Tulips love sun or shade. Perennials for shady places. Container garden in the shade

tulip care for lush flowering Tulips, along with crocuses, hyacinths, hazel grouses, delight us first. Red, yellow, pink, variegated buds open in early spring on the household plots, cottages and gardens. But not all flower growers enjoy a lush and bright carpet. Sometimes there is simply no bloom. In the article we will consider in detail why tulips do not bloom. Plants are unpretentious, do not require special attention to themselves. But some rules still need to be followed. It is because of the violation of the cultivation technique in the spring that there is no flowering.

Causes Sometimes you can observe the following picture: blooming tulips interspersed with empty clearings. Not all plants bloomed. Some have produced flower stalks, but the flowers are small. Common causes of non-flowering: 1. Poorly selected planting material. In the same year, only a large bulb blooms. Small - to the next. Damage cannot be ruled out. The gardener did not notice them under the scales and buried the initially diseased tulip in the ground. 2. The plant lacks sunlight. Tulips love the sun. Hidden in the dense shade of trees, they do not want to bloom. 3. Spring flowers are planted in a place blown by cold and strong winds. This problem is especially relevant in Russia. The plant likes quiet areas protected from gusts. 4. Late or early landed in the ground. Weather anomalies disrupt flower-growing terms. In the conditions of a long warm autumn, the bulb produces a sprout, which freezes in winter. 5. The excavation deadlines were not met. What to do? Faded plants must be removed from the ground in a timely manner. Almost the entire summer season, the bulbs rest. If you tighten it with digging, then the tulip will begin a new development cycle. New roots will appear. It is too early to carry out this procedure - the bulb will not "gain" strength. 6. Shallow or deep landing. In autumn, the bulb produces a sprout that rises almost to the very surface of the earth. This is how the plant hibernates. An insufficiently deepened tulip appears too early - it freezes. Strongly deepen - the path to the sun will be long, there will be no strength left for flowering. 7. Bulbs are already damaged in the ground. In clay waterlogged soils, tulip flowers rot. Bulbs love mice - they often feast on the root nests of plants and bushes (the same peonies and crocuses suffer). 8. Incorrect cutting. When cutting flowers into a bouquet, leave at least two leaves. Otherwise, next year there will be no flowering. The garden is very beautiful when the tulips bloom. For the sake of this beauty, you need to try.

