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How to make a knife sheath with your own hands. Sheath made of leather, wood for a knife with their own hands. We make a sheath for a hunting knife with our own hands How to make a leather sheath for knives

Making scabbards from leather. Walkthrough.

Hello. Recently I was once again allowed to sharpen a knife. Very good, by the way. The knife was successfully sharpened, but then the unfortunate fact became clear: the knife did not have a sheath. Not order. After a short meeting with the owner, a decision was made: to have a scabbard! No restrictions were imposed on me by the owner of the knife, and the implementation of the scabbard remained entirely at my discretion. The only thing we discussed was the material. Our knife is quite traditional and all sorts of fashionable kydex and cordura would not look quite appropriate on it. Therefore, it was decided to make the scabbard out of leather. The material was a valve from an officer's tablet. In total, the production took about five hours, but due to technology, it took five days from start to finish. Further step by step description manufacturing process and photo.

Day 1.
1. From paper and adhesive tape we make a layout pattern for future scabbards and suspension loops.

2. We transfer the pattern to the skin and cut it off, leaving a 7-10 mm tolerance in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future seam.

3. Soak the skin in warm water for about 20 minutes.
4. We cut out and bend the liner from any thin and non-fragile plastic. It is better to additionally scratch the fold line, for example with a nail. The line of the butt of the liner must be straight, regardless of the line of the butt of the blade. It is better to warm up the fold line. The fold should be voluminous. After bending with a clerical knife or file, we bring the liner to symmetry.

5. We protect the knife with cling film or a plastic bag and fix it with narrow stationery tape.

6. When the skin gets wet and becomes soft, wrap the knife around it and fix it with clothespins.

7. With the help of any rod and clothespins, we form a bend on the suspension loop. If you use metal clothespins and a rod, then the metal must be wrapped with tape. Otherwise, stains from rust and paint will remain on the skin.

8. We leave it all to dry for a day or longer. Better hanging.

Day 2
9. We glue the suspension loop with glue Moment or similar. At the same time, we take into account the width of a possible future belt on which the sheath will hang and give a tolerance of 15-20 mm.
10. After the glue dries with a clerical knife or scalpel, we cleanly form the edges of the loop. It is better to cut on a metal ruler.
11. We mark the holes for the threads on the loop and make them. I did it with a 1.8 mm drill.

12. Remove the clothespins from the scabbard and glue the loop to them.
13. After the glue dries, we drill holes through the sheath and sew the loop. For sewing, we tie together a thread with a needle and a thread loop with another needle, as shown in the photo.

14. We thread the thread into the first hole. In this case, we should have a loop with a needle on the outside, and a single thread on the inside of the sheath. We stretch the knot into the skin. When sewing, pliers may be needed. I also used a No. 14 intravenous catheter (needle diameter 1.5 mm) to mark and clear clogged holes.

15. We pass a needle with a loop forward into the next hole. We pass a single thread between the needle and the two threads of the loop. Then we pull the needle with the loop back. We make sure that the resulting interlacing of threads does not crawl out of the scabbard.

16. To secure the thread on the last stitch, we thread a single thread more than once, but wrap it around a double thread three or four times. We gently tighten the twist, making sure that it does not get tangled, and hide it inside the skin.

17. We put the sheath blank, insert and knife together. We measure everything carefully and glue the insert. Let dry under pressure. For example, on a shelf between books. So the press will be stronger and more uniform than on clothespins.

18. We glue the lower 2/3 of the scabbard, leaving a gap at the bottom for water to drain, and put on the clothespins again. We leave to dry.

Day 3
19. With the help of any heated metal wedge (for example, a powerful slotted screwdriver), slightly spread the mouth of the liner to facilitate the entry of the knife into the sheath.

20. Cut out one more detail from the skin trim. This will be an expansion wedge for the mouth of the scabbard. We thin the bottom of the wedge with a clerical knife or sandpaper.

21. We apply a wedge, and if it fits, then glue it into place.
22. With the same clerical knife on a metal ruler, we cut off the excess skin in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future seam, thereby processing the skin cut cleanly.

23. Using a caliper with sharp jaws, we mark along front side sheath line of the future seam. The indentation from the cut of the skin is 3-7 millimeters. The thicker the skin, the more you can indent.

