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To make the wooden surface after varnishing resemble glass, and to look into it as in a mirror, the varnish is polished. The usual varnish coating does not give the expected effect. All the villi of the tree, which were smoothed by sanding, rise from the varnish and violate appearance products. Before the viewer is a shiny, but uneven canvas.

There are several options for how to give a wooden surface a mirror shine with your own hands. The most famous of them:

  • wax coating;
  • varnishing;
  • actually the polishing process.

Let's consider all the processes in detail.

Preparatory work

Do-it-yourself polishing work begins only after covering the product with several layers of varnish, when it has already dried well.

The process requires abrasive materials and the polishing composition itself, which is called polish. After processing, depending on the polish, the following types of coatings are obtained:

  • when using nitro-varnishes or shellacs, a surface with a glossy sheen is obtained;
  • the coating acquires a semi-matt appearance after water-based, pentaphthalic or polyurethane varnishes;
  • Matte shine is given by oil or oil-lacquer formulations.

Waxing

The process is not difficult and can be done by hand at home. When processed with wax mastic, the natural texture of wood is more clearly manifested, visually the surface becomes soft and velvety. The method has proven itself on hard woods - such as ash, walnut, oak. Soft woods such as birch, alder and linden are pre-tinted for greater effect.

The process consists in carefully filling the distances between the villi of the wood with wax until a smooth surface is obtained, followed by the application of varnish.

Wax technology

  1. Wood, which was previously cleaned of pile by grinding, is covered with a thin layer of mastic. At the end of drying, the surface is wiped against the fibers with a soft cloth. After applying the first layer, all irregularities in the form of pores and cracks must be filled with wax. The surface becomes smooth.
  2. Withstand the product or floor covering for two hours in warmth.
  3. Do-it-yourself application of the second layer is done with a soft cloth. When applying mastic, gradually increase the pressure on the surface. As a result of processing, a smooth matte surface should be obtained.
  4. The final polished look is obtained by applying a thin layer of shellac-based furniture varnish.

This method has disadvantages. Waxing is not resistant to moisture - even a small drop leaves its mark.

Surface varnishing

The process is to fill all the micropores with varnish and prevent the formation of a new pile. The result is a film that is resistant to water and dust, a surface with a deeper and richer pattern. Processing is carried out with a cotton swab, which was previously wrapped in a clean cloth made of canvas that does not leave a lint on the surface to be treated.

The sequence of do-it-yourself work

  1. Generously apply varnish in two layers. During processing, all irregularities must be filled with varnish.
  2. Remove all varnish from the surface with sanding materials. The varnish remains only in cracks and pores.
  3. Apply the second layer. These two coats are considered a pre-made primer.
  4. After the secondary coating, dust is carefully removed.
  5. A third, very thin layer is applied and left in a closed box or room for a couple of days. During this period, not a speck of dust should fall on the product.
  6. Apply top coat once or twice.

All resulting smudges subsequently form spots. To avoid this, the surface is covered with a very thin layer of varnish, while trying not to destroy the film formed during the previous movement. Everything is done evenly, efficiently and quickly, without stopping. It is better to rehearse on a control copy. Works can be done with both shellac varnish and oil.

Lacquering with oil varnish

When working with your own hands, you must take into account that it dries for a long time. For a primer, a solution of 200 g of varnish per 1 liter of water is used.

The dried and polished surface is covered with a thick brush with liquid varnish. If the solution becomes thick, you can add turpentine. The brush is moved evenly, without sudden movements, the excess is removed. Do not allow the formation of bubbles when moving the brush.

Polishing

This technology gives the most beautiful texture, keeping the wood pattern well. It turns out a surface resembling a mirror. The main thing is to do it simply and with your own hands. Not all materials lend themselves well to such processing.

Wood with a large texture does not tolerate polishing.