Planting and care Buying bulbs Today, breeders offer many different options - you can choose any variety you like. Planting material is classified by parsing. In order for the tulip flower to show all its beauty in the year of planting, we buy the first analysis. These are bulbs 10-14 cm in diameter. Why you should not buy a second, third analysis: it is better to immediately evaluate flowering; flowers appear in the second or third year. It is undesirable to buy onions "from the hands", especially unfamiliar ones. Unscrupulous sellers offer "old" tulips - we get a small bloom or even deprive ourselves of beauty. Landing Period: the last decade of September - the beginning of October. Focus on the climate of your region. In the middle lane - better in the second half of September. In the southern regions, in the Crimea - in the first half of October. Site selection: sunny location, protected from strong winds. The soil is loose and fertile. Soil preparation: 2 weeks before planting, dig to a depth of 30 centimeters. Apply fertilizer. Leave the soil to settle down a little. Depth: for 3 bulbs. Put three onions in a row on the spatula bayonet - you will know the depth. Preparation of planting material: inspect the bulbs for lesions. If it is hard to see, you can remove the brown scales. Soak for half an hour in a disinfectant solution (Maxim, Fitosporin, potassium permanganate). Landing: strictly bottom down slightly pressed to the ground. You do not need to screw it in hard, otherwise you can damage the rudiments of the roots. We fall asleep with earth and mark the place so that in the spring we don’t forget and don’t dig this area again. Some sources advise placing tulips at a distance of 20-30 cm. But if we want to get a lush carpet (as in Holland), we plant closer. It's OK. We focus specifically on our planting plan: what should be the flower bed. An interesting way to plant: put the bulbs at a certain distance from each other on the bottom of the slatted box. Lower to desired depth. It will be easier to dig later. This method does not protect against mice, as some gardeners believe. Rodents are repelled by the smell of hazel grouse - they can be planted along with tulips. Care Growing tulips is easy. They need watering and weeding. During the growing season, it is recommended to feed with complex fertilizers for flowering plants. Water as needed. When cutting flowers into bouquets, be sure to leave two leaves. The products of photosynthesis nourish the bulb, give strength for division. After each cut, the scissors are disinfected. There is a risk of infecting plants with variegation (do not confuse with the varietal feature of the flower). Or do not cut the stems, but break off. When the tulip blooms, unscrew the head. The plant will not waste energy on the formation of seeds. Rest period It is recommended to dig up tulips annually in order to: preserve the variety; notice infection or damage in time; provide a high temperature during the rest. If you leave the bulbs in the ground, they will "go" deeper. It is more and more difficult for such a plant to produce a peduncle. How long do tulips leave in the soil bloom? .. A year, two ... And that's it. How to dig and store: 1) We extract the plants when the leaves are just starting to turn yellow, and the stem is still dense. If you are late, then top part fall off and the bulb is hard to find. Far from always the bulb is located directly under the stalk - often the tulip "twirls". 2) It is better to use a pitchfork. A shovel can severely damage the planting material. Pitchforks cannot deal significant damage. 3) We shake off the ground from the dug out onions and lay them out in the shade to dry. For 15-20 days. 4) Remove all unnecessary (stems, leaves). Sorted by breakdowns. We shift into nets, boxes and store in a dry, warm place (at a temperature of 22-25 degrees). Houses in the attic, attic, in the closet, etc. Reproduction Tulips reproduce by bulbs. During the season, babies appear around the main bulb. There may be 2-3 of them. With their help, gardeners get young plants. Do not expect fast flowering from the "young growth". This will happen in a year or two. Transplanting flowering tulips to a new place is undesirable: there is a risk of damaging the roots and disrupting flowering.

Tulip is a perennial herbaceous bulbous plant of the Liliaceae family, which has earned an enviable popularity in the world of breeding and horticulture in its history and occupies a prominent place in the list of the most sought-after ornamental plants.

Story

The homeland of the tulip is Turkey. In the middle of the 16th century, despite all the export restrictions, the flower was transported to the capital of Austria, and then to Holland. English, French, German merchants are fond of growing tulips. In those distant times, they are grown in the gardens of only noble and wealthy people. In Russia, these flowers appear during the time of Peter I.

Symbolism

Many beautiful legends and symbolic meanings are associated with tulips. Gentle and touching, they symbolize love, joy, happiness. The time of flowering tulips is associated with the arrival of spring, holidays and good mood.

Description

The plant admires the variety of varieties. The color of the flowers is striking in its color. They can be of the same color (white, yellow, red, purple, etc.), or they can combine several different shades.

The shape of the flower is bell-shaped, goblet-shaped, cup-shaped, in the form of a lily.

Goblet Cupped Oval Parrot Lilyflowered
Double Fringed Flower Forms

According to the terms, the varieties are divided into two types:

  • Early flowering;
  • Late flowering.

The beginning of the point of growth is a bulb, from which a straight stem appears with several leaves and one flower. The fruit is a trihedral box with triangular, flat, brown seeds.

Tulips grow well in full sun. An important condition is protection from the wind. In such places, tulips look healthier, brighter, bloom earlier.

Tulips are grown in group plantings of one or more varieties. Tulips prefer light, loose, rich, moderately moist soils. An important condition for growing are "clean beds", freed from weeds.

Landing

The bulbs are planted in the fall, when the period of natural biological dormancy ends in tulips. Only healthy bulbs are used for planting. Choose a time before the soil freezes, otherwise the bulbs may not have time to take root.

The landing pattern can be very different. Planting density is maintained up to 15-20 cm, depth up to 10-15 cm. Prepared holes or grooves are carefully watered and the bulbs are laid out in them with the bottom down. They fall asleep with earth, a layer of 5-10 cm.

Tulips tolerate winter well. During snowy winters with low temperatures plantings are covered with insulating organic material - peat, humus, leaves.