24. Also, on the front side, mark the holes with an interval of 3-5 millimeters. Drilling.
25. We connect the thread, as shown in paragraph 13.
26. Halfway through the needle with a single thread into the second hole from the bottom. We pass a needle with a double thread into the first hole from the bottom. Then we pass the needle with a double thread through the second hole. Tighten the knot inside the second hole. Thus, our first stitch consists of a double thread, both outside and inside.

27. Next, we sew in the same way as we sewed the suspension loop in steps 15-16.

28. From the same plastic from which we made the liner, we cut out two parts that repeat the shape of the scabbard in the seam area. These will be the pads under the clothespins for uniform compression. Without them, the clothespins will leave ugly traces.

29. Soak the sheath again in warm water for about 10 minutes.
30. We insert a knife protected with cling film or a plastic bag into the soaked sheath. We clamp the seam with clothespins through plastic gaskets, and leave it to dry and final mold for a day or two (preferably in limbo). Using a wire or electric cable at this stage, you can additionally mold the mouth of the scabbard along the handle.

D day 5.
31. We impregnate the dried sheath several times with shoe wax. At the same time, we pay special attention to the edges of the skin and the seams. In order for the wax to be absorbed faster and deeper, it is better to heat the sheath with a building hair dryer or simply over gas. Instead of wax or along with it, you can use any shoe polish. With the help of a cream, the skin can be painted in the color you need. When the wax is absorbed, the scabbard is ready. Everything.

A hunter cannot do without a good knife. A large selection of models is presented in stores, and some prefer to make this item of equipment on their own. In any case, every knife must have a good sheath. They will securely fix the blade in the stowed position, protect it from dirt and moisture, and prevent injury. Scabbards can be made at home with your own hands. The first point that needs to be decided is what to make this piece of equipment from. Durable scabbards can be made from leather, plastic, plywood, or birch bark.

Making Scandinavian type scabbards from leather

To make a leather scabbard with your own hands, you need to take:

  • hard skin about 4 mm thick;
  • shoe knife;
  • knurling with a wheel for marking seams;
  • kapron thread;
  • awl;
  • a strong needle that can be used to sew leather;
  • pliers;
  • wood cutter with a semicircular notch.

First of all, you need to put a knife on a piece of skin and outline the contours of the sheath blank. At the same time, 3 cm must be retreated from the edge of the blade on the sides, and an allowance of 1 cm must be left below the tip. In the upper part, the workpiece must be cut under the handle.

You need to make a markup for two blanks, and then cut them out. For this, it is best to use a shoe knife. It must be held at an angle of 45 degrees, so that in the end the two blanks of the scabbard are connected evenly. If desired, the skin can be made thinner - for this it is enough to scrape off or cut off the inner layer.

Then the skin should be soaked for 15 minutes under warm running water. After that, it becomes soft and pliable, and it can be easily wrapped around the blade. After that, you need to mark the future seams. For this, it is best to use the knurling. Thanks to its use, the seams will turn out to be as even as possible, the thread pitch will be the same throughout. After that, you need to make holes in the sheath with an awl. They should come out through the end cut of the skin, located at an angle of 45 degrees.

In order for the scabbard to be strong and durable, they must be sewn with a thread first on one side, and then skip it again in the opposite direction. After that, the seam must be fixed with knots. Thus, the main part of the scabbard will be ready.

It remains only to add a suspension to the blade case. To do this, you need to make a hole in the sheath with a wood cutter with a semicircular notch. If not, you can use a sharply sharpened metal tube.

To make a pendant, you need to use a strip of leather. At one end it is necessary to make a cutout in the form of a pitchfork 3 cm long and a third of the strip wide, and then prepare the corresponding holes in the sheath, thread the suspension through them and form it. A rivet can be added to the tip of the scabbard.

When making sheaths for Scandinavian-style knives, such as Swedish, Finca or Puuko, a latch is not necessary. Such knives are placed almost completely in the case and hold well in them.

Finished leather scabbards can be dyed. Another option is to polish them with a semi-abrasive wax paste, which will give the piece a darker tint. Paint and wax applied to the skin will perfectly protect it from moisture. If you want to preserve the natural color of the leather, it can be coated with shoe wax.