Work order

  1. Prime the surface with varnish in three layers. After the first coat, sand and carefully remove dust. Then apply two coats of varnish on the dried surface.
  2. Polishing is performed with a swab, the polish is applied in a thin layer. Dry and grind with abrasive materials or a grinder. The process is very long, it is better to use the technique. After each application of polish, the surface is dried and sanded again. As a result, gloss begins to appear on the surface. To prevent sticking of the tampon during operation, add a couple of drops of oil.
  3. Polishing is done with polish with a small amount of oil added. Rub the surface with a swab until the desired shine is obtained. In order not to dissolve the previous layers, oil is added in an amount of only 1-2 drops per 10 cm². Repeat the work several times. Between the processing of the layers, the coating is wiped with a rag soaked in a solution of polish with water.

Failure to comply with the technology and sequence of work or an insufficient number of layers will affect the result. The first do-it-yourself work is best done on a test plate. The above recommendations will help give the varnish a mirror shine, create a smooth smooth surface.

Painting wood with varnish with your own hands is the final operation in wood processing, similar to the final touch when creating a picture. Glossy, smooth and radiant surface "sounds" very special.

The color becomes deeper, the pattern is more visible, the perfection of the product, its beauty is emphasized, and the safety for a long time is ensured. What paints and varnishes can be used on wood, when finishing furniture.

Wood is a material used for many purposes: from construction to the manufacture of furniture, souvenirs and dishes. However, structures and wood products can not lose their properties and attractiveness for a long time only if they are well protected from harmful factors.

Wood is affected by:

  • Dampness.
  • Ultraviolet.
  • Fire.
  • Various insect pests.

Tip: Logs, boards, wooden details for the assembly of furniture, laying the floor should be pre-treated with varnishes. This will not only help preserve the attractiveness of wood, but also emphasize its natural color or give the product a different shade.

After application, wood varnish on the surface should create a hard film that protects the tree for the entire period of operation. Before choosing paints and varnishes for wood (see Which paint is better to paint a tree: making a choice), you need to determine the desired composition - they are all designed for specific tasks.

At the same time, varnishes, depending on the proportion of oil and resin in them, can be:

  • oily, which are divided into:
  1. fatty;
  2. bold;
  3. skinny.

Such coatings have a relatively short shelf life, and after thickening they become unusable. Oil varnishes are used for applying them to wooden floors.

Modern varnishes have a synthetic base and additives that protect wood from ultraviolet radiation. Before application, they are diluted with water or a solvent.

  • Phenolic and alkyd. To achieve saturation of tone, these materials can be applied several times. In doing so, they:
  1. wear-resistant;
  2. strong enough;
  3. are not exposed to the weather.

Varnish is selected depending on the purpose of the treated surface:

  1. internal work should be carried out only with compounds that are safe for health;
  2. outdoor - with good resistance to environmental influences.
  • Acrylic. It is water soluble universal formulations. The presence of additives, allows you to protect surfaces from discoloration from sunlight, such a coating can:
  1. apply to logs and beams during the construction of facades and fences;
  2. apply to cover ceilings and walls made of wood, doors (see How to paint a door: we select an option). Their difference from other coatings is a lower consumption per unit area.
  • Urethane-alkyd or yacht. Used to treat a wide variety of wooden surfaces, which can be:
  1. furniture;
  2. floors;
  3. railing;
  4. all kinds of interior details.

Such a coating forms a quick-drying and high-strength layer on the surface.

In appearance, varnishes are:

  • Glossy.
  • Semi-gloss.
  • Matte.

Instructions for choosing a varnish suggests taking into account its features.

The material must be:

  • wear resistance. Varnish should be selected depending on the level of expected load and the purpose of the surface. With a small load, it is enough to use ordinary varnish, and for floor covering you will need a varnish with increased wear resistance.
  • Smell. Outdoor work can be carried out with varnishes with any odors, including harsh and heavy ones, which polyester, acrylic and polyurethane compounds have. It is advisable to carry out internal work with odorless varnishes made on a water basis.
  • fire safety. If the surface will be exposed to high temperatures with a high risk of fire, a heat-resistant varnish is selected.
  • The number of components in the composition. Lacquers are produced one- and two-component. After applying a one-component varnish, a protective film is formed, obtained by evaporating the solvent and drying its residues. Formation of a film from a two-component composition is different:
  1. solvent and hardener begin to enter into a chemical reaction;
  2. the protective layer is more reliable.