Care

Growing tulips is easy. These are hardy plants that require little care. Start care in the spring. After the snow cover has melted, the plantings are carefully loosened, with dry soil, regular, moderate watering is carried out. Tulips love moisture.

During the growth period of the tulip, three top dressings are carried out using solutions of organic and mineral fertilizers:

  • The first is carried out after the emergence of shoots;
  • The second - during budding;
  • The third - after flowering.

Regularly carry out weeding and loosening. Blooming tulips are not cut off, but broken off, leaving as many leaves as possible. After flowering, watering is reduced, wilted flowers are removed so that the plant does not waste energy on seed ripening. After yellowing and wilting of the leaves, the bulbs are dug up. So that the bulbs do not shrink, the digging procedure is repeated every season.
Before storage, the bulbs are disinfected in a four percent solution of karbofos to prevent diseases and protect against pests. Then dry in the shade, in the open air, for a week.

Before storage, the bulbs are sorted, selecting large and medium sizes. Children are separated at the same time. Storage areas should have low ambient light and good ventilation.

The storage temperature should be around 17-20 degrees C. Under such conditions, the bulbs are stored until planting in open ground.

reproduction

You can propagate tulips:

  • seeds;
  • With the help of bulbs.

Seed propagation is used more often by breeders. Reproduction with bulbs is faster and more efficient. For these purposes, bulbs with a diameter of at least 12 cm are selected. It is believed that these are the ones that inherit the main varietal characteristics. Smaller bulbs need to be grown at home before planting in open ground.

Diseases and pests

Tulips can be affected by viral diseases. One of these is variegation, which is manifested by the presence of spots, strokes, stripes on leaves and flower petals. It is very difficult to deal with such diseases. It is important to observe disinfection measures, and if the plant is damaged, it is better to destroy it.

May meet fungal diseases. These include various rots:

  • Root;
  • Gray;
  • White;
  • soft;
  • wet;
  • Tobacco necrosis virus, known as "August disease".

Plants affected by these diseases are also best removed, and the planting site and neighboring plants are disinfected with antifungal drugs. Ash treatment can be applied.

To protect against pests (bears, scoops, slugs), traps are placed and hung. Against rodents, the bulbs are sprayed with iron minium and mousetraps are placed.

    Tulip is a perennial bulbous plant from the lily family, which came to us from Central Asia. To date, there are 110 types of tulips of various colors: red, yellow, white, purple, purple and even black tulips, and combinations of two, three or more colors are also common. The most fashionable tulip is green-colored, the original contrast of which is created by nature with the help of a green middle and edges of colored petals with green veins.

    Tulips were brought to Russia in the 17th century from Holland. The cost of the bulbs was fabulous, so only wealthy people could afford to grow these flowers. There is a legend that tulip flowers are especially yellow color bring happiness and good mood, and it is customary to give a girl unopened buds or those that have just begun to open.

    If you love tulips, always look forward to the arrival of spring and crave to see all year round these wonderful flowers on your windowsill, then our article is for you. Today we will talk about growing tulips indoors.

    Although it is considered that this flower is rather unpretentious in cultivation, there are several ways of planting in apartment breeding, as well as certain requirements for care during the growing season. By following them, the result will certainly please you.

    Fundamental rules

    1.Golden rule: buy bulbs from reliable suppliers, selected and healthy planting material will make it easier and faster for you to get flowering tulips. Always select the largest available.

    2. The bulb must be cleaned of the hard shell. This will allow you to detect possible damage at the initial stage, and “naked” and healthy bulb it will be easier to go up.

    3. All planting material must be kept for about 30 minutes in a warm broth of celandine. Instead of celandine, you can make a weak solution of potassium permanganate - per liter warm water 3-4 crystals will be enough.

    4. If planting is planned in the ground substrate, do not forget about the mandatory sterilization procedure to get rid of pests and larvae in the soil.

    5. Choose the undersized varieties best suited for forcing at home: Hibernia Kiss Nellys, Apricot beauty, Apeldorn Elite, Christmas Marvel or Gander.

    Growing tulips in a vase

    What will be required:

    Large bulbs;

    Transparent tall vases;

    Filler: glass beads, sea stones, sterilized gravel, plastic beads or gel beads that replace the substrate.