Plastic scabbard

Another option is to make a knife sheath out of plastic. sewer pipe. In addition to this, you will need:

  • saw;
  • building hair dryer;
  • vise;
  • drill or screwdriver;
  • rivets;
  • riveter;
  • ready-made fasteners for fixing the scabbard on the belt or leather for its manufacture.

First you need to saw off a piece of pipe, which should be slightly longer than the blade. Then you need to make a longitudinal cut in it along the entire length. After that, the workpiece must be well heated and squeezed so that it becomes flat. To do this, use a building hair dryer at a temperature of 300 to 500 degrees.

Having warmed up the workpiece well, you need to insert a knife inside and squeeze it, giving it the desired shape. To do this, it is better to clamp the plastic in a vise. When the form is ready, you need to cut off all the excess, giving the workpiece the shape of a blade, leaving an allowance of about 2 cm in the area of ​​​​the blade.

Then you need to drill holes in the plastic and insert rivets into them. At the same time, it is necessary not to press too hard so that they do not push through the material. Studs from rivets are most conveniently sawn off with a drill.

Finished sheaths can be painted black with regular spray paint. It remains only with the help of a riveting to attach a latch for fastening on a belt - and the sheath for a hunting knife is ready.

Plywood scabbard

To make such a sheath for a hunting knife, you will need:

  • layered plywood 1.5 mm thick;
  • a piece of thick felt;
  • epoxy resin and hardener for it;
  • leather belt;
  • lavsan thread;
  • file;
  • sandpaper.

From plywood, you need to cut two blanks in the shape of a knife. They should be a little bigger size than the blade itself. It is also necessary to cut out two pieces of felt that match the shape and size of the plywood plates. They need to be glued to the plywood with epoxy.

Both blanks must be folded to each other with felt inside and a leather belt glued to them so that a loop is obtained. It will be used to attach the knife to your belt.

Then the blanks must be coated with epoxy resin from the outside and wrapped with lavsan threads. After the epoxy dries, you need to repeat the procedure. Thus, it is better to apply at least 4 layers of thread so that the sheath is strong and durable.

When the epoxy resin under the last layer of threads dries, the sheath needs to be given finished form using a file and sandpaper. You can smooth their corners or apply various grooves and embossments to their surface. To give the product a more presentable look, it will not be superfluous to perform other finishing. To do this, the scabbard can be painted or wrapped with braid.

How to make a scabbard out of birch bark?

You can also make a sheath for a knife with your own hands from birch bark. This is a material that has been tested for centuries. It is especially well suited for making a case with wooden handle, as it will be harmoniously combined with it. To make such a sheath, in addition to birch bark, you will need:

  • scissors or a knife for cutting material;
  • wide saucepan;
  • board 10 mm thick;
  • a small piece of skin about 2 mm thick;
  • food film;
  • insulating tape;
  • stationery clips.

The first step is to cut three identical blanks from birch bark. They should be shield-shaped with a pointed bottom edge. In the manufacture of the scabbard, the blanks will need to be folded in half and wrapped around the blade, laying them one on top of the other. Then you need to cut out two curved spacers from a pine plank, which will be located in front of the cutting edge of the knife.

Birch bark should be placed in boiling water and boiled for 2 hours, and then turn off the heat and leave to soak for a few more hours. After that, she will curl up into a tube. While the birch bark is being cooked, you need to attach a spacer made from a plank to the blade with electrical tape.

It is better to wrap the knife with cling film beforehand. There should be a small distance between the spacer and the knife. To leave it, you need to place a piece of thin skin in front of the cutting edge.

Then you need to get a piece of birch bark out of the water, carefully unfold it and wrap it around the knife, securing it in the area of ​​the cutting edge with clerical clips. After 10 minutes, when the material takes the form of a blade, you need to remove the clamps and put another piece of birch bark on top. Then the procedure must be repeated a third time. After that, leaving the clamps, the birch bark should be allowed to dry for an hour.

