Locks homemade folding knives. Instructions for making a folding knife. Next, we proceed to the manufacture of side dies

In the simplest models, the blade does not lock in the open position: it will fold if you push it hard enough in the appropriate direction. This is how a classic pocket penknife works. In English literature, a knife equipped with a similar mechanism is called slip joint folder, or a folding knife with a sliding joint (or rather articulation).

I could not find the corresponding Polish term. Oh well, it doesn't matter what it's scientifically called; what matters is how it works. The spring, attached at one end to the upper edge of the handle, with its other end presses on the disc-shaped surface of the back of the blade. And this surface is designed in such a way that both opening and folding the knife causes the spring to bend or unbend; at the same time, it provides a certain resistance, which allows you to keep the knife either in the open or in the closed position (Fig. ). But if in the folded state the spring holds the blade quite reliably, then in the open position such a knife cannot be called one hundred percent safe. In practice, you have little to fear if you only use your knife for light, well-controlled cutting—for example, opening mail or sharpening pencils. Perhaps that is why such models are becoming a thing of the past, now they are produced in small numbers. Even typical multifunction penknives are now increasingly being equipped with mechanisms that allow at least one, the largest (main) blade, to be held open.

Manufacturing should begin directly with the blade. First of all, we mark the place for the axial hole. We drill it and, already guided by it, we make further marking of the blade. If you do the opposite and mark and cut the blade along the contour, and only then drill a hole, then during the drilling process, especially in hardened workpieces, the drill can lead to the side and all dimensions will “float away”.

Transferring the contours of the blade to the workpiece, we begin to make the blade. We grind with the help of a grinder and emery along the contour. For the convenience of holding the blade in the process of removing the descents, the blade itself is not cut off from the workpiece yet and the heel of the blade is not formed.

For the removal of descents, you can use various tools: grinders, emery, flat grinders, grinders. I do a rough turning of the slopes on emery and a fine one on a flat grinder.

Next, we proceed to the manufacture of side dies.

Next, we drill a hole in the dies for the pin of the blade stopper, install the axis and stopper pin, install the blade and the second die. We move the blade to the open position and mark on the die the position of the heel of the blade, more precisely the place where the lock liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and proceed to cut it.

Having prepared the ribs in this way, we proceed to their installation on the dies. The methods are different: soldering, riveting, spot welding, etc. The most accessible are soldering and riveting.

For soldering, you will need a soldering iron, soldering acid, solder and a heat source. As a soldering iron, it is best to use a massive piece of copper, which is heated in a burner flame. Soldering acid is hydrochloric acid, etched with zinc. POS-60, POS-90 are suitable as solder. Before soldering, it is necessary to clean and tin the soldering points. It is cleaned with sandpaper, a file. After stripping, we coat the soldering points with acid, take, on a well-heated soldering iron, a piece of solder and tin the surface. In the process of tinning, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps left and that the entire surface is covered with an even layer of solder. High-quality tinning and soldering are possible only with good heating of the parts.

After tinning, rinse the parts well in water with soda, removing acid residues. Next, we clamp the tinned parts in a vise and begin to warm up with a burner from different sides. To reduce heat loss, it is necessary to lay a thermally insulating material under the vise jaws; fragments of ceramic tiles are well suited. As it warms up, we tighten the vise until droplets of solder come out between the parts, after which the heating can be stopped.

The soldering of the right fitting has some peculiarities: first, we solder the axis of the knife into the die, and then solder the fitting, while instead of one of ceramic tiles use a piece of tube larger than the diameter axis.


So, all the components of the knife are ready, it remains to assemble the knife, once again make sure that the lock is working correctly. Adjust if necessary. For smoother operation of the mechanism, it should be lubricated with engine oil. After some time of operation, the parts of the mechanism should be rubbed in, the blade will rotate easily and smoothly, the liner plate will rise slightly.