How to polish wooden surfaces after varnishing

Tip: To give a wooden lacquered surface the look of glass, polish the lacquer. Lacquer coating does not give the expected effect. All the villi of the tree smoothed by grinding will rise from the varnish and disrupt the appearance of the product.

There are several ways to give a mirror finish to a wooden surface with your own hands.

The most famous of them:

  • Lacquering. In this process, all micropores are filled with varnish, which will not allow a new pile to appear. The resulting film will become resistant to water and dust, and the surface will get a deeper and richer pattern. Processing is performed with a cotton swab, pre-wrapped in a clean canvas cloth that will not leave lint on the treated surface.

  • Wax coating. Is not difficult process which you can do yourself at home. After processing with wax mastic, the natural texture of wood will become more clearly manifested, visually the surface will become soft and velvety. This method is great for hardwoods:
  1. ash;
  2. walnut;
  3. oak.

To improve the effect on soft wood species: birch, alder, linden, wood must first be tinted.

When waxing, the spaces between the villi of the wood are carefully filled until the surface is sufficiently smooth, after which varnish is applied.

  • Polishing. This technology allows you to create the most beautiful texture, while maintaining the pattern of the tree. The resulting surface resembles a mirror.

Tip: Do not polish wood with a large texture.

How to wax wood

Waxing technology is as follows:

  • Wood, previously cleaned of lint by sanding, is covered with a small layer of mastic.
  • After drying, the surface is wiped with a soft cloth against wood fibers.

Tip: After applying one layer, you need to check the entire plane. Existing pores and cracks must be filled with wax. The surface must have a smooth appearance.

  • The floor covering or product is kept warm for two hours.
  • The second layer of mastic is applied with a soft rag, gradually increasing the pressure on the surface, it should be smooth and matte.
  • Paints, varnishes for wood based on shellac, applied in a thin layer, will give the polished surface a final look.

The disadvantage of this method is low resistance to moisture, even a drop of water leaves its mark.

How to varnish the surface

Works are carried out with shellac or oil varnish.

When applied with the first composition:

  • The varnish is applied in two thick layers. In this case, all the irregularities are well filled with the composition.
  • All lacquer coating is removed with sanding materials. The varnish remains only in cracks and pores.
  • The second layer is applied. This is considered a pre-priming of the surface.
  • Dust is carefully removed.
  • The third, thinnest layer of varnish is applied and left indoors for two days.

Tip: After applying this layer of varnish, it is impossible for dust to fall on it.

  • One or two coats of top coat are applied.

It is necessary to ensure that there are no smudges on the surface, which subsequently form stains. This can be avoided by applying a very thin layer of varnish, without destroying the film formed after the previous operation. Everything is done quickly, evenly, efficiently, without stopping.

Tip: When applying oil varnish, it must be taken into account that the composition dries for a long time.

For priming with oil varnish, a solution of:

  • Varnish -200 grams.
  • Water - one liter.

Liquid varnish is applied with a thick brush on the dried and carefully polished surface. When the solution thickens, turpentine is added. The brush should be moved evenly, without sudden movements, the excess coating is removed. Do not allow the formation of bubbles when moving the brush.

How to polish the surface

The order of the process is as follows:

  • The surface is primed in three layers of varnish. After applying the first layer, grinding is performed and dust is carefully removed. After that, two layers of varnish are applied to the dried surface.
  • A tampon is used for polishing, polish is applied in a thin layer. The product is dried and subjected to grinding with a grinder or abrasive materials. This process is quite long, it is better to use technology for this. Several layers of varnish are applied, each of them is dried and polished. As a result, the surface acquires a good gloss. To prevent sticking of the tampon, two drops of oil are added during the work.
  • The product is polished with polish, to which a small amount of oil is added, as in the photo.