    Growing technology:

    Purchased and sorted bulbs wrap in dark paper and put on a shelf in the refrigerator door for 12-15 weeks;

    Prepare impromptu pots: put pebbles, beads and balls in a vase, fill one quarter with water;

    Plant the aged bulbs with the sprouts up and fix them with "soil" - the bulbs should not touch the water;

    Place the vases in a cool place without direct sunlight for 4-5 weeks until green shoots appear;

    Expose your tulips on the windowsill from the sunny side;

    Just a few weeks of waiting and your apartment will turn into a flower garden.

    The duration of flowering will be about two weeks, so take care of preparing the bulbs for the next planting in advance. Those. after the opening of the first flower, you can prepare the following vases so that the flowers on your windowsill bloom without interruption.

    Growing tulips in flower pots

    What will be required:

    Large bulbs that have been cold-treated for at least 12 weeks;

    Planting containers not smaller than 15 cm;

    Drainage to the bottom;

    Prepared soil.

    Growing technology:

    Fill the pots with earth to one third of the height;

    Lay the bulbs sprouts up at a distance of 1 cm from each other;

    Cover with earth to the top of the pot, water and add earth if necessary;

    Put the pots in the cellar for several weeks, check the moisture content of the earth;

    When the height of the seedlings is 5 cm, you can transfer the pots to the room, covering them with a paper cap to protect them from sunlight;

    Caps can be removed after a few days winter time you will need additional lighting for flowers;

    Enjoy flowering at any time of the year.

    You can extend the flowering period if you put the pots in a cool room at night. Do not forget about the mandatory watering. It is not recommended to use re-bulbs of home-grown tulips for this purpose, so feel free to send them to the dacha and next year they will delight you with their flowering in natural conditions. Try planting the bulbs in an old stump in the area - it will original idea for a flowerpot.

    Good luck with your experiments and spring mood all year round!

Many gardeners, trying to get early shoots of tulips, plant them not in spring, but in autumn. This is a reasonable decision, since from being in cold soil, substances are produced in the bulbs that in the spring contribute to the accelerated development of the plant.

When planting tulips in autumn, it is very important to choose right time and do all the work right. Incorrect and untimely planting can lead to the death of bulbs in winter or poor seedling quality in spring.

Choosing the best landing time

One of the features of planting tulips in the fall is that there are no specific calendar dates when this can be done. Approximately, gardeners give the period from September 15 to October 1, and in regions with a warm climate - from September 15 to October 15. But more often during the autumn planting, they are guided not so much by dates as by soil temperature.

When the soil temperature drops to 5 - 7 degrees, you can start planting the bulbs in the ground. You can determine this moment even more precisely by measuring the temperature at a depth of 9 - 11 cm - it should be approximately +10 degrees. Of course, the soil must be sufficiently moist.

It is important to understand that after planting the bulb in the soil, it must take root there, and for this it will take from three weeks to a month. If the bulb does not have time to take root in the ground before frost, then it can either die or germinate in the spring, but the tulip will be weak and inconspicuous. If the planting is too early, then the bulb can not only take root, but also give a sprout that will die during the first cold snap.

Choosing the best place for planting tulips

Tulips love the sun, and therefore for them the best place- well lit ridge. If you plant tulips in the shade, they will also grow, but the quality of the stems and buds will decrease.

Tulip bulbs love moderate humidity. Excessive moisture can kill the plant. Therefore, it is important to choose a place where the water will not stand for a long time and soak the roots.

Because of the "puddles" on the ridge, there may be trouble with the wintering of the bulbs. The fact is that due to excess moisture, the temperature under the ground will be lower, and when cold weather sets in, plants may die.

It is better to plant tulips in neutral or slightly alkaline fertilized soil. If the soil is acidic, then it should be limed. You can not plant tulips in places where previously there were diseased plants, as the infection will spread to new shoots.

