisting of two plates, which, when tightening the bolts that fasten them, cut with sharp teeth into the edges of the hole in concrete wall pressing the socket against it. Weakening most often occurs due to the destruction of the edges of the hole. Repair in this situation can be done by installing a plastic socket in the hole, fixing it in the wall with a dowel-nail. The space between the boundary of the hole in the wall and the sides of the socket box can be filled with mortar during repairs. Learn more about

Pro Tips

How to fix a socket with your own hands

One of the most common breakdowns in the home electrical network is the failure of the outlet. In this article, we will take a closer look at how to easily and safely fix the outlet in the apartment with your own hands.

One of the most common breakdowns in the home electrical network is the failure of the outlet. This happens for several reasons: permissible load(switching on a powerful consumer), loosening of contacts or mechanical breakdowns.

As a result: the electrical wiring does not withstand and begins to heat up, and sometimes even melt. This can cause a short circuit, cause failure of the wiring or connected household appliance, electric shock to a person, and in advanced cases, even a fire.

1. First of all, you need to turn off the electricity: unscrew the plugs or turn off the machines on the shield.
2. Repair of the outlet is carried out in dielectric gloves, with a serviceable tool with insulated handles.
3. It is necessary to warn all residents that work is being done on the line so that no one accidentally turns on the electricity. You can also hang a label on the circuit breaker.

Advice! Before you repair the outlet, you must once again make sure there is no voltage on the conductors. To do this, use a probe, tester or multimeter.

Required Tool

In order to correctly and quickly repair the outlet, the following set of tools should be at hand:

Screwdrivers: Phillips and straight.

• Knife for cutting cables.
• Insulating tape.
• Pliers and cutters.
• Probe or multimeter.

You may also need a file or sandpaper.

Socket repair

Having dealt with all organizational issues, let's move on to the question of how to fix the outlet yourself. To do this, consider the sequence of work:

1. First of all, the faulty outlet must be disassembled. This is very easy to do: the bolt located on the front panel is unscrewed, after which decorative overlay removed.
2. The next step is to inspect the wires and contacts. The wires that have fallen out of the socket are inserted into place and clamped. If the ends of the wiring are melted or burnt, they need to be cut and cleaned again.
3. Burnt or oxidized contacts are disassembled and cleaned with sandpaper, after which they are assembled back.

If the socket has moved away from the wall, tighten the fixing screws. They are usually located on the sides of the block. You can tighten them by removing the decorative trim.

Sometimes, when you open the outlet, you find that the wires are burnt out and their length is not enough for a new connection. In this case, it is required to build up, that is, “finish” a new piece of cable of the required length. To do this, the cores are stripped on both sides and connected by twisting (the terminals often simply do not fit into the socket). Then the twists are carefully wrapped with insulating tape, protective caps can be put on.

Socket Replacement

• The decorative cover or overlay is removed.
• Loosen fixing screws. In some cases, they will need to be completely unscrewed.
• The box is removed from the box. It is important to be careful here so that the wires do not break.
• Then the contact terminals are untwisted and the old frame is removed.

Now let's figure out how to install the outlet correctly. To do this, the ends of the wiring are cleaned, inserted into the contact group of the new block, carefully clamped. If you have three wires coming out of the wall - one of them is grounding (has yellow-green stripes). It is connected to a separate side contact, which is labeled accordingly.