The surface is rubbed with a swab until the desired shine is obtained. So that the previous layers do not dissolve, oil is added, at the rate of two drops per 10 cm². The process is repeated several times. Each layer of the coating is wiped with a rag, which is pre-impregnated with a solution of polish with water.

In order for the price of work to be minimal, and the quality of the applied coating to be good, it is necessary to follow the technology and sequence of operations, and apply the required number of layers. How to properly apply paints, varnishes on wood, and further care for the product shows the video in this article.

One of the most difficult types of finishing work on wood products is the process of polishing them. But this is a necessary action, as a result of which the coating becomes transparent and very beautiful. After polishing, you can enjoy the pronounced texture of the wood, as well as its shades.

Polishing helps the wood retain its natural look, and the surface has a mirror-like sheen. About twenty years ago, this method was very actively used when polishing wooden interiors cars, a variety of luxurious pieces of furniture made of wood. Thus, the beauty of wood was emphasized, without the use of varnishing.

The wood is polished at home, only with the help of a special composition called polish. This solution has its own advantage over conventional alcohol-based varnishes, and it lies in the fact that the polish contains about three times less resin. This allows you to make the decorative coating very thin and mirror-transparent.

Types of wood for polishing

The fact is that not every wood can be polished. Large-layer trees such as oak or pine are completely unsuitable for polishing. While mahogany, apple, pear and maple, hornbeam and boxwood, birch, are considered fine-grained and ideal for polishing.

Polishing and its compositions

Nowadays, on the shelves in building supermarkets there is a huge variety of polishing compounds. But at the same time, it will not be difficult to make such a composition yourself. The most common polish in use is shellac, which can be easily prepared at home.




For its preparation, you will need crushed shellac resin, about 60 grams. The next ingredient in the future mixture will be alcohol. At the same time, there is no particular difference between ethyl and wine alcohol. The main thing is not to forget that the alcohol strength should be at least 90, but not more than 95 degrees, in a volume of 500 milliliters.

The solution is prepared in a glass or ceramic container with a lid, into which you first need to pour the resin, and then carefully pour in the alcohol and close tightly. Be sure to periodically mix the composition until the shellac resin is completely dissolved in alcohol. When this happens over time, the resulting mixture must be passed through the filter, while pouring into another clean container.

Stages of polishing work

wood sanding

The polishing process itself is carried out in three rather complex stages.

Stage #1

At the first stage before polishing, it is necessary to prepare the surface:

  1. sand wood;
  2. remove all dust and lint from it;

Stage #2

The second stage will be the primer of the prepared wood. You need to carry it out using varnish and a swab made of woolen thread or, in the absence of such, you can take a cotton one and wrap it with linen cloth. Why choose linen? Because only this fabric does not leave small fibers. Cotton fabrics are absolutely not suitable for this process, as they leave villi, which are not acceptable during the polishing process. Remaining on the surface of the wood, they will noticeably spoil the appearance of the product.


Wood waxing

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Proper wood processing

  • You need to collect a small amount of varnish on a swab, and begin to carefully rub the surface of the wood in different directions. Such an action is done in order to saturate with a solution all the pores and cracks of a wooden product. After the entire surface has been treated, the varnish must be allowed to dry.
  • When the varnish dries, the wood must be treated with sanding paper. Be sure to use fine paper. The dust that appears from this action must be wiped with a clean cloth.