Then the future scabbard must be smeared with moisture-resistant PVA glue between the layers of birch bark and fastened again with clamps. A day later, the entire structure must be disassembled by separating the spacer from the plank from the blade. Next, you need to generously lubricate the PVA spacers, clamp with their help in a vice the part of the sheath located in the region of the cutting edge of the knife, and leave for two weeks.

After that, you need to drill holes in the sheath and sew them with a thick thread or a thin strap. You also need to make an oval hole for the latch for attaching to the belt. To make it, you can use a rope or a braid woven from leather strips.

With high-quality scabbards made from improvised materials, a hunting knife will last as long as possible. Which of the manufacturing options to choose is a matter of taste. Any sheath will be good if you approach their manufacture correctly.

Every self-respecting hunter keeps his knife in a sheath. And some even have several protective covers. Moreover, most people prefer to make a sheath for a knife with their own hands. After all, to perform this simple product is quite simple, and independent production will give you the opportunity to make it convenient and to your taste. Despite the fact that now you can choose any material for this, real hunters do not change traditions - they make scabbards from leather or wood.

Leather sheath: brief instructions

Do-it-yourself leather sheath for a knife begins to be made from a template.

  • Take a piece of paper, fold it in half and place a knife on it.
  • Circle it along the contour, leaving an allowance for a seam 8–10 cm wide on the side of the blade.
  • Cut out the drawn template in such a way as to duplicate only the outline of the blade, and leave the outline of the handle alone. The whole point is that in real life this circuit will play the role of a loop for fastening with a half ring. It is important to take into account that in the future the width of the “handle” coincides with the half ring that you prepare.
  • Now ready template put on a piece of skin. Please note that at the junction of the belt and the scabbard, it should be about 3 cm narrower than the fastening length, and “ears” should be left along the edges of the scabbard. They will be the place for the button after the pattern is folded in half. Moreover, their size should be such that 2 mm of skin is left around the button.
  • Provide two holes for inside corners. Place them in the place where the wide part of the pattern (under the scabbard) is combined with the narrow part (under the handle). This is done so that during operation the skin does not tear at the corners.

How to make a knife sheath with your own hands from leather? At first glance, everything is clear. But, nevertheless, in this case there are subtleties that will help to do it as best as possible.

Those who are familiar with the manufacture of scabbards firsthand recommend:

  • Complete the leather scabbard with an insert. For this suitable plastic. To fold it in half, it is better to heat the fold line. After it is folded, both halves are made symmetrical with a file, repeating the shape of a knife blade.
  • In order for the sheath to take the shape of a knife, the cut skin is moistened for 20 minutes in warm water. After it softens, it is wrapped around a knife. It must first be wrapped in cellophane. The skin is fixed with clothespins and left for a day.
  • During this time, you can make a suspension loop, and after the clothespins are removed from the sheath, glue it to the right place and then flash it.
  • In order for the sheath for the knife to be stitched with high quality with your own hands, holes are marked along the seam line every 3-5 mm and drilled. It is necessary to sew the sheath with two needles, one of which is with a single thread, and the other with a double thread.
  • After everything is stitched, the sheath should be soaked again in warm water for 10 minutes, insert a knife wrapped in cellophane into them and leave for a day.
  • When the scabbard is dry, it should be treated with shoe wax or shoe polish.

Wooden scabbard

Some hunters find wooden scabbards to be more comfortable than leather ones. They are especially popular in Siberia and the Urals. Their simple and reliable design makes it possible to quickly remove and insert the knife without unfastening the clasps. And you can do it with gloves. Such scabbards cannot be pierced in a hurry with an unsuccessful knife hit.

Due to the fact that the selection is made in the form of a funnel, which evenly narrows from the mouth to the tip of the blade, the handle is tightly fixed in the sheath, actually wedging there. To get the knife, you just need to grab the handle tightly and squeeze your fingers tightly. From such an effort, he literally jumps out of the scabbard. Yes, and you can make a wooden sheath for a knife with your own hands very beautifully.

Making scabbards using Ural-Siberian technology

The process of manufacturing wooden scabbards takes place in several stages:

  • pick up small boards (2 pcs.), The vertical size of which will correspond to the length of the knife, and the horizontal size is equal to two thicknesses of its handle;
  • carefully process the boards, achieving a tight fit to each other;
  • place a knife on each of them and circle its outline;
  • on the end part from the side of the handle, mark the sampling depth for it;
  • wood should be selected along the contour, the finished sample should take the form of a funnel, evenly tapering from the mouth of the scabbard to the tip of the blade;
  • provide a small gap between the sheath and the blade (3-4 mm).