Folding knife with your own hands. How to make a folding knife with your own hands. Folding knife do-it-yourself drawings. Friction folding knife. Author sdpskov. Hello everyone, I present to your attention photos of the phased production of a friction-type folding knife. It is difficult to call this a master class or a tutorial, much has been missed. Friction folding knives are common in countries where lockable knives are prohibited. Knives of this type are widely used by European knifemakers.

A true gourmet journey in the home country of Meissel: portraits and recipes of 25 Michelin chefs from Savoy, Haute-Savoie, Piedmont and the country of Nice, including fascinating anecdotes about the history of Savoy gastronomy by Annie Victor and illustrated photographs by Anthony Cottarela. There you will learn about the Savoy family and family, as well as modifications production processes and technical and commercial development of the brand. The visit ends with a film made at the seminars describing the current production processes.

With a foreword by Pavel Bokus and Michel Dejoe, the tale unfolds through the revelations of Maurice and Denis Meisel and interviews with company employees. The folding knife is one of the most common tools in America. Go to any store, sporting goods store, or outfitter in the country and you'll find several to choose from.

If, like me, we do not know how to use Coral, we draw with our hands for a long and tedious time. cut out of cardboard - fold - lay out

Friction has feature- a long tail protruding beyond the dimensions of the handle when folded, the principle of operation of such a knife is simple, in the knife frame there is a locking pin against which the tail of the blade rests in the unfolded state, and a special recess in the blade, in the folded state, so that the edge of the blade does not touch the insides of the frame . well then, to the point:

With folding knives readily available and legal to carry in more places than a handgun, it's no surprise that more people are choosing a folding knife as their primary self-defense tool or to supplement their usual concealed carry. But despite the wide range of folding knives available, not all blades are created equal. There are some outstanding records on the folder market, but also flooded with knives that are cheap, tricks, or just not good for defensive use.

Can it be opened with one hand?

If you're considering adding a folding knife to your self defense options, these are four things you need to look out for. You need a knife that can be opened with one hand. If you are fighting in the clinch, blocking a strike, holding a child, or otherwise unable to use both hands, you will only have one hand free to access and open the knife. And even if you're using a knife in a non-defensive environment, you may need to open it with one hand.

Blade making requires a separate master class. Axis and sliding washers from an unknown Chinese fold.


we cut them out with a grinder, transfer the centers of all the holes from the drawing to the blade, and drill them, pressing the blade to the die, we drill holes through the blade, first in one, and then through one into the other.

Does it lock with a secure locking mechanism?

The blade should lock open, without wobbling in any direction. You cannot accidentally close the knife. If you need to use your jackknife to protect yourself, adrenaline will pump you up. You and your attacker will both move and fight. When a knife is used, tremendous forces will be applied to the blade. If your locking mechanism can't handle this, you may end up with the blade closed or finger-locked.

Is a blade quality steel that will have a sharp edge and is designed for penetration. The purpose of a defensive folding knife is to cut and strike. Unless your blade is heavily reliant on hard use, it won't make the cuts you need when it counts. A deeper cut is more likely to disable an attacker, and a sharper blade cuts the deepest. It is also very important that the blade profile is conducive to penetration. When your attacker is wearing heavy, thick, or even just loose clothing, thrusting can be effective and cutting becomes less reliable.


we cut a groove between the locking holes, in my case with a grinder, ideally with a milling cutter


pretending to collect once


from thick stainless steel (5mm) we cut out a spacer in the back of the handle

Is it legal to practice in areas you frequent?

Knife laws vary widely from state to state and even city to city. In fact, if you're carrying a self-defense folding knife, it might be because the fixed blade is illegal to carry in your area. There are rules about length, type, and deployment mechanisms. Some of them may be vague or vague, and many of them seem unfair. Our respect for the law is what separates us from criminals, even if we admit that some laws are stupid or arbitrary and do not deserve such respect.


we carefully estimate the whole thing many times, spit, swear


we fix the spacer in the dies, drill, insert the pins, rivet, grind the tops of the heads flush


Make sure your knife is legal. There are many other desirable qualities in a knife. For example, you need a way to carry knives that are consistently geared towards quick access. You also want a grip that doesn't get slick when wet, whether it's sweat, blood, or water. While these things are important, they didn't make the list because they can often be dealt with after that fact. The clip is good, but straps and pocket holsters can solve the problem of carrying. The smooth handle can often be cut or dressed with a handle.