    It is necessary to rub the wood with polish using a cotton swab

  • At the next stage, after all the above actions, the wood must be covered with two successively applied layers of varnish. It is important to know that in order for the swab not to stick to the surface to be treated, it must be moistened with a few drops of ordinary vegetable oil.
  • After that, the wooden product must be dried well. Next, the last layer of varnish at this stage is applied, which must first be diluted, in a ratio of one to one, with polish. After that, the priming stage is considered completed. The product must be left for several days in the closet until the primer dries completely.
  • The next and second main stage of polishing will be polishing. Here is what you will need in in full polish solution. In this process, you will again need a wool or cotton swab wrapped in a piece of linen cloth, which is pre-wetted with a few drops of ordinary vegetable oil so that the swab does not stick to the surface. Bringing the tampon from the side, the movement must be done smoothly, in a circular motion.
  • The amount of polish on the swab should be medium. If there is too much of it, then drops of this composition will form on the wood, which in turn will contribute to the dissolution of the primer layer and leave stains on the treated surface. When pressing on the swab, the polish should quickly evaporate without leaving any excess.
  • The polishing takes place in three stages. After each step, the surface must be dried. After drying, do not forget to treat the surface of the wood with fine-grained sandpaper. After sanding, the surface of the wood must be cleaned of dust with a clean, dry cloth. After applying the third layer of polish solution to the product, a slight glossy shade appears on the surface of the wood.

    • Stage 3

    The last step in wood polishing at home is polishing.

  • This process is necessary in order to complete all your work with the product and get the desired effect of a mirror reflection on the wood.
  • When the last layer of polish applied during polishing is completely dry, it will be necessary to process the surface with sandpaper. At the same time, in order not to spoil the result already obtained, you need to use only very fine-grained paper.

  • Before starting work, sandpaper should be moistened with a few drops of vegetable oil. In the future, a cotton swab is used, on which a few drops of vegetable oil and a little polish solution are applied.
  • The next job is to carefully rub the wood surface. It must be continued until a shine appears on the product. It is also necessary to observe the proportion when wetting the tampon. Two drops of oil are applied to a swab and used on no more than ten square meters.
  • It must be remembered that an excessive amount of oil will dissolve all layers of polish and leave stains. To create durable layers, polishing should be carried out two to three times. After the last, the wood is treated with a soft cloth, which must be slightly moistened with water and a small amount polishes.

    • If you correctly follow the above described wood polishing technology, then the end result of the work done will have an excellent appearance.

    With a decrease in the layers of polishing or incomplete drying of the workpiece, the polishing turns out to be of poor quality and cloudy.


    If there is no experience in polishing, it is recommended to practice on something small and not very valuable before starting work with the main product. This must be done in order to practice a little, understand the subtleties and complexities of the entire polishing process and not spoil the main product. Attention, only TODAY!

    Wood polishing occurs as a result of smoothing out irregularities and obtaining a perfectly flat surface. The harder the wood, the better it polishes. Soft rocks are poorly polished, conifers not polished at all. No matter how carefully coniferous wood is processed with grinding materials, microscopic irregularities and villi always remain on its surface. The only exception is cypress wood.

    Wood is a hygroscopic material, it easily absorbs atmospheric moisture, all kinds of pollution, odors. Pure wood with open pores is damaged by fungi and carpenter beetles. All these circumstances make it necessary to cover the tree with all kinds of protective films - special oils, waxes, drying oils, varnishes.

    Oils are absorbed into the wood, reducing its hygroscopicity, but their effect is short-lived and the oil finish has to be repeated periodically, besides, the oils darken and become contaminated. Subsequent layers fix and deepen the dirt, resulting in antique furniture becoming darker every year.

    Waxes give beautiful finish but also not durable. Natural wax is soft and sticky, it easily adheres to wood, evens out microscopic irregularities, and quickly gives the effect of an expensive finish. Modern wax-based finishing materials are durable, pleasant to work with, smell good, give a beautiful surface, but are not durable. Wax finishes tend to attract dust, contaminate the surface and need to be constantly renewed.