If you were unable to perfectly fit the mouth to the handle, do not despair. From the inside, on the mouth, glue a strip of fabric, after soaking it with epoxy. Wrap the knife with polyethylene and press the fabric well against the mouth of the sheath.

The final stage of processing the scabbard

After the selection is made and the mouth is fitted to the handle, the manufacture of the sheath for the knife with your own hands enters the final stage:

  • chop off the outside of the scabbard, leaving a wall thickness of about 5 mm;
  • next to the mouth, leave a side with a section of 5x5 mm in order to further fix the suspension loops on it;
  • to increase the strength of the scabbard, wrap the place under the side with several layers of nylon thread, then impregnating it with epoxy;
  • in the lower part of the scabbard (near the tip), make several holes and pull the same thread through them to reinforce the product;
  • do as you wish below air vent(it may not be);
  • now glue the prepared parts of the scabbard;
  • after the glue dries, sand the surface in a way convenient for you and saturate with drying oil.

Additional elements and scabbard design

So, do-it-yourself knife sheaths are completely made and can be used for their intended purpose. In addition to them, a suspension or belt loop is sewn from leather. Some for greater strength fit such a wooden case with leather, but this, so to speak, is not for everybody.

The scabbard can be left as it is, or you can use different finishes - burning, wood carving or inlay. It all depends on your taste.

Now that you have become familiar with the manufacturing technology, how to make a sheath for a knife with your own hands is no longer a question for you, but a reason to get down to business.

It's time to make your own knife sheath with a birch bark handle.

For this, saddle leather of the collar part with a thickness of 3 mm to 5 mm was used. A smaller thickness was used for the strap with a button and for the waist belt loop.

The contour of the knife was outlined with a felt-tip pen on thick blanks on the wrong sides with an allowance for seam and processing. A liner between the plates was also cut exactly to the size of the blade. Thus, the thickness of the scabbard will be from three layers of leather. Before assembling the scabbard, primitive stamps for hot stamping were made on the front side and on the strap with a button.

To do this, a 1 mm wire is soldered to a suitable part according to the figure. Brass screw cap used.

For stamping an oak leaf, the wire was soldered onto a piece of tinplate and the thickness of the stamp was increased by a set of a sufficient number of plates. The thickness should be such that only the pattern is printed.

It was done hot and with simultaneous pressure. An electric iron was used at maximum heating and pressure for 3-5 minutes. At the same time, the place where the pattern was applied was slightly moistened with water to soften it.

The logo is a stylized Latin letter S.V.M, the son-in-law's initials. Since the knife has a guard, I had to mold the wrong side. Molding takes about an hour under pressure. The skin was also wetted with water. It turned out a neat bend that allows you to sheath it without difficulty.

Under the belt with a width of 50 mm, a loop is molded in the same way.

The assembly of the scabbard included the connection of both sides with an insert between them on the Moment Classic glue

After gluing, before sewing, all ends were processed. First, trimming, then cleaning the ends with a grinder with a circular tape in rough. After rough grinding (a very dirty process), the ends were impregnated with second glue to stiffen and finally brought to good quality finer skin.

With a caliper along the perimeter of the sheath, a risk was carried out and then deepened. The marking of the holes for the thread was made with a fork with sharpened teeth.

Marks were applied with light blows and then holes of 2 m were drilled.

A good knife is necessary for a tourist, a hunter, and a fisherman. It is very important that it is convenient to store it in the "field" conditions. Our article will tell you about making a leather scabbard with your own hands.

Scabbard materials

  • Accessories for sewing, a tool for fastening buttons
  • 1 large half ring (Pic 5) and 1 small one (Pic 14)
  • Strong thread (photo 27)
  • Paper
  • A strip of plastic 2 mm thick, the size of a knife blade (photo 13)
  • Glue that can be glued genuine leather, and which, after drying, remains elastic (photo 18).