But if the knife doesn't open with one hand, it won't stay open when used hard, and won't stay sharp or penetrate a layer of clothing, this is a problem that can't be fixed. If you've ever bought a daily carry pocket knife, you'd know there are a myriad of options to choose from. Trying to understand the many types of knives and their subtle differences can be overwhelming. Of the many factors to consider when choosing something personal like a knife, its locking mechanism is one of the most important.

we make descents on the blade roughly, hardening - tempering, we remove the descents to zero + on a rhombus from above, rough assembly


grinding by hand, etching. The etching process is also missed, because it must be done separately by MK.


finally we tighten the axial screw with fixation on cyanoacrylate, we cut it roughly with a margin of lining, we drill recesses for the axle heads.

You need to know what type of lock, if any, you should have depending on your needs and preferences before investing in a quality knife.


Linear locks are one of the most common mechanisms found on folding knives. A characteristic component of this mechanism is the side spring bars, located on the same side as the sharp edge of the blade, "lining" the inside of the handle. When the knife is closed, the spring bar is held under tension.


we glue one die, through the frame we drill holes in the die for the stop pin, and the pins in the butt plate, similarly glue the second die and through the first we drill in the right places, glue the pins, and roughly grind.


When it is fully open, this tension slides down the shaft inward to make contact with the butt of the blade, holding it in place and not closing it. To disengage the liner detent, you must use your thumb to push the spring bar "down" so that it removes contact with the butt of the blade. This allows you to use your index finger to push the blade just enough to hold the bar so you get your thumb out of the way of the blade and then continue to close the knife safely.

Line locks are useful in that they allow the knife to have two true sides of the handle, as opposed to a frame. You can close the knife with one hand without a switch, perfect for when you need both hands at work. You will find liner locks on both entry and high knives. This is the type of lock that both beginners and enthusiasts like.

glue the locking pin, cut it off and already grind the lining closer to the desired shape


in intimate places where you can’t clean it with a grinder (for example), we clean it with a dremel.



If you will be using the knife for heavy tasks, you should be aware that liner locks are usually not as secure as other blocking systems. They are still quite strong, but since they are usually made from a thinner piece of metal, they are more prone to wear, such as a rigid frame.


Think of a frame lock as a larger version of a liner lock. They are very similar to liner locking mechanisms, except that the inner spring band moves into place, it's part of the handle itself. Frame lock knives tend to be stronger than liner locks as the piece of metal that slides into place is more substantial than the metal liner. Due to their similarity to liner locks, closing a frame lock knife is almost the same - push down on the spring bar so it no longer blocks with the butt of the blade, remove your thumb from the path, and then fold the knife closed.


you can mat all metal elements, although this is already superfluous


As you can see, at the beginning of the process, I had an axial screw from a Chinese folding, but during the manufacturing process I lost it, and I had to quickly make it out of anything. I did not remove this. It is better to make the etching process a separate MK, because there are many nuances that are important. In general, I missed a lot, there were not enough hands. The article is taken from the original source http://forum.zadi.ru/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=11774 Here are some pictures of the finished knife.

This type of locking system puts most of the metal against the blade, providing a strong lock for piercing, cutting, slicing and other heavy duty tasks. Lock-locks are seen in many mid to high range knives, typically made of titanium. In the example shown here, the stainless steel insert interacts with the blade as it requires longer wear than titanium and stabilizes the stem so you don't loosen it by pushing too far. Not only do they add a unique look to the knife, but they are also easily operated with one hand.