    Lacquer remains the most durable and durable type of finish. (link) Varnish is applied to well-polished wood with a thin layer, then the villi are removed with sanding materials, the required number of layers of varnish is applied again, polished, and only after these operations the polishing of the object begins. Currently, it is the polishing of the lacquer film that is called wood polishing.

    Lacquered wood is polished with leveling liquids, polishing liquids or polishing pastes. When restoring furniture, as a rule, only grinding materials and leveling and polishing liquids are used, since polishing pastes contain abrasive powders: aluminum oxide, chromium oxide, chalk powder. As a result of wood polishing, these powders can penetrate into the smallest recesses of the carving surface, in the form of white inclusions, which are subsequently difficult to remove.

    The availability of grinders and other mechanical tools cannot discount the value of hand sanding. In this article, we will talk about the benefits of this approach, the basic principles of hand sanding, and how to quickly get perfectly smooth surfaces.

    What are the benefits of hand sanding?

    Sanding wood by hand, although it requires a lot of labor, in return provides a number of important advantages: less aggressive processing, better control over the process and high quality surface treatment in hard-to-reach places - in corners, on smooth bends and other reliefs of any complexity.

    Manual technique is indispensable for interlayer sanding of finishing coatings, as it provides the most delicate work and eliminates the risk of wiping the applied finish. When using the same abrasive, manual sanding guarantees a better surface than sanding with a grinder, grinder or drill.

    About sanding pads and making them yourself

    Sanding pads (sanding pads) are an indispensable assistant in the carpenter's arsenal. These simple devices ensure uniform contact of the sandpaper with the surface to be treated, increasing the speed and quality of the work performed. Using such pads, you will significantly improve the quality of grinding, extend the life of the abrasive, and avoid irreparable defects in the form of recesses and rounded ends.

    To acquire such a grinding tool, there is no need to spend extra money. It will not be difficult to make it with your own hands from dense foam or wooden scraps. Check out some easy sanding pad projects in our gallery.

    With this sanding block, which is easy to make from leftover wood scraps, you will not waste time changing sanding paper. Wedge retainers are a simple and functional alternative to traditional clamps. A simple corner block will avoid accidental rounding of edges when grinding the ends. For sanding smooth curves, use curved pads made from scrap wood or foam. For grinding recesses or wooden products with round section such as balusters, use an additional soft underlay. Do not rush to throw away the trimmings of the profile, they will still serve you as a block. Everything ingenious is simple!

    How to choose sandpaper for woodworking?

    There are quite a few characteristics by which sandpaper is classified. But the main and most significant parameter to be guided by when choosing a skin is the size of its abrasive grains - the so-called. graininess index. For specific tasks when working with a tree, choose certain type grit.

    TABLE: SELECTION OF ABRASIVE FOR WOOD WORK

    Practice shows that a set of five types of abrasive is enough for the master to perform the main tasks:

    • P150; P180; R240(treatment of wood before applying the finish);
    • P280; P400(interlayer and finishing grinding of finishing coatings).

    You can read all about the intricacies of choosing sandpaper at.

    Dry or wet sanding?

    For intermediate sanding of finishing coatings - stains, varnishes, polyurethane, etc. Traditionally, two techniques are used - dry or wet.

    Dry grinding increases the effectiveness of the abrasive and gives you the opportunity to better control the work process, which is especially important at the stages of intermediate grinding of delicate coatings. The disadvantage of this technique is the rapid clogging of the skin. This problem is partly compensated by sandpaper with an anti-clogging stearate coating.

    At wet grinding wooden products as a humidifier use mineral oil, white spirit or ordinary soapy water. The abrasive with this technology becomes clogged much more slowly and, accordingly, lasts longer. But the mess formed from foam and chips significantly complicates the grinding process. There is a need to constantly wipe the surface and carefully monitor the result of grinding.

    How to sand wood properly?

    Grinding technique . Wood is sanded with active movements along the grain or at a slight angle, but without excessive pressure on the block. The movements should be as light as possible, on the second or third pass with a fine-grained sandpaper with practically no pressure.