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The traverse is universal, self-made. How to remove the engine from the car in the garage with your own hands? Do-it-yourself traverse for hanging the engine

It is difficult to crawl here, it is not easy to reach there ... In some garages you can find winches, hoists - however, to work with them, as a rule, you must first remove the hood that interferes with business. But in order to replace the clutch on the Samara or the Ten, you will first have to disconnect the gearbox. How to do this without spending extra time and effort and without damaging anything? Let's talk about a car with an eight-valve engine. The latter, when the box is removed, remains on only one support instead of three, and it should be slightly (50 millimeters) lowered and fixed in this position. This is easy to do, as we will show. The remaining support is sufficiently elastic and does not interfere with the movement of the engine within the specified limits. And we will create another fulcrum, a temporary one ourselves.

The factory list of special tools and equipment used in car repairs includes the so-called cross member for hanging the engine - its number is 67.7820.9514. A serious drawback of proprietary technology is that the master needs an assistant when working. But what is stopping us from improving it?

In order for the engine, left on one left support, to take the correct position, we support it with a long stud with an M10 thread and a wing nut (red in the photo). The force is quite large, so the shoulders of a homemade lamb are 80 mm each. The lower end of this stud is curved with a hook - we hook it to the exhaust manifold in the area of ​​​​the fourth cylinder.

I draw your attention to the fact that this device is suitable for working with both "Samara" and eight-valve "tens". True, in the first case, the cross member at both ends has trapezoidal supports (yellow in the photo), and in the second case, additional adapters are screwed (in the figure and photo 3 they are U-shaped). The material of those and other supports is not necessarily metal: textolite, vinyl plastic, etc. will fit. In addition, a longer stud is needed for the "tens" (580 mm instead of 420 mm). On "Samara" this is inconvenient - it has a too long threaded part. After all, the hairpin has to be pushed into the slot of the crossbar, and then the lamb is wrapped for a long time, choosing the slack.

A small winch is attached to the crossbar. I do not indicate the connecting dimensions, methods of fastening - most likely, your winch will have some differences. One thing is important - that it works correctly. In my version, the winch cable is attached through a bracket to the gearbox stud next to the oil filler hole, since there is a nut there! In photo 2, you can see that the cable, having rounded the winch roller and stretched, will move the box vertically, which, in fact, is required.

With front-wheel drive or a subframe, I encountered a small problem. Such as hanging the engine. Someone puts a jack under the pallet, someone puts a crowbar on the wings, wrapping it with rags so as not to peel off the paint. I went to the auto tool store (taking a tape measure with me). I looked, felt, measured the main dimensions of the traverse.



Feet looked flimsy. And in order not to redo it after the factory, I decided to make this device myself.

I went to a hardware store, bought three and a half meters profile pipe 40x20mm and hardware. Everything else was at home.

NECESSARY MATERIALS;
1) Profile pipe - 20x40mm - 3.7 meters.
2) Profile pipe - 30x15mm - 0.5 meters.
3) Profile pipe - 20x20mm - 0.08 meters.
4) Four five-millimeter plates - 40x60mm.
5) Steel rod with a diameter of 10mm - 300mm.
6) Rubber (felt) sheet (the thicker the better, but in reasonable
limits) 120x120mm.

HARDWARE;
1) M10 L-30mm bolt - 2 pcs.
2) Nut M10 - 2 pcs.
3) M10 washer - 2 pcs.
4) Bolt M8 - 4 pcs.
5) Washer Grover F 8mm - 4 pcs.
6) Nut M8 - 4 pcs.
7) Bolt M12 L-70mm - 2 pcs.
8) Nut M12 - 2 pcs.
9) Washer enlarged with an inner diameter of 12mm - 2 pcs.
10) Hairpin M16 - 0.5 meters
11) Connecting nut M16 - 1 pc.
12) Washer enlarged with an inner diameter of 16mm - 1 pc.
13) Thrust bearing (marking ISO 53203+U203, GOST 18203)


or angular contact (marking ISO 7203 B, GOST 66203) - 1 pc.


TOOL;
1) Welding semiautomatic device MAG.
2) Angle grinder.
3) Drill.
4) Drills with a diameter of 8, 10, 12, 16 millimeters.
5) Locksmith square.
6) Roulette.
7) Caliper.
8) Yews.
9) Clamps.
10) Keyless pliers.
11) Kern.

MANUFACTURING

Started by drawing pictures








FRAME
Then I cleaned all the necessary metal to a shine (a semi-automatic does not like dirty iron!). From a profile pipe 20x40mm, I cut off with a grinder two parts of one and a half meters, two parts of 150 millimeters each (I had the missing half-meter piece of the same pipe). Marked, drilled, rounded the edges on the blanks of the racks. I cut two pieces of 40mm from a 20x20mm pipe.


Clamping a long pipe in a yew, I marked places on it for welding amplifiers (in increments of 500 mm). With the help of a square, I set out two segments (20x20mm) and fixed them with pliers.