Preparing for landing

Before planting tulips, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work:
  • The bulbs should be sorted out, the diseased ones should be put aside and the healthy ones should be divided into varieties. Diseased plants can become a source of infection for healthy ones, and as a result, the entire shoot will suffer.
  • A month before planting, the place that is allocated for a ridge for tulips must be dug up to a depth of 25 cm and divided so that the tulips can be planted by variety.
  • Fertilize the ridge. Fertilizers can be used either purchased or homemade, but not fresh manure, as it can cause fungus to develop on the bulbs.
After all the preparation work is completed, and the soil temperature has reached the required value, you can proceed to the planting itself.

How to properly land

The landing process is not difficult, you only need to follow certain rules:
  1. The depth of planting depends on the size of the tulip bulb and the severity of the soil in which it is planted. So, for light soil, these are three bulb diameters, and for heavy soil, two diameters.
  2. Large bulbs are planted in rows, while the distance between plantings in a row is about 10 cm, and the distance between the rows themselves is about 20 cm. Smaller bulbs can be planted "in Dutch": in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
  3. Because of different height different varieties tulips, tall stems of some varieties can block the light of less tall specimens, so planting should be done in tiers. The lowest varieties are planted on the sunny side: this way they get enough light and can fully develop.
  4. Tulips should be planted carefully so as not to disturb the root of the bulb. You should not press the bulb so that it enters the ground better: this way you can imperceptibly damage the root and spoil the future tulip.
  5. After planting, you need to level the ridge so that there are no holes left in places where there were holes. These holes can accumulate rainwater, soaking the bulbs and causing them to rot or freeze.
Despite the fact that tulips tolerate cold well, after a frost, the ridge can be covered with a layer of mulch. It will help the bulbs endure the winter cold and protect the soil from cracking. Peat is suitable as such a substance, which must be distributed over the ridge with a layer of 5-7 cm.

Mouse Landing Protection

When carrying out all the work on planting the bulbs, you also need to take care of their protection from small rodents. Mice can ruin an entire tulip crop in one winter, so it makes sense to take protective measures against them. Among the known methods of protecting ridges with plantings from rodents, one can distinguish "biological", "chemical" and "physical".

From "biological":

  • landing along the edges of the ridge of hazel grouse
  • landing along the edges of the ridge of daffodils
From "chemical":
  • processing bulbs before planting with Vishnevsky ointment.
  • applying a thin layer of kerosene from a spray bottle to the bulbs.
  • when planting, sprinkle red pepper on the bulbs
  • spraying a ridge with tulips with a tincture of valerian roots
From "physical":
  • planting plants in homemade or special containers (for example, the lower halves plastic bottles, special landing boxes)
  • placement of self-made protective caps over the landing site
The action of "biological" protective equipment based on mice's dislike of certain plants. In this case, bulbous plants are given that have poisonous bulbs that scare away animals. But this method of protection cannot be called particularly reliable, since mice can crawl around the poisonous roots of hazel grouse and daffodils and get to tulips.

The action of "chemical" remedies is based on the fact that the substances with which the bulbs are treated cause disgust in mice. So, rodents do not like red pepper and will not gnaw onions on which it is applied.

"Physical" means act as a normal barrier to the path of the animal. Here it is worth considering that not every material is reliable, since mice can gnaw through thin plywood and even wood. Better take plastic containers, and it is worth protecting the landing both from below and from above.

Summing up

So, when planting tulips in the fall, it is important to remember the following:
  • Planting time is selected based on soil temperature. 5 - 7 degrees is quite a suitable temperature for starting work.
  • Before planting, the ridge needs to be dug up by 30 cm and fertilized, and all diseased and small ones should be selected from the bulbs.
  • Planting is carried out at a depth equal to 2 diameters of the bulb in heavy soil and 3 diameters in light soil, the distance between plants is best made equal to 10 cm.
  • When disembarking, care must be taken to high grades low tulips were not covered, it is best to plant them in tiers.
  • After planting, the ridge needs to be leveled so that rainwater does not accumulate in the formed holes.
  • After frost, it’s a good idea to cover the ridge with a layer of peat in order to additionally protect plants from freezing when severe frosts in winter.
  • So that the works are not in vain, you must also take care of protecting the landings from mice. To do this, you can plant bulbs in containers made of plastic or other durable material, and also treat them with kerosene or Vishnevsky ointment before planting.