Tools for making a knife sheath

  • Cutter (knife)
  • metal ruler
  • An awl with a hook at the end (photo 27)
  • A tool for piercing holes in the skin (can be replaced with improvised means) (photo 7)
  • Scissors
  • Sandpaper (medium)
  • Tool for clamping buttons-baubles (sold in stores with accessories, it is inexpensive) (photo 10)
  • Clothespins
  • Compass
  • A simple pencil or marker.

DIY leather scabbard making

We will make leather sheaths for such a classic knife.

The first step is to make a template. To do this, put the knife on a piece of paper, circle it with a pencil.

On the side of the blade, leave a seam allowance of 8-10 mm. It should turn out something like this.

Bend the sheet and cut out the template. In the part of the handle, it is needed only on one side. Here we consider the technology of manufacturing a scabbard for wearing on the right thigh.

Refine the template. What looks like a handle on it will actually be a loop for attaching a scabbard to a belt. We will additionally install a half ring on it so that the sheath can be hung on a hook, knot, etc., so adjust the width of the handle (mount) to the width of the half ring.

It should turn out like this:

Attach the template to the skin. Consider the length of the fastening, it should be 3 - 3.5 cm wider than the belt.

In the example, the length of the template in the attachment part will need to be increased by 3.5 cm. If you are not limited in terms of the length of the skin, then it is better to make the part “with a margin” and cut off the unnecessary later.

In addition, pay attention to the "ears" marked in the photo. They need to be made in such a way that a button-bauble fits there and there is still about 1-2 mm of skin around it.

Transfer the template to the skin from the inside. In the corners where the base of the scabbard goes into the attachment to the belt, use a special tool to thread round holes. This is necessary so that the skin does not tear in the corners during use. If there is no tool, you can use improvised means, for example, pick up a hollow tube of the required diameter and cut holes.

Cut out the pattern. A straight cut is best done with a cutter using a metal ruler. The finished pattern looks like this.

Fasten the half ring. Bend the fastening strip so that the belt fits in, 1.5-2 cm remain for fastening the ring and 1.5 cm for fastening to the base. Place the half ring inside the loop.

To fasten the half ring, use the buttons-baubles. Clamp them with a special tool.

Use a hole puncher to make holes under the ring and press it with buttons.

Fix the mount at the base. Buttons work for this too. If there is an extra piece of skin, cut it off.

To stiffen the sheath for the knife, insert a strip of plastic cut into the shape of the blade inside.





In our example, the scabbard will have another small half ring so that you can fasten the bottom of the scabbard to the thigh or wear it not on a belt. To make this element, we need a strip of leather 2-4 cm long and half-ring wide.

To attach the half-ring to the scabbard, we make a slot at the bottom of the sheath. To prevent the skin from tearing, cut holes along the width of the strip and connect them to the slot.

Use the button to connect the strip with the half ring.

Secure the structure in the sheath with the button.

Glue the plastic seal to the skin.

Glue a piece of leather to the area that remains between the rounded edge of the plastic and the rounded edge of the scabbard. Cut out the appropriate piece. Do not align it in width, leave more, later it can be cut off. Keep in mind that the strip of leather should not reach the upper base of the scabbard, to the “lugs”, since the baubles will not be able to fasten three layers of leather, only two.

Glue skin to skin.

Now bend the workpiece along a straight edge and glue it by applying glue along the curved edge of the base and glued leather seal.

Fasten the structure with clothespins and dry.

When the sheath is dry, insert a button into the “ears” and cut off excess pieces of skin.

Sew the curved edge of the scabbard. In order for the seam line to be even, draw a line with a compass at a distance of 5-7 mm from the edge of the sheath, resting the needle on it.

Mark holes for the stitch at a distance of 5 mm from each other.

Punch out holes with a hole puncher to thread the thread through.

Sew the edge of the scabbard with a crochet awl.

Prepare a retainer for the knife handle, for this you will need a strip of leather 2-2.5 cm wide and buttons.

Attach a strip of leather with buttons - baubles to the front part of the fastening to the belt, cut off the desired piece according to the thickness of the handle, fasten with buttons along the edges.

Treat the uneven cut of the skin with sandpaper.

The finished product looks something like this.