Welded amplifiers.


Observing parallelism and aligning the beginning, I fixed the second pipe on the first one with the help of clamps. At the ends of the pipes, to equalize the gap, put the legs (highlighted in red). I welded the amplifiers to the second pipe.


I welded five-millimeter 40x60mm plates into the ends of the frame.


The frame is ready.
LEGS
The remaining two plates were punched in the center


And drilled




I screwed the connecting nuts onto the coupling bolts (M12), clamped them in a yew and cut off the excess with a grinder.






Having inserted the bolts into the holes of the plates, he fixed them with the same nuts and welded them to the plates.




Finished the seams. The short part of the leg (15x30mm) should be freely worn on the seam.




After fitting, I welded the plates to the hinge.


I marked the base of the legs and drilled through with an eight-millimeter drill,


And drilled on one side with a sixteen-millimeter drill.


Then I cut it up.
In my bins I found a rubber lining from some industrial equipment. Which I cut into four pieces and screwed to the legs.




We got these legs.


They must be articulated, since the fenders of the car's wings (gutter, mounting plate) do not run parallel to the ground, but with an inclination. The hook, on the other hand, must be located perpendicular to the surface so that it does not bend with the weight of the engine.

Elementary maintenance of the motor is possible without dismantling it. Replacement of candles, prevention of intake and exhaust manifolds, and even replacement of the timing belt (chain) is carried out directly in the engine compartment of the car. However, work with valves, crankshaft, piston group, etc. is carried out only on a removed motor. Not to mention the overhaul procedure.

From our article you will learn how to remove the engine from a car in a garage, how you can remove the engine with your own hands and how to do it correctly.

The material was prepared by the Auto-science.ru website - whose specialists will help you to rewind the mileage of your car with high quality and without errors.

How to pull the engine out of the car in the garage without resorting to the help of a car service?

In fact, this is not such a complicated procedure as it might seem at first glance. The main task is to choose tools for removing the motor.

Important! The engine weighs several hundred kilograms. Falling it can not only cause property damage, but also cause serious injury.

Before lifting the engine from engine compartment, the following procedures must be carried out:

  1. Drain all technical fluids: oil, power steering fluid, "brake".
  2. Free the cooling system from antifreeze.
  3. Drain the gearbox (except when you remove the engine without removing the box).
  4. Disconnect all hoses and pipes of the fuel, brake, lubrication and cooling systems.
  5. Remove if possible attachments: air conditioner compressor, generator, etc.
  6. Disconnect electrical cables, engine control unit, injector control cables, high-voltage wires of ignition coils.
  7. Remove the connectors from all motor sensors. It is recommended to make a list ("inspired" by the maintenance and repair instructions), this will help you not to miss the hidden connector.
  8. In most cases, the hood cover needs to be removed.

If you plan to pull out the engine without a gearbox, you must unscrew all the tightening bolts and make sure that after removing the gearbox it will not fall under the car. That is, you need to take care of the temporary fastening of the node.

How to remove the engine from the car?

At home, there is usually no professional lifting equipment, so you will have to rent it or make it yourself.

Do-it-yourself goose for removing the engine

This is a simple mechanism resembling a goose neck. It makes it possible to move the engine away from the engine compartment. It can have a swivel design that allows you to get the engine without moving the machine.

A heavy ICE is simply transferred to a workbench located next to the car. In fact, this is a universal crane in the garage. The rack rests on long "legs" located under the engine compartment to prevent tipping. For lifting, a cable and a winch are used.

The gander is used both in garage conditions and in small services.

Do-it-yourself engine lift

As a rule, this is a rolling crane, the lower part of which is wound under the front bumper. A smooth platform is required; on uneven ground, it is problematic to extract the engine using such a device. The lift works with the help of hydraulics, or a tensioning mechanism like a winch. The device is simple: a rack with rolling supports, and a movable boom, on which the motor is suspended. You can make a lift with your own hands from a channel, or a square prof. pipes.

With strong wheels on the supporting legs, you can quickly roll out the motorized lift and move it to the repair area.

Do-it-yourself winch for removing the engine

It is used if the car is being repaired in a solid stone garage. The most inexpensive device that can be used to remove the engine. To pull out, use a chain or cable.

There are two design options:

  • A transmission mechanism with a drum suspended from the ceiling.
  • The winch is fixed on the floor, a pulley is fixed under the ceiling.

Features of removing various motor designs

Longitudinal arrangement. As a rule, such internal combustion engines are removed without a gearbox, although exceptions are possible. The radiator needs to be removed.

Transverse arrangement. Motors are compact, easy to lift vertically. The gearbox remains on the engine.

Hybrid systems and electric vehicles. Internal combustion engines in such machines take up little space, or are absent altogether. Electric motors can be built into the wheel drive or integrated into the transmission. In view of small size their dismantling is not difficult.

All types of internal combustion engines are mounted on supports. AT frame structures the attachment points are on the frame, cars with a monocoque body usually have a subframe.