Manufacturing should begin directly with the blade. First of all, we mark the place for the axial hole. We drill it and, already guided by it, we make further marking of the blade. If you do the opposite and mark and cut the blade along the contour, and only then drill a hole, then during the drilling process, especially in hardened workpieces, the drill can lead to the side and all dimensions will “float away”.


It's easy to use on one side, but also important, it's fully reversible. Here's how it works: The lock consists of a spring-tensioned rod that slides back and forth along a track cut into knife handles. To close the knife, you pull the bar towards the back of the knife using the pins thumb, and fold the blade.


Usually these knives require two hands to open and close safely. They consist of a spring bar and a specially shaped blade. To open the knife, you pull on the blade to overcome spring pressure, snapping the blade into place. To close it, make sure your fingers are out of the way of the sharp edge and lean back. Friction folders are similar, except they don't have a spring bar. Instead, the knife blade is held in place simply by friction between the blade steel and the weights of the knife.

Transferring the contours of the blade to the workpiece, we begin to make the blade. We grind with the help of a grinder and emery along the contour. For the convenience of holding the blade in the process of removing the descents, the blade itself is not cut off from the workpiece yet and the heel of the blade is not formed.

Various tools can be used to remove slopes: grinders, emery, flat grinders, grinders. I do a rough turning of the slopes on emery and a fine one on a flat grinder.

One of the main advantages of these types of knives is their legality. They are also a pleasure to carry because they are simple and easy to use. But it's worth mentioning that these knives don't have a true lock, so they're not the best for heavy duty tasks.

By now, you should be more familiar with your options in order to better choose a knife worthy of your pocket. Do you have a favorite lock type to recommend? Words and Images by Ed Jelly and Bernard Capulong. If you've seen pictures of what people carry every day, you might be wondering, "Why do so many people carry a pocketknife?" The answer is different for everyone, but it all comes back to the idea that a handy pocket knife is an indispensable tool.

Next, we proceed to the manufacture of side dies.

Next, we drill a hole in the dies for the pin of the blade stopper, install the axis and stopper pin, install the blade and the second die. We move the blade to the open position and mark on the die the position of the heel of the blade, more precisely the place where the lock liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and proceed to cut it.

Having a knife can also potentially save your life in an emergency or survival situation if you spend time outdoors. However, knives can be limited depending on where you live and what your local laws are, so keep that in mind before deciding which pocket knife you can carry.

The best pocket knife for everyday carry

When choosing the best everyday carry pocket knife, there are many factors to consider: how big the knife is, how it opens, how it locks, how you will carry it, how durable it is, etc. Remember, you will need a knife that is comfortable, built, durable, safe to use, and legal to carry.

Having prepared the ribs in this way, we proceed to their installation on the dies. The methods are different: soldering, riveting, spot welding, etc. The most accessible are soldering and riveting.

For soldering, you will need a soldering iron, soldering acid, solder and a heat source. As a soldering iron, it is best to use a massive piece of copper, which is heated in a burner flame. Soldering acid is hydrochloric acid etched with zinc. POS-60, POS-90 are suitable as solder. Before soldering, it is necessary to clean and tin the soldering points. It is cleaned with sandpaper, a file. After stripping, we coat the soldering points with acid, take, on a well-heated soldering iron, a piece of solder and tin the surface. In the process of tinning, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps left and that the entire surface is covered with an even layer of solder. High-quality tinning and soldering are possible only with good heating of the parts.

After tinning, rinse the parts well in water with soda, removing acid residues. Next, we clamp the tinned parts in a vise and begin to warm up with a burner from different sides. To reduce heat loss, it is necessary to lay a thermally insulating material under the vise jaws; fragments of ceramic tiles are well suited. As it warms up, we tighten the vise until droplets of solder come out between the parts, after which the heating can be stopped.

Soldering the right tack has some peculiarities: first, we solder the axis of the knife into the die, and then solder the trap, while instead of one of the ceramic tiles we use a piece of tube larger than the axis of diameter.





Want to make your own switchblade? Then take a look at this guide. Such a knife will be very useful in your pocket, especially if you go hiking or just walking in nature. Who knows who you will meet along the way? Also, with a knife, you can always cut something, cut it, tuck it in, or even unscrew some screws if necessary. In this tutorial, we will look at how to make just such a knife.

The author used N690 steel as the material for the manufacture of the blade. It is well suited for the manufacture of knives, it is easily hardened and knives from it perfectly keep sharpening. The knife is not difficult to assemble, but the author uses a belt grinder, which greatly simplifies this process.

Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- ;
- spring;
- bolt;
- aluminum foliage for the manufacture of handles;
- textolite or something similar (used for finishing internal parts pens);
- epoxy adhesive;
- pins (nails will do);
- screws.

List of tools:
- ;
- vice;
- drilling machine;
- ;
- Bulgarian;
- files;
- marker;
- "dremel" with grinding and polishing nozzles;
- wrenches, pliers, etc.

Knife making process:

Step one. Let's start with blade making
First of all, you need to design the blade for the knife. There is nothing complicated about this, the blade must have two grooves, thanks to which the blade will be held in the closed state, as well as in the open state. First, draw the desired profile on paper, and then cut it out.


We apply the finished template to the steel and circle it with a marker. Steel for the blade must have a large number of carbon, otherwise you will not be able to harden it. Now you can start cutting the blade. To do this, we clamp the workpiece in a vice and work as a grinder, and if there is band-saw, then it is all done much faster.
















Now we process the blade on a belt grinder, bring the profile to the ideal.
At the end, you will need to carve grooves in the blade, this design provides for two pieces. First, we cut them out with a grinder, and then we refine them with a flat file.

Do not forget to also drill a hole in the blade into which the axle will be installed.

Step two. We make a locking lever
The locking lever must also be made of durable steel, since the holding hook may wear out during prolonged use. The lever locks the blade in two positions, first closed and then open.

We apply the profile to the metal and cut it out, modify it with files and a hand saw. Finally, drill a hole for the axle.














Step three. Final polishing of the blade
Bevels need to be formed on the blade, this event is very important. You can quickly and efficiently do this on a tape grinding machine. Main parameter here is symmetry. Do not sharpen the knife too much at this stage, as the blade can lead when hardened, and thin metal can overheat greatly.











Step four. We make a pen
The author makes the handle from sheet aluminum, gluing two more layers to the inside. One of the layers is textolite, and the second, outer, is probably plastic or something similar. Thanks to this layer, friction is reduced and the knife opens perfectly.























Using the template, cut out two parts of the handle, you will also need to cut out two similar parts from the textolite. Glue the pieces together using epoxy glue. When the parts are ready, glue them with epoxy to the final layer. When the glue dries, cut them out.

Finally, sand the parts on a belt sander.

Step five. Final preparation of all parts
In the handle you need to drill holes and cut the threads, it will be assembled on the screws. You also need to bend the holding lever at a certain angle, for this the author heats it red-hot with a burner, and then bends it.




Let's install the spring. Thanks to it, the blade will automatically extend from the handle. The spring is mounted on the same axis as the blade is held. Under it in the textolite you need to cut out a seat. First, the author cuts it out by drilling a series of holes, and then reams it with a drilling machine and a special nozzle. To attach the spring, you need to drill two holes. We drill one in the handle, and the other in the blade.


















All that remains for you to do is to install the “handle” with which you will activate the knife. To do this, we weld a bolt to the lever, and then cut off the extra parts. Under the "handle" in the handle, you need to make a groove with a round file.










The handle also has another spring that supports the lever. For this spring, you will need to grind and install the stop. We fix the stop using pins. Ordinary nails can act as pins.

Step six. Steel hardening
We start hardening, thanks to this the knife will not be dull for a long time. For N690 steel, the quenching temperature is 1071 degrees Celsius. Visually, this temperature is determined by the yellow glow. You can also determine the desired temperature with a magnet, if it is not attracted to hot steel, then it is heated to the desired temperature. Cool the blade in mineral or vegetable oil. As for the lever, it is also highly desirable to harden it. The author heats the metal using a burner and a special stove.






An integral part of hardening is metal tempering; without this procedure, the metal will be very brittle. To make a vacation, you need a regular household oven. We heat it up to a temperature of 200-300 degrees Celsius and heat the blade for an hour. Then turn off the oven and let it cool down. The higher the tempering temperature, the stronger you will temper the metal.
Finally, check the steel with a file, if it does not leave scratches on it, then the hardening was a success.

Today, buying a folding knife is not at all difficult, since such a product is not only presented in a huge assortment, it is also sold in many retail stores, as well as on Internet sites. But, despite this, every day the number of people who want to make handmade folding knife. This is due to the fact that homemade folding knives are unique and a person can customize it as much as possible to suit their preferences. Moreover, in the process of self-manufacturing a knife, a person can use any materials, which will make the device reliable and durable.

Before you start making your own folding knife, you need to clearly define the following indicators:

  • what will be the shape of the future knife;
  • what material will be used for its manufacture;
  • what design will the future knife have;
  • what will be the design of the knife.

DIY folding knives can be made of any material and have any shape, the main thing is to adhere to the established standards in the manufacture. When choosing materials for a knife, it is necessary to give preference to the most durable and strong material. For the blade, stainless steel with high hardness or Damascus steel is suitable. Of course, most people prefer stainless steel, because it is easier to make a knife out of it and, unlike Damascus steel, it is resistant to corrosion.

In addition to materials, for the manufacture of a knife, it is necessary to prepare tools that may be required in the process of performing the work. It should be noted that during the manufacture simple option folding knife you will need the simplest tools at hand. Special attention should be paid to the choice of material for the handle, since it must be not only reliable and durable, but also convenient to use. That is, it is necessary to think over the shape of the handle correctly so that it is securely fixed in the hand and does not slip out. Having decided on the most convenient form of the handle, you need to choose the material from which it will be most convenient to perform it.

Making a folding knife can be done using handle materials such as hard wood, impact-resistant plastic or metal. And, of course, planning independent production knife, you need to think about the mechanism of its folding. Moreover, the mechanisms of the knife must be treated with extreme caution and everything must be thought out for the smallest details, since an incorrectly executed mechanism can cause injury during the use of the knife. Before starting work on the manufacture of a folding knife, you need to make sure that all necessary materials prepared.

folding knife mockup

So, if a person is interested in a question, how to assemble a folding knife, then it is possible to do this even without special skills. The main thing in this process is to take into account all the established parameters and adhere to all the rules for performing such a process. The first thing to do, starting with the manufacture of a knife, is to sketch the future fixture on paper. You can also use special graphic editors. by the most the best options for cutting a template for the future blade of a knife, cardboard is used, since it is more durable than paper. Moreover, all the components of the future knife can be cut out of cardboard, and then fasten the cardboard blade and the handle with a screw and nut, for this you need to cut a hole in the cardboard for the axis. This approach will help to understand how proportional the elements of the knife are, and how the manufactured fixture will close.

In addition, the execution of a cardboard model of the knife will help to correctly fit the shape of the heel of the blade, and this part, as you know, is extremely important for comfortable and practical use of the knife. You can find out how the supporting part of the heel should look like by viewing folding knife do it yourself video. The video will help make sure that the heel of the blade is really made correctly and has the required bevel angle, an angle of 7-9 0 is considered optimal. After that, it is necessary to sketch a linear knife lock, as you know, it is based on three points that form a triangle. Each point of the linear lock has its own purpose:

  • to install the pivot pin;
  • for mounting a corkscrew pin;
  • the contact zone of the supporting planes of the heel of the blade and the pressure plate, that is, the stopper.

It is worth noting that it is the lateral pressure force of the stopper that fixes the blade in the closed position; there are no other elements that perform such a function in this knife design. That is why it is extremely important to mount a small steel ball from the bearing into the stopper, it will become an additional fixator for the closed blade and, accordingly, will secure the use of the knife. It is very important to choose the correct location of the ball retainer, since the functioning of the entire knife lock depends on it.

Having marked the location of the ball retainer on the cardboard mock-up of the blade and the locking spring, you need to make sure that it will fit tightly there and will not interfere with the folding of the knife. After that, it is necessary to decide on the fasteners that will tighten the dies together. It is not recommended to use fasteners with large heads and place them too close to the edge of the handle. This is due to the fact that subsequently it may be necessary to install a spacer or tubular racks between the mounts.

How to make a folding knife with your own hands

After the cardboard layout of the future knife is ready and all its elements meet the standards, you can begin to manufacture the device itself. On the this stage material for the future knife and tools that may be useful in the process of its manufacture should already be prepared. As already mentioned, stainless steel is considered the best material for making a knife blade, since it will not rust even if moisture gets inside the fold.

For drilling holes in hardened steel, it is best to use ceramic or glass drills. It is very important to drill at low speeds, while applying little effort. If you approach the process of drilling holes in the workpiece irresponsibly, then you can simply erase the drills without achieving the desired result. In order to prevent the steel from sinking, it is necessary to constantly monitor the level of its heating and often cool the part.

As for the dies, it is better to use titanium for them, since, even with a small thickness, this material has high strength indicators. In addition, titanium is lightweight and does not corrode, which is also important for a folding knife. When processing titanium and giving it the desired shape, it is also recommended to work at low speed grinders, you can even use a hand saw for metal.

In order to make a folding knife, the next thing to do is cut out the contours of the corkscrew spring, which will be located at the bottom of the die. In the intended place of the end of the die, it is necessary to drill holes with diameters of not more than 2.5 millimeters, there should be 3-4 such holes. After making holes, they need to be connected and a hacksaw blade should be brought there. The next step will be sawing the stopper line, but when performing this procedure, it is necessary to leave a small margin, which is removed during the process of setting up and checking the finished knife.

As for the lower plate, it often has the same dimensions as the upper one, but there is one difference: in the lower plate, it is necessary to make a special recess, under the hole for opening the knife. Another difference between the top and bottom plates is the diameter of the screw hole. In the lower die, such holes must be made for the screw thread, while the diameters of the holes in the upper die must have the screw diameter. After all the details have been cut out and all the holes have been drilled, it is necessary to make or pick up two small washers. Washers made of bronze or fluoroplast are considered the most optimal. Such washers will act as a bearing, and are attached to the axis of rotation of the knife.

The next step in the manufacture of the knife will be its direct assembly. You need to do this in turn:

  • insert the axle into the lower die;
  • put a locking pin;
  • install the washer;
  • put the blade and assemble the knife together.

If any inaccuracies arose during the assembly process, but they need to be eliminated, for example, if the parts of the knife do not match, then they need to be adjusted in place. After the knife is assembled, it is necessary to install the corkscrew ball. To do this, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe corkscrew spring, it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 0.1-0.2 mm, that is, it must be smaller than its ball. The average size of a bearing ball is 1.5-2 mm. The ball is pressed into the locking plate using a vise, while it should protrude to the surface by about half a millimeter.

After the ball is installed, it is necessary to determine the place of its contact with the wedge, for this it is enough to close and open the knife several times. After that, a trace will remain on the knife blade, stepping back from the edge of the trace 0.3 millimeters, it is necessary to make a small hole, into which the ball will enter when the knife is closed. In order to set and test the functionality of the knife lock, it is initially recommended to assemble the fixture without the top die. If everything works properly, you can fully assemble the knife and check its operation already in the folded state.

That's all the knife is ready. As it becomes clear to do do-it-yourself folding automatic knife it may take a little time and patience.

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